It was in a BAD WAY (Resanding a Worn Out Dance Floor)
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2020
- There wasn't too much going on during the down-time caused by the illness that shall not be named. We could only sand floors in empty homes or closed down businesses. This was the first project that came through.
You cant get more of a basic floor sanding and refinishing job than this. The only difference between this and a domestic floor is that we put an extra coat on before we buff and put the final coat down. 1 Primer 3 top coats of 2 component polyurethane. This is a commercial standard finish. I have a link for the lacquers and rollers I used in this video, all available from Amazon.
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BONA TRAFFIC HD LINKS (you can change the sheen level you want)
UK amzn.to/370RXK8
USA amzn.to/34M9Nz2
BONA PRIMER (SEALER)
UK amzn.to/38agTkr
USA amzn.to/2VoYhHW
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LINKS FOR ACCESSORIES
Roller For Lacquer
UK amzn.to/2Zl6OfV (the same roller used in the video for lacquering)
USa amzn.to/34J4xfL
Roller For Stain
UK amzn.to/35NMTbL
USA amzn.to/34LAu71
Rags For Stain
UK amzn.to/2EG1pXg
USA amzn.to/2Q721um
Respirator (face mask)
UK amzn.to/39gcqg8
USA amzn.to/2USdr7s
howtosandafloor.com - Навчання та стиль
People don't understand how expensive is all the equipment required to do a correct job. Great job.
I'm really enjoying all your videos - lots of great information about wood floors, their care, and restoration. Thanks for posting high quality content.
FANTASTIC!!! Awesome job. For the ones looking for the B/A pics, compare 0:39 with 9:05
My man! Great work. As a former (20 year) wood floor guy, seeing it done correctly on UA-cam is awesome. Lagler equipment is the best. The Hummel and Trio CAN NOT BE BEAT. Loved using Bona products as well. Keep up the awesome work.
the hummel can be beaten by the old repex ;)
Cheers Jeff. Out of curiosity what do you do now?
I've been a flooring contractor for 43 years, and you did a great job here. I second what Jeff said--it's nice to see professionally-done floors on UA-cam.
5:00 is gorgeous! people have been seeking this look since the 70s when the scanda, zen, and minimalist styles first began gaining in popularity. so nice and clean, mod and airy. the wood is allowed to reveal its beauty in the most natural state - total freshness. people need to learn about keeping it just as it is - protected yet smooth, light, and clear! no street shoes allowed, though. just leave them at the door - so easy!
As a floor sander myself thats an excellent professional job, thorough and proper due care and techniques. You ever need a hand give me a shout, i have 6-7 yrs experience. Good work man.
Gorgeous! I love hard word floors!
Thank you brother parquet for your videos!
The floor was absolutely devastated mate. Well done 👍🏼
Nice job, I've been doing floors for over 30 years and bona does have the best product by far. When I seal a floor on the first coat, I will let it dry and than abridge with a purple pad. I do this with all the coats except for the last coat where i will use a 220 screen. Does amazing job.
Loba finishes from Germany kick ass on anything bona makes..trust me!
Fantastic job !
Very nice job, amazing how good a floor can be when someone with years of experience does the work.
Cheers Greg, this job was unreasonably hard tbh
Beautiful! Great work
Great stuff. I've just bought a house in Detroit and they painted the hardwood floors. Can you believe it. #worktodo
Awesome job fantastic!!!
What a great job you have done there
I love it.. beautiful work Great job man.
Perfection!
Looks amazing
Cheers Jim 🍻
Festool all the way bro. I use a ride on sander for gym floors in Canada . That dance studio was pretty bad but you should see some of the things i have to take out lol! Great vid, great work, very informative. Keep it up bro!
Finally some real skill displayed. It's simply brilliant. (pun intended ;) )
Very well Done
I bet they were thrilled to get back on that floor and dance!
Mirka for is brother lol keep up the good work I also love the Rotex but for finish sanding like on furniture we use the mirka for heavy sanding or cutting it scratch removal or varnish removal we use the rotex also great video keep me coming bubba
To be fair, they are being spoiled with rotex finish on a commercial job, most other companies will finish 80 on the edger lol
great job
Wow! Again it's really great. Put your camera on a tripod, put on a nice suit and dance across the floor. The music is the best!!! Thank you. Can you come to California and finish our floor?
