No surrender, no retreat! If in doubt. Nick someone else’s design or contraption. Like adjustable kayak foot rest mechanisms. Or tool chest draw runners. Or the lightest seat runners you can find in the scrap yard. Good luck and god speed gents!
This is why i love this channel❤ it's not only about the end result, it's just as much or even more about the lessons along the way. Problem solving made fun and interesting. Keep up the good work
Guys…as clever as the sliding pedals are, I think the first time you drive the car with wet and/or dirty shoes all that water and grit will drop down and get in those tight tolerances and muck up the sliding! At a minimum I’d drop the pin retention idea and use 4 simple mechanical fasteners (R & LHS, fore and aft). Yes you would have to duck under the dash to remove and adjust but fasteners could allow you to open up your tolerances on the sliders to allow for road crud yet still firmly lock the pedal cluster in place. Regardless, I really enjoy the build and watching you guys work! 😀👍👍
16:21 you should shanfer the edges of the pin into a cone, basically when you get over the halfway point it'll automatically align to the hole snapping in also some lube for the hole will help, something like lithium grease to really impregnate the plastic or even better still over bore the holes & press in some oil impregnated bronze bushes since a major issue i see happening is the holes in plastic wearing away prematurely causing the part to fail because the plastic is softer than the steel pins it'll wear them down causing more & more slop in the mechanism with bronze inserts especially if you make them threaded you can easily replace them in the future.
You could've also put a retracting crank wheel in-between. Put a disk on an axle in the center and a couple connecting rods to the pins. Put a mount for the cable onto one of the crank pins and pull from 90 degrees out.
I know that I have suggested this to you before but, a top hinged pedal box with support built into the chassis framework would have been easier to fabricate, adjust and provide easier hydraulic line installation/servicing. Is it now time to say O.K. let us have a rethink, just put it down to project development. You will get your solution in the end, keep calm and carry on with the good work.
These things happen, we all do it in engineering. I did post last week on what I would have pursued and it was similar to the centre pull. Coming from a toggle press mfg background I was thinking an over centre pull toggle linkage.
My thought was that you'd use a "T" pattern link with the pivot at top center. The top ends of the T go to their respective pin and the bottom of the T is where the hand operated cable routes. You can add some length to create a longer lever to reduce effort. Just a thought out of many. :)
Could you mount the outside of the sheath to one pin and the inner cable to the other? It would retract both pins. Likely, the pins would need a stop, so both retract equally for the stroke.
You haven’t failed until you give up. Simplest solution I can think of, if the pedal box doesn’t rack from side to side then you only need one pin on one side. Good luck 🤞
You should add an electric worm screw to move the pedal assembly back n forth 😉 that way it will not require locking pins + you can have a hidden or on show switch . Ps top build guys 👍
Adding electricity (especially higher voltage and amperage as these would require) does not simplicity make. Cost reduction and greater failure rate, yes.
Idk mate. It’s a cable, pulley & latch. I’d argue that introducing solenoids for this purpose is adding complexity, weight and reduced safety. The real KISS solution would be location holes along the sliders and two pins. Just manually pull the pins and set the pedal distance before you set off.
Find a girt big spring , from yer West Country , and chamfer the heck of the pins' entry end , maybe some silicon grease on the sliding block faces ( silicon grease may help slightly between dissimilar metals as it is non conducting , just a thought ) ! I assume the pedal box will be sprung to push it rearward ? 🦟🦟👀
The pin motion will always depend on the friction of the opposite pin. It has been said below: either run 2 independent cables for each pin with a master handle that pulls them both or create a mechanical linkage that will move both pins (a rotary system like a E-type V12 throttle linkage for example?)
Have yiy concidered using an electric actuator as used on rear hatches or even door locks? I bought a cheap as chips one from ebay and it has no problem unlatching the rear hatch lock on my project Mini Marcos, light too👍
100% but there are a lot of things that are just way over engineered and will cause problems down the road. It’s a good concept but building it to be a finished project from the start is a problem. This is what happens when an engineer is also the builder. Amazing work and concepts but it’s more of an over engineered go cart than a practical build. If you look at certain things like the shifter where everything was in the way of each other toy can see that nothing was built with maintenance in mind.
