This was awesome. If you print the pawn in very low infill or even in vase mode you could really shrink the time to dissolve the plastic. I've been using your tips to electroplate statuettes and a doorknob I designed. The weight was definitely something I'm looking for and my solution was to simply leave cavities in the print, pause towards to top and insert pennies (around 75 cents worth) into it. It makes it extremely heavy and it's obviously very cheap! This makes it easier to electroplate as well as I don't have to fiddle with keeping the print submerged as it's heavy enough to sink on its own.
I was just pondering adding mass to a print by sneaking things into the infill, pennies definitely seem like a good easy option. Although do they jiggle/make noise? Any suggestions for that?
@@ZacDonald I have added BB's inside prints while printing to add weight, they can still be heard if shaken but maybe pouring in a bit of glue with them would stop this.
@@ZacDonald I would try adding a few dabs of epoxy when inserting the pennies. Actually, this brings to mind the idea of modeling custom pockets for random pieces of metal to simply epoxy into the printed part. For example, model out a pocket for a lug-nut I found on the road, epoxy it into the print, and electroplate with no need for melting any metal.
Ive dissolved prints out of plaster in the past; I think the trick is to make sure the solvent can reach everywhere quickly, and not have to go incrementally layer by layer. Use gyroid infill, and maybe poke a hole lengthwise. Even better if you could stick a pump in that hole for active circulation but i guess that is extra complication and mess so unless time is of essense, eh. Also the effect of dissolving plastic is very very temperature sensitive. At the very least do not leave it in your subzero garage. But I put my setup in my slowcooker. Now there is that thing of flammable liquids and boiling them and all; but that can be done safely. What I did was seal it from oxygen and add a long alu tube to leave room for vapors to expand and recondense; even with my pan on max all vapors recondensed at the very bottom. Using such an elevated temperature process, you can dissolve good old PLA like sugar in water, using ethyl-lactate. It has a nice and high boiling point at ambient pressure too. Its not the cheapest solvent, but if you catch your recondensed liquid in a seperate vessel, you can keep using it indefinitely.
You can find a bunch of pewter stuff to melt down at thrift shops and such. Might be a bit cheaper, and it can be melted on your kitchen stove. (Be aware that older pewter may contain lead)
Yes, absolutely. I just didn’t want to show melting potential lead contaminated stuff. 100% tin seemed the safest starting point for people who may want to try this. Lead is really bad stuff, so safety first. 🙃
Most of the Pewter in resale shops isn't actually pewter but alloys that look like it. Real Pewter is expensive so it usually gets bought up pretty quickly.
@@whtkngofc, the stuff I've seen a lot is actually an aluminum alloy of some type that is made to look like Pewter. Someone who knows metals can tell it right away by weight and sound. But most people that aren't familiar will likely mistake it. I have also seen some iron alloys of some type again made to look like Pewter. They are heavier and potentially harder to tell apart becuase of this. Then there is the Lead free Pewter which is just around that can be kinda hard to melt and cast depending on its composition. Potentially much to high for silicone casting unlike regular pewter. It might be different in different areas. That is just what I have found around me locally.
Awesome! If the intent is only to add weight, then you could simply drop in a few lead sinkers, and fill the rest with epoxy resin. This would make it strong, heavy, and no melting required.
You should try casting with Rose's alloy. It has a really low melting point and doesn't contract or expand much when it solidifies. It does have lead in it though.
Try zamak 3 alloy or another zinc alloy! It should melt in a cast iron pan with a little help from a blow torch or a really hot burner. Do it outside though. You can go over your daily required zinc intake from zinc fumes if you're not outside and wearing some kind of mask. Less toxic than those other low melt metals and very cheap. It's also quite strong for the volume. Better than cast aluminum.
That's what i want to try with this method. Creating strong and precise metal parts at home, without having to put the plaster mold in a 700 degrees celsius furnace for 12 hours -- sounds like a dream.
+ even more advantage over casting: unlike ZAMAK, copper could be easily electroplated with nickel or chromium for aesthetically pleasing finish and durability
Pewter is very cheap and easy found in thrift shops and 2nd hand stores. Its Mainly tin and has a low melting point. We use it to make babbitt for engines by adding lead to the pewter. It's found in old and cheap decorations as well as plates and tea/coffee sets. Can't hardly give it away in the states. A quick search will show you what it looks like
Thank you very much. Watched all of your videos. Thank you for the safety warnings in each of them. Some youtubers completely neglect them. It's a pleasure to see your safety concerns.
If you only want more weight then use Plaster of Paris as the filler and put a round piece of green felt on the bottom to cover and for protection of the surface you put it on. I had a couple of bookends made that way, plaster inside. They had a brass shell, thicker, and then plater inside for weight. If you wanted metal inside then I would use lead as it is very cheap and a low melting temperature. I like the the plating method. I will try it sometime.
