Thank you Robert, I will be making some marker buoys for our lake association this winter. We are located north of Ottawa and will benefit from your video!
Good luck! I am making some new buoys to mark hazards that use 6" diameter pipe. They cost more than the 4" but are a lot more visible on the water. They also comply with Dept. of Transport regulations.
Very informative tutorial. Ingenious idea! Thx. What did you use to anchor the markers and where did you have the waterproof signage and reflective tape made up?
I use 4” concrete blocks for anchors. They are lighter than the standard 8” block if you want to take them out. I bought the stickers from County Sign & Display in Minden.
Very nice video, Robert. I'm not sure if I heard it, but do you keep these buoys in the water in the winter? I'm asking because I'd like to make buoys we can attach our thin ice signs to them and allow to freeze in vs. placing thin ice signs near our aerator in the winter.
Great design and thanks for posting! I need to make some winter markers to replace our regular mooring balls. Being in a rocky, salt water location, this allows the mooring chain to rest on the bottom during the winter months so it doesn’t wear out as fast. In the spring, the winter markers allow us to find and raise the mooring chain again to reattach to the mooring balls. I’m planning to try out your design. Do you see any problems using this PVC buoy in deeper (17 feet) and more extreme conditions (wavy, windy, salt water)? Thanks!
Hi Brian, I have three active buoys that are happily anchored in water that depth and they have posed no problems at all. I use polypropylene rope for the anchor lines. As for rough weather my only experience is on an inland lake in Ontario but I have never had one sink or take in water in a storm, ever. If that did happen the pool noodle insert should at least keep the buoy afloat so you don’t lose it, but again that has never happened to me. As for salt water it will provide more buoyancy than fresh water so you may have to use a more ballast than I used in the video. Don’t allow them to be top heavy or they will not float vertical in the water and will blow over too much in the wind. Good luck
@@robertbevan125 Thanks. I’m thinking more pool noodle (to keep too much water from entering) and more ballast to keep upright since mine will also be subject to wake from large ferries and boats. I’m also thinking a non-floating rope (e.g., nylon) might be a better choice to help prevent prop fouling-especially since I’m in a tidal situation where the amount of free line available varies throughout the day.
@@brianweekley5700 Good point on the nylon rope and the tides. Would you make the buoys shorter (10 ft / 3) to decrease their wind resistance? I have made them this short (for use in shallow water) and they remain seaworthy.
I have had requests for markers that comply with Transport Canada's Private Buoy Regulation that specifies buoys be a minimum of 6 inches wide. To do this I used 6" diameter pipe and fittings, but to buy them I had to go to a wholesale plumbing supply firm rather than a retail building supply/hardware store. I found that 6" pipe and fittings are 4-5 times the price of 4". Other than that, they went together the same except that I had to use the thicker and slower drying "Heavy" PVC Cement rather than the usual "Medium"'. The larger joints require more time to paint with the glue so a longer working time cement was helpful. In addition the gaps in the 6" joints are too wide for the thinner cement.
Approximately how much in Cdn $ to make the 6” diameter buoys if one were making 12 or so at a time. Have you done a UA-cam video on those yet? Well done, the Transport Canada regs for Shoal Hazards as I read them stipulates white surface, 6” diameter, 12” above water line and marked PRIV and must show installer’s contact info. Flashing light and retro reflective material are not required but they specify what is needed if you do. Is that your interpretation? I am President of a cottager’s association near North Bay & Mattawa and we are considering doing this.
@@brianbaker359 I just made twelve 6” diameter buoys for an all in cost of $1,900.00. At this volume I was unable to realize any quantity discounts with the suppliers. So I would figure on $160 each. As to the markings, we did not put lights on ours but we did put on orange reflective stripes with the diamond design for the hazard markers.
@@robertbevan125 Thanks Robert for your update on the 6” diameter pipe build. I am a bit shocked at the cost of materials but that seems to be the trend these days. We are seriously considering the Go Deep yellow cautionary buoy GD-10 that is being used by several Ontario cottage associations. $39 each with shackle, PRIV on 2 sides and single row of orange reflective tape. Shipping and taxes are extra. Not 100% TC spec but others are using them with excellent results. Thank you for so generously sharing your experience and findings.