Look a bell crank similar to model aircraft . 3 point bellcrank t shaped . Push and pull from opposite ends and pull from cable to the side . Hard to explain .
Have you considered running the cable into the center brace, then have it split off into a Y, where each leg of the Y goes around a small pulley, then into each side pin? That would take the lateral stress off of each locking pin and make for a smoother operation. Great job on Mosquito, BTW. Keep up the good work.
Been away and, for that, I am so sorry. AWESOME CONTENT!! NEVER A FAILURE TIL YOU QUIT!! "YOUR videos have inspired me, and after , at 10yrs, I purchase a 1949 Ford Shoebox." (I know not the MOSQUITO)ANXIOUSLY awaiting your next video!! THANK YOU!!!🦟🦟🦟🦟
Have you guys thought about a worm screw arrangement for your adjustable pedal box ? Either electrically driven , or more suited to you , a wee manual wheel or knob of some sort .
Puff puff Pass ... Rinse n Repeat ... In boxing everyone has a plan until they get hit a few times and then it's down to the training... Walk away an start fresh !!!
I would simplify the cable linkage further, would have a side entry cable by fixing the outer sleeve to one pin and the inner cable to the other, this will allow the two pins to pull against each other and use less weight/parts/engineering to get a straight pull on the pins. The leadscrew idea mentioned is a good option if you want to lose the pin idea and have far more adjustment of the pedal box, I wouldn’t use a motor though as extra engineering and weight required to operate it, simply use a leadscrew with a half round quick release nut like an engineers vice, plus a small handle for fine adjustment. Anyway, good build series and content, keep it up.👍
I would switch from wire to string. A 3 mm polyester string would be plenty strong and much more forgiving in sharp bends and friction. It is also lighter 😊 One hole in each pin, a string in a closed loop between them and then pull on one of the strings in the middle. 🦟
Loved the video and the problem solving going on. From a design perspective ive think you have a few issues here. First off because you have two pins to pull there can be no misalignment of the components, and unfortunately because you havent milled and faced anything due to lack of kit id assume you cant be sure its all flat and true to the degree needed. Therefore you have a few options. 1: increase the clearances on the pins and the holes and chamfer the end of the pins and the holes which will give it an easier time going in. 2: remove one spring pin assembly. Looking at how stout it install built one pin would do the job fine. Its not like you will twist the pedal body enough to pop the pin free. 3: everything needs to slide freely. Every contact point you add increases the friction you are fighting against. The other issue is youre whole assembly is very square. Normally you want a sliding assembly longer than wide because it helps keep everything al parallel. I hope this helps. I hope you guys dont take it as criticism either its just an outside perspective.
Last year I restored an old French road bike from the 80s that had the same problem. After trying pretty much every mechanical way of pulling it out, I ended up burning through aluminum with caustic soda (pipe cleaner).
A few points that occurred to me after watching: 1. It's going to be sprung in the end, right? So springs will be pushing it towards the driver when unlocked and without resistance from the driver pushing them away? This force alone will help the pins to line up and find their "homes"... you just haven't reached that stage yet. I really do think it'll help. 2. Have you considered DIY anodizing for the aluminium parts? Not much investment is required, and with a cooling system/chiller you can achieve extremely durable Type III finishes (typically found with black dyes but I prefer the natural, kind of gold/bronze tint that occurs without). This might well help with the dissimilar metal reactions and make the aluminium surfaces MUCH more durable/resistant to galling from the pins. Just remember to slightly oversize everything like holes/threads since the anodizing builds up a surface layer of several thousandths. Would be worth it to run some test pieces beforehand with threaded holes etc. to experiment and find the right combination. Any time you "fail" you are just realizing a way not to do it. Slowly eliminating incorrect options/ideas is STILL progress...IE "one thousand ways to not make a lightbulb". Keep up the great work and thank you for your videos!
