Liquid gold insurance - Oil Accumulator - VLOG010
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2019
- An oil accumulator is a relatively cheap investment into the health of your motor. Since installing my accumulator I haven’t had a single low pressure warning pop up on my dash.
They’re also useful for priming the motor, new oil filter or a new turbo!
All parts available at sleekaspares.com.au
- Filter relocate kit: AF64-2042 $321.95
- