Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is a link to the Digital Refrigerant Scale used in the video amzn.to/2b9oXYl Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos amzn.to/2aBumVI Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos amzn.to/2aenwTq Here is a link to the Hilmor 4 port Aluminum Manifold Gauge Set- amzn.to/2m4QLik Here is a link to a Dual Readout Temperature Meter with two k type temp sensors- amzn.to/2sQffyB Here is a link to the Appion core removal and vacuum tool- amzn.to/2t5ogIb Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Other tool links can be found in the video description section. ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.
When you charge an older orifice tube system do you worry about superheat and sub cooling ? An AC tech told me once that 75 on the low side and 240 on the hi side is spot on but you didn't seem to worry about those numbers at all.🤘🏻👍🏻
I start a hvac program this august and I've been trying to find videos like yours for the longest time to kind of get my head in the game. I'm so glad I found your stuff. Great info man🤘🏻👍🏻
no he doesn't. There's a MORE desperate need for these "intelligent" techs to teach those that don't have the luxury of time for college by teaching HERE. He reaches 10 fold the techs on video then he would in class twice a week for 4 hours.
I like the way you charged here compared to how I was taught. I was taught to add liquid to the high side with the system off (into receiver) which doesn't show in real time how the charge is affecting subcool and is more complicated in disconnecting hoses as you have to clear the refrigerant from the high side into the low side.
So one thing I cannot find answer to from anywhere. The vapor line we call it auction line which means compressor is sucking in. So how come when you purge from the blue hose on suction line, it doesn’t suck air in? I was always in assumption that the big line is sucking all the time as compressor runs? Can you explain please.
I'm curious, since you tried to purge the blue line while the system was running (suction) and nothing came out, air, wouldn't that indicate what ever air was in the blue line already has been sucked into the system since you did it with the system running? Seems to me the way to do it is to first connect the lines with the system off, purge the blue & red lines of air from the internal pressure leaving the system, and finally open the Freon can and purge the yellow line of air.
Why was there a need to purge the liquid /red line if you're not adding to the high/liquid side? Won't you get an accurate pressure reading regardless of whether that line is purged?
Great video! I really enjoy your teaching style of video's, focusing and explaining each step along the way. Great channel, great tech and a great teacher. Thank you.
What happens if you don't put the little black caps back on? Asking because we had a guy come out to fill the ac and 5 hours later still no cold air. I went out side to see if he forgot something and I found one of those black caps on top of the ac unit
Why do I have a Short Cycling Residential A/C? My outside unit is running non-stop. How to fix this unwanted problem? What caused this to Short Cycle? I purchased a New Thermostat, however, foreign items are useless. Honeywell Home is made in Mexico. Not worth it!
thank's partner I can't wait to view your work!!! i'm @ home now catching up on some ac work, thank you for sharing as well as norcal, jim petinato, powlas joes round table, david jones, fox family heating and air, etc.....
please explain why are adding R410A blended refrigerant to the system with gas already in there.you have to reclaim everything as now you dont the right ratio of the gas blend in there.
Saveena, This is a new install so you don't have enough refrigerant if the system has a long line set. That is why we add refrigerant. I regards to the other issue of a blend, R-410A can be topped off if there is a leak that is fixed. That is not a problem. In the case of R-410A, manufacturer trainings will say it is ok to top off systems as far as the blend is concerned because it is near azeotropic even though they want the refrigerant to come out of the bottle as a liquid to avoid fractionation. Obviously not over and over again. If you are working with other zeotropic refrigerants then more care must be taken when fixing leaks and adding to the charge. Here is some good reading material. Thanks for the question! www.achrnews.com/articles/82752-blends-101-an-introduction-to-refrigerants
on older leaking units if suspected low refrigerant should you check with bubble Leak Detector even before removing caps? and then again after removing caps before attaching gauges? isn't the schrader valve the most prevalent cause of slow to very slow refrigerant leaking?? Should you replace your older valve caps with newer o-ring caps?
hi, does the evaporator saturation temp. go up when you're adding refrigerant into the low side? I see that the high side pressure goes up but what about the low side? does it also go up simultaneously with the high side? thanks.
I am new at this (and have a lot to learn) and a lot of videos don't cover how to attach the hoses/manifold. When you attach your manifold and purge the lines like you did, isn't there still air in the manifold itself? I was recommended a method that purges the air in the manifold too: Open each valve on the manifold and allow the refrigerant from the system push towards the tank where the fitting is loose on the tank itself. this should leave no air in the manifold and the hoses. Can you think of a problem or pitfall with that method? Thanks ...great videos!
That method works great. That is the same that you would see in the recovery video I just did, thanks. A pitfall could be not knowing exactly when all the air is out because the vapor and liquid are mixing. When you purge a vapor line there is some noise change but you definitely know when you purge a liquid line. But we do what we can, thanks Tony!
Is it super important to have the caps on? Our brand new unit is blowing air but it's not cold. Went out there and the caps won't even thread on - they were just propped on there.
The indoor or outdoor fan could be not running, the compressor could be not running or you may be low on refrigerant. if it is new, they certainly should have caps on them. Refrigerant could be leaking out of the ports if the schrader valves are not seated properly. Any way these are things that may be possibly wrong, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel no matter. There’s nothing like this available in the UK but the principles are the same regardless. One thing though. You tend to purge lines releasing small amounts of gas but we are taught to vacuum lines negating the need to purge.
You could try that but the second it turns on, it would suck the vapor pressure back down and shut off. You would need some steady pressure going into the vapor side to keep the pressure switch from tripping or temporarily jump the pressure switch and keep the vapor pressure positive. The reality is that if the unit is that low on refrigerant then you lost likely 90% of the charge because that means you have no liquid left to vaporize inside the unit. If it was a seal that was loose and now you tightened it then ok but if it is a leak, make sure to fix it for multiple reasons. It won't hold very long at all as you need 97% of the actual correct charge to work correctly. You don't want that refrigerant to just leak out into the environment obviously, thanks Peter!
