@@miguellugo3543 Thanks for watching. It is unlikely for the hot surface indicator light to stay on if none of the limiter switches were closed at room temperature. By any chance is it the power indicator light for the burners? That could be a problem with the heat switches rather than the elements themselves: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
I came to your youtube channel to troubleshoot my water heater and I fell down a rabbit hole. Great videos. My wife will be happy to finally get that surface light turned off... as long as I fix the water heater first.
Thank you, we're just happy to help! We're currently filming a series on refrigerator repairs which will be as detailed as this series, so this rabbit hole will be getting a little deeper in a few months!
Great video and very clear instructions. Instead of paying for a technician come out, I was able to do the diagnosis and repair myself. This really saved a lot of money. Thank you!
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info! We try to make all of our videos as clear and as informative as this, and we followed the same format with our recent refrigerator series: ua-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxXf2GEiSiunxAlN3ENxXGq.html
Professionally done instructional video. Hat tip, for sure! Came here to learn how to replace my right 9" element. Learned about the indicator light, too. Can't thank you enough for explaining this so thoroughly. Will post again after I order the parts and the project is done. Thank you so much!
Thank you for watching, we're just happy to share some good info! Yes please follow up after the repairs are done, we're always curious to hear how it all goes!
@@AmreSupply It went perfectly! Had some stubborn retaining clips that put up a struggle but that was it. You saved us a lot of money. Thank you so much!! Liked and subscribed.
Very thorough and informative video. Was hoping the switch could be changed independently of the element. AMRE is my go to when I need replacement parts. Thanks for the help
Thank you, we're just happy to help! We wanted to find a good visual style for these wiring diagrams that just wasn't a dense black and white symbol based one like the wiring diagrams on the tech sheets.
Thank you! We try to make all of our videos as clear and well organized as this. You'll find our new Refrigerator series is done in a very similar style: ua-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxXf2GEiSiunxAlN3ENxXGq.html
Extraordinarily clear video, really should be used as an example of the best of instructional videos. I haven't yet tried to fix my cooktop, but this shows me how!
Thank you Justin, we're just happy to help! We've found a format and a style that works and we're busy filming a series on refrigerator repairs as well! Cheers!
Excellent video. Even though the heating element wasn't working, I wanted to verify with a meter to confirmed it was bad which it was. I lucked out with my stove it didn't have a mounting bracket for the heating elements they were held in place with spring clips. So just prop cook top like a car hood and get to.
Hello. I need your help. I do have a problem with a Samsung range. I followed the procedure several times exactly as you described it. Every time I tested whole the elements' limiter (terminals 1B and 2B) the dial didn't show anything, just as it appears in the video in time 5:45. So, the indicator switches are Ok, but when I turn the range ON, the hot surface light remains ON. For an instance I thought my tester was wrong, so I got another one, and the results were the same. What do you think it would be? Thanks.
Thanks for watching. This can take more work to narrow down but you could do an elimination to see if there is still a problem with one of the limiters. The limiter could be sticking or intermittently giving issues which can sometimes not show up on a continuity test. You could try unplugging one limiter on one of the burners (just make sure the open ends are insulated / isolated and not touching anything). You can wrap them individually in electrical tape to isolate them. Then turn the range back on. If the light stays on, reconnect that burner and disconnect the next one and try again until you narrow it down. If disconnecting it didn't help isolate it then it's possible that there's a short somewhere in the system. You can test the wires that lead into the indicator light for continuity. As well you could try testing for a short following the steps here: ua-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/v-deo.html
My GE Glass Stove Top element has a hot light indicator for each element. I know exactly which limiter is the culprit without needing to test. That said, the stove top works fine. Is there any need to get this replaced other than to stop the hot light indicator from showing?
Thanks for watching. Since the light is on a separate circuit than the burner, the stove will still work. If the heat switch is working properly then the burner will shut off and cool when turned off. So in this case, there is still full functionality even with a hot surface light that stays on.
I've experienced this occasionally with our Whirlpool range and I think sometimes leaving a pan on a warm burner may cause it to happen. I used to go down the basement and switch the circuit breaker off and back on again to clear it but then you might have to reset the clock, so now I just turn the burner back on fully for about 30-60 seconds and shut it back down and the light always clears once the burner cools back down in about 5 minutes, if it gets annoying to the point of happening all the time I'll do your fix, thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching. It seems that one of the limit switches might be sticking. The metal contacts inside of those switches can warp over time or become fatigued. Still if the problem is continuing to happen then you can definitely narrow it down by using the testing methods from this video.
