I'm a construction carpenter / builder that has ventured into making my own furniture. Not because it's cost effective, cause it really isn't considering the amount of hours I spend, but because I wanted unique furniture. I love videos like this where I can pick up tips and tricks along the way to add to my reportoire. Great stuff, thanks!
I'm repairing a table that already has splits. This was so helpful. This info will help me to repair it in a way that will avoid future splits. thank you
It's great to have this sort of clear explanatory content on YT, along with some comparative notes on the various options. I like in particular that you covered figure-8 fasteners which I've long been frustrated by since I first became aware of them online a few years ago, because clearly they don't work on the stretchers (worse than useless actually) yet some sources insist on showing them used on all four sides of the apron -_- Since you asked, you left out my favourite style of commercial tabletop connector. They have gone by various names through the years but I think they're now mostly known as stretcher plates. They have slots in both the orientations needed so they work equally well on any side of an apron. And they don't require any milling work to fit, they just screw into the apron side so they're also the fastest to install. They're perhaps not ideal for very thin apron pieces, but those present a challenge for almost any option.
Thanks for the compliments! Glad this was helpful for you. I think I’ve seen what you are talking about, but not till after I posted this! Some Europeans told me about them, apparently they’re a lot more common over there I think?
@@YouCanMakeThisToo Well I'm in Europe so maybe that's why I know them LOL But they're not particularly common over here either from what I can tell. I've practically never seen them used by anyone else on the forums (actually any forums) so presumably few other woodworkers agree that they're the best option. But they're sold on Amazon.co.uk which is some mark of popularity and presumably _someone_ is buying them.
Thanks for the lesson. I’m taking an old drop leaf dining table (8 legs) apart and turning it into a trestle table (4 legs). I’ve been hashing out the details and fastening the top was a big question. I’m making a 3” skirt out of black walnut and for additional strength I’ll make 2 additional stringers down the middle.
I'm working on a 9' x 3.5' dinning room table out of 5/4 pine boards. It's the biggest table I've ever made. coming along pretty good so far. I used alot of your glue up tricks! Thank you Caleb!
Awesome video. I've been looking for information on how to build a table and came across your channel. You have provided a ton of information so hopefully I can start to build a much needed dinning room table. Thank you for taking the time to provide this videos.
Nice review and yes accuracy and precision is necessary with screw inserts, especially if you're using more than one in a row. Murphy taught me that. forgot about the wooden buttons, thanks. The corner brace is my next step on an unconventional build I'm doing. Thanks!
This was a very interresting video my friend. I watched every second of it and learned something new. I would recommend this video to everybody who does some woodwork! Great video man!
I am restoring a nice art deco table I bought two weeks ago on a flea market. It is solid oak and about a hundred years old. Unfortunately, the table top has split badly; the middle board (of five) has torn itself loose on both sides, giving me 2-1-2 separate boards. Besides, the boards have warped considerably (1/2 ') in different directions and it had large stains from water damage. The table top was attached to the aprons with Z-hooks, almost like the ones you are showing, though they are a bit different. The hooks have slots in which the screw is supposed to move. But as these hooks were severely rusted the were stuck to the wood, not allowing for any sliding. Remarkably, on the short side of the table top the slots of the Z-hooks are pointing perpendicular to the grain of the wood, allowing for contraction and expansion in the right direction. Straightening these boards and gluing them back up will be a nuisance, since I do not own professional machines like a planer. I do have a circular saw and a router. I guess I'll have to improvise. I also need long clamps, which I do not have. Your tips may come in handy. I surely will watch your video with great attention a couple of times to pick up as much tips as possible.
Sounds like quite a project! I'd recommend using a straight edge or guide with the circular saw to get the edges pretty straight, and then use a straight edge and the router to bring it home. Good luck with the project!
Good question! Sometimes it's for an attachment point, other times it's to strengthen the corner of the base. The connection between the aprons and legs can be weak and a diagonal brace can make a big difference. Sometimes it's both.
Thanks for the info. I was curious to differentiate between figure 8s and the other fasteners. Now I feel confident in my decision. Very helpful. Thanks again!!!
