Thanks heaps Mate! I tried the 1/4 turn way on my Mercedes sprinter 2007 (Luk), and works perfect first time! Great to see there is hope for the home mechanic. (Side note: This saved me about NZ$3K!!!)
Nice technique. Folks with B7 generation Audi RS4's have suspected installation without the tool was the cause of several issues post-install. Everything else on that car can go wrong too :) (usually slave cylinder, then the hose, then the master cylinder)
I am using Part Number KF605-02 I purchased from O'Reilly's Auto Parts in Santa Rosa California. It is for a 1989 Mercury Tracer, 1.6L non-turbo. The original clutch that I removed had 6 springs on the clutch the new one has only 4. The original pressure place I removed has many little "fingers" on the diaphragm spring, the new one has less. When comparing the two clutch assemblies side by side they appear to have the same dimensions - Throw out bearing, clutch disc, and pressure plate. But when I mount the pressure plate and torque the bolts to 20 ft. Lbs the CENTER of the Diaphragm Spring gets sucked in totally flat towards the engine away from the throw out bearing, it does not protrude outwards towards the trow out bearing at all! It is not a hydraulic clutch. When I mount the bell to the engine and connect the clutch cable properly I do not have any tension at all on the clutch pedal. It feels exactly like when it is not hooked up at all. It goes straight to the floor with very little resistance and sticks there until I use my hand to pull back it up. I did that 3 separate times wit the same result. When I mount the old pressure plate and tighten it down, the many diaphragm springs do not go flat, they still protrude towards the throw out bearing. WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE NEW CLUTCH ASSEMBLY #KF605-02 ?? After the person at O'Reilly's looked online at other part stores and crossed referenced then they said there is actually tow parts numbers for a 1989 Mercury Tracer 1.6L non-turbo. There are a KF605-02 and a KF605-01. He said they sell mostly the KF605-02. Is one a diaphragm type on the other a coil spring type pressure plate? Hopefully I will not have to go with a different brand.
Ok, thanks. It is not a self adjusting clutch as shown in this video. I thought you might have another part number for that vehicle beings no one else can seem to find one in the Power Torque line. There cannot be many options for an 89 Mercury Tracer as the vehicle was only made for 2 years, it's a copy of a Mazda 323. I could see if the disc was worn out and the pedal adjustment was maxed out but the throw out bearing does not even touch at all.
I just had a self adjusting clutch done on my Acura TLs. It engages when the pedal barely comes off the floor, but holds fine. Did they mess up the settings?
Video is ok and informative. Only concerns as an ex clutch warranty specialist is that you lubricated the release bearing. Was the guide tube on the bearing plastic or metal? Of plastic then that is a self lubricating plastic and does not require any additional lubrication prior to fitment. With that being lubricated you are running the risk of highly likely contaminating the friction lining
perfectionclutch I understand what your saying. From the video though I couldn't see if it was a plastic guide tube or metal guide tube on the release bearing. I used to work for ZF Sachs for warranty. 10
Awesome video. What is a good grease to use on the input shaft spline? My Ford OEM kit didn't include spline grease. I'd also like to know how to be sure that the adjustment springs are in the correct position. I'm dealing with a Ford OEM self-adjusting clutch (made by Luk) for a 99 ranger. The workshop manual says to compress the finger springs, then rotate the adjusting ring counterclockwise until the tension springs are compressed (14mm max width). My tension springs are at 14-15mm out of the box, and it seems like they could compress a lot more. I guess I'll just install it as-is -- not sure why the manual instructs us to compress the springs.
@@AdamDUrso thank you for answering for the rest of us that came later :-) the goon that sold me my car (same trans + clutch used in this video) decided it was a great idea to replace the clutch but not the rear main. Now I have to go back and replace that leaking seal and reuse the clutch ( it has less than 2k miles)
Hmmm? This is just the way non self adjusting clutches should be fitted, as others have commented here. If it was this easy then why all the advice from clutch manufacturers [LUK for eg.] to use special tools and procedures "whilst" fitting their sa clutches? And I don't buy the "they just want to make more money out of us all" theory. Ok, a new sac should be in the fully "re-set" state out of the box but that setting can be changed if it's received a severe enough jolt in transit, and there are no clear or precise markings on the clutch to indicate whether it's fully re-set or not. You can only guess at how compressed the small coil springs [on LUK] should be at full re-set. From previous comments it's worked for some but I'm sceptical, proceed with caution!
