Just did mine using Motofab 2" leveling kit. I recommend that over these two piece welded spacers. Motofab is a single piece billet aluminium, powdercoated for protection. My son did the same, but used some of the short cuts posted here and had a much more difficult time doing it as I did using this technique of removing everything. NOTE: put factory nuts back on the studs, tighten them down just below where they need to be cut...(Dremel tool works great) do a quick touch up on the end of the stud with file, remove the nuts and the threads will be nice and clean.
A few tips for anyone doing this at home. When dealing with a sway bar, it's usually much easier to work with if you loosen or remove the middle sway bar hangers. This takes the tension off the sway bar so you don't need to pry on it. Instead of using the files to clean the threads on the studs after you've cut them, you can go to the local hardware store and buy some cheap nuts that will thread onto the studs. Put them on before you cut the studs, and taking them off will clean the threads.
I have a 97 chevy c25. I HATE nose diving trucks. If your truck is an older, 2wd work truck that sits with its butt in the air, 2 inches won't level it at all.... You need 3-4 inches. I went with a 4inch spindle lift and I love it. They keep your factory steering and suspension at the same angles they are the ONLY way to go!!
I'm glad you found the video helpful. "One of the best UA-cam videos", not sure about that though ;) As far as replacing the struts, as long as they are the correct fit for your truck they should not cause any accelerated wear issues, provided you follow regular routine maintenance.
It kind of depends on the type of tire. A highway or all terrain may fit but an aggressive mud terrain might rub on the inner fender. You need to remember that you need clearance when you turn the wheels to full lock left or right. Also when you are on uneven terrain the wheels will push up further into the wheel wells. All that being said you can fit larger tires w/out a lift but you will likely have clearance issues at some point.
A trick with cutting those studs is leave you nuts on while you cut the stud and when you back the nut off it will help clean the threads back up, but anyway good video man
Do you have to remove the tie rod and ball joints?I've seen people remove the whole strut unit with out having to do that. If you can remove the whole unit I feel you can install the level kit with out having to undo the ball joint and tie rod end.. No?Only asking because I'm trying to draw a game plan for my install this weekend.Thanks
No. Strut stays fully assembled so no spring compresser required. With upper ball joint dissconected, lower control arm will drop far enough to allow the strut to be easly removed/put back into place
@martinsteele05 you can still go back to stock,it's only the non-threaded portion of the bolts that get cut off. struts could always be replaced also. the best option for you though would be to go with a 2.5in lift and bolts don't get cut at all.
just like @jptrustno down below said, before you cut the stud, run a nut all the way down. then cut the stud and remove the nut. the nut will correct the threads.
Went through a whole lot of pointless steps. I did mine by disconnecting the stabilizer rod, removed the strut, added the spacer, and put the strut back in. Never touched the tie-rod or ball joint.
On a 4wd?? Just got an 18' z71, I'm trying to decide on spacers. 100bux or what some hqve referred the "right way " coil overs. 1,000. How has your trucks front end held up..ball/cv joint, A arm issues? I really dont want to touch it but the front has no clearance.
One of the best UA-cam videos I have watched! You really saved me. I need to remove and replace the upper control arm and to do this I need to remove the spring strut. You made it so easy that I believe that I can do it. My struts are okay now however in the future I may need to replace them and would like to get the loaded struts which are two winches taller than the originals. What problems might I have with these kind of struts? Doesn't wear out the axle sooner, tires, etc.?
Do you rotate your tires regularly? 50,000 is pretty close to the tread life of the tires. You can double check the install and make sure nothing has come loose, otherwise don't just assume that shop that did the alignment did it correct. I would rotate the tires and see if the wear continues. If so then have a different shop realign it. I've had this kit in for well over a year now, almost 20,000 miles. I rotate the tires every 6,000 and have not had any uneven wear or handling issues.
I just park the truck on a flat hard surface. Measure from the ground, past the center of the wheel to the center top of the wheel well. Measure front and back and the differance would be the MAX lift hight
I see one other important step that was missed. re-aiming the head lights so you don't blind oncoming drivers. Especially if you put any groceries in the bed. I say this because as with dropping the rear a couple inches with a trailer, you can impact oncoming traffic at night, same with front leveling kit.
Not sure if that info is in the manual. All depends on how often you tow, tongue weight etc. I just aim my lights at a garage door and adjust them down about 2 inchs on 25 ft and try it.
