Just to let you know, the build plate they use is called their 'Ultrabase'. You're supposed to let it cool the whole way down before removing the parts. On my Mega X the parts will come off by themselves if I let it cool to room temp - I usually wait until ~35C before I pull my parts. Some sort of micro pores or something blah blah but it works if you have the patience to let the bed cool.
my dude is killin it with the content uploads. absolutely no production values besides in camera editing helps ben's process become completely smooth to hit that upload button
Ben, you've learned the lesson that every cat owner must learn eventually. Cats don't like the toys/beds you buy them. They want old boxes and trash to play with.
Tip for loading and unloading filliment, when going through the precedure, load filliment through the hotend then quickly unload the filliment, it will get over that blob making it so you cant unload with ease Another trick is play with flow rate and print a 20x20x20 cube too see how accurate each axis is and calibrate where needed Also mess with x/y jerk to get finner qaulity at higher speeds
A couple more things. The base is an AnyCubic Ultrabase and the part should easily snap off the bed if you let the bed cool first, it’s like magic. Also, the internals look identical to my mega so it should take the custom marlin firmware so long as you adjust the bed dimensions. The LCD controller goes into a splitter with the SD cards so both can drive the printer. I’m happy to share my Simplify3D profile if you want it. I also modded one of my printers to be direct drive with the extruder mounted on the head. It means you get better quality, more reliability, but you need to slow the print speeds even more or you get ringing on prints due to the heavier head.
The blue silicon sock on the nozzle isn't for your protection (when printing it's at nozzle temperature), it's mean to give the nozzle better heat insulation to save on power, allow higher temperatures for a given heater, and increase temperature stability. Because of its insulating properties, it also remains hot a long time (cools down slower than metal) so it might still be at dangerous temperatures for quite a while if it's been heated.
Have been using an ender 3 pro for over a half year now. What an amazing thing 3D printing is. I made so many cool stuff that is beyond expensive to buy at a store.
I picked up the Anycubic Zero after you highlighted it. I've managed to get some decent prints out of it. Most of my failed prints have come from the print lifting from the bed so I have to keep an eye on it for the first few layers. I've been putting down a bit of glue stick and that has helped massively, if a bit of a pain to clear up. It's also worth noting that the filament they sent you is sold separately, you don't get any with it bar a small amount, enough to print the owl. And at the price in the black friday sale the Zero is a steal.
The inconsistent layers may have to do with the crap stepper drivers it has for the z axis and extruder motors. I don’t know why they bothered upgrading the X and Y but kept the other 3 on the older drivers.
I ordered a MegaX after i watched your video. They got my money but still no sign of the printer being shipped, so if anybody plans on buying one, don't expect it to arrive quickly.
With my Mega Pro I probaply had same problems - at least underextrusion for 6-12 months. That was because the 2 cable ties above extruder(which ties the teflon tube to other cords) arrested the filament movement. After the cuts filament went smoothly to hotend and had no problem since. Just dont cut that tie that holds the pneumatic connector from releasing the teflon tube.
The inconsistent layers may have to do with the crap stepper drivers it has for the z axis and extruder motors. I don’t know why they bothered upgrading the X and Y but kept the other 3 on the older drivers. Also I extrude just a tiny and pull the blob off then remove the filament and don’t have as much of an issue of the filament getting stuck in the extruder.
Me, laying in bed about to go to sleep: “Let’s hop on UA-cam and watch a quick video before going to sleep” “Hey, new Ben Heck video! Yeah, no, I didn’t want to sleep anytime soon anyways....”
Hi Ben, I just started using the Anycubic Chiron and it has most of the quality problems you are having. To fix the blob on the end of the filament make sure the bowden tube has a nice square end and it pushed all the way down to the nozzle. Mine was not and it gave me the same blob that stopped the filament passing though the runout detector. I ran though a few days of calibration and to get good prints with minimal ringing the chiron had to be printing lower than 40mm/s so I set my outer walls to 35 and inner to 40. I also ran the PID calibration for 195 and 200 degree because the cheap hot ends run a little hot.
Hi there, this is just a simple test. please print 5 squares (30 or 40mm edge length) each one in the corners and one in the middle of the print bed and 0.2mm layer height and describe the result. I look forward to the results.
