Production work is a different mindset. Set up a fixture for your drill operations. No need to mark, measure, and center punch. That removes three operations. You could pickle the steel instead of sand blasting. That basically allows you to parallel a process. More than enough weld on there. Straight stringers is more than strong enough. So that saves some wire, gas, electricity, and time.
I'm glad I wasn't the only person who saw this. The people in the video did WAY too much work. They could either lower the price of this product or increase profits by decreasing the labor they were doing. Cheers!
10 times safety factor is insanely overbuilt too, but i get it. aero is something like 3 times lol. its a hard target to hit, but you want it exactly strong enough, with not an ounce of strength over. Boeing has poured a crazy amount of money just into exactly hitting tolerances in their requirements (and literally not going over at all). i always pushed my safety margin as far as i can though. i'll never be the guy explaining why billy isn't ever coming home again, even if it costs my company a few extra cents
You can cut the drilling process in half. Clamp the vice on the drill press bed and make a stopper to push the part up against so they always go in the same place. Just push the part up to the stopper, close the vice and drill. No more double measuring and center punching.
Hello I was watching your video about making your 2inch lift blocks and with your permission make a vast time savings for production. When drilling make a dedicated jig and fasten to your drill press. Then you can drill holes and line up every time. If I was making a highly repetition like this it will save lots of time. Thank you for your very interesting video and keep on keeping on, lol.
This is a friendly and well meaning piece of advice from an old retired mechanic. Protect your lungs. Please wear a filtration mask. My lungs are wrecked from breathing in several decades of various dusts and vapors (smoke and fumes from welding). Like the caution sign in front of you at 28:10 reads. You guys are still young. Please , protect your lungs.
check online for your competition. Rubicon sells 2" blocks for $32 . I've seen the kit with case iron blocks for $70. look at their product closely. If your product is superior, point out the ways it is that makes it worth $300. Love your channel, keep plugging alone.
I don't see where they have trailer lift blocks, only ones for chevy or jeeps. If you can send me the link on Instagram @simcoe_spring I'll definitely check them out.
Nice side hustle! Couple suggestions to speed up the process... order your blocks cut from seemless tube so you don't have to drill through the seem, that's hard on drill bits. Use 5/8 round stock instead of bolt heads, cheaper and only drilling one size hole. And definitely fab a drill jig so there's no measuring or punching required. End product looks good. Cheers.
thanks, since posting this video we have changed a lot of what you suggested. We are always trying to develop new ways to manufacture parts more efficiently.
Soild block would be a lot faster. A lot of driiling I did 52 2" and 52 3" it took me 2 about 15 hours to prepare drill and debar and clean the blocks for powder coating.
yes, solid blocks are a lot faster, now we can do about 30 blocks an hour. Can't wait to get my 2nd drill press rolling this fall so we can do 60 blocks an hour.
6:30 Scott if you only knew a welder... 😁 You could have him make a jig up for all these point locations that would simply have a hole for the size of the punch, no lines etc, just install in jig and punch. Fabrication could go a lot quicker. Smarter not harder! 👍 Would save time and fab costs. Great job sir by the way, keep up the good work.
Is there not a jig that can be fitted to the drill press that is pre-measured and set for exactly where to drill? So you can do away with multiple centre measures
26:17 when in doubt, shake and bake. you probably don't have a thermotron cabinet in your shop though haha. if you want to go all out with testing, i'd rig up some temp cycle testing to put it through death valley style cycles, say 120 F to -30 F and then set up some dynamic load testing where you have something heavy just get dropped on it over and over. i'd also slap some transducers on it and give it some road vibrations. ideally you would do the vibe and temp test at the same time. after all that you could do some fancy dye tests for fractures or use an ultrasound if you have one laying in the back somewhere lol. that's probably all the random testing i'd do if this part wound up in my lab with no actual requirements other than "will this fail and when will it fail." which that did happen from time to time. i never really tested stuff like this block though, so i'm probably missing something more obvious. i would probably loop in a certified weld inspector and try to make it their problem haha
On a 26’ camper we put the axles under the leaf springs and added a 1 1/2” block. lol, was spooky having that trailer up on blocks in my shop. Needed the clearance to take it up the New Mexico mountains for some deer & elk bow hunts.
Scott, Ever think about NOT welding plates on the lift bodies, but instead filling those tubular steal units with epoxy? May be stronger and reduces a lot of labor steps.
