I know this is a couple years old but wanted to share the following information: The Performer RPM manifold was tested extensively by Jim Hand (one of the best Pontiac builders/testers around) His findings are published in the Book by SA Design "How to Build Max Performance V-8's" Chapter 5 page 69 & 70. He shows how only removing the rear (or secondaries) section/area, improves top end Power and flow, while still maintaining low speed throttle response..... and the forward primary/section area of the primary plenum divider is left in tact. The way the "Crosswind manifold secondary plenum" is designed in this area is correct/best .... although it needs smoothing/blending on the sharp edges. The best Street/Strip manifold for a large cubic inch Pontiac appears to be The Edelbrock RPM Performer with the Secondary Section (only), of the Plenum removed and blended I like what you did here to clean it up and it looks impressive. also looks like a lot of work....However it appears that you cut down the entire length of the plenum divider, it's really best to only lower the rear/secondary section/area of the plenum divider by about 1/2 inch in depth and blend out sharp edges.
Late reply i know. I still have that intake. the original plan was to radius and smooth the top of the plenum divider while running a spacer, then the next thing was to put it on a different car but with hood clearance i wont have the spacer so i will be doing a 1/2 notch in the divider. Unless i go efi on it then i will just run a single plane
@@EfurdGarage I have the E Performer RPM on my 461 Pontiac in my 68 LeMans with a1977 TA shaker. It will fit the hood clearance....but you can't fit any more than a 3/8 thick thermal spacer, and you must use a drop base air cleaner
Now you also only have the clamping force of one bolt on each side of the water cross over insted of the combined clamping force of the entire manifold. And yes that can make a difference. The smaller surface area of your cross over now can move independently a great amount more than it could have before and can certainly cause it too leak.
When you cut the water crossover don't cut too much off so the single bolt on each side has enough material left to seal to the head. Separating the crossover helps in port alignment especially when gasket matching, and allows changing intakes without losing coolant. Its an old trick and still done by alot of pontiac people to this day
Thanks, i dont know why they add so much extra aluminum but im sure its just easier and quicker for them. I bet with a little shaving of letters and some paint it would almost past some as factory
Nice job.. I have always seen the separation of the water intake runner and I will be doing this to my 455 build..plus I like the open space between the runners thanks for sharing you made it look easy.. now I have the confidence to Tech with myself
Trans Am 455 thanks. I'm not sure why edelbrock has the extra aluminum in it. Looks more like my stock 68 intake without the extra aluminum. I did get a wild hair and polished it up for a video. Then I decided to weigh it, which apperntly after all that it was 3lbs lighter lol
Trans Am 455 it should provide the same benefits as the rpm does for Chevy. The dirt track guys will do that to a stock intake since they are staying up high in the rpms, I believe they wat this is notched is to keep the front barrels on a dual plane while giving a slight single plane to the rear, I unfortunately don't have a dyno for numbers and I went this route because I won't be able to run a spacer, it hasn't been put on a motor yet. But when it does u less I buy another intake i won't have a before and after
Trans Am 455 thanks, and I forget to mention the part for the vaccum to the breaks, I did that to try and help the vaccum there since alot of stock intakes had the vaccum channel to help. I'm thinking of getting another intake and doing side by side test once the car is done
Oh my! I was having so much trouble watching you do this. Help yourself out. Get yourself a stick of cutting wax. Apply it to all of your cutting and sanding materials. Crank up the tool and rub the wax onto the disc, belt and especially that death wheel. This will speed up your sanding work and safety by five ten times. I've never tried seperating the water crossover. Didnt change intakes much unless the motor was out of the car. Your work looks good!
I was thinking about maybe doing something similar to my performer, but it has the endurashine coating. Which comes apart at the exhaust crossover. And btw, i blocked the crossover off on my 461 stroker. It was nothing but fuel boiling trouble for me. I run great no matter how cold, because aluminum transfers heat so well anyway.
yea that endurshine coating is kinda bad about that. also it is bad about holding heat since if i remember its about 4 layers of powder coat, cant tell you how many Friends i have had that had issues with the endurashine, peeling, flaking, or causing fuel boiling issues. I had one that stained from a little gas from the fitting. if i do anything with the crossover on this one it would be a restrictor plate , since i plan on using this on a daily driver.
nice job .cutting the crossover off even on a cast iron intake only takes a few minutes with a hack saw. mine never leaked at the heads with the seperate crossover. oh use studs on the thermostat less likely to have thread problems on the aluminum
Thanks, i have had alot of aluminum intakes over the years. Only time i have thread issues with a thermostat is the cheap china ones, and used ones someone has messed up. But the stud idea is a good one regardless.
