How to make a "Hawken Era" Muzzleloading Possibles Bag | Beginner Leather Pouch | NMLRA
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
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On this week's episode of Craftsman's corner from the NMLRA, we're going to show you how to make this “Hawken Era” hunting pouch, inspired by Madison Grants, “The Kentucky Rifle Hunting Pouch”.
Featured on Plate no. 70 in the book, this pouch is described as follows
“Circa 1845-1855. Well made commercial pouch of heavy black cowhide. The outstanding feature is the shaped flap which is bound on the edge and has coinciding patterns of impressed tool work. Above the brass button closure is a sunburst design topped by diagonal hash marks.
The scabbard, being hand made, is probably a later addition by the owner. The knife is of the kitchen variety with a homemade wooden grip. A variable iron powder measure is suspended by a chain”
This won’t be an exact copy of the pouch described above, if you follow these directions, you should get “pretty close”. From there, you can personalize the pouch into something of your creation, or follow the description and make a more direct copy of the original. For this tutorial, I’ve left out the pouch flap edge binding, the brass button, and the knife sheath, (which can be added at a later date, just as the original was).
To get started, I’m using some 8 oz vegetable tanned hide that is colored a light brown. If you don’t know how to find the weight of your leather, check out this link for a handy guide
The tools I’m using on this project are
Tape measure/Ruler
Artificial sinew
4 prong stitching chisel
Awl
White pencil
2 Blunt needles
Binder Clips
A Pair of Dividers
Heavy scissors
Chisels, one flat, one slightly curved
Knife
Rotary cutter
Leather dye
Leather hole punch
You don’t need all these tools, all of the cutting can be done with a knife or scissors.
Start by printing out the free pattern included with this article, cut along the outside of the heavy black lines, or the grey lines depending on your choice of personalization, and then trace the paper pattern cut-outs onto some cereal box cardboard, or other thin cardboard you have around your workspace. Thin cardboard like this is a great way to keep a durable set of patterns handy for any future projects you might have.
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Take your cobblers hammer and beat on the completed stitching to countersink the stitching so that it is flush with the surface of the leather to give a more finished appearance. Also when using rubber cement to hold the pieces together after finishing the stitching, use a piece of gum rubber like a pencil eraser to remove any rubber cement that is showing.
It's stitched inside out so not a big deal on this pouch.🤷
Interesting video.
Some personal observations.
If I'm making a blackpowder bag, I don't use waxed nylon thread.
Waxed linen is as strong and historically accurate.
I always line my bags with striped cotton pillow ticking.
Barge cement to leather pieces. Adds a little more structure to the leather.
Get yourself a stitching pony ! You'll have to adjust the pieces in the clamp, when going around corners but its like another set of hands.
A good rule of thumb is to measure just under your ribcage over your shoulder for the strap.
Look around for handwoven straps.
Finish them with a buckle and enclose the ends with leather.
Thanks for sharing.
Boy I’ve been looking for someone like you. Perfect. From land of free Britain?😢
Boy, that was neat! Came out nice.
That's so beautiful, the steps are also very easy to follow
I love this sort of thing!
If your looking for an authentic possibilities bag and struggling with fixing the pieces together for stitch-up… Hide glue would absolutely have been used around that time on leather crafts. Another classic glue would have been a pine pitch glue.
Amazing craftsmanship!
That turned out nice .
Nice work love it
Nice bag, thank you so much.
Very nice, thanks 🙏🏻
Some observations: it matters how you layout the pieces. It is best to have the orientation to the grain should be the same. The bag will stretch i the same way. Second always treat the leather after dying. The dying process dries the leather out. For a bag to be used outdoors, you need protection against getting wet. I would recommend the book re-creating the 18th century hunting pouch by T C Albert.. Never drill leather. Always use an awl. Drilling removes material. Piercing means the fibre close around the stitch. The technique you show for sewing is not really saddle stitch. Two needle stitch is far better and stronger. Use a clamp to hold the work. It keeps the tension in the stitching far neater. For choice of material, I would say 8 ounce is way too heavy. It will give problems. I prefer using elk or deer skin. Failing that sheep skin is far easier to sew, more supple than cow and is stronger.
If I may be so bold to suggest, you really should purchase a stitching pony (or even better build one - less expensive). It will make sewing your saddle stitch much easier. Otherwise a good video. You could even make a video on making a stitching pony.