In this case I did not want to overcharge the system but if you can anticipate how much refrigerant you are going to need then yes add that liquid in. We always do that on pm's but this was weighing quite a bit of refrigerant in, thanks Sheng!
So after evacuation is satisfied on a new AC system and high, low and vacuum knobs are shut off and I need to add the extra 410a which in my case is (18ft x .6) =10.8oz. Do I after prepping jug on scale: Open just high side guage with service valves on AC unit still (seated) closed until I read the 10.8oz on scale. Then shut high side and jug off. Open service valves on AC unit, turn on power and start up system? INFO. I have no valve core tools so evacuation in my case will be I guess old school until I can purchase them. So straight hoses from guages to service valves.
In that case then you would attach the r410a bottle upside down to the yellow service hose, purge air to the end of the yellow hose connected to manifold. Then zero the scale and weight liquid refrigerant into the liquid side until you get to the weight desired. If it is a system that you can turn on and check in superheat or subcooling then weigh a little less than needed and do final adjustments while the system is running but I would highly highly recommend getting 3 appion valve core removal tools. I have them linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech , Have you looked up the video on vacuuming- "acservicetech full vacuum procedure"?
When weighing, document the total weight of the bottle. I write the original weight in shapie, as well as what I use and when. Keeping both a used total and total weight.
Sounds good! I put the yellow service hose under the plastic case of my scale and then zero the scale out. This way gauge movement does not affect the scale reading, thanks!
where i am from, they really don't use scale or even worry about sub cooling and stuff. they just charge the r410a upside down and use the low side gauge to check the psi. is that ok?
Wow, no it is not ok for efficiency or compressor safety. If a system has a fixed orifice, you use the superheat method. Look up "acservicetech superheat or target superheat" for charging videos, thanks
Excellent video.....1 question 410a with TXV same as this video....any difference/concerns if your charging the system on a day when its 70 degrees outside as opposed to a 90 degree day outside... and not in direct sun light
The target subcooling should be listed on the outdoor rating plate and you can check the charge any time it is 70 degrees or higher inside as well as outside, thanks!
I have a brand new set of YJ 410a manifold gauges. In trying to obtain subcooling I connected my hoses to the unit ports; the high side gauge went up to 250 PSI, but the gauge on my low side (Blue) didn't move at all. Along with that, the saturated temp (80 degrees) was below the temp on the high pressure line (82). So not knowing why my gauge wasn't showing pressure and why the temps, I disconnected the lines from the unit. Do you think my gauge is damaged and why can't I get a higher temp on saturated level?
The unit may be undercharged if there is no subcooling, your temp sensor could be off and not calibrated. You could put in 32 degree ice water to check. The blue hose end with the valve core depressor may not be pushing in the schrader valve enough, You also need to zero your gauges out first for your elevation, thanks
This is a new installation right? Why not recover all the refrigerant and then weigh out exactly what is needed and release it back into the system? No guesswork then, right? Or maybe I'm missing something. Why was it low to begin with?
So what would happen if u left the vapor side open instead of putting in a little at a time. And what would happen if put to much of r 22 in there? I'm 20 trying to get my HVAC and need as much knowledge as possible before I take the test
Overcharge for fixed orifice systems will damage the compressor with liquid refrigerant entering it. TXV systems will be less efficient when overcharged. You would damage the compressor if you charged a lot of liquid into the compressor at a time. It is a vapor only compressor, thanks
Hey partner my mom's a/c has a sight glass I see no refrigerant flowing and the middle dot is black??? some time's I see a swoosh of refrigerant gush than the sight glass look's empty????
jimbola77 Why would have a sight glass on a Ac that dot is for moisture in the system that dot should should some color it depends on what type of sight glass part you have usual a label would tell you what color that dot should be .Look above the common how an should be charge is the AC cooling.
What determines the refrigerant entering into the unit in a liquid or a vapor state. Are certain refrigerants always entered as a liquid while others have to be introduced as a vapor. Cannot R-22 be put in as a liquid or a vapor, also why are you putting liquid into the suction line???
R410A has to come out of the bottle as a liquid to keep the mix correct. R-22 can come out as liquid or vapor. When the system is vacuumed and you would like to weigh refrigerant in, you can break the vacuum with liquid refrigerant into the liquid line. When the system is running, the liquid refrigerant can get metered into the vapor line slowly to keep the compressor safe. In some of my other videos you will see a vaporizer attached to my vapor port of the manifold gauge set to help vaporize the liquid into a vapor somewhat, before entering into the suction line and into the compressor, thanks
we use the subcooling method for systems with a txv that are single speed and not microchanel but we still monitor superheat to make sure that the txv is doing its job and to mae sure that the sat temp on the low side is not below 32 degrees, thanks!
Hi, I just installed my first Goodman heat pump, my question is why my succion line is hot? can you help me, could it be the termosthat wiring or is low in refrigerant because the line set is 20' long?
If the vapor line is very hot then it sounds like you are in heat mode. The reversing valve must not be powered. Yes it is likely the thermostat wiring and the B or O terminal, thanks
Great videos. Keep it up. Can you make a video on how to charge a unit with a variable speed compressor and electronic expansion valves? Especially since most have very vague installation instructions.
You mentioned weighing in the correct amount of liquid and vapour refrigerant per foot of line set. Could you explain the formula you would use to calculate that please .
So when charging, you are typically taking liquid from the bottom of the bottle at sat state pressure into the low pressure side of the system. When recovering without a recovery machine but the compressor itself, subcooled liquid pressure comes out of the system and into the sat state pressure recovery bottle, thanks Brent!