Zamak a zinc based alloy with the addition of al, cu, and miniscule others is able to be melted with a gas hotplate. Has a similar cross sectional density as cast iron.
Never knew about PVB, will have to try it some time. Even PVA takes some agitating to get it to fall off on it's own. You could use lead for weight but I would seal the bottom and needs a bit more heat. I made an furnace for melting lead, copper, brass and aluminum out of a 5 gallon bucket and some kaowool, didn't cost much to build, uses a simple propane burner. I get lead when I go to the scrap yard, balancing weights off of car tires.
Very cool. Finally, a completely metal part! Kudos! If you want other metals to try, maybe bismuth or an alloy. It should be a bit cheaper. It melts just a little hotter than tin and one of the least toxic options (we're looking at you, lead). As for other projects: what about ways to add weight without casting metals: maybe filling with gypsum plaster, metal filled epoxy, etc.
Yes, I’d agree that bismuth is a good idea if you are after weight. It’s about 50% denser than tin, and its melting point is low (about 40 degrees above tin). Some bismuth alloys have much lower m.p. Plus it is much less toxic than lead. The only potential problem I can think of is that (IIRC) it actually expands slightly when it solidifies.
Really cool. You could also do a liquid sand cast over it, let it dry, burn out the plastic. Then pour metal inside the sand cast. Then bust open the sand to reveal the casting. They do this in large scale places but use wax instead of plastic. But should still work I think.
Amazing video as per usual, and such a clever idea! Would love to also see you revisit a general electroplating guide since you’ve learned and changed a bit since your original.
@@hen3drikas someone who recently got into electroplating after seeing your videos, I’m looking forward to it! haven’t quite gotten the amazing finish you manage yet
Very interesting. For weight, especially when I needed extra weight a certain spot, I have designed parts with a cavity in it. Pause the 3D print at the right spot, add hot glue, drop a steel ball bearing in, add more hot glue. Glue doesn't stick to the bearing but it does to the print. Just make sure the glue gun is on low temp. I've also added a thicker wall to the cavity to take the heat when close to an edge. I'm a mechanic, I take the balls out of used wheel bearings and axle shafts.
Just when I thought there is no way you can show even more incredible ideas than in your previous videos, here it is! Nice, clean and professional, as always. I just started setting up a space for electroforming 3D prints, and have been tinkering with what can be done easily in a DIY way (substitute materials for expensive chemicals, sometimes slouching on cleanliness and the not-so-fun parts like polishing etc.), and somehow it always seems to turn out that I get the best results if I follow exactly your instructions. :D Currently waiting for the same brand of copper paint you are using to arrive, I have high hopes for that to work much better than my current graphite spray solution. Keep it up, incredibly informative videos!
I love your approach, Im experimenting with metal casting myself (from Germany also) and this seems like an interesting approach to change the way molds could be produced.
Try lead-tin alloy. Lower melting point, better flow characteristics. Watch out for the fumes (do it outside), wash your hands after casting, do not use in stuff that's going to be used near acids (especially vinegar and ita vapor) or in food and drink contact. Lead is toxic, but as long as it is in its metallic or inorganic form it is not readily bioavailable.
Another metod that works very well to fill the parts and add the precise weight you want, is mixing small steel balls with wax. No need to melt metals, just enough heat to melt the wax.
Holy crap! Something I made is in a super cool youtube video. Thanks for posting the make on printables and linking to this epic video. Going to browse your other vids and then probably spend too much money on maker toys. Cheers!
An easy way to add weight only is to stop a print while the internal supports are still exposed, then fill with "heavy sand" then let the print finish. Use a magnet to clean up any spills.
Very nice work and outcome. You can speed up process. Just melt out plastic or burn it with 200(melt)-500(burn) degree stove. After melting you can make finish clean of the form with isopropanol but whole process would be faster. To keep copper form in place you can use sand casting of the outer volume.
Pretty awesome. However, AFAIK you are electroPLATING = covering the outside, with the reference surface being on the INside and the outside being undefined. *ElectroFORMING on the other hand is done in one or several NEGATIVE molds, with the copper deposition on the inside.* After separation from the mold, the outside of the metal parts is the exact copy of the reference surface = the inside of the mold. As depositing metal in deep cavities is more difficult to achieve, objects are typically broken up into several shallow "negatives". The resulting parts are then trimmed, soft-soldered together, then given another thin copper layer and finally (partially) filled with some low melting-point metal (usually containing Pb, Sn, Bi). After some final touches, a silver or nickel bath concludes the process. This process became popular in the 1850s for the (mass) production of decorative items and stayed in use until the 1990s for design prototyping before CNC milling of thin-walled metal and 3D printing became the standard. If you find "WMF" product boxes produced before the 2000s, their box shots of "stainless" items are usually pictures of electro-formed copper parts with nickel coating to resemble stainless material.