What about putting the outer cable mount on one pin. And the inner cable connects to the other pin. That way you have a straight pull from the side. Hopefully there’s enough room for the cable to route to where you want tommount the handle. Also put a lead in on the holes so the pins can locate easier
Making the conical will make it easier to overecome spring tension if you push on the bedals and being conical they will cam out as the pedal box slides
You may already have dismissed this for weight or complexity reasons, but would it be worth replacing the plastic runners and base with a ball bearing system? While the plastic is low friction in theory, I wonder if there are enough surfaces in contact, and enough give in the material, that unless you had a lot more clearance (potentially wobbly or even more difficult to move) it'll always be too stiff? Ball bearings should be lower friction and be much happier with tolerances tight enough that nothing should rattle or move, but free enough the pedal box would scoot about freely when you needed to adjust it.
And how to make it over engineered would it be possible to use a brake wheel cylinder and have the left side pulling the right pin and the right side pulling the left just thinking about how much leverage you will need to release the pins if they stick you could use e.g a motorbike clutch lever at the other end
More fine tuning needed in my mind i would have used some rods used an electrical seats for fore and aft movement, but its heavy, and the space could be a problem
Curious as to where the pedal box will mount, under dash or on floor and where master cylinder and fluid reservoirs will mount and be accessible. It seems that if its floor mounted then the cylinders are going to be under foot and reservoir obviously will be remote but hoses and lines will be under foot also. Dash mount would alleviate that. The only thing that would have to be redesigned is gas and clutch pedal position
I feel like a degree of taper on the hole and pins would be an easy solution here, but I'm not 100% sure how much that will impact retention capacity. I know any slope will want to come out under pressure, but with as much engagement as you're getting, I think a degree should be negligible but I'd need to test that theory before being certain. Also, failure is to be embraced and learned from, by which we transform a negativity into a stone in the pavement of our road to where we're going.
why don't use copy the sliders on the bottom of a car seat chair. That might solve your issue. so you can pull both pins at the same time, still keeping your idea because it's a really good idea..
I'm no expert, but wouldn't two curved wires (think Atari symbol) joined into a twisted pair work? They'd probably need [part of] a curved hollow tube to act as a guide. Some stiff plastic, maybe? 😁👍🦟
why not make a worm gear and electronic actuator like modern cars with adjustable pedals? you wouldn't need any kind of lock pins, or need to reach down and move the pedal box manually, just toggle a switch!
Why not ditch the pin and hole/spring loaded idea for a stepless system with a threaded bar on each side? A small electric motor to drive the pedal box back and forth with the simple flic of a switch. Nice and simple.
17:15 - actual point where we find out how it failed. I assume the next video will give actual details of the problem and go from there. As it stands the title of this video is a bit click-bate-y due to us living through it with you yet also waiting for a pay off that never comes. A better title might have been "we carry on with the pedals... ", then let the failure be a surprise. I only say this because you don't actually go into detail on how it failed here. I know you like to give the full real life linear telling of your struggle, but the title brings expectations and questions that are not addressed one bit. So the entire video (because of the title giving away the "surprise") feels like a bit of a rip-off. Still watching... but...
Nobody wants my opinion but I'll give it anyway. 😂🎉 The whole system looks too heavy and over built-- adjustment will be required so seldom that it's grotesquely overkill.
“You can have all the knowledge and all the tools”. What the hell are you talking about? You dont have the right tools at all lol or the machining knowledge. 😂
Why not set it up like a linear-pull brake? Block in one, tip in the other. It will be mechanically simpler than the center-pull, more compact, and should have less friction as well. It will also apply force in a more axial way, preventing the side-loading forces that are making the system harder to operate. If anything, you can use the noodle and quick-release directly from a production road bike brake. Then put the brake lever under the seat, right where a seat rail lever would be, as it serves the exact same function (adjust for leg length). 🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟
You didnt fail, you just need to regroup. You can easily solve this niggle ❤ Anyway, your first idea wasnt great fir a car. This are does get DIIIRTYYY !!
I was pretty close with my guess on the cable and it's good to hear all the 🦟's helped, as for the "FAILED" status well we all watched a video on you having a go so that's a success as far as I can tell. I'm sure you will crack on with another great attempt next week.
