Dan! I can’t keep up with the videos 😂 THANK YOU!! Hope yall get to buy that property you want. Btw I watch/listen at work. So thanks for the entertainment and believe it or not encouragement. Also I use Dani to try n get my wife in the garage more 🤣🤣
@DD Speed Shop..There is a procedure for bleeding the master cylinder. Half strokes first to bleed the back side of the master. Then full stroke to do the front and get any remaining air out of the back.
I have the same rear calipers on my Cutlass and they were kind of crap to bleed. After they're adjusted correct. I vacuum bled, then foot bled them. Work mint now.
Make a plate to go on top of the master cylinder and put a quick disconnect in it and clamp it down to the Master cylinder, and see if you can make a seal for it , but turn your air compressor way down , and connect the air hose and pressurize it then start bleeding the brakes but check frequently or make another hole you can add brake fluid after you disconnect the air hose to top it off
Hi Dan get a adjustable proportioning valve and put it on the frame about under the passenger side on the driver side and adjust it front to back .. works for me on my ‘55 A/G .. get the brakes stopping like you want ..
Please for Safety Sake Replace that extended brake rod with a solid longer one. To many times over a period of time the weld will break and then no brakes.
I had the same problem with those rear brakes on my car. Literally took me a year to realize you have to manually adjust the pistons in with the parking brake adjusters. THEN bleed the brakes after. If you pop those springs out and remove the bolt that holds the adjuster arm, you can turn in the manual adjuster rod (in the center of the caliper) until you have pad contact on the rotor. Then reinstall the adjuster arms and springs and bleed the brakes. Hope that helps.
Try taking the front right bleeder out. Panic stomp the pedal a couple times and reconnect. Trying to move the shuttle valve to uncover the rear port in the proportioning valve....
Those rear calipers look like "old school" grand prix front wheel drive (W body??) type rear calipers. You have to ratchet the park brake lever to push the piston out before bleeding those ones. Do this with the calipers and pads installed. Otherwise you'll be chasing a soft pedal forever. No amount of bleeding them will take up the play.
Dan, Daniel my brother! Excellent work! You are simply the best. Two suggestions, the hard starting, poor idle and just the sound at idle, tells my old ears that she needs a little timing. Also, that sweet engine is big and that means big heat. Get a fan shroud. Very easy to do, very affordable. As aways, I love you guys! Signed - Your friend, Cancer guy! 😊
Dan ,the proportioning valve is a bad name for it. All that does is if you have a broken line when you put the brakes on you have a line going to the front and one to the back. If one gets broken , in the proportioning valve there is a slider that slides to the broken side and blocks the brake fluid of so that you still have one set still functional to get stopped. Take it apart and slide it to the middle
People who keep commenting on car pricing, just don't understand the difference between the classic car market in Canada vs the US. Trust us, those of us Canadians up here DREAM of being able to buy vehicles for the prices you Americans can get them for, but sadly, that's not the case. Just one visit to Canada and you will see pretty quick how insanely inflated things are. Dan's prices are fantastic for our area. Love you guys! 🍁🍁🏁
You need a vacuum bleed kit, uses shop air and comes with a fluid container to clip onto the master so the fluid doesn't run out easily. I have seen bleeders not drilled thru too. This brakes lines on back, yeah, no. lol
I think you need a longer rod on the back side of the master. It might not be running it through its travel completely to make the correct pressure. I used a disc drum master on my rear disc conversion and it worked fine with the new prop valve
That motor oh boy 😮 you gonna get yourself in some more trouble with that one lol. It sounds like pure fun with a side of evil 👹 let the good times roll lol 👍. Thanks for the entertainment be safe out there bruh.
C'mon Danni, its not the size of the rod that matters.... its the magician behind it 🤣😂 Dan.... your suffering is what brings us back time and again..... makes us feel like we aren't the only ones battling through hot rod issues
Enjoyed the video! Cannot wait to hear it with the tunnel ram on. Gonna be awesome! I use to put all the tools I used on a job on the tool box side tray. Clean then put in my box. Try something like that maybe. Easier than having to pick up from floor. :p
I feel for ya. I went through the same thing with the Corvette master and those rear calipers on my 9 inch. I ended up using a vacuum pump to bleed the rear brakes.
