The 3 *MOST VITAL MAINTENANCE* Items for your Volvo!!
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- Опубліковано 16 кві 2021
- Hi Guys,
In todays video I discuss the 3 most important maintenance items for a Volvo!
#Volvo #Volvotips #VolvoMaintenance Donate to support the Drivelife channel here: www.paypal.me/drivelifeyt - Авто та транспорт
In the last ten years I have owned a number of Volvos - C70's, V70's ( petrol and diesel) and presently I have two XC70's - one 2005 D5 Euro3 auto 5 speed with 201K, the other a 2008 Euro4 D5 auto 6 speed Lux with Volvo's Polestar upgrade @ 159K and a 2000 C70 petrol manual with 112K. They all get oil changes (Shell Helix Ultra full synth) with Luiqi Moly Ceratec @ 5K or one year whichever comes first (the C70 is usually driven less than 1K miles/year). The autos get a transmission dump (Mannol full synth) every spring with Lube Guard Red. They all run faultlessly and transmissions are silky smooth.
Do the fluid change for the gear box, already. Great advice. Cheers from Romania.
I ran a V70 to 430,000 miles, oil changes at 18000 intervals with no engine problems at all. Agree high quality oil, used Castrol Edge.
Cover electronic dipsticks, danger of overfilling, and EGR valves on the Volvo as these are important with regard to engine damage.
I'm really enjoying finding out info. My volvo cabriolet is currently off the road due to a belt snapping and knocking cam belt off . Catastrophic a (newish) engine is currently been fitted. Keep you video's coming they are very useful and informative.
Can't wait to see the transmission oil change I've been following all your videos to help me keep on top of my v70 d5 as for some reason I find you easiest to understand and I watch a lot of Volvo stuff. I'm on 80000 now so the transmission is the next big one for me , hope you do a good long video on it and show the best oil for the transmission .
Super useful as always!! Already ordered cambelt kit and other belts for my beloved XC70 '08. Curious to see the transmission oil changing video!!
Just got my first Volvo a few days ago and really enjoying your videos! I’ve always wanted a Volvo! My Volvo is a 2011 s45, bit of an older car but it’s still in good condition ❤
Did you mention to change the water pump when you do the timing belt. Not sure if I missed that bit. If so that is always my advice on any car.
Outstanding! In my 2012 Volvo S60T4 I go to 10,000 Km or 6 months whichever comes first! The replacement of the transmission fluid is another must!
Good advice. Cheers
I wish I had done my research sooner and came across your videos years ago, we bought a used Volvo, FSH but there was no gearbox oil change done (I assumed FSH it would have been done)- always check that it's been done.
Now dealing with sticky solenoid issues in the valve body
Hey, loving the Volvo Vids. I’ve learned so much since I brought my XC90 D5 two weeks ago. I have to buy a swirl flap kit and some other bits. Any idea for websites, or places to buy these bits (staying away from main dealer)
On AWD models it is recommended to change the oil on the rear differential, haldex, and front angle gear 👍🏻
Change the AWD haldex and filter unit every 40k miles.
Changes front/rear axles every 60k miles.
Note: Volvo states AWD/haldex is lifetime. Sorry to say it is not.
Save driving everyone.
My 2013 xc60 d4, 200.000 miles,never had an oil change sooner than 18.000 miles, with the highest mileage on a single oil change of 25.000 miles, the engine is in perfect condition
Change the water pump when doing the cambelt. And change every 5 years even if the mileage has not been covered. Same with oil. Maximum interval every 12 months even if low miles.
I enjoyed with this video, it seems that you are a Volvo expert. I own 2 Volvos an S40 2.4i 2007 and recently bought a XC60 T6 3,2 2013 this is the best machine I ever drove in my entire life. Yet not all is good in life (😀😎) the dreaded CEL p0420 came to ruin my happy days….😂 Thus I made a research finding many many owners changed their cats (cat conv) as well as O2 sensors upstream and down wether bsnk1 or 2, PCV valve, fuel tap etc etc and the magnificent CEL kept shining on the dashboard 🤺🤷🏻♀️. Therefore, I wonder if you or somebody may give me a clue in what’s going on with Volvo and if the headquarters gave a solution for that. I’m from Argentina, here cats are bloody expensive nearly 3500 USD but thing’s that I resist to believe that it is that part, from my view there must be something hidden that’s causing this issue with CEL. The vehicle passed the emission test outstandingly well with zero HC accelerated/idling and 0.01 % CO accelerated/ idling. I took it to the dealer they changed a failed coil , I was happy for 30 km driving on the highway, up until Mr CEL the silver dagger was back again. The dealer say drive it because nothing’s going to happen keeping in mind that the issue will be solved by changing the cat. Shaun my own thought is that there might be a hidden tiny issue that is causing it. Whether the fuel tap, a diaphragm or any clue that you probably know? Many many thanks🙏
10,000 miles or 15,000 km is the right interval to change fluids on a car. If you want to test the viscosity of the engine oil, just a drop from the dip stick on your thumb and draw with the 'working' finger. If it slips at less than 1 cm, the oil need to be changed. And use the same make and type of oil, because the engine get used to the product.
