Hi David , I'm glad you found it useful. Thank you for the kind words .. I do have another video on "Constant lighting for Passenger Cars" . This video shows you how to use the 3 different methods with more detail and the associated circuit diagrams . You might find it useful . Regards, Anthony .
Thank you Gene , Check out this video , which will explain how to use CL2N3's , resisitors and LM334's even better .. ua-cam.com/video/7eVydcg1Gc8/v-deo.html Regards, - Anthony -
Hi Eric , Thank you for the Kind words , very much appreciated . If you have any questions by all means fire away . I am planning on another video on how to light passenger cars with LED's ( i.e they have to work on DC or DCC and in both directions , and maintain a constant brightness) .. Stay tuned . Regards, - Anthony -
Hi Gene , Thank you for the comments . Sorry for the delay in response . No matter what voltage you supply the CL2N3 ( Not exceeding 90v ) , a CL2N3 will give you a constant 20ma of current on the output pin. so you can run as many LED's in Series driven by a single Cl2N3, providing the input voltage going into the CL2N3 is sufficient enough to drive those LED's in series. I have explained this well in the following video which I posted : ua-cam.com/video/7eVydcg1Gc8/v-deo.html , IF you look at this video and go over to the 28 minute mark , you will start to see me explaining how to connect multiple LED's to a single CL2N3 LEd driver . Take a look at the video and then let me know if you have any further questions and I will be more than happy to help you out . Regards, - Anthony -
Hi Jacob , absolutely you can add a Cap . However before you do , you need to add a Bridge rectifier ahead of it , to ensure that the Electrolytic Capacitor received the correct polarity , when if the polarity on the tracks is reversed or you are running DCC ( if you are installing this in a locomotive or passenger car ) . I have shown detail drawings in the newer video which I posted on adding constant lighting for passenger cars .. please check that out , and let me know if you have any further questions .. I will be glad to assist . and for a Capacitor you may have to use a 2200uF Cap or higher if you want to have the LEd's stay on for longer without being impacted by flickering .. Contact me if you need help ( anthonyshobbycorner@gmail.com) .
Hi Ric, LM334's are very common , you can even get them from Ebay . However , I typically get them from Mouser Electronics. the CL2N3's are not as common . I also get them from Mouser Electronics. The LM334's might be the best option for you , as all you need is an LM334 and a resistor , and they are freely available . Where do you Live ? If u live in North America, then Mouser or Digikey are 2 reliable online distributors. BTW , I just subscribed to you channel . Regards, Anthony .
@@anthonyshobbycorner Anthony I use led strips with a 12v resistor built in for my passenger cars. so with this part you dont really need a capacitor then to keep them from flickering that will save some space. BTW I'm in N America
Anthony, your explanations about circuitry and options for using LEDs on rollingstock are just wonderful. I have watched many videos on how to add lights, but yours is the most comprehensive and thought out. I also appreciate that you have done your homework and are able to back up your explanations with “real science”. Thank you!
Hi , Thank you for the kind words - Much appreciated. I am glad people are finding these videos useful , as it definitely motivates me to continue to make them. Thank you for taking the time to write your comments. If you have any questions , please don't hesitate to drop me an email ( anthonyshobbycorner@gmail.com). Regards, - Anthony -
Hi Norm you are correct . Most of the DC locomotives I have , pretty much fall into the "vintage" category . Most of them are from the 60's , 70's and a few from the 80's . So I like to preserve them in original state as much as possible and only change the lighting if needed. For my DCC loco's , of course there is no issue as the Decoders provision lighting requirements appropriately . I have many Fleischmann , Roco , Marklin Hamo , Rivarossi loco's ( vintage ) which I truly enjoy running on the layout with all the associated sounds of noisy motors etc .. those are the ones that I convert to LED lighting etc .. There is something about the vintage loco's which attract me to them .. Cheers - Anthony ..
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Excellent and very useful presentation! Thanks 👍
Hi David , I'm glad you found it useful. Thank you for the kind words ..
I do have another video on "Constant lighting for Passenger Cars" . This video shows you how to use the 3 different methods with more detail and the associated circuit diagrams . You might find it useful .
Regards,
Anthony .