Thanks, that was step 1 cant wait to see others do like pla and do a burnout, and cast in like green sand and plaster.. Ive been eagerly waiting since i spoke with you about this idea. you should get many many more likes and exposure.
As an alternative to casting in tin - Wood's Metal is an alloy with a very low melting point - 158° F/70° C. compared to tin at 449.5°F/231.9°C. It also costs about half what tin does - I'm seeing 99% tin for USD 28.99/pound, and Wood's Metal for USD 15.59/pound or less. Given the low melting point, it's considerably safer - water left in the form won't boil on contact, throwing molten metal all over.
So glad I ran into this channel. I don't know if you'ld consider this but if you were to make a rundown of the cost of the materials and machines you use.. That would be great. :D
If all you need is more weight, it might just be better to find some small objects that you can embed in the print. Coins, fishing weights, sand, rocks, lead shot, and pinewood derby weights are all pretty. popular
Could be a way to fast prototype Aluminium Alloy parts for fit, before committing to CNC Machined parts. The model train community would definitely jump on this for making custom engines and carriages.
Pretty nice, I'm impressed by how well your electroplating solution is behaving! Is that a commercial solution or a handmade one? You were right when switching to current density as opposed to constant voltage. Constant voltage really shines when you have a large range of current density (2-8 A/dm² for instance).
You can try to fill it with epoxy resin with a lot of filler chalk mixed in. I casted some statues like this, heavy castings! You can try lead too... But always outside!
Hello. You have a very cool channel, a lot of useful information and practical advice !!!!! I want to write from myself - a very large part of modern SLA plastics perfectly withstand temperatures up to 150 degrees Celsius. At the same time, there are lead alloys with a melting point from 60 degrees to 120. This means that your process can be GREATLY simplified.
8f your main goal is to make them heavier there are much easier ways. First and easiest is to print solid / 100% infill (I print with resin, which is 12~15% heavier than water). But since resin can be expensive, you can still print hollow (with drain holes!) but after curing you can fill it with something heavies and dirt-cheap ... like sand for example :) ... and of course then close the holes, resin prints are best closed/glued with liquid resin in a small syringe (with needle for finest places) and then cure with UV flightlight (or laser for finer places). Liquid resin hardens in seconds under UV, and once its hardened you can put in your uv-oven (or in the Sun) for a bit longer. I don't have experience with fdm printing, but I'm sure the same can be achieved with it too, perhaps with different hollowing & gluing techniques.
I like this, hope u do more like it! :-) Im just a noob, but for more pure weight we used a special kinda plaster that is poured in liquid form and it hardened. It wasnt nomal plaster thogh, but a special kind that is a bit more expensive (but a lot cheaper then any metal, incl. lead which ofc is poison) and used by old dentists and goldsmiths. This kinda plaster is also much MUCH harder and heavier then normal plaster... But its not metal. We also nickel plated a few things.
You could prefill it with lead shot, which is much less costly than tin. Since the melting point of tin is higher than tin, there would be minimal offgassing of the lead, Might need to do it in layers.
You should preheat the copper shell for a proper pour, so that you can do it all at once. I've poured molten lead-free pewter at +-400°C in a resin print with 100% infill. Preheating helped a lot. The metal didn't react violently with the surface nor it has splashed everywhere. A silicone mold is another cheap alternative. BUT, you had the solution right in front of your eyes: you should have used the shell as melting pot, simple as that (the melting point of copper is 1,085°C)! Good job on the electroforming though, it's an awesome technique.
Thank you for the Tipps. These are great for people considering doing it right 😅. Yeah, there are many ways to do it, I always wanted to try out this version.
You can also cast with lead. Just get some old lead-acid batteries, you can melt them with a wood fuelled fire in a kitchen pot, I have done so in the past. Check whether it is legal to do where you live and besides a safety goggles, face shield, leather apron and gloves wear a good respirator. Just in case.
the electroplate is dope. Would probably work better with a resin print for more detail/surface finish. Using tin seems unnecessary, if the shell is metal, just fill with something heavy. Sand for ex.
that is awesome would be cool to see how it held up to higher melting point metals like steel.... cheapest way i can think to do this is with an induction bolt buster would allow you to melt small quantities for a few tests
Steel stops heating in induction heaters when it hits the Currie temperature. You need a graphite furnace (or a very high power high frequency induction heater)
And if you print with a resin printer, do a silicon mold of it, pour wax inside the mold, electroplate the wax copy, melt the wax and put the metal material inside you think it will work? It will be really interesting for have a superior surface quality of it and with higer resolution of details.