Tommorrow all but the brake fluids are to be changed on my XC 70 2008. Haldex 3 and filters, pump clean with electrical cleaner, front gears, rear differential (same fluid) engine oil and power steering flush. The gear shift from 1st is a bit of a thump at times so transmission fluid out as well. Its only done 75km I think that is 49k in old money. I wont to upgrade the breaks as its a heavy bus, looking towards EBC but no one seems to love the Volvos enough to do brake upgrades.
All the work is done. It has made a noticeable difference. No blip when accelerating from a standstill. occasionally I use to have a heavy/aggressive start, My wife would ask, is that you or the car. The transmission fluid change is noticeable. I was concerned at first as I had a few knocks going into reverse on the first day but now its silky smooth. While on the ramp I could not get the car past 3rd gear as all the electronic gubbings would be confused as it had no wheels on the ground. The steering has far less play in it and has greater feel, sensitivity. Something else must be afoot as well as it runs away more down hills and for the first 2 days I kept wheel spinning it out of junctions with the same throttle input. Well worth the investment in time and oils.
If you change your transmission fluid never power flush. Just empty the fluid change filter and replace with new fluid. Power flush can put pieces of crap in the transmission veins. Automatic transmissions are very complicated. You can also flush some of the crap that is stopping the transmission from leaking out the gaskets. You can cause transmission slipping and that will just suck.
Having purchased a s60 D5 2.4 2011 auto 99,000 from a specialist dealer full history fresh belt and oil service, I was concerned regard to transmission oil change contacted the dealer who to be fair has 50 years experience with Volvos and runs V70 with 150,000 miles they said Yes we will carry out a transmission oil change if I wanted but not recommended unless your experiencing problems, the s60 drives with no issues and I love it, I am tempted to draw some fluid from the filler pug and check the state of it.
Would you recommend changing the gearbox oil on a manual car and what engine oil do you use for your car?
I’m buying 2004 Volvo S60 2.5t for 1500 Canadian definitely needs this work with 390000km on it
Does the gearbox oil need to be done on a manual at the same intervals? I have a 1.6 diesel , 2011.
Appreciated your vid! Was thinking to buy a used 2011-2013 S60/XC60/V70 think the P3 chassis Petrol version under 2.5L. What’s your recommendation eg. T4,T5? Is owning a used Volvo an expensive up keeping?
Depending on where you live. I have a 2015 xc70 t6 and I love every minute I spend in this car. Saying this parts aren't cheap and if you want to service it at dealer it is going to be expensive. I started doing stuff myself and I'm saving half or more of the cost. I can usually buy all the tools needed and still fall in under 50% of cost quoted by dealership. Already failed on my car (fixed under warranty) main shaft, front column bearings, accessory belt and water pump, front stabilizers, one of headlamps failing LED. Still to do hatch actuators. I don't fix them because if I do something else is prone to break ;) still a lovely car to drive.
When I visited the Volvo dealership a year ago, inquiring about a gearbox change/flush, they really didn't want to offer the service; they said that unless you are experiencing tell-tale signs of gearbox 'wear', don't touch it, it's more likely you'll induce a problem than prevent it... not sure how much truth there is behind this, seems an odd thing for the dealership to say so I'm guessing they have had some mishaps in the past. Either way, would love to hear from your experience with this when you come to do it - thanks for posting the useful vids! :)
I had my oil changed in my gear box with no problem at all afterwards. Believe me it really did need a change due to a jerking each gear shift it made. Maintain rather than cure I say.
@@kathrinecubello8989 I'm inclined to agree - might just be that they didn't want the job for whatever reason. Not really sure.
My dealership experience is similar. The simple explanation for that is transmission likely won't fail under warranty and what happens after Volvo really doesn't care about. I was also told they used to flush transmissions but they've encountered issues after fluid was changed so they stopped even offering this service to owners. Btw on AWD models you also have 2 final gears and haldex that needs a service. When? Again Volvo doesn't provide any recommendations.
My P2 V70 (year 2000) had the transmission fluid changed, think an Asin AW55 gearbox, and it induced a complete failure and breakdown of the gearbox. But I hear more positive experiences than bad
I've had two mechanic friends tell me the same thing. It is more likely to introduce a new problem if there is nothing presently wrong with the transmission. I am opting to listen to their experience.
Have volvo v70 2007 2.4 D5 geartronic
My gearbox oil change getting done next week has 75k miles on it
I change oil every 4 months
What is life of swirl flaps and arm
Great Video just wish you would stick to Miles or say both.... saves me working out 40km in miles....
