Love all of the "Capatain Obvious" co ments about welding a nut or bolt to the broken stud. 99 percent of people with this problem dont have a welder, or know how tonuse them. This is a great alternative.
@CoolasIce2 You're right. I staged it. I had to grip the screw drive with both hands and turn at the shoulders to crack it free. You can't do that with a camera in your hand.
There's a method I demonstrate in another video where you weld a nut to the bolt. This heats it as much as a torch would AND gives you a means to grip it to get it out.
@spelunkerd That's a great idea. I'm confident if it's sticking out or flush, bu this was pretty recessed. The other nice thing about welding to them is they get torch hot which breaks up the electrolysis.
Have you ever tried welding a nut on top ie filling the hole in the nut with weld them getting a socketon it to extract the stud. Worth a try if yiu ever get stuck
a method i used and the bolt was seized on a gsxr 1100 exhaust stud that broke was this take a 7mm socket and cut the top to resemble a castle, then cut to 45 degrees, it will resemble a tiny hole saw, its not super hard but were only cutting alloy, put overbroken stud and drill, this will cut alloy from around the bolt, then knock a 5.5 socket onto stud if still tight do not round off! simply cut deeper with 7mm hole cutter then retry, it WILL come out and leave enough thread to re use
My exhaust stud has a nut rusted to the stud. If I where to heat the area red with an oxy acetylene torch. What are the chances the nut would pull out the stud since they are rusted together? Thank you
i have this problem with a boat motor.. however im lucky enough to have a little of the bolt sticking out.. i tried vice grips, tapping it.. putting on a nut ... nothing worked... any suggestion?
some twerp who owned my bike before me sheared a bolt that holds a small bracket infront of the front sprocket, dont want to use a dremel cutter on it too many sensitive parts near. Its a 4 or maybe 5 mm bolt. Sheared off flush. No welder available. Any help?
Great job Some times we have to find a way to get the job done and i know all about broken bolts !!!! Right now i am trying to blow out some exaust boltd with a tourch with out killing the threads and its not looking good because i cant get the tip where i need it.
Great to hear from you! lol It depends on the type of materials. If it's into cast iron I would either build or buy a jig so you can direct a drill bit into it straight. It's not fun or easy, but that's what I'd do. From there you can easy out or just keep drilling bigger and then tap the hole.
My favorite is when you use an impact driver to remove a screw and the tip on the driver snaps off flush with the screw. The hardened bits are tough to drill out, it makes a bad situation even worse. Last time it happened on a Phillips screw head, did the same thing you did - grabbed the Dremel and cut a straight slot in it, then used a ‘better’ quality impact driver and it came out.
Mr.briansmobile1 i have a slipping bolt on cam head cover how to fix the slipping bolt ? its rotating to a certain point it feels tight but after it slips please help...........
I have a slightly bigger issue. Stud has snapped of clean, but its also seized into the hole. So a slice with the dremmel and then a perfect fit screwdriver didn't work. Any idea's? I haven't tried drilling it yet, didn't want to risk any slip ups before I could try all other alternatives.
plug weld a nut to the bolt guys . mig is great for that or TIG if there is sensitive gear around it . still works if the bolt is broken lower than the surface when you have Ali or cast iron surrounds as the steel weld metal wont stick to the outer thread the bolt will shrink once it cools down and the expansion / contracting cycle breaks the corrosion or rust bonding . best method i ever found . wish i had $1 for every guy i taught that to.
I've got a couple of stripped out stud holes on my 75' cb550. I'm wondering if I can just drill it and re-thread to 7mm instead of using a heli-coil? I think they're 6 and it would make sense to go to 7 or 8 even. How wide a mm can i go before screwing myself?
