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What is the best lens for Bird Photography - Olympus 100-400mm Zoom or the 300mm F4 Prime lens ?
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- Опубліковано 27 гру 2021
- In this video I show images and videos taken at my hide location. I try out the Olympus 100-400mm F5/6.3 zoom, and compare it to my Olympus 300mm F4 prime lens. There are times when the zoom is the best option and other times when the prime is the best choice. I give my opinion of the merits of each lens. I also show how I use a mobile fence to obtain some good bird images.
Thanks Roger. Another nice, interesting and informative video. Wishing you continued success for 2022.
Cheers David. Thanks for the kind comments. I try to make them as informative as possible. All the best to you for 2022. Lets hope its better than 2021 !
Really helpful - thanks, Roger.
Thanks Andrew. Glad you found it helpful.
I got the 100-400mm, it's excellent. Not only is the zoom more flexible, it's also much more affordable! :)
Yes , its a good lens. I was using it today for photographing Great Crested Grebes.
I have both and use the 300mm f4 with the 1.4 TC and you cannot fault IQ
Thanks for sharing your experience. Your images are fantastic.
Thank you Stefan. Your comments are much appreciated.
Very helpful with many great ideas. Thanks
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Good one Roger. I was expecting to see comparisons between the two lenses. However, whenever I see
such demonstrations on UA-cam I struggle to see the difference the photographer is talking about. It is often hard to see a difference between lenses on a large monitor at high resolution, let alone a compressed YT film.
Thanks Mike. I decided to make it about the advantages of disadvantages of fixed focal length comapred to a zoom in a hide. There are lots of technical videos on the 100-400mm , so I tried to make this one different. I also want ed to include the `wooden fence `prop.
I watched this video with some trepidation because I already invested in the 300mm f4 just a few weeks ago! Though seeing as I got it with a mind to stalking deer in the woods, I probably won't regret it, given your evaluation.
The 300mm F4 is a great lens. You will not regret buying it. The only time it may be an issue is when you are in a hide and a bigger bird comes in that you cannot fit in the frame. For stalking Deer, the 300mm is the perfect lens. It`s also very good with the MC14 convereter.
Ooo comonn birds are everwhere :) thanks for sharing..
Glad you liked it.
Bit late to the party Roger… But yes I reallly enjoyed it. Both the video and your photos 👌
Thanks Peter. Glad you liked it , and thanks for commenting.
Thank you for the video! I see you are having a great time doing it!
Thanks for the kind comment.
I have the EM1X with 100-400mm lens. With IS set to 'auto' on the camera body and 'on' on the lens, you get three axis image stabilisation. Vertical and horizontal IS controlled by the lens, with rotation stabilised by the camera.
True, it's not the 'sync IS' which you get with the 12-100mm, 150-400mm and 300mm pro lenses, but it's still excellent and as you rightly point out, there is a significant cost saving. I am very comfortable hand holding this lens at 400mm.
Should also mention that I recently fine tuned the focusing (for C-AF) with the 100-400mm and was rather surprised by how far out it was.
The 100-400mm lens is very good, and for the price, its a great buy. I could not comment on the hand hold capabilities of the lens seeing that I only borrowed it for a couple of days. I was interested that you had to fine tune the focusing for C-AF ? I would not know how to do that ? Where did you lean to do that ?
@@rogerhance5883 YT removed my reply, probably due to a link. I sent it via your website contact form.
Great idea
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
That really was helpful and a great comparison - you took some super photos with both lenses. Wishing you a very Happy New Year, C
Thanks for the very kind comments Catherine. Best wishes to you for 2022.
Great upload Roger, and very informative. Looking at the results you achieved with the 100-400
even having it on a tripod make this lens a "real contender" particularly at the price point.
I think your "new set up" is looking good, I'm sure in the coming weeks when food becomes a
little harder to find, your visiting species will increase. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
and expertise. Phil.
Thanks for the kind comments. They are very much appreciated. The location does have a lot of potential, and I have many ideas for future videos from this location. The price of the 100-400mm lens is justunder £1100, so is amazing value for the price. I still cannot decide whether to buy it.
Great pictures. Thanks for the detailed explanations!
Thank you Stefano
Interesting to see your comparison of these lenses and see your hide setup - I like that movable fence idea. I have both these lenses but finding I am using the 300 f4 + MC-14 more often during these dull winter days for a walkabout lens on reserves. I carried both round Minsmere the other day but never used the 100-400 due to dull lighting conditions. I found the 100-400 to be great during spring and summer for walkabout shots of butterflies and insects with the ability to zoom and frame shots and also using focus stacking. For videos hand held I have found the 300 f4 to be better with the stabilisation of synch IS than the 100-400. The 100-400 is a great lens however if the budget is not enough for the 300 f4 and high ISOs not such a problem with the latest photo processing software like DXO.
