Jimmy, a Decoder Buddy for an HO or larger locomotive uses any 21-pin decoder available from any DCC manufacturer. It eliminates wire color coding by using well labeled pads to solder to. The available pads include pads for lights, speakers, stay alives as well as track and motor pads. A soldering iron does not come close to the decoder itself. The Decoder Buddy has a small daughter board that disconnects from the motherboard allowing the frame and shell to be separated. Up to 12 lighting outputs are available if the decoder supports that many. All the lighting outputs have resistors onboard so one only needs to add raw LEDs. Larry Puckett has said good things about the Buddy and shown an installation of the smaller Decoder Buddy Mini. Larry Linger, "Solo Contracting" also here on UA-cam shows very complete installations on a number of different locomotives and uses Decoder Buddys regularly in these videos. His soldering techniques are superb. I buy new and old locomotives with no decoder if they are available so I can install my favorite manufacturer's 21 pin decoder. I agree that the 21-pin decoders are usually more robust for older locomotives. Hope this helps!!!
As a Soundtraxx Factory Trained Installer, the newer locomotives that use N18 and 21PNEM decoders are super easy installs. If going with an older form factor decoder type, best to keep wires as short as possible as those do take up space. Something to look into on the very old locomotives is to test the motor's Amp Stall. If it's higher than the decoder is rated for, you can fry that decoder. I've seen that happen several times on an HO switcher with using a N scale decoder. Soundtraxx has videos on their decoders on installations and programming and you can call them for basic troubleshooting if you bought their decoders. Great episode Jimmy! - Jason
I am on the West Coast at the moment. Here, it is shortly after 4 a.m. and I am drinking, not coffee, but a gin and tonic! Thanks for your videos, Jimmy!
One word of advice for folks converting older non DCC ready locomotives with a new decoder; invest in a set of magnifying glasses. I wear reading glasses and it was not enough. With the magnifier glasses the installation went so much easier.
Getting ready for my second cup of Joe, black rifle still… did conversion to my Spectrum WMD BL2… (also had to add new gears)… great to see that one run again. Hello to my fellow Lumbees.
One other benefit of upgrading the motors on older locomotives is that the newer motors are generally much smaller, buying you extra space inside the locomotive. This has been helpful for me especially with smaller, older locomotives such as converting HO scale 19th century 4-4-0s, where space is so tight that the motor is located in the tender.
I have been with DC for a long time. I have some locomotives that I know can never be converted to DCC... One is an old Lifelike Proto 2000 GP7 which is my favorite locomotive.
Jimmy, I just turned in an article on hard wiring a DCC decoder in a 1996 Atlas GP 9 in N scale to MMR. I use a digitrax DZ126T on the conversions both Atlas and Kato. I mill the frames myself I always use safety glasses and a particle mask while milling the frames. I have been using a dremel drill press to mill with but just upgraded to a MF70 Proxxon milling machine, I do a lot of convert in N scale a HO so it is worth the cost to me. The DCC Guy has some great content but he dose tend to over explain but have learned a lot on his channel.
Thanks Jimmy. I was amazed at some of the prices of used locos that you showed. They are not nearly as cheap in the UK or Europe. Pity postage from your country is so expensive as it pushes the costs up far too much.
Very cool and thank you. Just finished installing the last switch decoder in my yard. I am using DCC-EX, JMRI and WiThrottle to run my railroad. I'm looking forward to the day when all is WiFi.. no more wires.......!!!
Good information. I am just starting to convert my fleet of N-scale locomotives to DCC with sound. Definitely easier if the locomotive was offered that way from the factory. Drinking English Breakfast tea from Starbucks.