Nice job mate
Just spents 6 hours of my day off watching you sand wooden floors! Am I going mad or just insane!!
This video deserves more then a like and subscribe..this video deserves a million views big toms up
Very good video I learned a lot ...Looks like they are 4 people working there..never mind there’s a mirror on the back ...
The floor looks absolutely stunning, now this is what I call professional hardwood refinishing! It kind of reminds me of when I used to do high end auto paint correction. Ensuring that every square inch is nearly perfect or better than new. For automobiles "new" does not equate to perfect paint. Brooms are used to clean all the new cars before after sale of cars, including Lamborghinis . Yes, it is quite shocking. Even more shocking when you're actually watching them do it.
Can you give a ball park figure of what a floor refinishing like this would cost. I realize that it could vary widely by region but it's just a personal curiosity. I've had a 60 year old home renovated and red oak floors restored to something similar. And am in the process of looking for another home which I would like to do the same. I'm not even sure if it's possible to refinish with today's modern hard wood floors is it just the same.
It’s 3-5$ a foot in most cases for a good guy. I did this cheaper as it was a big square area, standard commercial finish
Great video, super helpful. What grit do you buff the floor at (between finish coats)? Or do you use scotchbrite pads?
There’s no way the camera does this floor’s beauty justice.
Great video. The only thing I do different is to use mirka deros instead of festool on edges after. I'm always wondering If I should have got the festool 🤔
Just invested in the flex 150 sander actually which looks great
if you ever do a basketball court or something like that, i think it would be interesting to see how you handle the stripes.
I did a badminton court about 2-3 weeks ago. Not done the full basketball court yet. It’s very competitive in that market
Hi I have been sanding floors for over 40 years
Great video. What was the final grit size? Didnt catch it. I have a conservtory floor to smooth and finish.
How would you suggest doing a hallway with the boards running opposite the long length of the space? Strictly use an edger like a closet or sand the boards across the grain with a drum sander?
Edger for sure
We usually finish the edges with 100 or 120 in darker stains, and we buff with 150, and hand sand with sand dollar pad, then we coat the floors with 6 inch brush by hand
Very similar to me, I haven’t used the dollars yet but I’m tempted, would never apply by brush 😂 my back would break
Seeing that floor makes me regret choosing polyurethanic lacker! Your tuttorials helped us get a nice and even sanding on our parquet floor, but we are having problems with minuscule bubbles forming all over on the third coat of polyurethane, even after 48hs of drying of the second coat (wich came out nicely). Have you worked with this material?? (we use Lackol K-4045)
Great floor,great video. I used the drum sander and stained it now thinking about what finish I am wondering whether to oil or poly it. If you worried about shaky ness try a gimble out there are some pretty inexpensive handheld ones.
The dirt around my house is VERY sandy. I have three dogs who have a dog door so they can come and go outside but what it means is that they track a LOT of dirt inside! My 100+ year old house has old oak flooring which I refinished when first bought the house but has essentially been "sanded down" because of 5+ years of constant dirt being brought it. Basically, the sand has "sanded" off the polyurethane I used and left me with bare and very dirty floors. Its there a product available (in the US) that you would recommend house on floors with high traffic and dirt/sand? How often should I be re-coating or refinishing them?
Thanks! And You're videos are great!
Bona Natural Primer + 3 coats Traffic Natural for the win.
Liked and subbed 🙏🏻
I have watched most of your videos and have an old house with original floors, ~1820's. The boards are very bowed, so the joins are like ridges. What's the best advice for these? Do i just have to be brutal and sand them level?
This is called cupping and is caused by the moisture on the underside being higher than the level of moisture on the top surface. If it's been like this for a long time and hasn't change then yes you can sand it. If the cupping is too bad, it might be a problem
Hi Mate, great video very helpful, I bought a little Caff down in Brighton where I live.