I've got one of the earlier versions. One recommendation: it's a pain but if let the bed cool down, the prints will almost pop off. If you're impatience (like me) and go at it while the bed is still about 40C or so, then eventually that nice tacky Ultrabase surface wouldn't grab prints as well. In my case, a VERY light sanding with high grit sandpaper and a few wipe downs with IPA & water has got it almost back to close to original surface... almost.
Ben, ask them for provision... i just checked at their website, double-checked with your previous review and decided the Zero will replace my geeetech i3 acrylic (there's always been some flexing at the Z(ett!!!)-axis, so it can't get worse). Scored it for 96€/114$, also bought loads of filament. I will use the (overpowered,yet simple) electronics of the geeetech for a dual-extrusion core-xy build.
I have a i3 Mega with the S upgrade, which is pretty much the same unit except that your screen looks different. My main complaint is the heating, which is weak. Any serious use will probably require a MOSFET upgrade. Other than that, I'm pretty happy with it.
Ben -- that textured Build Plate (AnyCubic UltraBase) is actually pretty cool stuff. After the Build Plate cools down, your model will actually pop-off by itself. While the UltraBase is hot, it is quite strong hold on the model. I am impatient, I have ruined several models while attempting to remove them. I should have waited a few minutes for the cool-down,.
The ATmega chips have that lovely PWM cell hooked to the really nice timers that can do three-phase motor drive, though; that's one of the reasons you see them in a lot of robots and stuff.
I just put my anycubic pro together and I continue to have a problem with the filament not sticking to the bed, something is just not right but I can't figure it out.
On my new Anycubic Chiron I had to print at 35 > 40 mm/s with acceleration 350 and jerk 4 to stop the ringing and get a good benchy. Retraction should be less than the length of the nozzle before the bowden tube. No matter what I couldn't tune out some slight noise in the filament so I am going to replace the cheap clone V6 with a proper E3d V6 lite and Titan Extruder. Down the line I am also thinking of upgrading to the biqtree tech v1.4 turbo like I did on one of my other printers.
You say you're printing those controller parts quickly because you don't want to wait for the part while you're making the controller. Is there a reason why you don't Pre-print a few parts in a finer quality just to have them available when you need them? Nice video btw, I learned a lot.
also the cord for the heater bed is too short, it will commonly wiggle itself loose and cut power (but the printer is smart enough to stop). You'll find you'll be wanting to extend it.
Ben, do you 3D print parts for every controller you make or are these prototype parts and a factory makes like 100 for you using plastic mould injection perhaps? Might be cheaper and faster to do that. Bud is cute!
@@Skulldude69420 yep, i ordered a mega zero the day Ben did that video. was supposed to be my first 3d printer. now i own 2 Ender 3s and could not be happier!
I waited 5 months for my Ender 3- I ordered it from banggood and they send it from China to Germany BY TRAIN...the tracking showed the whole journey- including the 2 months it spend in Poland..
it's doubtful that the 8-bit MCU is limiting the print speed, unless you're seeing skipping or tearing which it didn't look like. it's more likely the current-handling capacity of the tmc2208 drivers and/or the motors themselves that's the limiting factor.
@@Robert-zx2df You need to Flash the new firmware to the device. Check the Anycube community pages on Reddit on how to do it. since every device is different
@@Robert-zx2df no its custom firmware. usually those printers run on a FORK of marlin. and if you check the Github page you will find how to install/add that feature. I would also suggest you to get a GLASS bed. before you even start printing.
@@darknessblades I'm new to 3d printing . Bought it off impulse cause it was $450 Candian lol. Hopefully I made a good choice here.... Should I be messing around with firmware?
To prevent the blob when you take the filament out of the printer you should extrude a little bit of the filament then remove it immediately then you should not get the blob.
@@BenHeckHacks I've been meaning to invert the arms on my delta printer & mount the assembly in an ikea shelf. Give it a raspberry pi & a 32-bit controller & crank the speed dial to 11. I'll give it a touch screen, & an lcars interface that launches a slicer, thingiverse, etc. Sidelit white glass bed panel. "Federation replicator"
@41:16 you mention the blob.. once you release the tension on the extruder motor, push the filiment in until some squirts out the tip, then quickly pull back a few inches. This action will mostly eliminate a balled-up end. That's pretty much what the multi-color extruder setups like @3dchameleon use in their color change code in the slicers.