Looking specifically at Vader’s helmet, how did you manage to clean out all the plastic from the cheek guards and how did you manage to flow the tin into them? With the part upside down surely they would form air voids.
You could try some low melt plumbers metal, that melts below 100c (used to pack pipes before you bend them) also called bend metal with a 70c melting point
Zinc is cheaper than tin and can still be melted on a stove. It isn’t as pretty but if you keep your copper plate that won’t be an issue. Basically brass instead of bronze.
I’m allways surprised seen your work its very amazing this gives lots of how to it can make some 3d printed scale model car parts turn in to chrome sence there’s not that many options here in the USA from buying 1/10 scale chrome parts 👌🏻😎👍🏼💯
Coole Sache, genau mein Ding solche Experimente. Allerdings geht das ganze noch einfacher mit einer 5Achs Fräse. Dauert nicht länger, spart aber unheimlich Chemie und Aufwand Ach und: thank you for traveling with deutsche bahn
Really cool video, I‘ll definitely give this a try once I finally have a electroplating setup. Just one note: at 7:02 when you said it could be nickel plated, the „nickel“ sounded a lot like a very different word starting with n. I know it just sounded that way because it was said fast, but still something to be aware of as there is a chance that people might get mad over that.
Okay, so if you're going to buff off the copper anyway, why not just do an investment casting? Just like lost wax or lost PLA, once you have a plaster shell, you can dissolve the PLB out with ethanol, and continue just as with any other investment casting.
This was awesome. If you print the pawn in very low infill or even in vase mode you could really shrink the time to dissolve the plastic.
I've been using your tips to electroplate statuettes and a doorknob I designed. The weight was definitely something I'm looking for and my solution was to simply leave cavities in the print, pause towards to top and insert pennies (around 75 cents worth) into it. It makes it extremely heavy and it's obviously very cheap! This makes it easier to electroplate as well as I don't have to fiddle with keeping the print submerged as it's heavy enough to sink on its own.
Hehe, oh yeah, submerging is always a thing 😅
I was just pondering adding mass to a print by sneaking things into the infill, pennies definitely seem like a good easy option. Although do they jiggle/make noise? Any suggestions for that?
@@ZacDonald I have added BB's inside prints while printing to add weight, they can still be heard if shaken but maybe pouring in a bit of glue with them would stop this.
@@ZacDonald I would try adding a few dabs of epoxy when inserting the pennies. Actually, this brings to mind the idea of modeling custom pockets for random pieces of metal to simply epoxy into the printed part. For example, model out a pocket for a lug-nut I found on the road, epoxy it into the print, and electroplate with no need for melting any metal.
Ive dissolved prints out of plaster in the past; I think the trick is to make sure the solvent can reach everywhere quickly, and not have to go incrementally layer by layer. Use gyroid infill, and maybe poke a hole lengthwise. Even better if you could stick a pump in that hole for active circulation but i guess that is extra complication and mess so unless time is of essense, eh.
Also the effect of dissolving plastic is very very temperature sensitive. At the very least do not leave it in your subzero garage. But I put my setup in my slowcooker. Now there is that thing of flammable liquids and boiling them and all; but that can be done safely. What I did was seal it from oxygen and add a long alu tube to leave room for vapors to expand and recondense; even with my pan on max all vapors recondensed at the very bottom.
Using such an elevated temperature process, you can dissolve good old PLA like sugar in water, using ethyl-lactate. It has a nice and high boiling point at ambient pressure too. Its not the cheapest solvent, but if you catch your recondensed liquid in a seperate vessel, you can keep using it indefinitely.
You can find a bunch of pewter stuff to melt down at thrift shops and such. Might be a bit cheaper, and it can be melted on your kitchen stove. (Be aware that older pewter may contain lead)
Yes, absolutely. I just didn’t want to show melting potential lead contaminated stuff. 100% tin seemed the safest starting point for people who may want to try this. Lead is really bad stuff, so safety first. 🙃
Most of the Pewter in resale shops isn't actually pewter but alloys that look like it. Real Pewter is expensive so it usually gets bought up pretty quickly.
@@hen3drik 'twould be interesting to see if it 'survives' the 650F. thermal load....
@@TrollFaceTheMan depends on antimony and tin content, less lead
@@whtkngofc, the stuff I've seen a lot is actually an aluminum alloy of some type that is made to look like Pewter. Someone who knows metals can tell it right away by weight and sound.
But most people that aren't familiar will likely mistake it.