In a video that deals with something advanced/extraordinary, it should be mandatory to explain the difference in question, that is: In what way does a self adjusting clutch differ from a normal one.
It should also be mandatory to prevent idiots like you from making rude comments. Clutch replacements are for people who know what they're doing. A self-adjusting clutch is literally that, a clutch that no matter how much it wears down, the engagement point is maintained on your left foot. That means that if the bite occurs 2 in from the floor when it was new, it would also occur 2 in from the floor when the clutch is completely worn out. As opposed to a traditional clutch which as material wears, the pedal engages higher and higher until it's at the end of the travel
My luk sac clutch has a plate in the middle holding down the arms of the pressure plate with a hex hole in the middle, do I remove that or will that release the springs?
Do not removed it until you bolt on flywheel. What you need to do cut your centering tool in half just about few inches from locking metal so u can fit the hexagon to remove.. if you removed it prior to installation it become useless. I learned my lesson I only got 20k Miles then shifting become sluggish.
Hello sir. I have changed clutch at passat b6 2008 year without spécial tools.It is a self adjusting clutch. But now clutch pedal is vibrating when change gears. You can say something about it. Thanks atif
Thing is...I had my rear crank seal replaced 2 days ago and a garage who did it told me that they have to buy a new clutch kit as the old one (2 months old clutch) cant be refitted because of the pressure plate not being locked in its position. That doesnt sound right to me so I asked them for the old clutch and plate and now I just need to find somebody who will be able to reset it so I could sell it.
@@Matus-ss9hg They dont want to play with it incase of comebacks. Resetting without the right tools can be a pain as some of the spring clips are plastic
Thank you. I studied my self adjusted pressure plate. It looks like there is no delicate part in it and your installation approach works fine. Here is my conclusion: Actually, you do not need to work quarter turn as well. As soon as you do not abuse and tighten one side all the way so that the pressure plate tilts, sequential tightening works fine.
I would say..... This video title and the praise are confusing to me. This is more or less literally how to put a clutch on. The title kind of implies information on how to install one without special tools for reinstall.
It's a really bad idea install this without the tools. First the tool isn't expensive. Second you can damage the clutch or the flyweel. Third if you don't spend money you can make the tool yourself. Use the brain please.
Please, stop giving horrible advices. Installation without the proper tooling annihilate all the pros ot the SAC and lead to an excessive wear nad premature sliding of adjusting ring.
I am telling you as a victim of a local Honda dealer, which has replaced clutch on my Civic 5D I-Shift with SAC clutch, without the proper tooling. Now they clamed their guilt and going to change it again.
i have studied my self adjusting clutch over the weekend (2002 saturn sl1 luk pressure plate). I do not know how your dealer installed your clutch but they must be very creative to damage it. I do not know what you refer as sensor springs as well. My self adjusting pressure plate has 3 springs which loads the pressure plate when there is a gap. My springs cannot be damages anyway by any kind of pressures by this kind of installation.
perfectionclutch your Honda dealer most likely gunned the clutch cover on without the tool. This will most likely distort the clutch cover and cause clutch clearance problems. Another issue with gunning it on unevenly is that you run the risk of triggering the SAC mechanism. You CAN fit a SAC without the tool. 1/4 turn at a time opposite points is fine.
This video was a huge help for doing the clutch on my '08 Accord V6 coupe. Thanks for the thorough breakdown!
Thanks heaps Mate! I tried the 1/4 turn way on my Mercedes sprinter 2007 (Luk), and works perfect first time! Great to see there is hope for the home mechanic. (Side note: This saved me about NZ$3K!!!)
Useful general clutch install info. Skip to aboout 8min for the SAC relevant info :D
Nice technique. Folks with B7 generation Audi RS4's have suspected installation without the tool was the cause of several issues post-install. Everything else on that car can go wrong too :) (usually slave cylinder, then the hose, then the master cylinder)
grat vid thanks, this is the way i have fitted clutch kits all my life with no comebacks, no special tools needed just common sense .
perfectionclutch will this technique work on a 98 Ford F-150 4.2?
What happens if the fly wheel turns while your tightening the pressure plate?
Try to avoid turning the flywheel clockwise as this will rotate the engine anti clockwise and may cause your timing to jump
Many thanks, very very helpful!
