This question is about tenacity and speed zone mixture, what’s the drying time before it rains where it will still be effective post emergent wise and also what’s the highest temperature that I could use this without having a problem? I’m in North Carolina and I have tall fescue and by the way I love your channel. Keep up the good work.
Heya, Ginja! Even though they are the same five steps, I always enjoy your diagnosis vids. The soil probe is my favorite lawn toy/tool. I use it when the neighbors are out, so they think I've got a secret weapon.
@@tinpony9424 1) Learn to recognize a joke. Someone that doesn't understand lawn care would not know why you're using a thermometer in your lawn. 2) I know what a probe does. I know what each macro and micro nutrient does. I rotate groups of fungicides and pre-emergents. I monitor how much phosphorus I put down to protect the environment, as well as other nutrients so they do not reach waterways and cause more problems through creeks, streams, rivers, all the way down to the Chesapeake Bay. 3) Please edit/remove your crude comment. It's uncalled for, especially when I did nothing to provoke this comment.
I'm in the Treasure Valley area of Idaho (Boise) and my lawn is a constant battle. I've applied everything known to man in the last 3 years; grub and insect granules, pesticide sprays, fungicide sprays and granules. My lawn could be declared a Super Fund sight at this point. Nothing, I mean nothing has helped. So, it's got to be watering or something in the soil (or not, a deficiency). I have aerated and de-thatched this spring. When digging to install new irrigation heads the soil seems okay. Maybe a bit clay as I get down, but the top layer seems loam with a tad of sand. I guess I'll get those cups and see what my watering output is. It gets so hot and dry here that even once in the morning does not seem to be enough, but that's a guess. I also live in the foothills in a high wind area so that contributes to the problem of water too. I suppose that's why they classify my area as "High Desert Valley within Alkaloid Foothills". Can't fight Mother Nature.
Love your videos Ginja! I completed all steps and am ready to apply "Revive". Can I apply this product in the middle of summer in Southern Utah where temps average 106 deg F? Andy difference in using granules over liquid Revive? I am afraid of burning the lawn. Thanks in advance for your help!
Imidacloprid is what the Gina suggests for spraying on your lawn, which also controls those grubs. It's probably still early enough to worth putting down to try and prevent more damage. Grubs are active most of the rest of the year. Once it's cool/cold, they don't really eat much or at all, and once spring comes back, they are turning into beetles and not eating. I typically apply around mid-April to May in my area. I think it lasts 3-4 months. Are you putting down a turf type that spreads like Zoysia or Kentucky Bluegrass? Depending on the size of the area, you may be able to plug if your turf type spreads like that.
Hi. Watched one of your videos about killing crabgrass. Question: My lawn is Zoysia. Recently I’ve discovered an invasion of crabgrass. I’m your video you mentioned a product Quali-Pro Dithiopy 2L. When should I apply this product? I plans to use a pump sprayer to apply. Thanks! Love your videos
Could you explain the reasoning behind why you suggest watering .5" per day for multiple consecutive days instead of watering longer (say .75" per day) when the soil is depleted of moisture? What is the benefit of watering shorter amounts over multiple consecutive days rather than forcing in more water per day while watering every other day for example? Thanks
This is great advice! I think the lawn problems I have with my lawn in the UK are very different. - We generally don't have sprinkler systems installed here as the weather is much cooler and it rains so much anyway. I think my lawn problems are down to heavy clay soil and poor drainage, but it's difficult to diagnose. My lawn is like the surface of the moon and bumpy and uneven all over. I have top dressed it twice with 50:50 fine sand/compost and reseeded it. It looked great just afterwards, then the following season it just looks horrendous and went super uneven and bumpy again so I had to re-do it. Now this year the lawn is a complete mess again, really uneven and looks worse than next doors lawn. They literally do nothing with it apart from cut it. They never fertilise, top dress, water it or anything and it looks better than mine. What am I doing wrong?
What's your lawn type? Have you used a soil probe like Ginga has to see how deep you can go before hitting clay? How much are you trying to raise the soil per top dressing? Maybe you're trying to do too much at once? Sand doesn't have any ability to hold nutrients or water. Maybe ask around locally if a mixture with less sand may be better.
@@Troy-Echo Thanks. Yeah maybe I should try a soil probe. I deliberately added the compost in the mix to add in nutrients, but a different ratio might be worth considering. I don’t think I used too much top dressing to smother the grass - I just used enough even out the undulations and mixed seed in with the top dressing. Could be compaction and poor draining. It could probably do with proper core aeration (not just a garden fork). I’ve even thought of installing french drains to help with drainage.
