I'm amazed you haven't been nicked for casing a joint or something, driving the same route each time. We're all rooting for you. Keep up the logical, methodical approach, you deserve to get there fella.
Always look forward to your vids Martin, you seem to be the only guy on youtube who shows the hurdles they encounter and how to troubleshoot them. invaluable stuff 👍🏻
Great update again. I think ppl missing the point of your vids ( a bit like me at first) Showing your fails so much more valuable to ppl doing work on own cars. You show all the steps you follow and logic behide it. Ok it didn't work but that's the prosess and might be really helpful to a person with the fault. I think anyone who has worked on cars will know a misfire and bogging down can be 100 different things. You are just using logic to find the fault and that's all anyone could do. Still think you need your own tv chanal. Vids are priceless.👍👍👍
That's right Dave, I try and show real world stuff and the workings of why I have done what I have done. I'm sure, showing the inside of the relay will help others to understand what is a mystery box that costs over £30.00 and see it's just one set of contacts and a coil. Cheers Martin
retrorestore Yes showing the relay stuff was great. Keep up the vids. I was talking to a guy today about your vids. He said the same as me BRILLIANT! !! really good. So many ppl doing vids on cars turning cams off at key points or working on parts you can tell are new. Not seen anyone showing real world stuff from start to finish.
witam. miałem ten sam problem ale pompy jeszcze nie sprawdzałem. super filmik. Hello. I had the same problem but I haven't checked the pump yet. great movie.
I agree, I think it's something to do with open and closed loop sensor readings Pete. So much conflicting info here I've got to sort through it all. Cheers Martin
great video Martin this series of videos are getting more and more exciting as draw closer to the conclusion of the problem and i look forward to the next video. thumbs up from me
Let's hope this one is an easy fix Martin something small and cheap that when we will discover we will all kick are selves for not finding or thinking of.Great video Martin and interesting to see inside that relay never think of all that inside the engine bay
hi martin i once owned a 1983 vw sciròcco and it was also driving as if it was a fuel problem no mechanic could identify the cause until i spoke to vw expert and he removed the back seat opened the fuel sender unit put in a magnet into the fuel tank problem solved no more problems then six weeks later car was written off lol
Martin have you checked the map sensor? As it only plays up under boost 🤔 sometimes theses codes are generic codes and can mean other things🤔or possibly a temperature sensor as that also controls the fuelling for cold starts? You can diagnose that by simply unplugging it when it's warm,, I hate faults like this myself and love it when you can resolve them,
Martin considering the fault occurs when it heats up, you could also check the cylinder head temp sensor which sits in a blind hole behind the camshaft sprocket another common fault on a 2.0 tddi engine, this replaces a normal temp/coolant sensor if it's iffy the edu thinks the engine is still cold and there for gives it more fuel..................the variables are endless very hard to help without seeing it in the flesh
Hi Martin the smoke might be due to fuel starvation as the injectors can't create a proper mist and spits droplets in witch don't burn propley like worn injectors.
When I replaced the lift pump on mine I could it running when I turned ignition on never heard the old one.Then again the old one was a bosch the new was cheaper one from euro car parts £60 Inc vat and 30% off about 6 weeks ago car runs a lot smoother and idles better runs well for 167000 miles. 1 bolt 2 push on pipes 2 push on leads 20 mins max to change.
hi mate , i dont tent to work on tdsis like petrol cars but just a thought have you cheked the fuel pump in the tank ?on petrol cars they some times have a filter on the fuel pump , im thinking it could be nearly completly clogged , and allowing enough fuel through to run but it cant suck enough up to keep up with the demand of open throttle ? i may be wrong but i guess its worth a try hope to see more videos
Oyy what a nightmare. Great troubleshooting Martin. I would have put a meter on the relay contacts to show before and after the contact cleaning. Your car acts just like my Taurus did with the crank position sensor out of whack. Runs normal, then a hickup, then all the bumping like a bucking Bronco. I still think that will be the problem. Fuel pumps just go bad and nothing starts or runs. Waiting anxiously for the next vid. Have some Ovaltine.