The manifold stud on the lead cylinder part that faces the front that gets all the weather broke. MIG welding and not onto it broke every time. No room to get a drill bit to drill it to healy coil it. Just if I had like a quarter of an inch more. I'm going to try loosening the front rotor mount and see if I can jack the engine up just enough to get the drill by the frame and try that. It was just one of those little Canadian Tire 110 MIG welders. Flux core I'm wondering if it just wasn't getting hot enough and deep enough penetration on the stud should I weld one nut to it or should I weld too when on top of each other. New to the channel I subscribe thanks
Hi have one stuck in my bike, it was a stainless steel bolt which snapped. There is enough room do drill it straight with a reverse bit, is there any brand that you could recommend I don't want to have to keep buying more or risk it snapping off etc.
I got a '95 Yammi Warrior (ATV) with a stuck exhaust stud OUTSIDE the hole. I could probably slot it pretty easy without getting into the head. But I've tried everything I could think of besides this and welding a nut on. I don't have a welder is why I haven't tried welding a bolt on. Could this work? I haven't tried because I was able to get vice grips on and it still wouldn't budge.
Hi Brian, I've got myself in a pickle with a bolt that snapped off inside my turbos turbine housing. I drilled a hole in it and tried to use a screw extractor but it just won't budge. I gave it loads of heat and WD40 but it won't budge. I then put a big drill bit down the hole hoping that would free any pressure on the threads so I could work the rest out but no, it's like it's just become part of the housing and if I go any bigger with drill bits im going to chew up the thread. Any suggestions?
Good video. I think you did a good job on the demonstration and block of instruction. You explained everything in detail to include the mutilation of the screwdriver
According to the manufacturer, you could use aluminum brazing rod HTS-2000 to fill in that slot and possibly galled threads by installing a stud, heating, then applying the rod. Maybe even repair that bit of fin. I plan to try it soon with a stripped shroud mount on a VW engine.
we're in same problem, my bike was broken stud but it was deep situation, pls. advice, is it right to remove the engine to put in machine shop or just do it by my self using electric drill to remove the stud?
Been there. Done that. Thankfully it wasnt completely seized in there. Thats what im dealing with restoring an 85 YTM225DRN. Guy left it out in a pasture for years and nearly every bolt on the lower half has done this to me. It will be getting LOTS of antiseize upon reassembly.
Alright so on my dirtbike, the exact same bolt broke. But how do i replace it? What do i replace it with? I just replaced the exhaust the i was tightening it and it just snapped.
this was brilliant man it helped alot mine was broken off by the previous owner in his attempt to put a race exhaust on a 95 wolverine luckily it was a good 1" 1/2 of bolt exposed
in the head in my dirtbike there is welded studs thet the head goes on and then you put nuts on top of the head, i snapped the stud by accadent/ anything i can do appart from buying a new cylender
Not ghetto at all!!!! I've had a guy try to drill out a broken bolt and drill all the way thru to a water jacket. Always good th leave it to us pro's. Nice fix. Good on ya for savin the bike.
@gurrtiger There's the controversy I was talking about. Refer to 1:23 where I talk about how the owner butchered the opportunity to do what you just said. ( the right way)
This happened to me recently by it broke off there was a little bit left sticking out and I used vice gripes all it did was flatten and ruin it so either your idea or I use an EZ out kit
depends how far down the hole it is, but i have extended my electrode and removed bolts that are 1/4" down the hole using that method aswell. You could also try a left handed drill, but if its really stuck, that won't work, next thing is extractors, but I rarely have luck with them :)
Great video. So many of these problems we run into wouldn't exist if the last guy that wrenched on it had assembled the parts with anti-seize, proper torque, chasing threads, etc. you know. Everybody just wants to force stuff to fit and then put a breaker bar on it.