@@benjaminpeternorris Core aeration may be a good idea which would also allow water, air, fertilizers, amendments, etc., to easily reach the roots and boost microbial activity. Or you may try removing excess thatch. You could contact your local extension agency and see what they could tell you too about common issues local to you. They would know your soil type and what to do to help. Both Revive and Milorganite will add organic matter to boost microbe activity in the soil. Revive is better if you do not need to add phosphorus to the soil, where Milorganite adds a fair amount of phosphorus. Phosphorus is bad for the environment, so make sure your soil tests do say you need phosphorus before adding more. Soil tests are not that expensive these days. I'm not pointing a finger. I have 2 unopened boxes for soil tests sitting next to my desk waiting for me to do the same to be honest LOL. I used Soil Savvy last year and I wasn't happy with them. According to their results my NPK were all in the good range, and my iron was low. However, adding iron didn't make much difference, even after spraying liquid iron for a quick boost. When I put down fertilizers, such as the Milorganite I used recently, I had my spreader set a little too high and the outside pass is a good, dark green. Where I adjusted my spreader to put down less on the rest of the lawn, there are dark strips like a checkerboard with light areas in between. Since nitrogen and iron give your lawn that darker green, and the way my lawn is darker green where the Milo overlapped, my lawn has a slight checkerboard pattern. Maybe I should put some large chess pieces on the lawn to make people think it was intentional? I'm going to get some Revive (to avoid the phosphorus) and see if a little more nitrogen will fix those lighter green areas. I know I'm already behind on my nitrogen for this time of year, so I'm not going in doing totally blind.
I’m from the Midwest West of Chicago. Is gypsum is the only thing I can use to break down clay? that my lawn is basically on top of?? Good to see Rolls-Royce
What does it mean when the lawn has a slight browning mixed with lighter green, and when you do the pull test, the grass comes out to reveal a dusty-whiteish residue on the roots (which weren't deep)? It is Poa sort of decomposing while it's still planted or is it a fungus?
That sounds exactly like my lawn. I'd also like to know what the deal is. If I water enough to keep it from turning brown, I almost immediately get this same problem.
@@aredesuyoSounds like a drug dealer has been stashing his cocaine in your lawn. My bet would be on some type of fungus. Do either of you do preventative fungicidal treatments each fall and spring? Two things to consider. First, there are different groups of fungicides. Rotate groups to avoid building a resistance. Follow the label, but I don't think you should use the same group more than twice in a season (again, read the label). Second, you can put down granules, but I find applying a liquid version easier, faster and more cost effective. You can use a backpack sprayer, but I like using my Chapin style 362 professional hose end sprayer. There are typically two rates, one for a preventative, and double that rate for curative. So, obviously it's better for your wallet and lawn to put down the preventative rate twice a year, or whatever the label says for your fungicide. Once you notice the issue, you're already behind the 8-ball. I have Zoysia so it fills back in readily enough which I accidentally tested this year because I forgot my fungicide and pre-emergent last fall. I was reading a university study that says you can put down a fungicide in the summer and it will work, but not nearly as well as the spring or fall.
The lighter green may be indicating an iron or nitrogen deficiency too. Or as Ginja had in one video, the amount of salt in the soil could be a problem. A soil test should point you in the right direction. Do you get any darker green stripes when you put down fertilizer?
Jared does heat stress have the same appearance and patterns? I see some of the same patterns in my west facing lawn but screwdriver test shows 6" of penetration. Will liquid humic acid help heat stress?
heat stress commonly will show the same patterns. humic helps, but pottassium and sea kelp is commonly the best. I also like using some soil penetrants and some water retention products.
My lawn was looking so good. But just this last week I have these yellow patches not dry look. I water every night. 1main one that's 3-x4'. Probe core is wet 5" down clay soil which is odd in my sandy area. Maybe a fungus?