It did help me. I replaced an element on my cooktop (because the inner ring was burned out) and the old one only had one wire going to the limiter. This had me confused as the new one had 3 terminals. Based on trial and error I figured out which connection I needed to use. Everything worked but I didn't really understand why. This video made me understand that the wire I'm connecting is the wire for the high limit switch and the indicator switch ones are not being used. The indicator works as it should though so I'm thinking it must be timer based. Does that sound plausible?
Thank you for watching. I am not aware of any hot surface indicator lights that are timer based as these are normally tied to temperature. If there is a dual ring element then the 3 terminals that you connected to were likely for the burner itself & the high limit switch. It is possible that the stove has the hot surface indicator on a separate circuit and is not directly tied to the burners. Also if you have the link to the burner, please share it as I am curious to see what sort of part has that variation.
My infinite switch from kenmore stove I need to replace it and I got one from AMRE SUPPLY to replace " aftermarket " should I do the same wire as the original?
Thanks for watching and for supporting us! You should connect the wires to the same numbered terminals on the switch. Try to match as closely as possible. This video on the heat switch explains some of the terminals in more detail: ua-cam.com/video/JKrrOflS1RM/v-deo.html
Which one would you think is the issue, when you put a cold pack on it, the light goes off? The surface elements or the heat switches? Only 1 burner has the issue. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching. The hot surface light is connected to the limiter on the heating element. If you're having issues with just one burner, then it's probably best to replace that heating element. The heat switch will not effect the hot surface light as it does not share any wires. The heat switch does have a separate light for power. This is often called the "cooktop indicator light"
Excellent video, unfortunately, the burner limiter in my GE range is failing but not fully failed. I suspect the problem is with a specific burner but the process of pulling the leads for testing that burner resets the limiter. An alternative method of testing the limiter would be very helpful.
Thanks for watching. When you say that you suspect that one of the limiters has not fully failed, does that mean the light stays on some of the time? If it is not possible to test the switches with a multimter, you could disconnect all of the hot surface light connectors except for one heating element, and then see if the light is still on even when the surface is cold. Then reconnect them one by one and verify. This is alittle bit more work as it requires disconnecting power, and taking the stove top apart multiple times but if you follow through one by one then you can narrow it down.
Thanks for watching. When you turn on a burner, the glass directly above and around the burner will heat up. There will be some residual heat for 10 minutes even after the burner has turned off. The hot surface light lets a user know that the glass surface is still hot and will potentially burn your hand.
Thanks for the video. Have a practical question. If the light is on and the circuit breaker closes the conduit, does it have impact on electricity usage? Or the effect is not so big to be concerned about?
Thanks for watching. The hot surface light does not consume much electricity. If it stays on, there won't be a significant difference in your electricity bill.
My stove doesn't have a glass top. Mine has exposed elements. Do you have a video showing how to test a stove top burner light with exposed elements? I have a GE stove.
Thanks for watching. If you have a conventional stove with coiled elements then the light you're troubleshooting is a cooktop indicator light. For this you'll have to test each heat switch: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Of course our stove messed up just before we're getting ready to leave for a few days. Will it hurt anything to just leave it and let the light stay on until we return or should I disconnect the stove?
The elements on my GE model J BP66S0K1SS RANGE work fine. However, the ON/OFF light is NOT working, but the "its-still-hot-light" IS working. Is there a simple repair for this? The hot light does turn off when the elements are cooled.
Thanks for watching. The power on light is also known as the cooktop indicator light or the power indicator light. This is powered by one of the 4 heat switches. You'll have to take off the back cover and test each switch until you narrow down which one has a stuck contact: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
@@anjalpatel2394 If the stuck contact is only on the limiter, then it will only keep the light on. It's separate from the heating circuit as shown in the "how it works" segment of this video.
Hard to see, but at 5:03 I was able to determine the 4 terminals are, indeed, labeled 1a, 2a, 1b, 2b. It really doesn't matter where they are on your demo model, it matters that your viewers check theirs and then check for continuity (set your multi-meter to the horseshoe :-) ) between 1b and 2b. P.S. It's too bad you can't replace just the switch instead of the whole element, or better yet, be able to open it up to un-stick the indicator switch.
