I love your circle lightfast swatches. It’s so much easier to see the difference in fading when it’s surrounded by color, instead of a side-by-side half-faded stripe of color.
This is an awesome video! Definitely need to try making my own pigment sometime, this looks like a fun activity to try with my daughter. Thanks for sharing
@@KJodiGear i have an urge to figure out how to make marbled paper with the clay/earth pigments…using natural materials from local sources…so kinda rules out the seaweed thickener…any thoughts?
no instability in the ochres. They are lightfast. I have started playing with changing the color of some of them with heat. (Which is historically how burnt umber and burnt sienna were made.)
So pretty a design when your using the glass thing with "Lake" on the glass, if could frame that on a wall. Use dyes for wool and cotton, but read if laked, wont work on cotton later. Am researching what else besides alum works for laking, and you use calcium carb(chalk), but read of bismuth (thought of buying it at dollarstore). If you changed that pH, would your pigment colors have changed? So many interesting things you show !!
@aliveandwell early on, i experimented with changing the pH of the dye to get a different color, then doing the laking process, and found that if I made the dye too acidic, the laking process didn’t work. Sometimes the process completely changes the color on its own - I have a couple of purple leafed trees and the dye is purple, but when you add the sodium carbonate, the lake pigment turns green.
@@KJodiGear think to dye wool from a lake, acid is added (so called a split lake)(wish worked on cotton fabric also, will try painting on fabric, then after mordant)
@@KJodiGear just found this by M Garcia on chem of Al in clay, think is saying using lime or ashes to make useable?! ua-cam.com/video/VDotxdgFdYA/v-deo.html You have clear information on your videos
The iron oxide/hydroxide earth pigments are light-fast. So rocks that you find that are soft enough to grind will make a light-fast paint. The color/dye you get from plants (the botanical pigments) will not be light-fast. Some will last longer than others, but they will all fade in UV light.
Thanks for this video, super informative, I can’t wait to give this a try!
I love your circle lightfast swatches. It’s so much easier to see the difference in fading when it’s surrounded by color, instead of a side-by-side half-faded stripe of color.
Yes, I agree. And having a bunch of paper punches from other projects made these lightfastness swatches easy to make!
Your videos deserve more views
Just informative and overall entertaining
Very interesting. I learned a great deal from your video.
This is an awesome video! Definitely need to try making my own pigment sometime, this looks like a fun activity to try with my daughter.
Thanks for sharing
I think i finally understand this process! Thank you….
Glad it was helpful!
@@KJodiGear i have an urge to figure out how to make marbled paper with the clay/earth pigments…using natural materials from local sources…so kinda rules out the seaweed thickener…any thoughts?
@woodsiastudio Do you follow Skye on instagram? @aequoreamarbling She will know.
Very interesting. But why do you also put the green parts? Do they change the color any? I'm going g to have to try this, it looks like a fun project!
The small amounts of green in with these yellow flowers don't really change the color, so it doesn't matter if they go in the dye bath too.
the earth pigments or ochres we forage are supposed to last long, but have you experienced some of them being unstable as well, thank you.
no instability in the ochres. They are lightfast. I have started playing with changing the color of some of them with heat. (Which is historically how burnt umber and burnt sienna were made.)
So pretty a design when your using the glass thing with "Lake" on the glass, if could frame that on a wall. Use dyes for wool and cotton, but read if laked, wont work on cotton later. Am researching what else besides alum works for laking, and you use calcium carb(chalk), but read of bismuth (thought of buying it at dollarstore). If you changed that pH, would your pigment colors have changed? So many interesting things you show !!
@aliveandwell early on, i experimented with changing the pH of the dye to get a different color, then doing the laking process, and found that if I made the dye too acidic, the laking process didn’t work. Sometimes the process completely changes the color on its own - I have a couple of purple leafed trees and the dye is purple, but when you add the sodium carbonate, the lake pigment turns green.
@@KJodiGear think to dye wool from a lake, acid is added (so called a split lake)(wish worked on cotton fabric also, will try painting on fabric, then after mordant)
@@1aliveandwell yes, that would make sense that acid would undo it. (As when you add it beforehand, it doesn't allow the precipitate to form)
@@KJodiGear just found this by M Garcia on chem of Al in clay, think is saying using lime or ashes to make useable?! ua-cam.com/video/VDotxdgFdYA/v-deo.html You have clear information on your videos
How do you differentiate what rocks are lightfast and not? Or any other natural mediums? TIA
The iron oxide/hydroxide earth pigments are light-fast. So rocks that you find that are soft enough to grind will make a light-fast paint. The color/dye you get from plants (the botanical pigments) will not be light-fast. Some will last longer than others, but they will all fade in UV light.
Do you do anything to fix the ph?
No, I don't change the pH after I've done the laking process. (Is that what you are asking?)