Awesome video and great looking truck! Thanks for sharing. What all tools do you need for this install, aside from the regular wrench/socket set? I saw you used a grinder, pry bar and files. Any others? Thanks!
Did you use a torque wrench on any bolts? I installed this kit a few years back and I am changing out to a Rancho Quick lift. I had a buddy help and I cant recall if we used a torque wrench. Thanks.
The truck looks really nice. I just bought one my self and want to do the same to it. Does it really need an alignment afterwards or Ur it just recommended and will it function properly . Thanks
Thanks for commenting. An alignment is recommended by the manufacturer to insure that there is no uneven or accelerated wear of front suspension components or tires. This may be more of a liability issue for the manufacturer than an actual necessity, but for $50-$75 the alignment is good piece of mind. Congrats and good luck with your new ride.=)
whats the advantages between installing the spacer that goes on top of the strut instead of on the bottom. I know both are available for the newer style chevys. It seems that the ones that are put on the bottom are a little bit easier to install. just wondering because im doing some research to lift mine as well
Great tutorial, but noticed that an important piece of information was not mentioned. When installing upper strut spacers of that style, the new studs at the top are off position by 120 degrees. The top of the strut assembly may be under too much tension to reposition without loosening the tensioning nut at the top of the strut. A coil spring compressor may be necessary to release tension just enough to turn the top 120 degrees - this is what I had to do. Was there a trick you used to do this without a compressor? I imagine this may not affect everyone, depending on the truck.
It looks like he just rotated the whole strut around. I found it to be very difficult to get the lower strut bolts back through the strut, as the strut mount was angled. Used a screw driver and patience to get it back together. But after all that, I found a 3" spacer is too large for a factory upper a-arm. It positions it too close to the suspension stop on the frame.
That's pretty cool man you have some skill hey I have a 1995 Chevy silverado extended like yours and I put those kind of rims on it and I was wanting to lift it enough so I have more clearance for my trucks body but I don't want to lose power through a full lift would this be ideal for Chevy can you help me thanks
@josecarlos237 The skidplate should not need to be removed unless the kit includes drop brackets for the front diff.,which is common with 2 1/2" and larger lifts
As of yet, I am still running the stock wheels and tires, but a 2" lift should allow up to 33" tall tire. I have Installed several add-ons. Videos of all those can be seen on my channel.
ok, just wondering because i have a dodge, and i heard that i would need a spring compresser when i install a 2 inch leveling kit. Didn't know if it would be different or not
I just a '13 Silverado Z71 with the same stock wheel as you, and I am planning to put on a leveling kit this week. What size tire do you run, and what have you found to be the largest you can fit? (Mind you, I'm just starting your video, you may answer that in a few). Have you done anything else to your truck since adding the kit?
Another quick tip, mark or measure the studs and put the nuts back on all the way, cut the studs, then take the nuts off and ur threads will be "re-threaded" for u instead of trying to file em juuuuust right. I'm not sayin'....I'm just sayin'.
jptrustno1 Good tip ,usually.But on most vehicles they use nylon lock and if you try to thread them off with a burr on the end of the stud it will damage the nylon threads..
A clear and understandable video on this process and thanks for the effort. 2 quick questions: For a 2" lift, do any struts, springs, or any other suspension components need to be changed to a different size? Also, are lift kits pretty standard for all trucks? (I have a 2003 Dodge Ram that I plan to lift.)
I understood that anything over 2.5 inches would need new shocks. I have a 02 ram 1500 quad cab 2wd that i am planning to level and I think i will need atleast a 2.5 inch level kit because i have so much rake in the front. i would like to replace the shocks to as they have never been replaced. other than shocks you shouldnt have to touch anything else unless the part is worn out.
You installed the strut backwards. You forgot to loosen the strut coil spring bolt and clock the spring so the strut could be installed properly. This needs to be done with all of the top spacer lift kits. The Rough Country bottom spacer kit is much easier to install and doesn't require the coil spring to be clocked like the top spacer kits. How's it been holding up since you didn't install it properly, any issues?
4:45 Put a nut on and tighten it past the part you are going to grind off. After grinding and filing, take the nut off and it will help you when you try to put a nut back on it.