Don’t forget to get under the car with a can of lubricant with silicone. Spray the axle boots and all the rubber bushings. Don’t let those dry out. They will get brittle split and fall apart. Your Welcome 🤲
“Volvo marketing jargon wasn’t as correct as it might have been” ............. hmmmm, did you mean “misleading”? 🤔 Don’t answer that! 🤣
I have a 2017 Volvo S60 T5 with 43,000 miles purchased new & following the recommended maintenance schedule. Problem is the battery indicates a Low Charge. Could this be an Alternator issue? The dealership gave me a new battery 2 years ago during a maintenance appointment.
What should I do?
Still have battery drain?
My 2010 had a known issue of the Satellite Radio receiver always searching and killing the battery in a few days. Volvo sells a little jumper cable you install to the receiver and it fixed mine.
Also they have some real parasitic battery drain, just sitting... If you leave the car sit for days or over the weekends, i would install a basic battery maintainer to your battery. They come with a quick-disconnect, so you can fully charge the battery while it's not being driven. This is also good because the battery never really fully charges even when it's driven.
Last advice- get an AGM battery for your next one. They can be drained further w/o harm and recharge faster if you make many short trips 👍 ~
@@georgehofgren6123 Thanks George. Where do you suggest I get the battery maintainer. My volvo dealership doesn't have it. I calle the parts depatment.
@ralphmoore1321 No problem 😊
Battery maintainers can be had just about anywhere... Walmart, Amazon, local power sports dealer, Harbor Freight...
They make very low powered ones to maintain scooter and motorcycles (less than 1amp) and larger ones for cars etc. Those tend to be 3 or 4amps. Get one of those.
Then install the short cable onto your battery (has eyelets). Then you can plug in the maintainer at home and leave it. 👍
I do like the 4amp Harbor Freight model.. it has a nice screen to let you know what it's doing (voltage etc). Also you can choose winter charging if you want, or AGM battery vs regular. (But that's it; it's simple to use)
If you want the top-of-the-line brand, get a "Battery Tender". Also available in 3-4amps and i believe they sell them in Walmart.
Oh, btw, your battery is inside a plastic box w/2lids... I was able to route the short cable thru them in its just long enough that i can reach it by the windshield wiper, w/o having to even pop the hood 👍 ~
www.harborfreight.com/4-amp-fully-automatic-microprocessor-controlled-battery-chargermaintainer-63350.html
@@georgehofgren6123 Thanks for the reply George. By "short cable" you mean the power cord that plugs into the house receptacle? As far as the connecting to my battery do I go Red to Red & Black to Black (ground)? Do I need to disconnect additonal wires going to the battery from the car itself? So for convenience once it's all set I can run the short cord through the top vent of the hood and run it to the home power source? Correct?
@ralphmoore1321 By 'short cable' I mean that most of the battery maintainers come with a short cable (like 1foot) that you attach to your battery, permanently screwed on, and the other end has a small universal plug that all maintainers accept. So once you attach that short cable to your battery you can leave it there permanently and actually use any maintainer (like if the one you buy dies).
In other words, there's no alligator clips involved....
Once connected you can reach that little plug either by popping the hood or (w/my xc70) it just reaches to where the windshield wipers hide. I plug my maintainer into it and then plug the maintainer into my home outlet (so if this hasn't answered the question: No the short cable has nothing to do with house power, outlet, etc... it just replaces alligator clips which aren't permanent and would be annoying to always have to clip off and on).
These maintainers do Also come with the alligator clips, which is its own "short cable"... has the exact same tiny plug, but spring clips at the battery.
Whats new here is that it used to be that all battery charges, maintainers etc Only had alligator clips.. meaning you couldn't really use them for a permanent install. But also that without some way to unplug the maintainer from the car, why would you permanently connect the maintainer to the battery. Hence they all (almost all) now have this convenient little in-line plug so you can just plug the maintainer into the car, or disconnect and go when you want to leave.
Btw, the really cheap ones ($10-25) aren't waterproof. But all the ones over $30- are, in case you leave it connected outside.
And also, I don't think you're supposed to start the car with the maintainer plugged into it (like if you wanted to warm up the car before you leave: still disconnect the maintainer first).
Most also include a fuse in that "short cable". So if one day you're maintainer doesn't indicate that it's charging, just check the fuse. I have had mine blow.
All of this should Definitely help with the health of the battery, esp if you leave the car sitting for any lengths of time 💁♂️
LIfe time of the car according to manufacturer's = Warranty period
SHED-YOOL
Grrrrrr...
This is a video how to remote start a Volvo, however i think it is strictly model specific and only on US models, i think. Interesting nonetheless---ua-cam.com/video/fjCYrPwiGWY/v-deo.html