One thing that I tell anyone about. I have only been into DCC for a couple of years. However, I learned a few lessons the hard way. Since I have been in n scale since I was only 6 years old and I have my first engine and it runs 50 years later. That brings me to say I have a number of older DC engines. Less now, two that the motors burned out. And yes, they are old engines, but my experience tells me the one engine shouldn't have burned out like it did. I believe it was running them on the DCC system. That is said can be done safely. My personal feelings are that the older DC motors just can't handle the load they weren't ever intended for. If you want to run Old Timers on your DCC system? By all means convert them to DCC or have your layout setup to easily run pure DC.
While some DCC systems have a way to run DC, the constant voltage supplied to the track is hard on motors. Converting to DCC allows for the decoder to control the voltage which is easier on the motor.
Excellent video Jimmy, thank you. You are correct Larry Puckett the DCC Guy has a great channel with a lot of detail. He also has another channel dedicated to British Rail.
My favourite decoder for n scale switchers like the Lifelike SW1200 is the TCS Z2 - very small and fits in tiny spaces. No sound and limited lighting functions but you don’t need many for a switcher.
There's a type of decoder/installation that you didn't mention. TCS makes the CN and CN-GP (differ in how the LEDs are placed) that works with many pre-DCC ready split frame locomotives from Kato, Atlas, and Life-Like. These are popular locos from the early '90s to the mid '00s. The decoder replaces the light boards in the loco. You still have to solder motor leads, and connections between the boards, but no or minimal frame modification is needed. And upvote for Larry Puckett's channel, and TCS's detailed installation guides.
There is a brand of locomotives that I have that I really want to replace all the decoders, but I am definitely scared to attempt any converstions ourside of drop in decoders.
Really helpful video, thanks for this. Related question: Hornby in the UK has a new bluetooth-based DCC product (HM 7000). It appears to be 'bleeding edge' tech so far from perfect, but looks really promising and has some very cool features. While the product isn't a great fit for anything other than a limited range of British profile locos, what are your thoughts on taking a wait-and-see attitude to see how this plays out, and whether North American manufacturers start offering something similar? Again, thanks for this great video. Fears averted!
Still drinking COSTA RICAN TARRAZU coffee. I ordered 6 Blunami Decoders. Looking forward to be anal and install them. I am going to use one of them to power-up micro relays that run switches and frogs.
Tim Edge I have a Broadway Limited SD 40-2 DCC. I run DC set up. Wondering if you know how to convert it to DC only. It works on DC but can't run along with my other DC locos.
Ok you always seem to ask for imput. So i have a question! What is the oldest engine you own and is there any story behind it? I will say my first I still have and run it is a minitrix 0-6-0 little donkey from about 1966.
I remember when DCC first came out for ho and all the magazines raved about it like it was the greatest thing since sliced bread 🍞. For those of us who did not have clubside layouts to run it did not make any sense economically or otherwise to get DCC. When I modeled in HO scale for over 50 years I had conventional control only. Now that I am now in to 3 railroad gauge because I model subway car trains and the Penn Central so I can get away with having a third rail even if it is not outside third rail. I run 95% conventional controlled engines and the ones that have PS2 with the sound effects and all that crap ola they stay in the box because I'm tired of arguing with the computer to shut itself off 📴. The last thing I want to do is argue with my toy trains 🚂🚃. All of the b******* electronics in today's toy trains regardless of scale and a ridiculous amount to the high prices that they ask for things. Electronics have a low shelf life if you use them they go bad if you don't use them they delaminate in time so you are damned if you do and damned if you don't.conventional trains that are nice and simple just need a little bit of grease and oil in the right places and they will last you forever.
Jimmy, a Decoder Buddy for an HO or larger locomotive uses any 21-pin decoder available from any DCC manufacturer. It eliminates wire color coding by using well labeled pads to solder to. The available pads include pads for lights, speakers, stay alives as well as track and motor pads. A soldering iron does not come close to the decoder itself. The Decoder Buddy has a small daughter board that disconnects from the motherboard allowing the frame and shell to be separated. Up to 12 lighting outputs are available if the decoder supports that many. All the lighting outputs have resistors onboard so one only needs to add raw LEDs. Larry Puckett has said good things about the Buddy and shown an installation of the smaller Decoder Buddy Mini. Larry Linger, "Solo Contracting" also here on UA-cam shows very complete installations on a number of different locomotives and uses Decoder Buddys regularly in these videos. His soldering techniques are superb. I buy new and old locomotives with no decoder if they are available so I can install my favorite manufacturer's 21 pin decoder. I agree that the 21-pin decoders are usually more robust for older locomotives. Hope this helps!!!
