I always have a chuckle with videos like this. Micrometers and precision engineering, and then the next video shows some Indian 10 year old in flip flops doing the same job with a hammer and chisel :-)
Machinist here for 30yrs,also had the pleasure of learning automotive machining,and used the the exact same bathtub grinder, also resurfaced countless blocks of all types,and I would never trust putting 2 expandable plugs in just #1 and #5 mains. Shop had dif dia bronze bushings for mains and precision ground bar stock,and I always indicated height of bar at each end of block. Centerline of crank being indicated is crucial to zero decking a block,you can’t trust that a factory or someone else’s resurfacing job is truly parallel with centerline of crank,that’s the only way to get all 4 pistons to the same height of deck.When you indicate from centerline of crank,and have it true,you will be able to see how parallel deck to crank is by starting with with a very light touch off of grinding wheel,it won’t make contact all the way across, then take small amounts,.001 at most,you take a chance on grinding wheel building up pressure and not skimming deck flat,also on last pass let wheel spark out by letting machine make a bunch of phantom passes.Jim Phillips is also correct.
you remove the words from my mouth, how can he locate precisely the deck in regard of the center of the crankshaft with these expandable stub shafts. the only true reference he have is the gasket plane that is not garenteed to be true with the crankshaft center, it is not catastrophic on a generic engine but on an enginethat is built for performance, it costs general performance.
I have an alloy block with wet liners standard liner height is between 2-6 thou tolerance, head gasket seems to e a composite/graphite type rather than mls. Would it be acceptable to machine the deck and liners flat and install fire rings into the liner edge rather than machining the liners to sit proud?
When you do this I see you are trying to make your cut parallel to the existing deck. Do you check the decking from the center line of the crank at any time? Do you verify that the center line to each side deck is the same or is that not that important? After cutting the block, do you need to cut the intake manifold at all to allow for the heads being closer? Thanks for the video.
Yes...the video didn't show when he took the measurements from crank center line. He then setup the block based on those measurements. The block was about .003 off so he trued up the block parallel to the crankshaft and cut it to zero deck height. Watched him recheck the measurements to the crank centerline and it was spot on.
@@bmblb69 Actually BHJ made precision set up fixture that is a 2" ground shaft and adapter rings. He is just cutting the surface to the same specs as the original. The right way to do it is use a BHJ through bar and adapter rings with a front indexing plate for the 45 deg angles then level the v blocks in the machine and set the block in the fixture. This will make the decks parallel and square to the mains. The way he is machining will just copy any error that exists.
The two places I use use a one piece mandrel and mill the deck, not grind. You can then control the final surface. Many people like a coarser finish for the head gasket to 'grip'. Though I was surprised to see a brand new block that was woppy.And I am sure he set it up properly. GM however have way too many woppy blocks on the decks as well as main and cam tunnels.
This was a Motown II block and it was off by .003 at one corner and .002 on the other side of the block. After he cut it he re-measured to the crank centerline and it was spot on, zero deck height. Although he's been using that machine for 30+ years he takes in all the work in the area for BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, and lots of muscle. He's recently purchased a new machine.
@@bmblb69 If he used the proper procedure and fixtures all the measuring and tolerances would be gone he could repeatably square deck blocks dead on with better accuracy in 1/3 the time
LOL people in the 60's used to believe the coarse finish was good it has been proven that's very very wrong. The smoother the better is what works. especially with modern MLS gaskets . Actually the worst machined decks i have seen is ford Fe's 352 390 ect. thats why they were known for intake leaks from the factory. The heads are not on straight. So the intake does not seal.
I agree Jim phillips. It’s also nice to see someone suggesting an alternate method without being rude or trolling so we r on the same pg. Vid poster did a good job addressing the inexperienced commenters hating on vice grips. I have Dow pin tools, stud removers, and all that fun stuff. Honestly though I rarely use them. Knipex channel locks or whatever suitable pliers/vice grips at hand. Like any tool there’s a time and application(rare dowel, sensitive finish somewhere, siezed, rusted, and a million other scenarios). So yea, obviously this guy knows his trade. Careful methodical set-up, indicating over the surface, and attention to detail. So all that careful work and why would he just all the sudden “ah screw it I’ll vice grip these pins” ridiculous! A tiny mark on a dowel has no affect on that motor. It’s gonna be sandwiched between 2 hunks of metal inside a tiny bore inside a gasket. Anyone with experience would know this and the time going into this. No, most of the time I’m not going to stop, go to my tools, find my removers, attach to dowel, yada yada... no, time is money but I take pride in my work. Stubborn dowel? Grab it and destroy it if need be getting it out then simply get a new one if that happens outa my stash. Obviously wouldn’t tear a dowel out without knowing I had some on hand. Way too many words for a dowel pin yes. But not too many for an armchair “machanic/machinist” moaning about vice grips on a vid of a job well done! Only reason I went to comments is when I saw the vice grips... I knew someone was gonna be whining about that one detail out of 20 min of vid. Thanks for sharing the vid and well done!