had to dismantle exhaust and reinstal but on reassembling my bolt snapped hard inside. drilled middle and used easy out..got half the bolt out but it snapped again so some still deep inside,drilled again and reused easy out and BOOM snapped deep also.OK so question would be do i drill that mofo out and re thread for larger bolt when its done or buy new cylinder head which would set me back say 80 quid/uk..any suggestions welcome & had to buy new easy out for the lender.i fucked it big time lol
Ive got a leaking exhaust on my CB600, ive looked at the head, and one of the bolts is so rusted theirs no nut on it and the bolt is pointed (dam those gritter lorrys lol) I have some easy outs, but think the bolt is so far gone they wont work, think its going to be drilling the bolt out, but yea, against an aluminium head.... Not gonna lie, ive being dreading this job for years, but think this year it will fail the MOT its that bad so im gonna have to have ago at it
Hey Hughie,I have/ride a '57 Harley Hardtail w/ a '93 EVO Drivetrain.On mine the right side exhaust stud broke-off due to prior rust that I was unaware of.I have been trying to learn how to get her out and B rians solution is by for the best I've heard. If the only "true" damage was a broken {small } fin ,than "KUDOS" to you brian,is something I doubt your Mr.Hely would even notice,unless you told him. To me this is a great idea,I've been building 'em and ridin' 'em for over 50 years and sometimes you gotta do what you have too !! partner
good one true. hex I hope u got your head bolts out. I got my brothers xterra with one snapped exhaust stud that's y im here. im lucky, I have a now round 14mm nut and had enough meat to get a new bolt half threaded on. I JB-welded the new nut to the old stripped one where they pair up and also some in the hole, it was oozing so I put an old socket on the new bolt so the extra spooj from the jb didn't prevent me from getting a socket on later. w8ing for it to setup. wish me luck!
Ive broke a bolt extractor in the broken exhaust stud on my rc51 and im stuck. Tried drolilling out the extractor but all drill bit are goin to crap. Now what?
when you've exhausted all the other options; you need to remove the cylinder head to gain proper access; when you can see it, and get at it properly the situation becomes a whole lot easier; welding a nut on the top of the thread is so much better in the downhand welding position' you can put enough heat in to free the thread; or you can also enlist the services of a machining workshop who can hold the offending item accuratley in a milling machine so as to be able to drill the bolt out; I did have a local garage who assured me that they've hundreds of such repairs, write off a cylinder head for my gs 450; i then took it to a proper machine shop who repaired it no problems whatsoever; it cost me £35 for the final repair; methinks the moral of this story is to do it right; get it done correctly first time. i always refit stainless steel studs with copious amounts of copper slip and to date have had no unwanted further problems
I enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work. Often you have to be creative and even crafty to solve engineering problems. Let me add I watched your vid on motorbike carbs and it helped me a great deal. Mine are now clean and running well !!
i hate when exhaust studs break off in a head. never done one on a bike. but chevy 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 are notorious for having the rear bolts on the manifolds break off, so then you have to remove the manifolds and try to drill them out of the head with the heads still on and no room against the firewall, or remove the heads and try. breaking the extractor in the stud sucks, and the machine shop always gives us crap when we send them with broken extractors.
@briansmobile1 yup it sure does, but all the ones i have tryed was molded in and not threaded ,so welding a bolt to a female as head has being a fried for years,but if this work ,its just cool.
Good job, Brian. I like the welding-a-nut idea, as well. There's another way, if you can do TIG welding with low amperage DCEN TIG, on a steel bolt with aluminum casing. Go to the youtube channel weldingtipsandtricks, find the last video where he talks about a slide hammer puller. It's amazing how he can weld the end of a broken bolt, deep in a hole without melting the casing.
that bolt would have to be frozen in the threads to be twisted off that looks too easy. how about doing a busted frozen bolt in a alum head still on the machine?
you know I do most of the work myself on my bike and ppl that post negatively on videos like this are assholes. I was changing out my exhaust for the second time and the bolt snapped clean off. Not gonna lie I freaked out and had NO IDEA what the hell I was gonna do.The only thing I did differently after watching this had nothing to do with technique. Honestly this is brilliant and totally works! I just had to buy a can of that freeze off crap too because what was left after it snapped off was still rusted in really good. So i did exactly what the video says to but i had to empty a can of that crap on it before it would budge. Other than that this was brilliant. Anyone that says differently is a dick.
