I preordered this printer, as well as one for my brother-in-law. We were both over the moon excited to have such a good upgrade from our old Mars 2 pros. After getting the printers up and running, we were having so much trouble getting good results. My brother-in-law couldn't get a single successful print after half a bottle of super expensive Resione resin. I was using Anycubic standard and was able to get some prints, but was getting regular support failures and very soft overhangs and overall detail. Over the course of a couple months we both ended up selling them and I purchased a Saturn 3 ultra, and my brother-in-law bought two additional Mars 2 Pros as we couldn't tell the difference between the higher resolution. The difference between my M5S and Saturn 3 Ultra was night and day. I have yet to get a failure on the Saturn to date that wasn't my fault. I've been thinking about making a video comparing results between the 3 printers. Glad to see it wasn't just us! Edit: my guess for the loss of detail compared to other printers is due to the light source that they use in this printer, as the M5 uses a traditional leveling system and PFA/FEP but still has issues with detail.
This guy is the best technical reviewer around for resin 3d printers. 3d printer manufacturers should ask him to check their printer first before actually sending them out.
Unfortunately, the reality I often get offering email, but then end up with them ghosting me for no clear reason after i reply to them, and i never ask for any fee at all. Please help share my video
Glad i ordered the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra over this, didn't understand auto leveling on a resin printer, on all my printers i just level once and never need to relevel also shorter buildplate was a huge problem for me. The ultra has been running great so far.
Dear Dennys, I admire your work and the quality of the surfaces. I would very much like to see the post-processing of your products. How you take them off the platform, wash them, light them, take them off the supports, process the print marks.... That would be very informative and interesting.
I just have to say that you are the best reviewer of resin 3D printers by far, your in-depth reviews and ability to dive deep into the technical issues any printer might have is invaluable for us others. You have helped so many people! ❤
That spring loaded bed is a neat idea. I can't help but think it would be impossible to get exact, repeatable focus as springs age and no way to adjust them
I really enjoy your reviews, they're very informative and I learn a lot from them. I'm even more excited to see the M5s in this installment, because I have one too. But I bought it 3 months ago and it's been failing to output every time, so now I can't use it. So I'm contacting Anycubic to try to fix it somehow. Auto leveling is a terrible feature for me.Anyway, thanks for the great videos every time.
Thanks for the great revfiew mate, you always do excellent reviews with excellent detail and information! I had this printer pre-ordered but after finding out how the auto-levelling worked and seeing some early problems come up with ACF, I cancelled and then ordered the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra...I'm constantly reminded of the bullet I dodged here. The S3U craps all over this M5S printer...I purchased an extra vat for the S3U an have nFEP on it and it does absolutely magnificent prints and is so very easy to use.
Smart decision. I have a Anycubic 6Ks and an M5s. After constant little nagging issues with both of them I purchased a Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra a few weeks ago. The quality and reliability is far superior with the Elegoo. Last night was the final straw with my 6Ks so I bought a second Saturn 3 Ultra.
I bought myself the M5S Pro last week. I'm sending it back. At fast speeds, the AA is really bad. Even at 0.01 layer height I can still easily see the layer lines with the naked eye.
Great review like always! I was debating between this, a few others and Phrozen mighty 8k. Ended up going with Phrozen as I am new and didn't want to have to troubleshoot another potential problem.
Detail could be lost because of the distance of the screen to the build plate. The further away the screen is from the plate, the softer or more light bleed can occur. That's why I would never use a screen protector because it increases the distance from screen to plate. Also, ACF film is thicker than NFEP, this will also be a factor. In the most ideal situation, you want that film to be directly on top of the screen and for it to be as thin as possible, then you will get the sharpest prints.
On my test with mighty 12k Acf vs pfa, the print result is the same. I think there is a thick tempered glass that add too much distance. Or the light just too op. You can check my video about acf
Thank you for a very informative video! It could explains why my m5s don't perform. When bought I didn't get one decent print out of it. After issuing a ticket with Anycubic support the fault was the leveling. I then received a new adjustable build plate. After leveling following a video from Anycubic it now works but I get longer prints banana shaped and distorted. My thoughts is that its the printing process in itself but perhaps it could be the uneven light strength from the display. I have a Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra on its way and it will be interesting comparing them when it arrives.