Hey there, it might be off topic a little, but I wanted to get your thoughts on using a charging cylinder? I work on refrigerators, and one of the techs said for small freon amounts in Ounces, it’s better to use a cylinder vs. a scale. I’ve noticed that the scale will change weight a little, not sure if because the yellow hose is moving around, but I don’t want to be fumbling around with scales and messing up charges. Thanks!
They actually have programmable scales where you purge the air up to the valve on the end of your refrigerant hoses or access port right at the connection to the unit and then zero the scale out. Program your total and the scale will stop the flow once there. I know what you mean, you really need to be very precise and watch what you are doing with scales that don't have a solenoid but will take into consideration hose movement. I just use electronic scales, thanks toneblair!
I have a question. should I take HVAC class from adults apprenticeship trades school night times class or take HVAC class in college ? what's the same and different ? Thanks you.
College is usually less hands on. I would start by contacting the local technical or vocational high school and see if they off adult classes or adult apprenticeship at night as many usually do. This will usually be your best bang for the buck while giving the best experience. Obviously locations are different but this would be my view, thanks!
He said once you notice your lowside gauge equaling out and not jumping up in pressure anymore is when all the liquid is gone and all that remains is vapor in the hose
Hi, I just love all the videos you are putting up, and thanks to you I'm going in to this occupation because around here there is not many technicians who knows what they are doing. But I have one question, are you using different gauges for different types of cooling gas, or can you just purge the gauges before use. Thanks for a superb series of videos, which are better than every school and courses you can attend.
I always check the temperature split at the indoor unit after I charge it up and if it's between 17 and 21 I am happy with it. What is your take on that? Thanks
Yes that is what I do 18-21 delta T, but when you are checking a unit that is dealing with very high humidity, you may not get it on piston systems so you have to rely on just your superheat in those circumstances. I always check it though because it is one of those confirmations when you do see it, thanks David!
acservicetech Yeah right now I am doing install and I have not worked with any units that have pistons. The only units we seem to install are Trane and Rheem and they are TXV systems. Eventually I will transfer to service so the info you gave me will be very helpful. I need to start right down all of this and keeping it in a folder. Haha! Also sometimes I run across units that give me a higher temp split would that be because there is not enough return air flow? Thanks man!
They may be variable speed compressors if the manufacturers say they should have a higher temp split. If you are reading a higher temp split on a single speed compressor then yes it very well may be low air flow. Check the low side to make sure it won't eventually freeze if it stays on, thanks
Good day, just to say thank you for sharing your expertise. I have only a question to my doubt with regards to subcooling relation to current (Amps) reading in compressor. How much reading need for subcooling that we can consider enough based on experienced. How about the current of compressor it is need to read full load or based on subcooling only. Thank you in advance.
A compressor curve is used on refrigeration but not on air conditioning. The amp draw will go up if the refrigerant cannot reject the heat and the pressure goes up or there is too much subcooling taking up the outdoor coil and the coil has a hard time rejecting the heat, make sure to set the subcooling to the target found on the rating plate or 1 or 2 degrees above the target txv subcooling rating on the outdoor unit, thanks
thank you for share. I have a question did you check superheat after you charged refrigerant to ac unit with subcooling method? I charged refrigerant to my r22 system ac unit with txv with subcooling method last week,my gauges showed my subcooling is at target,but I tried measure my superheat it was too high I got about 35superheat. My lowside gauge got 65 psig saturated temperature about 40 degrees and suction line temperature about 75 degrees. So 75-40=35superheat. Is there something wrong?
It sounds like a liquid line restriction or the txv is not adjusted correctly. Take a temp reading across the filter drier to see if it is blocked. If it is higher than 2-3 degrees then it is clogged. If it is not the filter drier then check the screen and txv. You can also look up"acservicetech liquid line restriction" thanks
Thankful to you for this UA-cam recording I hope the camera that’s used in this video too closed and clearing But I hope see this video again but too closely from everything Thank you aging
When you were adding refrigerant why was the bottle upside down if you are adding it as a vapor? I thought if the bottle is upside down you are adding it as a liquid?
R410a has to come out of the bottle as a liquid to stay mixed because there are actually two refrigerants mixed together in that pink bottle which make up r410a. I charged in slowely with only letting the psi rise a little on the vapor side which allows the liquid to vaporize somewhat before heading to the compressor. I usually use a kwik charge cylinder- amzn.to/2wFHtBW - in almost all the other videos which you see hanging below the vapor gauge in those other videos, thanks and here is the list of playlists- ua-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
It is a liquid when it's upside down. On some units it can possibly change to a vapor before reaching the compressor depending on what the condenser has before the compressor in the line.
they are applicable because they do happen but the rate is not the same since the vehicle ac compressor turns at varying rate depending on the rpm of the engine, thanks!
I noticed that too..after he adds the reaming refrigerant in the yellow he doesn't do the same for the red. I feel like in a different video he made he valves off red and yellow, opens high side, adds remaining liquid in red then yellow and then disconnects. But maybe here he just wanted a dead-on subcool and didn't add the red?
To do Subcooling you would look at the dial that lines up to pressure on the outer ring. Then follow the needle in to the refrigerant being used. This temp shown on the gauge on the inner ring is your saturated temperature. Then measure the liquid line temp within 3 inches of the port with a digital temp sensor. Take the sat temp minus the actual temp=subcooling. If the subcooling is too high compared to what is stated on the outdoor unit rating plate then it is overcharged. If the actual subcooling is less than the target subcooling then refrigerant must be added. This is use to check the charge of air conditioners and heat pumps that have single and two speed compressors in cooling mode. Here is the subcooling playlist- ua-cam.com/video/qqLwE7Kbyaw/v-deo.html
You would need to use superheat for air conditioners with a piston and subcooling for a unit that has a txv - ua-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojzAUXWWQt9A8juotNkzwYlk.html
Don, I am sorry I didn't see this. You still want to charge only some in at a time just because when you get close to a full charge, the subcooling will change very quickly. That is the only reason to not just let in in fully through the kwik charge. Thanks, Don!