Thank you Wade...had a complete new set of dowel pins for the timing cover, heads, and crank-shaft...didn't matter about taking the old ones out. To your point, I'm amazed how many bone-headed comments I receive about the country music, the vice grips, the dirty plywood cart, or other insignificant observations, yet nothing positive about the process of machining the block, the meticulous measurements, etc. The video did not show installing the crank with front and rear bearings to measure from the crank center, etc...it was fascinating to watch and learn as he squared up the block and produced a perfect zero deck height at all four corners. Appreciate your comments. I love building motors and always learning something new. Necessity is the mother of invention, yes! BTW, the shop has been around 40+ years and does all the work for local BMW, Porsche, Mercedes, and more. The owner is old school and knows his stuff. He's a trusted shop regardless of how crowded or dirty or his country music...His machining is A+!
@@bmblb69 He needs to invest in a dowel puller. I have owned a shop for 30 + years. The automotive machine shop business is dirty greasy stressful hard work at times any little thing you can do to make is less so pays off and the quality is better because your not scarring up the pins. Look in any good mechanics tool box you will see lots of specialized tools . You never go wrong buying a good tool. As far as dirty shop oh i have seen worse. Wonder if he has figured out how many jobs he will have to do including overhead to pay for his new machine?
Ive never seen this done....i didnt know stone can cut steel. And why does he first take measurements at the deck instead of measuring that the block is horizontal and nevermind what the deck is doing?
@@anonymic79 I figured something like that. If he dialed in off the surface then it seems that he doesn't need arbors at all. But he has arbors which seems to indicate that he wants to reference from the mains (which makes some sense). I guess he can probably justifiably assume that the mains are true to each other which would mean that the error will be small and outweighed by the flexibility of having two arbors.
@@anonymic79 Actually BHJ made precision set up fixture that is a 2" ground shaft and adapter rings. He is just cutting the surface to the same specs as the original. The right way to do it is use a BHJ through bar and adapter rings with a front indexing plate for the 45 deg angles then level the v blocks in the machine and set the block in the fixture. This will make the decks parallel and square to the mains. The way he is machining will just copy any error that exists.
The setup doesnt make sense. He has set the block up according to the mean average surface height of the existing deck, which we know is wrong. Its the reason why its being milled. You could see him raising and lowering the front crank pin height. The deck surface is going to come out as a product of an error whereas the block should have been setup according to the crank main bore so that the deck surface would be equidistant to the crank centerline in 4 different places, the cylinder bores.
Sorry the video didn't show him setting up the block and measuring from crank center line...he had already done that. If I recall the measurements for each corner; .023" high, .021", .018 high, and the lowest corner .013" high. We then decked and squared up block. End result was all corners trued at at .000". He been doing this for 32 years and does all the local muscle car, BMW, Mercedes, Ferrari, and more.
What can you tell me about that boring machine I see you walking past. I know it’s a Schou, model 200 I believe. Just acquired one and been searching for a manual or tips on setup and using it.
What u talkin about there aint nothing better than some country music NASHVILLE BROTHER take a ride out there on country beach in a 69 chevelle cruisin casual drinks ooomaaaannnnn thats the life with perfect machined block 👍👍👍 thats the best 😁
I see no measures to check left or right bank front to back center line. To me it looks like he is decking the block assuming it was already decked square. No fixture to do anything correct. Just old school basic deck from what is shown. Not on my HP block.
Yes but you will still not get the finish of a modern CBN machine. Note the toothed rack in the picture that moves the mill head it just does not travel smooth enough. Also on that type of machine it is hard to accesses the cutter head to service the cutter
I'm not trying to be mean or too critical but levelling the deck using this method, which we all do isn't accurate. It is assuming the machining at the factory was accurate. Blocks of this era were way out of square to cylinder bore and each other and it causes many problems down the road.
What the video doesn't show is the measurements we took from crank center to each corner of the block. The block was .004 high on one corner, .0013 on another, .0025 on another, and .0023, hence we were setting up the block from those base measurements to true it up. After machining It checked out at zero deck height at all four corners from crank center line.
