For someone who has the mmu2s and is struggling like you were, Im disappointed you didnt cover the fixs you learned. Thanks for linking Mr Rileys video at least but his video is for mmu2.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting The title of this video is "the mmu2s works". So yea your mmu2s is working. True title - yours works. You showed a bunch of prints after saying how much you struggled with this thing. I was expecting to see the actually fixs and explanation as to why and how those fixs got you working again. Not just links..... this is a video not a tweet or web post?? The mmu2 is different mmu2s or else why would prusa bother upgrading it. Im taking the time to explain why I thumbs down the video and why I was disappointed.
I'm not one to redo someone else's video. I get nothing from that. This video was not a tutorial either as it was more of a VLOG about me working on it. If you wanted a tutorial, go watch Chris' video. There is nothing wrong with sourcing someone else's video but copying it is wrong. Again, the MMU2 and MMU2S are EXACTLY THE SAME. The only difference is the buffer bit which I'm not using which has nothing to do with the functionality of the MMU2. You said you have it. Did you change out the parts I said and follow Chirs' video, like I did, and get it working? If you did all that, and still have issues, I'd love to hear about it.
I got mine barely working, it's a massive pain in the ass. But when I get mad, I take a step back and look at the engineering marvel that it is, that us mere mortals are able to afford. It's very finniky but I found that the extruder sensor and mmu finda have to be working PERFECTLY, or it'll do very very very strange stuff on you. Oh also, my tips are hopelessly super stringy because I have old thermal compound on my heat break. You can add a couple cooling moves to help, but if you're above 4, dismantle your hot end and re apply thermal paste to your heat break. Weird, but apparently there isn't much in the software side you can do to improve the tips if cooling moves don't eliminate stringing
It's awesome that you got the MMU2S working. I did go the route of the Palette2. It's super reliable. There's no interventions like the Prusa and it just works.
Look up some of the auto rewind spool holders. There's some that are designed to fit in the box, and no buffer needed. Just tune the rewind torque to what you need for the MMU and keep it nice and clean.
I tried them and they never worked. Not sure what the issue was. I even reached out to Joe Mike about it. Either way, the MMU2 is gone and the Palette 2S Pro has a buffer inside it.
MMU is the ultimate test of patience. My main problem was that it bricked my MK3 while I was trying to get the thing to work. To get around this, I designed a Y adapter for feeding a single filament to the extruder without having to disassemble, as well as jumper cables between the MMU and rambo. That way, whenever I got fed up with the endless tweaking, I just unplugged the jumpers and fed filament through my bypass and printed normally. When the MMU is unplugged, the printer acts like it never existed, thankfully. Without being able to print between marathon troubleshooting sessions, I would have chucked the MMU in the bin. My conclusion is the same as everyone else - it can be made to work but it's not for dilettantes.
I have seen good things about the X1 but I have not used it. Some people get great prints off the MMU2S, it was a hassle for me. I like my Palette 2S Pro for multi color prints.
This is a project, Not a product. I wish Prusa was a little more up front about that. Claiming a "lower" failure rate as a success wouldn't be acceptable with pretty much any other product.
It lowers the chance of the jams. However the filament diameter is 1.75, the tip can be wider (usually it is), and you want less friction there, especially when unloading.
I use a filament buffer with a ball bearing wheel which works really nice and looks good. I remixed it a bit and uploaded it to Prusaprinters. Same username. But I have some trouble with PTFE friction. It is way to high. One reason is the base of the buffer which constrains the tube quite a bit so I will have to modify it. The other reason could be the 90° bend I have from the enclosure to the mmu. I still have to find a solution for that. Maybe some ball bearing wheels as well
Any chance you can give me the exact name of the blue filament. I see this listed in blue "KD Essentials PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1 kg (2.2 pounds) Spool", but I am not sure your color is just blue. It seems to be a metallic blue, or a shiny blue. Regardless, I love the way it looks and want to ensure I order the correct color. Thank you.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting interesting, I have had hit or miss results with PLA on the powder coated sheet. I will only use PLA on the PEI smooth sheet now. I use the powder sheet with PETG, ASA, ABS. Thanks for the reply also.
@@LawnD4rt dissolve some gluestick (or any other PVA) in water and brush a thin layer on the bed. Then heat it up while you keep brushing. The thin layer that's left works like a charm for PLA and most others. Just remember to wipe the bed with alcohol before every print
@Richard Parker Ya re-checked Z height. I was still to high. I brought it down and it seems to be allot better. I still would not do PLA with a small surface area on the powder sheet. Or not without a brim. I have not used glue stick on either the steel sheet or the powder sheet with any filament at this point.
I print PLA pretty much every day on the powder coated sheets. You just need a little more squish than you do on smooth sheets. Also, make sure your bed temps are 60c. Pretty PLA profile and others have it at 70 and that almost always fails.
Hi great video. Can you please describe more the mod that you use for mdtpf pass-throw. Chris video is not with the IR Sensor. Do you disable the IR sensor ?