To fix the compression I added a washer between the build plate and arm. Also I loosened all the bolts that attach the arm to the rails. Between the washer and the small tolerance in the bolt holes we were able to eliminate/minimize shrinking issues in the base layers.
I have a long story of misery with this machine. In summary parts arrived broken, months waiting for replacements. Support refused to replace things and had to buy my own replacements like a new VAT. My first print with high speed resin (just bought one bottle to try it, no intention of using it long term) resulted in a decent looking statue but the parts were some of the worst dimensionally I've ever seen. I have some major filling and filing to do. Also more worryingly resin is splashing out of the VAT onto the machine case, the VAT walls outside and onto the machine next to the screen. Not a small amount of resin either. Needing multiple paper towels to mop it all up. Is that the high speed mode causing that? I have no idea. I've ditched the high speed resin and about to start using good old fashioned cheap resin with a bit of tenacious mixed in. I need to dial in the settings and hope this splashing doesn't continue because it will end up ruining the screen protector. I think this will be my last Anycubic machine but still got some hope I can dial it in better. Videos like this are super helpful but also a bitter pill to swallow finding out the gritty details. Still I pre-ordered, that's on me haha.
Hello, I accidentally came across your channel. I see that almost all of your videos have not been seen by any person professional than you. You are very professional in your work. Can you help me set up my printer?You are very professional in putting support. I try. Like you, but I can't do it specifically, I get bad models.
Have to ask a question. When you were swapping resins, were you swapping from the matte FEP to the regular FEP when using the non fast resin? I have 2 vats for my M5s, one with the matte fep for the high speed prototyping, one with the regular clear fep. I've never had the issues you show in this video with either. The M5s is an M5 when all of the fep and resin and settings are changed to non high speed.
Why do we need auto leveling for resin printers? Auto leveling is useful for large FDM printers, however, it seems to be less usefull for resin printers.
Fdm auto leveling is real auto leveling. This is just leveling free compensate by springs to withstands the plate pressure. Cheap hack but doesnt work well.
I got one of these printers. It came with only the high speed resin and so far it's not been amazing print. I wait on the better resin to arrive so I can put this to the test. I hope it does the job I paid for, that is to print boxes for PCBs
I'm so mixed about this Printer. I think it's great that Anycubic is finally pushing its boundaries a little bit again, but their quality of their printer and software are still lagging behind a lot. I just hope that Anycubic will at the very least pressure all other printer companies to also start including things such as self leveling and heating.
As always, great video. If you watch FauxHammers video he did find that using the regular clear FEP film fixed the sharpness issue. The ACF works great for fast printing but not for the sharp detail. I have one of these coming and I am planning on having two resin vats. One with the ACF for rapid prototyping and one with FEP for more detailed prints. Time will tell if this works for me.
I have seen some detail improvements with the FEP. It's really rare that I am in a hurry to get a print completed, so slowing things down for printing on FEP isn't a big deal for me. But it's nice to know I can print fastbif I want to. As for resin, I am using the Anycubic Water Wash +. It is giving me great results, and I like that you don't need to use IPA for washing. My advice would be to download the Cones of Calibration from Table Flip Foundries and spend the time to get your exposure dialed in. Once I did that, I used Anycubics recommended settings for that resin. Other than the exposure time of coarse. I hope this helps.
Excellent review, I like the empirical approach. Many others have experienced this detail loss issue on the M5s and narrowed it to the ACF film. Looks like the one from Anycubic really sacrifices detail for speed. Some are using the nFEP tray from the M5 on the M5s to get the full 12k detail. They then swap it out with the ACF tray if they need speed. Please give this a try and let us know how your results compare. Thank you!
If you see my reciew on acf film itself. I dont see any different comparing acf and nfep on mighty 12k. So i think either the lamp is op or, there is a thick glass on the screen because of pressure from the leveling free feature.
I've always been an FDM guy but this was my first resin printer. I guess as I'm not printing for high details, the M5S is doing very well for me (large dental prototypes for work and miniatures for my kids). Great content as always, I probably agree with you and some of the commenters here that it's not the ACF film but more so the light source. The next printer for me would be M3 Max for volume but the Elegoos are interesting too. Too bad I can't get GK Uniformation where I'm from.