I’m sorry that happened to your table, but glad this answered your questions. Right before this video I published one on getting dead flat glue ups for table tops. Might be worth a watch for you too. Several steps in there that are key for things staying flat over time.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo I watched that as well, did most of those things, just anchored my glue up to metal flat bar legs with holes in the metal that were same size as screw. Rookie move. Thanks for the reply
Great video. I'm about to make an outdoor dining table for my daughter and was about to make some catastrophic errors! Thank you for setting me straight. :-)
Nice video... I'm hoping to make some breadboard ends of a desk sometime in the next year. Similar to this video, wood movement is an important factor for breadboard ends. Thanks.
Just what I needed to know. About to order some z clamps and wanted to make sure they’d work fine, which it sounds like they would, or “wood” 😜 awesome video!
Great video I learned alot Im going to build a hard wood kitchen table with 2×3" Steel Tubing In an inverted V type legs With 1/4" plate on top of my legs to bolt the table top down ,with twisted steel and scroll work ,Before watching this vid I was going to put 1/4" nut inserts into the bottom of the table top and slot my steel mount plates for any contracting or expansion of the wood Im going to do a video of my finished product ,The steel work is cake for me , But im a little apprehensive about the woodwork
Thank you sir! That’s always great to hear. They have a place. I use them a lot. Almost all my shop furniture was built with pocket holes. Several pieces of furniture in my house too.
I’ve been woodworking for about 2 1/2 years now and loving it. If it wasn’t for you and other UA-cam Woodworking Content makers I would lost. I live in the mountains and the closest schooling is about 7 hrs away that I could find. So once again thank and I Greatly Appreciate it.
@@ArmyVet76 Thanks for sharing, it's always great to hear that! That's why I keep putting this info out there. Great to know it's helping folks like yourself.
Awesome. What about using threaded inserts along with buttons? I need them for some level of break down ability for the piece I’m currently working on.
I have a 7x3 walnut table top and want to add it to a farm style pedestal base with runners. It has no apron, so do I have to worry about movement as much and can I just screw it into the runners on the base? Thank you for your help
I do that a lot. I order pre-made tabs that I weld to the base to screw through. The holes are oversized and I use a washer, that lets the screw slip around in thr hole.
YouCanMakeThisToo quick question is there somewhere in Memphis that I can get other kinds of lumber? I get the bulk of my stuff from thrifty building supply in collierville but it’s mostly poplar and spruce. I want more species and even live edge slabs if possible
Wow, great content, thank you. Do you happen to have any recommendations on books to understand wood movement more? Thanks again, definitely will recommend this video to my classmates
Any advice if my table top is not anywhere near flush with the base currently I am unable to use any of the fasteners because it is not flush any other hacks of attaching it?
They are small right angle plates with a round screw hole on each plate and an elongated screw slot to allow for movement on each plate. Makes fitting a table top simple and they are very cheap.
Muchísimas gracias por todas las explicaciones, soy carpintero desde hace un par de años, pero en éste aspecto no tengo experiencia. Necesito hacerte una consulta. Me encargaron una mesa ratonera (coffee table) que quede con un aspecto rústico y campestre (pero no demasiado), y el cliente quiere las tablas (2"x6") que formarán la parte superior, que No estén encoladas, tan solo arrimadas lo mejor posible. Yo tenía pensado construir, para amarrar cada tabla, algo igual a lo que mostras en el minuto 6:54 (button), no sabia que ya estaba inventado. La pregunta es, ¿Me podría encontrar con algún problema? Nota: la zona es húmeda, y la madera a utilizar será pino. Saludos desde Argentina.
I'm putting a table top on some ikea cabinets that have their own top(alex drawers) they want you just to screw through the cabinets.....I don't think that's the best idea.... any suggestions...I'm also in the memphis -tupelo area so climate is the same
I am making a herringbone pattern dining room table in 7/8 in figured maple for my daughter. Metal legs, no apron. She would like a cherry edge 1.5 in around the top. Is there a way to deal with expansion?