The air file i use makes quick work of cutting aluminum and notching the center divider. They have several different end attachments that make things so easy. The only down side is the price of the ones i have.
Thanks, yea the cross over separation is a way to help get the crossover to seal to the head ports and front water pump better. or alot faster way to change out intakes if you want as well
no not really, it flows about the same as the late 60s stock intakes and is almost a copy of them, just like the sbc rpm is almost an exact copy of the late 60s factory high performance aluminum intake.
yea its not for everyone but it is also supposed to allow the runners and water to line up properly. But for some just one piece works. although i do like it more open though with all the aluminum cut out like my factory H.O. intake is
When you install the non egr edelbrock pontiac torker II intake manifold on the 66 pontiac 389, you do not need to block off plates just use the edelbrock gasket with the solid piece right? To plug it via intake gasket and non egr manifold right?
When installed on 1972 and up cylinder heads, intake gasket FEL-MS90205 or MRG-5848 is required to seal exhaust crossover. as ling as you have gaskets for 65-71 your good, But on yours basically, all it will affect is the heat crossover with the solid you basically will not have a heat cross over so you will lose some benefits but have some gains elsewhere. the little plates allow you to either restrict or eliminate the crossover.
Terry Efurd The crossovers is for the emission pump to reintroduce the exhaust back into the intake right? Will it mess up the vacuum somehow if I use those solid cutouts from the gasket kit to block off said crossovers?
it will not mess up the vacuum, crossover regardless of egr or non egr is for several reasons. 1 it puts some heat on the intake plenum so it warms up easier, 2 will run better in colder weather, 3 help atomize fuel, . now with a non egr intake you are getting all that now a egr intake with the egr connected will reintroduce it but only of you have the egr device and intake. racers block off the crossover so they get a cooler air/fuel charge. but depending on what your doing you may want to look at either running open crossover, restricted or closed, just depends on what your doing street, street/strip, full race, efi or carb, and also where you live can play a roll in it
The Mr Gasket 502G intake gasket set comes with the block off plates that can be left blocked or drilled open. Put the plates on the intake manifold side of the gaskets (on the top), not the head side.
joseph lacy to me it allows the bolts to line up easier on the head bolts. As well as the front port for the water pump. And the rest of the intake becomes easily removed to change intakes without losing coolant as long you have another cut. Plus after all my mods it lost another 3lbs of weight
Efurd Garage Also it can aid in cooler intake charge as the initial gas air mix is thermally (for a bit ) colder than a stock intake. Old tricks and a few hours in the shop always pay off. Old school racers did this packed then intake with ice bags just before a 1/4 strip trip, this and a old gas cooler box packed with dry ice. Good times 😎
Also allows the intake runners to stay more inline with the intake runners in the head....with a pontiac you have to pull the intake forward to seal against the cross over of the timing chain cover which can cause turbulence between intake and head ports......with this you can tightin the water cross over and allow the runners between the intake and heads to stay more center....still cant bring myself to do this with my tri power even tho it does have its advantages
you was doing just great w/the electric side grinder, then, and I do not know why, you changed to that weak excuse... air driven, always binding tool. I learned to stay w/the electric cause it works harder and doesn't bind. BullyBilly
Certain spots the disc on the electrical grinder was to close for comfort to the runners because of the size. Also the electric is at times bad at jerking and grabbing so the small air can start spots and get into tight areas better.
