If I were to mess up and not be able push an insert through or push too far I would use an uncut tube and push them all out and start again. Thank you for breaking this assembly down step by step.
One quick suggestion... when you mark the lines, it may be useful to extend the one along the rear side of the aft spar the whole length. This will give you a useful reference line for the aileron hinges when we attach them at a later stage. Of lesser value, that line and the front line on the forward spar were a slight help in aligning the row of ribs.
Jon, I had to be the one who ruined a front spar tube! everything was fine untill I slid the 12 inch tube one the out ward side. The 1/8 inch hole drilled 5 inches in, had a burr that I though I was I was able to remove. Evidently there was a small piece left in there. The tube was about 15 inches in when it no longer moved. After much effort I decided to get another tube. You are very right in saying it is near imposible to to remove! I am very fortunate to have Airparts Inc. here in Kansas city to get another tube. This time I will slide the 12 inch tube to about 6 inches in before in drill that hole. Then slid it in to the 37 inch mark.
It must be the wide range of diameter tolerances that causes these issues. I have seen many tubes that never have an issue - then a batch that is just terrible! Sorry for the aggravation.
Aircraft fitter here. Should you be center punching aluminium? It's a strict no no in the certified aviation world as it can lead to fatigue. We use a small drill bit and hand turn it to center a hole.
Thanks for the clear and detailed guides. The tips on building are good. The only problem is I have to keep stopping to convert the old imperial measurements to the metric system. As some one from a country that uses the metric system i cannot fully think how big 12 foot is or what 3 inches is. I am reluctant to commit to build because most materials here are in metric sizes.
LOL Same issue the other direction - thousands of US builders assembling Zenith aircraft kits had to purchase metric tape rulers (as metric is pretty foreign to US builders) This was probably the big revelation to me at a young age to see the advantages of using and "going" metric! Not only does everything fit nicely into the power of 10 - the lovely millimeter is just the right size (instead of using about 1/32") for the smallest measurement you need when building. And then, can you imagine if the world spoke one language !!
I've been thinking the same thing, while I don't have problems envisioning imperial (except for small fractions of an inch), I'm thinking you would have to size everything upwards into metric to be safe, but I wonder how much extra weight that would involve.
1"=2.54cm, i rarely consider this 10"=254mm, i originally used this mainly with tires but now consider it frequently 2.2kg=1lb i use this a lot 0c=32f, 100c=212f, -40c=-40f, everybody knows these
Couple of things: When setting up your work bench for alignment of the front and back spars, you measured length and width, but didn't follow through with a diagonal measurement of the four corners which would guarantee the "squarness" of the wing. Any difference in this measurement will greatly affect wing to fuselage alignment later. Don't know if this is really important, but have done two pair of full lotus floats now that use tubing with the extra inserted piping at support points as used in the wing spars. They recommend making four cuts into each end of the inserts with a hack saw blade for 1/2 inch; this to prevent a hard spot at the end of the support tube. Think this is good idea?
Hi Dan, Setting up the wing fixture properly (getting both ends even) pretty much takes care of the squareness issue - altho what you describe certainly confirms squareness and is a good idea. Not sure I understand the "hard spot" issue - but I can see that the cuts would help shrink the ends a bit to allow a smooth journey inside the outer tube - but the fact that they are doing it on both ends means this is not their reason for this!
Two stringlines diagonal and then parallel with fix spacers from corner to corner and a sliding block of same height underneath the string will pick up a bend in any plane. level the table first.
#HomebuiltHELP Very detailed video, thoroughly enjoyed watching your build series. Question: Why not to take a larger diameter tubing for the sleeve and place it over the wing tube instead of locating it internally asnd constantly checking and rechecking whether the sleeve is at the correct postion or not. I believe the additon of sleeve is to add strength. Why not from outside?
If I were to mess up and not be able push an insert through or push too far I would use an uncut tube and push them all out and start again. Thank you for breaking this assembly down step by step.
Wow nother great share to video series. Well explained
When you measured and said hum, you sounded like my doctor after listening to my heart...
One quick suggestion... when you mark the lines, it may be useful to extend the one along the rear side of the aft spar the whole length.
This will give you a useful reference line for the aileron hinges when we attach them at a later stage.
