A tip for you. I am using a LXD55 10 inch scope on one of the first Orion Atlas EQG mounts made when they first came out around the year 2000. In PHD2 guiding my guiding is usual around 1.4 to 1.7 arc seconds. and the mount is still going strong. One thing you can do to help with balance is turn your tube assembly in t's cradle wiith the camera down in line to to declination axis. This helps keeps the balance point always centered where if sticking out one side the balance point will change as the scope tracks across the sky,
Yes that's one of the first things I did. If you watch any of my later upgrade videos you'll see I'm tracking at 0.9 average now. But thanks for watching and the input is appreciated.
@@jameshannon2980. Scope is an SN8. I know it’s confusing since since LXD55 lettering is on the OTA, but it’s actually the mount that that scope is shipped with that has the model # LXD55.
Nice work. I still drag my SN8 out every now and then that I’ve had since 2004. I hyper tuned the LXD75 that came with my mount and it still works fine, but I’m more likely to use my Atlas EQG with the SN8. The LXD75 works great for my Coronado PST though. :)
Nice results. It's great when we can achieve good results in astrophotography without breaking the bank. You could capture more nebulosity if you have your DSLR modified (or if you get an used DSLR body and do the mod by yourself, if you don't like the idea of opening up your current camera). Keep up the good work. Clear skies!
Great video,great pictures. I to on a lower budget. I have the lxd75 10in. Just recently, I finally got the hypertune, belt drive,in ground pillar done after having for about a yr. Been using as a dob for visual so far nice to see what is possible with the smit-Newtonian. Was wondering is you have tried the blue Ghost collimation technic. So far I have only done visual. It's a rabbit hole for correct collimation but definitely a big difference. I don't find many people that have tried it chasing it. It's rather difficult. Clear skys happy hunting.
I sent my mirrors to an optics lab that had a sale for $88 for my 6" mirrors to be re-coated. They tested my mirror and found an anomaly which didn't surprise me, but offered me a great price to refigure the mirror. Well they aluminized both my mirrors to 96-97% reflectivity and my Strehl ratio of .986 with 1.00 being perfect. It was such a good view I bought a Crayford dual speed focuser myself. I was extremely happy. I have a manual mount for my C6-N Newtonian f5 as I can't afford $1200 for a decent computerized mount. You took better pictures than I did with .50 second exposures, but I get good views which is what I really care about, the Moon is like I could reach out and touch it.
@@whyf16uy I hear you. I bought the Crayford and cut out the opening myself since I worked my way through college by working in my brother's sheetmetal shop and I could make my own tube if I needed to. lol
Beautiful... I too, used some 3Dprinter drivers, Servos and an Arduino to get mine tracking... wrote my own optical tracking app for it, even got a phone app for controlling the scope movement on the fly, going , through BT.
Love this, I have been Shooting with my lens, and just picked up a Redcat-51 (used). I am waiting on my guide cam to come in and will be using that, along with a pi4 I have with PHD2 for guiding. When you say you tuned the backlash out of the mount, what does that process look like?
I like your approach and use of older gear to get such great results. Proof that you don't need to break the bank. BTW, I bought a used Starhopper 8" dob for $50 one month ago and it's been rainy, cloudy and snowy since I made the purchase. Clouds do Suck!
You’ve got a great start! I started this Feb. I have a canon 6D, Svbony 70mm scope and Star Adventure 2i tracker. You didn’t mention using filter. I have an optolong L-enhance and it’s great for bortle 8/9. You would get more details out Rosette, Horsehead and Orion. I just purchased Idas NBZ (equivalent to optolong L-extreme) which much better than L-enhance. I can’t wait to shoot Rosette, Horsehead and Orion this winter. Also, I ordered ASIAIR Plus, guide scope and cam. Hopefully, I can shoot longer exposure with lower ISO.
I bought the MiniESP3 from www.stmbluepillkits.com/p/miniesp3-this-controller-is-based-on.html. It is an SMD board that is pre-assembled. I just had to solder the stepper drivers. Join the OnStep group and any question you have can be answered. They are awesome and the instructions are very detailed and easy to understand. I'm not using a laptop at the moment. It's a small form factor Lenovo Thinkcenter mounted on the mount leg. Cor i5 8 gigs of ram and 480 gig SSD, windows 10. I remote desktop to it from inside my house. Hope this helps.