As a Soundtraxx Factory Trained Installer, the newer locomotives that use N18 and 21PNEM decoders are super easy installs. If going with an older form factor decoder type, best to keep wires as short as possible as those do take up space. Something to look into on the very old locomotives is to test the motor's Amp Stall. If it's higher than the decoder is rated for, you can fry that decoder. I've seen that happen several times on an HO switcher with using a N scale decoder. Soundtraxx has videos on their decoders on installations and programming and you can call them for basic troubleshooting if you bought their decoders. Great episode Jimmy! - Jason
I am on the West Coast at the moment. Here, it is shortly after 4 a.m. and I am drinking, not coffee, but a gin and tonic!
Thanks for your videos, Jimmy!
One word of advice for folks converting older non DCC ready locomotives with a new decoder; invest in a set of magnifying glasses. I wear reading glasses and it was not enough. With the magnifier glasses the installation went so much easier.
Just a Lone Star Beer Jimmy kicking back
This video is most encouraging. Thanks, Jimmy.
Gary, The DCC Guy is great, but sometimes he gets so technical that it blows my mind.
Getting ready for my second cup of Joe, black rifle still… did conversion to my Spectrum WMD BL2… (also had to add new gears)… great to see that one run again. Hello to my fellow Lumbees.
Thanks for sharing and the encouragement.
One other benefit of upgrading the motors on older locomotives is that the newer motors are generally much smaller, buying you extra space inside the locomotive. This has been helpful for me especially with smaller, older locomotives such as converting HO scale 19th century 4-4-0s, where space is so tight that the motor is located in the tender.
I have been with DC for a long time. I have some locomotives that I know can never be converted to DCC... One is an old Lifelike Proto 2000 GP7 which is my favorite locomotive.
Jimmy, I just turned in an article on hard wiring a DCC decoder in a 1996 Atlas GP 9 in N scale to MMR. I use a digitrax DZ126T on the conversions both Atlas and Kato. I mill the frames myself I always use safety glasses and a particle mask while milling the frames. I have been using a dremel drill press to mill with but just upgraded to a MF70 Proxxon milling machine, I do a lot of convert in N scale a HO so it is worth the cost to me. The DCC Guy has some great content but he dose tend to over explain but have learned a lot on his channel.
Thanks Jimmy. I was amazed at some of the prices of used locos that you showed. They are not nearly as cheap in the UK or Europe. Pity postage from your country is so expensive as it pushes the costs up far too much.
Shout out NC!
Very cool and thank you. Just finished installing the last switch decoder in my yard. I am using DCC-EX, JMRI and WiThrottle to run my railroad. I'm looking forward to the day when all is WiFi.. no more wires.......!!!
no coffee but love my ice tea unsweet
Good information. I am just starting to convert my fleet of N-scale locomotives to DCC with sound. Definitely easier if the locomotive was offered that way from the factory. Drinking English Breakfast tea from Starbucks.
One thing that I tell anyone about. I have only been into DCC for a couple of years. However, I learned a few lessons the hard way. Since I have been in n scale since I was only 6 years old and I have my first engine and it runs 50 years later. That brings me to say I have a number of older DC engines. Less now, two that the motors burned out. And yes, they are old engines, but my experience tells me the one engine shouldn't have burned out like it did. I believe it was running them on the DCC system. That is said can be done safely. My personal feelings are that the older DC motors just can't handle the load they weren't ever intended for. If you want to run Old Timers on your DCC system? By all means convert them to DCC or have your layout setup to easily run pure DC.
