Thank You Ron!! Another good hack...A/C units and refrigerators are a problem in the heat. I've found that being completely level also is a big issue with the refrigerator. I'm going to follow your instructions on the A/C unit.. Thanks again. I did also install fans inside and outside of the Refrigerator to help the air flow. Works well. Thanks for that one too!
Hey Ron great video as usual, I did prime and paint my shroud on a Vita, Been up there for a year and not a sign of paint issues. Definitely seems to make a difference in heat on the compressor. I used Rustoleum primer and Krylon top coat in white. Looks better too.
I made the DIY plenum 👍👍👍. Also, cut away the plastic fins to the a/c covers (both exhaust and intake). Really helps the a/c units breath a bit better. Covered the large holes with 1/4" hardware cloth and riveted them to the housing cover. I like that reflectix mod man!!! I’m gonna do the same.
For the color of the shroud affecting the temperature of the air conditioner. There is a substantial amount of air, passing across the condensing coil, the small thermal mass of the air conditioners cover (color), will barely if it all affect the outdoor air temperature as it passes across that coil. When you look at the thermal mass properties, the volume of air and the speed of the year that passes it I believe that it’s a stretch to think this part of the equation will have any real effect.
I agree that the shoud color is npt a big problem but it is something that you can consider if you have a choice. I do believe a white cover will allow the AC to start cooling quicker when first turning it on since all the components will be cooler to start. Yes, shade is good but not always available.
Have you ever considered painting the black ac cover to white? I would like to know the difference in temperature of the unit itself before and after the color change. I would think that white would be 10-15 degrees cooler. Thanks for the video!
I did think about it but am concerned that the paint wiuld chip and look bad. I know the temperature of my white paint on the rv body is 30 deg cooler than the black sections.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 that is a huge temperature difference! It makes you wonder how much cooler the RV could be with a white air conditioner cover. With cooler air around the outside coil, I would think it could more easily transfer the warm air away from the coil.
I bought a premade item from KoolRV for $85, that made a huge difference in my a/c/ pressure. Cools down my Puma Palamino 37plf and the air shuts down instead of running continuously.
Ron, did you compare the two common product options (micro-air and softstartrv) and favor one over the other? And, if so, why did you go with one over the other? I'm getting ready to install one of these in my 14V in the next week or two.
I looked at both. I have a friend that did the microair unit and was happy. I also thought the micro unit had a slightly better current reduction. Close call.
Always fun viewing what you do to make your RV more efficient! My 11J has the same issues but climbing up on my rigs roof is not something I want to do! Your modifications, are they available in a kit form anywhere? The insulating sheets I believe are available at most hardware stores, so that I can handle. Speaking that, when I start my generator and turn on the ac, nothing happens!? Any suggestions? BTW, we live in Fallbrook and I don’t think too far from your place.
The foam insert for inside the RV AC can be bought. There are a couple olaces that sell them. Outside mods are strickly home made. Another option is to replace the whole AC with a Houghton unit. They are quieter but it costs a lot more that the foam.
Have you had any issues with the bathroom skylight cracking due to heat being trapped between your fabricated insert and the skylight? I read somewhere where the intense heat affected its longevity.
There's some other YT videos on smoothing out the airflow in the AC ducts. But I liked the idea of using insulation in the roof AC housing. Also the soft start is a must do, I think it's supposed to prolong the life of the compressor as well.
Thanks Ron. As always, appreciate your inventive upgrades. I upgraded my rig to 4x Battle Born lithium; added a 3000w Go Power IC. Same issue. The inverter is overheating in that box. Escondido heat. Vegas last week was intolerable. I have a similar rig to yours, Mercedes based Reyo 25-T. I added a small fan pointed at the inverter. No help. If you have some ideas on cooling that compartment... really appreciate the thoughts...
I plan on adding an exhaust fan on the side of the compartment. Air intake is from the opening at the top where all those cables exit. That will be air conditioned air. Just have to figure out how big a fan and if i want a thermal switch on it.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 I ran the AC with the cargo door closed and it popped the inverter in about 25 minutes. Let it cool, opened the cargo door and it ran for over 2 hours without overheating. We have a definite heat dissipation problem. I like your idea of piping in cooler air, with additional venting.
