This is a masterpiece example of a father teaching his son. The man is giving out absolute gold nuggets of knowledge, and the boy can't help but give that drill trigger one little squeeze. Reminds me of working with my Dad on his old car. My favorite memories.
This was great! It’s so good to see the younger generation learning about cars. I loved the mannerly way the youngster responded when asked to read the firing order. Someone is raising him right. Congratulations.
If every child had a father like you there will be a lot better place . Ps thank you for showing how to adjust the valves. My part changing electronically genius young mechanic refused (scared ) to do it so l am going to do it myself , what a jock he is !
When you get done remember probably only 20% of certified mechanic can do this easy job. Remind your mechanic that he is in the 80% range of bad mechanics, maybe that will motivate him. Then remind him your in the 20 % of the good ones...Thanks for watching
Thanks! You gave me the confidence to actually do it and the difference on my engine was very noticeable; thought I had a rod knock but it was just a loose valve train.
You are a good man sir for teaching the young fella, and more importantly he seems to really enjoy it, its fun he said, that cool rite there lol. I think you just made him a gear head for life. Good on you and him!
Another cool little vid John...Useless info #101 ...my Dad taught me the "rule of 7".... when cylinder 1 is on the rock..adjust 6, 5 and 2, 4 and 3...same as you taught Jacob...just an easy way to remember it... Ill be up for some of this soon, its been a while but now I feel a lot more confident... hahaha
You saved my car, a 68 ply valiant 100... 225 slant 6, I had 2 push rods bent, ordered 12 and had them to tight the Eng would turn but not crank, done the lash, and she fired up :) Thanks for this upload if you make another, showing each in order let me know, as I still didn't really fully understand, and after warm up i didnt/dont wanna mess with it till I do, but even still, she's running :) it was running but with 2 bent push rods not connected it was like the movie "uncle buck" car, never seen a car smoke so bad, no compression either, I thought I blew a head gasket and was in the process of taken the head off when i saw the 2 bent push rods
Wow, this brings back memories. I adjusted the valves on my '69 Valiant, 170 c.i., back in the day. I did it the slow way. Cylinder by cylinder, turning the engine manually..Wish I knew then, what you told us now. My engine was painted blue from the factory, other then that, the engine bay looks the same as mine did... Thanks for sharing!!! I saw you the other night on " Lamchop's World" and Lamchop said to check your channel out.... Stay healthy....... Yes, I try to catch Lamchops World as often as I can. I'm a tad forgetful at my age, but I do my best to remember.. OH, I learned fast, to be very careful working near cylinder #1, as the alternator has hot 12 Volts direct from the battery. I had sparks flying around and almost welded my socket to the inner wheel well...Geez...
Ya that hot lead on the alt can bite ya...Howard you brought back a memory when I was fresh out of high school I would hang out at my brother's apartment. His neighbor who's name was Howard he had a 67 dart convertible in great shape with a 170 and the valve had never been adjusted. So I did the adjustment and he would let me cruise the car around at the local hangout area. Thank for jogging my memory...good times
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 oh, you're most welcome, I'm sure. By the way, the valves in my Valiant were never adjusted either, but, when I did them, the information I got told was, measure / adjust them hot, as you sad. Then, I was told, test/ re-adjust them cold, then, repeat at hot, then cold again. I did them hot, and never went back. Enjoy these times with your son, because they don't last long.... Best regards, Howie
👍. I have a 65 dart 225 slant 6 . when I do my valve lash with a stock cam I warm the engine up then shut it off remove the valve cover lay rags across the top of the plug wires up against the block the start the car up but turn the idle way down then I adjust the lash by using a boxed end wrench with my finger over the wrench hole while on the adjuster nut and in the other hand my feeler guage and adjust to the required specs 👍. everbody has their own way of adjustements. Nice mopar ✌
Thanks for watching I have a 273 I thought about putting in the car but it runs so good with the 225 I'm going to leave it in...time to find a new home for the 273 hehe was yours a formula S or racer brown car?