I wonder if the fan is connected to the leveler for accessibility? Deaf people can put their hand near the fan to feel it blowing instead of the audible alarm.
The firmware can compile in -o3, at least, provided it's the 1.1.9 variant. I haven't had issues on a delta. Well, I have, but the glitches are more often than not cute than catastroptic
This printer uses the same mechatronics and board as the i3 mega/Mega S. So it suffers from the same problems. Extrusion steps need to be calibrated in some printers out of the box. Part cooling fan needs a better duct. This printer has the most loud fans i've ever heard. Some tips for you: *this printer seems to behave better with cura. *straighten the bowden tube so the filament gets less drag inside the tube. *for the love of god let the bed cool down before removing the print or you will ruin the ultrabase. Believe me, when it cools down you dont need any tool to renove the print
3D printers cannot mill very well because they are not built to resist deflection. People who try to put rotary heads onto 3D printers get poor results due to that. If you want two machines then buy two machines. Because the differences between the two combined will leave you with a machine that cannot perform either task particularly well.
Apologies if this has already been discussed, but could the "display board" actually be the main board (it has an Anycublic logo on it), and the other board is using the 2560 as essentially an IO expander?
I almost always print from the SD card. I've had numerous failures when the serial link between the computer and the printer failed, or the printer app crashed. I've had very good results with Matter Hackers 'store brand' filament.
I wish you luck, i also ordered one (the mega x) it's been more than a week, they hasn't shipped it yet, sent an email, 2 days later still no answer. e-mailed them again to cancel the order and i ordered a creality cr10spro instead. I'm pretty sure i'll have to claim the refund from my credit card because their customer service looks abscent.
If fast printing gets you excited, search the following on youtube: Printing at 800 mm/s on a FDM CoreXY - Can the HevORT do it? it is pretty amazing in my book...
So what I'm seeing is that Anycubic seems to upgrade their printers incrementally. i3 Mega with some improvements becomes Mega S... Mega S with dual gear extruder feeder, better bed leveling knobs, better stepper drivers, and assisted bed leveling becomes Mega Pro. Yet they continue to use the same 8 bit main board, and same V5 J-Head hot end. That signature filament bulb on the unloaded filament tells me that. The print quality suffers from this design, and what happens is under extrusion due to restricted flow.
@@SangheiliSpecOp It does work well. I think you'll be happy with it. And I do NOT recommend getting it direct from AnyCubic, get it on Amazon instead. I had to threaten a chargeback before I got the pla. I wish that I had purchased an idex printer from the start. I have 2 printers now. The TENLOG TL-D3 Pro has been a very good printer as well, albeit it was about twice the cost.
@@MrSneakyGunz thank you for sharing! I was thinking about getting it from Amazon, thats where I saw all of the reviews. I used to be very knowledgeable about 3d printing despite never having owned one, I did a ton on research but never pulled the trigger. I have since forgotten a lot but its slowly coming back to me haha.
I liked your talk on this printer. Very detailed for a girl who knows nothing about these. (They're really just an oversized glue gun to us, but I liked learning about the components). Thanks. (p.s. only crazy people buy kittens cuz you're signing up for years and years of "dog energy" hahaha)
Just to let you know, the build plate they use is called their 'Ultrabase'. You're supposed to let it cool the whole way down before removing the parts. On my Mega X the parts will come off by themselves if I let it cool to room temp - I usually wait until ~35C before I pull my parts. Some sort of micro pores or something blah blah but it works if you have the patience to let the bed cool.
my dude is killin it with the content uploads. absolutely no production values besides in camera editing helps ben's process become completely smooth to hit that upload button
Ben, you've learned the lesson that every cat owner must learn eventually.
Cats don't like the toys/beds you buy them. They want old boxes and trash to play with.
Tip for loading and unloading filliment, when going through the precedure, load filliment through the hotend then quickly unload the filliment, it will get over that blob making it so you cant unload with ease
Another trick is play with flow rate and print a 20x20x20 cube too see how accurate each axis is and calibrate where needed
Also mess with x/y jerk to get finner qaulity at higher speeds
Please test the laser engraver features and let us know. Since you’re a frequent laser user we would love to get your insight on if it’s usable!
BTW printer still running well, using it to make parts for single handed controllers.