I like to do my Tables because the are scrutchet and sticky, previews owner used 2 coats of clear OSMO. I have 5 tables of seater. 5 Tables of 4 seater..
Can help what sander should I buy please, and what primer and top coats should I use. How many coats of primer and how many top coats.
Many thanks Alton
You didn’t edge after the 60 80 and 100 grit? Did you remove the ridge with the rotex? We usually finish with 80 grit on the big machine then do one edge, pull corners and then trio and palm sand.
We usually don’t have much of a ridge, the trio does most of the work of smoothing the transition. We have started using 3m cubitron 2 on the rotex. I regularly go from 36 edge to 120 rotex because of these cubitrons. And they will last for ages. If there’s one thing you need to do right now is try these cubitrons on the rotex. Whole other ball game. 🙌🏽
That's the kind of layout I'd be using the t bar on.
I would if I could use the damn thing properly, I always get lines on the trailing edge. Tried going faster slower, slight twist on the back end on the front end. Given up
@@HowToSandAFloor gotta pad out after each run. I've pretty much given up too. Been a while since I barred a floor.
evsnova74 wow, that’s saying something because you are the master of barring
@@HowToSandAFloor this is why I gave up on the t-bar and only roll now. I swear I used to be able to do it without the line though 🤔
T bar is excellent for large areas , trick is to take it nice and slow and steady , maintain a wet edge ,,
How would you suggest tackling black mastic? I discovered a THICK layer of it under the dining room carpet, over top of beautiful hardwoods. It’s about 500 sqft of space. I a,m going to get it tested for asbestos, but I’m feeling overwhelmed at the task!
What sheen was that Bona? Satin? Semi-gloss? It’s gorgeous!
I am going to tackle my engineered oak top 7mm flooring at home. Hopefully to save a bit of cash. Any tips would be appreciated. I am going to use the bona mix after your recommendation. Your work is amazing by the way. Enjoy watching your videos.
How thick is the wear layer on your floor and how beat up is it?
Nice work. Noticed you didn't fill coat this time. I'm thinking of skipping it. Some gaps but nothing too crazy.
It was a sprung floor and maple expands and contracts a lot throughout the year, it would have come out and looked terrible. Cheers 🍻
Definitely worth like And subscribe
I like how the wood doesnt turn orangy after putting on the finish. Is this because of the product your using? BONO?
Never did a floor but I use water on wood to bring up the grain before the final sanding. Makes it smooth as a babies but. Would this help of hinder a project like this??
I would suggest showing a before and after still at the end of your video =)
Lol. That's. A 1 day sand job. Get a set of duels, with a Ryder. You also dont need a trio, you can burnish with a dull 60 grit.
Could've been super dope if bunch of house dancers running into the new floor and start cyphering.
Thanks for the video! Using a polyurethane, don't you need to sand after each coat? Or is it just needed before the final coat?
You are correct. With oil-poly, you have to lightly sand between successive coats. 150-grit or higher is preferred.
This is fascinating. I work at a dance studio that needs a wood floor like this redone. Can I ask, what is a ballpark figure for fixing a floor like this? Is it easy to do on our own or is it better to try and hire professional?
it took me and my bro 3 days, thats with years of experience and professional machines. Without the knowledge and with normal rental machines and cheap abrasives, youre talking a week atleast for a finish that wont look anywhere near as good. This dance floor was busy 7 days a week until the shutdowns. You think about the lost earnings and it becomes clearer that getting a professional is the right way to go
I love the rotex for aggressive sanding but it sucks on orbital mode. Too easy to stop the pad. The ETS EC festools are way better for fine finishing
What power source did you use for the Hummel?? Looks like your plugging it into the wall? How is that so if the drum sander needs 220 V?
He's in UK which has 230V
I've just bought a house where the previous owner refinished about 1100 sq feet of wood floors and left them somewhat rough (air bubbles, dust trapped under polyurethane?). Do you believe that we could try to just buff the top coat of poly and lay down another coat?