I am using Part Number KF605-02 I purchased from O'Reilly's Auto Parts in Santa Rosa California. It is for a 1989 Mercury Tracer, 1.6L non-turbo. The original clutch that I removed had 6 springs on the clutch the new one has only 4. The original pressure place I removed has many little "fingers" on the diaphragm spring, the new one has less. When comparing the two clutch assemblies side by side they appear to have the same dimensions - Throw out bearing, clutch disc, and pressure plate. But when I mount the pressure plate and torque the bolts to 20 ft. Lbs the CENTER of the Diaphragm Spring gets sucked in totally flat towards the engine away from the throw out bearing, it does not protrude outwards towards the trow out bearing at all! It is not a hydraulic clutch. When I mount the bell to the engine and connect the clutch cable properly I do not have any tension at all on the clutch pedal. It feels exactly like when it is not hooked up at all. It goes straight to the floor with very little resistance and sticks there until I use my hand to pull back it up. I did that 3 separate times wit the same result. When I mount the old pressure plate and tighten it down, the many diaphragm springs do not go flat, they still protrude towards the throw out bearing. WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE NEW CLUTCH ASSEMBLY #KF605-02 ?? After the person at O'Reilly's looked online at other part stores and crossed referenced then they said there is actually tow parts numbers for a 1989 Mercury Tracer 1.6L non-turbo. There are a KF605-02 and a KF605-01. He said they sell mostly the KF605-02. Is one a diaphragm type on the other a coil spring type pressure plate? Hopefully I will not have to go with a different brand.
Ok, thanks. It is not a self adjusting clutch as shown in this video. I thought you might have another part number for that vehicle beings no one else can seem to find one in the Power Torque line. There cannot be many options for an 89 Mercury Tracer as the vehicle was only made for 2 years, it's a copy of a Mazda 323. I could see if the disc was worn out and the pedal adjustment was maxed out but the throw out bearing does not even touch at all.
I just had a self adjusting clutch done on my Acura TLs. It engages when the pedal barely comes off the floor, but holds fine. Did they mess up the settings?
Video is ok and informative. Only concerns as an ex clutch warranty specialist is that you lubricated the release bearing. Was the guide tube on the bearing plastic or metal? Of plastic then that is a self lubricating plastic and does not require any additional lubrication prior to fitment. With that being lubricated you are running the risk of highly likely contaminating the friction lining
perfectionclutch
I understand what your saying. From the video though I couldn't see if it was a plastic guide tube or metal guide tube on the release bearing.
I used to work for ZF Sachs for warranty. 10
If you search for Sachs self adjusting clutch there is an installation video I did a few hrs back ;) or was it Sachs xtend
Thanks! 😊
Awesome video. What is a good grease to use on the input shaft spline? My Ford OEM kit didn't include spline grease.
I'd also like to know how to be sure that the adjustment springs are in the correct position. I'm dealing with a Ford OEM self-adjusting clutch (made by Luk) for a 99 ranger. The workshop manual says to compress the finger springs, then rotate the adjusting ring counterclockwise until the tension springs are compressed (14mm max width). My tension springs are at 14-15mm out of the box, and it seems like they could compress a lot more. I guess I'll just install it as-is -- not sure why the manual instructs us to compress the springs.
Thank you very much sir, I will which Tobe your student
very infomative, thank you.
It pains me to ask but due to budget constraints I'm going to be installing a used SAC. Do the springs need to be reset prior to installation?
Too late for you I'm sure but for the benefit of others: Yes they do need to be reset.
@@AdamDUrso thank you for answering for the rest of us that came later :-) the goon that sold me my car (same trans + clutch used in this video) decided it was a great idea to replace the clutch but not the rear main. Now I have to go back and replace that leaking seal and reuse the clutch ( it has less than 2k miles)
Hmmm? This is just the way non self adjusting clutches should be fitted, as others have commented here.
If it was this easy then why all the advice from clutch manufacturers [LUK for eg.] to use special tools and procedures "whilst" fitting their sa clutches? And I don't buy the "they just want to make more money out of us all" theory.
Ok, a new sac should be in the fully "re-set" state out of the box but that setting can be changed if it's received a severe enough jolt in transit, and there are no clear or precise markings on the clutch to indicate whether it's fully re-set or not. You can only guess at how compressed the small coil springs [on LUK] should be at full re-set.
From previous comments it's worked for some but I'm sceptical, proceed with caution!
please let me know one question is the adjustable clutch be repaired like the old cluths
In a video that deals with something advanced/extraordinary, it should be mandatory to explain the difference in question, that is: In what way does a self adjusting clutch differ from a normal one.