Thanks for watching! You have a good eye, and we added the graphics and the explanation because the markings don't show up nicely on camera. There are a small number of elements that can have the limiter removed but those are not common. As well since not all switches look the same, a continuity test on the terminal numbers was the best way to troubleshoot across various models. We try to make these videos helpful to as many different stoves as possible. Cheers!
Thanks for watching. You can get exact replacement stove heating elements from AMRE. Enter you model number here to see an exact match: www.amresupply.com/lookup or browse the category: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Elements-Surface-Radiant-Solid-Surface-632517-AD1C
Thank you so much for posting this video. My insurance's keep telling me I don't have a problem with my hotpoint cooker even though one of the coil out of three on one burner doesn't turn on at all. Now I can confidentiality argue there is a fault.
can i simply remove the indicator wires from the faulty switch and tape them off to avoid buying the switch (I know i wont get hot surface light for that cook head)
Thanks for watching. Its always best to replace the element but if that is not possible at the moment, disconnecting the wires will prevent power from being supplied to the hot surface light. It will stop it from staying on constantly, and taping it off the wires will keep it isolated and prevent a short. The heating element will still continue to heat up and work as normal.
Thanks for watching. If the light stays on forever, given enough time it would eventually burn out, turning the light off. These small indicator lights are used in all sorts of other electronics and appliances and are safe to stay on. The issue with the stove is you no longer have a light to tell you when it's still hot or when it's cooled down completely. If the light stays on, installing a new light won't fix it. You'll have to narrow down which burner has a faulty limiter as shown in the video.
Thanks for watching. Not all models have hot surface indicator lights but in the models that do, the hot surface light is wired to the limiter in the elements as that is what is needed to detect the temperature. If it's not connect to limiter on the elements it would need some other way of detecting the temperature.
1. What might the problem be if the hot surface indicator light for one burner does not turn on, but the burner heats up? What if one "on" indicator does not light, but heats up?
Thanks for watching. If you have more than one hot surface light, then its possible that one of the lights has burnt out. Alternatively if the light doesn't turn on when one of the burners is working, then it's going to be an issue with the limiter in that that specific heating element. Alternatively if the cooktop indicator light (power on light) doesn't turn on when using one of the burners then it's going to be an issue with the heat switch.
Hi I have a GE Model JB655EK4ES, The Inner burner or smaller burner does not work. its glass stove top with burner and one warmer. Big burner has two burner, Inner and outer or Larger and smaller. Can someone help me, what needs to replaced. Ive opened and visually looked into the burner and switch. Nothing seems to be abnormal. Please help.
Hi Jahanur, thank you for watching. If an element isn't working properly in your glass stove top then it could be an issue with the switch or the element itself. Using a multimeter you can test the components to determine what has failed as its difficult to tell just by looking at it. The testing and troubleshooting is shown in this video ua-cam.com/video/GaW7uAHkPQI/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching. First double check that you were in fact testing the right terminals. As well check to make sure that nothing else is touching the element terminals. You can test between the wire terminals and the frame to see if it has shorted to ground.
Hi, Thanks for the great video. I very much follow the know-how and feel my limiter has gone bad. I am using a whirpool stove and have both lights (Cooktop ON) and (Cooktop Hot ON). Not sure why the Cooktop ON light is still there, despite I have the switch off. Please advise.
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help. If the cooktop on, (cooktop indicator) light stays on, then it's likely an issue with the heat switch. You can test each of the 4 switches with a multimeter until you narrow down the faulty switch: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
I'm experiencing the same issue with the indicator light with my Frigidaire CPLES399EC8. All of my burners work. Just the light that heat indicator light doesn't turn off. Is this the same troubleshooting issue?
Thanks for watching. If the hot surface indicator light stays on then it will be an issue with one of the limiters in one of the heating elements. You will need to open up the top and test each element as per the steps in this video. Alternatively if the cooktop indicator light (power light) doesn't turn off then its a problem with one of the heat switches: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply It is indeed the hot surface indicator light. So just to make sure I understand, even though the elements are still working (turning on and off, heating correctly) I would still need to replace the heating element?
Further to this question, I have 4 indicator lights, one for a corresponding element. Does the indicator light that stays on match the heating element that needs replacing?
@@nicolefelicitas1961 That is right. Once you narrow down which element has a faulty limiter, you'll have to replace the entire element which you can find using this lookup tool: www.amresupply.com/lookup Keep in mind there are a small number of elements that have removable limiters, but they are not as common so its harder to find the replacement limiters in those cases.