Finally some tips beside the other videos, that were really helpful. Your tip with the bigger tubes and the "wiggle room" saved the mmu2 from being put back in the box! :)
HI, I HANK YOU FOR YOUR EFFORT ON INFORMING US WHAT YOU HAVE DONE TO GET THE MMU UNIT TO WORK, BUT WITH THAT BEEN SAID WHY DO WE , THE CONSUMERS HAVE TO DO THE WORK , AND WHY CAN 'T PRUSA JUST GET THEIR ACT TOGETHER A SALE A FULLY WORKING PRODUCT , , IT DOESN'T EVEN COME AS A COMPLETE UNIT WE HAVE TO PUT IT TOGETHER , I HAVE BEEN WATCHING MANY VIDEOS AND JUST ABOUT EVERYONE HAS AN ISUE WITH IT , I AM STILL HOPFULL , BUT I CANT SEE IT WORKING, I AM PROBABLY LOOKING ELSE WHERE. THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
been spending almost 2 months trying to get my mmu2s to work reliably... watched chris's video, watched every video, still isn't reliable. will be returning it and my mk3 i bought with it
I bought a Palette 2s and what an absolute piece of shit that is. UA-camrs talk them up so they get more products but go to any forum and check all the one star posts. Mate Mosaic Manufacturing is not sending you anything with only 20k subs. Trust me you don't need the headfuck from Palette and their no refund policy is cause they no their product is junk and does not work correctly but Canadian Consumer Laws overrides that so you can get a refund. Good luck getting free stuff in the future lol.
Thanks for all the info, my mmu2s is otw now it will be a surprise!
For someone who has the mmu2s and is struggling like you were, Im disappointed you didnt cover the fixs you learned. Thanks for linking Mr Rileys video at least but his video is for mmu2.
Didn't cover it? I said to go watch Chris' video and follow that. Other than that I stated everything.
Also there is no difference between the MMU2 and the MMU2S. I also talked about and link the remixed parts I used that he didn't talk about.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting The title of this video is "the mmu2s works". So yea your mmu2s is working. True title - yours works.
You showed a bunch of prints after saying how much you struggled with this thing. I was expecting to see the actually fixs and explanation as to why and how those fixs got you working again. Not just links..... this is a video not a tweet or web post??
The mmu2 is different mmu2s or else why would prusa bother upgrading it.
Im taking the time to explain why I thumbs down the video and why I was disappointed.
I'm not one to redo someone else's video. I get nothing from that. This video was not a tutorial either as it was more of a VLOG about me working on it. If you wanted a tutorial, go watch Chris' video. There is nothing wrong with sourcing someone else's video but copying it is wrong. Again, the MMU2 and MMU2S are EXACTLY THE SAME. The only difference is the buffer bit which I'm not using which has nothing to do with the functionality of the MMU2.
You said you have it. Did you change out the parts I said and follow Chirs' video, like I did, and get it working? If you did all that, and still have issues, I'd love to hear about it.
I got mine barely working, it's a massive pain in the ass. But when I get mad, I take a step back and look at the engineering marvel that it is, that us mere mortals are able to afford. It's very finniky but I found that the extruder sensor and mmu finda have to be working PERFECTLY, or it'll do very very very strange stuff on you. Oh also, my tips are hopelessly super stringy because I have old thermal compound on my heat break. You can add a couple cooling moves to help, but if you're above 4, dismantle your hot end and re apply thermal paste to your heat break. Weird, but apparently there isn't much in the software side you can do to improve the tips if cooling moves don't eliminate stringing
Very nice, precise, clear video. Thank you very much!!!
Good one Shane, I just scored an MMU2S and watched your vid first ( after Prusa's ) Now I'll watch Chris'. Thanks, Cheers, JAYTEE
It's awesome that you got the MMU2S working. I did go the route of the Palette2. It's super reliable. There's no interventions like the Prusa and it just works.
Yes I m thinking to buy the palette I have the Mmu2s and is horrible product lost my money
have you continued to have good luck with it? I heard their support is worse when it doesn't work
make the mmu2 work is jajaja just in dreams , for me is a huge shit , bye bye prusa hello bamboo lab
Look up some of the auto rewind spool holders. There's some that are designed to fit in the box, and no buffer needed. Just tune the rewind torque to what you need for the MMU and keep it nice and clean.
I tried them and they never worked. Not sure what the issue was. I even reached out to Joe Mike about it. Either way, the MMU2 is gone and the Palette 2S Pro has a buffer inside it.
MMU is the ultimate test of patience. My main problem was that it bricked my MK3 while I was trying to get the thing to work. To get around this, I designed a Y adapter for feeding a single filament to the extruder without having to disassemble, as well as jumper cables between the MMU and rambo. That way, whenever I got fed up with the endless tweaking, I just unplugged the jumpers and fed filament through my bypass and printed normally. When the MMU is unplugged, the printer acts like it never existed, thankfully. Without being able to print between marathon troubleshooting sessions, I would have chucked the MMU in the bin. My conclusion is the same as everyone else - it can be made to work but it's not for dilettantes.