While some DCC systems have a way to run DC, the constant voltage supplied to the track is hard on motors. Converting to DCC allows for the decoder to control the voltage which is easier on the motor.
Excellent video Jimmy, thank you. You are correct Larry Puckett the DCC Guy has a great channel with a lot of detail. He also has another channel dedicated to British Rail.
My favourite decoder for n scale switchers like the Lifelike SW1200 is the TCS Z2 - very small and fits in tiny spaces. No sound and limited lighting functions but you don’t need many for a switcher.
There's a type of decoder/installation that you didn't mention. TCS makes the CN and CN-GP (differ in how the LEDs are placed) that works with many pre-DCC ready split frame locomotives from Kato, Atlas, and Life-Like. These are popular locos from the early '90s to the mid '00s. The decoder replaces the light boards in the loco. You still have to solder motor leads, and connections between the boards, but no or minimal frame modification is needed.
And upvote for Larry Puckett's channel, and TCS's detailed installation guides.
Dunkin! 🎉
I’m gonna take the chassis off a few engines to see if enough room and if convertible before I order a few 123’s
Nice video.
There is a brand of locomotives that I have that I really want to replace all the decoders, but I am definitely scared to attempt any converstions ourside of drop in decoders.
www.youtube.com/@SoloContracting
Idk if it counts but im drinking Fanta exotic.
Really helpful video, thanks for this. Related question: Hornby in the UK has a new bluetooth-based DCC product (HM 7000). It appears to be 'bleeding edge' tech so far from perfect, but looks really promising and has some very cool features. While the product isn't a great fit for anything other than a limited range of British profile locos, what are your thoughts on taking a wait-and-see attitude to see how this plays out, and whether North American manufacturers start offering something similar? Again, thanks for this great video. Fears averted!
Still drinking COSTA RICAN TARRAZU coffee. I ordered 6 Blunami Decoders. Looking forward to be anal and install them. I am going to use one of them to power-up micro relays that run switches and frogs.
Drinking Peet's Big Bang
The thing is, hardwiring models really is not hard.
Tim Edge I have a Broadway Limited SD 40-2 DCC. I run DC set up. Wondering if you know how to convert it to DC only. It works on DC but can't run along with my other DC locos.
Ok you always seem to ask for imput. So i have a question! What is the oldest engine you own and is there any story behind it? I will say my first I still have and run it is a minitrix 0-6-0 little donkey from about 1966.
Does it matter if the left rail is red for the bus wire but a black wire for the left on the locomotive
No. For the locomotives only, Black is always left rail. Red wire is always right rail.
Jimmy this may be a weird question, but which is the right and left rails
If your are looking at your locomotive from behind the right and left sides from that angle are the correct ones.
Thanks
Yuk DD coffee. Thumbs down. LOL
But you enjoy. I just don't care much about Dunkin Doughnuts coffee or. doughnuts for that matter. But love the trains
I remember when DCC first came out for ho and all the magazines raved about it like it was the greatest thing since sliced bread 🍞. For those of us who did not have clubside layouts to run it did not make any sense economically or otherwise to get DCC. When I modeled in HO scale for over 50 years I had conventional control only. Now that I am now in to 3 railroad gauge because I model subway car trains and the Penn Central so I can get away with having a third rail even if it is not outside third rail. I run 95% conventional controlled engines and the ones that have PS2 with the sound effects and all that crap ola they stay in the box because I'm tired of arguing with the computer to shut itself off 📴. The last thing I want to do is argue with my toy trains 🚂🚃. All of the b******* electronics in today's toy trains regardless of scale and a ridiculous amount to the high prices that they ask for things. Electronics have a low shelf life if you use them they go bad if you don't use them they delaminate in time so you are damned if you do and damned if you don't.conventional trains that are nice and simple just need a little bit of grease and oil in the right places and they will last you forever.