Dan, that carb is flooding, that's why it keeps smoking when you turn it off, I noticed it last video which is why it's hard to start, my 2 cents again 👍👍👍👍👍✅✅✅✅✅
fuel injection clamps for the transmission line.. don't use gas hose use high temp/pressure transmission hose made for the job.. steel line is preferred other than external oil cooler installation.. it's better and last longer than fuel line ... go to green line on Notre Dame or to your local transmission shop.. BTW I never did like single piston Master cylinders.. my brother's failed back in the day and he hits the back of the school bus I made two sweet little eyebrow dents on the back of the bus😂
The guy that worked on our garage door a couple months ago turned me on to ZEP 45. Put away your PB Blaster and try this stuff. I became a believer after the first use. It just "fixed" my box fan a few minutes ago.
Come on dan, you spoon fed perfect 1 liners to dani. She should have went to the only Dan's site and had dani responded to those. You 2 are hilarious. Keep on schmooin.
I was having issues on my car I switched it over to disk front and rear had to get a proportioning valve that was disc disc and was still having issues then was told to put a Proportioning valve in and still can’t get the back to bleed so I feel you
They could rub the black off with sand paper and scratch pads and make it look like old patina. Dan enjoy your bad ass big block car . You love that car and working on it. Enjoy dont fret its fun. If its not then slow down and enjoy the journey. Half the fun of hot rods is working on them. You know you love I know you love it.
We used the same rear disks with that corvette master and a disk disk proportioning valve, we never got it right, changed everything except the rear calipers to get it to work
You probably already moved past the brake problem by the time I reply but when I converted to Disc/Disc, I used two different Jegs kits along with buying a 7/8ths Willwood master cylinder with proportioning valve (manual brakes). After I completed the install I felt a similar problem. I later noticed my rear Brake kit instructions said to use a different sized MS. ..But I said screw it, "that's a future me problem", it still stops for now. 🤣
Don't feel bad..I welded Alston ladder bars on a 12 bilt Chevelle in my 56 Chevy 150 in the 80's and took out linings bearings and seals and found out in 2017..LOL Never too old to be an idiot! Now have a blown exhaust head gasket blowing water out the tail pipe faster than you can fill the radiator..never to old make mistakes!
Did you reset the proportioning valve? The rear brakes will not work properly until you do. There’s videos on UA-cam to show you how it’s very simple but absolutely necessary
The reason they want them mounted toward the front "The position of brake calipers relative to the rotor-whether they’re mounted in front (leading) or behind (trailing)-has some interesting considerations. Let’s break it down: Leading Calipers (Front Position): When calipers are in front of the axle (at 3/9 o’clock), they benefit from better protection against debris and receive more cooling air. However, this position shields the rotor from direct cooling airflow. The counterforce on the hub due to caliper braking torque adds to the load applied to the bearings. Trailing Calipers (Rear Position): Rearward caliper placement (at 6/12 o’clock) increases exposure to debris and hot air off the rotors. It cancels some of the loads due to the wheel, reducing the total force on the bearings1. In practice, most production cars position calipers based on chassis integration, production economies, and bleed screw orientation. Ensuring bleed screws end up near 12 o’clock helps avoid trapped air and optimizes brake system cooling without interfering with suspension or body panels2. So, while the position matters, it’s not a significant real-world performance factor for most vehicles."
So a lean condition because of not having the necessary fuel system can cost you the motor that I hear wasn't cheap and the rinky dink 7/16" wheel studs instead of the necessary 1/2" wheel studs can cause a wreck at this power level These Horsepower numbers aren't what you were building before and the convenience of only needing one socket size can be more than detrimental to you enjoying your project
@@archiebald9500 I didn't mean he was lean sitting there but once he starts to enjoy the tire smoking rpm"s a lean cylinder because it can't keep up with the amount needed Oh Boy
A factory, 4 wheel disc brake vehicle, has a fraction of brake dust on the rear, compared to the front. Meaning, a fraction of the pressure/fluid, to the rear. Front and rear, same pressure, means locked rear brakes. You're, supposed to have less pressure/fluid to the rear disc brakes.
