I kept barking for reasons unbeknownst to me until I read your comment. So I thank you, my GF thanks you and my neighbors agreed not to call animal services. 🤦🏼♂️😂🤷🏼♂️
A heat sink AND a fan did not solve this problem as ambient temperature here in Florida are enough to trigger this condition. The DSP is simply heat sensitive. The chip was removed and every single pin hand soldered to the board by an amazing technician under a microscope. I'm trying to help people here and with 37 years of engineering experience I cannot imagine why people would leave rude comments. After replacing the chip we are back to using this amp on stage. No thanks to the people at Line 6 who said any repair shop can perform this replacement. I know of none that can.
+Dave Muri That arrogant attitude by line 6 towards their customers who suffer these problems with their shitty equipment components is what will kill their business eventually. Word of mouth is very powerful and if they piss off enough people it will come back to bite them.
WOW. I'm surprised a heat sink didn't work, because mine is all apart because i blew the power amp, and ordered the new board to go on heat sink. (Spider IV - 150watt combo) Im going to try the heat sink, and install a little computer fan in there too, ill let you know how it worked out.
I know it's an older video,but it gives me something to consider. I have a Flextone 2. Everything works except the main volume,it seems to be stuck very low,like 1or 2. Any advice is welcome.
I'll say this one more time. this DSP has to be cooled BELOW ambient temperature to work. There is absolutely no way, even with a CPU cooler fan that you can cool the DSP below ambient temperature. Maybe other people have DSPs that cut out at higher temperatures but this one cuts out at room temperature. The alcohol I used does cool the DSP below the ambient temperature. Clearly many of the responders do not understand this.
i have a line 6 spider II 150wrms that sometimes change the sound without any change on chanel or knob positions. first i'm think the problem is in the speakers...but the problem still apearing even working with phones.( my english is rusty. sorry) can you give me some help?
OK, so maybe I’m too simple to understand this why wouldn’t a heat sink work when it’s intermittently happening at room temperature and a small amount of alcohol will cool down? I’m ask this because my Spider V 120 behaves erratic and has volume issues etc after I’ve been playing for a while. Depending on the room temp, it could be after as little as 10 minutes. Another YT video suggested an overheated processor and showed a way to fix it using a fan. I’m in no way mechanically blessed to even watch till the end. I found both results interesting considering the complete opposite viewpoints on a nearly identical issue. Also, I’m aware of the time that passed since your comment. So if you’re not still on YT or whatever then disregard this. Oh, wait............ if you aren’t......😂 🤷🏼♂️ I warned that I my not be the shapest knife at a gunfight. B
My DSP chip didn't understand it either, glueing a heat spreader/sink with heatsink glue (to avoid having to figure how to tie a squirrilly heat sink down) sorted it and has given no trouble since. Any modern CPU/DSP needs a heat sink to function reliably as clock speeds increase for more function. They generate lots of heat in a small area and will die quite quickly otherwise. Diffusion rates increase with temperature and the gate leakage increases, less efficiency, goes out of spec, ceases to function. Be cool man!
you don't need to change the chip or the main board.All that you need to do is to install a heat sink in top of it. Use arctic paste for better fit and that;s it.This is the most common problem for Line 6. They didn't get it.
Thanks Dave mine is currently being worked on an replaced by a Line 6 Service center by me. It cost me a total of $180 since I am not under warranty. (the shop charges $80 for the first hour to look at it and they tell you whats wrong:so new DSP cost me a $100 on top of that) I could not use warranty however since I bought it used from someone with no paperwork of bill of sale so I had to bite the bullet here.
Got this problem with my spider valve 112. It's been so incredibly frustrating. Thank you so much for the actual diagnosis, although it's a real bummer that it can't be something simple like replacing tubes or something like I'd hoped...
Very interesting Dave. Thx for the demo. Was wondering if the malfunction on my line6 micro spider could be related to overheating too. I note that the control panel is the same so likely the same board in behind. My Sweep echo/Tape echo/Reverb knob is adding all kinds of weird noises it shouldn’t be, ranging from spaced out sounds to high volume white noise scratch hiss (in reverb mode). Just wondering if you’ve come across this phenomenon?