well you spoke about dissimilar metals causing electrolysis between the metals, but your stud extraction method would not have moved the broken stud, the whole length would have picked up on the thread thus jamming/seizing it, the proper way would have been as gurrtiger did below. I have been a mechanical fitter for 40years, i wish i could just unscrew them as easy as that, [entertaining but not fact]
Good vid, but that bolt came out TOO easy. Why in the world did it break in the first place? I had a bolt break in my motorcycle. I tried an EZ Out. Didn't work. Broke in the bolt. Nightmare began. Ended up breaking it up into pieces and then using a Heli coil.
i understand doing what u have to do but if u would have made an exsaust jid to drill trew u wouldnt have sliped off now i understan u didnt drill it but the jig would have even posably corected the old hole but its done now =\
@coolasice2 if you dill to the proper size of the biggest easy out they usually come out if not a little heat will work if that doest I tig Weld them with a 2% thoraited tungsten. I'm not saying that brain didn't have a good trick. I also have a lot.of experience with easy outs being a millwright in a big steel mill. Always getting broken bolts out of my machinery
hey man thanks ..some times the obvious works.. hope fully I can get to the sheared of by vibration bolt out... on the 91 FXRS Low rider. (fingers crossed)
that's cool. I usually weld a nut to the end of it and fill the nut in with weld. this heats it up and alot give you something to bit onto with a wrench or someing Great Vid I like what you say about the thumbs down. I'll have to add that to my vids. I think people don't like what I say on other vids and give me negative feedback. But I'm like you if you really don't like my vids that's cool I just want to know why. On the other hand Great Vid Thumbs up!!!
Love all of the "Capatain Obvious" co ments about welding a nut or bolt to the broken stud. 99 percent of people with this problem dont have a welder, or know how tonuse them. This is a great alternative.
99 out of 100 broken off bolts are NOT going to come out easily with just a screwdriver!
Then heat it up a little with a blue propane bottle and brass torch tip.
@CoolasIce2 You're right. I staged it. I had to grip the screw drive with both hands and turn at the shoulders to crack it free. You can't do that with a camera in your hand.
There's a method I demonstrate in another video where you weld a nut to the bolt. This heats it as much as a torch would AND gives you a means to grip it to get it out.
@badass98kx250 I've had drill bits break off and easy outs break off inside broken bolts. That's when it's appropriate to cuss.
@spelunkerd That's a great idea. I'm confident if it's sticking out or flush, bu this was pretty recessed. The other nice thing about welding to them is they get torch hot which breaks up the electrolysis.
Have you ever tried welding a nut on top ie filling the hole in the nut with weld them getting a socketon it to extract the stud. Worth a try if yiu ever get stuck
@JohnzCarz That's the same trouble with easy outs. I've had a lot of good luck with slotting.
a method i used and the bolt was seized on a gsxr 1100 exhaust stud that broke was this take a 7mm socket and cut the top to resemble a castle, then cut to 45 degrees, it will resemble a tiny hole saw, its not super hard but were only cutting alloy, put overbroken stud and drill, this will cut alloy from around the bolt, then knock a 5.5 socket onto stud if still tight do not round off! simply cut deeper with 7mm hole cutter then retry, it WILL come out and leave enough thread to re use
@fargobrad If you wire brush it first and then heat it it's likely it will come off or the stud will come out like a bolt.
My exhaust stud has a nut rusted to the stud. If I where to heat the area red with an oxy acetylene torch. What are the chances the nut would pull out the stud since they are rusted together?
Thank you
i have this problem with a boat motor.. however im lucky enough to have a little of the bolt sticking out.. i tried vice grips, tapping it.. putting on a nut ... nothing worked... any suggestion?
some twerp who owned my bike before me sheared a bolt that holds a small bracket infront of the front sprocket, dont want to use a dremel cutter on it too many sensitive parts near. Its a 4 or maybe 5 mm bolt. Sheared off flush. No welder available. Any help?