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 no it was just a regular 273 barracuda. Had 60k actual miles. Ended up going into a museum somewhere. Was in excellent condition. The stock head liner we had to replace but other than that all stock. Engine still wore its original paint
Hey @talljohnsfunshop2722 I think you mentioned something about a cam shaft on this video - I've been looking at a few high mileage slant 6 trucks and was curious what I should think about (new timing chain, maybe new cam???) Thanks for all your timing videos, I reference them like a training manual :)
Hey Josh, thanks for watching. The cam I used in the barracuda is from comp cams. They have 2 solid cams listed and the 1 I used was the smaller of the two. I used it for two reasons, I didn't have to change the springs to use it and I was after economy. They did recommend a different spring but I didn't need it because low RPM. and no coil bind. The factory cam on a slant I believe was for a tractor or forklift or something cause they are not good for power and not good for economy. When I put the cam in I couldn't install it dot to dot like a normal install. It was out about 13 degrees retarded, so if you use that cam I would degree it. Ilove the cam and I am pleased with the performance. Smooth idle and a big economy jump. Some slants did come with nylon timing gears and those should be replaced. I hope this is what your after, feel free to follow up if you need more.
I wish I'd have had some more instruction on cars as a child. I started my wrenching career by repairing and modifying bicycles for my friends. I presently daily drive a '70 Belvedere wagon with a slant 6 and 3 on the tree. It's slightly modified with a Hughes STL2016-16-10 cam, oversize valves, headers and FiTech fuel injection. The combination makes it run quite snappy for a B-Body! The Hughes cam hot lash setting is .006" exhaust and .004" on the intake. To me that seems a tad tight but I don't design them. I have always set the lash after the exhaust then the intake just closed (the start of the squeeze cycle) which also has me on the base circle but this way seems to guarantee that the one I'm setting is in the middle of the base circle when the opposite cylinder is between the "blow & suck" cycle. Interesting and a sure way to insure the proper position of the compression stroke. Keep Jacob interested and busy. My hat is off to you two!
Hello Rennie I agree .006 and.004 does seem tight but im with you i dont design them so ill do what they say. one thing i did notice experimenting with lash on my slant is if your specs are tight like that make sure your engine is hot, i mean summer time just of the highway hot. those push rods expand a long way and with everything else getting hot and expanded the lash goes away fast. i get what your say on position of the base circle and it makes plenty of sense, I just hope that the base circle is round like it supposed to be. But if i was looking for every last bit of power available to me i would do it your way. I love the combo of your car. Jacobs favorite cars are wagons and the 70 belvadere is his favorite. then a slant and a 3 on the tree to boot very cool car. some day im going to build a performance minded slant but thats going to be quite some time from now thanks for your comment......love the car awesome
Thank you for the video. I just got my first slant six. 66 belvedere with 35k miles. From michigan, so a bit rusty. The catch is that it hasn't run since 1988. I went through the basics without any new parts. Cleaned up the points and cap/rotor. Got it to fire, but it wouldn't start, just backfire or hit on 2 cylinders. I just pulled the valve cover to find 2 bent pushrods, and 1 fell out. The rest feel loose with the exception of cylinder one. Where do I go from here to ensure no further damage and that I can get it running promptly? I started by soaking the valves in penetrant. Should I completely pull apart the valvetrain and ensure everything is good?