@@bmblb69 Actually BHJ made precision set up fixture that is a 2" ground shaft and adapter rings. He is just cutting the surface to the same specs as the original. The right way to do it is use a BHJ through bar and adapter rings with a front indexing plate for the 45 deg angles then level the v blocks in the machine and set the block in the fixture. This will make the decks parallel and square to the mains. The way he is machining will just copy any error that exists. PS Thats a dart race block I dont think it was .023 OFF unless someone has butchered it and It does not have the material to correct .023 out. The deck would end up to low.
@@tomhutchins1046 No he's not cutting the block to the same bad specs...we measure from crank centerline to get the deck height then we machined the block to true up the four corners to the crank centerline.
@@bmblb69 How about the other axis will the decks be 90deg to each other and properly indexed to the cam bore? thats were the indexing plate on the BHJ fixture come in. Also taking the measurements the way he is there is plenty of tolerance involved / using the proper fixture and procedures take's all that out. As far as your zero deck measurements . Remember the pistons have taper and clearance and the pin pivots ect ect. So if your checking off the tops of the pistons your fooling yourself. He probably got it close on one plane front and back but this is not a pro job and it took him so much work and time to get sort of results. Dont get me wrong he looks like he is really trying to do it right. Just someone needs to show him the correct reliable accurate efficient and repeatable way to do it.
@@bmblb69 ua-cam.com/video/mmM3Jtmajw4/v-deo.html This shows the fixture his machine is old and outdated and he's not quite using it correctly but it gives you the general idea
He could care less - it's not like you can do this at home, and the amount of skill required means he could watch him all day, and you still won't know what he's doing. When it all comes down to .0001, try as you might but you'll never get it as close as these guys will.
Well you got a flat surface for the gasket but that was not a quality blueprint type of job. I did not see where the center line of the crank to deck was measured. this was indicated in a manner that would level and square the deck to itself and will only remove any sag in the middle it can and probably will still be off end to end. These old machines were great in their day but that day is gone. Old shop lots of clutter old equipment. Still in business as not everyone needs high performance quaity
I always have a chuckle with videos like this. Micrometers and precision engineering, and then the next video shows some Indian 10 year old in flip flops doing the same job with a hammer and chisel :-)
Done many a block and head on one of these machines. brought back some memories!
RECKON I WORKED IN MANY OF MACHINE SHOPS IN MY LIFETIME!!! BRINGS BACK LOTS OF MEMORIES GUYS
man I started out watching freeze plug vids and ended up here, that an awesome car and this engine sounds sweet too...
Machinist here for 30yrs,also had the pleasure of learning automotive machining,and used the the exact same bathtub grinder, also resurfaced countless blocks of all types,and I would never trust putting 2 expandable plugs in just #1 and #5 mains. Shop had dif dia bronze bushings for mains and precision ground bar stock,and I always indicated height of bar at each end of block. Centerline of crank being indicated is crucial to zero decking a block,you can’t trust that a factory or someone else’s resurfacing job is truly parallel with centerline of crank,that’s the only way to get all 4 pistons to the same height of deck.When you indicate from centerline of crank,and have it true,you will be able to see how parallel deck to crank is by starting with with a very light touch off of grinding wheel,it won’t make contact all the way across, then take small amounts,.001 at most,you take a chance on grinding wheel building up pressure and not skimming deck flat,also on last pass let wheel spark out by letting machine make a bunch of phantom passes.Jim Phillips is also correct.
you remove the words from my mouth, how can he locate precisely the deck in regard of the center of the crankshaft with these expandable stub shafts.
the only true reference he have is the gasket plane that is not garenteed to be true with the crankshaft center, it is not catastrophic on a generic engine but on an enginethat is built for performance, it costs general performance.
Something I always wanted to see being done!
Try using a flywheel pin puller for dowel removal... Works great
Is great to see him use a dial to level the block instead of a bubble level, great job guy's
Only on youtube does all the exciting stuff happen...thank you
UA-cam will also give you honest answer to your own health Issues.
Interesting view of engine fitting
Really nice job. Great to see someone still using an old tub grinder.
This man is a master he handler his job very professional
He's already measured from crank centerline and he's setting up the block to cut the high corners.
Best shop in town!
I have an alloy block with wet liners standard liner height is between 2-6 thou tolerance, head gasket seems to e a composite/graphite type rather than mls.