My QD with over 700 hours on it is quiet i insulated with sound deading...of course the LP crowd jealous of us QD3200 owners, in which they didnt want to pay the $3000.00+ for the option always seem to have negative comments on not having a same fuel system for the engine and generator
Hey Ron, which inverter are you running? I know you panel is a victron, but based on the specs that you said when it faulted, I get the feeling that the inverter isn't a victron unit.
Or you can get a eights sleep bed cover. But there very expensive. And no one will know your using it. Put it this way, it’s like buying a new fancy mattress and you need a iPhone.
FYI that inferred thermometer measurements surface temperatures not air temperature, this explains why some temperatures are way higher and took a long time to come down (or go up) then expected. If you really want to reduce the amount of heat on the camper, shade is your biggest friend. I am not talking about shading the air conditioner, I’m referring to shading the entire camper. Solar gain can count for as much as a third, or even a little more of the gain that the camper sees.
Yes. Nice to have in case we need it. We don’t travel in hot weather much but sometimes it is necessary. Wife cannot sleep with diesel generator running under the bed. We have also been in campgrounds where genny hrs end at 8 pm.
Another Great video Ron , i will be upgrading my My Coleman Mach like yours. It draws 125 amps off my 3000 watt inverter. Imagine if i do what you did i could get her down to just over 100amps. But i also want a low draw cooling system. I managed to fit a window ac in the bedroom window. I have a17 g model the rear slide is the bed. There is partition door so i could just cool the bedroom. It draws 50 amps so my 400 amp hr batteries are able to run it all day. I installed my inverter in the rear storage area. Not where the factory inverter is located. I wired my inverter directly to the cb panel via auto transfer switch. I may leave the factory inverter and the 2 100 amp hour batteries up front. For now until I'm comfortable with the new set up.
Sounds great. I alway enjoy trying different approaches and making the changes that fit our lifestyle. Do you have 4 batteries to give the 400 ahr? Which kind did you choose?
You can also buy a Hysolis Apollo 5k electric generator. And then you can run solar. But it’s expensive too. And if you buy 2. You can run 50amp power.
Many thanks Ron, going to do these mods on my 2023D Navion. Aside from EasyStart install, did you have to rewire anything to run the AC off batteries? And you are not running inverter when running AC on battery, correct?
No rewiring required except for battery cables. But yes the Air Conditioner is powered by the inverter which changes the power from the low voltage battery to high voltage AC current. All these air conditioners run on 120v AC. Remember that i only have a 2000 watt inverter. If you switch to a bigger unit such as 3000 watt then you should rewire your AC lines to a bigger gauge wire to handle the extra capacity.
Your AC unit doesnt have any filtration? my 09 View has filter on the intake side I see yours does not and i installed a Hepa on the intake side...and black AC unit is a fail mine is white always enjoy your videos
Technically my AC does have filters. They are built into the cover shroud on the ceiling. They are those thin washable plastic one that only filter out large things like flys. Wish I had a white shroud like yours.
True. Foam has better insulating properties but hard to work with curved surfaces. I used the Reflectix mainly for ease of use and there is an air gap in most places. Where the cover bolted down to the AC, I used sound dampening vinyl. Thin and it will not crush.
I wonder if you paint the AC shroud silver reflective or solid white if that would help? We put the silver bubble wrap on the windows that actually helps.
Great video! Ay 10:35 it looks Hellish! I was thinking of using sound control board like you did but also wrap the compressor and the squirl cage fan too, on the top side.
Thanks for producing this wonderful video. While watching another video where someone was doing the same thing you did, a commenter said that condensation will collect between the reflectics and the metal housing and cause it to rust. Would you or others please address this possible concern?
All air conditioners remove moisture from the air. They drip that water somewhere. Mine runs off the roof and drips by the coach door. The AC is designed to not rust with this moisture around. I don’t see how the reflectix makes any difference unless you plug up the drain holes.
Would adding some aluminum heatsinks to the inverter and then via fans routing cool van interior air over that and then exit thru another hole in the inverter box work. Should be able to dissipate quite a bot of heat that ways. Using computer fans are cheap, quiet and move a lot of air for their size.