A couple more things. The base is an AnyCubic Ultrabase and the part should easily snap off the bed if you let the bed cool first, it’s like magic. Also, the internals look identical to my mega so it should take the custom marlin firmware so long as you adjust the bed dimensions. The LCD controller goes into a splitter with the SD cards so both can drive the printer.
I’m happy to share my Simplify3D profile if you want it. I also modded one of my printers to be direct drive with the extruder mounted on the head. It means you get better quality, more reliability, but you need to slow the print speeds even more or you get ringing on prints due to the heavier head.
Hey Ben, when removing the filament on a Bowden if you extrude a little immediately before pulling it out it will reduce that blobbing issue.
Ah that makes sense. Thanks!
You didn't test out the laser engraving attachment though.
Maybe he'll do that in a separate video?
I would have liked to have seen that. Looks like he forgot all about it.
Was thinking the same thing
kitty clips made up for it... almost
The blue silicon sock on the nozzle isn't for your protection (when printing it's at nozzle temperature), it's mean to give the nozzle better heat insulation to save on power, allow higher temperatures for a given heater, and increase temperature stability. Because of its insulating properties, it also remains hot a long time (cools down slower than metal) so it might still be at dangerous temperatures for quite a while if it's been heated.
This channel got 10% better with the inclusion of Bud
yes, he's after the cat video vote as well! so it's a win, win :-)
more like 90%
When other UA-camrs do unboxings, they're boring as hell.
When Ben does an unboxing, it's an adventure of nonsensical proportions.
Ben Heck just Rick Rolled me....
But it is nice to know that he won't ever.... nah, I can't bring myself to say the rest.
Have been using an ender 3 pro for over a half year now. What an amazing thing 3D printing is. I made so many cool stuff that is beyond expensive to buy at a store.
As soon as I saw the full size toy printing, I knew it was going to be too big. I think the size of the test toy was fine.
Yep. Cats are really picky.
@@MaxDad7 test toy was "mice size"
I picked up the Anycubic Zero after you highlighted it. I've managed to get some decent prints out of it. Most of my failed prints have come from the print lifting from the bed so I have to keep an eye on it for the first few layers. I've been putting down a bit of glue stick and that has helped massively, if a bit of a pain to clear up. It's also worth noting that the filament they sent you is sold separately, you don't get any with it bar a small amount, enough to print the owl. And at the price in the black friday sale the Zero is a steal.
The inconsistent layers may have to do with the crap stepper drivers it has for the z axis and extruder motors. I don’t know why they bothered upgrading the X and Y but kept the other 3 on the older drivers.
I ordered a MegaX after i watched your video. They got my money but still no sign of the printer being shipped, so if anybody plans on buying one, don't expect it to arrive quickly.
With my Mega Pro I probaply had same problems - at least underextrusion for 6-12 months. That was because the 2 cable ties above extruder(which ties the teflon tube to other cords) arrested the filament movement. After the cuts filament went smoothly to hotend and had no problem since. Just dont cut that tie that holds the pneumatic connector from releasing the teflon tube.
fun fun narration, subscribed right when the changing began. lol. just running my firts test print now!
The inconsistent layers may have to do with the crap stepper drivers it has for the z axis and extruder motors. I don’t know why they bothered upgrading the X and Y but kept the other 3 on the older drivers.
Also I extrude just a tiny and pull the blob off then remove the filament and don’t have as much of an issue of the filament getting stuck in the extruder.
Me, laying in bed about to go to sleep: “Let’s hop on UA-cam and watch a quick video before going to sleep”
“Hey, new Ben Heck video! Yeah, no, I didn’t want to sleep anytime soon anyways....”
That was me three nights ago watching him go through junk mail lol
Hi Ben, I just started using the Anycubic Chiron and it has most of the quality problems you are having. To fix the blob on the end of the filament make sure the bowden tube has a nice square end and it pushed all the way down to the nozzle. Mine was not and it gave me the same blob that stopped the filament passing though the runout detector. I ran though a few days of calibration and to get good prints with minimal ringing the chiron had to be printing lower than 40mm/s so I set my outer walls to 35 and inner to 40. I also ran the PID calibration for 195 and 200 degree because the cheap hot ends run a little hot.
I find if you feed a little filament in before removing it, it doesn't get bulbous and can be fed through the stepper motor...more or less reliably.