🦟 Well chaps it is wonderful to see your thought process. still love love love the channel. Remember a Winner never Quits, sometimes a slight fail brings the very best solution .🦟🦟🦟
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
No surrender, no retreat!
If in doubt. Nick someone else’s design or contraption. Like adjustable kayak foot rest mechanisms. Or tool chest draw runners. Or the lightest seat runners you can find in the scrap yard. Good luck and god speed gents!
This is why i love this channel❤ it's not only about the end result, it's just as much or even more about the lessons along the way. Problem solving made fun and interesting. Keep up the good work
Even failure is entertaining... Thanks Guys!🦟🦟🦟🦟
Guys…as clever as the sliding pedals are, I think the first time you drive the car with wet and/or dirty shoes all that water and grit will drop down and get in those tight tolerances and muck up the sliding! At a minimum I’d drop the pin retention idea and use 4 simple mechanical fasteners (R & LHS, fore and aft). Yes you would have to duck under the dash to remove and adjust but fasteners could allow you to open up your tolerances on the sliders to allow for road crud yet still firmly lock the pedal cluster in place. Regardless, I really enjoy the build and watching you guys work! 😀👍👍
16:21 you should shanfer the edges of the pin into a cone, basically when you get over the halfway point it'll automatically align to the hole snapping in also some lube for the hole will help, something like lithium grease to really impregnate the plastic or even better still over bore the holes & press in some oil impregnated bronze bushes since a major issue i see happening is the holes in plastic wearing away prematurely causing the part to fail because the plastic is softer than the steel pins it'll wear them down causing more & more slop in the mechanism with bronze inserts especially if you make them threaded you can easily replace them in the future.
You could've also put a retracting crank wheel in-between. Put a disk on an axle in the center and a couple connecting rods to the pins. Put a mount for the cable onto one of the crank pins and pull from 90 degrees out.
Look at the mechanism on a roll up garage door that has the locking rods that stick out of both sides... Now attach a cable to the handle.
Love the build keep buzzing chaps! 🦟
Great to see someone not afraid yo post a fail. I'm sure the solution will hit you probably at 2am like it does me.
Good vid. Looking forward to the rest of the build.
? Can you countersink the holes where the pins go in to the runners so they locate easier or chamfer the end of the pins or both just a thought
I know that I have suggested this to you before but, a top hinged pedal box with support built into the chassis framework would have been easier to fabricate, adjust and provide easier hydraulic line installation/servicing. Is it now time to say O.K. let us have a rethink, just put it down to project development. You will get your solution in the end, keep calm and carry on with the good work.
These things happen, we all do it in engineering. I did post last week on what I would have pursued and it was similar to the centre pull. Coming from a toggle press mfg background I was thinking an over centre pull toggle linkage.
You haven’t failed, you have created an opportunity 👍😊
Keep up the good work!
My thought was that you'd use a "T" pattern link with the pivot at top center. The top ends of the T go to their respective pin and the bottom of the T is where the hand operated cable routes. You can add some length to create a longer lever to reduce effort. Just a thought out of many. :)
My friend, you never fail until you stop trying remember that think about it as a learning experience
Could you mount the outside of the sheath to one pin and the inner cable to the other? It would retract both pins. Likely, the pins would need a stop, so both retract equally for the stroke.
Funny enough, that was my first thought ho you will manage to synchronize both to move at the same time 😂
You haven’t failed until you give up. Simplest solution I can think of, if the pedal box doesn’t rack from side to side then you only need one pin on one side. Good luck 🤞
You should add an electric worm screw to move the pedal assembly back n forth 😉 that way it will not require locking pins + you can have a hidden or on show switch . Ps top build guys 👍
Solenoid switches. Way better idea. Easy, cheap and reliable. KISS
Adding electricity (especially higher voltage and amperage as these would require) does not simplicity make. Cost reduction and greater failure rate, yes.
And then you are screwed when you kick a wire off of a solenoid or have one break anywhere in the circuit.
Idk mate. It’s a cable, pulley & latch.
I’d argue that introducing solenoids for this purpose is adding complexity, weight and reduced safety.
The real KISS solution would be location holes along the sliders and two pins. Just manually pull the pins and set the pedal distance before you set off.