I had a HORRIBLE time bleeding my rear disc brakes and came really close to putting rear drum brakes on my 32 Ford coupe . I had to remove the calipers to finally get them bled .
I own a big block 67 Coronet. This SOB has fought me every inch of the way. I am a good mechanic. It has to be crap Chinese parts? I have all but giving up.
Your rear brakes are activated by the front resivior.you haven't worked on a lot of modern break systems it would seem.also the safest way is to install an adjustable metering block.Your brake bias is completely different from a Corvette.
Those rear brakes are the same style used on the 9" in 70's Ford Grenada's and Mercury Monarchs....I used to run them on an old Mustang and could never get a good pedal without pumping the pedal twice when braking....I suggest looking up how to bleed them...Might help
Dan! I can’t keep up with the videos 😂 THANK YOU!!
Hope yall get to buy that property you want.
Btw I watch/listen at work. So thanks for the entertainment and believe it or not encouragement.
Also I use Dani to try n get my wife in the garage more 🤣🤣
@DD Speed Shop..There is a procedure for bleeding the master cylinder.
Half strokes first to bleed the back side of the master. Then full stroke to do the front and get any remaining air out of the back.
Did you watch the video from junk mechanic. He explains to you why the issues with the master cylinders
I was just going to mention that, and your comment was right below my typing.
ua-cam.com/video/seCWBy3PERI/v-deo.htmlsi=NWNAa6eQUTJUFR79 junk mechanic link to video
I said that to him last video. Hopefully he did. He will have plenty in stock lol
I'm not even a follower of Junk Mechanic. Well, I am now, but his video popped up in my suggestions.
Awesome. Thanks fella's! Cheers from Junk's Automotive
Chin up Dan. Take a breath, take a look around. You are a lucky man. You are making steps forward on this kick arse 55
That sounds great 👍 More than Rowdy!!!
I have the same rear calipers on my Cutlass and they were kind of crap to bleed. After they're adjusted correct. I vacuum bled, then foot bled them. Work mint now.
Make a plate to go on top of the master cylinder and put a quick disconnect in it and clamp it down to the Master cylinder, and see if you can make a seal for it , but turn your air compressor way down , and connect the air hose and pressurize it then start bleeding the brakes but check frequently or make another hole you can add brake fluid after you disconnect the air hose to top it off
You are one of the best hotrod builder on. UA-cam
Hi Dan get a adjustable proportioning valve and put it on the frame about under the passenger side on the driver side and adjust it front to back .. works for me on my ‘55 A/G .. get the brakes stopping like you want ..
9:22 - The wrench 🔧 area !!! Classic Dan , on the spot commentary !! …. I like watching the happy couple interact
Pump the levers on the calipers to push the pistons out and then they should bleed out properly
Please for Safety Sake Replace that extended brake rod with a solid longer one. To many times over a period of time the weld will break and then no brakes.
@@jdkotara130 that rod will never brake
Sounds like the proportion valve isn't centered, try leaving the left front bleeder open when bleeding the rears. Good luck
I had the same problem with those rear brakes on my car. Literally took me a year to realize you have to manually adjust the pistons in with the parking brake adjusters. THEN bleed the brakes after. If you pop those springs out and remove the bolt that holds the adjuster arm, you can turn in the manual adjuster rod (in the center of the caliper) until you have pad contact on the rotor. Then reinstall the adjuster arms and springs and bleed the brakes.
Hope that helps.
Try taking the front right bleeder out. Panic stomp the pedal a couple times and reconnect. Trying to move the shuttle valve to uncover the rear port in the proportioning valve....
Those rear calipers look like "old school" grand prix front wheel drive (W body??) type rear calipers. You have to ratchet the park brake lever to push the piston out before bleeding those ones. Do this with the calipers and pads installed. Otherwise you'll be chasing a soft pedal forever. No amount of bleeding them will take up the play.
Don’t give up Dan. You can power through these problems!