Great job Some times we have to find a way to get the job done and i know all about broken bolts !!!! Right now i am trying to blow out some exaust boltd with a tourch with out killing the threads and its not looking good because i cant get the tip where i need it.
Great to hear from you! lol It depends on the type of materials. If it's into cast iron I would either build or buy a jig so you can direct a drill bit into it straight. It's not fun or easy, but that's what I'd do. From there you can easy out or just keep drilling bigger and then tap the hole.
@briansmobile1 Hi there, i've got a snapped stud pertruding about 2-3mm out of the head, where should i start? Cheers
My favorite is when you use an impact driver to remove a screw and the tip on the driver snaps off flush with the screw. The hardened bits are tough to drill out, it makes a bad situation even worse. Last time it happened on a Phillips screw head, did the same thing you did - grabbed the Dremel and cut a straight slot in it, then used a ‘better’ quality impact driver and it came out.
Vibration and stress. Over time steel fatigues till it snaps. It's not near as bad as aluminum, but same principle.
Mr.briansmobile1 i have a slipping bolt on cam head cover how to fix the slipping bolt ? its rotating to a certain point it feels tight but after it slips please help...........
I have a slightly bigger issue. Stud has snapped of clean, but its also seized into the hole. So a slice with the dremmel and then a perfect fit screwdriver didn't work. Any idea's? I haven't tried drilling it yet, didn't want to risk any slip ups before I could try all other alternatives.
plug weld a nut to the bolt guys . mig is great for that or TIG if there is sensitive gear around it . still works if the bolt is broken lower than the surface when you have Ali or cast iron surrounds as the steel weld metal wont stick to the outer thread
the bolt will shrink once it cools down and the expansion / contracting cycle breaks the corrosion or rust bonding . best method i ever found . wish i had $1 for every guy i taught that to.
TIG is a great process for this because the control you have.
I've got a couple of stripped out stud holes on my 75' cb550. I'm wondering if I can just drill it and re-thread to 7mm instead of using a heli-coil? I think they're 6 and it would make sense to go to 7 or 8 even. How wide a mm can i go before screwing myself?
Thanks Andrew. I wish you all the best as well.
The manifold stud on the lead cylinder part that faces the front that gets all the weather broke. MIG welding and not onto it broke every time. No room to get a drill bit to drill it to healy coil it. Just if I had like a quarter of an inch more. I'm going to try loosening the front rotor mount and see if I can jack the engine up just enough to get the drill by the frame and try that. It was just one of those little Canadian Tire 110 MIG welders. Flux core I'm wondering if it just wasn't getting hot enough and deep enough penetration on the stud should I weld one nut to it or should I weld too when on top of each other. New to the channel I subscribe thanks
Hi have one stuck in my bike, it was a stainless steel bolt which snapped. There is enough room do drill it straight with a reverse bit, is there any brand that you could recommend I don't want to have to keep buying more or risk it snapping off etc.
I got a '95 Yammi Warrior (ATV) with a stuck exhaust stud OUTSIDE the hole. I could probably slot it pretty easy without getting into the head. But I've tried everything I could think of besides this and welding a nut on. I don't have a welder is why I haven't tried welding a bolt on. Could this work? I haven't tried because I was able to get vice grips on and it still wouldn't budge.
Hi Brian, I've got myself in a pickle with a bolt that snapped off inside my turbos turbine housing. I drilled a hole in it and tried to use a screw extractor but it just won't budge. I gave it loads of heat and WD40 but it won't budge. I then put a big drill bit down the hole hoping that would free any pressure on the threads so I could work the rest out but no, it's like it's just become part of the housing and if I go any bigger with drill bits im going to chew up the thread. Any suggestions?
Nice idea but how come the stud was so easy to unscrew..... What if its bonded to the cylinder, whats the best way 2 make it loose like urs was??
Good video. I think you did a good job on the demonstration and block of instruction. You explained everything in detail to include the mutilation of the screwdriver
Glad it was helpful!