It's not really a failure, just part of the process towards getting it to work.
Find a girt big spring , from yer West Country , and chamfer the heck of the pins' entry end , maybe some silicon grease on the sliding block faces ( silicon grease may help slightly between dissimilar metals as it is non conducting , just a thought ) ! I assume the pedal box will be sprung to push it rearward ? 🦟🦟👀
three letters "DBW"
I converted my mid 90's Yamaha to EFI and DBW. it's great!
Great stuff
The pin motion will always depend on the friction of the opposite pin. It has been said below: either run 2 independent cables for each pin with a master handle that pulls them both or create a mechanical linkage that will move both pins (a rotary system like a E-type V12 throttle linkage for example?)
Have yiy concidered using an electric actuator as used on rear hatches or even door locks? I bought a cheap as chips one from ebay and it has no problem unlatching the rear hatch lock on my project Mini Marcos, light too👍
you haven't failed until you quit.
thats a fact of life and they didnt fail that badly yet
100% but there are a lot of things that are just way over engineered and will cause problems down the road. It’s a good concept but building it to be a finished project from the start is a problem. This is what happens when an engineer is also the builder. Amazing work and concepts but it’s more of an over engineered go cart than a practical build. If you look at certain things like the shifter where everything was in the way of each other toy can see that nothing was built with maintenance in mind.
Bloody good statement
Nothing beats a failure but a try, the limit is the sky so hold your heads high
I agree it's hard to keep Yorkshire man down
Look a bell crank similar to model aircraft . 3 point bellcrank t shaped . Push and pull from opposite ends and pull from cable to the side . Hard to explain .
Thanks for the content _ I'll surely send you a link of my project in the near future you've inspired me a lot.
Have you considered running the cable into the center brace, then have it split off into a Y, where each leg of the Y goes around a small pulley, then into each side pin? That would take the lateral stress off of each locking pin and make for a smoother operation.
Great job on Mosquito, BTW. Keep up the good work.
It's funny that something as simple as telling people to put an emoji in the comments can help a video out so much. Keep up the good work. 🦟
I would think if you have a 10mm pin you might want an 11mm hole with a slight countersink and learn to live with the 1/2 mm play lol...🦟
Been away and, for that, I am so sorry. AWESOME CONTENT!! NEVER A FAILURE TIL YOU QUIT!! "YOUR videos have inspired me, and after , at 10yrs, I purchase a 1949 Ford Shoebox." (I know not the MOSQUITO)ANXIOUSLY awaiting your next video!! THANK YOU!!!🦟🦟🦟🦟
The easiest solution will be to get a taller girlfriend… but she’s so nice….
Platform driving shoes. :D
Have you guys thought about a worm screw arrangement for your adjustable pedal box ? Either electrically driven , or more suited to you , a wee manual wheel or knob of some sort .
Puff puff Pass ...
Rinse n Repeat ...
In boxing everyone has a plan until they get hit a few times and then it's down to the training...
Walk away an start fresh !!!
I would simplify the cable linkage further, would have a side entry cable by fixing the outer sleeve to one pin and the inner cable to the other, this will allow the two pins to pull against each other and use less weight/parts/engineering to get a straight pull on the pins. The leadscrew idea mentioned is a good option if you want to lose the pin idea and have far more adjustment of the pedal box, I wouldn’t use a motor though as extra engineering and weight required to operate it, simply use a leadscrew with a half round quick release nut like an engineers vice, plus a small handle for fine adjustment. Anyway, good build series and content, keep it up.👍
I would switch from wire to string. A 3 mm polyester string would be plenty strong and much more forgiving in sharp bends and friction. It is also lighter 😊
One hole in each pin, a string in a closed loop between them and then pull on one of the strings in the middle.
🦟
Loved the video and the problem solving going on.
From a design perspective ive think you have a few issues here.
First off because you have two pins to pull there can be no misalignment of the components, and unfortunately because you havent milled and faced anything due to lack of kit id assume you cant be sure its all flat and true to the degree needed. Therefore you have a few options.
1: increase the clearances on the pins and the holes and chamfer the end of the pins and the holes which will give it an easier time going in.
