Great job Pete looks awesome. The board bowed because of the moisture in the plaster of Paris,what I've done in the past is small bits at a time. It helps eliminate the bowing but obviously takes longer 👍👍👍
Hey Nathan, that's going to be the Part 4, I've got the stuff ready but, working my way around the track - Part 3 next and then, expander foam time for the first time - I can't wait as it look like hilarious fun!
That's the one Shane, someone gave me a great tip buddy. I used PVA to prime the wood, they said to use an oil based undercoat as it'll be slightly more robust as a primer
Thanks Harry, hopefully it made it look pretty straight forward. My problem is, I get maybe 10-20 mins each time to work on it so, it's taken about three months to do that 🤣🤣🤣.
At the moment I think I'll adding one of those after the summer, I've got a couple of cash-heavy months ahead of me and I've famously got, no cash! haha. I'm defo getting one Daz, it's not if, it's when bro!
From you Dick, that's amazing - thank you mate, I think with the exception of a 'chat' around how I did the wood track, this is the first 'in-detail' step by step guide I've created, it's been fun and I'm upping my game on the next video 💯
Wow Pete your amazing that looks fantastic gee I have really met some talented people on UA-cam I’ll introduce you to them one day 😂😂no you are one of them thanks mate great ideas 🤟🤟
Hahahaha that made me laugh ledge, we're spoilt with Boone, Shane, Dick, SlotR and on doing exceptional work, I'm pleased people enjoyed it. Speak soon my friend, hope you're enjoying the new temporary role
Good start there, Pete. Love the use of sunflower seeds for stones, that isn't something I've ever tried, so I've learned something from you on this one! I think the catch fence is a great idea, especially if you pair it with some armco barrier at the bottom to make it more rigid to help protect the spectators. I'd actually recommend catch fencing on corners for this too, if it won't interfere with you being able to marshal the cars, as all of the spectator area is surrounded by high risk areas of track where debris could be launched into the spectator area - I don't think on a modern race track you'd see this area without catch fencing on all sides - on a historic circuit, you wouldn't see that catch fencing at all, so it sort of depends on how modern you're wanting your track to look. I'm sorry for the essay here mate, but I'm hoping that by providing some of my knowledge and experience with miniature scenery, you and other viewers can get some ideas for scenery work. For your next experiment for rural scenery, consider giving Sculptamold a try, it's got qualities similar to paper mache, clay, and plaster of paris, and is quite fun to work with, in my opinion. If you want to build up height, such as hills, I've found that scrunched up tin foil works well under Sculptamold, because you can shape it how you want it pretty easily. I've had some luck in keeping things tidy while working with stuff of this consistency by putting it in a zip lock bag, and snipping one of the corners off, to use the bag as something like a piping bag like you'd use for cake decoration. Helps keep the stuff well contained while you work on the stuff you've already put onto your base. For painting rockwork, I've found it works better to lay a paler basecoat down, and then use a sponge or a sponge brush to apply very thinned down acrylic, or watercolor, paint onto it in blotches, coming back over those areas with other colors while it's still wet, which gives you good variation in color. After that, start putting your paler colors back on top with drybrushing to pull out the highlight details. Go back over it when dry with extremely runny paint, about the same consistency as skimmed milk, in dark shadowy colors - get your color wheel out and choose the opposite color to where your main rock color is, in a really dark shade. Black looks really jarring for shadows unless you want extremely dark shadows, so using a dark color opposite to your main color can give you really effective shadows that don't look flat. For example, if your rocks are orange toned, your shadows should be midnight blue and darker, but still blue. If your rocks are blue toned, your shadows will be in extremely dark brown colors. Before that layer of wash is dry, wipe and dab it off the high areas, leaving it in the deep recesses, and it will give you some depth to the shadowy areas. If you really want to work with your airbrush and get it to do the hard work for you, try looking up zenithal highlighting. Once you've got your zenithal highlighting done, you can come back in with light layers of color to build it up - don't go too heavy, or you lose the benefits of your zenithal highlights. I suggest having a play with some cheap etch-primed plastic soldiers for practicing your zenithal shading work and coloring, it won't cost you a fortune that way. With grass flocking, don't forget you can always go back over the flocking with some airbrushing to give yourself even more tonal variation in your grass areas - where grass is really long, it will be a different color to shorter grass. Longer grass is typically darker green than shorter grass. In a drought, or in a dry area, the tops of your long grass, and the shorter grass, will turn golden, and in long grass areas, you'll have green hiding away at the bottom of the stems - this works best with static grass applied with a static grass applicator instead of foam ground cover or using static grass without an applicator, and I suggest using a green static grass with an applicator, then zenithal painting in your golden colors on top, because it will give you a good approximation of how dry tall grass looks for very little effort. I'd also really recommend looking into how to paint with dry chalk pastel dust, it's great for doing pathways worn into natural ground - you can seal it with old fashioned hairspray with lots of lacquer if you fancy going inexpensive, or with a purpose made pastel or chalk sealing spray if you want to be more pricey. Both work about the same, in my experience, though the purpose made stuff is usually less prone to yellowing as a project ages. Fun sidenote to share with everyone that I found out by mistake early in my model making hobby - coating static grass in superglue, and then misting it with water, makes it set nearly instantly with a frosty finish that looks like frosty grass, great for a winter look!