Of lesser value, that line and the front line on the forward spar were a slight help in aligning the row of ribs.
Love the Midwest Hamms beer shirt dude!
I'm thoroughly enjoying the build, thanks so much!
Thanks Jon, thanks Steve; I'm thinking this series should end with a flight of two Aplanes ripping up the skies! ; )
Thanks Jon! That cat is a keeper!
Jon, I had to be the one who ruined a front spar tube! everything was fine untill I slid the 12 inch tube one the out ward side. The 1/8 inch hole drilled 5 inches in, had a burr that I though I was I was able to remove. Evidently there was a small piece left in there. The tube was about 15 inches in when it no longer moved. After much effort I decided to get another tube. You are very right in saying it is near imposible to to remove! I am very fortunate to have Airparts Inc. here in Kansas city to get another tube. This time I will slide the 12 inch tube to about 6 inches in before in drill that hole. Then slid it in to the 37 inch mark.
It must be the wide range of diameter tolerances that causes these issues. I have seen many tubes that never have an issue - then a batch that is just terrible! Sorry for the aggravation.
@@HomebuiltHELP Its all part of learning to build a plane. A wonderful adventure!
Aircraft fitter here. Should you be center punching aluminium? It's a strict no no in the certified aviation world as it can lead to fatigue.
We use a small drill bit and hand turn it to center a hole.
nice vid ! see ya next time .
Thanks for the clear and detailed guides. The tips on building are good. The only problem is I have to keep stopping to convert the old imperial measurements to the metric system. As some one from a country that uses the metric system i cannot fully think how big 12 foot is or what 3 inches is. I am reluctant to commit to build because most materials here are in metric sizes.
LOL Same issue the other direction - thousands of US builders assembling Zenith aircraft kits had to purchase metric tape rulers (as metric is pretty foreign to US builders) This was probably the big revelation to me at a young age to see the advantages of using and "going" metric! Not only does everything fit nicely into the power of 10 - the lovely millimeter is just the right size (instead of using about 1/32") for the smallest measurement you need when building. And then, can you imagine if the world spoke one language !!
@@HomebuiltHELP May be I should just build a Zenith! I already have the rulers!
I've been thinking the same thing, while I don't have problems envisioning imperial (except for small fractions of an inch), I'm thinking you would have to size everything upwards into metric to be safe, but I wonder how much extra weight that would involve.
1"=2.54cm, i rarely consider this
10"=254mm, i originally used this mainly with tires but now consider it frequently
2.2kg=1lb i use this a lot
0c=32f, 100c=212f, -40c=-40f, everybody knows these
Couple of things: When setting up your work bench for alignment of the front and back spars, you measured length and width, but didn't follow through with a diagonal measurement of the four corners which would guarantee the "squarness" of the wing. Any difference in this measurement will greatly affect wing to fuselage alignment later.
Don't know if this is really important, but have done two pair of full lotus floats now that use tubing with the extra inserted piping at support points as used in the wing spars. They recommend making four cuts into each end of the inserts with a hack saw blade for 1/2 inch; this to prevent a hard spot at the end of the support tube. Think this is good idea?
Hi Dan, Setting up the wing fixture properly (getting both ends even) pretty much takes care of the squareness issue - altho what you describe certainly confirms squareness and is a good idea. Not sure I understand the "hard spot" issue - but I can see that the cuts would help shrink the ends a bit to allow a smooth journey inside the outer tube - but the fact that they are doing it on both ends means this is not their reason for this!
Any ideas on how to make sure there isn't any twist in the table?
Two stringlines diagonal and then parallel with fix spacers from corner to corner and a sliding block of same height underneath the string will pick up a bend in any plane. level the table first.
#HomebuiltHELP Very detailed video, thoroughly enjoyed watching your build series.
Question: Why not to take a larger diameter tubing for the sleeve and place it over the wing tube instead of locating it internally asnd constantly checking and rechecking whether the sleeve is at the correct postion or not. I believe the additon of sleeve is to add strength. Why not from outside?
maravilhoso
Sir please with the size of each made....?
I noticed you were recording at 0500.
Watched this twice, where’s 23????
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I put You UP TO SPEED of 1.25 🚀🚀🚀🚀🚀🚀🚀🚀🚀🚀