Transport Canada does not approve No Wake signing as it is impossible to achieve. Nevertheless an excellent video on how to construct these high quality buoys.
if i wanted to use this method but make them smaller ( i coach a rowing team and want to make a home made buoyed course for racing) what would be the smallest size you would reccomend? and then what would the weight of rocks be then. thanks
I have successfully made them 33” long by cutting a ten foot pipe into three. As i recall they each took 3 lbs of rocks and floated with 17” of freeboard, but you might test that out first.. I use them in shallow water where the 5’ markers would hit bottom and not float straight up.. The cottage association also uses this size painted yellow to put in a temporary caution line for their fireworks display. The 33”size is totally stable in the water and much easier to handle getting in and out.
Thank you so much I am on a private lake and we needed no trespassing buoys in order for our sheriff to prosecute trespassing. How do you determine the length of the rope between the buoy and the anchor? We will have to remove the buoys in the fall as our lake freezes over in the winter. I made the buoy as per your instructions and it floated perfectly vertical with 19” above the water. I used local flat stone that I drilled a hole in for the anchor. The cost was around $50.00 per buoy.
I like your idea for the anchor. The length of the rope is not critical. I use just enough to reach the bottom and tie the required knots while allowing the buoy float horizontally. That way I can let water in to make it pop up just by pulling on the rope. More than that and the scope increases, allowing the buoy to drift farther away from whatever I am trying to mark.
@@richardvogel1735 Re your comment that your buoys showed only 19” above water. Typically mine show 30”. The last three I made used 5 lbs of rocks and have chain anchor lines. Perhaps if you let out some water you could get yours to float higher.
Hello Robert -- I very much enjoyed your two videos on making navigation buoys. The videos are both very informative and easy to understand. Do you have an email contact as I would like to contact you.Thank you.
Thank you Robert, I will be making some marker buoys for our lake association this winter. We are located north of Ottawa and will benefit from your video!
Good luck!
I am making some new buoys to mark hazards that use 6" diameter pipe. They cost more than the 4" but are a lot more visible on the water. They also comply with Dept. of Transport regulations.
Great job Bob! I’m also impressed with your workshop.
Thanks Michael
Very informative tutorial. Ingenious idea! Thx.
What did you use to anchor the markers and where did you have the waterproof signage and reflective tape made up?
I use 4” concrete blocks for anchors. They are lighter than the standard 8” block if you want to take them out. I bought the stickers from County Sign & Display in Minden.
Very nice video, Robert. I'm not sure if I heard it, but do you keep these buoys in the water in the winter? I'm asking because I'd like to make buoys we can attach our thin ice signs to them and allow to freeze in vs. placing thin ice signs near our aerator in the winter.
Great design and thanks for posting! I need to make some winter markers to replace our regular mooring balls. Being in a rocky, salt water location, this allows the mooring chain to rest on the bottom during the winter months so it doesn’t wear out as fast. In the spring, the winter markers allow us to find and raise the mooring chain again to reattach to the mooring balls. I’m planning to try out your design. Do you see any problems using this PVC buoy in deeper (17 feet) and more extreme conditions (wavy, windy, salt water)? Thanks!
Hi Brian,
I have three active buoys that are happily anchored in water that depth and they have posed no problems at all. I use polypropylene rope for the anchor lines. As for rough weather my only experience is on an inland lake in Ontario but I have never had one sink or take in water in a storm, ever. If that did happen the pool noodle insert should at least keep the buoy afloat so you don’t lose it, but again that has never happened to me.
As for salt water it will provide more buoyancy than fresh water so you may have to use a more ballast than I used in the video. Don’t allow them to be top heavy or they will not float vertical in the water and will blow over too much in the wind.
Good luck
@@robertbevan125 Thanks. I’m thinking more pool noodle (to keep too much water from entering) and more ballast to keep upright since mine will also be subject to wake from large ferries and boats. I’m also thinking a non-floating rope (e.g., nylon) might be a better choice to help prevent prop fouling-especially since I’m in a tidal situation where the amount of free line available varies throughout the day.
@@brianweekley5700 Good point on the nylon rope and the tides. Would you make the buoys shorter (10 ft / 3) to decrease their wind resistance? I have made them this short (for use in shallow water) and they remain seaworthy.