GM HDs have t bars and the 2007-current GM half tons use a coilover assembly. Your HD would utilize T bars as you don't have a coilover strut assembly upfront.
im putting on a bigger tire on my f350 going from a 33" to a 35" and im worried about them rubbing. so i thought i will need a front end leveling kit, but i don't know how much i should level it by 2.5" or 3" i don't want the front taller then the back, i more want it to look even. what do you think i should do? ·
You would be better off just getting a complete 4" lift kit, you have to make sure to keep the driveline in propper alignement or you'll wear out u-joints and such. Rough Country offers an affordable basic lift. Even a 2" leveling kit requires a front end alignement.
this Is a suspension lift if I may ask..? pardon me for the stupid question but I am looking at a 2 inch body or suspension lift and I cant tell the main differences. how much did this cost and where did you get it? I am trying to lift my truck about 2 or 2.5 inches and find the best lift for the cheapest price. don't get me wrong but im on a budget and trying to find a lift for the right price. if you could advise me on which one to get I can give you my email? -thanks-
Dont go too big, or the upper a-arm will be too close to the suspension stop on the frame. I bought a 3" and it had less than 1/4" clearance without an aftermarket upper a-arm.
totally different type of suspension older style chevys use torsion bars in place of leaf or coil springs newer chevs have coil over front suspension (no torsion bars)
After watching this video I noticed one thing I would do different. I would have unbolted the calipers from the brackets before lowering the jack that is supporting the lower control arm. It looked like there was some decent tension on the flex hose. That is not a good technique
@boomhauer76 lift spacer is from "heavymetallifts" on ebay sells for $69.99, other sizes are available also. check 'em out, its a great deal. P.S. don't forget your before and after pics:)
+Josh Ulbrik throws off the front geometry there's a kit for that it's considered a lift kit with appropriate hardware....this is just a puck level....two different things...👍✌
+Jay Usher all so I believe with the 3" and over the taller spindles have to be used plus that's where you may need to correct the front transfer case geometry....also....these newer trucks are very particular about changes in geometry of the drive line.....!!
you are my inspiration for installing this myself this summer.. you couldnt have explained any better and made any clearer thank you
Just did mine using Motofab 2" leveling kit. I recommend that over these two piece welded spacers. Motofab is a single piece billet aluminium, powdercoated for protection. My son did the same, but used some of the short cuts posted here and had a much more difficult time doing it as I did using this technique of removing everything. NOTE: put factory nuts back on the studs, tighten them down just below where they need to be cut...(Dremel tool works great) do a quick touch up on the end of the stud with file, remove the nuts and the threads will be nice and clean.
Thanks for posting! Really helped on the same install for my Avalanche. Lifted it a lot more than I thought it would!
Definitley looks better now. My 2000 gmc sierra 2500 needs this so bad
A few tips for anyone doing this at home. When dealing with a sway bar, it's usually much easier to work with if you loosen or remove the middle sway bar hangers. This takes the tension off the sway bar so you don't need to pry on it. Instead of using the files to clean the threads on the studs after you've cut them, you can go to the local hardware store and buy some cheap nuts that will thread onto the studs. Put them on before you cut the studs, and taking them off will clean the threads.
that is a beautiful truck man. trying to get on here in South Ga. the lift is nice.
I have a 97 chevy c25. I HATE nose diving trucks. If your truck is an older, 2wd work truck that sits with its butt in the air, 2 inches won't level it at all.... You need 3-4 inches. I went with a 4inch spindle lift and I love it. They keep your factory steering and suspension at the same angles they are the ONLY way to go!!
I'm glad you found the video helpful. "One of the best UA-cam videos", not sure about that though ;)
As far as replacing the struts, as long as they are the correct fit for your truck they should not cause any accelerated wear issues, provided you follow regular routine maintenance.
Nice vid was very clear good job thanks!
Good video ! Fixing to do mine this weekend .
Very nice truck, huge improvement!
It kind of depends on the type of tire. A highway or all terrain may fit but an aggressive mud terrain might rub on the inner fender. You need to remember that you need clearance when you turn the wheels to full lock left or right. Also when you are on uneven terrain the wheels will push up further into the wheel wells.
All that being said you can fit larger tires w/out a lift but you will likely have clearance issues at some point.
A trick with cutting those studs is leave you nuts on while you cut the stud and when you back the nut off it will help clean the threads back up, but anyway good video man
You did a really good job on the truck and video. ;)
Nice video man. Very cool.