This is kinda hard to answer without looking at it. I would suggest pulling the rockers out and tapping on the valves to make sure they are closing all the way. Sometimes, if they're not closing, you can keep tapping and your keep adding your penetrant they might start going, really hard to say. Hope it helps.
so since I got a 60s slant6 in my dart with a 70s head with solid lifters and upgraded to a carter 2 barrel /intake should I stick with stock valve lash or adjust them a little more ? Also what's the max I could do on stock points distributor as far as timing , dwell and idle rpm ? I want to get the max out of this mostly stock engine . I had the head shaved 50 off and the valves worked on a little and the bowls cleaned up and a high flow single exhaust. also what's the part number on the comp cam for the slant6 you used
As far as adjusting lash I would do what the cam maker says. There can be small gains from changing the lash but you would have to have something to compare to to see what they were. The intake is a definite improvement over the 1 barrel but that wont effect lash.. far as point ignition, just like electronic you can put the timing anywhere its best for your set up. No limitations on advance. The 2 barrel and compression from the decking might make it so you might need a little less advace but not the points dist. Somewhere about 32 degrees is going to be close but go down if its pinging. Never live with a ping. No real gains from changing dwell around from whats recommended unless your spin huge RPMs.The cam grind is CR6 252S-10. I've got my idle around 650 but with a auto trans maybe 750 to 800 In park would be good.
great video, we just got a 72 valiant! grandmas garaged grocery gitter! 87k on her and no idea if valves ever checked, i thought it had to be running to do it . so i guess its a straight shot to the cam and oil pressure dosent play with the settings?
That is correct Bob o adjustment are made with the engine off oil pressure not needed. That's the way all slant were till 1976 when Chrysler changed them to hydraulic.
Where did you get the feeler gauge set from? I know they come in different sizes but was looking online don't really see the sizes it calls for?? Thank You
Joshua that would depend on the build. As far as a stock engine I really like the cam that Jacob and I installed. The car has 3.23 rear gears and everything about the engine improved. But I recommend dialing the cam in with a degree wheel.
Very cool first car. My first car was a 69 dodge dart that I still have. Jacob and I are going to start restoring it probably next year. You couldn't pick much better car than a 66, fun cars to work on and lots of fun to drive!!!
Edward that sounds fair 50000 if the engine was taken good care of is low mileage. I find 225 for much cheaper but they are usually needing a rebuild. Picked up 2 225 and a auto trans couple year's ago for 75, both engines need rebuild and the transmission they said worked when pulled. Trans went to storage 1 engine went to storage 1 engine was rebuilt and went into friends duster. We didn't replace pistons head was in good shape so the rebuild cost about 200.
Hi Kenny, whats funny is i did do assistant teaching in the high school I went to in the early to mid 80s and I enjoy passing on what info I had at the time. It was mostly teaching maintenance on the kids cars and showing that you could make a decent living for yourself without college. I still have friends that are working in the industry and a few that own there own shops now that were in those classes. Thanks for watching
Maybe but thats a leap of faith that humans can get there before our kids die. Electric cars have a long way to go. Just to make batteries right now. just to make battery's is so filthy for the environment big improvements there alone will need to be made. Fire danger is another place. But if you don't try it will never happen so maybe some day if the private sector stays involved it will get there.
This is a masterpiece example of a father teaching his son. The man is giving out absolute gold nuggets of knowledge, and the boy can't help but give that drill trigger one little squeeze. Reminds me of working with my Dad on his old car. My favorite memories.
This was great! It’s so good to see the younger generation learning about cars. I loved the mannerly way the youngster responded when asked to read the firing order. Someone is raising him right. Congratulations.
Keep on helping and paying attention Jacob! Ole pop will show you a thing or two!!
If every child had a father like you there will be a lot better place . Ps thank you for showing how to adjust the valves. My part changing electronically genius young mechanic refused (scared ) to do it so l am going to do it myself , what a jock he is !
When you get done remember probably only 20% of certified mechanic can do this easy job. Remind your mechanic that he is in the 80% range of bad mechanics, maybe that will motivate him. Then remind him your in the 20 % of the good ones...Thanks for watching
Thanks! You gave me the confidence to actually do it and the difference on my engine was very noticeable; thought I had a rod knock but it was just a loose valve train.
This was great. And useful! Thanks for making it. My ‘73 dart slant six thanks you too. 😊👍👍
You are a good man sir for teaching the young fella, and more importantly he seems to really enjoy it, its fun he said, that cool rite there lol. I think you just made him a gear head for life. Good on you and him!