Hi Martin, get someone to go out with you and have forscan running with just FRP and see if it drops when it's kangarooing, when the car is cold the fuel re-circulates from the fuel filter to HP pump, when it reaches a certain temp it then starts getting sent back down the return line to fuel tank, this might be when your problems start, and you can look at fuel temp (FTS) in forscan, and CHT Cylider head temp.I would also be looking at FRP to see if your lift pump cant supply your HP pump with enough fuel when you're having problems.
It's a good point. I am uploading a new vid now. The lift pump is working when the car is cranked as I can hear it with a screwdriver on it and putting it to my ear.
forgot to mention have something to hand to plug the hose when you remove it from pump I tried hose clamp but because the pipe is nylon it wouldn't pinch it propley to stop the flow.
Turning into a great series Martin, we used to call it 'kangaroo fuel' when I was a kid driving old mini's and ford consul 375's, and zodiacs and such... will be fascinated to see what it really is, but would appear to be something breaking down under temperature. Keep up the great vids. Any plans for veggie vids this year? What happened to the poly tunnel and the pond rehab? Best....
I have mk3 tdci 130, sore on mpg no codes. Changed oil fuel air filters. New crank pulley belt tensioner, water pump thermostat pipes, alternator. New fuel pressure valve on back of pump. It starts drives accelerates as it should just very heavy on fuel, no smell on fuel, engine noisy
great video buddy i have an issue with my Citreon C3 and I'm walking the same path as you narrowing the possible cause. alternator and battery are in good condition so looking for clues to narrow things down. As with your issue it's a case of illimination
Hi Martin, interesting video. When the car started to smoke, was the smoke black or white? If it's black this could indicate overfuelling. This can be caused by sticking vanes on the VNTurbo causing airflow problems. When the vanes stick, it can cause the air mass meter to misbehave and throw up a code which can make it appear the mass sensor is the problem and not the VNT. Since fuelling is related to air mass meter, a chain of faults occurs that will generate all sorts of fault codes. I was once asked to deal with a Volkswagen Sharan TD which had similar symptoms as your Mondeo. At first glance it looked like a knackered mass meter but it was sticking vanes on the turbo. I know its a long shot but might be worth having a look as sticking VNT is a very common problem across all makes of vehicle that use VNT especially with electronic boost control as opposed to the traditional 'wastegate control'.
hello to my friend i am from bosna I have a problem with the burning Mondeo 2004 2.0 Tddi 66kw The first start is good When the engine warms up after 1-2 hours it will not ignite 1 time, and when it is start from the first time, the torque meter remains on the 500R and the torch light starts to flash. While running 2 times, it's ideal without any mistakes. And so every time If you knew what the problem was, I'd be very grateful to you
Have you checked out the South Main Auto channel? This type of investigation would be right up his street. You mentioned the lift pump in a previous vid and everything is pointing towards that.
Eric O's a professional mechanic and unlike some other so-called "mechanics" he doesn't "play parts" darts on the strength of the fault codes. Martin said in the vid that if he'd taken it to Ford they would've done this and replaced the expensive fuel pump. I've not watched any of the Schrodinger Box vids yet so I can't really comment. Keep on with it Martin and you WILL get to the bottom of this problem.
Hi Martin, get yourself the leakoff injector clips from the scrappy, and make yourself a leakoff test kit, and do the test when the car is upto temp. Loads of vids on youtube, you want all 4 bottles to be even, any high leakoff will be the bad injector.With forscan what is the fuel pressure doing when its kangarooing?, does it drop the same as the kangarooing?.