My 15 watt line 6 spider won’t even turn on. Haven’t used it for a few months and came back to try it and it won’t even turn. No idea what’s going on? Any thoughts?
They would probably just send you a new board. a couple of screws and unplug the ribbon cable. I had to replace the lcd display and my front board (the one with the controllers on it). Though the lcd works great now the board I replaced was not the problem. My chorus comes on by itself intermittently and when I change to clean channel, it is not clean and the volume goes down. any suggestions?
Hi everybody. I have a Spider IV 30w and had the same problem here in my studio, in Brazil. Even being turned on, the amp suddenly cuts the signal and... no sound ... with all the lights working... Could it be the same overheating problem? Tks in advance for any suggestion.
Hi dave have the same amp head and while playing sound cuts out lights are on and everything but no sound I guess that little black chip would be the cause right?
I think line 6 charges over $100 for the board. There is probably a 1 hour minimum labor charge if you have a shop fix it. I worked for a major electronics company and that is the only reason I had the equipment to replace the DSP itself. It's probably worth getting a different amp IMHO. BTW, on further investigation the chip had the be cooled to about 65 degrees F for it to start working. No amount of heat sinking or cooling fans would have made this amp reliable. Other people may have chips that cut out at a higher temperature. In that case a Dan "might" help.
My brother died recently, his wife gave me this model and it has the same problem...My worry is it is obviously a poor quality board ,so replacement with another will not solve it ... Would love to keep it but it has only come on once...
Hi Dave. I own a Spider III 15 watt amp. I was playing my amp. And it just turn off , the power switch still on position. My Amp Clean Crunch Metal Insane are push buttons over the control knobs. It may have been out for 3 to 5 seconds. I turn it off then on. No power. then it just came on. On the back says " Time Delay Fuse" . Too my amp wasn't very load only on , the volume 2 1/2 . any suggestions.
*Now I know why people hate this piece of shit product now, I couldn't understand why. I only ever used it a few times, the other day tried using a effects box* *and it toasted this use once and throw away product from the U.S of A.*
hahah the more he says "DONT there is NOTHING you can do about this": it makes you wanna do it more, like hes secretly challenging you...but dont worry i know i know
Hi Dave. Thanks for the video. Well received. I have a similar problem as, Fabrice GABRINI, with a Low Down (LD)150 bass amp. The sound just cuts after playing for a few minutes. All the controls respond normally, but no sound, even from the headphone plug. Who is Freescale"? Since I have been told that my amp is obsolete, where can I get a new mother board or DPS board? But now I read;" Line 6 says,"Any repair shop could change it". Line 6 is so very wrong. I have people here with incredible equipment trying to replace it and it is almost impossible to change out. They want to sell us a new board for $160 which is in the price range of a used amp. I'm very disappointed in the way they stand (they don't) behind their product". Yes, I agree, those type chips require specialized equipment. With that said, who can fix my amp for under the cost of the motherboard? I don't think I will ever buy an amp from this company again.
Hi Dave, thanks for show us the problem. I just buyed an use Line6 Spdier III 75wts and it has exactly the same problem. I live in Mexico and I realy dont know what can I do, because there is no Line6 repair center here. Do you know where can I buy the damage part in order to repair the ampli? maybe a wb site or something.. o what do you recomend? thanks again for your time!
Hi Dave. Thanks for this interesting video. I have a similar problem with a Ld150 bass amp. I couldn't find exactly where the problem comes from for the moment. The sound just cuts after playing for a few minutes. All the controls respond normally, but no sound, even from the headphone plug.
@@fefejipe Estos problemas son del chipset DSP el cual es programable tienens que registrar tu producto en la web de line 6 y en el soporte tecnico plantea tu problema te van a deribar con el importador de tu pais.
Hmm thx for the info . . I love my L6 Spider Classic . . awesome for a very small amp . . my problem is when trying to update and install software for the MK 2 Express I possible deleted the firmware and no sound with the guitar input but have sound if I plug into the mp3/cd input but not much gain ??? Can anyone help?