It should also be mandatory to prevent idiots like you from making rude comments. Clutch replacements are for people who know what they're doing. A self-adjusting clutch is literally that, a clutch that no matter how much it wears down, the engagement point is maintained on your left foot. That means that if the bite occurs 2 in from the floor when it was new, it would also occur 2 in from the floor when the clutch is completely worn out. As opposed to a traditional clutch which as material wears, the pedal engages higher and higher until it's at the end of the travel
Will this work on a mondeo st220 with dubbel mass Wheel?????
thank you Sir!
can this process be used on a 2006 Volvo S40 5 speed when installing a new clutch disc & pressure plate from Volvo dealer ?
do i have to remove the clutch the same way you put it on quarter turn at a time?
Harley Norris use a big hammer to bang on it BC there will be a lot of clutch dust inside cover causing it to be difficult to remove.
yes. and then you can rearm the pressure plate if the surface is good. do a youtube search on rearming it.
use angle grinder for removal. Works every time.
My luk sac clutch has a plate in the middle holding down the arms of the pressure plate with a hex hole in the middle, do I remove that or will that release the springs?
Glad you asked.. mine too! I cant see the need for the expensive tool.. I can fit this myself on my drive
Do not removed it until you bolt on flywheel. What you need to do cut your centering tool in half just about few inches from locking metal so u can fit the hexagon to remove.. if you removed it prior to installation it become useless. I learned my lesson I only got 20k Miles then shifting become sluggish.
Hello sir. I have changed clutch at passat b6 2008 year without spécial tools.It is a self adjusting clutch. But now clutch pedal is vibrating when change gears. You can say something about it. Thanks atif
Its the flywheel issue because the new clutch plate has harder pressure on it. You should change the new flywheel too
will this work on my 1990 Mazda b2200
This is valeo clutch .sat clutch manufacturing in only valeo. oragadam Tamil Nadu.
Hello I just want to ask if you reset diaphragm by pressing it or it doesnt have to be reset. Thanks
Thing is...I had my rear crank seal replaced 2 days ago and a garage who did it told me that they have to buy a new clutch kit as the old one (2 months old clutch) cant be refitted because of the pressure plate not being locked in its position. That doesnt sound right to me so I asked them for the old clutch and plate and now I just need to find somebody who will be able to reset it so I could sell it.
@@Matus-ss9hg you can reset it yourself with basic tools at home
@@Matus-ss9hg They dont want to play with it incase of comebacks. Resetting without the right tools can be a pain as some of the spring clips are plastic
is there a visual clue that shows self adjusting mechanism is compromised?
Thank you. I studied my self adjusted pressure plate. It looks like there is no delicate part in it and your installation approach works fine. Here is my conclusion: Actually, you do not need to work quarter turn as well. As soon as you do not abuse and tighten one side all the way so that the pressure plate tilts, sequential tightening works fine.
That's how iv always fitted clutch on any car
I would say..... This video title and the praise are confusing to me. This is more or less literally how to put a clutch on. The title kind of implies information on how to install one without special tools for reinstall.
Prashanth M
It's a really bad idea install this without the tools. First the tool isn't expensive. Second you can damage the clutch or the flyweel. Third if you don't spend money you can make the tool yourself. Use the brain please.
You can't damage the clutch - that's just rubbish... Careful, it will shatter like glass!
Installed it this way with no issues, you've got no common sense!
You don't have a clue about what you're talking about. Now use your brain.
Please, stop giving horrible advices. Installation without the proper tooling annihilate all the pros ot the SAC and lead to an excessive wear nad premature sliding of adjusting ring.
I am telling you as a victim of a local Honda dealer, which has replaced clutch on my Civic 5D I-Shift with SAC clutch, without the proper tooling. Now they clamed their guilt and going to change it again.
I tell you more I have seen as the sensor spring deforms under load of cover bolts. It is very risky to replace such clutch that way.
i have studied my self adjusting clutch over the weekend (2002 saturn sl1 luk pressure plate). I do not know how your dealer installed your clutch but they must be very creative to damage it. I do not know what you refer as sensor springs as well. My self adjusting pressure plate has 3 springs which loads the pressure plate when there is a gap. My springs cannot be damages anyway by any kind of pressures by this kind of installation.
perfectionclutch your Honda dealer most likely gunned the clutch cover on without the tool. This will most likely distort the clutch cover and cause clutch clearance problems. Another issue with gunning it on unevenly is that you run the risk of triggering the SAC mechanism. You CAN fit a SAC without the tool. 1/4 turn at a time opposite points is fine.
LuK absolutely makes a self adjusting clutch reset tool. www.repxpert.us/en/work/productcatalog/product_ds3411