I didn't know you could get the kits so cheap now, when I was looking a year ago the cheapest way was to cut up some old leak off pipes for the right connectors !.
hi martin, .....you will have to try and recreate the fault on your runway and not on a test run. let the car get up to normal temp, then plug in the F super, then put it to oscilloscope. choose injectors then watch what they do when hopefully the fault reoccurs, see if there is an unusual pattern with one of them, if you are on a test run set it to freeze frame to record the fault then you can play it back. the 1564 code is requesting lower fuelling because its either over fuelling or the solenoid which meters the fuel and the timing of it is telling the ecu there is not enuff fuel going in to the pump and therefore it adds fuel, same as fuel trim does on a petrol car, the question is why ??? this could also be caused by vacuum leak at the inlet manifold.which could explain the temp and giving the fast pedal some stick when it causes the hesitation the cables that go to the fuel pump go over the starter motor need checked thoroughly they may look fine but are notorious for being dodgy. if this was my transit I would be checking in this order. .......fuel filter, ( always use genuine ford the others are crap and prone to letting in air), fuel filter housing, fuel pump relay, vacuum leak at inlet, injector seals, wiring at the fuel injection pump. then put on the f super and check all the tests it will let you do on the oscilloscope...............heres a bit of an urban myth cleared up them bosch fuel pumps don't break down its the little box on top of it with the circuit board that goes kaput...............once again martin if you can recreate that fault on the runway where you can visually check the engine and study the f super then your halfway home to a solution...............good luck and let us see the f super results on camera cheers willie
Cheers Willie, I'll be plugging the F Super in again and hopefully researching the fuelling in the next video. and I've read about the cables as well. That relay was a bit of a mystery and that is why I opened it up as so many people just change it without actually knowing how it works. I hope I've demystified that one. I'll need to do a bit more research on the PID's to watch when testing as well. Cheers Martin
hi can you help me please with these 3 codes??? P0409 -Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit P1664 - Injection Pump Control ModuleMalfunction P1564 -injection Pump Control Module Requesting Reduced Fueling i got these code after repairing the injection pump.the simptoms are that i have a lot of losing power.cant run more than 120 km.h.i will apreciate any advice. Ford mondeo mk3.2001.tddi 2.0
My TDCi 96 kw Mondeo sometimes wont start from first try, when idle it is very rough sound and when I push throttle hard limp mode goes on. Could it be same thing as here?
@@retrorestore Its a high pressure pump, which gonna cost me a lot to repair. Well I guess that there is nothing more expensive than a cheap turbo diesel. Thank you for your answer!
Hi, thanks for replying. Shame you live so far I live in Skelmersdale in the North West , I'd like to think we could help each other out if we lived nearer, I have spent over £10,000 in repairs on 4 cars in around 5 years, current car has a clunk when bring clutch up but goes into each gear perfectly, also has suspected head gasket, been losing water for over 15 months but only needs topping up once a month, chemical test revealed bad head gasket. I'd have had head gasket replaced if it were not for the clunk noise and a few different other probems I am having with it, I think I will just use it as it still drives great atm, no power loss, no smoke , no oil/water mixing, it runs fine just have to top op water each month or so. It's so frustrating/sad to spend so much time/money into a car for it to fall apart and be unecomnical to repair, it's a 2006 mk2 ford focus spirt 1.8 tdci with 158,000 on clock, I could have it all repaired but I think I will continue saving for new car although I di like these cars It's already had over £2,000 spent on it in 2 years, I do some repairs myself and am continuing to learn, and your videos are helping me also, I'm not a mechanic but I have replaced a fair bit in the past 6 months, mainly brakes and suspensions, glow plugs, radiator, sensors *cylinder head sensor) , I really appreciate your videos and thanks for replying, keep up the good work and good luck !
Wow, you've spent a lot Mark, The clunk sounds to me like driveshafts when taking up the drive but without seeing it, I can't be 100% sure. Glad you are enjoying the vids as well bud. All the best Martin
Can u help me i have this problem if my car stay couple days i cant start him i need to pull him whit another car and the he start after that he start from first every time when i start him but again i put him to stay 2 or more days and i cant start him
Glad your're persevering...It's not an old car..2001. Only a stroppy teenager! Just the designers got too clever for our own good. My instinct is some kind of G-sensor. Your problem occurs after fast turns. That's got be an electronic nightmare!