No that is absolutely not true. You are absolutely wrong. Installing a heat sink will not cool the chip since the air around the chip is hotter than the temperature that the chip has it's fault. I've keep saying this. It is a simple concept. If the chip has a problem above 65 degrees F, then a heat sink cannot help if the ambient air is above 65 degrees F. In fact the heat sink may help warm the chip up further. The chip generates VERY LITTLE heat. The problem is when the chips are bad, they fail at room temperature (76 degrees F) or even a little lower. Nothing you can do besides installing a solid state refrigeration unit like a thermoelectric cooler using the Peltier effect. What I demonstrated is cooling the chip BELOW room temperature using the evaporation of alcohol.
I just had a major problem last night. I turned on my Line6 spider valve HD100 head last night and after letting it warm up, I turned on the standby switch and thought I seen a little spark around the transformer on the right. Everything is still lit up but I can't get anything to come out of the speakers. No static or anything. Anyone have a clue what could be wrong. thanks
+Chrizz23 I didnt have the money to send my head to get repaired so I tried something else. I have another head I used to combine the 2 so I could still use all the effects on the line 6 tube head.. It's been a while but I think I sent from preamp out to guitar input on the other head and output from the other head to the cab. And you will still have to plug your guitar into the line 6 guitar input and use the master volume on the other amp to control your main volume, so make sure it's turned all the way down before you turn both heads on. This way you can still use the line 6 head. Sounds complicated, but I sware it works...
DSP chip is overheating because the electrolytic capacitors have lost their properties and do not filter the voltage, even polymer capacitors need to be replaced, and if that does not help, voltage regulators. Alternatively, you can still reflow the chip. On graphics cards, bga graphics processors (gpu) and ram memory are replaced, this dsp chip here will be replaced by an experienced electrician in a few minutes. I don't know why the author of the recording keeps repeating "don't do it at home" after all, even for an amateur who has a soldering iron, it's nothing extraordinary.
Here e go again. So how does a heat sink cool the chips 10 degrees BELOW ambient temperature. It CAN’T. Heat sinks AND a fan were initially tried and they did nothing but in colder ambient temperatures below 70 degrees simply delay the chips warming up and failing. When the ambient temperature was 90 degrees and the chips fails at 80 degrees a heat sink will KEEP the chip at 90 degrees where they fail right at turn on. It’s very simple physics. Heat sinks so NOT cool semiconductors below the ambient temperature.
i simply said don’t do this at home. it takes equipment that most people don’t have at home. This was fixed under a microscope and reflow machine. Most people cannot and should not do this. in fact most people should not even open up the amplifier. i’m not sure what you are arguing about. this is simply common sense.
This is basically an smd reflow repair first and replace the chip if it still does not stay cool. Obviously some thermal paste with a decent heat sink should make it work. The smd resistors and caps need also some reflow. This happens to hot boards that have poor cooling lol ask any Mac Book Pro user lmao and their $800 repairs for a 2 cent smd cap 😂
No amount of heat sinking or airflow will cool the chip below ambient temperature. As demonstrated, there is not a physical contact (SMD reflow will not help). This is a pure and simple temperature based failure of the DSP. Replacing the device cured the problem.
@@davemuri smd chips do go bad take a look at the Mac book pro problems for a hilarious look at the garbage apple makes. The issue is just like the Mac book pros you need a supply of donor boards which makes the repairs expensive. Many people are buying the schematics and board views because the OEMs are selling them through back door channels. The audio industry is like any other, get it built cheaper charge a high amount and make a profit. If you seen what is inside a MacBook pro it is just smd components from the year 1997 only new smd control chips are actually doing the heavy work. People don't realize that inside their new Amp there are still 1960 components lol.
This guy is a joke. Obviously trying to take your money rather than being helpful providing do it yourself fix it tips like so many other you tubers. A heatsink WILL fix the problem as other youtube posts prove. VERY easy to fix. Try it.