Thanks for the kind comment about the video Bill. Glad you enjoyed it. I have now found a way of using two cameras in the hide without the need for a tripod, so will stick with the 300mm lens on one camera and the 40-150+1.4 on the other camera. This new set up will be part of the next video.
Really love your hide setup -- especially like the portable fence idea. You get some lovely bird images.
I do want to correct one comment you made about the stabilization with the 100-400mm. The lens IS does work in conjunction with the camera IBIS, but it does not work the same as 'Synch IS' on the 300mm f/4 Pro. With the 100-400mm the lens IS on and the camera IBIS also on, the lens handles 'pitch' and 'yaw' motion and the IBIS handles 'roll' motion. I read an article by Petr Bambousek where he stated that he found that he gets best stabilization results from using only the IBIS in his E-M1X -- he leaves the lens IS turned off. I have done some testing with my 1X and 100-400mm, and I have come to the same conclusion -- I get surprisingly good stabilization using only the camera IBIS.
Thanks for the kind comment about the hide set up and the mobile fence. To be honest, I only borrowed the 100-400 for a few days, so did not do a full test of the lens. The idea of the video was really to show the hide set up and the advantages of using a zoom over a prime when in a hide. I have not read the review you mentioned. I will look it up. I decided not to buy the 100-400 because I have found a way of using two cameras in the hide without the necessity of two tripods. I will show this set up in the next video.
Take 300F4.0 if you are happy with spending that much on a lens, otherwise make do with a 100-400. Reasons: more light, faster focussing, superb sync IS. All of which are essential to birding.
Agreed, but there are times, like when you are in a hide and when you cannot move, the zoom has the advantage. I agree that the 300mm F4 is a cracking lens.
Thanks Roger very useful information Happy New Year 😀
Thanks for the kind comment. Happy New Year Jim.
very good Roger ,I have the 100-400 , not give it a good workout yet as i mostly use th 40-150 + MC20 . Thanks for the review interesting .
Thanks for the kind comment Roger
Hello Roger, Another good video with excellent tips and practical advice. Not sure yet if you've made a video about your birdbath construction, but it looks like an old concrete mixing tray? Great idea 👍. I've also nicked the mobile fence construction. I'll be making one of those for my garden or allotment very soon! Oh and the lens comparisons - great advice cheers. I moved to M43 in January this year and have the 100/400 and the 40/150Pro + the 1.4TC for use on my EM1Mk3 and I love it, can carry it all day over the shoulder when out and about and no need for mono or tripod!
Hi Mal, Yes it is a cement mixing tray. How I did the edge is shown on my `reflection pool video`. Glad you liked the video and good luck making your own `fence` !
Another great video Roger👍
Thanks David. Much appreciated.
excellent video, thanks so much.
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Great stuff Roger. I had the 100-400 but sold it to finance the Nikon 200-500. I use the 300 f4 pro on my EM1X and love it. Like you, I still can't justify my dream lens, the 150-400
Thanks for the kind comment about the video. The 150-400mm is a dream lens. One day !
Great video, Roger. I love the gate idea. It would also perhaps give opportunities for pro capture judging from those Starlings!
Thanks for the kind comment Dave. The `fence idea` does work well, and with the number of Starlings coming in, it will be a good idea for a future Pro capture video.
Thanks Roger.
Cheers David. Glad you liked it.
Excepional video!
Thank you. Very much appreciated.
Thank you for this very interesting video!
Suggestion to increase the space in your hide I would build a solid possibility to mount more than one ball head (from tripods) next to each other. E.g. a metal tube or a "shelf" from left wall to the right. Or you mount a ballhead on a very heavy metal plate … so you wonˋt need a tripod and get more space for your knees in your hide 🙂 … I know the challange will be to get it solid enough 😉 … thankˋs and many greetings from Germany
Thanks for the kind comment about the video Arne. I did find a way around using two cameras in my hide by buying a manfrotto clamp , which I feature on another video. ua-cam.com/video/Hy6esg6DWxU/v-deo.html I show the clamp at 10.28 second into the video. Since these videos, I have actually made the hide larger, and it is now big enough to take three people. I also have a ground lebvel shooting opening, and I will be featuring this hide in a future video. Once agin, thanks for the kind comment.
Thanks for this great video. I currently use EM1x and am thinking to have this lens for BIF. Could you share your experiences to me? Thanks.
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for the kind comment. Which lens are you thinking off ? The 100-400 or the 300 ? I think they are both good, but for birds in flight I think the 300mm probably just has the edge.
The 100-400 does have “ partial “ sync IS between the lens and body
Hi! I have Panasonic lumix g9. Olympus 100-400mm or Panaleica 100-400mm which one should I prefer?
I have only used the Olympus 100-400, so cannot really comment on the Panasonic 100-400. Having said that, I know someone who has used both, and he thinks the Olympus lens is the best of the two. Hope that helps.