I have a new house and we put down light colored engineered hardwood floors that are very very very matte (as in not shiny at alllll) they look SO dull I can’t stand it! Can I put a clear coat of polyurethane on them? If so do I need to sand first? I think their pretty thin like 1mm real wood on top and it’s almost brand new so I wouldn’t wanna sand it
Did you use three coats of Bona Traffic? I’ve seen other videos, where they only use traffic for the final coat because of the hardness. I think they used satin for the first two coats.
What do you recommend?
Pound one top layer of traffic is better than none, but three coats of traffic is better than that still. Much better. If I’m honest doing traffic for only the top coat is a bit of a cheap cheat. This is a commercial floor. It’s going to receive a lot of wear and tear, it needs to be properly protected.
Thank you.
Wow beautiful! What kind of hardwood is this?
Maple
The finish/top coat, is it none slip? I need to strip and Polish/wax a dance floor, but they need a slippery finish/surface.
Hey man. I bought your guide in 2017. I am not on a leave of absence from work until April due to Covid. I have lots of time on my hands. Do you think refinishing my floors with a festool rotex 150 is feasible? Thanks for these videos!
I hope you didn't try this. I've done a room and hallway with a 4x24 and 36 grit belts (starting) and mostly hand scraper, respectively, finished with a dual most sander. It's a rough time even if you have an ideal floor with no deep dents, and depending on what's on your floor , you may just gum up discs in a hurry and then the gum-up will bruise the floor on rotary mode.
Rookie Question. Why did you use a drum sander in the beginning? Why didn't you use the large circular sander in the beginning?
how much would that be to do exactly the same dance floor? incl.materials. price per sq.m?Not London.North west
If you google you can find me and my company fairly easily, fill in the contact us form and I can give you a per square metre price.
Have you got a manual for your edger ?
how are you plugging the hummel in to those regular outlets?
Which machine do you use for buffing? Which machine for sanding?
Hey, I am learning how to sand floors and right now I have a practice pine floor to start out on. I was just wanting to ask you if you have tips on how to handle a soft pine floor. There’s not much on UA-cam about pine, so I wanted to ask if you have a general grit sequence you follow for this type of floor? Love the videos!! Respect your craft. 🙂
For soft wood like pine i like to try and only run 1 or 2 grits. Use a rough grit like 36 to grind off finish and a slightly finer grit like 80 just to wipe away some heavy sand marks. I dont like using to many grits because it's easy to sand to tongue and groove because of how soft is. Once your done with the 80 buff super good with 80 grit. Seal it up buff it out with 220 grit to smooth it. And apply as many coats needed after
With maple or oak i run 36 80 then 120
220v at every outlet must make life easier!
Unless he's running a 110 machine
What’s That last song lol? Great work
I have a maple hardwood flooring for my dance studio. Just can't get the finish to adhere to Tap dancing. Third time refinishing. What is the best poly to use?
Are you just overcoating it? If so you may have to resand it after having a failed attempt at an overcoat
How long did this take start to finish? Two days?
I just did 1300 Sq foot removal of top layer with a Pullman spider, with a diamabrush.
Then a 40, 60, 80, 100- in another few hours.
So much faster.
Very nice... What grit was the final sanding 120? and buff? 150?
100 trio (silicon carbide, very smooth) 150 buff
Thanks for the reply.....I will try that.
@@HowToSandAFloor Hi , would 150 on the trio be too much for the final buff before the final top coat? thanks
@@1larock the trio is just a bit heavy tbh. Take the weight off and it could work as long as you’re quick.
@@HowToSandAFloor Thanks Ben!
do you polish or wax after finish is cured?
No, just let it dry and done.
I'm suspicious that grit grades are not so standard across brands and locations. Someone told me that when they used 40 grit (same as my brand) to start a job it was way to aggressive and left deep grooves that took a long time to get out on higher grits. He suggested me to try and start at 80. He said would level and be enough. So I'm wondering if my 80 will be your 40. Possible right? Edit: started job. Yes. I soon realised that 40 grit is just enough. If I were to do it again i would go one lower. Done 40, then 80 and will do 120 next day. Result. Good enough for older house. For new house I'd do more.