Do not fix this yourself..... but here's how you prod a live amp with a metal tipped pen and stick your fingers around the capacitors on the power board
This guy is completely wrong, get a 20X20X10mm heatsink for the main chip and some smaller ones for the 3 aluminum towers in the back, some heatsink glue and glue them all on, problem solved, to go a step further you can install a computer fan, a small 60X60X20mm brushless will do the job perfect. I've done this to my own amps and is the fix for this problem.
How about the volume drop issue? I've reset the head to factory NUMEROUS times, yet as soon as I switch between channels, the volume drops completely out. You then have to turn vol to zero and back up for sound. ANY tips? TY!
i live in Alabama. It gets hot here too. I jave a line 6 amp, and after ten years it started havinig over heating problems. I was tol by a tech that when the amp gets old the ceramic paste gets old and wears out. I installed a heat sink on the cpu and that took care of it. The heat sink thats already there is adequate enough, or the amp wouldn't Have lasted as long as it did. I think the main chip in your amp just went bad from maybe overheating too much. All amps have their Quirks and problems. that is why they need to be fixed from time. Linr 6 are great amps or so many wouldn't have been sold
I put a small CPU fan with a shroud around big Chip because it was cutting out and clicking also the sound became very trebley no matter the adjustment my line 6 is a spider 2 150x2. Same layout boards. Since I installed CPU fan it stays cool and no more issues Watkins Glen NY waving 🤘
Can anyone give me a hint ? My Line 6 micro spider chugs (tok tok tok tok, you may call it also rattle) permanently.. I tested with 3 cables , same problem. It should be calm without using a guitar , tok tok toktok... I looked inside hmm ,all elkos look good, no smoke no apparently sign of board damage. With or without batteries , same symptom persisting. Thanks folks !
I had put a heat sink on and also a fan. This delays the problem but doesn't cure it. Line 6 sold us a new chip and said "Any repair shop could change it". Line 6 is so very wrong. I have people here with incredible equipment trying to replace it and it is almost impossible to change out. They want to sell us a new board for $160 which is in the price range of a used amp. I'm very disappointed in the way they stand (they don't) behind their product.
if you dont have a heat gun and some solder paste and flux it should be okey.I wonder if this just need a heatsink on the dsp .it get,s to varm and goes in protect mode?
Can't be sure unless I looked at it but it is possibly the same problem. The DSP is made by Freescale which makes very good chips so I am surprised that this seems to be a common problem
This video is a good hearing test. If you can't hear the very annoying highpitched noise during the video, you've got hearing damage
Look at it on a spectrum analyzer....you'll find that it exists everywhere...our ears tune this out naturally...you're just now aware of this?
I kept barking for reasons unbeknownst to me until I read your comment. So I thank you, my GF thanks you and my neighbors agreed not to call animal services. 🤦🏼♂️😂🤷🏼♂️
My fix was bonding an aluminum block about 1 inch square let it set up . Haven’t had a problem since . Thanks for the video it helped tremendously :)
How did you bond it
A heat sink AND a fan did not solve this problem as ambient temperature here in Florida are enough to trigger this condition. The DSP is simply heat sensitive. The chip was removed and every single pin hand soldered to the board by an amazing technician under a microscope.
I'm trying to help people here and with 37 years of engineering experience I cannot imagine why people would leave rude comments.
After replacing the chip we are back to using this amp on stage. No thanks to the people at Line 6 who said any repair shop can perform this replacement. I know of none that can.
+Dave Muri That arrogant attitude by line 6 towards their customers who suffer these problems with their shitty equipment components is what will kill their business eventually. Word of mouth is very powerful and if they piss off enough people it will come back to bite them.
WOW. I'm surprised a heat sink didn't work, because mine is all apart because i blew the power amp, and ordered the new board to go on heat sink. (Spider IV - 150watt combo) Im going to try the heat sink, and install a little computer fan in there too, ill let you know how it worked out.
I have this problem. Where Can I buy this chip?
By the way i have the line 6 spider 3 75w.
I know it's an older video,but it gives me something to consider. I have a Flextone 2. Everything works except the main volume,it seems to be stuck very low,like 1or 2. Any advice is welcome.