Do you have to remove the tie rod and ball joints?I've seen people remove the whole strut unit with out having to do that. If you can remove the whole unit I feel you can install the level kit with out having to undo the ball joint and tie rod end.. No?Only asking because I'm trying to draw a game plan for my install this weekend.Thanks
No. Strut stays fully assembled so no spring compresser required. With upper ball joint dissconected, lower control arm will drop far enough to allow the strut to be easly removed/put back into place
@martinsteele05 you can still go back to stock,it's only the non-threaded portion of the bolts that get cut off. struts could always be replaced also. the best option for you though would be to go with a 2.5in lift and bolts don't get cut at all.
Any time you do work like this it's best to check the condition of your ball joints and your strut, replacing parts that are worn or damaged.
Yes. The installation instructions recommend that the vehicle be aligned afterwards.
Looks good man.
just like @jptrustno down below said, before you cut the stud, run a nut all the way down. then cut the stud and remove the nut. the nut will correct the threads.
Now throw on some bigger 275/75's to take up some of that new space and it looks like a beast.
instead of using a file, leave a nut on and unscrew the nut after you cut the bolt off. that way you re-thread the bolt and its a lot easier
Went through a whole lot of pointless steps. I did mine by disconnecting the stabilizer rod, removed the strut, added the spacer, and put the strut back in. Never touched the tie-rod or ball joint.
On a 4wd?? Just got an 18' z71, I'm trying to decide on spacers. 100bux or what some hqve referred the "right way " coil overs. 1,000. How has your trucks front end held up..ball/cv joint, A arm issues? I really dont want to touch it but the front has no clearance.
Good job man.
Hows the front tires? Bet the outside of those tires are shot. U need to shorten your uppers to get a decent alighment
One of the best UA-cam videos I have watched! You really saved me. I need to remove and replace the upper control arm and to do this I need to remove the spring strut. You made it so easy that I believe that I can do it. My struts are okay now however in the future I may need to replace them and would like to get the loaded struts which are two winches taller than the originals. What problems might I have with these kind of struts? Doesn't wear out the axle sooner, tires, etc.?
Thank you for the reply.
Do you rotate your tires regularly? 50,000 is pretty close to the tread life of the tires.
You can double check the install and make sure nothing has come loose, otherwise don't just assume that shop that did the alignment did it correct. I would rotate the tires and see if the wear continues. If so then have a different shop realign it.
I've had this kit in for well over a year now, almost 20,000 miles. I rotate the tires every 6,000 and have not had any uneven wear or handling issues.
I just park the truck on a flat hard surface. Measure from the ground, past the center of the wheel to the center top of the wheel well. Measure front and back and the differance would be the MAX lift hight
I see one other important step that was missed. re-aiming the head lights so you don't blind oncoming drivers. Especially if you put any groceries in the bed. I say this because as with dropping the rear a couple inches with a trailer, you can impact oncoming traffic at night, same with front leveling kit.
YES!! thank you.
unimogdave what's the recommended light adjustment
Not sure if that info is in the manual. All depends on how often you tow, tongue weight etc. I just aim my lights at a garage door and adjust them down about 2 inchs on 25 ft and try it.
unimogdave how do you adjust the headlights on these trucks?
you made it look easy.. thanks :)
Looks good Shadowjr660!
great video. very helpful to a newb.
Awesome video and great looking truck! Thanks for sharing.
What all tools do you need for this install, aside from the regular wrench/socket set? I saw you used a grinder, pry bar and files. Any others? Thanks!
Did you use a torque wrench on any bolts? I installed this kit a few years back and I am changing out to a Rancho Quick lift. I had a buddy help and I cant recall if we used a torque wrench. Thanks.
The truck looks really nice. I just bought one my self and want to do the same to it. Does it really need an alignment afterwards or Ur it just recommended and will it function properly . Thanks
Thanks for commenting. An alignment is recommended by the manufacturer to insure that there is no uneven or accelerated wear of front suspension components or tires. This may be more of a liability issue for the manufacturer than an actual necessity, but for $50-$75 the alignment is good piece of mind.
Congrats and good luck with your new ride.=)
whats the advantages between installing the spacer that goes on top of the strut instead of on the bottom. I know both are available for the newer style chevys. It seems that the ones that are put on the bottom are a little bit easier to install. just wondering because im doing some research to lift mine as well
Did you need to compress the spring at all to get it back to its normal position?