You shouldn't water every day. This will cause shallow roots and fungal issues. Those patches may be rust spots. Ginja has a video on this. I just found it, it's titled, "Classic case of over watering. As a Result the lawn has a rust fungus and stunted growth". That may help clue you in on your issue, or at least help. Watering at night can promote fungal issues, as well as promote shallow roots since all the water the lawn needs is in the top few inches. Watering early morning will allow the water to soak in before evaporating. Put down cups and measure the water output. You may consider watering for longer durations, but less frequently. It could be a fungus perhaps. Do you apply a fungicide each spring and fall? If not, you should. You also have to rotate groups of fungicides of you'll find fungal resistance issues. I skipped this step the first few years after renovating my lawn and I had a small ring spot in my lawn which was likely large patch. I figured it was due to fungus from a lot of water/moisture in the spring and too much lawn debris holding the moisture and creating a fungal issue. I raked thoroughly and the spot filled back in (Zoysia lawn). The following year the ring was back with a vengeance which matched my research on large patch. I applied a fungicide at a curative rate, then each fall and spring after with a preventative rate. Last year I had to do one extra application because we had so much rain and I had a white looking powdery substance in part of my lawn, but it was grey when I wiped it off with my fingers. The fungicide fixed this issue. I had issued this spring, but that's because I'd forgotten to put down my fungicide last fall, along with my pre-emergent, nor did I do my final mow at 1 inch when my Zoysia went dormant. So, this spring I had to pay for my sloth like inaction last fall. Now I keep a spreadsheet of everything I do, how much I apply, and the date. I even have the NPK ratios broken down mathematically to calculate how much of each has been applied with each application.
I can’t wait till we can water our lawns again. Right now outdoor use of municipal water is forbidden due to a main feeder pipeline blowing up in Calgary over a month ago.
This question is about tenacity and speed zone mixture, what’s the drying time before it rains where it will still be effective post emergent wise and also what’s the highest temperature that I could use this without having a problem? I’m in North Carolina and I have tall fescue and by the way I love your channel. Keep up the good work.
Heya, Ginja!
Even though they are the same five steps, I always enjoy your diagnosis vids. The soil probe is my favorite lawn toy/tool. I use it when the neighbors are out, so they think I've got a secret weapon.
👊🤩
Awww, does your lawn have a fever?
@@Troy-Echo Umm..the probe pulls out (soil) core samples. I use the same meat thermometer on my lawn as I use for seeing if your wife is ovulating.
@@tinpony9424 1) Learn to recognize a joke. Someone that doesn't understand lawn care would not know why you're using a thermometer in your lawn.
2) I know what a probe does. I know what each macro and micro nutrient does. I rotate groups of fungicides and pre-emergents. I monitor how much phosphorus I put down to protect the environment, as well as other nutrients so they do not reach waterways and cause more problems through creeks, streams, rivers, all the way down to the Chesapeake Bay.
3) Please edit/remove your crude comment. It's uncalled for, especially when I did nothing to provoke this comment.
I'm in the Treasure Valley area of Idaho (Boise) and my lawn is a constant battle. I've applied everything known to man in the last 3 years; grub and insect granules, pesticide sprays, fungicide sprays and granules. My lawn could be declared a Super Fund sight at this point. Nothing, I mean nothing has helped. So, it's got to be watering or something in the soil (or not, a deficiency). I have aerated and de-thatched this spring. When digging to install new irrigation heads the soil seems okay. Maybe a bit clay as I get down, but the top layer seems loam with a tad of sand.
I guess I'll get those cups and see what my watering output is. It gets so hot and dry here that even once in the morning does not seem to be enough, but that's a guess. I also live in the foothills in a high wind area so that contributes to the problem of water too.
I suppose that's why they classify my area as "High Desert Valley within Alkaloid Foothills".
Can't fight Mother Nature.
100% start with the water output cup test. after you get that dialed in then move onto a soil test. i prefer mysoil
@@pestandlawnginja Thanks very much for sharing your experience.
Excellent as usual my favorite series !
Glad you enjoy it!
Love your videos Ginja! I completed all steps and am ready to apply "Revive". Can I apply this product in the middle of summer in Southern Utah where temps average 106 deg F? Andy difference in using granules over liquid Revive? I am afraid of burning the lawn. Thanks in advance for your help!
Shoulda come to my lawn last week and snagged a video of my grub area. Got myself a little 6x6 reseeding project going on right now lol.
Imidacloprid is what the Gina suggests for spraying on your lawn, which also controls those grubs. It's probably still early enough to worth putting down to try and prevent more damage. Grubs are active most of the rest of the year. Once it's cool/cold, they don't really eat much or at all, and once spring comes back, they are turning into beetles and not eating. I typically apply around mid-April to May in my area. I think it lasts 3-4 months. Are you putting down a turf type that spreads like Zoysia or Kentucky Bluegrass? Depending on the size of the area, you may be able to plug if your turf type spreads like that.
Hi. Watched one of your videos about killing crabgrass.
Question: My lawn is Zoysia. Recently I’ve discovered an invasion of crabgrass. I’m your video you mentioned a product Quali-Pro Dithiopy 2L. When should I apply this product? I plans to use a pump sprayer to apply.