@@nicolefelicitas1961 Just saw this question now. If each heating element turns on a different hot surface light, then you'll have to narrow down the heating element which is wired to the light that won't shut off.
Thanks for watching. When you turn off the burner does it cool down completely? Is it only the light that stays on? If that is the case then it's likely a faulty limiter on one of the elements.
i have the exact same stove.same problem..is is safe to just not fix it and use anyway..not like its gonna turn itself on in middle of the night is it?
Thanks for watching. As you can see in the circuit at 1:31 the hot surface light is not on the same circuit as the heating element. This means that the hot surface light won't affect the heating elements and there is no risk of the heating element turning on without turning on the heat switch directly.
Thank you madmax1970 for asking that question. I have the same issue and I was very worried about it until I watched this video and read your comment. Not knowing when I will be able to get it fixed. Now I know it is a minor issue, and that I can fix if I choose to sometime in the future
Hi. My Mom has A Samsung flat top stove. Not used for days and that light stays on. Are all stoves heating and heating indicator lights on separate circuits . Just want to make sure this is safe to continue using with the light on ? Thank you so much.
Thanks for watching. If the hot surface light stays on and the cooktop is cool then there is no issue with it staying on. It won't damage your stove. This light is on a separate circuit. However it will essentially make it more difficult to tell when your stove top is still hot as the light is giving you a false reading.
Thanks for watching. It is unlikely for both the cooktop indicator light (lights when the power to any burner is on) and the hot surface light to be stuck on at the same time. These are on different circuits. To test the hot surface light, you'll have to test the limiter in each heating element as shown in this video. To test the cooktop indicator light, you'll have to test each heat switch: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html Now if you have an advanced stove with a control board that has integrated stove top buttons instead of individual heat switches (with dials), then it is possible a faulty control board could create these issues. ua-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help. There are a small number of models that have a replaceable limiter, but they are not as common and requires some additional steps to replace. Using the part numbers on the heating element you might be able to check if the limiter can be swapped out in your model.
Thanks for watching. What do you mean? By standard electric range do you mean a conventional stove top with coiled heating elements? If so then you might be thinking of the cooktop (power) indicator light, which will be tested in a different way than the hot surface light. ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching. Since there is some heat left on the cooktop even after the burner is shut off, the light will usually stay on for a while. If the light was staying on all the time, and putting a bowl of ice turned it off, then it's likely that one of the switches (in one of the element limiters) is worn out and is still making contact at room temperature. If you test each element you will still be able to narrow down the one that is faulty following the steps on the video.
Thank you. This one is easy to test as you just need to test each surface element but it can sometimes be tricky to access the cooktop in some models. Never hurts to call a technician if needed.
Did this video help you fix your stove? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!
Yes, this helped me determine if the problem was the element or the limiter controlling the indicator. Thanks for this informative video.
@@izeugirdor You're very welcome, we're glad that you found it helpful!
No. I tested all switches, they were all open. I even tested the warmer. The light is still staying on.
@@miguellugo3543 Thanks for watching. It is unlikely for the hot surface indicator light to stay on if none of the limiter switches were closed at room temperature. By any chance is it the power indicator light for the burners? That could be a problem with the heat switches rather than the elements themselves: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
I tested all the switches and they are all open. But the one thing I did notice is I don’t have any wires going to my 1b and 2b on the element
I came to your youtube channel to troubleshoot my water heater and I fell down a rabbit hole. Great videos. My wife will be happy to finally get that surface light turned off... as long as I fix the water heater first.
Thank you, we're just happy to help! We're currently filming a series on refrigerator repairs which will be as detailed as this series, so this rabbit hole will be getting a little deeper in a few months!
Great video and very clear instructions. Instead of paying for a technician come out, I was able to do the diagnosis and repair myself. This really saved a lot of money. Thank you!
Thank you, we're glad to hear that the video helped you repair your stove and save money!!
What a fantastic film. Extremely well produced. Extremely helpful. Thank you!
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info! We try to make all of our videos as clear and as informative as this, and we followed the same format with our recent refrigerator series: ua-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxXf2GEiSiunxAlN3ENxXGq.html
Professionally done instructional video. Hat tip, for sure! Came here to learn how to replace my right 9" element. Learned about the indicator light, too. Can't thank you enough for explaining this so thoroughly. Will post again after I order the parts and the project is done. Thank you so much!
