Doubt you'll get this but which way did you put the detent pin in? I just want to make sure I saw that right. I had to rewind and watch that twice just to make sure I saw what you did. If what you did was intentional, what's your reason for it?
You torqued the castle nut over 40 ft/lb. The way you had the wrench essentially lengthened your torque wrench without recalibrating the internals. You have to have the castle nut tool exactly 90 degrees off the side of the torque wrench head or it’s not accurate.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 Agree to disagree. The TM does not specify the orientation of the torque wrench. The illustration shows the torque wrench in line with the armorers tool. An illustration is not the verbiage. No where that I’ve ever seen does it say the torque values are compensated for the added leverage by running the torque wrench in line with the tool. This has been gone over several times in the AR community. If there is a torque value specified there is one way to meet it accurately, with the center of the fastener 90 degrees off the torque wrench anvil.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 agreed with banshee. Even an increase of one inch of lever (probably close to what he did here) will give him an extra 4lbs of torque. Think of a long seesaw. It's not a big deal because the armorers tool is so short but it will be much more of a problem if someone has another tool and follows this guide.
rather than “gripping the pistol grip” to prevent receiver extension clocking in the direction of applied torque, you can isolate both the geissele jig and the lower receiver(pistol grip removed) in the vice to isolate both work pieces while you torque the nut. I use one dime and one nickle on each side of the receiver pistol grip tang to make up the difference (grip removed, plan work flow accordingly) Credit: School of the American Rifle, and he got it from someone else. Keep in mind the steel backing plate tooth will go through the receiver ext like butter if it rotates.
these videos came in so clutch for me. i have a few psa lowers im building and been kind of hesitant because my eyes are not the best , these are going to help out so much thank you!
USMC TM says "torque is read when both wrenches are used together" picture shows in line and not at a 90 degree. It is ok. Plus or minus a few pounds is not a big deal. Especially when the range for barrel nut torque is 30 to 80 foot lbs.
Grease on threads helps lubricate the threads and get a uniform torque among the threads and connections that is the idea behind motors. I believe it also applies in this application but not really needed. The buffer tube used to be made out of steel and to prevent galling (corrosion from dissimilar metals coming in contact, aluminum and steel), but alot of buffer tube are coated and made of aluminum i have never seen galling from the buffer tube but the mil spec build Bible says to use and it can't really hurt so alot of people still follow it.
@@ericmckinley7985 ya but have heard of this new captured buffer. its similar to an AK12, as the bolt goes into the receiver extension, it pushes heavy mass metal forward into that carrier center void or something using gears to cancel out a newton law. made by [Maxim] Soo sick. seen it on a different channel covering NRA convention. not listed YET
@@montanaspring7176 Gimmicky. Either make things less reliable, have shit QC, or be so underwhelming in its performance you'd never notice it despite the out-the-ass price.
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Doubt you'll get this but which way did you put the detent pin in? I just want to make sure I saw that right. I had to rewind and watch that twice just to make sure I saw what you did. If what you did was intentional, what's your reason for it?
You torqued the castle nut over 40 ft/lb. The way you had the wrench essentially lengthened your torque wrench without recalibrating the internals. You have to have the castle nut tool exactly 90 degrees off the side of the torque wrench head or it’s not accurate.
Absolutely false, read the technical manual. The values are calculated with the wrench in line.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 Agree to disagree. The TM does not specify the orientation of the torque wrench. The illustration shows the torque wrench in line with the armorers tool. An illustration is not the verbiage. No where that I’ve ever seen does it say the torque values are compensated for the added leverage by running the torque wrench in line with the tool. This has been gone over several times in the AR community. If there is a torque value specified there is one way to meet it accurately, with the center of the fastener 90 degrees off the torque wrench anvil.
@@Banshee365 Show one credible source of information or military TM that supports your theory of how castle nuts are to be torqued, thanks.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 agreed with banshee. Even an increase of one inch of lever (probably close to what he did here) will give him an extra 4lbs of torque. Think of a long seesaw. It's not a big deal because the armorers tool is so short but it will be much more of a problem if someone has another tool and follows this guide.
@@Jeff-gu6nb Read the TM
rather than “gripping the pistol grip” to prevent receiver extension clocking in the direction of applied torque, you can isolate both the geissele jig and the lower receiver(pistol grip removed) in the vice to isolate both work pieces while you torque the nut. I use one dime and one nickle on each side of the receiver pistol grip tang to make up the difference (grip removed, plan work flow accordingly) Credit: School of the American Rifle, and he got it from someone else. Keep in mind the steel backing plate tooth will go through the receiver ext like butter if it rotates.
All 'em duck parts...
these videos came in so clutch for me. i have a few psa lowers im building and been kind of hesitant because my eyes are not the best , these are going to help out so much thank you!
You're welcome 🙏🏻
you need to bump those numbers up. a few lowers?
Love seeing your vids again. Reminds me of the good old days when I built my first ARs.
I THOUGHT YOU DIED WTF?? SOOOOO f****ng glad to see you back! I rarely come on youtube and didn’t notice your uploads until now.
*hugs*
USMC TM says "torque is read when both wrenches are used together" picture shows in line and not at a 90 degree. It is ok. Plus or minus a few pounds is not a big deal. Especially when the range for barrel nut torque is 30 to 80 foot lbs.
Range for the castle nut is 38-42ft/lb
But otherwise I agree it doesn’t matter on a USGI barrel nut.
Great video. Keep up the awesome work.
The Geissele MCMR barrel nut wrench works on castle nuts and I think it works great. Allows you to stay close to the work piece.
BCM... not Geissele
Thanks this was a big help to me!
These tools by forward controls look pretty awesome. I like the gas block tool that is very useful
They are just so well thought out and done the RIGHT way.
@@nsz85 I bought a forward controls gas block tool this week just b/c of your video. It was really difficult to find one though.
You are the BEST
what's the idea behind putting aero shell grease on the buffer tube?
Grease on threads helps lubricate the threads and get a uniform torque among the threads and connections that is the idea behind motors. I believe it also applies in this application but not really needed. The buffer tube used to be made out of steel and to prevent galling (corrosion from dissimilar metals coming in contact, aluminum and steel), but alot of buffer tube are coated and made of aluminum i have never seen galling from the buffer tube but the mil spec build Bible says to use and it can't really hurt so alot of people still follow it.
molybdenum bisulfate is what the TM calls for (dry film) - anti galling
Excellent
question. how do you feel about the buffer retainer some people dont install it ie forgotten weapons
I install mine.
Ian is wrong
@@ericmckinley7985 interesting
@@ericmckinley7985 ya but have heard of this new captured buffer. its similar to an AK12, as the bolt goes into the receiver extension, it pushes heavy mass metal forward into that carrier center void or something using gears to cancel out a newton law. made by [Maxim] Soo sick. seen it on a different channel covering NRA convention. not listed YET
@@montanaspring7176 Gimmicky. Either make things less reliable, have shit QC, or be so underwhelming in its performance you'd never notice it despite the out-the-ass price.
🌟👍🇺🇦
Cant say i get the fcd hype. I own 2 pieces of thier products. Neither worked.
They make some great products I’d say. What pieces do you have?
FCD makes the best products on the market..You have other problems if they don't work..
Can I get a part list ?
As much Forward Controls Design as possible.
use red Loctite not aeroshell
LMAO absolutely not
No, use aeroshell, torque to 38 foot pounds and stake the castle nut in two places..
Red loctite on the RE threads is one of the dumbest things I’ve ever heard.