That lightbulb is in the Livermore, CA Fire Station
It's an ultra-base style glass bed. If you wait for it to cool off, the part should just pop right off.
Hi there,
this is just a simple test. please print 5 squares (30 or 40mm edge length) each one in the corners and one in the middle of the print bed and 0.2mm layer height and describe the result. I look forward to the results.
I've got one of the earlier versions.
One recommendation: it's a pain but if let the bed cool down, the prints will almost pop off. If you're impatience (like me) and go at it while the bed is still about 40C or so, then eventually that nice tacky Ultrabase surface wouldn't grab prints as well. In my case, a VERY light sanding with high grit sandpaper and a few wipe downs with IPA & water has got it almost back to close to original surface... almost.
Ben, ask them for provision... i just checked at their website, double-checked with your previous review and decided the Zero will replace my geeetech i3 acrylic (there's always been some flexing at the Z(ett!!!)-axis, so it can't get worse). Scored it for 96€/114$, also bought loads of filament. I will use the (overpowered,yet simple) electronics of the geeetech for a dual-extrusion core-xy build.
Ben, moggies generally prefer small, light things to bat around because they skitter across the floor better. The mega-toy was a leetle big & heavy...
Looks like you're underextruding. Did you try raising nozzle temp?
Yeah all of those anycubic test prints look under extruded. increase extrusion multiplier
The e steps are incorrect. Maybe a standard issue with this model. Try E415 instead of programmed E384. It solved my underextrusion problems.
I have a i3 Mega with the S upgrade, which is pretty much the same unit except that your screen looks different. My main complaint is the heating, which is weak. Any serious use will probably require a MOSFET upgrade. Other than that, I'm pretty happy with it.
No forces required to remove the parts from the printbed, just let the printbed let cool down and parts pop off by themselfes
My favorite part is the anti climatic response your cat gave after you slaved away to make it something.
I will have to finish the video tomorrow (it is 1:35 over here ). Two days Ben Heck's new content (and 3d printing 😊). Early Xmas 🎁. Thanks.
Was really considering buying this unit do you know if they have made any upgrades since this video was shot
Ben -- that textured Build Plate (AnyCubic UltraBase) is actually pretty cool stuff. After the Build Plate cools down, your model will actually pop-off by itself. While the UltraBase is hot, it is quite strong hold on the model. I am impatient, I have ruined several models while attempting to remove them. I should have waited a few minutes for the cool-down,.
The ATmega chips have that lovely PWM cell hooked to the really nice timers that can do three-phase motor drive, though; that's one of the reasons you see them in a lot of robots and stuff.
I just put my anycubic pro together and I continue to have a problem with the filament not sticking to the bed, something is just not right but I can't figure it out.
Is the 100 dollar version of this worth the hassle or should you just go with the pro? Been wanting to play with a 3d printer for a while
Showed up for Ben's jokes, stayed for Bud. :)
sunglasses. I love how you mentions spooky pinball. I'm a total pinhead too. Also love you cat, very cute
Bud is so cute!
On my new Anycubic Chiron I had to print at 35 > 40 mm/s with acceleration 350 and jerk 4 to stop the ringing and get a good benchy. Retraction should be less than the length of the nozzle before the bowden tube. No matter what I couldn't tune out some slight noise in the filament so I am going to replace the cheap clone V6 with a proper E3d V6 lite and Titan Extruder. Down the line I am also thinking of upgrading to the biqtree tech v1.4 turbo like I did on one of my other printers.
What a cute kitten!!!
You say you're printing those controller parts quickly because you don't want to wait for the part while you're making the controller.
Is there a reason why you don't Pre-print a few parts in a finer quality just to have them available when you need them?
Nice video btw, I learned a lot.
also the cord for the heater bed is too short, it will commonly wiggle itself loose and cut power (but the printer is smart enough to stop). You'll find you'll be wanting to extend it.
That's nice that it has dual Z motors. I had to add dual z to my Ender 3 V2. Was having some issues with it but the dual z kit fixed it.
Will you be testing and reviewing the laser portion?
Ben, do you 3D print parts for every controller you make or are these prototype parts and a factory makes like 100 for you using plastic mould injection perhaps? Might be cheaper and faster to do that. Bud is cute!
Electrical safety? Will it burn my house down if I leave it running overnight? Is it grounded?