Ok thank you for letting me know ,.greatest vidio on utube ever! Father and son award🎉 thank you it was very helpful.
This just reminded me of spending my childhood in a Gulf service station in the 70's.
Found your channel from watching Uncle Tony's channel
Love watching the little helpers learn. Great video!
Another cool little vid John...Useless info #101 ...my Dad taught me the "rule of 7".... when cylinder 1 is on the rock..adjust 6, 5 and 2, 4 and 3...same as you taught Jacob...just an easy way to remember it... Ill be up for some of this soon, its been a while but now I feel a lot more confident... hahaha
Thanks for sharing this, and your assistant, with us. I've been a 225er since 1976. first time i did this i tried it with the motorrunning.
there are peeps out there that claim thats the best way to do it... running. I dont do it that way and never have.
You saved my car, a 68 ply valiant 100... 225 slant 6, I had 2 push rods bent, ordered 12 and had them to tight the Eng would turn but not crank, done the lash, and she fired up :) Thanks for this upload
if you make another, showing each in order let me know, as I still didn't really fully understand, and after warm up i didnt/dont wanna mess with it till I do, but even still, she's running :) it was running but with 2 bent push rods not connected it was like the movie "uncle buck" car, never seen a car smoke so bad, no compression either, I thought I blew a head gasket and was in the process of taken the head off when i saw the 2 bent push rods
i lovee this, the reminds me of my father teaching me on our dive boat on how to work on the engine.
Wow, this brings back memories. I adjusted the valves on my '69 Valiant, 170 c.i., back in the day. I did it the slow way. Cylinder by cylinder, turning the engine manually..Wish I knew then, what you told us now. My engine was painted blue from the factory, other then that, the engine bay looks the same as mine did...
Thanks for sharing!!!
I saw you the other night on " Lamchop's World" and Lamchop said to check your channel out....
Stay healthy.......
Yes, I try to catch Lamchops World as often as I can. I'm a tad forgetful at my age, but I do my best to remember..
OH, I learned fast, to be very careful working near cylinder #1, as the alternator has hot 12 Volts direct from the battery. I had sparks flying around and almost welded my socket to the inner wheel well...Geez...
Ya that hot lead on the alt can bite ya...Howard you brought back a memory when I was fresh out of high school I would hang out at my brother's apartment. His neighbor who's name was Howard he had a 67 dart convertible in great shape with a 170 and the valve had never been adjusted. So I did the adjustment and he would let me cruise the car around at the local hangout area. Thank for jogging my memory...good times
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 oh, you're most welcome, I'm sure.
By the way, the valves in my Valiant were never adjusted either, but, when I did them, the information I got told was, measure / adjust them hot, as you sad.
Then, I was told, test/ re-adjust them cold, then, repeat at hot, then cold again.
I did them hot, and never went back.
Enjoy these times with your son, because they don't last long....
Best regards, Howie
Great video thats the way it should be father and son thank you for the great and very informative video
Good explanation of the order to adjust.👍
That's a sweet ride man I love those old Barracuda's and the 225 is a die hard engine can't killem
The old Plymouth Bible. Always a fascinating read.
👍. I have a 65 dart 225 slant 6 . when I do my valve lash with a stock cam I warm the engine up then shut it off remove the valve cover lay rags across the top of the plug wires up against the block the start the car up but turn the idle way down then I adjust the lash by using a boxed end wrench with my finger over the wrench hole while on the adjuster nut and in the other hand my feeler guage and adjust to the required specs 👍. everbody has their own way of adjustements. Nice mopar ✌
Found ya on lambchop page.first time I been in. I had that same barracuda exc mine was a 273. Great car. Love those slants.
Thanks for watching I have a 273 I thought about putting in the car but it runs so good with the 225 I'm going to leave it in...time to find a new home for the 273 hehe was yours a formula S or racer brown car?