The insulation in the roof top unit would apply. The “easy start” will help make the turn on more gentle. Since you don’t have ducts the foam dividers won’t be needed.
Comment: I don’t know about painting a black shroud from black to white, but if you do try spraying a coat of primer (for plastic) that might work. Recently I had to paint a new water heater cover to color match my motorhome. Got it online from an auto paint company. So far works great without issue. I have a black shroud on my Dometic Penguin II. Won’t paint it. Did the mods on the baffling and EZ Start already. But insulating the shroud with Reflectix sound like a good idea.
Another great video. I want to trickle charge my RV's main battery using installed solar. I am thinking of installing Battery Tender Solar Charger Controller. Do you have any experience on this?
Do you ever worry about large hail?? I've held out on installing solar because of hail. A friend of mine bought a new nissan from a dealer in Texas cheap because all flat surfaces were badly dimpled by golf ball sized hail.
I have a View Profile. Suggest you fabricate a Reflect-X cover to replace your white vinyl windshield cover. Also fabricate a reflect-X cover for cab area. Both covers should be on the outside of the RV. The cab section is fiberglass and has less insulation that the rest of the RV. I use magnetic adhesive strips on my covers to that adhear to the steel frame. I live in Texas and can get my rig down to 77F when it is +95F. I will leverage your "cool" idea to apply reflect X on the evaporator. Thanks.
Not sure of your question. The dc to AC inverter has cooling fans to remove heat from the unit. Therefore you cannot insulate it completely without it overheating.
Baffle is pretty simple. Just build a tent. There are many different AC units so hard to be specific. Look for other videos that look like the model you have.
Once again, another practical informative video. I have a Mach 3 with a black housing and I’m wondering if a white housing would reflect the heat better. RV manufacturers don’t seem to understand the real world the way the owners do. Thanks, Ron.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 - I thought of white paint immediately when I saw your black shroud. Just in case you don't know, both Krylon and Rustoleum make spray paint for plastics. I've used them on several projects. If the plastic surface is very smooth (like a computer mouse or a plastic deck chair), the paint will stick, but is easy to scratch off (kids). If the surface is pretty rough, the paint seems to adhere much better and resists scratching. Just two cents if you need another project. 🙂
@@ontheroadwithron2432 yes. Especially down here in SE hot humid conditions. The stock answer of "set it to 70 degrees and low speed" so it doesn't freeze up seems to be an admission of poor design on MB's part.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 - one option with mini-splits is an "in ceiling cassette" that you could mount where your current RV AC unit sits and even use yous existing ducts. It would be a project, but you seem quite capable from your vids. Cheers.
@@randybobandy9828 - Along the top of the roof is the easiest route, of course. But, it is possible to run the line set within the roof itself, albeit, a much harder install. The question comes down to effort vs reward. If you are only going to use the RV occasionally for a few years, then the effort would not make sense. If you are a full time RV'er and expect to be on the road 200+ day of the year, the reward should be worth the effort. Of course, this would not be a trivial project, it all depends on skill level, time, cost, and overall need.
great video Ron I'm looking at going in a different direction with AC I purchased a eco-flow pro 3600 Watt and I'm looking for a small AC which will be portable also it would be great if you would put out a video on ideas of carrying extra fuel I've thought about putting a fuel tank in the driver side front storage compartment. I always enjoy your videos thanks
Ron's channel, Ron's way. I enjoy it. Besides ,it's a hobby for Ron not a business. Thanks Ron, I've found great data driven information as well as some entertainment
Like you I made my own baffle for my ac unit. I wasn’t going to pay $180 for one. Great video!
Thank You Ron!! Another good hack...A/C units and refrigerators are a problem in the heat. I've found that being completely level also is a big issue with the refrigerator. I'm going to follow your instructions on the A/C unit.. Thanks again. I did also install fans inside and outside of the Refrigerator to help the air flow. Works well. Thanks for that one too!
Hey Ron great video as usual, I did prime and paint my shroud on a Vita, Been up there for a year and not a sign of paint issues. Definitely seems to make a difference in heat on the compressor. I used Rustoleum primer and Krylon top coat in white. Looks better too.
I always worried about the paint chipping. Might give it a try.