Can i get help i have mondeo mk3 55 plate 2l tdci actuator arm stopped moving flashing glow plug light loss of turbo i can coast n switch off ignition n back on tben boosys n cuts off help help help anybpdy ov cleaned egr valve and yoused whole tin of wynns turbo cleaner into air intake on turbo helo help help
With the Fordscan you have done virtually the same as most garages (including main dealers). As you say there are loads of instances of the fuel pump being changed, and not fixing the problem. There are thousands and thousands of similar scenarios covering most makes and models of cars. This ultimately brings you to the conclusion that the diagnostic set up of most cars is pants! Main stealers will put it straight on their diagnostic, at one heck of a charge. Now that might be worth it if they could tell what the EXACT fault is (guaranteed). But guess what folks, that won't gonna happen in a lifetime!!!! Rant over.
100% agree Stephen, that's why i'm doing this myself. I read that one dealer charged £300 just for their diagnostic time without actually correcting the fault or changing any parts.
Makes me want to go out and buy a Ford Anglia - I'd never get a fault I couldn't solve! Keep at it Martin - you're getting closer. I can feel it!!
Haha, same here John, all this techie stuff lol
I'm amazed you haven't been nicked for casing a joint or something, driving the same route each time. We're all rooting for you. Keep up the logical, methodical approach, you deserve to get there fella.
Haha,I think the car is on autopilot now Stew lol.
Always look forward to your vids Martin, you seem to be the only guy on youtube who shows the hurdles they encounter and how to troubleshoot them. invaluable stuff 👍🏻
I always try to show what can happen because it's pointless showing just the easy bits. Cheers bud.
Great update again. I think ppl missing the point of your vids ( a bit like me at first) Showing your fails so much more valuable to ppl doing work on own cars. You show all the steps you follow and logic behide it. Ok it didn't work but that's the prosess and might be really helpful to a person with the fault. I think anyone who has worked on cars will know a misfire and bogging down can be 100 different things. You are just using logic to find the fault and that's all anyone could do. Still think you need your own tv chanal. Vids are priceless.👍👍👍
The process of elimination.
That's right Dave, I try and show real world stuff and the workings of why I have done what I have done. I'm sure, showing the inside of the relay will help others to understand what is a mystery box that costs over £30.00 and see it's just one set of contacts and a coil.
Cheers
Martin
retrorestore Yes showing the relay stuff was great. Keep up the vids. I was talking to a guy today about your vids. He said the same as me BRILLIANT! !! really good. So many ppl doing vids on cars turning cams off at key points or working on parts you can tell are new. Not seen anyone showing real world stuff from start to finish.
I agree, he's great
very helpful videos, thank you for spending that extra time for recording it and uploading it, I know its a painful job
witam. miałem ten sam problem ale pompy jeszcze nie sprawdzałem. super filmik. Hello. I had the same problem but I haven't checked the pump yet. great movie.
Great information Martin . And good logic .As someone has said it's odd the problems start when the motor is warmed up.
Cheers Pete.
I agree, I think it's something to do with open and closed loop sensor readings Pete. So much conflicting info here I've got to sort through it all.
Cheers
Martin
Good luck with it Martin . You on the mend now . Iam dam full of the cold/virus crap .
Happy days .
Great video Martin.Time to check out the wiring on that lift pump Martin.look forward to the next installment to see what happens next.
Cheers, Jeff.
Yes, I'm thinking that's my next check Jeff
great video Martin this series of videos are getting more and more exciting as draw closer to the conclusion of the problem and i look forward to the next video. thumbs up from me
This problem is deffo giving me something to film Dave lol.
All the best Martin love the vids
Let's hope this one is an easy fix Martin something small and cheap that when we will discover we will all kick are selves for not finding or thinking of.Great video Martin and interesting to see inside that relay never think of all that inside the engine bay
Thanks bud, That's why I took the relay apart to allow others to see what is actually inside. Plenty still do do though.