I try not to but in this case if I added that refrigerant too, I would be at 14-15 degrees of subcooling as there is a lot of liquid in the line vs 12 degrees where I wanted to be. Sometimes it is hard to judge when to stop charging and start the disconnect procedure. On this system I could have started at 9 or 10 degrees and then charged the yellow line in and then the red line. It is certainly very easy to charge this red line back in when just checking a charge as you won't be over charging, thanks TurboFlush!
Superheat if it is a piston but typically access ports would need to be installed first, then find and fix the leak, then charge the unit. The total weight procedure is used if all the refrigerant is out of the unit , thanks
We only use superheat, subcooling, total weight method, or other approved manufacturer charging methods for AC units. Superheat and subcooling give you a real glimpse into what is actually happening in the system and we also use these for troubleshooting, thanks!
Hey Devan, there are 26 videos in the superheat playlist- ua-cam.com/video/q-G7FLlzhAg/v-deo.html -- also if you are trying to navigate by playlists check out the playlist selection page, thanks- ua-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
The unit is suppose to be running for at least 19 minutes before checking refrigerant levels. And 10 minutes in between adding refrigerant..... I was told
Hey Armando, if it is a piston then wait 10-15 minutes but a txv doesn't take as long to stop fluctuating so I usually say 5-10 minutes. The longer you wait, the more accurate and precise it will be for sure. The issue is, 10 minutes is excessive between adding only a few ounces in at a time. You will never get done after hours in some cases. When you get closer to the correct subcooling or superheat, that is when you slow down and then yes 5-10 minutes while you are filling out the paperwork is nice at the end just to make sure nothing changes. Thanks Armando!
You could have discharged the high-side red hose into the suction side as well. First detach high-side, then discharge into low-side, then detach low-side. I'm sure you know this; probably just skipped your mind.
The reason I did not do that disconnect procedure was that I didn't anticipate and disconnect from the tank early enough and you don't want to add too much refrigerant into the system or you would be at 16 degrees of subcooling before you know it. You also can't check the subcooling after you do that to see how much more you added into the system, thanks.
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is a link to the Digital Refrigerant Scale used in the video
amzn.to/2b9oXYl
Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos amzn.to/2aBumVI
Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos amzn.to/2aenwTq
Here is a link to the Hilmor 4 port Aluminum Manifold Gauge Set-
amzn.to/2m4QLik
Here is a link to a Dual Readout Temperature Meter with two k type temp sensors- amzn.to/2sQffyB
Here is a link to the Appion core removal and vacuum tool- amzn.to/2t5ogIb
Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.
When you charge an older orifice tube system do you worry about superheat and sub cooling ?
An AC tech told me once that 75 on the low side and 240 on the hi side is spot on but you didn't seem to worry about those numbers at all.🤘🏻👍🏻
*Easy to instal **Fastly.Cool** As described.*
I start a hvac program this august and I've been trying to find videos like yours for the longest time to kind of get my head in the game. I'm so glad I found your stuff. Great info man🤘🏻👍🏻
Thanks a lot Ashton! It is a great career, we are all always learning. Stay hungry my friend and glad to help!
One of, if not the best Tech video I've seen on adding refrigerant to a condenser. Well Done!
Glad it was helpful!
You really should be a teacher, great patience and you want to teach. You do things right and don’t take shortcuts
You really need to teach HVAC/R at a community college somewhere. There is a desperate need for intelligent HVAC techs that can teach.
I presently teach high school and adult night school, thanks Matthew!
Awesome that a high school is teaching HVAC/R
no he doesn't. There's a MORE desperate need for these "intelligent" techs to teach those that don't have the luxury of time for college by teaching HERE. He reaches 10 fold the techs on video then he would in class twice a week for 4 hours.
Well I am glad you guys are enjoying the teaching anyway. I am doing what I can, thanks!
Matthew Stewart you hit the nail right on the head so right....
This is batter the school brother
Thank you very much!
I like the way you charged here compared to how I was taught. I was taught to add liquid to the high side with the system off (into receiver) which doesn't show in real time how the charge is affecting subcool and is more complicated in disconnecting hoses as you have to clear the refrigerant from the high side into the low side.
Thanks John, I do break the vacuum with liquid refrigerant into the liquid line when weighing in a lot of refrigerant often, thanks!
This is gonna save me a fortune during my home remodel Im a hands on diy guy and can do damm near anything once shown
don't let the EPA find out
@@vegaspony What the epa dont know about wont hurt them 😉
good teaching probably the best on video tube
Thanks a lot I KH!
So one thing I cannot find answer to from anywhere. The vapor line we call it auction line which means compressor is sucking in. So how come when you purge from the blue hose on suction line, it doesn’t suck air in? I was always in assumption that the big line is sucking all the time as compressor runs?
Can you explain please.
Good job thanks for helping with us the junior technicians
Thanks a lot Mexico Loco!
Super helpful for me. Thank you.
Thanks Very good video sir
Like all your videos excellent... explanation and illustration, please keep the videos coming learning so much thank you
Thanks Al!
I'm curious, since you tried to purge the blue line while the system was running (suction) and nothing came out, air, wouldn't that indicate what ever air was in the blue line already has been sucked into the system since you did it with the system running? Seems to me the way to do it is to first connect the lines with the system off, purge the blue & red lines of air from the internal pressure leaving the system, and finally open the Freon can and purge the yellow line of air.
Great Video! Best "how to recharge" if you know subcooling and superheat.
Thanks Ant!
Why was there a need to purge the liquid /red line if you're not adding to the high/liquid side? Won't you get an accurate pressure reading regardless of whether that line is purged?
Great video! I really enjoy your teaching style of video's, focusing and explaining each step along the way. Great channel, great tech and a great teacher. Thank you.
Thanks a lot DC! I appreciate it!