I painted the top of mine also with white Kilz primer paint. Need to rough up surface and treat with solvent. I still have to touch up every year.
Liked, Shared, and…SUBSCRIBED!!! Thanks!!!
I didn't realize that crappy campgrounds without power would have rules for generators usage. Thank you I will be sure to avoid such places!
Dude, I didn't even realize I needed this video, thank you.
I made the DIY plenum 👍👍👍. Also, cut away the plastic fins to the a/c covers (both exhaust and intake). Really helps the a/c units breath a bit better. Covered the large holes with 1/4" hardware cloth and riveted them to the housing cover.
I like that reflectix mod man!!! I’m gonna do the same.
For the color of the shroud affecting the temperature of the air conditioner. There is a substantial amount of air, passing across the condensing coil, the small thermal mass of the air conditioners cover (color), will barely if it all affect the outdoor air temperature as it passes across that coil. When you look at the thermal mass properties, the volume of air and the speed of the year that passes it I believe that it’s a stretch to think this part of the equation will have any real effect.
I agree that the shoud color is npt a big problem but it is something that you can consider if you have a choice. I do believe a white cover will allow the AC to start cooling quicker when first turning it on since all the components will be cooler to start. Yes, shade is good but not always available.
I just put starter capacitor and my divided is not best so I got foil tape and put around it is that to much foil tape
Have you ever considered painting the black ac cover to white? I would like to know the difference in temperature of the unit itself before and after the color change. I would think that white would be 10-15 degrees cooler. Thanks for the video!
I did think about it but am concerned that the paint wiuld chip and look bad. I know the temperature of my white paint on the rv body is 30 deg cooler than the black sections.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 that is a huge temperature difference! It makes you wonder how much cooler the RV could be with a white air conditioner cover. With cooler air around the outside coil, I would think it could more easily transfer the warm air away from the coil.
Perhaps the AC manufacturer has a white color or maybe an RV salvage yard?
I painted the top of my black AC shroud silver, and it reduced the temp inside the shroud significantly.
Use adhesion promoter.
Dont over think it... its just paint.
I bought a premade item from KoolRV for $85, that made a huge difference in my a/c/ pressure. Cools down my Puma Palamino 37plf and the air shuts down instead of running continuously.
These RVs can get very hot and the AC needs all the help it can get.
Ron, did you compare the two common product options (micro-air and softstartrv) and favor one over the other? And, if so, why did you go with one over the other? I'm getting ready to install one of these in my 14V in the next week or two.
I looked at both. I have a friend that did the microair unit and was happy. I also thought the micro unit had a slightly better current reduction. Close call.
Always fun viewing what you do to make your RV more efficient! My 11J has the same issues but climbing up on my rigs roof is not something I want to do! Your modifications, are they available in a kit form anywhere? The insulating sheets I believe are available at most hardware stores, so that I can handle. Speaking that, when I start my generator and turn on the ac, nothing happens!? Any suggestions? BTW, we live in Fallbrook and I don’t think too far from your place.
The foam insert for inside the RV AC can be bought. There are a couple olaces that sell them. Outside mods are strickly home made. Another option is to replace the whole AC with a Houghton unit. They are quieter but it costs a lot more that the foam.
Have you had any issues with the bathroom skylight cracking due to heat being trapped between your fabricated insert and the skylight? I read somewhere where the intense heat affected its longevity.
No cracking but the motor that open the lid has stripped and it will not open now. It is 7 years old so I need to replace it.
Thanks for the video my 16G View was built in June 2015 I like what you have done with the A/C .
I’m going to look into window coverings
2 hours run time on the AC using battery power Ron?
What size is your AC & your battery bank?
The AC is 15k btu. Battery is 400 ahr or 5.1kwh. At night it cycles on andd off so it lasted all night.
There's some other YT videos on smoothing out the airflow in the AC ducts. But I liked the idea of using insulation in the roof AC housing. Also the soft start is a must do, I think it's supposed to prolong the life of the compressor as well.
It seems to help in several areas. Just wish it didn’t cost so much.