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 no it was just a regular 273 barracuda. Had 60k actual miles. Ended up going into a museum somewhere. Was in excellent condition. The stock head liner we had to replace but other than that all stock. Engine still wore its original paint
Hey @talljohnsfunshop2722 I think you mentioned something about a cam shaft on this video - I've been looking at a few high mileage slant 6 trucks and was curious what I should think about (new timing chain, maybe new cam???) Thanks for all your timing videos, I reference them like a training manual :)
Hey Josh, thanks for watching. The cam I used in the barracuda is from comp cams. They have 2 solid cams listed and the 1 I used was the smaller of the two. I used it for two reasons, I didn't have to change the springs to use it and I was after economy. They did recommend a different spring but I didn't need it because low RPM. and no coil bind. The factory cam on a slant I believe was for a tractor or forklift or something cause they are not good for power and not good for economy. When I put the cam in I couldn't install it dot to dot like a normal install. It was out about 13 degrees retarded, so if you use that cam I would degree it. Ilove the cam and I am pleased with the performance. Smooth idle and a big economy jump. Some slants did come with nylon timing gears and those should be replaced. I hope this is what your after, feel free to follow up if you need more.
I wish I'd have had some more instruction on cars as a child. I started my wrenching career by repairing and modifying bicycles for my friends.
I presently daily drive a '70 Belvedere wagon with a slant 6 and 3 on the tree. It's slightly modified with a Hughes STL2016-16-10 cam, oversize valves, headers and FiTech fuel injection. The combination makes it run quite snappy for a B-Body!
The Hughes cam hot lash setting is .006" exhaust and .004" on the intake. To me that seems a tad tight but I don't design them.
I have always set the lash after the exhaust then the intake just closed (the start of the squeeze cycle) which also has me on the base circle but this way seems to guarantee that the one I'm setting is in the middle of the base circle when the opposite cylinder is between the "blow & suck" cycle.
Interesting and a sure way to insure the proper position of the compression stroke.
Keep Jacob interested and busy. My hat is off to you two!
Hello Rennie I agree .006 and.004 does seem tight but im with you i dont design them so ill do what they say. one thing i did notice experimenting with lash on my slant is if your specs are tight like that make sure your engine is hot, i mean summer time just of the highway hot. those push rods expand a long way and with everything else getting hot and expanded the lash goes away fast. i get what your say on position of the base circle and it makes plenty of sense, I just hope that the base circle is round like it supposed to be. But if i was looking for every last bit of power available to me i would do it your way. I love the combo of your car. Jacobs favorite cars are wagons and the 70 belvadere is his favorite. then a slant and a 3 on the tree to boot very cool car. some day im going to build a performance minded slant but thats going to be quite some time from now thanks for your comment......love the car awesome
your using what is called 'the companion cylinders method' to adjust the valves, it's the one I use and teach, good way to do it
Thanks for the info
Thank you for the video. I just got my first slant six. 66 belvedere with 35k miles. From michigan, so a bit rusty. The catch is that it hasn't run since 1988. I went through the basics without any new parts. Cleaned up the points and cap/rotor. Got it to fire, but it wouldn't start, just backfire or hit on 2 cylinders. I just pulled the valve cover to find 2 bent pushrods, and 1 fell out. The rest feel loose with the exception of cylinder one. Where do I go from here to ensure no further damage and that I can get it running promptly? I started by soaking the valves in penetrant. Should I completely pull apart the valvetrain and ensure everything is good?