2: remove one spring pin assembly. Looking at how stout it install built one pin would do the job fine. Its not like you will twist the pedal body enough to pop the pin free.
3: everything needs to slide freely. Every contact point you add increases the friction you are fighting against. The other issue is youre whole assembly is very square. Normally you want a sliding assembly longer than wide because it helps keep everything al parallel.
I hope this helps. I hope you guys dont take it as criticism either its just an outside perspective.
Ah yes good old Vilfredo Pareto. You will get there. I just know it.
Talking of aluminium welding itself to steel, I have a lovely 90s 653 Mercian Pro-lugless frame with an immovable stem if anyone wants to have a go...
Last year I restored an old French road bike from the 80s that had the same problem. After trying pretty much every mechanical way of pulling it out, I ended up burning through aluminum with caustic soda (pipe cleaner).
try very hot oil the aluminium and steel will expand at different rates. it works a treat for stuck pistons
A few points that occurred to me after watching:
1. It's going to be sprung in the end, right? So springs will be pushing it towards the driver when unlocked and without resistance from the driver pushing them away? This force alone will help the pins to line up and find their "homes"... you just haven't reached that stage yet. I really do think it'll help.
2. Have you considered DIY anodizing for the aluminium parts? Not much investment is required, and with a cooling system/chiller you can achieve extremely durable Type III finishes (typically found with black dyes but I prefer the natural, kind of gold/bronze tint that occurs without). This might well help with the dissimilar metal reactions and make the aluminium surfaces MUCH more durable/resistant to galling from the pins. Just remember to slightly oversize everything like holes/threads since the anodizing builds up a surface layer of several thousandths. Would be worth it to run some test pieces beforehand with threaded holes etc. to experiment and find the right combination.
Any time you "fail" you are just realizing a way not to do it. Slowly eliminating incorrect options/ideas is STILL progress...IE "one thousand ways to not make a lightbulb". Keep up the great work and thank you for your videos!
What about putting the outer cable mount on one pin. And the inner cable connects to the other pin. That way you have a straight pull from the side. Hopefully there’s enough room for the cable to route to where you want tommount the handle. Also put a lead in on the holes so the pins can locate easier
Make the locking pinns like cones it will help take upp the slack in the Hole
Making the conical will make it easier to overecome spring tension if you push on the bedals and being conical they will cam out as the pedal box slides
Love your content. Maybe add 2 pulleys/guides so the cables pull on the pins straight out. Looks like massive bind pulling at an angle. 🦟🦟🦟
You may already have dismissed this for weight or complexity reasons, but would it be worth replacing the plastic runners and base with a ball bearing system?
While the plastic is low friction in theory, I wonder if there are enough surfaces in contact, and enough give in the material, that unless you had a lot more clearance (potentially wobbly or even more difficult to move) it'll always be too stiff? Ball bearings should be lower friction and be much happier with tolerances tight enough that nothing should rattle or move, but free enough the pedal box would scoot about freely when you needed to adjust it.
Simply taper the pins slightly so that the pins will help align the pedals
Failing is part of life I'm sure you guys will be able to do it work with some design 🦟
That is a work of art Gents. Carry on !
Interested to know where your feet will sit with cylinders and brake pipes in the way ?
All hidden under a plate
And how to make it over engineered would it be possible to use a brake wheel cylinder and have the left side pulling the right pin and the right side pulling the left just thinking about how much leverage you will need to release the pins if they stick you could use e.g a motorbike clutch lever at the other end
What about a slow taper on the pins, they can then enter easier but settle home to secure fully?
Sorry not sorry for the swarm of the mozzy bites 😂
More fine tuning needed in my mind i would have used some rods used an electrical seats for fore and aft movement, but its heavy, and the space could be a problem
🦟 Try the concept of using the brake tang of an bike, instead of pushing brake pads, make it pull the pins out.
make pegs with finger loops, __O ↔ O__ . so you can use only two fingers to release the lock.🙂
Curious as to where the pedal box will mount, under dash or on floor and where master cylinder and fluid reservoirs will mount and be accessible. It seems that if its floor mounted then the cylinders are going to be under foot and reservoir obviously will be remote but hoses and lines will be under foot also. Dash mount would alleviate that. The only thing that would have to be redesigned is gas and clutch pedal position
🎉
I feel like a degree of taper on the hole and pins would be an easy solution here, but I'm not 100% sure how much that will impact retention capacity. I know any slope will want to come out under pressure, but with as much engagement as you're getting, I think a degree should be negligible but I'd need to test that theory before being certain.