Thanks Ron. As always, appreciate your inventive upgrades. I upgraded my rig to 4x Battle Born lithium; added a 3000w Go Power IC. Same issue. The inverter is overheating in that box. Escondido heat. Vegas last week was intolerable. I have a similar rig to yours, Mercedes based Reyo 25-T. I added a small fan pointed at the inverter. No help. If you have some ideas on cooling that compartment... really appreciate the thoughts...
I plan on adding an exhaust fan on the side of the compartment. Air intake is from the opening at the top where all those cables exit. That will be air conditioned air. Just have to figure out how big a fan and if i want a thermal switch on it.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 I ran the AC with the cargo door closed and it popped the inverter in about 25 minutes. Let it cool, opened the cargo door and it ran for over 2 hours without overheating. We have a definite heat dissipation problem. I like your idea of piping in cooler air, with additional venting.
the Onan "quiet diesel" is quite the oxymoron. It's amazingly loud. I appreciate you using an actual SPL meter for your tests! Very well done.
Thanks. I appreciate quiet when out in nature and the genny sound is so rude.
My QD with over 700 hours on it is quiet i insulated with sound deading...of course the LP crowd jealous of us QD3200 owners, in which they didnt want to pay the $3000.00+ for the option always seem to have negative comments on not having a same fuel system for the engine and generator
Hey Ron, which inverter are you running? I know you panel is a victron, but based on the specs that you said when it faulted, I get the feeling that the inverter isn't a victron unit.
I have a Samlex 2000 watt inverter.
Or you can get a eights sleep bed cover. But there very expensive. And no one will know your using it. Put it this way, it’s like buying a new fancy mattress and you need a iPhone.
Build a lifepo4 battery pack for when you can't run a generator. You can build them for about $150 a kwh and 10kwh would run a AC all night.
FYI that inferred thermometer measurements surface temperatures not air temperature, this explains why some temperatures are way higher and took a long time to come down (or go up) then expected.
If you really want to reduce the amount of heat on the camper, shade is your biggest friend. I am not talking about shading the air conditioner, I’m referring to shading the entire camper. Solar gain can count for as much as a third, or even a little more of the gain that the camper sees.
You can coat your roof with Henry silicone roof coating. Helps a lot keeping the camper cool and it seals your roof.
So with an inverter you can run a/c for a few hrs
Yes. Nice to have in case we need it. We don’t travel in hot weather much but sometimes it is necessary. Wife cannot sleep with diesel generator running under the bed. We have also been in campgrounds where genny hrs end at 8 pm.
You make the best videos. Thank you......
Dear Ron, how many amp hours of battery do you have ?
400aHr
@@ontheroadwithron2432 thank you
Another Great video Ron , i will be upgrading my My Coleman Mach like yours. It draws 125 amps off my 3000 watt inverter. Imagine if i do what you did i could get her down to just over 100amps. But i also want a low draw cooling system. I managed to fit a window ac in the bedroom window. I have a17 g model the rear slide is the bed. There is partition door so i could just cool the bedroom. It draws 50 amps so my 400 amp hr batteries are able to run it all day. I installed my inverter in the rear storage area. Not where the factory inverter is located. I wired my inverter directly to the cb panel via auto transfer switch. I may leave the factory inverter and the 2 100 amp hour batteries up front. For now until I'm comfortable with the new set up.
Sounds great. I alway enjoy trying different approaches and making the changes that fit our lifestyle.
Do you have 4 batteries to give the 400 ahr? Which kind did you choose?
You can also buy a Hysolis Apollo 5k electric generator. And then you can run solar. But it’s expensive too. And if you buy 2. You can run 50amp power.
Nice unit but more expensive.
9 db ain’t worth the headache
Pretty sure my ac is about 85 db lol
👍👌❤🇨🇦, excellent mod
Many thanks Ron, going to do these mods on my 2023D Navion. Aside from EasyStart install, did you have to rewire anything to run the AC off batteries? And you are not running inverter when running AC on battery, correct?
No rewiring required except for battery cables. But yes the Air Conditioner is powered by the inverter which changes the power from the low voltage battery to high voltage AC current. All these air conditioners run on 120v AC. Remember that i only have a 2000 watt inverter. If you switch to a bigger unit such as 3000 watt then you should rewire your AC lines to a bigger gauge wire to handle the extra capacity.