Use a plywood substrate and slice your maple thin to be a veneer on the top instead of solid. Otherwise it’s going to be a nightmare. Can’t wrap trim around solid wood.
Hey man great vid. I'm planning on making a walnut tabletop myself but want to put a mitred frame around the outside of my laminated wood pieces so I can incorporate inlay with the direction of the grain and am worried about expantion breaking the mitre frame joints which inturn would break the inlay. I do not want to put a groove in between either because it would ruin the look of the design. Is this doable? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
It's not with solid wood.. that's a common beginner mistake. The only way to get that look would be a veneer panel in the center instead of solid wood.
I go all over the place. There’s a place near the Kentucky border called butler Adams. In town we have The Woodwork Shop in Bartlett. It had a good selection of exotics.
VERY informative. I assume that the shape of the table doesn't really matter (square v rectangular) i would just need to put the fasteners on the end grain side so it can slide with the wood, correct?
Yes and no. Shape doesn't matter, what matters is orientation of the fasters to the grain. If it's on the end grain.. they need side to side movement. If it's along the grain, they need to move in and out. Can put them either way, I normally do both. Just wanna make sure it can wiggle the right way.
Great information! I am building a tv table which has 6 solid boards glued together for the top, but im also using this for my sides too... the grain is running upwards on the side, and down the table top length, so do I need to worry about the top and sides expanding at a different rate since the grain is running in the same direction on sides and top? Do you think I could just biscuit the sides to the top and not use a table top fastener? This is pretty much the table im building, but mine has 2" solid facing on the front www.wayfair.ca/furniture/pdp/george-oliver-glenn-tv-stand-for-tvs-up-to-60-inches-wlk1905.html
Since your grain is all going the same way, it'll expand and contract at close enough to the same rate that it won't be a problem. Where you'll run into problems is when you have pieces that meet expand in different directions. Sometimes it's helpful to think of the expansion in terms of the three dimensions of your piece. Will the piece expand the height, depth, or width? The way you describe the sides, top, and bottom.. all three will expand the depth - since they're moving together, no issues. And any shelves can be oriented to have the grain running to expand the depth as well. However, the back panel and drawer fronts/doors can't expand that way.. they'll either do height or width. So they need to be something stable like plywood, or have the movement accounted for in some way if they're big enough that it'll be an issue. You can search online for charts that'll estimate how much wood will move based on it's total width and species.
Hello from England! We have things called stretcher plates, which have slotted holes running in two directions. These work great for allowing expansion (provided you use the right slot!) www.screwfix.com/p/stretcher-plates-zinc-plated-38-x-28-x-25mm-10-pack/12920#product_additional_details_container (Link provided as I couldn't attach a picture)
@@YouCanMakeThisToo good content, btw. i am attaching a tabletob made from an elm slab to legs made from another slab with no skirt and wondering the best route to proceed. Live edge slab edge to edge at 90 degrees
This sort of explanatory content is what makes youtube an actual learning resource. Join me in supporting this dude on Patreon!
You make me blush ☺️
I'm a construction carpenter / builder that has ventured into making my own furniture. Not because it's cost effective, cause it really isn't considering the amount of hours I spend, but because I wanted unique furniture. I love videos like this where I can pick up tips and tricks along the way to add to my reportoire. Great stuff, thanks!
One of the best info videos I’ve seen on wood movement fasteners! Thank you!
Best explanation I've ever heard on table tops and wood movement. Thanks!
Thanks!
I'm repairing a table that already has splits. This was so helpful. This info will help me to repair it in a way that will avoid future splits. thank you
Great to hear!
I learned a great deal, especially as I am thinking about making a coffee table and end tables for my son. Thank you.
That's great! Very glad you took away a lot, thanks for watching and commenting!