Were you using the frosted fep? Because that stuff makes prints fuzzy and loses details. I've heard that you can use regular clear fit with the M5S and it comes out a lot better but other printers that are 12K can do a better job like the Saturn 3 or 4
@@wangdennys I actually quickly looked at your other vids to compare and it's the first time I see that test. I may miss something. anyway thanks for clearing it up. I think it also depends on resin, but if the resin is 100% good and gives good results on other machines then yeah.
Oh man I'm kind of bumming out watching this haha. I have a Saturn S and have been pretty happy with it. I just received the M5s (won it in a contest) yesterday, took it out of the box but haven't used it yet. Updated the firmware and was poking around in the anycubic software. Seems pretty neat and decently built but it's kind of a bummer to see how poorly it performs.. Kind of got me wondering if I should try to sell it haha.
Anycubic told jessey that the softness was due to some post processing they apply to slightly soften layer lines, but the result is way softer prints, it's ridiculous. That could be fixed in firmware but the matrix led just can't, imo such a light engine just isn't good enough for 12k
1) you are not one have problems with auto calibration. some printers can not print at all from box. 2) vertical lines on panel is from acf films as i know from other blogers and users 3) problem with sharpnes is also acf problem
I reviewed mighty 8k upgraded to 12k. Then compare the print result using acf and pfa, the print quality is the same. I don't think it is the acf. Or could be different acf quality than what i use on phrozen 12k review?
Itt coulld be since the glasss in the M5s is much thicker due to the use of pressure on the screen foor auto leveling. My guess is that they used a thick ACF film to protect it from auto leveling as well. If so this would make the M5s auto leveling feature a big mistake! The auto leveling is off by up to 1mm on the plate edges when tested with paper over the sensors and no VAT with a fake print run which is ridiculous leading to multiple print failures and having to compensate by long intial layer curing and large rafts. Anycubic know since they are providing new build plates with manual adjustment screws (the V2 plate) to buyers who scream loud enough.@@wangdennys
This was on my list of things to buy soon... I guess I will be looking elsewhere. Fyi I am a ig fan of Anycubic (5 Anycubic and 1 Elegoo) and this was disappointing to see... I think the spring loaded bed is the cause of the light details for sure.
I am totally agreed with you, I had preorder and I have received it, Always bad surprise with this printer, fail is its second name. I have give it to one friend and he have no more success with it. I think anycubic are bad on this printer and their slicer it's the worst software which I ever seen in 35 years of computering..
@@wangdennys have you tried using long wait times?? with normal printers if you don't wait 20-60s wait times for the first 1mm or so the printer doesn't have time to squeeze the resin to the right thickness, as a result the first few layers can be as much as 300um thicker than they should be, this is why people need such high base exposures, with long wait times I go from 30s to 6s on burn in layers and I only need 2!! A screen with springs could mean on these first layers the resin isn't being squahsed down as much due to the springs, this could be why people have such issues with getting prints to stick on this printer. I'm not sure exactly how it works though, are the springs loose during the whole print? or does it send the plate down to the springs and then clamp the screen in place? if the screen can move during the whole print then it could never work because lets say your plate is off by 1 degree, the springs could help the first layer be more consistient, but if the screen isn't then locked in place to match the angle of the screen, as the print continues it will move and as a result the self leveling won't level the later layers where there is no force to push the screen to be at the same angle as the plate.
It’s hard when you don’t know how to type on printers of this kind. It prints great out of the box if you know how. If you don’t know, figure it out and then do reviews.
LOL fanboys detected i guess someone just see the thumbnail without watching the content. if i dont figure it out, how the hell i have print results for the video. LOL how to type on printers of this kind? what are you talking about? how the hell i type with a resin 3d printer?
@@killswitchfpv5820 as i said. I did figure it out. Then i make this review. As i have printed several models for the video. I have 10 years of experience resin printing and built my own back then. But it is still the worst in my opinion. Still "how to type on printer of this kind" What do you mean?
Maybe im not a professional but i just got one and so far i haven't get any problems at all the quality is good the only issue is that is a pain in the a$$ set up the wifi
That is exactly the reason why I wait until you had a chance to review a printer before I buy it. I rather wait and pay more and get something that works than something like this.
The M5S has one of those sh*tty "LCD grid arrays", the optics are absolute crap on that printer. Also the "auto level" is funky as you saw, and believe it or not there is a force sensor in the gantry - it looks like Anycubic "rushed" out this printer, what a shame, but that's Anycubic... On the Voxeldance Tango discord the user "Marco" did very detailed posts all about the M5S, it's very interesting and worth looking at. Great review as usual!