Thank you for watching, we're just happy to share some good info! Yes please follow up after the repairs are done, we're always curious to hear how it all goes!
@@AmreSupply It went perfectly! Had some stubborn retaining clips that put up a struggle but that was it. You saved us a lot of money. Thank you so much!! Liked and subscribed.
Very thorough and informative video. Was hoping the switch could be changed independently of the element. AMRE is my go to when I need replacement parts. Thanks for the help
Thank you Stephen, we're glad that you found it helpful and we're grateful for your support!
Top quality video. I'm a service tech and I've never found a break down of how the limiter works that's as easy to understand as this.
Thank you, we're just happy to help! We wanted to find a good visual style for these wiring diagrams that just wasn't a dense black and white symbol based one like the wiring diagrams on the tech sheets.
this is the million time best video, i fix the problem with my cooktop. thank you
You're welcome, we're just happy to share some good info!
Excellent video! Well organized and easy to follow instructions!
Thank you! We try to make all of our videos as clear and well organized as this. You'll find our new Refrigerator series is done in a very similar style: ua-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxXf2GEiSiunxAlN3ENxXGq.html
Extraordinarily clear video, really should be used as an example of the best of instructional videos. I haven't yet tried to fix my cooktop, but this shows me how!
Thank you Justin, we're just happy to help! We've found a format and a style that works and we're busy filming a series on refrigerator repairs as well! Cheers!
Excellent video.
Even though the heating element wasn't working, I wanted to verify with a meter to confirmed it was bad which it was.
I lucked out with my stove it didn't have a mounting bracket for the heating elements they were held in place with spring clips.
So just prop cook top like a car hood and get to.
Thank you, we're glad that the video was helpful!!
Amre are best place to buy parts.
Thank you for the kind words!
Hello. I need your help. I do have a problem with a Samsung range. I followed the procedure several times exactly as you described it. Every time I tested whole the elements' limiter (terminals 1B and 2B) the dial didn't show anything, just as it appears in the video in time 5:45. So, the indicator switches are Ok, but when I turn the range ON, the hot surface light remains ON. For an instance I thought my tester was wrong, so I got another one, and the results were the same. What do you think it would be? Thanks.
Thanks for watching. This can take more work to narrow down but you could do an elimination to see if there is still a problem with one of the limiters. The limiter could be sticking or intermittently giving issues which can sometimes not show up on a continuity test. You could try unplugging one limiter on one of the burners (just make sure the open ends are insulated / isolated and not touching anything). You can wrap them individually in electrical tape to isolate them. Then turn the range back on. If the light stays on, reconnect that burner and disconnect the next one and try again until you narrow it down.
If disconnecting it didn't help isolate it then it's possible that there's a short somewhere in the system. You can test the wires that lead into the indicator light for continuity. As well you could try testing for a short following the steps here: ua-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/v-deo.html
My GE Glass Stove Top element has a hot light indicator for each element. I know exactly which limiter is the culprit without needing to test. That said, the stove top works fine. Is there any need to get this replaced other than to stop the hot light indicator from showing?
Thanks for watching. Since the light is on a separate circuit than the burner, the stove will still work. If the heat switch is working properly then the burner will shut off and cool when turned off. So in this case, there is still full functionality even with a hot surface light that stays on.
I've experienced this occasionally with our Whirlpool range and I think sometimes leaving a pan on a warm burner may cause it to happen. I used to go down the basement and switch the circuit breaker off and back on again to clear it but then you might have to reset the clock, so now I just turn the burner back on fully for about 30-60 seconds and shut it back down and the light always clears once the burner cools back down in about 5 minutes, if it gets annoying to the point of happening all the time I'll do your fix, thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching. It seems that one of the limit switches might be sticking. The metal contacts inside of those switches can warp over time or become fatigued. Still if the problem is continuing to happen then you can definitely narrow it down by using the testing methods from this video.
It did help me. I replaced an element on my cooktop (because the inner ring was burned out) and the old one only had one wire going to the limiter. This had me confused as the new one had 3 terminals. Based on trial and error I figured out which connection I needed to use. Everything worked but I didn't really understand why. This video made me understand that the wire I'm connecting is the wire for the high limit switch and the indicator switch ones are not being used.
The indicator works as it should though so I'm thinking it must be timer based. Does that sound plausible?
Thank you for watching. I am not aware of any hot surface indicator lights that are timer based as these are normally tied to temperature.