I need to make one for my hawken, maybe add some fringe
In the welding profession, we call them stitches your using to hold the parrs together before you actually start sowing tack welds. So in a sense. Your putting tack stitches.
Another way of holding your leather in place while you punch your holes is to lay your pieces on a piece of wood and tack it in a few places with small tacks
I made one almost identical to yours this past fall just before BP season for my Brown Bess, instead of making one large inner pouch I divided it up into pockets just big enough to hold my spare flints on one side, and a small pouch on the other side for small items. I also made a ball starter pouch just big enough to hold the long end of my starter on the sling portion that crosses my chest. I put a tether on the starter because I always seem to find a way to fumble and drop it when it's a cold morning out. Nice job, I think I might pull out my leather and see if I can make one a little more like yours for a spare. Oh no, if I do that, then that means I will need to build that Southern Mountain rifle that I have been eyeing just to have a gun to go with the pouch.
Oh no, that would be a shame! Not another rifle for a collection!
I’ve been eying getting my first flintlock and the Kibler Woddsrunner caught my eye hard lol
If the leather thickness is listed as metric, one millimeter equals .039" inches or about 2 and 1/2 ounce thickness. (one 64th = .015 thousandths/inch)
Looks great. Show us the contents once you get that all together. Are you using the oil based dyes or the alcohol based dyes?
When I printed the free pattern it was super small. I used calipers to extend it an inch on each side and one inch in depth.
I like this project and would like to try making one but slightly larger and deeper from front to back with a side strip around the bag part about 2 1/2 inches wide with an inside band to hold a powder flask upright but I am wondering if a speedy stitcher can be used for sewing it together or not also if artificial sinew would be best for sewing it also instead waxed thread? Please let me know what you think.
The rough side of your leather is not the “fur” side, the smooth side is the “fur “ side.
You need to invest in a stitching wheel. 7 or 8 stitches per inch. This pre marks your stitches neatly not only on straight lines but even more so around corners. It makes for more even stitching...
And use it for an over stitch wheel after stitching to even up the stitch line and "set" the stitching below the surface.
Nice bag, I used some nice not to thick but soft and pliable boar hide to make this bag. I use the same to make moccasins and it is strong. Where is the pattern??
Is there a way to repost the pattern? Its not on the website. Thank you
wait but why stitch the strap to the inside of the bag ..... It seems like a cool idea but I'm just curious if there is a specific reason or if I'm wrong in thinking that most of my bags have their straps sewn to the outside of the back panel. If both ways are okay which would you recommend and for what reason? Thank you - also really enjoy/appreciate your videos super cool man.
And how can you add the knife sheath and powderhorn to the bag
When you were putting the inside pocket on and punched the holes on each side to temporarily hold while you punched the rest, when you scribed your stitch line it came out a little off. Why didn't you scribe the line before you punched any holes, then you would know that all of the holes would line up from one end to the other?
I need more information on those tiny little dividers. I need a set.
@@nationalmuzzleloadingrifle8871 I have a few pairs just never really found a tiny pair like those.... I really need a set lol
Can anyone explain to me what a welt is for on the inside of the bag??
Nice tutorial. Now do a horn!!
The pattern you referred to no longer appears to be available on that website. Any chance of reposting a link to the pattern, or posting on a different site?
Yes. Please. I need it too
i can't find the printable pattern
Where is the pattern please.
Where is a good place to purchase the leather?
Where is the pdf hiding?
where do you buy your leather and supplies for sewing
Tandy Leather is a good source.
What was the name of the book?
Can you go into more detail about what leather that actually is? I've got eight ounce veg tanned tooling leather and that is nothing like it.
Looks more like a Chrome Tanned Leather or possibly and Oil tanned split.
Judging from the “pull up” on it at some points it looked to be possibly and oil tanned leather another reason it’s so pliable. Most veg tan esp the longer it sits the harder it will get.
@@nationalmuzzleloadingrifle8871
Thanks for letting me know what you can.
I got a Antique coal forge & 3 Antique Anvils for sale or trade!!!!!
Non alcohol dyes are better for leather
Hawkin Era ?????
To be historically correct what you show and describe is a shooting bag. A possibles bag was almost as big as the modern military duffle bag and was carried on the back of a pack animal.
Nice purse, guy! But now you need shoes to match.