@@wangdennys the praise will change into anger, because at the moment, anycubic isn't able to supply screens for this machine, they sold this thing months ago.
I preordered this printer, as well as one for my brother-in-law. We were both over the moon excited to have such a good upgrade from our old Mars 2 pros. After getting the printers up and running, we were having so much trouble getting good results. My brother-in-law couldn't get a single successful print after half a bottle of super expensive Resione resin. I was using Anycubic standard and was able to get some prints, but was getting regular support failures and very soft overhangs and overall detail. Over the course of a couple months we both ended up selling them and I purchased a Saturn 3 ultra, and my brother-in-law bought two additional Mars 2 Pros as we couldn't tell the difference between the higher resolution. The difference between my M5S and Saturn 3 Ultra was night and day. I have yet to get a failure on the Saturn to date that wasn't my fault. I've been thinking about making a video comparing results between the 3 printers. Glad to see it wasn't just us!
Edit: my guess for the loss of detail compared to other printers is due to the light source that they use in this printer, as the M5 uses a traditional leveling system and PFA/FEP but still has issues with detail.
Sorry for your bad experience.
At least you learn something.
This guy is the best technical reviewer around for resin 3d printers. 3d printer manufacturers should ask him to check their printer first before actually sending them out.
Unfortunately, the reality
I often get offering email, but then end up with them ghosting me for no clear reason after i reply to them, and i never ask for any fee at all.
Please help share my video
What incredible work ! This is the best review of this printer on our planet !
Thank you
Glad i ordered the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra over this, didn't understand auto leveling on a resin printer, on all my printers i just level once and never need to relevel also shorter buildplate was a huge problem for me. The ultra has been running great so far.
Dear Dennys, I admire your work and the quality of the surfaces.
I would very much like to see the post-processing of your products. How you take them off the platform, wash them, light them, take them off the supports, process the print marks....
That would be very informative and interesting.
Ah good idea.
Will definitely plan it for my next content.
The Termy is looking fantastic! Looking forward to it
I just have to say that you are the best reviewer of resin 3D printers by far, your in-depth reviews and ability to dive deep into the technical issues any printer might have is invaluable for us others. You have helped so many people! ❤
Thank you
I agree. Really I don't think any other reviewer comes close. Hopefully manufacturers (and more viewers) take notice.
Amen!
@@wangdennys you got me when you used the dial indicator, congratulations for you work!
@@monicalaiolti.santos thank you
That spring loaded bed is a neat idea. I can't help but think it would be impossible to get exact, repeatable focus as springs age and no way to adjust them
Yep
If only they make it adjustable
I really enjoy your reviews, they're very informative and I learn a lot from them. I'm even more excited to see the M5s in this installment, because I have one too. But I bought it 3 months ago and it's been failing to output every time, so now I can't use it. So I'm contacting Anycubic to try to fix it somehow. Auto leveling is a terrible feature for me.Anyway, thanks for the great videos every time.
Thank you
It's definitely down to the light source. If Anycubic had used a cob and a Fresnel lens the prints would be okay.
I have the same thought
Thanks for the great revfiew mate, you always do excellent reviews with excellent detail and information!
I had this printer pre-ordered but after finding out how the auto-levelling worked and seeing some early problems come up with ACF, I cancelled and then ordered the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra...I'm constantly reminded of the bullet I dodged here. The S3U craps all over this M5S printer...I purchased an extra vat for the S3U an have nFEP on it and it does absolutely magnificent prints and is so very easy to use.
Smart decision. I have a Anycubic 6Ks and an M5s. After constant little nagging issues with both of them I purchased a Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra a few weeks ago. The quality and reliability is far superior with the Elegoo. Last night was the final straw with my 6Ks so I bought a second Saturn 3 Ultra.
@@highrise9559 Sorry to hear you had the constant problems, but nice moves on the switch, the S3U is really very good, I love using it!
I bought myself the M5S Pro last week. I'm sending it back. At fast speeds, the AA is really bad. Even at 0.01 layer height I can still easily see the layer lines with the naked eye.
Great review like always! I was debating between this, a few others and Phrozen mighty 8k. Ended up going with Phrozen as I am new and didn't want to have to troubleshoot another potential problem.