I'll say this one more time. this DSP has to be cooled BELOW ambient temperature to work. There is absolutely no way, even with a CPU cooler fan that you can cool the DSP below ambient temperature. Maybe other people have DSPs that cut out at higher temperatures but this one cuts out at room temperature. The alcohol I used does cool the DSP below the ambient temperature. Clearly many of the responders do not understand this.
Sounds like internal resistance of the chip, maybe a faulty batch.
i have a line 6 spider II 150wrms that sometimes change the sound without any change on chanel or knob positions. first i'm think the problem is in the speakers...but the problem still apearing even working with phones.( my english is rusty. sorry) can you give me some help?
OK, so maybe I’m too simple to understand this why wouldn’t a heat sink work when it’s intermittently happening at room temperature and a small amount of alcohol will cool down? I’m ask this because my Spider V 120 behaves erratic and has volume issues etc after I’ve been playing for a while. Depending on the room temp, it could be after as little as 10 minutes. Another YT video suggested an overheated processor and showed a way to fix it using a fan. I’m in no way mechanically blessed to even watch till the end. I found both results interesting considering the complete opposite viewpoints on a nearly identical issue. Also, I’m aware of the time that passed since your comment. So if you’re not still on YT or whatever then disregard this. Oh, wait............ if you aren’t......😂 🤷🏼♂️ I warned that I my not be the shapest knife at a gunfight. B
My DSP chip didn't understand it either, glueing a heat spreader/sink with heatsink glue (to avoid having to figure how to tie a squirrilly heat sink down) sorted it and has given no trouble since. Any modern CPU/DSP needs a heat sink to function reliably as clock speeds increase for more function. They generate lots of heat in a small area and will die quite quickly otherwise. Diffusion rates increase with temperature and the gate leakage increases, less efficiency, goes out of spec, ceases to function. Be cool man!
you don't need to change the chip or the main board.All that you need to do is to install a heat sink in top of it. Use arctic paste for better fit and that;s it.This is the most common problem for Line 6. They didn't get it.
did you just use artic paste to stick the heat sink? (mrmisterock)
@@mikeskeins1981 I cut a heatsink from an old computer, put thermal paste on it and held it in place with 2 nylon straps.
Thanks Dave mine is currently being worked on an replaced by a Line 6 Service center by me. It cost me a total of $180 since I am not under warranty. (the shop charges $80 for the first hour to look at it and they tell you whats wrong:so new DSP cost me a $100 on top of that) I could not use warranty however since I bought it used from someone with no paperwork of bill of sale so I had to bite the bullet here.
Got this problem with my spider valve 112. It's been so incredibly frustrating. Thank you so much for the actual diagnosis, although it's a real bummer that it can't be something simple like replacing tubes or something like I'd hoped...
Conseguiu arrumar? Tenho um spider IV 75w sem som... tudo acende... mas nao sai som algum
Why cant we fuse a heatsink into this processor? You know, like on the motherboard of a pc? Please Answer
Very interesting Dave. Thx for the demo. Was wondering if the malfunction on my line6 micro spider could be related to overheating too. I note that the control panel is the same so likely the same board in behind. My Sweep echo/Tape echo/Reverb knob is adding all kinds of weird noises it shouldn’t be, ranging from spaced out sounds to high volume white noise scratch hiss (in reverb mode). Just wondering if you’ve come across this phenomenon?
i know this is old, but were you able to solve this problem? I have a mini spider and the sound cuts out after a while.
@@SavDog262 I haven’t. I gave up. I just don’t use the effects.
@@daleschimpf interesting. Ill test it without using the effects. and maybe ill just try a heat sink like others have mentioned.
My 15 watt line 6 spider won’t even turn on. Haven’t used it for a few months and came back to try it and it won’t even turn. No idea what’s going on? Any thoughts?
Check fuses , open it up 'unplugged "and look for loose wires , keep fingers away from caps ....
They would probably just send you a new board. a couple of screws and unplug the ribbon cable. I had to replace the lcd display and my front board (the one with the controllers on it). Though the lcd works great now the board I replaced was not the problem. My chorus comes on by itself intermittently and when I change to clean channel, it is not clean and the volume goes down. any suggestions?