Great videos as always 👍🏼💯💯
Thanks Camilo!
Also, at 14:30, is there any chance the air pressure coming from your blue hose is strong enough to push in the schraeder valve?
Great video. Great teacher
Thanks Dean Martin!
What happens if you don't put the little black caps back on? Asking because we had a guy come out to fill the ac and 5 hours later still no cold air. I went out side to see if he forgot something and I found one of those black caps on top of the ac unit
Did you close the valves to the outdoor units
Very helpful videos... Thank you so much
Glad to help Ed Tate!
What if you have a single unit 1 outdoor and 1 indoor? How do you do it? Is it the same?
so in this video the refrigerant is going from the tank and is being pulled into the house toward the evaporator?
Hey Diallo, out of the bottle and into the suction line going into the compressor inlet, thanks
when you install a new a coil to a new condenser how do you clear out the lineset and the evap? do you have a video on that? thanks
Why do I have a Short Cycling Residential A/C? My outside unit is running non-stop. How to fix this unwanted problem?
What caused this to Short Cycle? I purchased a New Thermostat, however, foreign items are useless. Honeywell Home is made in Mexico. Not worth it!
thank's partner I can't wait to view your work!!! i'm @ home now catching up on some ac work, thank you for sharing as well as norcal, jim petinato, powlas joes round table, david jones, fox family heating and air, etc.....
Yes all good people!
GOOD VIDEO..
Thank you
Great video. Thank you!
Glad to help!
Your work is perfect, I wish if I can find tech like yours.
Thanks you very much Abdulwahab!
Thanks again for another learning experience. The metal caps on the top of the lines are new to me ... why do those have to be off when filling?
The only reason they were off was because I just opened those valves after installing the unit. They did not have to be off, thanks
acservicetech • Thank you.
Thank you Sir!! I'm subscribing!!!
Thanks Eyldihyde!
please explain why are adding R410A blended refrigerant to the system with gas already in there.you have to reclaim everything as now you dont the right ratio of the gas blend in there.
Saveena, This is a new install so you don't have enough refrigerant if the system has a long line set. That is why we add refrigerant. I regards to the other issue of a blend, R-410A can be topped off if there is a leak that is fixed. That is not a problem. In the case of R-410A, manufacturer trainings will say it is ok to top off systems as far as the blend is concerned because it is near azeotropic even though they want the refrigerant to come out of the bottle as a liquid to avoid fractionation. Obviously not over and over again. If you are working with other zeotropic refrigerants then more care must be taken when fixing leaks and adding to the charge. Here is some good reading material. Thanks for the question! www.achrnews.com/articles/82752-blends-101-an-introduction-to-refrigerants
on older leaking units if suspected low refrigerant should you check with bubble Leak Detector even before removing caps? and then again after removing caps before attaching gauges? isn't the schrader valve the most prevalent cause of slow to very slow refrigerant leaking?? Should you replace your older valve caps with newer o-ring caps?
Good video !!
Thanks!
Thank you
Glad to help!
hi, does the evaporator saturation temp. go up when you're adding refrigerant into the low side? I see that the high side pressure goes up but what about the low side? does it also go up simultaneously with the high side? thanks.
On systems with a piston the low side will rise but on txv systems the low side will not rise, thanks!
GOOD JOB
Thanks a lot!
I am new at this (and have a lot to learn) and a lot of videos don't cover how to attach the hoses/manifold. When you attach your manifold and purge the lines like you did, isn't there still air in the manifold itself? I was recommended a method that purges the air in the manifold too: Open each valve on the manifold and allow the refrigerant from the system push towards the tank where the fitting is loose on the tank itself. this should leave no air in the manifold and the hoses. Can you think of a problem or pitfall with that method? Thanks ...great videos!
That method works great. That is the same that you would see in the recovery video I just did, thanks. A pitfall could be not knowing exactly when all the air is out because the vapor and liquid are mixing. When you purge a vapor line there is some noise change but you definitely know when you purge a liquid line. But we do what we can, thanks Tony!
Is it super important to have the caps on? Our brand new unit is blowing air but it's not cold. Went out there and the caps won't even thread on - they were just propped on there.
The indoor or outdoor fan could be not running, the compressor could be not running or you may be low on refrigerant. if it is new, they certainly should have caps on them. Refrigerant could be leaking out of the ports if the schrader valves are not seated properly. Any way these are things that may be possibly wrong, thanks!
Ty great video again keep up the great work
Thanks David!
A truly informative site with clear and concise instruction. Id love a copy of the book. Do you have a European version in °C and using barg?
I don't have it converted to Bar and C yet, thanks!!
@@acservicetechchannel no matter. There’s nothing like this available in the UK but the principles are the same regardless. One thing though. You tend to purge lines releasing small amounts of gas but we are taught to vacuum lines negating the need to purge.
So when the unit is so low on 410 a it won’t turn on you would fill from the liquid side. Get it running then charge from the vapor side?
You could try that but the second it turns on, it would suck the vapor pressure back down and shut off. You would need some steady pressure going into the vapor side to keep the pressure switch from tripping or temporarily jump the pressure switch and keep the vapor pressure positive. The reality is that if the unit is that low on refrigerant then you lost likely 90% of the charge because that means you have no liquid left to vaporize inside the unit. If it was a seal that was loose and now you tightened it then ok but if it is a leak, make sure to fix it for multiple reasons. It won't hold very long at all as you need 97% of the actual correct charge to work correctly. You don't want that refrigerant to just leak out into the environment obviously, thanks Peter!
The refrigerant liquid was kept in the hose in the disconnection procedure, is that a good practice?
In this case I did not want to overcharge the system but if you can anticipate how much refrigerant you are going to need then yes add that liquid in. We always do that on pm's but this was weighing quite a bit of refrigerant in, thanks Sheng!