So Long Chiquita Banana !!! Long may you run !!! Almost there with the Five-Five !!! Rave- On Danni and Dan !!!
Dan, Daniel my brother! Excellent work! You are simply the best. Two suggestions, the hard starting, poor idle and just the sound at idle, tells my old ears that she needs a little timing. Also, that sweet engine is big and that means big heat. Get a fan shroud. Very easy to do, very affordable. As aways, I love you guys! Signed - Your friend, Cancer guy! 😊
I've been thinking the same.👍
Dan ,the proportioning valve is a bad name for it. All that does is if you have a broken line when you put the brakes on you have a line going to the front and one to the back. If one gets broken , in the proportioning valve there is a slider that slides to the broken side and blocks the brake fluid of so that you still have one set still functional to get stopped. Take it apart and slide it to the middle
Thanks for sharing this video with us
Sounds lazy check timing again but I’m loving it.
Kicking a useless box is better than kicking a fender or throwing a wrench at a windshield. And That's HOT RODDING!
Thank you Kids.
People who keep commenting on car pricing, just don't understand the difference between the classic car market in Canada vs the US. Trust us, those of us Canadians up here DREAM of being able to buy vehicles for the prices you Americans can get them for, but sadly, that's not the case. Just one visit to Canada and you will see pretty quick how insanely inflated things are. Dan's prices are fantastic for our area. Love you guys! 🍁🍁🏁
You priced everything really fair. You can't find a rotted out shitbox near me for what you asked for your cars.
Thing sounds like it wants to party! Good job my dude.
You need a vacuum bleed kit, uses shop air and comes with a fluid container to clip onto the master so the fluid doesn't run out easily.
I have seen bleeders not drilled thru too.
This brakes lines on back, yeah, no. lol
I think you need a longer rod on the back side of the master. It might not be running it through its travel completely to make the correct pressure. I used a disc drum master on my rear disc conversion and it worked fine with the new prop valve
That motor oh boy 😮 you gonna get yourself in some more trouble with that one lol. It sounds like pure fun with a side of evil 👹 let the good times roll lol 👍. Thanks for the entertainment be safe out there bruh.
I love yall! Thanks for the entertainment.
C'mon Danni, its not the size of the rod that matters.... its the magician behind it 🤣😂 Dan.... your suffering is what brings us back time and again..... makes us feel like we aren't the only ones battling through hot rod issues
You pump the emergency brake to set the calipers then you bleed the brakes .
Enjoyed the video! Cannot wait to hear it with the tunnel ram on. Gonna be awesome! I use to put all the tools I used on a job on the tool box side tray. Clean then put in my box. Try something like that maybe. Easier than having to pick up from floor. :p
Ok buddy Don't beat yourself up y ur more honest then other channels hint hint real world dd speed shop.
Two 55 mads in driveway. Two lane pseudo with a awesome rat in garage. I'm into it.
Lots of progress today, for sure. Maybe, just the little things left. Bench seat next? Cheers!! 😊
beautiful 650HP hairblower for Dan's beautiful head of hair!
I feel for ya. I went through the same thing with the Corvette master and those rear calipers on my 9 inch. I ended up using a vacuum pump to bleed the rear brakes.
Dan, that carb is flooding, that's why it keeps smoking when you turn it off, I noticed it last video which is why it's hard to start, my 2 cents again 👍👍👍👍👍✅✅✅✅✅
yes ..float level too high...the motor was probably level on the dyno ...now it has a slight tilt to the rear ...its boiling over...
I hope you sound bite that exhaust note, cuz even tho the gopro audio probably doesn't do it justice, it still sounds so fantastic. Nice one Dan 👍
I wish you could hear it in person. Its so good
fuel injection clamps for the transmission line.. don't use gas hose use high temp/pressure transmission hose made for the job.. steel line is preferred other than external oil cooler installation.. it's better and last longer than fuel line ... go to green line on Notre Dame or to your local transmission shop.. BTW I never did like single piston Master cylinders.. my brother's failed back in the day and he hits the back of the school bus I made two sweet little eyebrow dents on the back of the bus😂
Minimum wage is
If I could legally pay you less, I would. 🤪
Man that thing sounds Bitchin!! Race car sounds for sure!