If there is a dual ring element then the 3 terminals that you connected to were likely for the burner itself & the high limit switch. It is possible that the stove has the hot surface indicator on a separate circuit and is not directly tied to the burners.
Also if you have the link to the burner, please share it as I am curious to see what sort of part has that variation.
My infinite switch from kenmore stove I need to replace it and I got one from AMRE SUPPLY to replace " aftermarket " should I do the same wire as the original?
Thanks for watching and for supporting us! You should connect the wires to the same numbered terminals on the switch. Try to match as closely as possible. This video on the heat switch explains some of the terminals in more detail: ua-cam.com/video/JKrrOflS1RM/v-deo.html
Excellent video. Thanks!
You're welcome!!
Which one would you think is the issue, when you put a cold pack on it, the light goes off? The surface elements or the heat switches? Only 1 burner has the issue. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching. The hot surface light is connected to the limiter on the heating element. If you're having issues with just one burner, then it's probably best to replace that heating element. The heat switch will not effect the hot surface light as it does not share any wires. The heat switch does have a separate light for power. This is often called the "cooktop indicator light"
Excellent video, unfortunately, the burner limiter in my GE range is failing but not fully failed. I suspect the problem is with a specific burner but the process of pulling the leads for testing that burner resets the limiter. An alternative method of testing the limiter would be very helpful.
Thanks for watching. When you say that you suspect that one of the limiters has not fully failed, does that mean the light stays on some of the time?
If it is not possible to test the switches with a multimter, you could disconnect all of the hot surface light connectors except for one heating element, and then see if the light is still on even when the surface is cold. Then reconnect them one by one and verify. This is alittle bit more work as it requires disconnecting power, and taking the stove top apart multiple times but if you follow through one by one then you can narrow it down.
Hello there! I just got a new electrical stove and was wondering what does the hot surface indicate?
Thanks for watching. When you turn on a burner, the glass directly above and around the burner will heat up. There will be some residual heat for 10 minutes even after the burner has turned off. The hot surface light lets a user know that the glass surface is still hot and will potentially burn your hand.
Thanks for the video. Have a practical question. If the light is on and the circuit breaker closes the conduit, does it have impact on electricity usage? Or the effect is not so big to be concerned about?
Thanks for watching. The hot surface light does not consume much electricity. If it stays on, there won't be a significant difference in your electricity bill.
My stove doesn't have a glass top. Mine has exposed elements. Do you have a video showing how to test a stove top burner light with exposed elements? I have a GE stove.
Thanks for watching. If you have a conventional stove with coiled elements then the light you're troubleshooting is a cooktop indicator light. For this you'll have to test each heat switch: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Of course our stove messed up just before we're getting ready to leave for a few days. Will it hurt anything to just leave it and let the light stay on until we return or should I disconnect the stove?
@@historybuff5739 The light is fine if it is lit up as long as no burners have heat. For extra safety you could still disconnect power to the stove.
Excellent video thank you
You're welcome!!
great video, very clear details.
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
anyway you can find the indicator switch limiter instead of replacing the whole element?
Thanks for watching. Some limiters are detachable and can be replaced separately but in many cases you'll have to replace the entire element.
The elements on my GE model J BP66S0K1SS RANGE work fine. However, the ON/OFF light is NOT working, but the "its-still-hot-light" IS working. Is there a simple repair for this? The hot light does turn off when the elements are cooled.
Thanks for watching. The power on light is also known as the cooktop indicator light or the power indicator light. This is powered by one of the 4 heat switches. You'll have to take off the back cover and test each switch until you narrow down which one has a stuck contact: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply if there is a stuck contact, wouldn't that burner be hot??
@@anjalpatel2394 If the stuck contact is only on the limiter, then it will only keep the light on. It's separate from the heating circuit as shown in the "how it works" segment of this video.
Hard to see, but at 5:03 I was able to determine the 4 terminals are, indeed, labeled 1a, 2a, 1b, 2b. It really doesn't matter where they are on your demo model, it matters that your viewers check theirs and then check for continuity (set your multi-meter to the horseshoe :-) ) between 1b and 2b. P.S. It's too bad you can't replace just the switch instead of the whole element, or better yet, be able to open it up to un-stick the indicator switch.
Thanks for watching! You have a good eye, and we added the graphics and the explanation because the markings don't show up nicely on camera. There are a small number of elements that can have the limiter removed but those are not common. As well since not all switches look the same, a continuity test on the terminal numbers was the best way to troubleshoot across various models. We try to make these videos helpful to as many different stoves as possible. Cheers!