Your AC unit doesnt have any filtration? my 09 View has filter on the intake side I see yours does not and i installed a Hepa on the intake side...and black AC unit is a fail mine is white always enjoy your videos
Technically my AC does have filters. They are built into the cover shroud on the ceiling. They are those thin washable plastic one that only filter out large things like flys. Wish I had a white shroud like yours.
Reflectix doesn't do much without an air gap. Foam would work much better.
True. Foam has better insulating properties but hard to work with curved surfaces. I used the Reflectix mainly for ease of use and there is an air gap in most places. Where the cover bolted down to the AC, I used sound dampening vinyl. Thin and it will not crush.
I wonder if you paint the AC shroud silver reflective or solid white if that would help? We put the silver bubble wrap on the windows that actually helps.
Paint might help a little but I am more concerned with the paint not sticking to the plastic.
Thank you that was very informative. Do you have lithium batteries and how long do you think the batteries would last ? If lithium, how many amps?
Yes. I have 400 amp/hr of lithium. Life is 7000 cycles so should last the life of the RV.
Great video! Ay 10:35 it looks Hellish! I was thinking of using sound control board like you did but also wrap the compressor and the squirl cage fan too, on the top side.
Thanks. Good luck with your mods.
Thanks for producing this wonderful video. While watching another video where someone was doing the same thing you did, a commenter said that condensation will collect between the reflectics and the metal housing and cause it to rust. Would you or others please address this possible concern?
All air conditioners remove moisture from the air. They drip that water somewhere. Mine runs off the roof and drips by the coach door. The AC is designed to not rust with this moisture around. I don’t see how the reflectix makes any difference unless you plug up the drain holes.
Would adding some aluminum heatsinks to the inverter and then via fans routing cool van interior air over that and then exit thru another hole in the inverter box work. Should be able to dissipate quite a bot of heat that ways. Using computer fans are cheap, quiet and move a lot of air for their size.
Will be working on ventilation method soon
Hey Ron does this also apply for a regular mach 15 RV unit that is ductless?
The insulation in the roof top unit would apply. The “easy start” will help make the turn on more gentle. Since you don’t have ducts the foam dividers won’t be needed.
I know this is late. But I would also recommend painting the shroud white.
I thought about it. Could also just buy a white one. Not sure if necessary now that it is insulated.
Did you add the sound deading/reflexic to the ouside or inside of the shroud? Couldn't tell in the picture.
I put it on the outside. Just the large flat area.
Good job!
Would plastic spray paint white onto that shroud help?
Yes it would. However I’m concerned the paint might chip and look bad. Some plastics are hard to paint.
Comment: I don’t know about painting a black shroud from black to white, but if you do try spraying a coat of primer (for plastic) that might work. Recently I had to paint a new water heater cover to color match my motorhome. Got it online from an auto paint company.
So far works great without issue.
I have a black shroud on my Dometic Penguin II. Won’t paint it. Did the mods on the baffling and EZ Start already.
But insulating the shroud with Reflectix sound like a good idea.
I just haven’t wanted to try paint on plastic.
You could probably buy a white replacement shroud if you're not into painting.
Another great video. I want to trickle charge my RV's main battery using installed solar. I am thinking of installing Battery Tender Solar Charger Controller. Do you have any experience on this?
Not familiar this this. My Trik-L Start charges the chassis battery and my main solar charges the coach batteries
Do you ever worry about large hail?? I've held out on installing solar because of hail. A friend of mine bought a new nissan from a dealer in Texas cheap because all flat surfaces were badly dimpled by golf ball sized hail.
I have a View Profile. Suggest you fabricate a Reflect-X cover to replace your white vinyl windshield cover. Also fabricate a reflect-X cover for cab area. Both covers should be on the outside of the RV. The cab section is fiberglass and has less insulation that the rest of the RV. I use magnetic adhesive strips on my covers to that adhear to the steel frame. I live in Texas and can get my rig down to 77F when it is +95F. I will leverage your "cool" idea to apply reflect X on the evaporator. Thanks.
My next task will be making some kind of Reflectix window coverings. Not sure what to do about the cabover section yet.