This is a great video and makes the subject very easy to understand. Thank you.
Thank you Gene , Check out this video , which will explain how to use CL2N3's , resisitors and LM334's even better .. ua-cam.com/video/7eVydcg1Gc8/v-deo.html
Regards, - Anthony -
Anthony, I’ve found this video extremely helpful. Your insight on these lighting methods was superb. I appreciate the thorough explanation!
Hi Eric , Thank you for the Kind words , very much appreciated . If you have any questions by all means fire away . I am planning on another video on how to light passenger cars with LED's ( i.e they have to work on DC or DCC and in both directions , and maintain a constant brightness) .. Stay tuned . Regards, - Anthony -
When using the CL2N3, what would you suggest as the limit of number of 3mm LEDs to drive off one CL2N3?
Hi Gene , Thank you for the comments . Sorry for the delay in response . No matter what voltage you supply the CL2N3 ( Not exceeding 90v ) , a CL2N3 will give you a constant 20ma of current on the output pin. so you can run as many LED's in Series driven by a single Cl2N3, providing the input voltage going into the CL2N3 is sufficient enough to drive those LED's in series. I have explained this well in the following video which I posted : ua-cam.com/video/7eVydcg1Gc8/v-deo.html ,
IF you look at this video and go over to the 28 minute mark , you will start to see me explaining how to connect multiple LED's to a single CL2N3 LEd driver . Take a look at the video and then let me know if you have any further questions and I will be more than happy to help you out . Regards, - Anthony -
Is there a way to combine any or all of these methods with a capacitor in order to eliminate flickering?
Hi Jacob , absolutely you can add a Cap . However before you do , you need to add a Bridge rectifier ahead of it , to ensure that the Electrolytic Capacitor received the correct polarity , when if the polarity on the tracks is reversed or you are running DCC ( if you are installing this in a locomotive or passenger car ) .
I have shown detail drawings in the newer video which I posted on adding constant lighting for passenger cars .. please check that out , and let me know if you have any further questions .. I will be glad to assist . and for a Capacitor you may have to use a 2200uF Cap or higher if you want to have the LEd's stay on for longer without being impacted by flickering .. Contact me if you need help ( anthonyshobbycorner@gmail.com) .
where have you bought the parts from the LMM334 and th3 cl2n3
Hi Ric, LM334's are very common , you can even get them from Ebay . However , I typically get them from Mouser Electronics. the CL2N3's are not as common . I also get them from Mouser Electronics. The LM334's might be the best option for you , as all you need is an LM334 and a resistor , and they are freely available .
Where do you Live ? If u live in North America, then Mouser or Digikey are 2 reliable online distributors.
BTW , I just subscribed to you channel .
Regards, Anthony .
@@anthonyshobbycorner Anthony I use led strips with a 12v resistor built in for my passenger cars. so with this part you dont really need a capacitor then to keep them from flickering that will save some space. BTW I'm in N America
Anthony, your explanations about circuitry and options for using LEDs on rollingstock are just wonderful. I have watched many videos on how to add lights, but yours is the most comprehensive and thought out. I also appreciate that you have done your homework and are able to back up your explanations with “real science”. Thank you!
Hi , Thank you for the kind words - Much appreciated. I am glad people are finding these videos useful , as it definitely motivates me to continue to make them. Thank you for taking the time to write your comments.
If you have any questions , please don't hesitate to drop me an email ( anthonyshobbycorner@gmail.com). Regards, - Anthony -
I guess you have not added decoders to a older locomotive converting from DC to DCC and this type circuit is required to convert to LED lighting.
Hi Norm you are correct . Most of the DC locomotives I have , pretty much fall into the "vintage" category . Most of them are from the 60's , 70's and a few from the 80's . So I like to preserve them in original state as much as possible and only change the lighting if needed.
For my DCC loco's , of course there is no issue as the Decoders provision lighting requirements appropriately .
I have many Fleischmann , Roco , Marklin Hamo , Rivarossi loco's ( vintage ) which I truly enjoy running on the layout with all the associated sounds of noisy motors etc .. those are the ones that I convert to LED lighting etc .. There is something about the vintage loco's which attract me to them ..
Cheers - Anthony ..