Great video but couldn’t I remove 1 “hot surface” wire from each element until the light goes off?
Thanks for watching. That is one way of eliminating it but it does require a bit of back and forth.
You could but that seems much more complicated, and dangerous since the oven would have to be plugged in and you'd be messing with active wires.
This video helped me fix one, ty!
You're welcome Adolfo, we're glad to hear it!
Where do get these elment from
Thanks for watching. You can get exact replacement stove heating elements from AMRE.
Enter you model number here to see an exact match: www.amresupply.com/lookup
or browse the category: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Elements-Surface-Radiant-Solid-Surface-632517-AD1C
Great video and thanks for sharing .
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thank you so much for posting this video. My insurance's keep telling me I don't have a problem with my hotpoint cooker even though one of the coil out of three on one burner doesn't turn on at all. Now I can confidentiality argue there is a fault.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
can i simply remove the indicator wires from the faulty switch and tape them off to avoid buying the switch (I know i wont get hot surface light for that cook head)
Thanks for watching. Its always best to replace the element but if that is not possible at the moment, disconnecting the wires will prevent power from being supplied to the hot surface light. It will stop it from staying on constantly, and taping it off the wires will keep it isolated and prevent a short. The heating element will still continue to heat up and work as normal.
Vance - if the light stays on forever - what damage will this cause ? Electrical shortages/fire? Does it have to be changed?
Thanks for watching. If the light stays on forever, given enough time it would eventually burn out, turning the light off. These small indicator lights are used in all sorts of other electronics and appliances and are safe to stay on. The issue with the stove is you no longer have a light to tell you when it's still hot or when it's cooled down completely.
If the light stays on, installing a new light won't fix it. You'll have to narrow down which burner has a faulty limiter as shown in the video.
Our glass top does not have wiring to the two smaller terminals... where is the 'hot surface' light then connected? model #WFE515S0JS0
Thanks for watching. Not all models have hot surface indicator lights but in the models that do, the hot surface light is wired to the limiter in the elements as that is what is needed to detect the temperature. If it's not connect to limiter on the elements it would need some other way of detecting the temperature.
1. What might the problem be if the hot surface indicator light for one burner does not turn on, but the burner heats up? What if one "on" indicator does not light, but heats up?
Thanks for watching. If you have more than one hot surface light, then its possible that one of the lights has burnt out.
Alternatively if the light doesn't turn on when one of the burners is working, then it's going to be an issue with the limiter in that that specific heating element.
Alternatively if the cooktop indicator light (power on light) doesn't turn on when using one of the burners then it's going to be an issue with the heat switch.
I have the same issue but with the oven, the "hot" oven indicator light stays on when the oven is turned off. Would the fix be the same? Thanks
Thanks for watching. What sort of an oven do you have? Does the oven have a physical dial or a control board?
Excellent.
Thanks for watching!
Hi I have a GE Model JB655EK4ES, The Inner burner or smaller burner does not work. its glass stove top with burner and one warmer. Big burner has two burner, Inner and outer or Larger and smaller. Can someone help me, what needs to replaced. Ive opened and visually looked into the burner and switch. Nothing seems to be abnormal. Please help.
Hi Jahanur, thank you for watching. If an element isn't working properly in your glass stove top then it could be an issue with the switch or the element itself. Using a multimeter you can test the components to determine what has failed as its difficult to tell just by looking at it. The testing and troubleshooting is shown in this video ua-cam.com/video/GaW7uAHkPQI/v-deo.html
I tested all of the burners on my Whirlpool RF262LXSB. They all tested for no continuity. What's next?
Thanks for watching. First double check that you were in fact testing the right terminals. As well check to make sure that nothing else is touching the element terminals. You can test between the wire terminals and the frame to see if it has shorted to ground.
Hi, Thanks for the great video. I very much follow the know-how and feel my limiter has gone bad.
I am using a whirpool stove and have both lights (Cooktop ON) and (Cooktop Hot ON).
Not sure why the Cooktop ON light is still there, despite I have the switch off.
Please advise.
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help. If the cooktop on, (cooktop indicator) light stays on, then it's likely an issue with the heat switch. You can test each of the 4 switches with a multimeter until you narrow down the faulty switch: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
I'm experiencing the same issue with the indicator light with my Frigidaire CPLES399EC8. All of my burners work. Just the light that heat indicator light doesn't turn off. Is this the same troubleshooting issue?