It's great to have this sort of clear explanatory content on YT, along with some comparative notes on the various options. I like in particular that you covered figure-8 fasteners which I've long been frustrated by since I first became aware of them online a few years ago, because clearly they don't work on the stretchers (worse than useless actually) yet some sources insist on showing them used on all four sides of the apron -_-
Since you asked, you left out my favourite style of commercial tabletop connector. They have gone by various names through the years but I think they're now mostly known as stretcher plates. They have slots in both the orientations needed so they work equally well on any side of an apron. And they don't require any milling work to fit, they just screw into the apron side so they're also the fastest to install. They're perhaps not ideal for very thin apron pieces, but those present a challenge for almost any option.
Thanks for the compliments! Glad this was helpful for you.
I think I’ve seen what you are talking about, but not till after I posted this! Some Europeans told me about them, apparently they’re a lot more common over there I think?
@@YouCanMakeThisToo Well I'm in Europe so maybe that's why I know them LOL But they're not particularly common over here either from what I can tell. I've practically never seen them used by anyone else on the forums (actually any forums) so presumably few other woodworkers agree that they're the best option. But they're sold on Amazon.co.uk which is some mark of popularity and presumably _someone_ is buying them.
Thanks for the lesson. I’m taking an old drop leaf dining table (8 legs) apart and turning it into a trestle table (4 legs). I’ve been hashing out the details and fastening the top was a big question. I’m making a 3” skirt out of black walnut and for additional strength I’ll make 2 additional stringers down the middle.
Great plan!
I'm working on a 9' x 3.5' dinning room table out of 5/4 pine boards. It's the biggest table I've ever made. coming along pretty good so far. I used alot of your glue up tricks! Thank you Caleb!
That’s great! Glad the tricks helped you, that table will be great!
Excellent explanation. Thank you
Thanks!
Nice instructional video, Caleb. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for watching, sir!
Great video. Clear and concise with superb description of various methods and hardware. Also pros and cons of each.
Thank you! Exactly what I tried to give.
Awesome video. I've been looking for information on how to build a table and came across your channel. You have provided a ton of information so hopefully I can start to build a much needed dinning room table. Thank you for taking the time to provide this videos.
Thanks, glad it was helpful for you, good luck on your build!
Nice review and yes accuracy and precision is necessary with screw inserts, especially if you're using more than one in a row. Murphy taught me that. forgot about the wooden buttons, thanks. The corner brace is my next step on an unconventional build I'm doing. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
This was very helpful! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
This was a very interresting video my friend. I watched every second of it and learned something new. I would recommend this video to everybody who does some woodwork! Great video man!
Thank you! I love to hear that, we all learn by sharing. Hopefully spare folks some of the mistakes I've made!
I am restoring a nice art deco table I bought two weeks ago on a flea market. It is solid oak and about a hundred years old. Unfortunately, the table top has split badly; the middle board (of five) has torn itself loose on both sides, giving me 2-1-2 separate boards. Besides, the boards have warped considerably (1/2 ') in different directions and it had large stains from water damage. The table top was attached to the aprons with Z-hooks, almost like the ones you are showing, though they are a bit different. The hooks have slots in which the screw is supposed to move. But as these hooks were severely rusted the were stuck to the wood, not allowing for any sliding. Remarkably, on the short side of the table top the slots of the Z-hooks are pointing perpendicular to the grain of the wood, allowing for contraction and expansion in the right direction. Straightening these boards and gluing them back up will be a nuisance, since I do not own professional machines like a planer. I do have a circular saw and a router. I guess I'll have to improvise. I also need long clamps, which I do not have. Your tips may come in handy. I surely will watch your video with great attention a couple of times to pick up as much tips as possible.
Sounds like quite a project! I'd recommend using a straight edge or guide with the circular saw to get the edges pretty straight, and then use a straight edge and the router to bring it home. Good luck with the project!
@@YouCanMakeThisToo That was also my intention. Thank you for the reply.
Stumpy Nubs has a great video explaining the figure-8 and how to install them for all directions.
Thanks for the info!
I thank you also for explaining the difference between the fasteners. I was about to order the figure 8's. Glad I didn't. Thank you very much!
Glad to help
Always wondered why tables had extra board in the corner. Thanks for the great information!
Good question! Sometimes it's for an attachment point, other times it's to strengthen the corner of the base. The connection between the aprons and legs can be weak and a diagonal brace can make a big difference. Sometimes it's both.