I have also seen some iron alloys of some type again made to look like Pewter. They are heavier and potentially harder to tell apart becuase of this.
Then there is the Lead free Pewter which is just around that can be kinda hard to melt and cast depending on its composition.
Potentially much to high for silicone casting unlike regular pewter. It might be different in different areas. That is just what I have found around me locally.
Awesome! If the intent is only to add weight, then you could simply drop in a few lead sinkers, and fill the rest with epoxy resin. This would make it strong, heavy, and no melting required.
Or just stuff it with JB weld, depending on whether or not you want a more uniform mass distribution.
I would suggest lead pellets or even small rocks, and casting resin.
You should try casting with Rose's alloy. It has a really low melting point and doesn't contract or expand much when it solidifies. It does have lead in it though.
There's also a Tin/Bismuth alloy out there that melts at 274F if you want to avoid Lead. Should be able to poor it into a PETG or PC mold.
Haha, finally sb. who knows their stuff!
Try zamak 3 alloy or another zinc alloy! It should melt in a cast iron pan with a little help from a blow torch or a really hot burner. Do it outside though. You can go over your daily required zinc intake from zinc fumes if you're not outside and wearing some kind of mask. Less toxic than those other low melt metals and very cheap. It's also quite strong for the volume. Better than cast aluminum.
That's what i want to try with this method. Creating strong and precise metal parts at home, without having to put the plaster mold in a 700 degrees celsius furnace for 12 hours -- sounds like a dream.
+ even more advantage over casting: unlike ZAMAK, copper could be easily electroplated with nickel or chromium for aesthetically pleasing finish and durability
Pewter is very cheap and easy found in thrift shops and 2nd hand stores. Its Mainly tin and has a low melting point. We use it to make babbitt for engines by adding lead to the pewter. It's found in old and cheap decorations as well as plates and tea/coffee sets. Can't hardly give it away in the states. A quick search will show you what it looks like
Thank you very much. Watched all of your videos. Thank you for the safety warnings in each of them. Some youtubers completely neglect them. It's a pleasure to see your safety concerns.
I love these experiments! Keep it up!
Yes, Sir!
If you only want more weight then use Plaster of Paris as the filler and put a round piece of green felt on the bottom to cover and for protection of the surface you put it on. I had a couple of bookends made that way, plaster inside. They had a brass shell, thicker, and then plater inside for weight. If you wanted metal inside then I would use lead as it is very cheap and a low melting temperature.
I like the the plating method. I will try it sometime.
Zamak a zinc based alloy with the addition of al, cu, and miniscule others is able to be melted with a gas hotplate. Has a similar cross sectional density as cast iron.
Never knew about PVB, will have to try it some time. Even PVA takes some agitating to get it to fall off on it's own. You could use lead for weight but I would seal the bottom and needs a bit more heat. I made an furnace for melting lead, copper, brass and aluminum out of a 5 gallon bucket and some kaowool, didn't cost much to build, uses a simple propane burner. I get lead when I go to the scrap yard, balancing weights off of car tires.
Very cool. Finally, a completely metal part! Kudos!
If you want other metals to try, maybe bismuth or an alloy. It should be a bit cheaper. It melts just a little hotter than tin and one of the least toxic options (we're looking at you, lead).
As for other projects: what about ways to add weight without casting metals: maybe filling with gypsum plaster, metal filled epoxy, etc.
Гипс (клеящий гипсовый состав, с ним удобнее работать) вполне годится, можно добавить железную или медную проволоку для веса
В жидкий гипс, для утяжеления, можно добавить металлические шарики, чтобы не плавить металлы
Yes, I’d agree that bismuth is a good idea if you are after weight. It’s about 50% denser than tin, and its melting point is low (about 40 degrees above tin). Some bismuth alloys have much lower m.p.
Plus it is much less toxic than lead.
The only potential problem I can think of is that (IIRC) it actually expands slightly when it solidifies.
Really cool. You could also do a liquid sand cast over it, let it dry, burn out the plastic. Then pour metal inside the sand cast. Then bust open the sand to reveal the casting. They do this in large scale places but use wax instead of plastic. But should still work I think.
Dude do you have a link to how to do this? I am looking into doing something similar and always looking for different techniques
Please show video
Saw it on how it's made like 12 years ago. Not sure how to find video.
Amazing video as per usual, and such a clever idea! Would love to also see you revisit a general electroplating guide since you’ve learned and changed a bit since your original.
Absolutely. That‘s why I don’t link the legacy video. Stay tuned 😉
@@hen3drikas someone who recently got into electroplating after seeing your videos, I’m looking forward to it!
haven’t quite gotten the amazing finish you manage yet
Just a matter of time
WOW the details are all there 100% :0
Very interesting.