According to the manufacturer, you could use aluminum brazing rod HTS-2000 to fill in that slot and possibly galled threads by installing a stud, heating, then applying the rod. Maybe even repair that bit of fin. I plan to try it soon with a stripped shroud mount on a VW engine.
You did a good job on that broken stud. With a slot like that you can also use a hand impact if theyre galled or cross threaded.
@stewheart You are welcome.
I tried this today and when I put my screwdriver in it just broke more of the thread.
Well done Brian. What did you replace it with ? Is there something better than another steel bolt that will rust and be a problem in the future ?
+David Falaguerra I used a chromed stud to hold it in. I don't see it being a problem going forward. This bike is garaged now and adult owned.
+David Falaguerra I used a chromed stud to hold it in. I don't see it being a problem going forward. This bike is garaged now and adult owned.
Good tip, Brian. You owned that bolt like a boss.
we're in same problem, my bike was broken stud but it was deep situation, pls. advice, is it right to remove the engine to put in machine shop or just do it by my self using electric drill to remove the stud?
Would have done the same thing just wondering I thought electrolicis was the movement of electron through water
my local shop didnt see the bike and said that it can range anywhere from 25-900???? is this correct? its in the same location
Been there. Done that. Thankfully it wasnt completely seized in there. Thats what im dealing with restoring an 85 YTM225DRN.
Guy left it out in a pasture for years and nearly every bolt on the lower half has done this to me. It will be getting LOTS of antiseize upon reassembly.
Alright so on my dirtbike, the exact same bolt broke. But how do i replace it? What do i replace it with? I just replaced the exhaust the i was tightening it and it just snapped.
this was brilliant man it helped alot mine was broken off by the previous owner in his attempt to put a race exhaust on a 95 wolverine luckily it was a good 1" 1/2 of bolt exposed
in the head in my dirtbike there is welded studs thet the head goes on and then you put nuts on top of the head, i snapped the stud by accadent/ anything i can do appart from buying a new cylender
One Bolt broke, the other is on but the bracket came off, the pipe is still in there. I have no clue how to replace it if I even have to
How did the bolt break but then the stud unscrewed so easily?!
A nut welded on would be best if you have the means.
Not ghetto at all!!!! I've had a guy try to drill out a broken bolt and drill all the way thru to a water jacket. Always good th leave it to us pro's. Nice fix. Good on ya for savin the bike.
@mrfixitlondon I have. I LOVE that method! This one was too deep/drilled up/and hard to get to, to do that.
@badass98kx250 Charm??? Many an EZ Out have broken in the bolt. I have 1st hand knowledge of that.
@gurrtiger There's the controversy I was talking about. Refer to 1:23 where I talk about how the owner butchered the opportunity to do what you just said. ( the right way)
This happened to me recently by it broke off there was a little bit left sticking out and I used vice gripes all it did was flatten and ruin it so either your idea or I use an EZ out kit
depends how far down the hole it is, but i have extended my electrode and removed bolts that are 1/4" down the hole using that method aswell. You could also try a left handed drill, but if its really stuck, that won't work, next thing is extractors, but I rarely have luck with them :)
Are you a sorcerer? If not your only options left are to reverse drill or drill and easy out. (deceptive name!)
i wont use spiral ez outs they expand the metal i use the square ones haven't broke one yet or failed to get one out happy tooling around
Great video. So many of these problems we run into wouldn't exist if the last guy that wrenched on it had assembled the parts with anti-seize, proper torque, chasing threads, etc. you know. Everybody just wants to force stuff to fit and then put a breaker bar on it.
alrith i cut a slot and its absalutely perfect but it still wont come out any ideas
had to dismantle exhaust and reinstal but on reassembling my bolt snapped hard inside. drilled middle and used easy out..got half the bolt out but it snapped again so some still deep inside,drilled again and reused easy out and BOOM snapped deep also.OK so question would be do i drill that mofo out and re thread for larger bolt when its done or buy new cylinder head which would set me back say 80 quid/uk..any suggestions welcome & had to buy new easy out for the lender.i fucked it big time lol
Ive got a leaking exhaust on my CB600, ive looked at the head, and one of the bolts is so rusted theirs no nut on it and the bolt is pointed (dam those gritter lorrys lol)
I have some easy outs, but think the bolt is so far gone they wont work, think its going to be drilling the bolt out, but yea, against an aluminium head....