What printer would you recommend for my 13 year old son?
nice, you got a free one and i still have not got the one i paid for.
Ouch. I got my creality cr10 off Amazon 2 day shipping 😢
@@Skulldude69420 yep, i ordered a mega zero the day Ben did that video. was supposed to be my first 3d printer. now i own 2 Ender 3s and could not be happier!
I waited 5 months for my Ender 3- I ordered it from banggood and they send it from China to Germany BY TRAIN...the tracking showed the whole journey- including the 2 months it spend in Poland..
Both came in 5 days. Anycubic is still telling me it's on it's way to me.
@@olik136 That's terrible but I'm afraid it did make me laugh.
Super Video!
artillery sidewinder x1 oder doch anycubic mega pro?
Oder doch ein anderer aktuell?
danke
“ I think it’s upside down… or maybe I’m upside down…” lmao
what extruder is this? i got a Mega S and it's horrible to get the damn Fillament in there. this one seems better
i think it was me on twitter that told you about the SKR- Mini MZ for the mega Zero, honestly not sure.
May have been, thanks! Yeah I will make a video when we do the swap.
it's doubtful that the 8-bit MCU is limiting the print speed, unless you're seeing skipping or tearing which it didn't look like. it's more likely the current-handling capacity of the tmc2208 drivers and/or the motors themselves that's the limiting factor.
Anycubic base is fantastic. When it cools the part just detached from the base.
Ben, the Universal Translator converts units as well as speech.
Ben the micro SD card reader on the screen is to Flash/change the firmware.
Maybe also check if the Thermal runaway protection is turned on.
It has thermal protection? My machine is on the way. How do I turn that on ?
@@Robert-zx2df You need to Flash the new firmware to the device. Check the Anycube community pages on Reddit on how to do it. since every device is different
@@darknessblades oh ok I will. New firmware that comes with it ?
@@Robert-zx2df no its custom firmware.
usually those printers run on a FORK of marlin. and if you check the Github page you will find how to install/add that feature.
I would also suggest you to get a GLASS bed. before you even start printing.
@@darknessblades
I'm new to 3d printing . Bought it off impulse cause it was $450 Candian lol. Hopefully I made a good choice here....
Should I be messing around with firmware?
The fire station with the old light bulb is near San Francisco.
To prevent the blob when you take the filament out of the printer you should extrude a little bit of the filament then remove it immediately then you should not get the blob.
Another one of these? You must be from jersey, because you can't stop keeping up with the cartissians
Picard had a lot of trouble keeping up with them too.
@@BenHeckHacks I've been meaning to invert the arms on my delta printer & mount the assembly in an ikea shelf. Give it a raspberry pi & a 32-bit controller & crank the speed dial to 11. I'll give it a touch screen, & an lcars interface that launches a slicer, thingiverse, etc. Sidelit white glass bed panel. "Federation replicator"
Use alexa commands and you're closer to the "real thing"
@41:16 you mention the blob.. once you release the tension on the extruder motor, push the filiment in until some squirts out the tip, then quickly pull back a few inches. This action will mostly eliminate a balled-up end. That's pretty much what the multi-color extruder setups like @3dchameleon use in their color change code in the slicers.
I need a Ben's Pen's mug!
Man! I really love your videos, but now I love when your little kitten appears on scene!!!! Cheers from México (your #1 mexican fan) Ben!
I wonder if the fan is connected to the leveler for accessibility? Deaf people can put their hand near the fan to feel it blowing instead of the audible alarm.
Any plans on doing a video on the laser engraving capabilities?
Does this have resume function after power outage
I suspect the filament being quite soaked or was it vaccum packaged?
hi sir, can you please check if z axis and extruder has tmc2208 drivers?
The firmware can compile in -o3, at least, provided it's the 1.1.9 variant. I haven't had issues on a delta. Well, I have, but the glitches are more often than not cute than catastroptic
This printer uses the same mechatronics and board as the i3 mega/Mega S. So it suffers from the same problems. Extrusion steps need to be calibrated in some printers out of the box. Part cooling fan needs a better duct. This printer has the most loud fans i've ever heard.
Some tips for you:
*this printer seems to behave better with cura.
*straighten the bowden tube so the filament gets less drag inside the tube.
*for the love of god let the bed cool down before removing the print or you will ruin the ultrabase. Believe me, when it cools down you dont need any tool to renove the print
Is it using the fan as a speaker?