So after evacuation is satisfied on a new AC system and high, low and vacuum knobs are shut off and I need to add the extra 410a which in my case is (18ft x .6) =10.8oz.
Do I after prepping jug on scale:
Open just high side guage with service valves on AC unit still (seated) closed until I read the 10.8oz on scale.
Then shut high side and jug off.
Open service valves on AC unit, turn on power and start up system?
INFO. I have no valve core tools so evacuation in my case will be I guess old school until I can purchase them. So straight hoses from guages to service valves.
In that case then you would attach the r410a bottle upside down to the yellow service hose, purge air to the end of the yellow hose connected to manifold. Then zero the scale and weight liquid refrigerant into the liquid side until you get to the weight desired. If it is a system that you can turn on and check in superheat or subcooling then weigh a little less than needed and do final adjustments while the system is running but I would highly highly recommend getting 3 appion valve core removal tools. I have them linked at amazon.com/shop/acservicetech , Have you looked up the video on vacuuming- "acservicetech full vacuum procedure"?
When weighing, document the total weight of the bottle. I write the original weight in shapie, as well as what I use and when. Keeping both a used total and total weight.
Sounds good! I put the yellow service hose under the plastic case of my scale and then zero the scale out. This way gauge movement does not affect the scale reading, thanks!
What happen if you put a jumper on a heat pump outside on Y1 and Y2? Only Y1 is connected with the thermosthat - furnace
Good Video! Up Grade the Caps next time with Brass Caps!👍🏾
Thanks Clarence!
You're awesome bud
Glad to help Colton!
where i am from, they really don't use scale or even worry about sub cooling and stuff. they just charge the r410a upside down and use the low side gauge to check the psi. is that ok?
Wow, no it is not ok for efficiency or compressor safety. If a system has a fixed orifice, you use the superheat method. Look up "acservicetech superheat or target superheat" for charging videos, thanks
Excellent video.....1 question 410a with TXV same as this video....any difference/concerns if your charging the system on a day when its 70 degrees outside as opposed to a 90 degree day outside... and not in direct sun light
The target subcooling should be listed on the outdoor rating plate and you can check the charge any time it is 70 degrees or higher inside as well as outside, thanks!
I have a brand new set of YJ 410a manifold gauges. In trying to obtain subcooling I connected my hoses to the unit ports; the high side gauge went up to 250 PSI, but the gauge on my low side (Blue) didn't move at all. Along with that, the saturated temp (80 degrees) was below the temp on the high pressure line (82). So not knowing why my gauge wasn't showing pressure and why the temps, I disconnected the lines from the unit. Do you think my gauge is damaged and why can't I get a higher temp on saturated level?
The unit may be undercharged if there is no subcooling, your temp sensor could be off and not calibrated. You could put in 32 degree ice water to check. The blue hose end with the valve core depressor may not be pushing in the schrader valve enough, You also need to zero your gauges out first for your elevation, thanks
This is a new installation right? Why not recover all the refrigerant and then weigh out exactly what is needed and release it back into the system? No guesswork then, right? Or maybe I'm missing something. Why was it low to begin with?
So what would happen if u left the vapor side open instead of putting in a little at a time. And what would happen if put to much of r 22 in there? I'm 20 trying to get my HVAC and need as much knowledge as possible before I take the test
Overcharge for fixed orifice systems will damage the compressor with liquid refrigerant entering it. TXV systems will be less efficient when overcharged. You would damage the compressor if you charged a lot of liquid into the compressor at a time. It is a vapor only compressor, thanks
Hey partner my mom's a/c has a sight glass I see no refrigerant flowing and the middle dot is black??? some time's I see a swoosh of refrigerant gush than the sight glass look's empty????
jimbola77 Why would have a sight glass on a Ac that dot is for moisture in the system that dot should should some color it depends on what type of sight glass part you have usual a label would tell you what color that dot should be .Look above the common how an should be charge is the AC cooling.
Edward HVACR CT no cover partner, it's a Lennox 3 ton r410a?
What determines the refrigerant entering into the unit in a liquid or a vapor state. Are certain refrigerants always entered as a liquid while others have to be introduced as a vapor. Cannot R-22 be put in as a liquid or a vapor, also why are you putting liquid into the suction line???
R410A has to come out of the bottle as a liquid to keep the mix correct. R-22 can come out as liquid or vapor. When the system is vacuumed and you would like to weigh refrigerant in, you can break the vacuum with liquid refrigerant into the liquid line. When the system is running, the liquid refrigerant can get metered into the vapor line slowly to keep the compressor safe. In some of my other videos you will see a vaporizer attached to my vapor port of the manifold gauge set to help vaporize the liquid into a vapor somewhat, before entering into the suction line and into the compressor, thanks
I'm confused, I thought we would charge the system using the high side gauge, not the low side if we we're using the sub cool method?
we use the subcooling method for systems with a txv that are single speed and not microchanel but we still monitor superheat to make sure that the txv is doing its job and to mae sure that the sat temp on the low side is not below 32 degrees, thanks!
Hi, I just installed my first Goodman heat pump, my question is why my succion line is hot? can you help me, could it be the termosthat wiring or is low in refrigerant because the line set is 20' long?
If the vapor line is very hot then it sounds like you are in heat mode. The reversing valve must not be powered. Yes it is likely the thermostat wiring and the B or O terminal, thanks
acservicetech thanks your videos really help,you are a great teacher.
Ruben Gonzalez gjnkmnbb
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Great videos. Keep it up. Can you make a video on how to charge a unit with a variable speed compressor and electronic expansion valves? Especially since most have very vague installation instructions.
Most variable speed units are total weight and lineset length only unfortunately. Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see Albert!
How to program an RBW orbi
You mentioned weighing in the correct amount of liquid and vapour refrigerant per foot of line set. Could you explain the formula you would use to calculate that please .