Not gonna lie, ive being dreading this job for years, but think this year it will fail the MOT its that bad so im gonna have to have ago at it
The weld a nut wouldn’t work for me and my flux core welder. Anyone have a better experience? I might try this method very soon.
what about when its broken off further down in the hole?
@flukesalot Sure beats scrapping the head huh?
Hey Hughie,I have/ride a '57 Harley Hardtail w/ a '93 EVO Drivetrain.On mine the right side exhaust stud broke-off due to prior rust that I was unaware of.I have been trying to learn how to get her out and B rians solution is by for the best I've heard.
If the only "true" damage was a broken {small } fin ,than "KUDOS" to you brian,is something I doubt your Mr.Hely would even notice,unless you told him. To me this is a great idea,I've been building 'em and ridin' 'em for over 50 years and sometimes you gotta do what you have too !! partner
+partnerbfe talkin' bout the right side - rear exhaust - bolt-EVOs have two(2) per cylinder
I can't find that thing that goes on the pie to hold the flange
@ballkeeper1 Sure- will do.
Awesome fix it's nice to meet another person who can macgyver things
@brainsmobile I drill them then use a spiral easy out works like a charm
good one true. hex I hope u got your head bolts out. I got my brothers xterra with one snapped exhaust stud that's y im here. im lucky, I have a now round 14mm nut and had enough meat to get a new bolt half threaded on. I JB-welded the new nut to the old stripped one where they pair up and also some in the hole, it was oozing so I put an old socket on the new bolt so the extra spooj from the jb didn't prevent me from getting a socket on later. w8ing for it to setup. wish me luck!
Put bolt extractor on socket extension and used the impact. Came right out!
Ive broke a bolt extractor in the broken exhaust stud on my rc51 and im stuck. Tried drolilling out the extractor but all drill bit are goin to crap. Now what?
when you've exhausted all the other options; you need to remove the cylinder head to gain proper access; when you can see it, and get at it properly the situation becomes a whole lot easier; welding a nut on the top of the thread is so much better in the downhand welding position' you can put enough heat in to free the thread; or you can also enlist the services of a machining workshop who can hold the offending item accuratley in a milling machine so as to be able to drill the bolt out; I did have a local garage who assured me that they've hundreds of such repairs, write off a cylinder head for my gs 450; i then took it to a proper machine shop who repaired it no problems whatsoever; it cost me £35 for the final repair;
methinks the moral of this story is to do it right; get it done correctly first time. i always refit stainless steel studs with copious amounts of copper slip and to date have had no unwanted further problems
I'm going to do the same with mine and get/make bronze nuts instead of using steel nuts
nicely done and no down raters which is even better!
JB weld will melt if you try to use it on a cylinder head, specially near the exhaust.
ive got this problem on a moped might try this if drilling doesnt work
lol Thanks for the effort. It happens to the best of us.
I enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work. Often you have to be creative and even crafty to solve engineering problems.
Let me add I watched your vid on motorbike carbs and it helped me a great deal. Mine are now clean and running well !!
I find it best to either mig or tig weld a nut or bolt on to broken bolts and just screw them out, but great trick when one does not have a welder :)
OK. how about a stripped stud? I stripped one on a Harley and don't want to tear the engine down just to get it out.