Would this work on 2010 chevy colorado 2wd.? Plz help i hate the nose dive on my truck
Great tutorial, but noticed that an important piece of information was not mentioned. When installing upper strut spacers of that style, the new studs at the top are off position by 120 degrees. The top of the strut assembly may be under too much tension to reposition without loosening the tensioning nut at the top of the strut. A coil spring compressor may be necessary to release tension just enough to turn the top 120 degrees - this is what I had to do. Was there a trick you used to do this without a compressor? I imagine this may not affect everyone, depending on the truck.
It looks like he just rotated the whole strut around. I found it to be very difficult to get the lower strut bolts back through the strut, as the strut mount was angled. Used a screw driver and patience to get it back together.
But after all that, I found a 3" spacer is too large for a factory upper a-arm. It positions it too close to the suspension stop on the frame.
That's pretty cool man you have some skill hey I have a 1995 Chevy silverado extended like yours and I put those kind of rims on it and I was wanting to lift it enough so I have more clearance for my trucks body but I don't want to lose power through a full lift would this be ideal for Chevy can you help me thanks
@josecarlos237 The skidplate should not need to be removed unless the kit includes drop brackets for the front diff.,which is common with 2 1/2" and larger lifts
Dont forget that once you level the truck youre going to have to reaim your headlights.
at the time I left the back completely stock. I have since added a Firestone Ride Rite airbag system, to adjust and maintain level ride height.
after you installed the level kit, you needed your aligment your truck?
As of yet, I am still running the stock wheels and tires, but a 2" lift should allow up to 33" tall tire.
I have Installed several add-ons. Videos of all those can be seen on my channel.
Did you have to adjust your headlights? I'm thinking of leveling my 2016.
Hey thanks for the video! what brand leveling kit is that and where can i get one?
ok, just wondering because i have a dodge, and i heard that i would need a spring compresser when i install a 2 inch leveling kit. Didn't know if it would be different or not
I just a '13 Silverado Z71 with the same stock wheel as you, and I am planning to put on a leveling kit this week. What size tire do you run, and what have you found to be the largest you can fit? (Mind you, I'm just starting your video, you may answer that in a few). Have you done anything else to your truck since adding the kit?
you find its not soo nose heavy anymore?
Good video
Nice video
What is the difference between what you did and replacing the torsion keys to get a 2" lift?
Another quick tip, mark or measure the studs and put the nuts back on all the way, cut the studs, then take the nuts off and ur threads will be "re-threaded" for u instead of trying to file em juuuuust right. I'm not sayin'....I'm just sayin'.
jptrustno1 Good tip ,usually.But on most vehicles they use nylon lock and if you try to thread them off with a burr on the end of the stud it will damage the nylon threads..
A clear and understandable video on this process and thanks for the effort. 2 quick questions: For a 2" lift, do any struts, springs, or any other suspension components need to be changed to a different size? Also, are lift kits pretty standard for all trucks? (I have a 2003 Dodge Ram that I plan to lift.)
I understood that anything over 2.5 inches would need new shocks. I have a 02 ram 1500 quad cab 2wd that i am planning to level and I think i will need atleast a 2.5 inch level kit because i have so much rake in the front. i would like to replace the shocks to as they have never been replaced. other than shocks you shouldnt have to touch anything else unless the part is worn out.
Good point.
What brand of lift or spacer are you using? Looks faily simple to install. I want one for my 2011 Silverado.
You installed the strut backwards. You forgot to loosen the strut coil spring bolt and clock the spring so the strut could be installed properly. This needs to be done with all of the top spacer lift kits.
The Rough Country bottom spacer kit is much easier to install and doesn't require the coil spring to be clocked like the top spacer kits.
How's it been holding up since you didn't install it properly, any issues?
No it doesnt
Good video. Hopefully I can do this and not have to pay someone $300 to do it for me.
4:45 Put a nut on and tighten it past the part you are going to grind off. After grinding and filing, take the nut off and it will help you when you try to put a nut back on it.
After a level you need to align your tires ASAP or your tires will be torn to shred quick
+christian sarver
Took mine in after doing it...still in spec and nothing needed to be done.