For weight, especially when I needed extra weight a certain spot, I have designed parts with a cavity in it. Pause the 3D print at the right spot, add hot glue, drop a steel ball bearing in, add more hot glue. Glue doesn't stick to the bearing but it does to the print.
Just make sure the glue gun is on low temp. I've also added a thicker wall to the cavity to take the heat when close to an edge. I'm a mechanic, I take the balls out of used wheel bearings and axle shafts.
Like this? 😉
ua-cam.com/users/shortsJD-r2oOXT-0?feature=share
Just when I thought there is no way you can show even more incredible ideas than in your previous videos, here it is! Nice, clean and professional, as always.
I just started setting up a space for electroforming 3D prints, and have been tinkering with what can be done easily in a DIY way (substitute materials for expensive chemicals, sometimes slouching on cleanliness and the not-so-fun parts like polishing etc.), and somehow it always seems to turn out that I get the best results if I follow exactly your instructions. :D Currently waiting for the same brand of copper paint you are using to arrive, I have high hopes for that to work much better than my current graphite spray solution.
Keep it up, incredibly informative videos!
Thank you for your kind words! I wish you luck. Don’t get rid off the graphite yet. ;-)
Absolutely love how thorough and detailed your explanations are, thank you for your channel
Thank you for your comment!
Thank you for this video! This is exactly the process I have been dreaming of.
glad you like it.
I love your approach, Im experimenting with metal casting myself (from Germany also) and this seems like an interesting approach to change the way molds could be produced.
You should try casting Zamak. It has a nice, low pouring temperature compared to aluminum.
Try lead-tin alloy. Lower melting point, better flow characteristics. Watch out for the fumes (do it outside), wash your hands after casting, do not use in stuff that's going to be used near acids (especially vinegar and ita vapor) or in food and drink contact.
Lead is toxic, but as long as it is in its metallic or inorganic form it is not readily bioavailable.
Maybe just use lead and then cap it off with tin?
@@ET_AYY_LMAO can be done, but lead is slightly more viscous and doesn't alloy easily with copper
@@robertotomasini2072 Use a little solder flux and it will probably wick to the copper just fine.
Another metod that works very well to fill the parts and add the precise weight you want, is mixing small steel balls with wax. No need to melt metals, just enough heat to melt the wax.
Holy crap! Something I made is in a super cool youtube video. Thanks for posting the make on printables and linking to this epic video. Going to browse your other vids and then probably spend too much money on maker toys. Cheers!
You can actually cast aluminium with a microwave forge if you want a cheaper metal
You sir, are an absolute inspiration!
An easy way to add weight only is to stop a print while the internal supports are still exposed, then fill with "heavy sand" then let the print finish. Use a magnet to clean up any spills.
Very nice video man. This is a form of metal casting one could actually do without burning down the house. Thank you!
very nice. Thanks for the details on the electroplating currents
Very nice work and outcome.
You can speed up process. Just melt out plastic or burn it with 200(melt)-500(burn) degree stove. After melting you can make finish clean of the form with isopropanol but whole process would be faster. To keep copper form in place you can use sand casting of the outer volume.
This seems really neat.
I love this!
Pretty awesome. However, AFAIK you are electroPLATING = covering the outside, with the reference surface being on the INside and the outside being undefined. *ElectroFORMING on the other hand is done in one or several NEGATIVE molds, with the copper deposition on the inside.* After separation from the mold, the outside of the metal parts is the exact copy of the reference surface = the inside of the mold. As depositing metal in deep cavities is more difficult to achieve, objects are typically broken up into several shallow "negatives". The resulting parts are then trimmed, soft-soldered together, then given another thin copper layer and finally (partially) filled with some low melting-point metal (usually containing Pb, Sn, Bi). After some final touches, a silver or nickel bath concludes the process.
This process became popular in the 1850s for the (mass) production of decorative items and stayed in use until the 1990s for design prototyping before CNC milling of thin-walled metal and 3D printing became the standard. If you find "WMF" product boxes produced before the 2000s, their box shots of "stainless" items are usually pictures of electro-formed copper parts with nickel coating to resemble stainless material.
Thanks, that was step 1 cant wait to see others do like pla and do a burnout, and cast in like green sand and plaster.. Ive been eagerly waiting since i spoke with you about this idea. you should get many many more likes and exposure.
As an alternative to casting in tin -
Wood's Metal is an alloy with a very low melting point - 158° F/70° C. compared to tin at 449.5°F/231.9°C.
It also costs about half what tin does - I'm seeing 99% tin for USD 28.99/pound, and Wood's Metal for USD 15.59/pound or less.
Given the low melting point, it's considerably safer - water left in the form won't boil on contact, throwing molten metal all over.
