My steps are a little more complex, but picked up some good information. Thanks. I'm also a Senior not really able to do it. Plus he has some tools I don't have.Good Video.
You appear to be using regular untreated lumber when reinforcing at 1:12. This will rot, especially where moisture is trapped between the two pieces of lumber.
@@stevewyche5232 what about paint, plus how did treated wood come into existence when In Olden days wood lasted a life time..at least longer then this 'tampered' so called untreated wood
@@wordupup7155Paint can help but most people don't understand paint enough and make the situation worse. What happened in the ye olden days, was this magical thing called... ✨It rotted✨ - treatments existed, had nothing to do with paint and were generally extremely ineffective The reality is the person is doing a quick and dirty, highly temporary fix
The reason they failed the way they in the first place was because there is no stringer in the middle. You need support there or the same thing will happen. Also, staining/sealing wood is not the same as pressure treating.
Great video! Quick question - why didn’t you replace the ledger board? I’m not challenging you but I’m trying to understand your decision process. I have the same situation but am considering also replacing the ledger (top back) board - the piece of wood to which you attached the 2x4. Thanks 👍
.i see you used 2x6 on the horizontal part of the stair stringer....i will do the same...I have a question..I'm doing a replacement on my front stairs ..thats connected to my porch..my porch has round hollowed out pillars....and the stairs i took out out..the top hand rail was connected to 2 of the pillars ....I don't want that on the new install...should I use 4x4 vertical to mount my the top hand rail..or what size do you suggest...and also do I secure the base of the board into cement in the ground..or just keep it screwed into stair stringer and areas on the porch...the house is close to 100 years old..and i believe the porch pillars are the originals.
I did my cuts then stained/ sealed, that way all sides of the wood your using is protected....it was during a very hot 3 days ...so my Thompson's sealer/and stain dried very quickly.....this is what i did...i cut my wood..my sons applied the Thompson's ..I leveled and screwed the already dried wood pieces to fit...then I went back and applied some caulking in certain areas, and I will paint later on, haven't decided what color to use.
I mean, but why not clean it while all that space is there, like you didn't have to do one or the other you could've cleaned it and then put the stairs in. He's just saying that itd be better to do both, not that you shouldnt repair the stairs at all cuz theres trash near it
I would have used some woodglue to increase the strength. And also I would have used pressure treated lumber, that yellow stuff cannot be treated and will not last as long.
My steps are a little more complex, but picked up some good information. Thanks. I'm also a Senior not really able to do it. Plus he has some tools I don't have.Good Video.
You appear to be using regular untreated lumber when reinforcing at 1:12. This will rot, especially where moisture is trapped between the two pieces of lumber.
Yes need pressure treated
@@stevewyche5232 what about paint, plus how did treated wood come into existence when In Olden days wood lasted a life time..at least longer then this 'tampered' so called untreated wood
@@wordupup7155 No words for an idiot
@@wordupup7155Paint can help but most people don't understand paint enough and make the situation worse.
What happened in the ye olden days, was this magical thing called...
✨It rotted✨ - treatments existed, had nothing to do with paint and were generally extremely ineffective
The reality is the person is doing a quick and dirty, highly temporary fix
The reason they failed the way they in the first place was because there is no stringer in the middle. You need support there or the same thing will happen. Also, staining/sealing wood is not the same as pressure treating.
Absolutely this is really bad advice.
Nice job. Thanks for sharing 👍
You need a center stringer. That stair case is too wide.
Agree, this is poor advice.
Great video! Quick question - why didn’t you replace the ledger board?
I’m not challenging you but I’m trying to understand your decision process. I have the same situation but am considering also replacing the ledger (top back) board - the piece of wood to which you attached the 2x4.
Thanks 👍
this was done for a costumer with not much money and on a budget.
C.L.S. Allinone Thanks so much!! I appreciate your reply. 👍
A step is 7" high but what would be a safe width tho
Thank you!
Thank you, nice job
.i see you used 2x6 on the horizontal part of the stair stringer....i will do the same...I have a question..I'm doing a replacement on my front stairs ..thats connected to my porch..my porch has round hollowed out pillars....and the stairs i took out out..the top hand rail was connected to 2 of the pillars ....I don't want that on the new install...should I use 4x4 vertical to mount my the top hand rail..or what size do you suggest...and also do I secure the base of the board into cement in the ground..or just keep it screwed into stair stringer and areas on the porch...the house is close to 100 years old..and i believe the porch pillars are the originals.
Showemright YTchannel 4x4 would work great. And you should either use concrete or concrete pavers to separate wood from dirt.
thanks brother..will do.
Wat do call the back board that goes between the steps
Gives you a good idea 💡
does it matter if the wood is pressure treated or not?
Showemright YTchannel no but it will need sealed/stained if not pretreated.
thank you
Showemright YTchannel Hi can I stain it before I do my steps, or is it best to just build the steps and wait to stain it?
I did my cuts then stained/ sealed, that way all sides of the wood your using is protected....it was during a very hot 3 days ...so my Thompson's sealer/and stain dried very quickly.....this is what i did...i cut my wood..my sons applied the Thompson's ..I leveled and screwed the already dried wood pieces to fit...then I went back and applied some caulking in certain areas, and I will paint later on, haven't decided what color to use.
Awesome thanks so much, love the video by the way. 😃
Nicely done.
that was helpful, however why would anyone replace the steps with all that trash still there????
V.S.V.P_ SEAN so they don't fall in break a hip or something older people can die from falling but usually they don't die just being dirty.
I mean, but why not clean it while all that space is there, like you didn't have to do one or the other you could've cleaned it and then put the stairs in. He's just saying that itd be better to do both, not that you shouldnt repair the stairs at all cuz theres trash near it
He a carpenter or handyman! Either way he’s not there to clean trash. Yeah he could have been nice and did it but looks like the yard is messy period.
Why did you use SPF and not PT pine?
Helpful. THANK YOU!
Mine are cracked all the way so I day I need new ones... You got videos on how to replace
Good skills.
Well Done
I would have used some woodglue to increase the strength. And also I would have used pressure treated lumber, that yellow stuff cannot be treated and will not last as long.
How to contact you?
Looks easy,But I can't find anybody to do it, without charging alot..
Did you ever find anyone?
Do it yourself
You’ll know its safer and efficient if done by ones own self
Add another stringer in the center.
What kind of screws do you use for this?
Deck screws. Definitely not dry wall screws as those will rust and fail. 👍
Thanks!!
Wow
Work goes much faster and nicer with stodoys instructions.
work goes much faster with stodoys plans.