Cheers
Martin
You are doing great job, Martin.
Thanks bud, i'll get there
hi martin i once owned a 1983 vw sciròcco and it was also driving as if it was a fuel problem no mechanic could identify the cause until i spoke to vw expert and he removed the back seat opened the fuel sender unit put in a magnet into the fuel tank problem solved no more problems then six weeks later car was written off lol
Amazing, wonder what he knew lol
Martin have you checked the map sensor? As it only plays up under boost 🤔 sometimes theses codes are generic codes and can mean other things🤔or possibly a temperature sensor as that also controls the fuelling for cold starts? You can diagnose that by simply unplugging it when it's warm,, I hate faults like this myself and love it when you can resolve them,
Thanks bud, As you can imagine, it's all new to me so i'm learning all the time, thanks for the info.
Cheers
Martin
Mine was a fuel injector regulator on top of motor. A piece of plastic with a wire held by a single bolt.
Martin considering the fault occurs when it heats up, you could also check the cylinder head temp sensor which sits in a blind hole behind the camshaft sprocket another common fault on a 2.0 tddi engine, this replaces a normal temp/coolant sensor if it's iffy the edu thinks the engine is still cold and there for gives it more fuel..................the variables are endless very hard to help without seeing it in the flesh
Cheers Willie.
Just went on UA-cam. Good timing first. Will watch all of it.
Hi Martin the smoke might be due to fuel starvation as the injectors can't create a proper mist and spits droplets in witch don't burn propley like worn injectors.
I'll be checking the lift pump next Sean.
When I replaced the lift pump on mine I could it running when I turned ignition on never heard the old one.Then again the old one was a bosch the new was cheaper one from euro car parts £60 Inc vat and 30% off about 6 weeks ago car runs a lot smoother and idles better runs well for 167000 miles. 1 bolt 2 push on pipes 2 push on leads 20 mins max to change.
hi mate , i dont tent to work on tdsis like petrol cars but just a thought have you cheked the fuel pump in the tank ?on petrol cars they some times have a filter on the fuel pump , im thinking it could be nearly completly clogged , and allowing enough fuel through to run but it cant suck enough up to keep up with the demand of open throttle ? i may be wrong but i guess its worth a try hope to see more videos
Oyy what a nightmare. Great troubleshooting Martin. I would have put a meter on the relay contacts to show before and after the contact cleaning. Your car acts just like my Taurus did with the crank position sensor out of whack. Runs normal, then a hickup, then all the bumping like a bucking Bronco. I still think that will be the problem. Fuel pumps just go bad and nothing starts or runs. Waiting anxiously for the next vid. Have some Ovaltine.
I will check that Bri with the scope to see how it performs under load. Not totally ruling it out but had to check this first.
Hi Martin, get someone to go out with you and have forscan running with just FRP and see if it drops when it's kangarooing, when the car is cold the fuel re-circulates from the fuel filter to HP pump, when it reaches a certain temp it then starts getting sent back down the return line to fuel tank, this might be when your problems start, and you can look at fuel temp (FTS) in forscan, and CHT Cylider head temp.I would also be looking at FRP to see if your lift pump cant supply your HP pump with enough fuel when you're having problems.
It's a good point. I am uploading a new vid now. The lift pump is working when the car is cranked as I can hear it with a screwdriver on it and putting it to my ear.
martin i think u draged some dirt up when u brok down and it blocking the lift pump and it block the fule
I'll be removing the lift pump and checking it Chris so i'll know soon.
thanks for the update .. cheers Steve
Cheers Steve.
you still see mk1 TDCI advertised as ' one day didn't start was told to scrap it' bit of a learning curve I guess but worth it
forgot to mention have something to hand to plug the hose when you remove it from pump I tried hose clamp but because the pipe is nylon it wouldn't pinch it propley to stop the flow.
Thanks for the info Sean.