Of course, but after working with stainless, mild steel, and aluminum for over 13yrs, you find out that carbine bits are not always the answer and are honestly outdated. There are other tools out there that work well and more controllable, better reach, leave a better texture, and more forgiving then carbine bits
@@EfurdGarage I have building engines for over 40 years. Been porting aluminum heads almost as long. Buck up dude, Carbide cutters made for aluminum have been around longer than I. Try it - you'll like it.
i have used carbide cutters, my first five years of working with metals i never had a dyna file, we used rocks, carbide, cartridge rolls, cone points, spiral points, etc. once i got the dynafile i was sold, it was a great reach, tons of attachments that change the end shape of the wheel so you can really get any radius you want making it extremely versatile , many different belts from sand to felt so you can go as rough or as smooth as you need. Now there are times carbide still work better, but just because they have been around forever dosnt mean there is not anything out there that can make it easier. There are surfaces i can manipulate by using the dynafile that is easier and faster then trying to do it with a carbide. in my experience i can take a dynafile and leave an area in much better shape, smoother and faster with one belt alone then using a carbide followed by sandpaper rolls. not to mention i can throw a felt belt on to even make the area even smoother and just be a few steps away from a polished finish. The only real downside to the dyna file is the price. not trying to sell it im just really explaining why i use it, of course using a carbide bit for so long, you can get so use to it and do things with it i understand that.
@@EfurdGarage I totally understand the worth of a dyna file. I have one - I am also well aware of going through a bunch of belts. I just see no replacement for aluminum carbide burrs when hogging out large areas. I also have to say thank you for your reply.
@@ShogMan no problem. I see your point on the belts as we go through tons at work. As far as doing intakes and heads I don't do it enough to worry about belts. But I can say there are several belts that are better at aluminum then others. But I do understand your point on larger areas. But I think the big thing for me is how I have learnt easily shape things such such as rounding or knife edge in. And still it's speed some belts take it out so fast it can be bad which wouldn't be good for some people. Also I wouldn't recommend someone to just go for the dynafile right off the bat without having used it before
it will receive a port match along with the 96 heads, its a 1970 400 and heads from a gto. should be about 36-370 hp 445 ftlbs. Its going into my el tempest project as a daily driver. i am aiming for about 420hp and 500ftlbs . give or take, but the car will weigh in the low 3000 range. just swapping the intake, cam, adding headers and hei. will either have a 750 or 800 qjet. May do a efi set up on it but havnt made up my mind on that one yet
Efurd Garage very cool ! I have a 70 formula 400 with #13 heads. Has been hei converted. Heads and manifold are untouched atm. All number matching but keen to do something like what you're doing. Also love my qjet750 which i've rebuilt and tuning
i run a qjet on almost everything. that sounds like an awsome car. my dad had one when i was young i loved it. my 64 gto is getting a transplant do to it not being numbers matching. im pulling the 400 h.o from my 68 gto since its numbers matching and putting it in the 64 because of the plans i have for the 68. the 400 in the 64 will look original since most people dont know that it should have a carter afb if you had the 4 barrel, not a qjet, but i will be running a ram air cam and repo factory headers. 68 is going pro street since i got it before the 64, and the 64 was my dads we were building before he passed so it dosnt hardly get driven and rarely hotrodded, so the numbers matching motor for the 68 will be safe if i ever want to go back all orginal lol
Some people like it some dont. Im so used to seeing the cheap Chinese intakes many with no logo that i prefer to keep the name brand.... Even if it is edelbrock 😆
Wow, no leather gloves, no guard on grinder and he just let the intake sit there. Did not hold it down. I have seen some horrible injuries with cut off wheels. BTW, he cut down the divider too much for performance.
No it may look like alot but the divider was only cut down an 1/8". Nope no gloves seen to many guys with the gloves we were given have to have the wound opened up and bits of Kevlar glove pulled out. yep no guard several of the disc and attachments we run are to big for the guard. And the guard would have gotten in the way on some of those spots. over 16yrs in the metal fabrication field, seen my share of incidents as well. I get it it does look scary not having a clamp to hold it. if i could have used a different table then i would have had places to clamp it.
No i did not. Divider is still there just got rounded over on the top since i was goinig to run an open spacer on top. Now that it is going on an engine with hood clearance issues. No soacer so the divider is getting notched under the back barrels about 1/2" which still does not kill dual plane function but will balance at top end. Which is the way most high performance dual plans are made. Edelbrock just never updated their pontiac line up
@@blainesnider9089 its a pontiac they make alot of low end so it won't hurt it one bit unless its built wrong. 1 have one on my stock 350 chevy it didnt lose any low end. What i did is not going to hurt anything. If you think about it and run the proper heat insulator gasket that is 1/4" thick i run the open designs, you have a 1/4" gap anyway and no one ever lost low end from that. Now if i took that divider down all the way across 1/2" or more yea it would. But in reality most of the time while drivinf your over 1200 rpm. And if you going for high performance you should have a stall so really you dont worry about slight loss at under 1500. And if your spinning your tires down low you could also afford to loose some low end
I know this is a couple years old but wanted to share the following information: The Performer RPM manifold was tested extensively by Jim Hand (one of the best Pontiac builders/testers around) His findings are published in the Book by SA Design "How to Build Max Performance V-8's" Chapter 5 page 69 & 70. He shows how only removing the rear (or secondaries) section/area, improves top end Power and flow, while still maintaining low speed throttle response..... and the forward primary/section area of the primary plenum divider is left in tact. The way the "Crosswind manifold secondary plenum" is designed in this area is correct/best .... although it needs smoothing/blending on the sharp edges.