I've hung a blanket from the bunk to further separate the cab from the cabin so the AC has a smaller area to cool and seen an improvement :)
What kinda batteries do you have to run the AC?
I gave the EG4 server rack battery pack. 12volt with 400 amp hrs of storage. Will run AC for a couple hrs if needed.
Your air conditioner shroud is black… you need to paint this with white reflective roof coating. It well keep your whole ac a whole bunch cooler.
I thought about it. Not sure the paint will stick to a flexible plastic cover.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 it will stick if you use the 100% silicone, white reflective RV roof paint… 887 Tropi-cool.
i have same ac over my head in bedroom. when compressor starts it really gives a good bang. did the micro air soft start cure this? thanks in advance
My ac with the soft start doesn’t have a bang. Gentle start.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 thank you. i go for it
The prefab is MUCH better.
Where do you purchase the prefab ?
Can you insulate inverter?
Not sure of your question. The dc to AC inverter has cooling fans to remove heat from the unit. Therefore you cannot insulate it completely without it overheating.
Would love to see more about the baffle details.
Baffle is pretty simple. Just build a tent. There are many different AC units so hard to be specific. Look for other videos that look like the model you have.
Once again, another practical informative video. I have a Mach 3 with a black housing and I’m wondering if a white housing would reflect the heat better. RV manufacturers don’t seem to understand the real world the way the owners do. Thanks, Ron.
I considered painting it white. Should be 30-40 degrees cooler. Only concern is if the paint would stick and not peel off.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 - I thought of white paint immediately when I saw your black shroud. Just in case you don't know, both Krylon and Rustoleum make spray paint for plastics. I've used them on several projects. If the plastic surface is very smooth (like a computer mouse or a plastic deck chair), the paint will stick, but is easy to scratch off (kids). If the surface is pretty rough, the paint seems to adhere much better and resists scratching. Just two cents if you need another project. 🙂
That might explain why I've seen ACs in Florida with no covers at all
Now can you solve the issues with the MB AC in the cab?
Are you referring to the units icing up on occasion?
@@ontheroadwithron2432 yes. Especially down here in SE hot humid conditions. The stock answer of "set it to 70 degrees and low speed" so it doesn't freeze up seems to be an admission of poor design on MB's part.
Why go out in the desert when it's so hot that you to set in your RV? Go to the coast! Just saying.
I live on the coast but have to travel through the desert to get to Colorado. It is 110 deg in phoenix when we stop for the night.
@ontheroadwithron2432 exactly I was about to say the same thing lol
Get a mini split, best decision of my life
Which one do you have?
@@ontheroadwithron2432 9000 btu mr.cool,
Nice try, Ron, You need mini split set up. Silent, draws minimal energy and you can sleep well,
I considered that for a long time, but I don't have a good place to put the head unit and the install is pretty intense, so will try this first
@@ontheroadwithron2432 - one option with mini-splits is an "in ceiling cassette" that you could mount where your current RV AC unit sits and even use yous existing ducts. It would be a project, but you seem quite capable from your vids. Cheers.
@@valkyriefrost5301 where are you going to run the line sets in that cassette style mini split? On the roof? On the ceiling?
@@randybobandy9828 - Along the top of the roof is the easiest route, of course. But, it is possible to run the line set within the roof itself, albeit, a much harder install. The question comes down to effort vs reward. If you are only going to use the RV occasionally for a few years, then the effort would not make sense. If you are a full time RV'er and expect to be on the road 200+ day of the year, the reward should be worth the effort. Of course, this would not be a trivial project, it all depends on skill level, time, cost, and overall need.
@@valkyriefrost5301 are those in ceiling cassettes 14x14?
great video Ron
I'm looking at going in a different direction with AC I purchased a eco-flow pro 3600 Watt and I'm looking for a small AC which will be portable also it would be great if you would put out a video on ideas of carrying extra fuel I've thought about putting a fuel tank in the driver side front storage compartment.
I always enjoy your videos thanks
Cut the long intro and rhetoric. Nobody comes here for those. Thanks.
Ron's channel, Ron's way. I enjoy it. Besides ,it's a hobby for Ron not a business. Thanks Ron, I've found great data driven information as well as some entertainment