Amazing review! The best I found in UA-cam
Detail could be lost because of the distance of the screen to the build plate. The further away the screen is from the plate, the softer or more light bleed can occur. That's why I would never use a screen protector because it increases the distance from screen to plate. Also, ACF film is thicker than NFEP, this will also be a factor. In the most ideal situation, you want that film to be directly on top of the screen and for it to be as thin as possible, then you will get the sharpest prints.
On my test with mighty 12k
Acf vs pfa, the print result is the same.
I think there is a thick tempered glass that add too much distance. Or the light just too op.
You can check my video about acf
Thank you for a very informative video! It could explains why my m5s don't perform. When bought I didn't get one decent print out of it. After issuing a ticket with Anycubic support the fault was the leveling. I then received a new adjustable build plate. After leveling following a video from Anycubic it now works but I get longer prints banana shaped and distorted. My thoughts is that its the printing process in itself but perhaps it could be the uneven light strength from the display. I have a Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra on its way and it will be interesting comparing them when it arrives.
To fix the compression I added a washer between the build plate and arm. Also I loosened all the bolts that attach the arm to the rails. Between the washer and the small tolerance in the bolt holes we were able to eliminate/minimize shrinking issues in the base layers.
Are you planning to review the M5S pro? I've bought that one today and I'm now doubting it
Nice video as always , which anycubic one is better from your experience,The M5 With no (S) - or the Mono X 6KS ?
I have a long story of misery with this machine. In summary parts arrived broken, months waiting for replacements. Support refused to replace things and had to buy my own replacements like a new VAT. My first print with high speed resin (just bought one bottle to try it, no intention of using it long term) resulted in a decent looking statue but the parts were some of the worst dimensionally I've ever seen. I have some major filling and filing to do. Also more worryingly resin is splashing out of the VAT onto the machine case, the VAT walls outside and onto the machine next to the screen. Not a small amount of resin either. Needing multiple paper towels to mop it all up. Is that the high speed mode causing that? I have no idea. I've ditched the high speed resin and about to start using good old fashioned cheap resin with a bit of tenacious mixed in. I need to dial in the settings and hope this splashing doesn't continue because it will end up ruining the screen protector. I think this will be my last Anycubic machine but still got some hope I can dial it in better. Videos like this are super helpful but also a bitter pill to swallow finding out the gritty details. Still I pre-ordered, that's on me haha.
It will takes time and patient.
But you will be able to use it like i did in the video.
with people like you making videos like this and putting advice out there I have a chance🤓 @wangdennys
@@ClayMann you will make it!
Don't give up
Take your time
And be patience
Hello, I accidentally came across your channel. I see that almost all of your videos have not been seen by any person professional than you. You are very professional in your work. Can you help me set up my printer?You are very professional in putting support. I try. Like you, but I can't do it specifically, I get bad models.
thank you
i do accept paid support work
@wangdennys Very nice How much does it cost
Have to ask a question. When you were swapping resins, were you swapping from the matte FEP to the regular FEP when using the non fast resin? I have 2 vats for my M5s, one with the matte fep for the high speed prototyping, one with the regular clear fep. I've never had the issues you show in this video with either. The M5s is an M5 when all of the fep and resin and settings are changed to non high speed.
thise man? dontt know how to print on such printers. that's the whole problem
"is it louder than a hungry kitten" should be a running metric in all future videos.😂
Too bad.
Kitten no longer with us due to fading kitten syndrome.
Why do we need auto leveling for resin printers?
Auto leveling is useful for large FDM printers, however, it seems to be less usefull for resin printers.
Fdm auto leveling is real auto leveling.
This is just leveling free compensate by springs to withstands the plate pressure.
Cheap hack but doesnt work well.
I got one of these printers. It came with only the high speed resin and so far it's not been amazing print. I wait on the better resin to arrive so I can put this to the test. I hope it does the job I paid for, that is to print boxes for PCBs
High speed resin not a good choice for detail work.
Hello, Dennis. Another very nice review. How good was the dimensional accuracy (I saw you had printed that cube), did you check it?
I forgot where is the video.
So i provide the measurement in video description
@@wangdennys Wonderful!
Review on mars 4 or mars 4 ultra would be great.
Can't tell if its better or worse compared to mini 8ks and by how much.