Thanks for the info. I was curious to differentiate between figure 8s and the other fasteners. Now I feel confident in my decision. Very helpful. Thanks again!!!
Awesome! Glad I could help!
Currently building a Cal King headboard, footboard, and frame out of red oak. It's a beast.
Been searching for this info for a long time after watching my first table bow over the course of a year...... it all makes sense now. Thank you
I’m sorry that happened to your table, but glad this answered your questions. Right before this video I published one on getting dead flat glue ups for table tops. Might be worth a watch for you too. Several steps in there that are key for things staying flat over time.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo I watched that as well, did most of those things, just anchored my glue up to metal flat bar legs with holes in the metal that were same size as screw. Rookie move. Thanks for the reply
@@randywinzeler1114 Good deal, and no worries man. You only make that kind of mistake once. It's part of teaching yourself a craft.
I making my first table and this video was very informative. I didn’t know much about wood movement, so this probably saved my piece!Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video in content and production. Thanks so much for making this!
Much appreciated!
Working on a black walnut table s clips look like the best option. Thanks allot
I like them
Highly educational video. Thanks. I was looking for this. Going with the z clip for my dining table
Thanks, glad it was helpful. They’re my preference too.
Great video. I'm about to make an outdoor dining table for my daughter and was about to make some catastrophic errors! Thank you for setting me straight. :-)
Glad it helped, happy building!
that was very helpful
thanks
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice video... I'm hoping to make some breadboard ends of a desk sometime in the next year. Similar to this video, wood movement is an important factor for breadboard ends. Thanks.
That’s awesome! Very important for breadboard ends. But once you know how wood wants to move, it’s easy to plan for it.
Great information saludos from Mexico
Thanks for watching!
Great video man, Just what I was looking for. Greetings from Perú
Glad it helped!
Another great video!
Thank you!
Good info. I used plywood for my buttons and didn’t have to worry about grain orientation
Ah, good idea.
Just what I needed to know. About to order some z clamps and wanted to make sure they’d work fine, which it sounds like they would, or “wood” 😜 awesome video!
Haha, yes they wood! Thanks!
30k views and only 700 likes. Come on people!! Don't be lazy!! Hit that like button!!! You know he deserves it!
:)
Wow thank you!🙏🏻😘
You are so welcome
You’re great, love the videos
Glad you like them!
Great video I learned alot Im going to build a hard wood kitchen table with 2×3" Steel Tubing In an inverted V type legs With 1/4" plate on top of my legs to bolt the table top down ,with twisted steel and scroll work ,Before watching this vid I was going to put 1/4" nut inserts into the bottom of the table top and slot my steel mount plates for any contracting or expansion of the wood Im going to do a video of my finished product ,The steel work is cake for me , But im a little apprehensive about the woodwork
I look forward to seeing that when it’s done. Sounds amazing! You’re definitely on track with how to attach the table top. That’ll work great.
Great tutorial..thank you
Thanks for watching!
Great video and you are really good at explaining these steps and projects!! 👍🏼
Thank you very much! Hope they’ve been helpful for uou
Learned a few things from this video. Thank you so much 👍🏼
What do you think of pocket holes?
Thank you sir! That’s always great to hear.
They have a place. I use them a lot. Almost all my shop furniture was built with pocket holes. Several pieces of furniture in my house too.
I’ve been woodworking for about 2 1/2 years now and loving it. If it wasn’t for you and other UA-cam Woodworking Content makers I would lost. I live in the mountains and the closest schooling is about 7 hrs away that I could find. So once again thank and I Greatly Appreciate it.
@@ArmyVet76 Thanks for sharing, it's always great to hear that! That's why I keep putting this info out there. Great to know it's helping folks like yourself.
Great video, always nice to hear other ways of doing things.
Thanks for watching!
excellent info!!
Thank you!
Great technics
Some great tips!
Thank you!
thank you great info . so z clips sound like the way to go
That's the way I tend to go.
Awesome. What about using threaded inserts along with buttons? I need them for some level of break down ability for the piece I’m currently working on.