So glad I ran into this channel. I don't know if you'ld consider this but if you were to make a rundown of the cost of the materials and machines you use.. That would be great. :D
If all you need is more weight, it might just be better to find some small objects that you can embed in the print. Coins, fishing weights, sand, rocks, lead shot, and pinewood derby weights are all pretty. popular
Excellent! Subbed!
Could be a way to fast prototype Aluminium Alloy parts for fit, before committing to CNC Machined parts. The model train community would definitely jump on this for making custom engines and carriages.
Pretty nice, I'm impressed by how well your electroplating solution is behaving! Is that a commercial solution or a handmade one?
You were right when switching to current density as opposed to constant voltage. Constant voltage really shines when you have a large range of current density (2-8 A/dm² for instance).
I‘m always fighting field density 😅. It‘s a commercial acidic pH1 bath that I maintain regularly.
1 million likes for this video!!!
You can try to fill it with epoxy resin with a lot of filler chalk mixed in. I casted some statues like this, heavy castings! You can try lead too... But always outside!
THIS IS BRILLIANT!! i was wondering, if youvreversed the terminals on the copper bath then you would have a pure tin part ?
Sooner or later, yes
Your an absolute legend, thanks!
Hello. You have a very cool channel, a lot of useful information and practical advice !!!!! I want to write from myself - a very large part of modern SLA plastics perfectly withstand temperatures up to 150 degrees Celsius. At the same time, there are lead alloys with a melting point from 60 degrees to 120. This means that your process can be GREATLY simplified.
Fantastic video and thank you for the feature!
Thunk you so much this was to halpfull
Amazing!
A very interesting technique. Thank you.
8f your main goal is to make them heavier there are much easier ways. First and easiest is to print solid / 100% infill (I print with resin, which is 12~15% heavier than water).
But since resin can be expensive, you can still print hollow (with drain holes!) but after curing you can fill it with something heavies and dirt-cheap ... like sand for example :)
... and of course then close the holes, resin prints are best closed/glued with liquid resin in a small syringe (with needle for finest places) and then cure with UV flightlight (or laser for finer places). Liquid resin hardens in seconds under UV, and once its hardened you can put in your uv-oven (or in the Sun) for a bit longer.
I don't have experience with fdm printing, but I'm sure the same can be achieved with it too, perhaps with different hollowing & gluing techniques.
Aluminum might work as well as tin. And aluminum is cheap. Making a furnace is pretty easy.
Looking forward to trying this out, thank you for the awesome video!!
He was Polishing Vader's Helmet 😆
Very cool I hope you explore this more
Great work!
I like this, hope u do more like it! :-) Im just a noob, but for more pure weight we used a special kinda plaster that is poured in liquid form and it hardened. It wasnt nomal plaster thogh, but a special kind that is a bit more expensive (but a lot cheaper then any metal, incl. lead which ofc is poison) and used by old dentists and goldsmiths. This kinda plaster is also much MUCH harder and heavier then normal plaster... But its not metal. We also nickel plated a few things.
this is verry cool
Ferromagnetic filament such as Protopasta Magnetic Iron-filled Metal Composite PLA is one way to make things heavy.... fairly expensive, though.
Totally... Freakin'... Awesome 🤘🤘
If you live in the USA goto rotometals. They have all sorts of lead and non lead babbitt materials.
Omg! Genius! Thanks for sharing
You could prefill it with lead shot, which is much less costly than tin. Since the melting point of tin is higher than tin, there would be minimal offgassing of the lead, Might need to do it in layers.
You should preheat the copper shell for a proper pour, so that you can do it all at once. I've poured molten lead-free pewter at +-400°C in a resin print with 100% infill. Preheating helped a lot. The metal didn't react violently with the surface nor it has splashed everywhere.
A silicone mold is another cheap alternative.
BUT, you had the solution right in front of your eyes: you should have used the shell as melting pot, simple as that (the melting point of copper is 1,085°C)!
Good job on the electroforming though, it's an awesome technique.
Thank you for the Tipps. These are great for people considering doing it right 😅. Yeah, there are many ways to do it, I always wanted to try out this version.
Lead free solder may work (get the type for solder pots that dies not include flux)
Lead free solder is usually a Tin alloy, so it will most likely be even more expensive than tin bars for casting and soldering.