Thank you for including Canada in America lol I played online with a lot of Canadians and they didn’t like being called American. I vote we call ourselves Unitedstatesians to avoid the confusion
You may want to look at an industrial shop that has huge resistance welders to weld the center pins in. The would weld the pin in the exact center in a matter of seconds. You could look at a capacitance discharge welder to do it yourself. Much faster and probably cost effecrive compared to labor rate.
Interesting. I would cut a section of square tube to place inside the channel perpendicular to the orientation of the outer channel. A Notch could be cut to clear the pin and you would have a strong assembly with less need for so much welding. Try it, you'll save lots of time.
i wanna lean up that manufacturing process so good.... nothing like a pure manufacturing process to work on. you could probably get the entire production into a single work station with a seated worker and no walking at all
@@simcoespring I need 2 leaf springs and block kit for my trailer it a 1977 Layton ro camper trailer it have 4 wheels just like you did on the video and I your website don’t have the year from my trailer let me know thank you
Absolutely. We learned a lot making this video. A lot of what NOT to do. I hope to get a new video out on how the process is going now after 4 months of making blocks.
@@simcoespring for $111 for two axles! That's still crazy. I sourced the materials myselt and was able to do two trailers (6 axles total) for just under $150 which included spring seats.
@@Globalhec sometimes it is about the quality and not about price just look at what china ha# done to our markets with cheap parts one use and mostly replacing again so in the long run buy North American and use the hell out of it or spend YOUR time building your own.
@@jamesmorgan6782 that's precisely what I did. I choose to spend my own time and fabricated my own. It meant the most sense considering that I needed quite a few of them.
I work for Northwest Steelcrafters and I have been making lift blocks for trailers. 2" & 3" blocks. Did all the prediction today powder coating Tomorrow. Lots of work with a 1940's Bridgeport milling machine
Basics: What is the purpose of this product and why is your product the most cost-effective way to do it? You have an insane amount of credibility with me which means I value what you have to say, but you must make your arguement / reasoning of why you are putting your time and effort into making this product.
the purpose of the product is to lift a trailer (usually camper trailer) up 2" to match the vehicle that pulls it. Why is my product the most cost effective way to do it? Probably not, there is probably cheaper stuff out there, but you get what you pay for.
Bravo for making such a tool. For its stated purpose it appears FAR overbuilt. Not bad, just much more than necessary. Keep up the good work & great videos.
Why not just whack a stick of 2"x2" into 4" pieces? In 5/16 wall they'd hold god knows how much but 15T would be no problem and you wouldn't need to waste time capping them.
@@simcoespring Still could've used it, a 2" Ubolt over a 1.75 pack equals an 1/8th on either side, not really critical. Your profit after labor wasn't worth it, not unless you pay your guys 5 bucks an hr. and even then..
@@dennisgolden7596 Solid steel?! Lol. What the hell is the trailer carrying that you'd use bar stock? I use a 1.5" slice of 3"x5" 3/8 wall box on 50T Murray RGNs modified for OD transport to make up for going from 24s to 22.5 lo pros. And I just run a few beads fore and aft of the Ubolts to locate it. Easy peasy! And it costs about 20 bucks in T/M per 4.
Production work is a different mindset. Set up a fixture for your drill operations. No need to mark, measure, and center punch. That removes three operations. You could pickle the steel instead of sand blasting. That basically allows you to parallel a process. More than enough weld on there. Straight stringers is more than strong enough. So that saves some wire, gas, electricity, and time.
I'm glad I wasn't the only person who saw this. The people in the video did WAY too much work. They could either lower the price of this product or increase profits by decreasing the labor they were doing. Cheers!
10 times safety factor is insanely overbuilt too, but i get it. aero is something like 3 times lol. its a hard target to hit, but you want it exactly strong enough, with not an ounce of strength over. Boeing has poured a crazy amount of money just into exactly hitting tolerances in their requirements (and literally not going over at all). i always pushed my safety margin as far as i can though. i'll never be the guy explaining why billy isn't ever coming home again, even if it costs my company a few extra cents
You can cut the drilling process in half. Clamp the vice on the drill press bed and make a stopper to push the part up against so they always go in the same place. Just push the part up to the stopper, close the vice and drill. No more double measuring and center punching.
Exactly what I thought!
Yep, same.
Very same thing i was thinking
You all beat me to that one .... set up for the first one - then repeat until done.