Hi there you've got some great results with the set up you have, another free program to have is starnet2 as you can remove the stars stretch the nebula then add them back afterwards, that way the stars don't get blown out if that makes sense although I wouldn't know how to do it in Gimp as I use an old version of Photoshop but I'm sure the technique would be very similar. Another thing I've noticed is that you have the camera on the side of the scope, if you rotate the scope in the tube so the camera faces down you may find it easier to balance & also it may track better to. One last thing for when you're shooting emission nebulas is if you can afford it get yourself a dual band filter as not only will it cut through the light pollution but the nebulas themselves will literally pop, for years I just shot broadband at a darksite & yeah you could see the nebulas but just by using these filters the difference is quite literally stunning, you may need to take longer subs as never tried unguided imaging using one but I would think at F4 90 to 120 seconds should manage it. I've subbed to your channel to so look forward to seeing your progress 🙂
I have downloaded the mac version of Starnet++ and have been messing around with it. Thanks for the tip about camera placement. I am saving up for my next purchase of an SVBONY CLS clip-in filter.
@@whyf16uy I look forward to seeing the results strangely enough I've been drawn towards the same scope that you're using I know the focusers are useless & the one I've got my eye on is getting an upgrade so you never know I may be going down the same route, clear skies 🙂
I recently bought the 10’. Great tips ! So ty
Nice!
love the background music and your results! just bought my 10" old starfinder :D trying to figure out my ways around it!
Thanks. Can't wait to see what you can do
A tip for you. I am using a LXD55 10 inch scope on one of the first Orion Atlas EQG mounts made when they first came out around the year 2000. In PHD2 guiding my guiding is usual around 1.4 to 1.7 arc seconds. and the mount is still going strong. One thing you can do to help with balance is turn your tube assembly in t's cradle wiith the camera down in line to to declination axis. This helps keeps the balance point always centered where if sticking out one side the balance point will change as the scope tracks across the sky,
Yes that's one of the first things I did. If you watch any of my later upgrade videos you'll see I'm tracking at 0.9 average now. But thanks for watching and the input is appreciated.
Should have known you knew that. Those old LXD55's are good scopes and like you when you replace the original mount they are great scopes.
@jameshannon2980 yes I replaced the focuser and it is a great scope (there's a video 😀)
@@jameshannon2980. Scope is an SN8. I know it’s confusing since since LXD55 lettering is on the OTA, but it’s actually the mount that that scope is shipped with that has the model # LXD55.
Nice work. I still drag my SN8 out every now and then that I’ve had since 2004. I hyper tuned the LXD75 that came with my mount and it still works fine, but I’m more likely to use my Atlas EQG with the SN8. The LXD75 works great for my Coronado PST though. :)
Nice. Check out my latest videos on the harmonic drive mount I built. Working very well.
Nice results. It's great when we can achieve good results in astrophotography without breaking the bank. You could capture more nebulosity if you have your DSLR modified (or if you get an used DSLR body and do the mod by yourself, if you don't like the idea of opening up your current camera). Keep up the good work. Clear skies!
I'm probably going to attempt the modification soon. DIY is what I'm about.
Great video,great pictures. I to on a lower budget. I have the lxd75 10in. Just recently, I finally got the hypertune, belt drive,in ground pillar done after having for about a yr. Been using as a dob for visual so far nice to see what is possible with the smit-Newtonian. Was wondering is you have tried the blue Ghost collimation technic. So far I have only done visual. It's a rabbit hole for correct collimation but definitely a big difference. I don't find many people that have tried it chasing it. It's rather difficult. Clear skys happy hunting.
@charlesburks3988 thanks so much. You should check out some of my latest videos if you want to see what a little DIY and not a lot of money can do.
Just found channel subscribed been looking. Great stuff. I'm definitely a tinkerer
I sent my mirrors to an optics lab that had a sale for $88 for my 6" mirrors to be re-coated. They tested my mirror and found an anomaly which didn't surprise me, but offered me a great price to refigure the mirror. Well they aluminized both my mirrors to 96-97% reflectivity and my Strehl ratio of .986 with 1.00 being perfect. It was such a good view I bought a Crayford dual speed focuser myself. I was extremely happy. I have a manual mount for my C6-N Newtonian f5 as I can't afford $1200 for a decent computerized mount.
You took better pictures than I did with .50 second exposures, but I get good views which is what I really care about, the Moon is like I could reach out and touch it.
The hobby is all about what we enjoy. I also can't afford the big dollar mounts. That's why I DIY.
@@whyf16uy I hear you. I bought the Crayford and cut out the opening myself since I worked my way through college by working in my brother's sheetmetal shop and I could make my own tube if I needed to. lol
ua-cam.com/video/1Y4xUHcpJS0/v-deo.html same
Lovely results. Shows what can be achieved with an old scope and a little updating know how.