Cheers
Martin
Turning into a great series Martin, we used to call it 'kangaroo fuel' when I was a kid driving old mini's and ford consul 375's, and zodiacs and such... will be fascinated to see what it really is, but would appear to be something breaking down under temperature. Keep up the great vids. Any plans for veggie vids this year? What happened to the poly tunnel and the pond rehab? Best....
The polytunnel is full of Lawnmowers now Alan and the pond is still a fire pit lol.
The Mondy will live again.
Haha, yes it will
Just the process of elimination.
Hi is the car high mileage could an injector breaking down.which would explain clouds of smoke or unburnt fuel.
155,000 Geoff. getting the inexpensive tests done first.
Ahh what a nightmare. Hope it's done soon. Imagine Sharon is wanting to use it?
Sharon's using her friends car at the moment Greg so she's not carless.
retrorestore good
I have mk3 tdci 130, sore on mpg no codes. Changed oil fuel air filters. New crank pulley belt tensioner, water pump thermostat pipes, alternator. New fuel pressure valve on back of pump. It starts drives accelerates as it should just very heavy on fuel, no smell on fuel, engine noisy
I would do a live data on the 02 sensor to see if it was reading ok.
great video buddy i have an issue with my Citreon C3 and I'm walking the same path as you narrowing the possible cause. alternator and battery are in good condition so looking for clues to narrow things down. As with your issue it's a case of illimination
Hope you get it sorted Bill.
Cheers
Martin
fantastic keep the videos coming
Thanks Shane.
Hi Martin, interesting video. When the car started to smoke, was the smoke black or white? If it's black this could indicate overfuelling. This can be caused by sticking vanes on the VNTurbo causing airflow problems. When the vanes stick, it can cause the air mass meter to misbehave and throw up a code which can make it appear the mass sensor is the problem and not the VNT. Since fuelling is related to air mass meter, a chain of faults occurs that will generate all sorts of fault codes. I was once asked to deal with a Volkswagen Sharan TD which had similar symptoms as your Mondeo. At first glance it looked like a knackered mass meter but it was sticking vanes on the turbo. I know its a long shot but might be worth having a look as sticking VNT is a very common problem across all makes of vehicle that use VNT especially with electronic boost control as opposed to the traditional 'wastegate control'.
It wasn't black, more of a grey/blue. thanks for the info.
Cheers
Martin
hello to my friend i am from bosna
I have a problem with the burning Mondeo 2004 2.0 Tddi 66kw
The first start is good
When the engine warms up after 1-2 hours it will not ignite 1 time, and when it is start from the first time, the torque meter remains on the 500R and the torch light starts to flash.
While running 2 times, it's ideal without any mistakes.
And so every time
If you knew what the problem was, I'd be very grateful to you
See if it has any fault codes to give you a better idea bud.
retrorestore
fault codes
P 1564
P0335
PO336
C2316
P1316
P1664
if you could guess what the problem is
thank you in advance
That's a lot of fault codes to take a guess at bud.
Have you checked out the South Main Auto channel? This type of investigation would be right up his street. You mentioned the lift pump in a previous vid and everything is pointing towards that.
Yes, I've been watching his vids as well as Schrodingers Box, who knows his stuff too.
Now I am confused lol. It's a minefield out there
Eric O's a professional mechanic and unlike some other so-called "mechanics" he doesn't "play parts" darts on the strength of the fault codes. Martin said in the vid that if he'd taken it to Ford they would've done this and replaced the expensive fuel pump. I've not watched any of the Schrodinger Box vids yet so I can't really comment. Keep on with it Martin and you WILL get to the bottom of this problem.
is the relay for my car FORD Mondeo Mk3 Bj 2005 (B5Y) 2.2 TDCi (150 PS) right too ?
Hi Martin, get yourself the leakoff injector clips from the scrappy, and make yourself a leakoff test kit, and do the test when the car is upto temp. Loads of vids on youtube, you want all 4 bottles to be even, any high leakoff will be the bad injector.With forscan what is the fuel pressure doing when its kangarooing?, does it drop the same as the kangarooing?.