Super přednáška.
Thank you very much... 👌👍👍🙏🙏 Good Video... 👌👌🙌
Merry Christmas... 👋🙋 🌠🌠🎄🎄🎄🎄⛄⛄🎅👑👑👑🎁🎁💖💖💖
Thanks for the kind comments.
Good video Roger. As you know, I use the Panasonic/Leica 100-400 which is very similar to the Olympus zoom. The only thing I would add is that the zooms are capable of performing at much lower shutter speeds than many realise and users should experiment. I prefer to keep my ISO as low as possible(Max of 1600) and I'll shoot down to 100th sec handheld or lower for wildlife that's not moving about too much if the light dictates. I only use lens IS and don't consider my hands to be any more steady than the average. Maybe you could do a video for low speed hand held shots to illustrate that the 'shutterspeed should match the focal length rule' does not apply with modern camera's/Lens?
Hi Stephen. Thanks for the kind comment about the video. I think your idea of a video on how low you can hand hold a lens is a great idea. When I started, (using slide film) the golden rule was the shutter speed should not be lower than the focal lenght. With the IS on cameras being so good now, it will make a good topic for video. I have taken pictures hand held with the 12-40mm lens and still obtained sharp images at 2.5 seconds . P.S. I no longer post on facebook. I post on Instagram now at rogerhance1
I regularly get images shot on the 100-400 at ISO 6400 approved and sold on Shutterstock. You are losing money restricting yourself to ISO1600.Far easier to remove noise than to remove motion blur.
Have you tried using the 40-150 f2.8 with the MC 2 in this situation? I am wondering if it would be a good alternative to the 100-400?
The 40-150mm does work quite well with the 2x converter Dan. Still not quite the reach of the 400mm though.
Hi Roger,
If you don't mind the flexibility of a zoom (like me) and money isn't the issue, which one would you prefer? The 100-400 or the 300mm f4 (with perhaps the 1.4tc or is that softer than the 100-400 if compare the 100-400 vs the 300mm + 1.4tc?)?
Hope you can answer my questions as I'm a bit hesitating between the 100-400 and the 300mm (with maybe the 1.4tc, depends on your recommendations haha)!
Anyways, excellent video and images!
Cheers,
Levi.
Hi Levi, If flexibility is not an issue, then I would definately go for the 300mm, and also use the 1.4 converter with it. Having said that, having got used to using zooms, (a lot of photography I do is from hides) it would be difficult for me to go back to fixed focal lenght lenses. Have you considered the 150-600mm. Mike Lane has just made a video where he talks about it in comparrison to the 100-400mm and the 150-400mm. Are you in the UK ?
@@rogerhance5883 I've seen that video aswell. The 150-600 seems a bit too soft in my opinion, also it's quite heavy and large.
Not in the UK but in The Netherlands.
@@Levi-du5fy I have heard some people say the 150-600mm is soft at the 600mm end. I know of one Om System Ambassador thins that. Certainly the lens they loaded me was sharp at 600mm. The reason I asked if you were in the Uk is because I have a voucher code that will give you 10% discount, but I think it only works in the UK.
Roger, thanks for another informative video, can you tell me where you get the clear view scrim net from please? I've searched the internet and failed miserably.
Thanks for the kind comment Mike. Glad you found it helpful. Here is a link to where you can get it. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203531906610?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMIvuL54Zqk-gIVBuztCh2JJgu1EAQYCCABEgI6DvD_BwE
Great video. Thanks for sharing your opinions.
If you have to pick only one would it be?
I would use the 300mm if restricted to one camera. The fact the 300mm is a Pro lens and the faster F4 aperature are such and advantage. I have found a way of using two cameras in the hide now, so that will be part of a future video.
Great video, very interesting - I've just purchased the 100-400. Great images as well - do you turn image stabilisation off when shooting on the tripod? Best wishes.
Thanks for the kind comment. I think Olympus recommend that you do switch the IS off on a tripod. I think for landscapes were you set the camera up and dont move it, its probably best (although I have never bothered) With birds they are constantly moving around so you have to often move the lens slig to track/reframe them as they flit about. So I leave the IS on . Hope that helps.
Hideo Sunami : I am a Japanese bird photographer and also using Olympus system. Your video is very fantastic with almost a heaven bird watching location. The wild bird density is extraordinary high there. Please tell me where there is. What country?
Thanks for the kind comment about the video. The location is in Essex, in the United Kingdom.
@@rogerhance5883 Sorry to respond a little bit too late. Thanks a lot. I recognize that UK gave birth to bird watching itself. So many small birds are flying in your video. That kind of fantastic scene is so rare in Japan. I want to be there.
I usually walk with it and shoot on the go. Would you recommend shutter priority or aperture priority? If on shutter, what do you use as default (for custom mode)? 1/500?