As I work for spx,I hope everything works out for you.
very helpful
I have had requests for markers that comply with Transport Canada's Private Buoy Regulation that specifies buoys be a minimum of 6 inches wide. To do this I used 6" diameter pipe and fittings, but to buy them I had to go to a wholesale plumbing supply firm rather than a retail building supply/hardware store. I found that 6" pipe and fittings are 4-5 times the price of 4". Other than that, they went together the same except that I had to use the thicker and slower drying "Heavy" PVC Cement rather than the usual "Medium"'. The larger joints require more time to paint with the glue so a longer working time cement was helpful. In addition the gaps in the 6" joints are too wide for the thinner cement.
Approximately how much in Cdn $ to make the 6” diameter buoys if one were making 12 or so at a time. Have you done a UA-cam video on those yet?
Well done, the Transport Canada regs for Shoal Hazards as I read them stipulates white surface, 6” diameter, 12” above water line and marked PRIV and must show installer’s contact info. Flashing light and retro reflective material are not required but they specify what is needed if you do.
Is that your interpretation? I am President of a cottager’s association near North Bay & Mattawa and we are considering doing this.
@@brianbaker359 I just made twelve 6” diameter buoys for an all in cost of $1,900.00. At this volume I was unable to realize any quantity discounts with the suppliers. So I would figure on $160 each.
As to the markings, we did not put lights on ours but we did put on orange reflective stripes with the diamond design for the hazard markers.
@@robertbevan125 Thanks Robert for your update on the 6” diameter pipe build. I am a bit shocked at the cost of materials but that seems to be the trend these days.
We are seriously considering the Go Deep yellow cautionary buoy GD-10 that is being used by several Ontario cottage associations. $39 each with shackle, PRIV on 2 sides and single row of orange reflective tape. Shipping and taxes are extra. Not 100% TC spec but others are using them with excellent results. Thank you for so generously sharing your experience and findings.
if we leave them there all winter will they be put back on their own
Transport Canada does not approve No Wake signing as it is impossible to achieve. Nevertheless an excellent video on how to construct these high quality buoys.
if i wanted to use this method but make them smaller ( i coach a rowing team and want to make a home made buoyed course for racing) what would be the smallest size you would reccomend? and then what would the weight of rocks be then. thanks
I have successfully made them 33” long by cutting a ten foot pipe into three. As i recall they each took 3 lbs of rocks and floated with 17” of freeboard, but you might test that out first.. I use them in shallow water where the 5’ markers would hit bottom and not float straight up.. The cottage association also uses this size painted yellow to put in a temporary caution line for their fireworks display. The 33”size is totally stable in the water and much easier to handle getting in and out.
Thank you so much I am on a private lake and we needed no trespassing buoys in order for our sheriff to prosecute trespassing. How do you determine the length of the rope between the buoy and the anchor? We will have to remove the buoys in the fall as our lake freezes over in the winter. I made the buoy as per your instructions and it floated perfectly vertical with 19” above the water. I used local flat stone that I drilled a hole in for the anchor. The cost was around $50.00 per buoy.
I like your idea for the anchor. The length of the rope is not critical. I use just enough to reach the bottom and tie the required knots while allowing the buoy float horizontally. That way I can let water in to make it pop up just by pulling on the rope. More than that and the scope increases, allowing the buoy to drift farther away from whatever I am trying to mark.
Robert Bevan You can drill the stone with a concrete bit and a hammer drill quickly.
@@richardvogel1735 Do you use sedimentary stone? All the rock in my area Is granite and really hard.
Robert Bevan even granite using a hammer drill and concrete drill bit should not be a problem
@@richardvogel1735 Re your comment that your buoys showed only 19” above water. Typically mine show 30”. The last three I made used 5 lbs of rocks and have chain anchor lines. Perhaps if you let out some water you could get yours to float higher.
Where did you find the stickers and the piping to do that?
I ordered the stickers from a business that makes signs. The 4” pipe can be bought at most building supply stores.
Om ❤️
Hello Robert -- I very much enjoyed your two videos on making navigation buoys. The videos are both very informative and easy to understand. Do you have an email contact as I would like to contact you.Thank you.