The best Street/Strip manifold for a large cubic inch Pontiac appears to be The Edelbrock RPM Performer with the Secondary Section (only), of the Plenum removed and blended
I like what you did here to clean it up and it looks impressive. also looks like a lot of work....However it appears that you cut down the entire length of the plenum divider, it's really best to only lower the rear/secondary section/area of the plenum divider by about 1/2 inch in depth and blend out sharp edges.
How about making a hole or notch that could be easily filled or plugged ??
You could then test different amounts of crossover.
Late reply i know. I still have that intake. the original plan was to radius and smooth the top of the plenum divider while running a spacer, then the next thing was to put it on a different car but with hood clearance i wont have the spacer so i will be doing a 1/2 notch in the divider. Unless i go efi on it then i will just run a single plane
Yes that is exactly what Jim Hand did... He discusses and documents his testing/results in the book I refer too above.
@@EfurdGarage I have the E Performer RPM on my 461 Pontiac in my 68 LeMans with a1977 TA shaker. It will fit the hood clearance....but you can't fit any more than a 3/8 thick thermal spacer, and you must use a drop base air cleaner
@@TIMEtoRIDE900 Yes that is exactly what Jim Hand did... He discusses and documents his testing/results in the book I refer too above.
Now you also only have the clamping force of one bolt on each side of the water cross over insted of the combined clamping force of the entire manifold. And yes that can make a difference. The smaller surface area of your cross over now can move independently a great amount more than it could have before and can certainly cause it too leak.
When you cut the water crossover don't cut too much off so the single bolt on each side has enough material left to seal to the head. Separating the crossover helps in port alignment especially when gasket
matching, and allows changing intakes without losing coolant. Its an old trick and still done by alot of pontiac people to this day
Thats pretty Trick! I like the Open intake effect of the Original design and also the separation of the cooling system. Nice Job.
Thanks, i dont know why they add so much extra aluminum but im sure its just easier and quicker for them. I bet with a little shaving of letters and some paint it would almost past some as factory
Did mine years back to cool fuel charge. Also took out all of the exhaust crossover, made plate for blocking head ports. No leaks works great
That also made it lighter too.
That's pretty impressive that you can get such a big grinder in such a small area.
unfortunately been using these tools for years lol
Nice job.. I have always seen the separation of the water intake runner and I will be doing this to my 455 build..plus I like the open space between the runners thanks for sharing you made it look easy.. now I have the confidence to Tech with myself
Trans Am 455 thanks. I'm not sure why edelbrock has the extra aluminum in it. Looks more like my stock 68 intake without the extra aluminum. I did get a wild hair and polished it up for a video. Then I decided to weigh it, which apperntly after all that it was 3lbs lighter lol
Efurd Garage I'm curious to know how did the modification to the plenum for the carburetor work out for you did it have better breathing capability
Trans Am 455 it should provide the same benefits as the rpm does for Chevy. The dirt track guys will do that to a stock intake since they are staying up high in the rpms, I believe they wat this is notched is to keep the front barrels on a dual plane while giving a slight single plane to the rear, I unfortunately don't have a dyno for numbers and I went this route because I won't be able to run a spacer, it hasn't been put on a motor yet. But when it does u less I buy another intake i won't have a before and after
Efurd Garage right on man thk u for yr response!! I'll keep on checking yr channel
Trans Am 455 thanks, and I forget to mention the part for the vaccum to the breaks, I did that to try and help the vaccum there since alot of stock intakes had the vaccum channel to help. I'm thinking of getting another intake and doing side by side test once the car is done
Not gonna lie cringed really hard watching this but it turned out very nice. Well done 🤘
i have been considering polishing it next to make it nice and shiny.