No, there are variations between manufacturers but not that great. That guy probably didn’t know what he was doing. I’ve sanded floors with 16 grit, as long as you progress your grits properly it always comes out with the next grit just fine. The grooves could have been misuse of the machines, wheels not set properly, unevenness in the floor while sanding straight and having the machine tilted. Unless your floor is new 80g is very high to be starting the sanding process.
Wow! How many years of wear was that?
I’m not sure but I’m going to guess atleast ten
By the way what are your thoughts on Tung Oil and using citrus solvent for eco friendly product
I have heard tung oil is good, but my experience of oils are that they are all not very durable and susceptible to spills. I’ve never heard of this citrus solvent thing
@@HowToSandAFloor the citrus solvent is to thin out the Tung oil for better absorption
The Chicago accent sure has changed
I put the third coat of tung oil on last week. It's looking great. I found your videos and pdfs really useful. I used bona mix and fill like you recommended.
I made the mistake of getting out the vacuum between coats. Do not do this. Made a lovely scratch. But the third coat mostly hides it. Also brought out all the lines where the belt sander was put down. So try to lift up only on the edges. Orbital sander took the longest, after picking nails. Think I went through about 25 orbital pads all up.
You have to vacuum between coats, just use a vacuum that doesn’t have a hard surface in contact with the floor (brush head!)
@@HowToSandAFloor thanks for correcting him
Hi there. When you buffed in-between coats of poly, what grit did you use? Thanks!
150g
@@HowToSandAFloor Thanks. Btw, your videos are the best, but I'm sure you know that. I have a screen printing business, and bought an old building on my towns main st. Above it is an old dance hall that was covered in carpet. I ripped out the carpet and this weekend I'll be sanding the old floors. I've watched all your videos and I think I'm ready to take on this project. Thanks again.
@@revolutioninprint8906 how big is the dance floor?
@@HowToSandAFloor It's maybe a little bigger than the one in this video
I don't have edge sander like your what is option thanks good man
Im not sure what you mean
I mean I don't have the edge sander that you used on your project what is the second option I can used to sanding the edge please help I have the sanding belt for middle floor big
hi can you tell me what the filler liquid is please
Had problems clogging the paper while buffing? Sometimes I get with WB bona products. But yes, bona products are the easiest to apply.
I have, usually just needs another half an hour to hour to dry a bit more, atleast in my experience
@@HowToSandAFloor Even bone dry waterborne finish will clog while buffing, Change your paper when you hear a squeaking type of sound. That buildup on the pad will cause scuffing that don't completely disappear in the final coat.
-Nicolas Gonzalez
Installer/Refinisher @ D.J. Williamson and sons wood flooring, serving the Palm Beaches for over 30 years.
Hi there. Nice job. I'm semi retired (79) wood floor restorer.
I have a clarke
American belt floor sander for sale it interested. I've had it approx 8yrs. but hardly ever used.
I have Hummel like yours for my main one
Cost £4500
Will sell for £1500
David Dring
With me the camera shake gets worse when Im tired or in pain from the work. I take most of it out with Davinci software. PM me on Facebook Ill send you a link to the free version.
Are you in the nyc area?
Are you running the Lagler off of 120 volt?
240, sanders can’t work on 110
Hes using a sander from an outlet🤣 is insane
What you're calling primer is it also called sanding sealer ?
Yes, that's a sealer.
how much would that be to do exactly the same dance floor?
Hi there, if you google you can find me and my company fairly easily, fill out the contact form and I’ll send back a per square metre price.
Is aluminum oxide not a good option for these heavily used areas?
Great question, for one thing ali oxide contains formaldehyde so it’s band from being used in application in the UK. But also aluminium oxide is tougher but more brittle in the sense that it will sooner crack than bend. So dents have cracks round them and can lead to air and water getting in and damaging the surface further. More maliable finishes keep a seal when dented.
What grit did you use to buff the floor with the trio
60,80 and 100
Thanks for the info. I was wondering if you'd started with 60.
I know this isn't a thing to ask but, how much would you price a job like that?
Very much depends where and who you are. Also we price per metre in pounds and Americans price in dollars per foot
For 3 coats of Traffic HD I'd be at $6 per sq foot.
Thank you so much sirs