Hi everybody. I have a Spider IV 30w and had the same problem here in my studio, in Brazil. Even being turned on, the amp suddenly cuts the signal and... no sound ... with all the lights working... Could it be the same overheating problem? Tks in advance for any suggestion.
Hi dave have the same amp head and while playing sound cuts out lights are on and everything but no sound I guess that little black chip would be the cause right?
I think line 6 charges over $100 for the board. There is probably a 1 hour minimum labor charge if you have a shop fix it. I worked for a major electronics company and that is the only reason I had the equipment to replace the DSP itself. It's probably worth getting a different amp IMHO.
BTW, on further investigation the chip had the be cooled to about 65 degrees F for it to start working. No amount of heat sinking or cooling fans would have made this amp reliable. Other people may have chips that cut out at a higher temperature. In that case a Dan "might" help.
My brother died recently, his wife gave me this model and it has the same problem...My worry is it is obviously a poor quality board ,so replacement with another will not solve it ... Would love to keep it but it has only come on once...
Hi Dave. I own a Spider III 15 watt amp. I was playing my amp. And it just turn off , the power switch still on position. My Amp Clean Crunch Metal Insane are push buttons over the control knobs. It may have been out for 3 to 5 seconds. I turn it off then on. No power. then it just came on. On the back says " Time Delay Fuse" . Too my amp wasn't very load only on , the volume 2 1/2 . any suggestions.
*Now I know why people hate this piece of shit product now, I couldn't understand why. I only ever used it a few times, the other day tried using a effects box* *and it toasted this use once and throw away product from the U.S of A.*
You can put a heat sink on the chip like you do for a computer chip and install a small fan, run it off the power switch.
hahah the more he says "DONT there is NOTHING you can do about this": it makes you wanna do it more, like hes secretly challenging you...but dont worry i know i know
Hi Dave. Thanks for the video. Well received. I have a similar problem as, Fabrice GABRINI, with a Low Down (LD)150 bass amp. The sound just cuts after playing for a few minutes. All the controls respond normally, but no sound, even from the headphone plug. Who is Freescale"? Since I have been told that my amp is obsolete, where can I get a new mother board or DPS board? But now I read;" Line 6 says,"Any repair shop could change it". Line 6 is so very wrong. I have people here with incredible equipment trying to replace it and it is almost impossible to change out. They want to sell us a new board for $160 which is in the price range of a used amp. I'm very disappointed in the way they stand (they don't) behind their product". Yes, I agree, those type chips require specialized equipment. With that said, who can fix my amp for under the cost of the motherboard? I don't think I will ever buy an amp from this company again.
Would a passive aluminum heat sync fix it, Or stop it from happening with the new chip?
According to this video, a passive heat sink solves the issue: ua-cam.com/video/YBoPRb5tVDs/v-deo.html
Hi Dave, thanks for show us the problem. I just buyed an use Line6 Spdier III 75wts and it has exactly the same problem. I live in Mexico and I realy dont know what can I do, because there is no Line6 repair center here. Do you know where can I buy the damage part in order to repair the ampli? maybe a wb site or something.. o what do you recomend? thanks again for your time!
Corté un disipador de calor de una computadora vieja, le puse pasta térmica y lo sujeté con 2 correas de naylon.
Hi Dave. Thanks for this interesting video. I have a similar problem with a Ld150 bass amp. I couldn't find exactly where the problem comes from for the moment. The sound just cuts after playing for a few minutes. All the controls respond normally, but no sound, even from the headphone plug.
Conseguiu arrumar? Tenho um spider IV 75w...o som ficava intermitente até que parou de vez... e nao estou conseguindo arrumar no brasil... me ajude
@@fefejipe Estos problemas son del chipset DSP el cual es programable tienens que registrar tu producto en la web de line 6 y en el soporte tecnico plantea tu problema te van a deribar con el importador de tu pais.
Mine has no sound what so ever does anybody have any fix
Where do you get the board???
Hmm thx for the info . . I love my L6 Spider Classic . . awesome for a very small amp . . my problem is when trying to update and install software for the MK 2 Express I possible deleted the firmware and no sound with the guitar input but have sound if I plug into the mp3/cd input
but not much gain ??? Can anyone help?