Would it be acceptable to machine the deck and liners flat and install fire rings into the liner edge rather than machining the liners to sit proud?
Come on, carry that block! Build some back and spine!
He saving his back and spine for his old age.
Decking done right.
Awesome to see that old machine be so precise as to only take the height of the ink from the marker off of the block. Excellent
Any machine, regardless of its age or design, is only as good as the person using it. This guy knows the machine and is doing a good job.
I'd be lying if I said we were close enough!
When you do this I see you are trying to make your cut parallel to the existing deck. Do you check the decking from the center line of the crank at any time? Do you verify that the center line to each side deck is the same or is that not that important? After cutting the block, do you need to cut the intake manifold at all to allow for the heads being closer?
Thanks for the video.
Yes...so the deck is parallel to the crank center line..when you cut the deck .006...no.
+Mark Thanks, great video.
Yes...the video didn't show when he took the measurements from crank center line. He then setup the block based on those measurements. The block was about .003 off so he trued up the block parallel to the crankshaft and cut it to zero deck height. Watched him recheck the measurements to the crank centerline and it was spot on.
And when I built the motor and checked the deck height it was spot on, all pistons @ .0000 deck height...he's old school but does great work!
@@bmblb69 Actually BHJ made precision set up fixture that is a 2" ground shaft and adapter rings. He is just cutting the surface to the same specs as the original. The right way to do it is use a BHJ through bar and adapter rings with a front indexing plate for the 45 deg angles then level the v blocks in the machine and set the block in the fixture. This will make the decks parallel and square to the mains. The way he is machining will just copy any error that exists.
The two places I use use a one piece mandrel and mill the deck, not grind. You can then control the final surface. Many people like a coarser finish for the head gasket to 'grip'.
Though I was surprised to see a brand new block that was woppy.And I am sure he set it up properly. GM however have way too many woppy blocks on the decks as well as main and cam tunnels.
This was a Motown II block and it was off by .003 at one corner and .002 on the other side of the block. After he cut it he re-measured to the crank centerline and it was spot on, zero deck height. Although he's been using that machine for 30+ years he takes in all the work in the area for BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, and lots of muscle. He's recently purchased a new machine.
@@bmblb69 If he used the proper procedure and fixtures all the measuring and tolerances would be gone he could repeatably square deck blocks dead on with better accuracy in 1/3 the time
LOL people in the 60's used to believe the coarse finish was good it has been proven that's very very wrong. The smoother the better is what works. especially with modern MLS gaskets . Actually the worst machined decks i have seen is ford Fe's 352 390 ect. thats why they were known for intake leaks from the factory. The heads are not on straight. So the intake does not seal.
I don't understand. How does he know the deck is level before machining? Seems like the main centerline would be the reference.
He's already setup the block to be square/level with the centerline...then measured how far off the corners were and decked them true to centerline.
I'm not the only one that sees this. Nothing he did is true or in line or square. Basic cheap street deck on a high dollar block.
I agree Jim phillips. It’s also nice to see someone suggesting an alternate method without being rude or trolling so we r on the same pg.
Vid poster did a good job addressing the inexperienced commenters hating on vice grips.
I have Dow pin tools, stud removers, and all that fun stuff. Honestly though I rarely use them. Knipex channel locks or whatever suitable pliers/vice grips at hand. Like any tool there’s a time and application(rare dowel, sensitive finish somewhere, siezed, rusted, and a million other scenarios).
So yea, obviously this guy knows his trade. Careful methodical set-up, indicating over the surface, and attention to detail. So all that careful work and why would he just all the sudden “ah screw it I’ll vice grip these pins” ridiculous! A tiny mark on a dowel has no affect on that motor. It’s gonna be sandwiched between 2 hunks of metal inside a tiny bore inside a gasket.
Anyone with experience would know this and the time going into this. No, most of the time I’m not going to stop, go to my tools, find my removers, attach to dowel, yada yada... no, time is money but I take pride in my work. Stubborn dowel? Grab it and destroy it if need be getting it out then simply get a new one if that happens outa my stash. Obviously wouldn’t tear a dowel out without knowing I had some on hand.
Way too many words for a dowel pin yes. But not too many for an armchair “machanic/machinist” moaning about vice grips on a vid of a job well done!
Only reason I went to comments is when I saw the vice grips... I knew someone was gonna be whining about that one detail out of 20 min of vid.
Thanks for sharing the vid and well done!