Oh my!
I was having so much trouble watching you do this. Help yourself out. Get yourself a stick of cutting wax. Apply it to all of your cutting and sanding materials. Crank up the tool and rub the wax onto the disc, belt and especially that death wheel. This will speed up your sanding work and safety by five ten times. I've never tried seperating the water crossover. Didnt change intakes much unless the motor was out of the car. Your work looks good!
Thanks
I was thinking about maybe doing something similar to my performer, but it has the endurashine coating. Which comes apart at the exhaust crossover. And btw, i blocked the crossover off on my 461 stroker. It was nothing but fuel boiling trouble for me. I run great no matter how cold, because aluminum transfers heat so well anyway.
yea that endurshine coating is kinda bad about that. also it is bad about holding heat since if i remember its about 4 layers of powder coat, cant tell you how many Friends i have had that had issues with the endurashine, peeling, flaking, or causing fuel boiling issues. I had one that stained from a little gas from the fitting. if i do anything with the crossover on this one it would be a restrictor plate , since i plan on using this on a daily driver.
That looks sharp. I like it.
thanks, i have been considering polishing it next. but i have polished so many to a shine that im sick of doing it
nice job .cutting the crossover off even on a cast iron intake only takes a few minutes with a hack saw. mine never leaked at the heads with the seperate crossover. oh use studs on the thermostat less likely to have thread problems on the aluminum
Thanks, i have had alot of aluminum intakes over the years. Only time i have thread issues with a thermostat is the cheap china ones, and used ones someone has messed up. But the stud idea is a good one regardless.
Nice job
Thank you
Thanks for posting these great videos. Keep them coming.
i will do my best. Thanks for watching
I need to cut the center down on mine a little bit so I car run a Holley st demon with out a spacer because of the goggle door for the secondary.
The air file i use makes quick work of cutting aluminum and notching the center divider. They have several different end attachments that make things so easy. The only down side is the price of the ones i have.
So did you have any issues with the cooling jackets leaking. Only 1 bolt each side seems problematic
No. Its an old school trick, if you look at the kauffman intakes they come with out the cross overs.
Awesome!! Love the seperate cross over! Have a small leak on my 389 rt now. Have an edlebrock also. Trick shit!!!
Thanks, yea the cross over separation is a way to help get the crossover to seal to the head ports and front water pump better. or alot faster way to change out intakes if you want as well
Hell Yes that was bada$$!!!!! NICE
Thanks! The gasser bros have this one now. i just did another one to replace it.
I don't know enough about engines to know if this helps performance or not, it does look cool as hell
for the most part everything on the outside is for looks and a small amount of weight reduction
Efurd Garage it looks awesome
Joe schmo thanks I did go a step further in another video and polished it
It makes the cold air colder - - keeps 210 degree water away from intake air.
Do you that maybe edlebrock a lot of testing before that manifold went into production?
no not really, it flows about the same as the late 60s stock intakes and is almost a copy of them, just like the sbc rpm is almost an exact copy of the late 60s factory high performance aluminum intake.
Well done brah!
Thanks bro
What year tempest coming up
It is an odd one. Its a 66 el Camino that was going to get chrused. It has a 66 tempest front end and dash.
I'm not sure I Vought the reasoning fornseperating the front crossover, wouldn't that make it much more prone to leaks as it heat cycles?
oddly enough it dosnt, it is done alot in the Pontiac drag racing world makes swapping intakes alot easier
+Terry “Pontiac” Efurd huh, well someone's gotta keep with tradition. not sure I'd personaly follow that one in particular though lol
yea its not for everyone but it is also supposed to allow the runners and water to line up properly. But for some just one piece works. although i do like it more open though with all the aluminum cut out like my factory H.O. intake is
When you install the non egr edelbrock pontiac torker II intake manifold on the 66 pontiac 389, you do not need to block off plates just use the edelbrock gasket with the solid piece right? To plug it via intake gasket and non egr manifold right?
When installed on 1972 and up cylinder heads, intake gasket FEL-MS90205 or MRG-5848 is required to seal exhaust crossover. as ling as you have gaskets for 65-71 your good, But on yours basically, all it will affect is the heat crossover with the solid you basically will not have a heat cross over so you will lose some benefits but have some gains elsewhere. the little plates allow you to either restrict or eliminate the crossover.