Thank you for this "G". Now, where's that drill-mounted circular saw of mine? I'll check in the kitchen cupboard!
i hate when exhaust studs break off in a head. never done one on a bike. but chevy 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 are notorious for having the rear bolts on the manifolds break off, so then you have to remove the manifolds and try to drill them out of the head with the heads still on and no room against the firewall, or remove the heads and try. breaking the extractor in the stud sucks, and the machine shop always gives us crap when we send them with broken extractors.
Do this. This had EXACTLY the same thing happen with an "easy out" broken off in it.
can you come fix mine?
@briansmobile1 yup it sure does, but all the ones i have tryed was molded in and not threaded ,so welding a bolt to a female as head has being a fried for years,but if this work ,its just cool.
I have a 74' Honda XL100 and it did this to me. Thanks for the idea! It'll probably work.
You're welcome!
im soooooooooo darn happy i just watched this. you have no idea. thanks again
are you from mariposa?
no im not. im from miami,fl.
Good job, Brian. I like the welding-a-nut idea, as well.
There's another way, if you can do TIG welding with low amperage DCEN TIG, on a steel bolt with aluminum casing. Go to the youtube channel weldingtipsandtricks, find the last video where he talks about a slide hammer puller. It's amazing how he can weld the end of a broken bolt, deep in a hole without melting the casing.
thats a honda rebel250.. for some reasone they break off those pipe bolts often.
Yep. It's too small a stud for that much weight.
@2LateIWon Oops just saw someone else asked you the same thing.
Another trick is to weld a washer to the broken bolt, then weld a nut to the washer and turn it out with a socket or whatever fits. Good job though.
that bolt would have to be frozen in the threads to be twisted off that looks too easy. how about doing a busted frozen bolt in a alum head still on the machine?
you know I do most of the work myself on my bike and ppl that post negatively on videos like this are assholes. I was changing out my exhaust for the second time and the bolt snapped clean off. Not gonna lie I freaked out and had NO IDEA what the hell I was gonna do.The only thing I did differently after watching this had nothing to do with technique. Honestly this is brilliant and totally works! I just had to buy a can of that freeze off crap too because what was left after it snapped off was still rusted in really good. So i did exactly what the video says to but i had to empty a can of that crap on it before it would budge. Other than that this was brilliant. Anyone that says differently is a dick.
@ProjectCarTV Ouch!
well you spoke about dissimilar metals causing electrolysis between the metals, but your stud extraction method would not have moved the broken stud, the whole length would have picked up on the thread thus jamming/seizing it, the proper way would have been as gurrtiger did below. I have been a mechanical fitter for 40years, i wish i could just unscrew them as easy as that, [entertaining but not fact]
i had a broken bolt too on my bigbear350 and will try that too .. thanks bud
dude you just saved me so much time!!!!
Good vid, but that bolt came out TOO easy. Why in the world did it break in the first place? I had a bolt break in my motorcycle. I tried an EZ Out. Didn't work. Broke in the bolt. Nightmare began. Ended up breaking it up into pieces and then using a Heli coil.
@DiscoMoonMonkey You're welcome my friend!
i understand doing what u have to do but if u would have made an exsaust jid to drill trew u wouldnt have sliped off now i understan u didnt drill it but the jig would have even posably corected the old hole but its done now =\
@coolasice2 if you dill to the proper size of the biggest easy out they usually come out if not a little heat will work if that doest I tig Weld them with a 2% thoraited tungsten. I'm not saying that brain didn't have a good trick. I also have a lot.of experience with easy outs being a millwright in a big steel mill. Always getting broken bolts out of my machinery
hey man thanks ..some times the obvious works.. hope fully I can get to the sheared of by vibration bolt out... on the 91 FXRS Low rider. (fingers crossed)
that's cool. I usually weld a nut to the end of it and fill the nut in with weld. this heats it up and alot give you something to bit onto with a wrench or someing
Great Vid I like what you say about the thumbs down. I'll have to add that to my vids. I think people don't like what I say on other vids and give me negative feedback. But I'm like you if you really don't like my vids that's cool I just want to know why.
On the other hand Great Vid Thumbs up!!!