Well, center punching or drilling is crucial, still. Depends on tolerance.
Hello I was watching your video about making your 2inch lift blocks and with your permission make a vast time savings for production. When drilling make a dedicated jig and fasten to your drill press. Then you can drill holes and line up every time. If I was making a highly repetition like this it will save lots of time. Thank you for your very interesting video and keep on keeping on, lol.
This is a friendly and well meaning piece of advice from an old retired mechanic. Protect your lungs. Please wear a filtration mask. My lungs are wrecked from breathing in several decades of various dusts and vapors (smoke and fumes from welding). Like the caution sign in front of you at 28:10 reads. You guys are still young. Please , protect your lungs.
1000% pass in my book
check online for your competition. Rubicon sells 2" blocks for $32 . I've seen the kit with case iron blocks for $70. look at their product closely. If your product is superior, point out the ways it is that makes it worth $300. Love your channel, keep plugging alone.
I don't see where they have trailer lift blocks, only ones for chevy or jeeps. If you can send me the link on Instagram @simcoe_spring I'll definitely check them out.
By placing the center plates recessed, you created essentially 2 I beams, a stronger setup compared to a box had you welded the side plates flush.
I was also concerned about clearance for the Ubolts. This way I didn't have to weld it all, then grind it flat.
Nice side hustle! Couple suggestions to speed up the process... order your blocks cut from seemless tube so you don't have to drill through the seem, that's hard on drill bits. Use 5/8 round stock instead of bolt heads, cheaper and only drilling one size hole. And definitely fab a drill jig so there's no measuring or punching required. End product looks good. Cheers.
thanks, since posting this video we have changed a lot of what you suggested. We are always trying to develop new ways to manufacture parts more efficiently.
A bit of super glue or tape should help with the magnets popping off. Or just make a box to go underneath instead
De q país son gracias 🤝 x más capacitación
Awesome. Looking forward to my order.
Soild block would be a lot faster. A lot of driiling I did 52 2" and 52 3" it took me 2 about 15 hours to prepare drill and debar and clean the blocks for powder coating.
yes, solid blocks are a lot faster, now we can do about 30 blocks an hour. Can't wait to get my 2nd drill press rolling this fall so we can do 60 blocks an hour.
6:30 Scott if you only knew a welder... 😁 You could have him make a jig up for all these point locations that would simply have a hole for the size of the punch, no lines etc, just install in jig and punch. Fabrication could go a lot quicker. Smarter not harder! 👍 Would save time and fab costs. Great job sir by the way, keep up the good work.
Is there not a jig that can be fitted to the drill press that is pre-measured and set for exactly where to drill? So you can do away with multiple centre measures
Worse case, the Blue Whale family goes camping and a 747 lands on their camping trailer
26:17 when in doubt, shake and bake. you probably don't have a thermotron cabinet in your shop though haha. if you want to go all out with testing, i'd rig up some temp cycle testing to put it through death valley style cycles, say 120 F to -30 F and then set up some dynamic load testing where you have something heavy just get dropped on it over and over. i'd also slap some transducers on it and give it some road vibrations. ideally you would do the vibe and temp test at the same time. after all that you could do some fancy dye tests for fractures or use an ultrasound if you have one laying in the back somewhere lol.
that's probably all the random testing i'd do if this part wound up in my lab with no actual requirements other than "will this fail and when will it fail." which that did happen from time to time. i never really tested stuff like this block though, so i'm probably missing something more obvious. i would probably loop in a certified weld inspector and try to make it their problem haha
On a 26’ camper we put the axles under the leaf springs and added a 1 1/2” block. lol, was spooky having that trailer up on blocks in my shop. Needed the clearance to take it up the New Mexico mountains for some deer & elk bow hunts.
By the time those blocks have failed , the sky will have fallen in , PASS.
Scott, Ever think about NOT welding plates on the lift bodies, but instead filling those tubular steal units with epoxy? May be stronger and reduces a lot of labor steps.
Thank you for including Canada in America lol I played online with a lot of Canadians and they didn’t like being called American. I vote we call ourselves Unitedstatesians to avoid the confusion
You may want to look at an industrial shop that has huge resistance welders to weld the center pins in. The would weld the pin in the exact center in a matter of seconds. You could look at a capacitance discharge welder to do it yourself. Much faster and probably cost effecrive compared to labor rate.