Terry Efurd The crossovers is for the emission pump to reintroduce the exhaust back into the intake right? Will it mess up the vacuum somehow if I use those solid cutouts from the gasket kit to block off said crossovers?
it will not mess up the vacuum, crossover regardless of egr or non egr is for several reasons. 1 it puts some heat on the intake plenum so it warms up easier, 2 will run better in colder weather, 3 help atomize fuel, . now with a non egr intake you are getting all that now a egr intake with the egr connected will reintroduce it but only of you have the egr device and intake. racers block off the crossover so they get a cooler air/fuel charge. but depending on what your doing you may want to look at either running open crossover, restricted or closed, just depends on what your doing street, street/strip, full race, efi or carb, and also where you live can play a roll in it
The Mr Gasket 502G intake gasket set comes with the block off plates that can be left blocked or drilled open.
Put the plates on the intake manifold side of the gaskets (on the top), not the head side.
Cutting the water port off .what good does that do
joseph lacy to me it allows the bolts to line up easier on the head bolts. As well as the front port for the water pump. And the rest of the intake becomes easily removed to change intakes without losing coolant as long you have another cut. Plus after all my mods it lost another 3lbs of weight
Efurd Garage
Also it can aid in cooler intake charge as the initial gas air mix is thermally (for a bit ) colder than a stock intake. Old tricks and a few hours in the shop always pay off.
Old school racers did this packed then intake with ice bags just before a 1/4 strip trip, this and a old gas cooler box packed with dry ice. Good times 😎
Lelana Serpa yes with that open you could easily pack ice under the intake
Also allows the intake runners to stay more inline with the intake runners in the head....with a pontiac you have to pull the intake forward to seal against the cross over of the timing chain cover which can cause turbulence between intake and head ports......with this you can tightin the water cross over and allow the runners between the intake and heads to stay more center....still cant bring myself to do this with my tri power even tho it does have its advantages
Also great on the dyno, I was able to test 4 different intakes without draining anything. Just swapped intakes and carb
you was doing just great w/the electric side grinder, then, and I do not know why, you changed to that weak excuse... air driven, always binding tool. I learned to stay w/the electric cause it works harder and doesn't bind. BullyBilly
Certain spots the disc on the electrical grinder was to close for comfort to the runners because of the size. Also the electric is at times bad at jerking and grabbing so the small air can start spots and get into tight areas better.
Do you own a die grinder with carbide bits?
Of course, but after working with stainless, mild steel, and aluminum for over 13yrs, you find out that carbine bits are not always the answer and are honestly outdated. There are other tools out there that work well and more controllable, better reach, leave a better texture, and more forgiving then carbine bits
@@EfurdGarage I have building engines for over 40 years. Been porting aluminum heads almost as long. Buck up dude, Carbide cutters made for aluminum have been around longer than I. Try it - you'll like it.
i have used carbide cutters, my first five years of working with metals i never had a dyna file, we used rocks, carbide, cartridge rolls, cone points, spiral points, etc. once i got the dynafile i was sold, it was a great reach, tons of attachments that change the end shape of the wheel so you can really get any radius you want making it extremely versatile , many different belts from sand to felt so you can go as rough or as smooth as you need. Now there are times carbide still work better, but just because they have been around forever dosnt mean there is not anything out there that can make it easier. There are surfaces i can manipulate by using the dynafile that is easier and faster then trying to do it with a carbide. in my experience i can take a dynafile and leave an area in much better shape, smoother and faster with one belt alone then using a carbide followed by sandpaper rolls. not to mention i can throw a felt belt on to even make the area even smoother and just be a few steps away from a polished finish. The only real downside to the dyna file is the price. not trying to sell it im just really explaining why i use it, of course using a carbide bit for so long, you can get so use to it and do things with it i understand that.
@@EfurdGarage I totally understand the worth of a dyna file. I have one - I am also well aware of going through a bunch of belts. I just see no replacement for aluminum carbide burrs when hogging out large areas. I also have to say thank you for your reply.