Thanks for watching. If the hot surface indicator light stays on then it will be an issue with one of the limiters in one of the heating elements. You will need to open up the top and test each element as per the steps in this video.
Alternatively if the cooktop indicator light (power light) doesn't turn off then its a problem with one of the heat switches: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply It is indeed the hot surface indicator light. So just to make sure I understand, even though the elements are still working (turning on and off, heating correctly) I would still need to replace the heating element?
Further to this question, I have 4 indicator lights, one for a corresponding element. Does the indicator light that stays on match the heating element that needs replacing?
@@nicolefelicitas1961 That is right. Once you narrow down which element has a faulty limiter, you'll have to replace the entire element which you can find using this lookup tool: www.amresupply.com/lookup
Keep in mind there are a small number of elements that have removable limiters, but they are not as common so its harder to find the replacement limiters in those cases.
@@nicolefelicitas1961 Just saw this question now. If each heating element turns on a different hot surface light, then you'll have to narrow down the heating element which is wired to the light that won't shut off.
The on/off regular way is not working anymore... And the heat light stays on even if cool... Whats that could be...!?
Thanks for watching. When you turn off the burner does it cool down completely? Is it only the light that stays on? If that is the case then it's likely a faulty limiter on one of the elements.
i have the exact same stove.same problem..is is safe to just not fix it and use anyway..not like its gonna turn itself on in middle of the night is it?
Thanks for watching. As you can see in the circuit at 1:31 the hot surface light is not on the same circuit as the heating element. This means that the hot surface light won't affect the heating elements and there is no risk of the heating element turning on without turning on the heat switch directly.
Thank you madmax1970 for asking that question. I have the same issue and I was very worried about it until I watched this video and read your comment. Not knowing when I will be able to get it fixed. Now I know it is a minor issue, and that I can fix if I choose to sometime in the future
Hi. My Mom has A Samsung flat top stove. Not used for days and that light stays on. Are all stoves heating and heating indicator lights on separate circuits . Just want to make sure this is safe to continue using with the light on ? Thank you so much.
What happens if we leave it without fixing it?
Thanks for watching. If the hot surface light stays on and the cooktop is cool then there is no issue with it staying on. It won't damage your stove. This light is on a separate circuit. However it will essentially make it more difficult to tell when your stove top is still hot as the light is giving you a false reading.
Both my Stove on and hot light keeps staying on. I already reset the breaker.
Thanks for watching. It is unlikely for both the cooktop indicator light (lights when the power to any burner is on) and the hot surface light to be stuck on at the same time. These are on different circuits.
To test the hot surface light, you'll have to test the limiter in each heating element as shown in this video.
To test the cooktop indicator light, you'll have to test each heat switch: ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
Now if you have an advanced stove with a control board that has integrated stove top buttons instead of individual heat switches (with dials), then it is possible a faulty control board could create these issues. ua-cam.com/video/ORTi4lLyoqw/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply our power flashed two times when I was cooking when he had a storm. Now the are just both stuck that way. It’s a whirlpool stove.
Great video. I just wish these had a better design. It's annoying and wasteful to have to replace the entire element instead of just the switch.
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help. There are a small number of models that have a replaceable limiter, but they are not as common and requires some additional steps to replace. Using the part numbers on the heating element you might be able to check if the limiter can be swapped out in your model.
Why could this video have been done with a standard electric range
Thanks for watching. What do you mean? By standard electric range do you mean a conventional stove top with coiled heating elements? If so then you might be thinking of the cooktop (power) indicator light, which will be tested in a different way than the hot surface light. ua-cam.com/video/s5iG61kAyJQ/v-deo.html
I put a bowl of ice on the cooking surface and the light shut off.
Thanks for watching. Since there is some heat left on the cooktop even after the burner is shut off, the light will usually stay on for a while. If the light was staying on all the time, and putting a bowl of ice turned it off, then it's likely that one of the switches (in one of the element limiters) is worn out and is still making contact at room temperature. If you test each element you will still be able to narrow down the one that is faulty following the steps on the video.
Thanks I'll check it out.
🤝👏👏👏✌👍🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Unfortunately it’s above my pay grade.
Thank you. This one is easy to test as you just need to test each surface element but it can sometimes be tricky to access the cooktop in some models. Never hurts to call a technician if needed.