Absolutely. Anywhere you use a screw you could use inserts and bolts.
Do you have a video where you show how to make the elongated holes within a project that you mentioned at the end?
Just wiggle your drill bit or drill two holes close to each and chisel the waste.
Helpful
I have a 7x3 walnut table top and want to add it to a farm style pedestal base with runners. It has no apron, so do I have to worry about movement as much and can I just screw it into the runners on the base? Thank you for your help
Should be fine. Just oversize the screw holes and use a washer
question: "09:19
Well, if you've used reinforcing blocks in your corner,...." how is the corner piece fatened to the aprons?
Normally with screws
Does a small birch plywood tabletop have movement as well?
As an engineered product plywood doesn’t move. That’s why most commercial furniture is particle board or plywood.
Great video Brother
Thank you!
so what if you want to use a metal frame with a solid wood top? is a no go?
I do that a lot. I order pre-made tabs that I weld to the base to screw through. The holes are oversized and I use a washer, that lets the screw slip around in thr hole.
Great video! This may sound strange, but you look great bald! That's a great look!
Also, thank you for the information, it helped me out a lot.
Haha, thanks so much!
Nice
I’m in memphis too!
Cool!
YouCanMakeThisToo quick question is there somewhere in Memphis that I can get other kinds of lumber? I get the bulk of my stuff from thrifty building supply in collierville but it’s mostly poplar and spruce. I want more species and even live edge slabs if possible
Which one is better
Wow, great content, thank you. Do you happen to have any recommendations on books to understand wood movement more? Thanks again, definitely will recommend this video to my classmates
Understanding Wood by Hoadley published by Taunton
@@YouCanMakeThisToo awesome thank you!
Any advice if my table top is not anywhere near flush with the base currently I am unable to use any of the fasteners because it is not flush any other hacks of attaching it?
Either have to find a way to flatten the top, or scribe the base to match the top
How would you attach a round wooden leg and round at the bottom to a table top
Threaded stud in the wood leg and a mounting plate on the table
Excellent but did you miss out stretcher plates?
I’m not familiar with those
They are small right angle plates with a round screw hole on each plate and an elongated screw slot to allow for movement on each plate. Makes fitting a table top simple and they are very cheap.
Ah interesting! Are you in America? I haven’t seen those. They sound great.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo English to the bone
@@YouCanMakeThisToo give me your address and I will send you some
Muchísimas gracias por todas las explicaciones, soy carpintero desde hace un par de años, pero en éste aspecto no tengo experiencia. Necesito hacerte una consulta. Me encargaron una mesa ratonera (coffee table) que quede con un aspecto rústico y campestre (pero no demasiado), y el cliente quiere las tablas (2"x6") que formarán la parte superior, que No estén encoladas, tan solo arrimadas lo mejor posible. Yo tenía pensado construir, para amarrar cada tabla, algo igual a lo que mostras en el minuto 6:54 (button), no sabia que ya estaba inventado. La pregunta es, ¿Me podría encontrar con algún problema?
Nota: la zona es húmeda, y la madera a utilizar será pino.
Saludos desde Argentina.
I'm putting a table top on some ikea cabinets that have their own top(alex drawers) they want you just to screw through the cabinets.....I don't think that's the best idea.... any suggestions...I'm also in the memphis -tupelo area so climate is the same
How is southern yellow pine with expansion?... I'm having trouble finding 2x10,2x12s in anything else
Just pre-drill a pilot hole that’s a little larger than the screw. But sure to use a washer, or cabinet screw with a wide head.
Biggest problem with construction lumber is it isn’t dried well and tends to deform more than you’d want furniture to move.
I am making a herringbone pattern dining room table in 7/8 in figured maple for my daughter. Metal legs, no apron. She would like a cherry edge 1.5 in around the top. Is there a way to deal with expansion?
Use a plywood substrate and slice your maple thin to be a veneer on the top instead of solid. Otherwise it’s going to be a nightmare. Can’t wrap trim around solid wood.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo making a veneer is beyond my ability. So the herringbone by itself would be ok, right?