"Chris's basement" is one of the best UA-cam channel for 3D printing. The guy videos are on point, well made and underrated.
thanks
I have YET to get mine working. I'm running into loading issues at this point. FRUSTERATED is an understatement
After hearing that is the new BambooLab X1/Carbon the bette option? Seems to have much less hassle
I have seen good things about the X1 but I have not used it. Some people get great prints off the MMU2S, it was a hassle for me. I like my Palette 2S Pro for multi color prints.
If you had printer it with the numbers down, the black mixed in the white would have faded out and been less noticeable, right?
This is a project, Not a product. I wish Prusa was a little more up front about that. Claiming a "lower" failure rate as a success wouldn't be acceptable with pretty much any other product.
Didn't learn a thing from this Video apart from your product linking !!
Anymore multicolor prints to show the quality??
What ptfe tube did you change to to add "more slop" was it the 3mm? I got a little confused and want to make sure I get the right size
It lowers the chance of the jams. However the filament diameter is 1.75, the tip can be wider (usually it is), and you want less friction there, especially when unloading.
I use a filament buffer with a ball bearing wheel which works really nice and looks good. I remixed it a bit and uploaded it to Prusaprinters. Same username. But I have some trouble with PTFE friction. It is way to high. One reason is the base of the buffer which constrains the tube quite a bit so I will have to modify it. The other reason could be the 90° bend I have from the enclosure to the mmu. I still have to find a solution for that. Maybe some ball bearing wheels as well
You're lucky. It's hit or miss on whether it works or not.
Any chance you can give me the exact name of the blue filament. I see this listed in blue "KD Essentials PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1 kg (2.2 pounds) Spool", but I am not sure your color is just blue. It seems to be a metallic blue, or a shiny blue. Regardless, I love the way it looks and want to ensure I order the correct color. Thank you.
Here you go: amzn.to/2N9TUvI
Nice work😊 , also hi5!!!
My son wants me to 3D print the two red and black and blue and black guns on your shelf. Can you help me find that link? Best Regards!
They are both from Juri's Patreon. www.patreon.com/3dworkbench
What are you doing to get PLA to stick on the powder coated sheet?
Most of the time nothing but sometimes I'll use glue stick.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting interesting, I have had hit or miss results with PLA on the powder coated sheet. I will only use PLA on the PEI smooth sheet now. I use the powder sheet with PETG, ASA, ABS. Thanks for the reply also.
@@LawnD4rt dissolve some gluestick (or any other PVA) in water and brush a thin layer on the bed. Then heat it up while you keep brushing. The thin layer that's left works like a charm for PLA and most others. Just remember to wipe the bed with alcohol before every print
@Richard Parker Ya re-checked Z height. I was still to high. I brought it down and it seems to be allot better. I still would not do PLA with a small surface area on the powder sheet. Or not without a brim. I have not used glue stick on either the steel sheet or the powder sheet with any filament at this point.
I print PLA pretty much every day on the powder coated sheets. You just need a little more squish than you do on smooth sheets. Also, make sure your bed temps are 60c. Pretty PLA profile and others have it at 70 and that almost always fails.
Hi great video. Can you please describe more the mod that you use for mdtpf pass-throw. Chris video is not with the IR Sensor. Do you disable the IR sensor ?
I did not disable it. The 2 mods I printed just make it easier for the filament to move through the system.
will this work on the MK3s clones? :)
Yes
Finally some tips beside the other videos, that were really helpful. Your tip with the bigger tubes and the "wiggle room" saved the mmu2 from being put back in the box! :)
Can you put make this a 32 bit board?
HI, I HANK YOU FOR YOUR EFFORT ON INFORMING US WHAT YOU HAVE DONE TO GET THE MMU UNIT TO WORK, BUT WITH THAT BEEN SAID WHY DO WE , THE CONSUMERS HAVE TO DO THE WORK , AND WHY CAN 'T PRUSA JUST GET THEIR ACT TOGETHER A SALE A FULLY WORKING PRODUCT , , IT DOESN'T EVEN COME AS A COMPLETE UNIT WE HAVE TO PUT IT TOGETHER , I HAVE BEEN WATCHING MANY VIDEOS AND JUST ABOUT EVERYONE HAS AN ISUE WITH IT , I AM STILL HOPFULL , BUT I CANT SEE IT WORKING, I AM PROBABLY LOOKING ELSE WHERE. THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
been spending almost 2 months trying to get my mmu2s to work reliably... watched chris's video, watched every video, still isn't reliable. will be returning it and my mk3 i bought with it
mmu2s such a big shit!!!! i have it and i want my money back
I have since gotten rid of mine but apparently the newest version is quite good. I wouldn't buy it again though.
I bought a Palette 2s and what an absolute piece of shit that is. UA-camrs talk them up so they get more products but go to any forum and check all the one star posts. Mate Mosaic Manufacturing is not sending you anything with only 20k subs. Trust me you don't need the headfuck from Palette and their no refund policy is cause they no their product is junk and does not work correctly but Canadian Consumer Laws overrides that so you can get a refund. Good luck getting free stuff in the future lol.
Again a video sows a man not machine nor function.