I state them in this video, thanks Sean!- ua-cam.com/video/_8g6xaCKDqc/v-deo.html
Question: So When doing a recovery do you do that through low pressure superheat? And when charging do you do that through high pressure subcooled ?
So when charging, you are typically taking liquid from the bottom of the bottle at sat state pressure into the low pressure side of the system. When recovering without a recovery machine but the compressor itself, subcooled liquid pressure comes out of the system and into the sat state pressure recovery bottle, thanks Brent!
Hey there, it might be off topic a little, but I wanted to get your thoughts on using a charging cylinder?
I work on refrigerators, and one of the techs said for small freon amounts in Ounces, it’s better to use a cylinder vs. a scale.
I’ve noticed that the scale will change weight a little, not sure if because the yellow hose is moving around, but I don’t want to be fumbling around with scales and messing up charges.
Thanks!
They actually have programmable scales where you purge the air up to the valve on the end of your refrigerant hoses or access port right at the connection to the unit and then zero the scale out. Program your total and the scale will stop the flow once there. I know what you mean, you really need to be very precise and watch what you are doing with scales that don't have a solenoid but will take into consideration hose movement. I just use electronic scales, thanks toneblair!
I have a question.
should I take HVAC class from adults apprenticeship trades school night times class or take HVAC class in college ? what's the same and different ? Thanks you.
College is usually less hands on. I would start by contacting the local technical or vocational high school and see if they off adult classes or adult apprenticeship at night as many usually do. This will usually be your best bang for the buck while giving the best experience. Obviously locations are different but this would be my view, thanks!
So after you disconnect the yellow hose from the cylinder, how do you know when all the refrigent in the hose is gone? Was that just a guess?
He said once you notice your lowside gauge equaling out and not jumping up in pressure anymore is when all the liquid is gone and all that remains is vapor in the hose
Hi, I just love all the videos you are putting up, and thanks to you I'm going in to this occupation because around here there is not many technicians who knows what they are doing.
But I have one question, are you using different gauges for different types of cooling gas, or can you just purge the gauges before use.
Thanks for a superb series of videos, which are better than every school and courses you can attend.
I do use different gauges for the refrigerants but when starting, you will likely not have 3 gauge sets so just purge well and then use them, thanks!
I always check the temperature split at the indoor unit after I charge it up and if it's between 17 and 21 I am happy with it. What is your take on that? Thanks
Yes that is what I do 18-21 delta T, but when you are checking a unit that is dealing with very high humidity, you may not get it on piston systems so you have to rely on just your superheat in those circumstances. I always check it though because it is one of those confirmations when you do see it, thanks David!
acservicetech Yeah right now I am doing install and I have not worked with any units that have pistons. The only units we seem to install are Trane and Rheem and they are TXV systems. Eventually I will transfer to service so the info you gave me will be very helpful. I need to start right down all of this and keeping it in a folder. Haha! Also sometimes I run across units that give me a higher temp split would that be because there is not enough return air flow? Thanks man!
They may be variable speed compressors if the manufacturers say they should have a higher temp split. If you are reading a higher temp split on a single speed compressor then yes it very well may be low air flow. Check the low side to make sure it won't eventually freeze if it stays on, thanks
acservicetech I will look at manual next time I come across variable speed unit. As always thanks for the reply. 👍
Good day, just to say thank you for sharing your expertise. I have only a question to my doubt with regards to subcooling relation to current (Amps) reading in compressor. How much reading need for subcooling that we can consider enough based on experienced. How about the current of compressor it is need to read full load or based on subcooling only. Thank you in advance.
A compressor curve is used on refrigeration but not on air conditioning. The amp draw will go up if the refrigerant cannot reject the heat and the pressure goes up or there is too much subcooling taking up the outdoor coil and the coil has a hard time rejecting the heat, make sure to set the subcooling to the target found on the rating plate or 1 or 2 degrees above the target txv subcooling rating on the outdoor unit, thanks
thank you for share. I have a question did you check superheat after you charged refrigerant to ac unit with subcooling method? I charged refrigerant to my r22 system ac unit with txv with subcooling method last week,my gauges showed my subcooling is at target,but I tried measure my superheat it was too high I got about 35superheat. My lowside gauge got 65 psig saturated temperature about 40 degrees and suction line temperature about 75 degrees. So 75-40=35superheat. Is there something wrong?
It sounds like a liquid line restriction or the txv is not adjusted correctly. Take a temp reading across the filter drier to see if it is blocked. If it is higher than 2-3 degrees then it is clogged. If it is not the filter drier then check the screen and txv. You can also look up"acservicetech liquid line restriction" thanks
AC Service Tech LLC thank you so much
Thankful to you for this UA-cam recording
I hope the camera that’s used in this video too closed and clearing
But I hope see this video again but too closely from everything
Thank you aging
Thank you at494949!
Hi, Did you turn on the compressor during you refill the freon?
This is a new condensor that had refrigerant in it from the factory and we were adding more after the vacuum, while it was running, thanks
When you were adding refrigerant why was the bottle upside down if you are adding it as a vapor? I thought if the bottle is upside down you are adding it as a liquid?
R410a has to come out of the bottle as a liquid to stay mixed because there are actually two refrigerants mixed together in that pink bottle which make up r410a. I charged in slowely with only letting the psi rise a little on the vapor side which allows the liquid to vaporize somewhat before heading to the compressor. I usually use a kwik charge cylinder- amzn.to/2wFHtBW - in almost all the other videos which you see hanging below the vapor gauge in those other videos, thanks and here is the list of playlists- ua-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
It is a liquid when it's upside down. On some units it can possibly change to a vapor before reaching the compressor depending on what the condenser has before the compressor in the line.
you didn't explain why you did put liquid in the vapor side very clearly. It was very confusing to new techs.
Steve Leriger rewatch the video.
Sir are subcooling and superheat applicable to car air-conditioning tnx
they are applicable because they do happen but the rate is not the same since the vehicle ac compressor turns at varying rate depending on the rpm of the engine, thanks!
good information keep up 😎uhh
Thanks Hector!