Actually Cannot argue with that.
Does this problem start happening again after you get the DSP replaced?
No. Replacing the DSP fixed the problem permanently.
Thanks for the diagnosis but we feel like you might have been interrupted from being over in a corner somewhere cringing...
No that is absolutely not true. You are absolutely wrong. Installing a heat sink will not cool the chip since the air around the chip is hotter than the temperature that the chip has it's fault. I've keep saying this. It is a simple concept. If the chip has a problem above 65 degrees F, then a heat sink cannot help if the ambient air is above 65 degrees F. In fact the heat sink may help warm the chip up further. The chip generates VERY LITTLE heat. The problem is when the chips are bad, they fail at room temperature (76 degrees F) or even a little lower. Nothing you can do besides installing a solid state refrigeration unit like a thermoelectric cooler using the Peltier effect. What I demonstrated is cooling the chip BELOW room temperature using the evaporation of alcohol.
What do you recommend, maybe having a fan blow right on it? I'm sure a small heat sink should do something.
As azraael says, stick a PC CPU cooler setup on it - should solve it
I just had a major problem last night. I turned on my Line6 spider valve HD100 head last night and after letting it warm up, I turned on the standby switch and thought I seen a little spark around the transformer on the right. Everything is still lit up but I can't get anything to come out of the speakers. No static or anything. Anyone have a clue what could be wrong. thanks
+jamie lewis i got the same problem since yesterday. Did you find any solution for this problem? Thanks in advance
+Chrizz23 I didnt have the money to send my head to get repaired so I tried something else. I have another head I used to combine the 2 so I could still use all the effects on the line 6 tube head.. It's been a while but I think I sent from preamp out to guitar input on the other head and output from the other head to the cab. And you will still have to plug your guitar into the line 6 guitar input and use the master volume on the other amp to control your main volume, so make sure it's turned all the way down before you turn both heads on. This way you can still use the line 6 head. Sounds complicated, but I sware it works...
DSP chip is overheating because the electrolytic capacitors have lost their properties and do not filter the voltage, even polymer capacitors need to be replaced, and if that does not help, voltage regulators. Alternatively, you can still reflow the chip. On graphics cards, bga graphics processors (gpu) and ram memory are replaced, this dsp chip here will be replaced by an experienced electrician in a few minutes. I don't know why the author of the recording keeps repeating "don't do it at home" after all, even for an amateur who has a soldering iron, it's nothing extraordinary.
Why not simply lift the board and place some thermal tape on the under side turning the metal frame into a heatsink...
Here e go again. So how does a heat sink cool the chips 10 degrees BELOW ambient temperature. It CAN’T. Heat sinks AND a fan were initially tried and they did nothing but in colder ambient temperatures below 70 degrees simply delay the chips warming up and failing. When the ambient temperature was 90 degrees and the chips fails at 80 degrees a heat sink will KEEP the chip at 90 degrees where they fail right at turn on. It’s very simple physics. Heat sinks so NOT cool semiconductors below the ambient temperature.
Could you not just put a heat sink on it with some thermal paist?
i simply said don’t do this at home. it takes equipment that most people don’t have at home. This was fixed under a microscope and reflow machine. Most people cannot and should not do this. in fact most people should not even open up the amplifier. i’m not sure what you are arguing about. this is simply common sense.
This is basically an smd reflow repair first and replace the chip if it still does not stay cool. Obviously some thermal paste with a decent heat sink should make it work. The smd resistors and caps need also some reflow. This happens to hot boards that have poor cooling lol ask any Mac Book Pro user lmao and their $800 repairs for a 2 cent smd cap 😂
No amount of heat sinking or airflow will cool the chip below ambient temperature. As demonstrated, there is not a physical contact (SMD reflow will not help). This is a pure and simple temperature based failure of the DSP. Replacing the device cured the problem.