@@ShogMan no problem. I see your point on the belts as we go through tons at work. As far as doing intakes and heads I don't do it enough to worry about belts. But I can say there are several belts that are better at aluminum then others. But I do understand your point on larger areas. But I think the big thing for me is how I have learnt easily shape things such such as rounding or knife edge in. And still it's speed some belts take it out so fast it can be bad which wouldn't be good for some people. Also I wouldn't recommend someone to just go for the dynafile right off the bat without having used it before
very nice mod work shown here. will it also receive a port match to your cylinder heads ? 400 motor ? what torque and hp range ?
it will receive a port match along with the 96 heads, its a 1970 400 and heads from a gto. should be about 36-370 hp 445 ftlbs. Its going into my el tempest project as a daily driver. i am aiming for about 420hp and 500ftlbs . give or take, but the car will weigh in the low 3000 range. just swapping the intake, cam, adding headers and hei. will either have a 750 or 800 qjet. May do a efi set up on it but havnt made up my mind on that one yet
Efurd Garage very cool !
I have a 70 formula 400 with #13 heads. Has been hei converted.
Heads and manifold are untouched atm. All number matching but keen to do something like what you're doing.
Also love my qjet750 which i've rebuilt and tuning
i run a qjet on almost everything. that sounds like an awsome car. my dad had one when i was young i loved it. my 64 gto is getting a transplant do to it not being numbers matching. im pulling the 400 h.o from my 68 gto since its numbers matching and putting it in the 64 because of the plans i have for the 68. the 400 in the 64 will look original since most people dont know that it should have a carter afb if you had the 4 barrel, not a qjet, but i will be running a ram air cam and repo factory headers. 68 is going pro street since i got it before the 64, and the 64 was my dads we were building before he passed so it dosnt hardly get driven and rarely hotrodded, so the numbers matching motor for the 68 will be safe if i ever want to go back all orginal lol
Should’ve went ahead and shaved off the edelbrock logo and performer rpm. 😁 that’s how mine is.
Some people like it some dont. Im so used to seeing the cheap Chinese intakes many with no logo that i prefer to keep the name brand.... Even if it is edelbrock 😆
Sounds cool
Thanks
Wow, no leather gloves, no guard on grinder and he just let the intake sit there. Did not hold it down. I have seen some horrible injuries with cut off wheels. BTW, he cut down the divider too much for performance.
No it may look like alot but the divider was only cut down an 1/8". Nope no gloves seen to many guys with the gloves we were given have to have the wound opened up and bits of Kevlar glove pulled out. yep no guard several of the disc and attachments we run are to big for the guard. And the guard would have gotten in the way on some of those spots. over 16yrs in the metal fabrication field, seen my share of incidents as well. I get it it does look scary not having a clamp to hold it. if i could have used a different table then i would have had places to clamp it.
Killed the dual plane function
No i did not. Divider is still there just got rounded over on the top since i was goinig to run an open spacer on top. Now that it is going on an engine with hood clearance issues. No soacer so the divider is getting notched under the back barrels about 1/2" which still does not kill dual plane function but will balance at top end. Which is the way most high performance dual plans are made. Edelbrock just never updated their pontiac line up
Still makes it not function as designed Chevy did this to some intakes but it did loose low speed torque production
@@blainesnider9089 its a pontiac they make alot of low end so it won't hurt it one bit unless its built wrong. 1 have one on my stock 350 chevy it didnt lose any low end. What i did is not going to hurt anything. If you think about it and run the proper heat insulator gasket that is 1/4" thick i run the open designs, you have a 1/4" gap anyway and no one ever lost low end from that. Now if i took that divider down all the way across 1/2" or more yea it would. But in reality most of the time while drivinf your over 1200 rpm. And if you going for high performance you should have a stall so really you dont worry about slight loss at under 1500. And if your spinning your tires down low you could also afford to loose some low end
I know I am a pontiac guy. I have a 70 formula 400 with a ram 4 cam ported 13s ,10.5 comp edlebrock performer ported but not cut down
@@blainesnider9089 see i wont touch a perfromer i would rather run the 67-72 factory cast intakes. Never was a fan of a base performer for anything.
Nice sell that one to me!!
i would but i dont want to put that much work into another one lol . if you look at my newer videos i went and polished this one
All that grinding and no gloves on?? Damn, you either foolish or brave. Especially with that huge carbide blade.
been grinding stainless and aluminum for 15yrs now. never wear gloves. never had a carbide bit get me. had grind disc get me but glove wont help there