Thank you Wade...had a complete new set of dowel pins for the timing cover, heads, and crank-shaft...didn't matter about taking the old ones out. To your point, I'm amazed how many bone-headed comments I receive about the country music, the vice grips, the dirty plywood cart, or other insignificant observations, yet nothing positive about the process of machining the block, the meticulous measurements, etc. The video did not show installing the crank with front and rear bearings to measure from the crank center, etc...it was fascinating to watch and learn as he squared up the block and produced a perfect zero deck height at all four corners. Appreciate your comments. I love building motors and always learning something new. Necessity is the mother of invention, yes! BTW, the shop has been around 40+ years and does all the work for local BMW, Porsche, Mercedes, and more. The owner is old school and knows his stuff. He's a trusted shop regardless of how crowded or dirty or his country music...His machining is A+!
@@bmblb69 He needs to invest in a dowel puller. I have owned a shop for 30 + years. The automotive machine shop business is dirty greasy stressful hard work at times any little thing you can do to make is less so pays off and the quality is better because your not scarring up the pins. Look in any good mechanics tool box you will see lots of specialized tools . You never go wrong buying a good tool.
As far as dirty shop oh i have seen worse. Wonder if he has figured out how many jobs he will have to do including overhead to pay for his new machine?
Not using a deck index correction fixture? Why?
v8 is good when the shop gets hot and u get thirsty
It's all about measurements: knowing what to measure, and where to take readings. Machines do the hard parts. Patience is key, too.
There's a too for removing locating pins, but you probably know that.
Could have put a ally washer over to pry against...
Ive never seen this done....i didnt know stone can cut steel. And why does he first take measurements at the deck instead of measuring that the block is horizontal and nevermind what the deck is doing?
Doesnt take long for that iron to start rusting up does it?
I wash my new brake rotors with dish detergent and scrub 'em real good. Rinse and wipe dry and they rust as I set them down!
Why two arbors? Seems like they wouldn't true along an axis. Is the error too small to matter?
@@anonymic79 I figured something like that. If he dialed in off the surface then it seems that he doesn't need arbors at all. But he has arbors which seems to indicate that he wants to reference from the mains (which makes some sense). I guess he can probably justifiably assume that the mains are true to each other which would mean that the error will be small and outweighed by the flexibility of having two arbors.
@@anonymic79 I think I prefer what this guy does. Solid arbor with custom bushings to fit the engine. ua-cam.com/video/hczpaUvzxrs/v-deo.html
@@anonymic79 Actually BHJ made precision set up fixture that is a 2" ground shaft and adapter rings. He is just cutting the surface to the same specs as the original. The right way to do it is use a BHJ through bar and adapter rings with a front indexing plate for the 45 deg angles then level the v blocks in the machine and set the block in the fixture. This will make the decks parallel and square to the mains. The way he is machining will just copy any error that exists.
The setup doesnt make sense. He has set the block up according to the mean average surface height of the existing deck, which we know is wrong. Its the reason why its being milled. You could see him raising and lowering the front crank pin height. The deck surface is going to come out as a product of an error whereas the block should have been setup according to the crank main bore so that the deck surface would be equidistant to the crank centerline in 4 different places, the cylinder bores.
Sorry the video didn't show him setting up the block and measuring from crank center line...he had already done that. If I recall the measurements for each corner; .023" high, .021", .018 high, and the lowest corner .013" high. We then decked and squared up block. End result was all corners trued at at .000". He been doing this for 32 years and does all the local muscle car, BMW, Mercedes, Ferrari, and more.
WHATS THE NAME OR MODEL OF THAT MACHINE YOUR USING THANKS
Old&crusty
That is a Kwik Way 860. They are old, but they’ll still do good work providing they aren’t wore completely out. I have one I use now.
What can you tell me about that boring machine I see you walking past. I know it’s a Schou, model 200 I believe. Just acquired one and been searching for a manual or tips on setup and using it.
Contact Garret at Kelly's Blockwelding in Culver City, CA
NO ROCK MISIC
top
Blocks should be decked from centerline of crankshaft.
That's correct...video doesn't show all the measurements..
👍👍👍
Damn why isn't he wearing ear plugs that shop has a loud noise problem
God is in the setup
Why is he using a chrome socket on an impact??????.....that's why they make impact sockets!!!!
where's this machine shop at bro
Culver City, CA
@@bmblb69 ooo cool what's the name of the shop bro
This shop must be busy, appears there is no time to clean up. That is a clue to why I don’t have a business.
Nice music in the background! I didn’t know i liked countrey😂😂
the floor is wore down a bit.