This is kinda hard to answer without looking at it. I would suggest pulling the rockers out and tapping on the valves to make sure they are closing all the way. Sometimes, if they're not closing, you can keep tapping and your keep adding your penetrant they might start going, really hard to say. Hope it helps.
so since I got a 60s slant6 in my dart with a 70s head with solid lifters and upgraded to a carter 2 barrel /intake should I stick with stock valve lash or adjust them a little more ? Also what's the max I could do on stock points distributor as far as timing , dwell and idle rpm ? I want to get the max out of this mostly stock engine . I had the head shaved 50 off and the valves worked on a little and the bowls cleaned up and a high flow single exhaust. also what's the part number on the comp cam for the slant6 you used
As far as adjusting lash I would do what the cam maker says. There can be small gains from changing the lash but you would have to have something to compare to to see what they were. The intake is a definite improvement over the 1 barrel but that wont effect lash.. far as point ignition, just like electronic you can put the timing anywhere its best for your set up. No limitations on advance. The 2 barrel and compression from the decking might make it so you might need a little less advace but not the points dist. Somewhere about 32 degrees is going to be close but go down if its pinging. Never live with a ping. No real gains from changing dwell around from whats recommended unless your spin huge RPMs.The cam grind is CR6 252S-10. I've got my idle around 650 but with a auto trans maybe 750 to 800 In park would be good.
That kids gonna be successful when he's older
Glad to see Larry WIlcox is doing good these days.
I adjusted mine on my 63 Dart to the truck specs of 12 and 24.
That's a little loose but a little loose is better than a little to tight in my opinion
great video, we just got a 72 valiant! grandmas garaged grocery gitter! 87k on her and no idea if valves ever checked, i thought it had to be running to do it . so i guess its a straight shot to the cam and oil pressure dosent play with the settings?
That is correct Bob o adjustment are made with the engine off oil pressure not needed. That's the way all slant were till 1976 when Chrysler changed them to hydraulic.
Where did you get the feeler gauge set from? I know they come in different sizes but was looking online don't really see the sizes it calls for?? Thank You
Oreilly auto parts
Did you do that with the motor already hot?
Yes hot
Lucky kid 👍😎👍
is there no lock nuts on the adjusters?
No, they are self locking
In long mileages engines I’ve seen gaps like 25” intake and 50”outtake
What exact cam would you recommend
Joshua that would depend on the build. As far as a stock engine I really like the cam that Jacob and I installed. The car has 3.23 rear gears and everything about the engine improved. But I recommend dialing the cam in with a degree wheel.
Any idea what position those bolt spacers are supposed to be in?
wider one goes in the middle of the shaft
I'm thinking about buying a 1966 plymouth barracuda as a first project car and a car to cruise around in and enjoy.
Very cool first car. My first car was a 69 dodge dart that I still have. Jacob and I are going to start restoring it probably next year. You couldn't pick much better car than a 66, fun cars to work on and lots of fun to drive!!!
John , guy has a 225 and trans for $350.00 with about 50,000 on the car , your thoughts?
Edward that sounds fair 50000 if the engine was taken good care of is low mileage. I find 225 for much cheaper but they are usually needing a rebuild. Picked up 2 225 and a auto trans couple year's ago for 75, both engines need rebuild and the transmission they said worked when pulled. Trans went to storage 1 engine went to storage 1 engine was rebuilt and went into friends duster. We didn't replace pistons head was in good shape so the rebuild cost about 200.
You should be a school teacher with the patience you have
Hi Kenny, whats funny is i did do assistant teaching in the high school I went to in the early to mid 80s and I enjoy passing on what info I had at the time. It was mostly teaching maintenance on the kids cars and showing that you could make a decent living for yourself without college. I still have friends that are working in the industry and a few that own there own shops now that were in those classes. Thanks for watching
photos.app.goo.gl/J3ZQBQAuoLVFUHfm8 got her done, even made my own switch to rotate motor like you guys did!
Very cool it's fun to do I think I bet it sound great and runs great too👍👍👍
the best way to adjust the valves on a 225 is to do it when the engine is running, in your way, it is very easy to adjust your valves too loose.
That is a myth
Nostalgic , but our kids will be using volt-ohm meters to check cell voltages state of charge.
Maybe but thats a leap of faith that humans can get there before our kids die. Electric cars have a long way to go. Just to make batteries right now. just to make battery's is so filthy for the environment big improvements there alone will need to be made. Fire danger is another place. But if you don't try it will never happen so maybe some day if the private sector stays involved it will get there.