Hahahaha that cracked me up mate, I'm very time poor so, I grab maybe 10mins here or 20 mins there so, I actually started this video in February and it's taken this long to create. That being said, I keep going places and those videos jump the que per say, the next video (Part-3) will all be in shorts and t-shirts (from the merch store of course - sorry, shameless plug)
All good this end Marty, pottering about you know, nothing major just playing slot cars and scheming over how to get more of the blighters 😂😂. Hope you're keeping well to ledge?
Hey bud, thanks for the nice comment. If you go back a few videos, you'll see the part one video, in that I explain how to do what you're asking with the temptating and cutting 👍🏻
Nice job. Just brought an airbrush but not had much chance to use it. Think it’s a summer holidays job. What paint do you use. We got some off Amazon in school and tried them on a car but rubbed off like a powered when it dried is spirit based paint better.
Great job Pete looks awesome. The board bowed because of the moisture in the plaster of Paris,what I've done in the past is small bits at a time. It helps eliminate the bowing but obviously takes longer 👍👍👍
Yep, and that's even after priming it, I like it, it's flexible 🤣🤣🤣
Looks good. Love that you put a "desire path" in.
Cheers Crib', nice one 👌🏻💯🔥🔥
Looks good Pete, just get stuck in, if it goes wrong you learn 👍 surprising what a small section does for the rest of the layout, it brings it to life
💯 matey, I was surprised that such a small area made such a difference, I'm now itching to do more! hahaha
Looking good and great sharing of techniques. When you use expanding foam you'll love it.
Hey Nathan, that's going to be the Part 4, I've got the stuff ready but, working my way around the track - Part 3 next and then, expander foam time for the first time - I can't wait as it look like hilarious fun!
Well done mate, with that section that has bowed. Just stick a couple of pieces of foam or something under the track to raise it up to your scenery.
Nice! Love the well worn path effect 🙌 Found a great big bag of plaster among my old model railway stash and might put it to good use. 😎👍🏁
That's the one Shane, someone gave me a great tip buddy. I used PVA to prime the wood, they said to use an oil based undercoat as it'll be slightly more robust as a primer
Really great work Pete 👍very impressive. That tower fits in perfectly 👌
Thanks Harry, hopefully it made it look pretty straight forward. My problem is, I get maybe 10-20 mins each time to work on it so, it's taken about three months to do that 🤣🤣🤣.
@trackfanstv ohh wow ..OK...its edited to look like a couple of days so ,top marks for editing skills too 🤗
@@SCALE_SLOTCARS_AND_RC Cheers Harry, I did laugh because someone commented that I'm wearing a ski jacket in June! hahaha
Well done - very nice!
Great job brother!!!!!
Cheers pal OIDAAAAAAAAAAAaa
Good stuff Pete.
Cheers pal, most appreciated
This is right up my street, great work Pete really enjoyed it!!
Cheers bud, it was good fun 💯🔥
I nice Rotating Billboard would look nice in that space
I agree ❤
At the moment I think I'll adding one of those after the summer, I've got a couple of cash-heavy months ahead of me and I've famously got, no cash! haha. I'm defo getting one Daz, it's not if, it's when bro!
Nice job🤜
Nice Pete🎉
Cheers Ted, it was good fun making it - weird not being super-hyper in a video hahaha. Hope you're well over there my friend?
Look at you go! We have a new scenery guru! Great job mate, I have so much more detail work to do its daunting. Great vid mate!👍🏻
From you Dick, that's amazing - thank you mate, I think with the exception of a 'chat' around how I did the wood track, this is the first 'in-detail' step by step guide I've created, it's been fun and I'm upping my game on the next video 💯
Nice work mate
Wow Pete your amazing that looks fantastic gee I have really met some talented people on UA-cam I’ll introduce you to them one day 😂😂no you are one of them thanks mate great ideas 🤟🤟
Hahahaha that made me laugh ledge, we're spoilt with Boone, Shane, Dick, SlotR and on doing exceptional work, I'm pleased people enjoyed it. Speak soon my friend, hope you're enjoying the new temporary role
Good start there, Pete. Love the use of sunflower seeds for stones, that isn't something I've ever tried, so I've learned something from you on this one! I think the catch fence is a great idea, especially if you pair it with some armco barrier at the bottom to make it more rigid to help protect the spectators. I'd actually recommend catch fencing on corners for this too, if it won't interfere with you being able to marshal the cars, as all of the spectator area is surrounded by high risk areas of track where debris could be launched into the spectator area - I don't think on a modern race track you'd see this area without catch fencing on all sides - on a historic circuit, you wouldn't see that catch fencing at all, so it sort of depends on how modern you're wanting your track to look.