Doesn't mean you shouldn't do it.
typically the lift throws camber off a little
what's the advantage of this over the torsion keys? I'm looking to level my 2500 chevy and not sure which way to do it
GM HDs have t bars and the 2007-current GM half tons use a coilover assembly. Your HD would utilize T bars as you don't have a coilover strut assembly upfront.
@jmaface4radio Thanks for the comment, glad you like it. As for tools required for the job what you see was all I needed.
What is the cost of the kit? Do you have to make any other changes for it to perform the same?
im putting on a bigger tire on my f350 going from a 33" to a 35" and im worried about them rubbing. so i thought i will need a front end leveling kit, but i don't know how much i should level it by 2.5" or 3" i don't want the front taller then the back, i more want it to look even. what do you think i should do?
·
Since you disconnected your tie-rod would that effect your alignment?
it wouldnt affect alignment unless he loosened the locknut and turned the adjuster sleeve.
How off was the camber in the alignment?
You would be better off just getting a complete 4" lift kit, you have to make sure to keep the driveline in propper alignement or you'll wear out u-joints and such.
Rough Country offers an affordable basic lift.
Even a 2" leveling kit requires a front end alignement.
did you have to remove the factory skid plate because many instructions say you have to before you put the kit
have 98 2wheel want to raise front what kit do i need where can i find it.
this Is a suspension lift if I may ask..? pardon me for the stupid question but I am looking at a 2 inch body or suspension lift and I cant tell the main differences. how much did this cost and where did you get it? I am trying to lift my truck about 2 or 2.5 inches and find the best lift for the cheapest price. don't get me wrong but im on a budget and trying to find a lift for the right price. if you could advise me on which one to get I can give you my email? -thanks-
Dont go too big, or the upper a-arm will be too close to the suspension stop on the frame. I bought a 3" and it had less than 1/4" clearance without an aftermarket upper a-arm.
Leveling kits cost 150 just parts around 350 to 450 installed
why did u take out the suspention? u dint have to
get in the rack after this is installed, and Rough country kit is easyer to install:P undo the sway bar link its much easyer!
Putting the nuts on before cutting the strut studs would have saved you the filing time.
Would this work on a 05 silverado 2wd?
totally different type of suspension
older style chevys use torsion bars in place of leaf or coil springs
newer chevs have coil over front suspension (no torsion bars)
I want to lift the front to match the back. I have an 08 hummer h3. What do I need to do so?
dale vuelta a la bar
rra de torcion
@shadowjr660. where did you get the spacers? What brand are they and how much should they cost?
How much is it to get it just installed
Mericaaaa
You can run 33's stock. A 285/75/16 is a 33.
Don't for get to get the vehicle re aligned, normally it would throw your camber out and toe as well!!! Good video though!!
After watching this video I noticed one thing I would do different. I would have unbolted the calipers from the brackets before lowering the jack that is supporting the lower control arm. It looked like there was some decent tension on the flex hose. That is not a good technique
Put bolts on before grinding then back them off
New truck already has rust??!
Ikr
you put the strut in backer the end of the coil should be facing out
what did you put in the back???
Good morning..Where you order..??
@boomhauer76 lift spacer is from "heavymetallifts" on ebay sells for $69.99, other sizes are available also. check 'em out, its a great deal. P.S. don't forget your before and after pics:)
you did way more work than you needed to....
Does it ride shifter with the lift?
these dont have a torsion system?
Nope front struts
Isnt it only HD models use keys?
***** 3" kit will require an aftermarket upper a-arm. I tired a 3" spacer and it only had 1/4" or less clearance to the suspension stop.
+Josh Ulbrik throws off the front geometry there's a kit for that it's considered a lift kit with appropriate hardware....this is just a puck level....two different things...👍✌
+Jay Usher all so I believe with the 3" and over the taller spindles have to be used plus that's where you may need to correct the front transfer case geometry....also....these newer trucks are very particular about changes in geometry of the drive line.....!!
i would do this in a heart beat. o jet don't want to cut those bolts so i can go back to normal if need be
That inner cv boot must be crying in pain lol
lift spacer is from "heavymetallifts" on ebay sells for $69.99, other sizes are available also
Why do the studs need to be flush with the top of the spacer?
+Ben Burleson They have to be flush or lower, so that the spacer can sit flush with the top mount, just like the stock strut did.
@shadowjr660 Thanks man
looks hard