Not sure on the pressure but i'll check out a few vids on making that.
Cheers
Martin
jeansy10 Leak off kits are mega cheap from the likes of eBay with all the adapters!
I didn't know you could get the kits so cheap now, when I was looking a year ago the cheapest way was to cut up some old leak off pipes for the right connectors !.
hi martin, .....you will have to try and recreate the fault on your runway and not on a test run. let the car get up to normal temp, then plug in the F super, then put it to oscilloscope. choose injectors then watch what they do when hopefully the fault reoccurs, see if there is an unusual pattern with one of them, if you are on a test run set it to freeze frame to record the fault then you can play it back. the 1564 code is requesting lower fuelling because its either over fuelling or the solenoid which meters the fuel and the timing of it is telling the ecu there is not enuff fuel going in to the pump and therefore it adds fuel, same as fuel trim does on a petrol car, the question is why ??? this could also be caused by vacuum leak at the inlet manifold.which could explain the temp and giving the fast pedal some stick when it causes the hesitation the cables that go to the fuel pump go over the starter motor need checked thoroughly they may look fine but are notorious for being dodgy. if this was my transit I would be checking in this order. .......fuel filter, ( always use genuine ford the others are crap and prone to letting in air), fuel filter housing, fuel pump relay, vacuum leak at inlet, injector seals, wiring at the fuel injection pump. then put on the f super and check all the tests it will let you do on the oscilloscope...............heres a bit of an urban myth cleared up them bosch fuel pumps don't break down its the little box on top of it with the circuit board that goes kaput...............once again martin if you can recreate that fault on the runway where you can visually check the engine and study the f super then your halfway home to a solution...............good luck and let us see the f super results on camera
cheers willie
Cheers Willie, I'll be plugging the F Super in again and hopefully researching the fuelling in the next video. and I've read about the cables as well. That relay was a bit of a mystery and that is why I opened it up as so many people just change it without actually knowing how it works. I hope I've demystified that one. I'll need to do a bit more research on the PID's to watch when testing as well.
Cheers
Martin
hi can you help me please with these 3 codes???
P0409 -Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit
P1664 - Injection Pump Control ModuleMalfunction
P1564 -injection Pump Control Module Requesting Reduced Fueling
i got these code after repairing the injection pump.the simptoms are that i have a lot of losing power.cant run more than 120 km.h.i will apreciate any advice.
Ford mondeo mk3.2001.tddi 2.0
I take it this is for a TDCI as you have an EGR sensor fault. I'd be guessing bud without knowing exactly what you repaired.
i repared the electronic part from the injection pump.before that all was good. but now after that. i got these
Great video, But have to say Martin you have some patience , Bye now I would be bald and thinking scrap it lol
Haha, It gives me something to film though lol
My TDCi 96 kw Mondeo sometimes wont start from first try, when idle it is very rough sound and when I push throttle hard limp mode goes on. Could it be same thing as here?
Check your fault codes bud.
@@retrorestore Its a high pressure pump, which gonna cost me a lot to repair. Well I guess that there is nothing more expensive than a cheap turbo diesel. Thank you for your answer!
I hope you get this resolved soon, I appreciate you uploading these video's and helping people. out of interest what part of the UK are you from ?
So do I mark. I live in Lincolnshire but from London.