What if I dont fix the table top at all? What if I just keep it on two ikea drawers or something?
Then it'll just sit there until pushed 🤷🏻♂️
...then you can push it back to where you like.
Will it form gaps in future?
Thank you for the great video! Amazing demonstration!
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
Hey man great vid. I'm planning on making a walnut tabletop myself but want to put a mitred frame around the outside of my laminated wood pieces so I can incorporate inlay with the direction of the grain and am worried about expantion breaking the mitre frame joints which inturn would break the inlay. I do not want to put a groove in between either because it would ruin the look of the design. Is this doable? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
It's not with solid wood.. that's a common beginner mistake. The only way to get that look would be a veneer panel in the center instead of solid wood.
Where do you get your specialty wood selection from? I am some two hours south of Memphis, TN and am having trouble finding a good wood source.
I go all over the place. There’s a place near the Kentucky border called butler Adams. In town we have The Woodwork Shop in Bartlett. It had a good selection of exotics.
could really use a index in the comments and an outline of the six techniques.
VERY informative. I assume that the shape of the table doesn't really matter (square v rectangular) i would just need to put the fasteners on the end grain side so it can slide with the wood, correct?
Yes and no. Shape doesn't matter, what matters is orientation of the fasters to the grain. If it's on the end grain.. they need side to side movement. If it's along the grain, they need to move in and out. Can put them either way, I normally do both. Just wanna make sure it can wiggle the right way.
Great information! I am building a tv table which has 6 solid boards glued together for the top, but im also using this for my sides too... the grain is running upwards on the side, and down the table top length, so do I need to worry about the top and sides expanding at a different rate since the grain is running in the same direction on sides and top? Do you think I could just biscuit the sides to the top and not use a table top fastener? This is pretty much the table im building, but mine has 2" solid facing on the front
www.wayfair.ca/furniture/pdp/george-oliver-glenn-tv-stand-for-tvs-up-to-60-inches-wlk1905.html
Since your grain is all going the same way, it'll expand and contract at close enough to the same rate that it won't be a problem. Where you'll run into problems is when you have pieces that meet expand in different directions. Sometimes it's helpful to think of the expansion in terms of the three dimensions of your piece. Will the piece expand the height, depth, or width? The way you describe the sides, top, and bottom.. all three will expand the depth - since they're moving together, no issues. And any shelves can be oriented to have the grain running to expand the depth as well. However, the back panel and drawer fronts/doors can't expand that way.. they'll either do height or width. So they need to be something stable like plywood, or have the movement accounted for in some way if they're big enough that it'll be an issue. You can search online for charts that'll estimate how much wood will move based on it's total width and species.
Hello from England! We have things called stretcher plates, which have slotted holes running in two directions. These work great for allowing expansion (provided you use the right slot!)
www.screwfix.com/p/stretcher-plates-zinc-plated-38-x-28-x-25mm-10-pack/12920#product_additional_details_container
(Link provided as I couldn't attach a picture)
Those are brilliant! Wish we had an equivalent product that was common here.
His link for the Z-clips is $8.99 (from Rockler), but Rockler sells the same thing for $2.99. Highway robbery.
I need to update that now my affiliate stuff with Rockler is sorted out. And they pick their prices on amazon, not me.
Where is the method to avoid splitting?
If you attach the table top so it can move like it wants, it’s not bound and won’t split when it shrinks in winter but is locked to the base
Excellent job breaking it down and presenting how we can make this too...see what I did there?? :)
Thanks! Haha yes I did, and I like it.
Epoxy is impermeable
Yes it is
@@YouCanMakeThisToo would you say that wood does not move when encapsulated in epoxy?
@@YouCanMakeThisToo good content, btw. i am attaching a tabletob made from an elm slab to legs made from another slab with no skirt and wondering the best route to proceed. Live edge slab edge to edge at 90 degrees
I did that in this video ua-cam.com/video/l0K9ZyTqDCU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/l0K9ZyTqDCU/v-deo.html and look what i found... Awesome! Im a subscriber now Thanks, brother!