Interesting. I would cut a section of square tube to place inside the channel perpendicular to the orientation of the outer channel. A Notch could be cut to clear the pin and you would have a strong assembly with less need for so much welding. Try it, you'll save lots of time.
i wanna lean up that manufacturing process so good.... nothing like a pure manufacturing process to work on. you could probably get the entire production into a single work station with a seated worker and no walking at all
I have mgs you on the website never got reply back hope you seen this comment thank you
Not sure. I try to reply to every email as long as it is replyable
@@simcoespring I need 2 leaf springs and block kit for my trailer it a 1977 Layton ro camper trailer it have 4 wheels just like you did on the video and I your website don’t have the year from my trailer let me know thank you
This old design was really a massive waste of resources and time.
The blocks I am working on are soild steal blocks m
Great video. Great work. The pride in the work speaks for itself. Love it!
Good very fast working
5 pounds of tannerite and a .50 BMG? 😁
I have a Forrest River Salem 27rll RV trailer, the tires rip the material above them. Can your product raise the trailer for more clearance?
if the leaf springs are above the axle, then yes, this will give you 2" of clearance more
Why not construct a jig so that you clamp the jig on the drill press and drill both holes I one stroke
Absolutely. We learned a lot making this video. A lot of what NOT to do. I hope to get a new video out on how the process is going now after 4 months of making blocks.
For 300 dollars for the tamden set I ll buy new u bolts and build them blocks myself.
Go for it. We have the u-bolt kits sold separately on our website as well.
simcoespring.com/products/2-lift-ubolt-kit-tandem-axle-trailer
@@simcoespring for $111 for two axles! That's still crazy. I sourced the materials myselt and was able to do two trailers (6 axles total) for just under $150 which included spring seats.
@@Globalhec sometimes it is about the quality and not about price just look at what china ha# done to our markets with cheap parts one use and mostly replacing again so in the long run buy North American and use the hell out of it or spend YOUR time building your own.
@@jamesmorgan6782 that's precisely what I did. I choose to spend my own time and fabricated my own. It meant the most sense considering that I needed quite a few of them.
Like I say good work ain’t cheap and cheap work ain’t good case closed you get what you pay for I’m getting my set
I work for Northwest Steelcrafters and I have been making lift blocks for trailers.
2" & 3" blocks.
Did all the prediction today powder coating
Tomorrow.
Lots of work with a 1940's Bridgeport milling machine
We started making them out of solid steel. 2x4x1.75
@@simcoespring
Nice work.
Basics: What is the purpose of this product and why is your product the most cost-effective way to do it? You have an insane amount of credibility with me which means I value what you have to say, but you must make your arguement / reasoning of why you are putting your time and effort into making this product.
the purpose of the product is to lift a trailer (usually camper trailer) up 2" to match the vehicle that pulls it.
Why is my product the most cost effective way to do it? Probably not, there is probably cheaper stuff out there, but you get what you pay for.
Nobody else's blocks look as cute when you squish them. “If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.”
Hi,
how thick material are you using ?
everything here was 1/4" thick. Now we use sold steel blocks.
Bravo for making such a tool. For its stated purpose it appears FAR overbuilt. Not bad, just much more than necessary. Keep up the good work & great videos.
yah, we thought that too, so now we just make them out of sold steel. Easier to manufacture and indestructible.
Way cool vid though
Why not just whack a stick of 2"x2" into 4" pieces? In 5/16 wall they'd hold god knows how much but 15T would be no problem and you wouldn't need to waste time capping them.
Because it is 2 x 1.75. Not 2x2. A more complex shape
@@simcoespring Still could've used it, a 2" Ubolt over a 1.75 pack equals an 1/8th on either side, not really critical. Your profit after labor wasn't worth it, not unless you pay your guys 5 bucks an hr. and even then..
At. Work we are making trailer raiser blocks we use soild steel blocks cut to size
I have been drilling 2" and 3" blocks for pins
@@dennisgolden7596 Solid steel?! Lol. What the hell is the trailer carrying that you'd use bar stock? I use a 1.5" slice of 3"x5" 3/8 wall box on 50T Murray RGNs modified for OD transport to make up for going from 24s to 22.5 lo pros. And I just run a few beads fore and aft of the Ubolts to locate it. Easy peasy! And it costs about 20 bucks in T/M per 4.
Build a jig.
melt it
Amazing work, skill, and video!!!!!!
Thank you very much!
Maybe your end caps made of diamond plate but install them with the smooth side out