How much is usually charged for refrigerant ???
Good video. I think you forgot to bleed the red hose into the system.
He did not use that side, thus no need to purge(I believe)
I noticed that too..after he adds the reaming refrigerant in the yellow he doesn't do the same for the red.
I feel like in a different video he made he valves off red and yellow, opens high side, adds remaining liquid in red then yellow and then disconnects.
But maybe here he just wanted a dead-on subcool and didn't add the red?
Mr. Miyagi Yeah. Now that I think about it I think you are right.
Should bottle be upside down or upright?
For R410A the bottle needs to be upside down, thanks!
thanks for sharing ...
Thanks Pei!
can you teach me how to compute subcooling with all these tools and equipments
thanks
To do Subcooling you would look at the dial that lines up to pressure on the outer ring. Then follow the needle in to the refrigerant being used. This temp shown on the gauge on the inner ring is your saturated temperature. Then measure the liquid line temp within 3 inches of the port with a digital temp sensor. Take the sat temp minus the actual temp=subcooling. If the subcooling is too high compared to what is stated on the outdoor unit rating plate then it is overcharged. If the actual subcooling is less than the target subcooling then refrigerant must be added. This is use to check the charge of air conditioners and heat pumps that have single and two speed compressors in cooling mode. Here is the subcooling playlist- ua-cam.com/video/qqLwE7Kbyaw/v-deo.html
how I know , the system full of charge R22 and need to be stop ?
You would need to use superheat for air conditioners with a piston and subcooling for a unit that has a txv - ua-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojzAUXWWQt9A8juotNkzwYlk.html
Nice procedure, Craig. Your quick-charge was probably taken (borrowed) by a night school student! 😂😂😂
Yeah right! No I knew where it was, just not with me, thanks Jack!
acservicetech with the kwik charge device do you open it up and let it do its thing until you reach the target subcooling
Don, I am sorry I didn't see this. You still want to charge only some in at a time just because when you get close to a full charge, the subcooling will change very quickly. That is the only reason to not just let in in fully through the kwik charge. Thanks, Don!
Where is your filter dryer? What are you charging per pound?
I always install the filter drier in front of the evap coil. The refrigerant was included in the quote to do the change out, thanks
Thank you
Awesome video, thank you. Do you have a video showing how to apply Easy Seal?
At this time, I do not, thanks!
you leave the pressure in the gauges?
I try not to but in this case if I added that refrigerant too, I would be at 14-15 degrees of subcooling as there is a lot of liquid in the line vs 12 degrees where I wanted to be. Sometimes it is hard to judge when to stop charging and start the disconnect procedure. On this system I could have started at 9 or 10 degrees and then charged the yellow line in and then the red line. It is certainly very easy to charge this red line back in when just checking a charge as you won't be over charging, thanks TurboFlush!
Hi! How can you do this without the digital thermometer?
You definitely need an accurate fast changing temp sensor, thanks.
How do you know how much refrigeration to add to a Rv ac
Help??
Superheat if it is a piston but typically access ports would need to be installed first, then find and fix the leak, then charge the unit. The total weight procedure is used if all the refrigerant is out of the unit , thanks
What about adding refrigerant by the amp draw
We only use superheat, subcooling, total weight method, or other approved manufacturer charging methods for AC units. Superheat and subcooling give you a real glimpse into what is actually happening in the system and we also use these for troubleshooting, thanks!
been using
How to Store Freon in Inverter Conditioners
How come you never seem to check SuperHeatCalc as well, and just sub cooking? Goes against everything I’ve ever been taught.
Hey Devan, there are 26 videos in the superheat playlist- ua-cam.com/video/q-G7FLlzhAg/v-deo.html -- also if you are trying to navigate by playlists check out the playlist selection page, thanks- ua-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
You should start Webner program
Thanks Pete. There are a lot of possibilities, the problem is always time and trying to be a good husband and father, thanks a lot for your comments!
Will charging with a vaporizer increase the speed of charging?
Not necessarily but you don't have to be so careful with the low side handle as much and it will also keep the compressor safe.
I used 45 feet of line set how many pounds do i need ?
Hey search this video. In it I give weights for refrigerants, thanks- "acservicetech charging winter"
Is there a difference in quality of 410a refrigerant purchased from Amazon as manufacturer ICELONG.US ?
This Icelong R410a should be the exact same thing- amzn.to/2DYK7Ws -- thanks ppp journeyonabike!
The unit is suppose to be running for at least 19 minutes before checking refrigerant levels. And 10 minutes in between adding refrigerant..... I was told
Hey Armando, if it is a piston then wait 10-15 minutes but a txv doesn't take as long to stop fluctuating so I usually say 5-10 minutes. The longer you wait, the more accurate and precise it will be for sure. The issue is, 10 minutes is excessive between adding only a few ounces in at a time. You will never get done after hours in some cases. When you get closer to the correct subcooling or superheat, that is when you slow down and then yes 5-10 minutes while you are filling out the paperwork is nice at the end just to make sure nothing changes. Thanks Armando!
You could have discharged the high-side red hose into the suction side as well.
First detach high-side, then discharge into low-side, then detach low-side.
I'm sure you know this; probably just skipped your mind.
You are right anyways 12 deg subcooling will take care of that as mentioned in video. Correct me if i am wrong.
The reason I did not do that disconnect procedure was that I didn't anticipate and disconnect from the tank early enough and you don't want to add too much refrigerant into the system or you would be at 16 degrees of subcooling before you know it. You also can't check the subcooling after you do that to see how much more you added into the system, thanks.
That is correct Ravi T!
what happens to the refer in the red hose
It is in a condensed (subcooled) liquid form. Thus a lot more goes to waste as opposed to if it was in a vapour form.
hi
Thanks Rohail!