Thanks!
Love your videos
GREAT info video man.
Lawn 101 for everyone!
Thanks! Great to hear from you
Great stuff! 👍👍
Great tips. Thanks buddy!
What are your thoughts of Bermuda now approved for use in Utah?
Say bro. Can you point me in the right direction of growing grass in the Warm Season zone. I live in central Texas.
First Aussie 😁. Ginja , The Lawn Therapy class has begun. 😎
My man !
Could you explain the reasoning behind why you suggest watering .5" per day for multiple consecutive days instead of watering longer (say .75" per day) when the soil is depleted of moisture? What is the benefit of watering shorter amounts over multiple consecutive days rather than forcing in more water per day while watering every other day for example? Thanks
Only point is surface runoff. That's all. If your soil can intake higher amounts there's no problem 😊
Can you cut your lawn in the middle of the day. Let's say I get home around noon, and go to bed early. So, again can I cut my lawn at around 1pm.
Yes, you can
Indeed you can
Try to cut your lawn in the morning or late afternoon! Mow high and mulch (free fertilizer)
@@pestandlawnginja
Would watering right after help if one does water in the heat?
This is great advice! I think the lawn problems I have with my lawn in the UK are very different. - We generally don't have sprinkler systems installed here as the weather is much cooler and it rains so much anyway. I think my lawn problems are down to heavy clay soil and poor drainage, but it's difficult to diagnose. My lawn is like the surface of the moon and bumpy and uneven all over. I have top dressed it twice with 50:50 fine sand/compost and reseeded it. It looked great just afterwards, then the following season it just looks horrendous and went super uneven and bumpy again so I had to re-do it. Now this year the lawn is a complete mess again, really uneven and looks worse than next doors lawn. They literally do nothing with it apart from cut it. They never fertilise, top dress, water it or anything and it looks better than mine. What am I doing wrong?
What's your lawn type? Have you used a soil probe like Ginga has to see how deep you can go before hitting clay? How much are you trying to raise the soil per top dressing? Maybe you're trying to do too much at once? Sand doesn't have any ability to hold nutrients or water. Maybe ask around locally if a mixture with less sand may be better.
@@Troy-Echo Thanks. Yeah maybe I should try a soil probe. I deliberately added the compost in the mix to add in nutrients, but a different ratio might be worth considering. I don’t think I used too much top dressing to smother the grass - I just used enough even out the undulations and mixed seed in with the top dressing. Could be compaction and poor draining. It could probably do with proper core aeration (not just a garden fork). I’ve even thought of installing french drains to help with drainage.
@@benjaminpeternorris Core aeration may be a good idea which would also allow water, air, fertilizers, amendments, etc., to easily reach the roots and boost microbial activity. Or you may try removing excess thatch. You could contact your local extension agency and see what they could tell you too about common issues local to you. They would know your soil type and what to do to help. Both Revive and Milorganite will add organic matter to boost microbe activity in the soil. Revive is better if you do not need to add phosphorus to the soil, where Milorganite adds a fair amount of phosphorus. Phosphorus is bad for the environment, so make sure your soil tests do say you need phosphorus before adding more. Soil tests are not that expensive these days. I'm not pointing a finger. I have 2 unopened boxes for soil tests sitting next to my desk waiting for me to do the same to be honest LOL. I used Soil Savvy last year and I wasn't happy with them. According to their results my NPK were all in the good range, and my iron was low. However, adding iron didn't make much difference, even after spraying liquid iron for a quick boost. When I put down fertilizers, such as the Milorganite I used recently, I had my spreader set a little too high and the outside pass is a good, dark green. Where I adjusted my spreader to put down less on the rest of the lawn, there are dark strips like a checkerboard with light areas in between. Since nitrogen and iron give your lawn that darker green, and the way my lawn is darker green where the Milo overlapped, my lawn has a slight checkerboard pattern. Maybe I should put some large chess pieces on the lawn to make people think it was intentional? I'm going to get some Revive (to avoid the phosphorus) and see if a little more nitrogen will fix those lighter green areas. I know I'm already behind on my nitrogen for this time of year, so I'm not going in doing totally blind.
I’m from the Midwest West of Chicago. Is gypsum is the only thing I can use to break down clay? that my lawn is basically on top of??
Good to see Rolls-Royce
"A lawn STD" 🤣
My lawn's had a lot of them in past years, and I think it's gotten stronger for it.