Cheers
Martin
Hi, thanks for replying. Shame you live so far I live in Skelmersdale in the North West , I'd like to think we could help each other out if we lived nearer, I have spent over £10,000 in repairs on 4 cars in around 5 years, current car has a clunk when bring clutch up but goes into each gear perfectly, also has suspected head gasket, been losing water for over 15 months but only needs topping up once a month, chemical test revealed bad head gasket. I'd have had head gasket replaced if it were not for the clunk noise and a few different other probems I am having with it, I think I will just use it as it still drives great atm, no power loss, no smoke , no oil/water mixing, it runs fine just have to top op water each month or so. It's so frustrating/sad to spend so much time/money into a car for it to fall apart and be unecomnical to repair, it's a 2006 mk2 ford focus spirt 1.8 tdci with 158,000 on clock, I could have it all repaired but I think I will continue saving for new car although I di like these cars It's already had over £2,000 spent on it in 2 years, I do some repairs myself and am continuing to learn, and your videos are helping me also, I'm not a mechanic but I have replaced a fair bit in the past 6 months, mainly brakes and suspensions, glow plugs, radiator, sensors *cylinder head sensor) , I really appreciate your videos and thanks for replying, keep up the good work and good luck !
Wow, you've spent a lot Mark, The clunk sounds to me like driveshafts when taking up the drive but without seeing it, I can't be 100% sure. Glad you are enjoying the vids as well bud.
All the best
Martin
Great vid mate cheers Jamie
Cheers bud, saved money on that relay.
I say EGR cooler or injectors .. Not sure Martin ?? Interesting though .. Has to be heat related ....Thumbs up man ..
It's a tricky one Shawn, much conflicting info out there.
Cheers
Martin
I agree but I can't stop people posting Dave.
well I guess I won't post then .......................
I cant see see Part number Plese wride it here the number of the relay i want to buy it
You've got some patience Martin i would have ripped my hair out by now.
Haha Michael, you ain't bald are you lol
Not yet.
Can u help me i have this problem if my car stay couple days i cant start him i need to pull him whit another car and the he start after that he start from first every time when i start him but again i put him to stay 2 or more days and i cant start him
Does the engine turn over, if not, it could be your starter motor.
retrorestore my starter motor is ok i change that
My car is ford mondeo 2001 TDDi 2.0
retrorestore and i forget to say my lift fuel pump leaks fuel litle bit can be that problem
chuck some red x in it martin lol do they still sell it ? Good video again look forward to the next installment 👍👍
If only it was that simple Paul lol.
Cheers
Martin
Glad your're persevering...It's not an old car..2001. Only a stroppy teenager!
Just the designers got too clever for our own good. My instinct is some kind of G-sensor. Your problem occurs after fast turns. That's got be an electronic nightmare!
I'm thinking..Maybe do the route the other way round..Do right turns! See if that changes things...Just a thought.
Can i get help i have mondeo mk3 55 plate 2l tdci actuator arm stopped moving flashing glow plug light loss of turbo i can coast n switch off ignition n back on tben boosys n cuts off help help help anybpdy ov cleaned egr valve and yoused whole tin of wynns turbo cleaner into air intake on turbo helo help help
Check for fault codes bud
what a choker of a problem Martin hope it not a expensive fix good luck
I hope so too Jon, If I paid a garage, there's horror stories of £1,000 + and still not cured out there.
With the Fordscan you have done virtually the same as most garages (including main dealers). As you say there are loads of instances of the fuel pump being changed, and not fixing the problem. There are thousands and thousands of similar scenarios covering most makes and models of cars. This ultimately brings you to the conclusion that the diagnostic set up of most cars is pants! Main stealers will put it straight on their diagnostic, at one heck of a charge. Now that might be worth it if they could tell what the EXACT fault is (guaranteed). But guess what folks, that won't gonna happen in a lifetime!!!! Rant over.
100% agree Stephen, that's why i'm doing this myself. I read that one dealer charged £300 just for their diagnostic time without actually correcting the fault or changing any parts.
retrorestore I have the Tdci estate on an 04 plate.
You have a problem with your bosch vp44. It is not injectors 100%.
Thanks for your comment, We'll get there so keep watching bud.
I can see some college students using this as their dissertation : )
Haha, you may be right Ted lol
looks like over fueling with all that smoke Eagle 1
That's the only bit I don't quite understand as the fault code states reduced fuelling mode.
Brialliant !!!!!!!
I think your problem is with the fuel pump
I hope not, it will be an expensive problem if it is.
Sergiu 09
That's a bad fuel pump