I use Aperture Priority. Generally speaking I just put the ISO high enough to get 1/500th sec or more. If doing a bird in flight, you need a shutter speed of 1/3200th sec.
@@rogerhance5883 Thank you. So why don't you use shutter priority?
@@MorkusReX Aperature Priority is what I have always been used to. I could use shutter priority but using aperature priority allows me to control the depth of field. I shoot wide open most of the time.
I believe there is an update for this lens that makes it work with in body stabilisation.
I didnt know this. Thanks
Does anyone know if this is correct? I have not heard of firmware that allows the 100-400 to sync with the in body image stabilization.
@@zachandtomdad it’s not correct. I have to turn off the lens IS with the om1. Otherwise annoyingly they seem to clash and I can clearly see small jerking. Turning off the lens IS cures that problem. But I find it utterly stupid I have to do that with an Olympus body and lens.
@@simpedros4766 hmmm, I haven't tried turning off lens IS with the 100-400, not sure I've seen the small jerking you are referring to. I'll have to play around with disabling the lens IS. Thanks..
Thank you Roger. An interesting "best lens" comparison concentrating on real life, practical situations, good stuff. You've also got me thinking about building the portable fence - can you suggest what I can use for the spikes and where these come from in the UK? (The one thing I cannot construct though is the space required for a distant background in our garden but hey ho - got some thoughts on that from one of your earlier videos).
Thanks for the kind comment Alan. I wanted the comparison to be a `real life` comparison rather than a technical comparison. There are a few of those on the internet anyway. The `spikes` are just very long nails (150mm) . I am going to be making a video on a painted background in the future. You basically need a sheet of 8ft x 4ft ply for this.
Long nails .... of course! That's me overthinking the engineering (again)! It is a painted sheet of wood that I have been thinking about for a while - thanks again.
Great video! I recently bought om1 with 100-400 :). Like the combo. However mine is not firmly fit info camera mount. There is a Little bit of movement. I called olympus and they said it ok. Whats your experience in this master?
Hi, Thanks for the kind comment. This is normal with this lens. It worried me a bit at first, but this very slight `play on the mount` is normal, so dont worry. It certainly does not affect the performance or the quality of the pictures that you can obtain with that lens. Enjoy !
@@rogerhance5883 thank you very much for the answer :)
A bit of rotation is not a problem. If it locks in there won't be any lateral motion which would certainly be bad.
Thanks so much for all that you've offered on this video. I use the 300mm along with 1.4 as well. I've considered using my 40-150 with the 1.4 converter to determine how I like that shot in comparison to the very sharp 300mm. Is it possible you've already done this? If so, what were your results? Thanks again for the very helpful and informative video!
Thanks for the kind comment about the video . I am glad you liked it. I do use the 40-150mm with the 1.4 converter, and I have used it quite considerably in some of my other UA-cam video. Its a very sharp combination, and I can see very little, if any, difference between images taken with that lens/converter combination and shot takne with the straight 300mm.
@@rogerhance5883 I just found your site and look forward to perusing all the offerings with the intent of improving my imagery from the very beginning, I love the hidden bird stand as well as the fence row for bird buffet. Great ideas. Thanks again!
@@MrFirstdance2000 Glad you like the videos. Dont forget to subscribe to be notified of future uploads. I will have a new video for uploading come the weekend.
The 40-150 F2.8 pro with the 1.4 is sharp. I've used it and the 300. I plan to buy this lens now as well. Each has a distinctive place.
Hi Roger, I have just found your channel and in particular this video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. I have just received my 100-400mm and I am so excited to use it. I have one question for you. Do you ever consider using flash when you take pictures in the environemnt described in this video? I would imagine a flash would be an advantage. What do you think? I have just subscribed to your channel as I found it very useful.
Glad you liked the video. I do not use flash for this, but if I did, I would only be using the flash as a `fill in` to brighten up shots on dull days. If you have the flash set at too powerfull a setting, it will illuminate the bird but the background will go dark, whcih can look unatural. So best to only use it as `fill in` . Hope this helps.
@@rogerhance5883 Hi Roger, thanks fo your prompt reply. I was thinking of using flash to freeze the action. You can set the aperture to reflect the background if you wish to. The same way a portrait photographer uses the flash and includes the background environment. this way, you don't have to go that high of ISO number.
I have e m10 mark2 . And i have 43 lenses 70 300 lens, sigma 50 500 ex and adapter(43 to m43) . But they are very slow motion. I wonder 100 400. 1. How useful 100 400 and e m10 mark2
2. I like video capture. How focus speed 100 400 at video records
The 100-400mm lens is very good. The EM10 mkII is a good camera but you will find that the newer Olympus cameras will focus a lot faster and produce better results. The EM1mkIII is a very good price at the moment. Couple that with the 100-400 and you have a very capably system.