🤣
Showing off those triceps in the thumbnail I see... 💪
I used to workout
I need to find out where I can buy one of the bear claws 😂
Looking for some lawn support if you have time let me know I’m In need. Located in California
What does it mean when the lawn has a slight browning mixed with lighter green, and when you do the pull test, the grass comes out to reveal a dusty-whiteish residue on the roots (which weren't deep)? It is Poa sort of decomposing while it's still planted or is it a fungus?
That sounds exactly like my lawn. I'd also like to know what the deal is. If I water enough to keep it from turning brown, I almost immediately get this same problem.
@@aredesuyoSounds like a drug dealer has been stashing his cocaine in your lawn.
My bet would be on some type of fungus. Do either of you do preventative fungicidal treatments each fall and spring? Two things to consider. First, there are different groups of fungicides. Rotate groups to avoid building a resistance. Follow the label, but I don't think you should use the same group more than twice in a season (again, read the label). Second, you can put down granules, but I find applying a liquid version easier, faster and more cost effective. You can use a backpack sprayer, but I like using my Chapin style 362 professional hose end sprayer. There are typically two rates, one for a preventative, and double that rate for curative. So, obviously it's better for your wallet and lawn to put down the preventative rate twice a year, or whatever the label says for your fungicide. Once you notice the issue, you're already behind the 8-ball. I have Zoysia so it fills back in readily enough which I accidentally tested this year because I forgot my fungicide and pre-emergent last fall. I was reading a university study that says you can put down a fungicide in the summer and it will work, but not nearly as well as the spring or fall.
The lighter green may be indicating an iron or nitrogen deficiency too. Or as Ginja had in one video, the amount of salt in the soil could be a problem. A soil test should point you in the right direction. Do you get any darker green stripes when you put down fertilizer?
Jared does heat stress have the same appearance and patterns? I see some of the same patterns in my west facing lawn but screwdriver test shows 6" of penetration. Will liquid humic acid help heat stress?
heat stress commonly will show the same patterns. humic helps, but pottassium and sea kelp is commonly the best. I also like using some soil penetrants and some water retention products.
My lawn was looking so good. But just this last week I have these yellow patches not dry look. I water every night. 1main one that's 3-x4'. Probe core is wet 5" down clay soil which is odd in my sandy area. Maybe a fungus?
You shouldn't water every day. This will cause shallow roots and fungal issues. Those patches may be rust spots. Ginja has a video on this. I just found it, it's titled, "Classic case of over watering. As a Result the lawn has a rust fungus and stunted growth". That may help clue you in on your issue, or at least help. Watering at night can promote fungal issues, as well as promote shallow roots since all the water the lawn needs is in the top few inches. Watering early morning will allow the water to soak in before evaporating. Put down cups and measure the water output. You may consider watering for longer durations, but less frequently. It could be a fungus perhaps. Do you apply a fungicide each spring and fall? If not, you should. You also have to rotate groups of fungicides of you'll find fungal resistance issues. I skipped this step the first few years after renovating my lawn and I had a small ring spot in my lawn which was likely large patch. I figured it was due to fungus from a lot of water/moisture in the spring and too much lawn debris holding the moisture and creating a fungal issue. I raked thoroughly and the spot filled back in (Zoysia lawn). The following year the ring was back with a vengeance which matched my research on large patch. I applied a fungicide at a curative rate, then each fall and spring after with a preventative rate. Last year I had to do one extra application because we had so much rain and I had a white looking powdery substance in part of my lawn, but it was grey when I wiped it off with my fingers. The fungicide fixed this issue. I had issued this spring, but that's because I'd forgotten to put down my fungicide last fall, along with my pre-emergent, nor did I do my final mow at 1 inch when my Zoysia went dormant. So, this spring I had to pay for my sloth like inaction last fall. Now I keep a spreadsheet of everything I do, how much I apply, and the date. I even have the NPK ratios broken down mathematically to calculate how much of each has been applied with each application.
Given the current heat wave here in Utah, 🥵, how often would you recommend watering, and what would be the best time of day?
See myallgreen.com/watering . It'll be between 1.75" to 2" of water per week
@@pestandlawnginja thanks! Love that you're back up and running!
Dont keep fallin for the liburul meedia it aint hot out it way coler then ever! TRUMP2020!
And a heat wave it's been. Dam
@elkskiutah8204 it's so hot, Shrek is in my pants arguing with my butt over whose swamp it is!
I can’t wait till we can water our lawns again. Right now outdoor use of municipal water is forbidden due to a main feeder pipeline blowing up in Calgary over a month ago.
That's not good