What u talkin about there aint nothing better than some country music NASHVILLE BROTHER take a ride out there on country beach in a 69 chevelle cruisin casual drinks ooomaaaannnnn thats the life with perfect machined block 👍👍👍 thats the best 😁
Cool video man !!! I didnt do this to my block !! ):
Yea I'm on the fence here. If the line bore wasn't done first than the decking would be way off. And if the line bore was off than OMG!!!
old school decking bed ….. ill past thks
Co khi aloc long Khánh dong nai
I see no measures to check left or right bank front to back center line. To me it looks like he is decking the block assuming it was already decked square. No fixture to do anything correct. Just old school basic deck from what is shown. Not on my HP block.
He's already measured from crank centerline and he's setting up the block to cut the high corners.
There is a company that makes a CBN conversion for that machine. much cleaner faster and more accurate
Yes but you will still not get the finish of a modern CBN machine. Note the toothed rack in the picture that moves the mill head it just does not travel smooth enough. Also on that type of machine it is hard to accesses the cutter head to service the cutter
Small block 400.
Made in Calgary..
ahahaha i get it V8
I'm not trying to be mean or too critical but levelling the deck using this method, which we all do isn't accurate. It is assuming the machining at the factory was accurate. Blocks of this era were way out of square to cylinder bore and each other and it causes many problems down the road.
What the video doesn't show is the measurements we took from crank center to each corner of the block. The block was .004 high on one corner, .0013 on another, .0025 on another, and .0023, hence we were setting up the block from those base measurements to true it up. After machining It checked out at zero deck height at all four corners from crank center line.
@@bmblb69 Actually BHJ made precision set up fixture that is a 2" ground shaft and adapter rings. He is just cutting the surface to the same specs as the original. The right way to do it is use a BHJ through bar and adapter rings with a front indexing plate for the 45 deg angles then level the v blocks in the machine and set the block in the fixture. This will make the decks parallel and square to the mains. The way he is machining will just copy any error that exists.
PS Thats a dart race block I dont think it was .023 OFF unless someone has butchered it and It does not have the material to correct .023 out. The deck would end up to low.
@@tomhutchins1046 No he's not cutting the block to the same bad specs...we measure from crank centerline to get the deck height then we machined the block to true up the four corners to the crank centerline.
@@bmblb69 How about the other axis will the decks be 90deg to each other and properly indexed to the cam bore? thats were the indexing plate on the BHJ fixture come in. Also taking the measurements the way he is there is plenty of tolerance involved / using the proper fixture and procedures take's all that out. As far as your zero deck measurements . Remember the pistons have taper and clearance and the pin pivots ect ect. So if your checking off the tops of the pistons your fooling yourself. He probably got it close on one plane front and back but this is not a pro job and it took him so much work and time to get sort of results. Dont get me wrong he looks like he is really trying to do it right. Just someone needs to show him the correct reliable accurate efficient and repeatable way to do it.
@@bmblb69
ua-cam.com/video/mmM3Jtmajw4/v-deo.html
This shows the fixture his machine is old and outdated and he's not quite using it correctly but it gives you the general idea
I believe the technician is mad at you for sharing his work and knowledge on you tube, he beraly say two words in the whole video.
He could care less - it's not like you can do this at home, and the amount of skill required means he could watch him all day, and you still won't know what he's doing. When it all comes down to .0001, try as you might but you'll never get it as close as these guys will.
What the heck engine has 3 exhaust ports per side for a V8? Is it a Ford?
The holes on the side are coolant core/ freeze plugs
Sua retificadora que está precisando de uma retificação muito velha e imunda
Well you got a flat surface for the gasket but that was not a quality blueprint type of job. I did not see where the center line of the crank to deck was measured. this was indicated in a manner that would level and square the deck to itself and will only remove any sag in the middle it can and probably will still be off end to end. These old machines were great in their day but that day is gone. Old shop lots of clutter old equipment. Still in business as not everyone needs high performance quaity
There’s always at least one Dickhead in the comment section
M
63 thumbs down = 63 people who obviously did not get hugged enough as a child (or something)
Just use a belt sander...waste of time...jeeeeezzzz
don't be stupid man...the accuracy of this machine far exceeds a belt sander...deck must be precisely parallel to the crank centerline...
@@bmblb69 Your the guy that never laughs at a comedy show...Jeeeeeeezzzz
Might be a good vid but had to stop it, can’t listen to that hick noise in the background.
You're an idiot...you look past the music and learn something from the video...close minded knucklehead...