Also, failure is to be embraced and learned from, by which we transform a negativity into a stone in the pavement of our road to where we're going.
Look at the way you adjust the rudder pedals on a ww2 fight plane
outer connected to one pin centre to the other pin.
Why not an electric motor and a worm gear to move back and forward. and the worm drive would automatically lock it place
why don't use copy the sliders on the bottom of a car seat chair. That might solve your issue. so you can pull both pins at the same time, still keeping your idea because it's a really good idea..
hi have you taken the citreon dyane off your playlist thanks john
yes but if you give me a shout in the Facebook group im happy to help if I can
Just a small sidenote, but do the French doors to your work shop have frosted glass? seems a shame not seeing those wonderful views 🙂
Stepper motor and lead screw from a 3d printer
I'm no expert, but wouldn't two curved wires (think Atari symbol) joined into a twisted pair work? They'd probably need [part of] a curved hollow tube to act as a guide. Some stiff plastic, maybe? 😁👍🦟
why not make a worm gear and electronic actuator like modern cars with adjustable pedals? you wouldn't need any kind of lock pins, or need to reach down and move the pedal box manually, just toggle a switch!
use one locking pin instead of two.
Trist weekends em🐔
Why not use some waisted pins so they locate themselves !
You didn’t fail, you learned how not to do it.
Why not ditch the pin and hole/spring loaded idea for a stepless system with a threaded bar on each side? A small electric motor to drive the pedal box back and forth with the simple flic of a switch. Nice and simple.
Wow, brilliant idea! I imagine a power seat base could be a parts source, just made smaller!
Power seat base! That’s amazing - why didn’t I think of that? Well I kind of did, but I didn’t realise it. Haha!
17:15 - actual point where we find out how it failed. I assume the next video will give actual details of the problem and go from there.
As it stands the title of this video is a bit click-bate-y due to us living through it with you yet also waiting for a pay off that never comes.
A better title might have been "we carry on with the pedals... ", then let the failure be a surprise. I only say this because you don't actually go into detail on how it failed here.
I know you like to give the full real life linear telling of your struggle, but the title brings expectations and questions that are not addressed one bit. So the entire video (because of the title giving away the "surprise") feels like a bit of a rip-off.
Still watching... but...
👍✌🤟
Nobody wants my opinion but I'll give it anyway. 😂🎉 The whole system looks too heavy and over built-- adjustment will be required so seldom that it's grotesquely overkill.
🦟
Over engineered much.
You could have got a single into double cable as seen in many 2 stroke motorcycles with separate oil pumps. You're welcome
“You can have all the knowledge and all the tools”.
What the hell are you talking about? You dont have the right tools at all lol or the machining knowledge.
😂
Why not set it up like a linear-pull brake? Block in one, tip in the other. It will be mechanically simpler than the center-pull, more compact, and should have less friction as well. It will also apply force in a more axial way, preventing the side-loading forces that are making the system harder to operate. If anything, you can use the noodle and quick-release directly from a production road bike brake. Then put the brake lever under the seat, right where a seat rail lever would be, as it serves the exact same function (adjust for leg length).
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You didnt fail, you just need to regroup. You can easily solve this niggle ❤
Anyway, your first idea wasnt great fir a car. This are does get DIIIRTYYY !!
I was pretty close with my guess on the cable and it's good to hear all the 🦟's helped, as for the "FAILED" status well we all watched a video on you having a go so that's a success as far as I can tell. I'm sure you will crack on with another great attempt next week.
🦟 Well chaps it is wonderful to see your thought process. still love love love the channel. Remember a Winner never Quits, sometimes a slight fail brings the very best solution .🦟🦟🦟
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