I'm sorry for the essay here mate, but I'm hoping that by providing some of my knowledge and experience with miniature scenery, you and other viewers can get some ideas for scenery work.
For your next experiment for rural scenery, consider giving Sculptamold a try, it's got qualities similar to paper mache, clay, and plaster of paris, and is quite fun to work with, in my opinion. If you want to build up height, such as hills, I've found that scrunched up tin foil works well under Sculptamold, because you can shape it how you want it pretty easily. I've had some luck in keeping things tidy while working with stuff of this consistency by putting it in a zip lock bag, and snipping one of the corners off, to use the bag as something like a piping bag like you'd use for cake decoration. Helps keep the stuff well contained while you work on the stuff you've already put onto your base.
For painting rockwork, I've found it works better to lay a paler basecoat down, and then use a sponge or a sponge brush to apply very thinned down acrylic, or watercolor, paint onto it in blotches, coming back over those areas with other colors while it's still wet, which gives you good variation in color. After that, start putting your paler colors back on top with drybrushing to pull out the highlight details. Go back over it when dry with extremely runny paint, about the same consistency as skimmed milk, in dark shadowy colors - get your color wheel out and choose the opposite color to where your main rock color is, in a really dark shade. Black looks really jarring for shadows unless you want extremely dark shadows, so using a dark color opposite to your main color can give you really effective shadows that don't look flat. For example, if your rocks are orange toned, your shadows should be midnight blue and darker, but still blue. If your rocks are blue toned, your shadows will be in extremely dark brown colors. Before that layer of wash is dry, wipe and dab it off the high areas, leaving it in the deep recesses, and it will give you some depth to the shadowy areas.
If you really want to work with your airbrush and get it to do the hard work for you, try looking up zenithal highlighting. Once you've got your zenithal highlighting done, you can come back in with light layers of color to build it up - don't go too heavy, or you lose the benefits of your zenithal highlights. I suggest having a play with some cheap etch-primed plastic soldiers for practicing your zenithal shading work and coloring, it won't cost you a fortune that way.
With grass flocking, don't forget you can always go back over the flocking with some airbrushing to give yourself even more tonal variation in your grass areas - where grass is really long, it will be a different color to shorter grass. Longer grass is typically darker green than shorter grass. In a drought, or in a dry area, the tops of your long grass, and the shorter grass, will turn golden, and in long grass areas, you'll have green hiding away at the bottom of the stems - this works best with static grass applied with a static grass applicator instead of foam ground cover or using static grass without an applicator, and I suggest using a green static grass with an applicator, then zenithal painting in your golden colors on top, because it will give you a good approximation of how dry tall grass looks for very little effort.
I'd also really recommend looking into how to paint with dry chalk pastel dust, it's great for doing pathways worn into natural ground - you can seal it with old fashioned hairspray with lots of lacquer if you fancy going inexpensive, or with a purpose made pastel or chalk sealing spray if you want to be more pricey. Both work about the same, in my experience, though the purpose made stuff is usually less prone to yellowing as a project ages.
Fun sidenote to share with everyone that I found out by mistake early in my model making hobby - coating static grass in superglue, and then misting it with water, makes it set nearly instantly with a frosty finish that looks like frosty grass, great for a winter look!
Wow, that's a comment! Thank you so much Kidar, most appreciated and, I'll be trying some of this stuff out on the next section 💯🔥🔥🔥
Geez Pete, it's June, you had a ski jacket on!
Hahahaha that cracked me up mate, I'm very time poor so, I grab maybe 10mins here or 20 mins there so, I actually started this video in February and it's taken this long to create. That being said, I keep going places and those videos jump the que per say, the next video (Part-3) will all be in shorts and t-shirts (from the merch store of course - sorry, shameless plug)
@@trackfanstv Ok, now i get it, funny tho!
Hey Pete! How are you enjoying the Policar track? Hope you are doing well, bro!
All good this end Marty, pottering about you know, nothing major just playing slot cars and scheming over how to get more of the blighters 😂😂. Hope you're keeping well to ledge?
Amazing work. Can anyone tell me the best way to cut my scenery base to match the space on track where it's going(if that makes sense)
Hey bud, thanks for the nice comment. If you go back a few videos, you'll see the part one video, in that I explain how to do what you're asking with the temptating and cutting 👍🏻
@trackfanstv thanks 4 reply. Again, great channel and content👍👍
Nice job. Just brought an airbrush but not had much chance to use it. Think it’s a summer holidays job. What paint do you use. We got some off Amazon in school and tried them on a car but rubbed off like a powered when it dried is spirit based paint better.
I'll email you ledge 😉