So I have been wanting to get a printer and a engraver which this is the first 2 n 1 I have came across were are ya at with it now buy or pass? Thanks
3D printers cannot mill very well because they are not built to resist deflection. People who try to put rotary heads onto 3D printers get poor results due to that. If you want two machines then buy two machines. Because the differences between the two combined will leave you with a machine that cannot perform either task particularly well.
knowing how Bud grows up, should of just got him some more packaging
Wait, you have a magnetic fridge? Or, did they send you a magnetic scraper?
Apologies if this has already been discussed, but could the "display board" actually be the main board (it has an Anycublic logo on it), and the other board is using the 2560 as essentially an IO expander?
Your bean burrito is done.
21:40 - Never gonna tell a lie*
(yes, i'm being pedantic about a rick astley song)
you have Ben rolled.
I still haven’t gotten rid of the packaging for my 3D printer, because my cat loves it too much. It’s her favorite bed.
I shot this a few weeks ago. Bud still sits in one of the foam pieces from the box.
Where is the STL for the cat toy???
I almost always print from the SD card. I've had numerous failures when the serial link between the computer and the printer failed, or the printer app crashed.
I've had very good results with Matter Hackers 'store brand' filament.
i just ordered one after watching this vid. wish me luck
I wish you luck, i also ordered one (the mega x) it's been more than a week, they hasn't shipped it yet, sent an email, 2 days later still no answer.
e-mailed them again to cancel the order and i ordered a creality cr10spro instead.
I'm pretty sure i'll have to claim the refund from my credit card because their customer service looks abscent.
@@ProbeGT2 not good, mine hasn't shipped yet either, fingers crossed i get it
If fast printing gets you excited, search the following on youtube: Printing at 800 mm/s on a FDM CoreXY - Can the HevORT do it?
it is pretty amazing in my book...
So what I'm seeing is that Anycubic seems to upgrade their printers incrementally. i3 Mega with some improvements becomes Mega S... Mega S with dual gear extruder feeder, better bed leveling knobs, better stepper drivers, and assisted bed leveling becomes Mega Pro. Yet they continue to use the same 8 bit main board, and same V5 J-Head hot end. That signature filament bulb on the unloaded filament tells me that. The print quality suffers from this design, and what happens is under extrusion due to restricted flow.
How long did it take to get? I've been waiting over 2 weeks with no clear answers from AnyCubic!
:O
@@SangheiliSpecOp It took nearly a month to receive. And over two months to get the spool of pla I ordered at the same time.
@@MrSneakyGunz damn I'm sorry to hear that. Is it working well for you? I'm somewhat new to 3d printing and this printer had a lot of glowing reviews
@@SangheiliSpecOp It does work well. I think you'll be happy with it. And I do NOT recommend getting it direct from AnyCubic, get it on Amazon instead. I had to threaten a chargeback before I got the pla.
I wish that I had purchased an idex printer from the start. I have 2 printers now. The TENLOG TL-D3 Pro has been a very good printer as well, albeit it was about twice the cost.
@@MrSneakyGunz thank you for sharing! I was thinking about getting it from Amazon, thats where I saw all of the reviews. I used to be very knowledgeable about 3d printing despite never having owned one, I did a ton on research but never pulled the trigger. I have since forgotten a lot but its slowly coming back to me haha.
Cat's prey is mouse sized, that's the size of toy they like.
Bud needs his own UA-cam channel!
Bens Bud Adventures
is all the stepper drivers tmc2208?
Bud the Cat ! We want more Bud videos !
love the cat, make a video just of ur cat playing with things please Xd
I've been 'Ben rolled'!
Darkman Cat! I'd watch that movie.
The smaller toy is better for cats. Also you supposed to put treats in the holes for when it moves a treat will come out.
Did I just get Rick rolled by Ben?
I liked your talk on this printer. Very detailed for a girl who knows nothing about these. (They're really just an oversized glue gun to us, but I liked learning about the components). Thanks. (p.s. only crazy people buy kittens cuz you're signing up for years and years of "dog energy" hahaha)
Bud Box would be a good movie for Netflix.
do the benheck things like previous video
My experience with cats is they become more aloof as they grow up. Animals are all individuals, so there are exceptions, but that is my experience.