And not a lot of cash
I like your slower paced style in your videos and the quality. I'm now subscribed!
Hey thanks. My daughter tells me I have a "Fun With Flags" vibe 😁
I just picked up a SN10 OTA. It’s also in very rough shape. Planning to put some time and money into it.
Nice! Keep us up to date. What kind of mount are you putting that monster on?
@@whyf16uy I have a Celestron CGEM.
Nice work.
Neat!
great work also just starting out so nice work hope i can get results like yours
I've found you just keep at it. You learn something new every time.
Great results and nice to hear of someone using their own diy skills instead of buying the latest red shiny kit, (must be my age!!)
Probably close
Beautiful... I too, used some 3Dprinter drivers, Servos and an Arduino to get mine tracking... wrote my own optical tracking app for it, even got a phone app for controlling the scope movement on the fly, going , through BT.
Nice! I'm impressed.
Love this, I have been Shooting with my lens, and just picked up a Redcat-51 (used). I am waiting on my guide cam to come in and will be using that, along with a pi4 I have with PHD2 for guiding.
When you say you tuned the backlash out of the mount, what does that process look like?
Adjusting the worm gear so it is very close to the ring gear but does not bind. It takes a lot of fiddling.
Good video. I wish they still made this telescope.
Oldie but goodie
your video helped me fall asleep last night
Glad l could help
I like your approach and use of older gear to get such great results. Proof that you don't need to break the bank. BTW, I bought a used Starhopper 8" dob for $50 one month ago and it's been rainy, cloudy and snowy since I made the purchase. Clouds do Suck!
Yup I'm right in the middle of a project and it started to snow here. Been that way for a week. Hope you have fun with the Dob.
You’ve got a great start! I started this Feb. I have a canon 6D, Svbony 70mm scope and Star Adventure 2i tracker. You didn’t mention using filter. I have an optolong L-enhance and it’s great for bortle 8/9. You would get more details out Rosette, Horsehead and Orion. I just purchased Idas NBZ (equivalent to optolong L-extreme) which much better than L-enhance. I can’t wait to shoot Rosette, Horsehead and Orion this winter. Also, I ordered ASIAIR Plus, guide scope and cam. Hopefully, I can shoot longer exposure with lower ISO.
I do have an SVBony CLS filter now. Check out some of my other videos to see the results
Isn't it a maksutov newt.
Meade calls it a Schmidt Newtonian. The model number is SN8. I think mak's are shorter so the corrector plate is profiled differently.
I’m interested to know how you put your controller together and some spec’s on the laptop.
I bought the MiniESP3 from www.stmbluepillkits.com/p/miniesp3-this-controller-is-based-on.html. It is an SMD board that is pre-assembled. I just had to solder the stepper drivers. Join the OnStep group and any question you have can be answered. They are awesome and the instructions are very detailed and easy to understand. I'm not using a laptop at the moment. It's a small form factor Lenovo Thinkcenter mounted on the mount leg. Cor i5 8 gigs of ram and 480 gig SSD, windows 10. I remote desktop to it from inside my house. Hope this helps.
Hi there you've got some great results with the set up you have, another free program to have is starnet2 as you can remove the stars stretch the nebula then add them back afterwards, that way the stars don't get blown out if that makes sense although I wouldn't know how to do it in Gimp as I use an old version of Photoshop but I'm sure the technique would be very similar.
Another thing I've noticed is that you have the camera on the side of the scope, if you rotate the scope in the tube so the camera faces down you may find it easier to balance & also it may track better to.
One last thing for when you're shooting emission nebulas is if you can afford it get yourself a dual band filter as not only will it cut through the light pollution but the nebulas themselves will literally pop, for years I just shot broadband at a darksite & yeah you could see the nebulas but just by using these filters the difference is quite literally stunning, you may need to take longer subs as never tried unguided imaging using one but I would think at F4 90 to 120 seconds should manage it.
I've subbed to your channel to so look forward to seeing your progress 🙂
I have downloaded the mac version of Starnet++ and have been messing around with it. Thanks for the tip about camera placement. I am saving up for my next purchase of an SVBONY CLS clip-in filter.
@@whyf16uy I look forward to seeing the results strangely enough I've been drawn towards the same scope that you're using I know the focusers are useless & the one I've got my eye on is getting an upgrade so you never know I may be going down the same route,
clear skies 🙂
Do you have a link to the focuser you used?
Yes but unfortunately it says it's unavailable www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BJ2FFZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1