You can also cast with lead. Just get some old lead-acid batteries, you can melt them with a wood fuelled fire in a kitchen pot, I have done so in the past. Check whether it is legal to do where you live and besides a safety goggles, face shield, leather apron and gloves wear a good respirator. Just in case.
the electroplate is dope. Would probably work better with a resin print for more detail/surface finish. Using tin seems unnecessary, if the shell is metal, just fill with something heavy. Sand for ex.
that is awesome would be cool to see how it held up to higher melting point metals like steel.... cheapest way i can think to do this is with an induction bolt buster would allow you to melt small quantities for a few tests
Steel stops heating in induction heaters when it hits the Currie temperature. You need a graphite furnace (or a very high power high frequency induction heater)
Be keen to see this done on a lightsaber, you can incorporate copper plating, nickel plating and rubber coating.
Oh, you‘re very close!
I usually fill plaster (or is it called gypsum? keine Ahnung) into my prints to increase weight. Could be a cool combination
Yeah, totally legit. I‘ll try it.
plate with nickle first so it doesnt oxidize. Also try pouring in bismuth
And if you print with a resin printer, do a silicon mold of it, pour wax inside the mold, electroplate the wax copy, melt the wax and put the metal material inside you think it will work? It will be really interesting for have a superior surface quality of it and with higer resolution of details.
If all you want to do is add weight, how about sand or powdered metal plus epoxy. Or cement?
Why PVB and IPA over ABS and Acetone?
For a tin source, use pewter, either new or recycled cups/mugs etc :)
Looking specifically at Vader’s helmet, how did you manage to clean out all the plastic from the cheek guards and how did you manage to flow the tin into them? With the part upside down surely they would form air voids.
Lead Is cheaper and melts also easily. It melts even lower tempo with some solder inside
Nice technique i'm interested to try! If you just want to cast thin, just use red silicon by the way.
Such a cool video
You could try some low melt plumbers metal, that melts below 100c (used to pack pipes before you bend them) also called bend metal with a 70c melting point
Even more expensive than Tin though.
Cool stuff
To remove the plastic quicker, can you use a hot air gun / hot air station or oven? Seems like the plastic would melt before the plating
Zink is cheap and you can melt it on charcoal grill ;-)
Zinc is cheaper than tin and can still be melted on a stove. It isn’t as pretty but if you keep your copper plate that won’t be an issue. Basically brass instead of bronze.
Lead would be another metal to try.
Finally you made this video! Thanks a lot. How strong is the shell alone? Is it like a Coca Cola can or something? Or stronger?
It‘s comparable to a can, yes. Delicate but quite strong at the same time :-)
@@hen3drik Nice. Thanks for the info. Truly inspirational video to me.
I’m allways surprised seen your work its very amazing this gives lots of how to it can make some 3d printed scale model car parts turn in to chrome sence there’s not that many options here in the USA from buying 1/10 scale chrome parts 👌🏻😎👍🏼💯
very nice
Coole Sache, genau mein Ding solche Experimente. Allerdings geht das ganze noch einfacher mit einer 5Achs Fräse. Dauert nicht länger, spart aber unheimlich Chemie und Aufwand
Ach und: thank you for traveling with deutsche bahn
Wonderful experiment. Probably unsuitable for lange scale production (many or large objects) but nevertheless a great idea!
Thanks, yeah, it quickly becomes challenging as the copper is delicate and probably would cave in a bit
The end product looks kinda silver. Could the tin be diffusing through the copper? Dont you add tin to copper to make bronze?
have you thought of using bismuth? low melting point :)
Really cool video, I‘ll definitely give this a try once I finally have a electroplating setup.
Just one note: at 7:02 when you said it could be nickel plated, the „nickel“ sounded a lot like a very different word starting with n. I know it just sounded that way because it was said fast, but still something to be aware of as there is a chance that people might get mad over that.
You've never nigga plated your 3d prints?
Okay, so if you're going to buff off the copper anyway, why not just do an investment casting? Just like lost wax or lost PLA, once you have a plaster shell, you can dissolve the PLB out with ethanol, and continue just as with any other investment casting.
Bismuth alloys would have the same effect as tin and melt at under 100C
have you considered running a piece through the walnut tumble polisher before running it through the vapor polisher for maximum smoothness ?
im a little bit curious what did you use for the conductive paint? ive been looking for conductive paint for a bit and haven't really found anything.
Could this work with aluminium as the casting metal? Seems like it wouldn’t be able to melt the copper electroplating?
Yes, Aluminium should work.
@@hen3drikthe ramifications for die casting mould making is unbelievable!
Where did you get the vapor smoothing machine?
From polymaker. It works with pvb. They also sell their pvb called polysmooth.
Could you do a exact outside dimensions measurement of the print to the plated print?
23.15mm (printed) vs. 23.45mm (electroformed) -> 0.3mm/2 = 0.15mm Cu Thickness
Very cool, you do great work, I wish I could get my electroplating half as well as yours. What about pewter for metal substitute?
I think it would work quite well!
7:02 😳