Awesome running 55. Take a break and have some dinner. Keep up the great work.
You need to get John and Cecil over there to adjust that carburetor before you wash your rings
Think my brake rod is too long, thanks for the info
The guy that worked on our garage door a couple months ago turned me on to ZEP 45. Put away your PB Blaster and try this stuff. I became a believer after the first use. It just "fixed" my box fan a few minutes ago.
PB is a meant to break stuff loose and stay wet while it works, its not a lube and shouldn't be used as one.
Come on dan, you spoon fed perfect 1 liners to dani. She should have went to the only Dan's site and had dani responded to those. You 2 are hilarious. Keep on schmooin.
Damn it Dan..
Love the way your two,lane blacktop.
Is coming..
Awesome..
Motor, sounds..
...but wait, they were wondering how the thing looks..
I was having issues on my car I switched it over to disk front and rear had to get a proportioning valve that was disc disc and was still having issues then was told to put a Proportioning valve in and still can’t get the back to bleed so I feel you
No doubt you will get it Dan. It will soon hit the road as a beast. 👍😎✌️
😁They only come back to watch me suffer! LOL!
I'm pretty sure I saw the 9/16 there on the floor but every time Dani looked down it disappeared in boob shadow.
That would look great in 55 glacier blue and rear fenders slightly flared!
JMO
Enjoy the videos!
Thanks
They could rub the black off with sand paper and scratch pads and make it look like old patina. Dan enjoy your bad ass big block car . You love that car and working on it. Enjoy dont fret its fun. If its not then slow down and enjoy the journey. Half the fun of hot rods is working on them. You know you love I know you love it.
We used the same rear disks with that corvette master and a disk disk proportioning valve, we never got it right, changed everything except the rear calipers to get it to work
All the fuel you’ll need! -8 hoses and fittings all the way to the regulator; -6 to the bowls. Holley Mechanical Fuel Pumps 12-454-20
A little more info on proportioning valve, it's partially mover and it's screwing with you're master valve
Grinding full on crazy hard.
Sparks and windshield glass don’t play well together.
I learned that the hard way on my new custom bent $1200 windshield.
The good thing about cleaning up to find a tool is you eventually find the tool and you get a cleaner shop in the bargain.
So Dan. It sounds like maybe timing.🤷🏽♂️ l like it. I all so like my Harley to idle down to death love that sound 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎
You probably already moved past the brake problem by the time I reply but when I converted to Disc/Disc, I used two different Jegs kits along with buying a 7/8ths Willwood master cylinder with proportioning valve (manual brakes). After I completed the install I felt a similar problem. I later noticed my rear Brake kit instructions said to use a different sized MS. ..But I said screw it, "that's a future me problem", it still stops for now. 🤣
Don't feel back..I welded Alston ladder bars on my 12 bol
Don't feel bad..I welded Alston ladder bars on a 12 bilt Chevelle in my 56 Chevy 150 in the 80's and took out linings bearings and seals and found out in 2017..LOL
Never too old to be an idiot!
Now have a blown exhaust head gasket blowing water out the tail pipe faster than you can fill the radiator..never to old make mistakes!
Momma said there'd be days like that. Sometimes things just don't go according to plan. Badass machine either way!!
Definitely sounds Good Dan and Dani
Love the reversed Shaker scoop on the 56! Keep up the awesome videos!
Did you reset the proportioning valve? The rear brakes will not work properly until you do. There’s videos on UA-cam to show you how it’s very simple but absolutely necessary
Nice lavender talons Dani...thanks for the vidya 🐾
Ball scratchers.
BlueChew bailed before the extended rod episode.
They missed out on a gold mine
The reason they want them mounted toward the front "The position of brake calipers relative to the rotor-whether they’re mounted in front (leading) or behind (trailing)-has some interesting considerations. Let’s break it down:
Leading Calipers (Front Position):
When calipers are in front of the axle (at 3/9 o’clock), they benefit from better protection against debris and receive more cooling air.