Sorry, same answer from elegoo.
They wont ship to my country.
Even if i am paying for the printer and shipping.
@@wangdennys Well, they should. 😡
@@magikarp2063 sorry i cant force them.
I'm so mixed about this Printer.
I think it's great that Anycubic is finally pushing its boundaries a little bit again, but their quality of their printer and software are still lagging behind a lot.
I just hope that Anycubic will at the very least pressure all other printer companies to also start including things such as self leveling and heating.
Agree with you
As always, great video. If you watch FauxHammers video he did find that using the regular clear FEP film fixed the sharpness issue. The ACF works great for fast printing but not for the sharp detail. I have one of these coming and I am planning on having two resin vats. One with the ACF for rapid prototyping and one with FEP for more detailed prints. Time will tell if this works for me.
Did you see better results? If so what was your preferred resin? I’m have a hellish time figuring out how to get decent prints on this damn machine.
I have seen some detail improvements with the FEP. It's really rare that I am in a hurry to get a print completed, so slowing things down for printing on FEP isn't a big deal for me. But it's nice to know I can print fastbif I want to.
As for resin, I am using the Anycubic Water Wash +. It is giving me great results, and I like that you don't need to use IPA for washing.
My advice would be to download the Cones of Calibration from Table Flip Foundries and spend the time to get your exposure dialed in. Once I did that, I used Anycubics recommended settings for that resin. Other than the exposure time of coarse.
I hope this helps.
I added a vat with nfep for m5s and happy with results. Have you tried it ?
On my other review i find no difference in print quality for acf and nfep.
Excellent review, I like the empirical approach. Many others have experienced this detail loss issue on the M5s and narrowed it to the ACF film. Looks like the one from Anycubic really sacrifices detail for speed. Some are using the nFEP tray from the M5 on the M5s to get the full 12k detail. They then swap it out with the ACF tray if they need speed. Please give this a try and let us know how your results compare. Thank you!
If you see my reciew on acf film itself.
I dont see any different comparing acf and nfep on mighty 12k.
So i think either the lamp is op or, there is a thick glass on the screen because of pressure from the leveling free feature.
I've always been an FDM guy but this was my first resin printer. I guess as I'm not printing for high details, the M5S is doing very well for me (large dental prototypes for work and miniatures for my kids). Great content as always, I probably agree with you and some of the commenters here that it's not the ACF film but more so the light source. The next printer for me would be M3 Max for volume but the Elegoos are interesting too. Too bad I can't get GK Uniformation where I'm from.
I have a feeling toward the op light.
Anycubic always has such op light source.
Were you using the frosted fep? Because that stuff makes prints fuzzy and loses details. I've heard that you can use regular clear fit with the M5S and it comes out a lot better but other printers that are 12K can do a better job like the Saturn 3 or 4
Kitten was too cute 🤩
Unfortunately kittan died cause of sickness 😢
😢@@wangdennys
Can you tell more about mesh test? what those results tells you, how do you "read" that test?
If the printer can do fine details
The smallest mesh 0.1 should be able to be print.
Check my other review to compare
@@wangdennys I actually quickly looked at your other vids to compare and it's the first time I see that test. I may miss something. anyway thanks for clearing it up. I think it also depends on resin, but if the resin is 100% good and gives good results on other machines then yeah.
Fantastic video
So the best way to print set up is?
Thanks very through test
love your content man!!!
Thank you
Oh man I'm kind of bumming out watching this haha. I have a Saturn S and have been pretty happy with it. I just received the M5s (won it in a contest) yesterday, took it out of the box but haven't used it yet. Updated the firmware and was poking around in the anycubic software. Seems pretty neat and decently built but it's kind of a bummer to see how poorly it performs.. Kind of got me wondering if I should try to sell it haha.
Anycubic told jessey that the softness was due to some post processing they apply to slightly soften layer lines, but the result is way softer prints, it's ridiculous. That could be fixed in firmware but the matrix led just can't, imo such a light engine just isn't good enough for 12k
Yes i also think the issue is op light source
SUPEEEEEEEEER!
1) you are not one have problems with auto calibration. some printers can not print at all from box.
2) vertical lines on panel is from acf films as i know from other blogers and users
3) problem with sharpnes is also acf problem
I reviewed mighty 8k upgraded to 12k.