@@davemuri smd chips do go bad take a look at the Mac book pro problems for a hilarious look at the garbage apple makes. The issue is just like the Mac book pros you need a supply of donor boards which makes the repairs expensive. Many people are buying the schematics and board views because the OEMs are selling them through back door channels. The audio industry is like any other, get it built cheaper charge a high amount and make a profit. If you seen what is inside a MacBook pro it is just smd components from the year 1997 only new smd control chips are actually doing the heavy work. People don't realize that inside their new Amp there are still 1960 components lol.
Put a heatsink on it
No, when your Line 6 get this problem just put it in the trash and get a real amp.
*Couldn't have said it better my friend =)*
But i know what not to touch
Put a heat sink on it... Done
just install a fan problem solved
He could buy another one used for like 150 lol
I just took a soldering iron and gently heated up the chip; somehow it worked for me.
What worked?
bullshit - i'm s certified repair tech - please don't tell me not to service it .. who do you think the people working in such facilites are? gods?
Sounds like a relay is bad.
This guy is a joke. Obviously trying to take your money rather than being helpful providing do it yourself fix it tips like so many other you tubers. A heatsink WILL fix the problem as other youtube posts prove. VERY easy to fix. Try it.
Do not fix this yourself..... but here's how you prod a live amp with a metal tipped pen and stick your fingers around the capacitors on the power board
As long as you're using one hand, you're fine...
This guy is completely wrong, get a 20X20X10mm heatsink for the main chip and some smaller ones for the 3 aluminum towers in the back, some heatsink glue and glue them all on, problem solved, to go a step further you can install a computer fan, a small 60X60X20mm brushless will do the job perfect. I've done this to my own amps and is the fix for this problem.
How about the volume drop issue? I've reset the head to factory NUMEROUS times, yet as soon as I switch between channels, the volume drops completely out. You then have to turn vol to zero and back up for sound. ANY tips? TY!
i live in Alabama. It gets hot here too. I jave a line 6 amp, and after ten years it started havinig over heating problems. I was tol by a tech that when the amp gets old the ceramic paste gets old and wears out. I installed a heat sink on the cpu and that took care of it. The heat sink thats already there is adequate enough, or the amp wouldn't Have lasted as long as it did.
I think the main chip in your amp just went bad from maybe overheating too much. All amps have their Quirks and problems. that is why they need to be fixed from time. Linr 6 are great amps or so many wouldn't have been sold
I put a small CPU fan with a shroud around big Chip because it was cutting out and clicking also the sound became very trebley no matter the adjustment my line 6 is a spider 2 150x2. Same layout boards. Since I installed CPU fan it stays cool and no more issues Watkins Glen NY waving 🤘
Can anyone give me a hint ? My Line 6 micro spider chugs (tok tok tok tok, you may call it also rattle) permanently.. I tested with 3 cables , same problem. It should be calm without using a guitar , tok tok toktok... I looked inside hmm ,all elkos look good, no smoke no apparently sign of board damage. With or without batteries , same symptom persisting.
Thanks folks !
Where can I order a replacement main board ?
add a heat sink on the top of the chip
I had put a heat sink on and also a fan. This delays the problem but doesn't cure it. Line 6 sold us a new chip and said "Any repair shop could change it". Line 6 is so very wrong. I have people here with incredible equipment trying to replace it and it is almost impossible to change out. They want to sell us a new board for $160 which is in the price range of a used amp. I'm very disappointed in the way they stand (they don't) behind their product.
Could you operate the power amp section from the fx loop if this DSP fail happens?
Mine just squeals when I turn it on. Do you know what could be causing it? Any help would be great!
if you dont have a heat gun and some solder paste and flux it should be okey.I wonder if this just need a heatsink on the dsp .it get,s to varm and goes in protect mode?
Can't be sure unless I looked at it but it is possibly the same problem. The DSP is made by Freescale which makes very good chips so I am surprised that this seems to be a common problem
Is there any fix for line 6 spider iv 75w blackbox syndrome?
You could for sure just put a heat sink on there along with some thermal paste.
Why dont yo try a heat sink with some thermal paste like in a cpu?
Hello, I cant turn off the delay on my spider II 112... Any suggestions?
Try resetting the amp, that's strange.
seems legit..
If your amp went back to working then your DSP was fried, not just from overheating