However, this position shields the rotor from direct cooling airflow.
The counterforce on the hub due to caliper braking torque adds to the load applied to the bearings.
Trailing Calipers (Rear Position):
Rearward caliper placement (at 6/12 o’clock) increases exposure to debris and hot air off the rotors.
It cancels some of the loads due to the wheel, reducing the total force on the bearings1.
In practice, most production cars position calipers based on chassis integration, production economies, and bleed screw orientation. Ensuring bleed screws end up near 12 o’clock helps avoid trapped air and optimizes brake system cooling without interfering with suspension or body panels2. So, while the position matters, it’s not a significant real-world performance factor for most vehicles."
So a lean condition because of not having the necessary fuel system can cost you the motor that I hear wasn't cheap and the rinky dink 7/16" wheel studs instead of the necessary 1/2" wheel studs can cause a wreck at this power level These Horsepower numbers aren't what you were building before and the convenience of only needing one socket size can be more than detrimental to you enjoying your project
Far from lean!! It's washing the rings away. He will learn.
@@archiebald9500
I didn't mean he was lean sitting there but once he starts to enjoy the tire smoking rpm"s a lean cylinder because it can't keep up with the amount needed Oh Boy
You are going to really enjoy a 4 post lift in your new location when that happens. Brakes, driveshaft, front hood hinges, GEAR VENDOR. On and on
Yep, best to push it out to pasture. We’ll take it from there ;)
A factory, 4 wheel disc brake vehicle, has a fraction of brake dust on the rear, compared to the front. Meaning, a fraction of the pressure/fluid, to the rear. Front and rear, same pressure, means locked rear brakes. You're, supposed to have less pressure/fluid to the rear disc brakes.
Hello D'D's speed shop. I had... A comment. BUT. Local RXRd crossing through the neighborhood. I've had a brain fart...
You?
Probably have the strongest jaw muscles of anyone I know. With all?
Your yapin all the time.
You probably got the strongest finger muscles from all the complaining in the comments.
@@DDSpeedShop you are welcome!!!
I never realized how much of a dirt dragger this thing is ! Its not a gasser at all !
Neither was the two lane blacktop movie car this is based on.
@@Jdwescottthis
Man that thing sounds killer!
I had a HORRIBLE time bleeding my rear disc brakes and came really close to putting rear drum brakes on my 32 Ford coupe . I had to remove the calipers to finally get them bled .
Blue Chew is for soft brake pedals too😅
Needs a 4 speed.dan
.
I learn slot from you Dan keep up the good work
Dan, my car has been fighting me the same way.....NO REASON! Ya know, other than it being 50 to 60 year old metal.
I own a big block 67 Coronet. This SOB has fought me every inch of the way. I am a good mechanic. It has to be crap Chinese parts? I have all but giving up.
Sounds sweet 👍
The car whistle’s at you when you hit the brakes and when you open and close the doors
You could tell by the burnout that the buyer did the 56 went to a good home 😁
Thanks for the like Dan 👍
Jeez Dan stop coughing on camera!!!
I sense a disturbance in the force. I predict a separation of Dan and his drivers license in the near future.
Again.
....
Separation will be bad. But the make up sex will be fantastic! (No problem with an extended rod then)😂😂😂😂
Its hard to tell however if you swap your rear callipers from side to side the bleeder valve looks like it would be near the top of the cup
Your rear brakes are activated by the front resivior.you haven't worked on a lot of modern break systems it would seem.also the safest way is to install an adjustable metering block.Your brake bias is completely different from a Corvette.
Hey Guys
Take care😊
Brother u are one hard worker an miss
We'll be right back I got to find my favorite wrench.😊
You need a proportion valve tool to screw in valve and let fluid go through
Nice Dan...
Power thru it brother , think like a crazy person 😂
Those rear brakes are the same style used on the 9" in 70's Ford Grenada's and Mercury Monarchs....I used to run them on an old Mustang and could never get a good pedal without pumping the pedal twice when braking....I suggest looking up how to bleed them...Might help
Love your program
Swap the brake lines at the master cylinder if the is pressure differential. More to the rear