Then compare the print result using acf and pfa, the print quality is the same.
I don't think it is the acf.
Or could be different acf quality than what i use on phrozen 12k review?
Itt coulld be since the glasss in the M5s is much thicker due to the use of pressure on the screen foor auto leveling. My guess is that they used a thick ACF film to protect it from auto leveling as well. If so this would make the M5s auto leveling feature a big mistake! The auto leveling is off by up to 1mm on the plate edges when tested with paper over the sensors and no VAT with a fake print run which is ridiculous leading to multiple print failures and having to compensate by long intial layer curing and large rafts. Anycubic know since they are providing new build plates with manual adjustment screws (the V2 plate) to buyers who scream loud enough.@@wangdennys
will you get the m5s pro 14k printer as well?
Nope, sorry.
This was on my list of things to buy soon... I guess I will be looking elsewhere. Fyi I am a ig fan of Anycubic (5 Anycubic and 1 Elegoo) and this was disappointing to see...
I think the spring loaded bed is the cause of the light details for sure.
I am totally agreed with you, I had preorder and I have received it, Always bad surprise with this printer, fail is its second name. I have give it to one friend and he have no more success with it. I think anycubic are bad on this printer and their slicer it's the worst software which I ever seen in 35 years of computering..
I don't get why the shipped the printer with the self leveling system when it doesn't work at all
It should work.
But something missing here.
@@wangdennys have you tried using long wait times?? with normal printers if you don't wait 20-60s wait times for the first 1mm or so the printer doesn't have time to squeeze the resin to the right thickness, as a result the first few layers can be as much as 300um thicker than they should be, this is why people need such high base exposures, with long wait times I go from 30s to 6s on burn in layers and I only need 2!! A screen with springs could mean on these first layers the resin isn't being squahsed down as much due to the springs, this could be why people have such issues with getting prints to stick on this printer. I'm not sure exactly how it works though, are the springs loose during the whole print? or does it send the plate down to the springs and then clamp the screen in place? if the screen can move during the whole print then it could never work because lets say your plate is off by 1 degree, the springs could help the first layer be more consistient, but if the screen isn't then locked in place to match the angle of the screen, as the print continues it will move and as a result the self leveling won't level the later layers where there is no force to push the screen to be at the same angle as the plate.
It’s hard when you don’t know how to type on printers of this kind. It prints great out of the box if you know how. If you don’t know, figure it out and then do reviews.
LOL fanboys detected
i guess someone just see the thumbnail without watching the content.
if i dont figure it out, how the hell i have print results for the video. LOL
how to type on printers of this kind? what are you talking about? how the hell i type with a resin 3d printer?
@@wangdennys i have som sla and dop printers, an they printing perfect if you use right parameters of printing).
@@killswitchfpv5820 as i said. I did figure it out. Then i make this review.
As i have printed several models for the video.
I have 10 years of experience resin printing and built my own back then.
But it is still the worst in my opinion.
Still "how to type on printer of this kind" What do you mean?
Maybe im not a professional but i just got one and so far i haven't get any problems at all the quality is good the only issue is that is a pain in the a$$ set up the wifi
I have a support ticket as my mono m5s seems to have a leveling issue. I will update this comment when I find out what happens.
Thank you
That is exactly the reason why I wait until you had a chance to review a printer before I buy it. I rather wait and pay more and get something that works than something like this.
Good move
Thumbnail with zaro chill
Hahahahah 😆
3D printer manufacturers still struggling to work out how to put a USB on the front
And when the auto-leveling doesn't work they simply don't care at all "suggesting" to manually level each time you have to print something.
Show more screaming kitten asking some milk
tiny kitten
The M5S has one of those sh*tty "LCD grid arrays", the optics are absolute crap on that printer.
Also the "auto level" is funky as you saw, and believe it or not there is a force sensor in the gantry - it looks like Anycubic "rushed" out this printer, what a shame, but that's Anycubic...
On the Voxeldance Tango discord the user "Marco" did very detailed posts all about the M5S, it's very interesting and worth looking at.
Great review as usual!
They killed the m3 premium and replaced it with this turd, unbelievable, what an L
Although i never use m3 premium.
I always heard users praise it.
@@wangdennys the praise will change into anger, because at the moment, anycubic isn't able to supply screens for this machine, they sold this thing months ago.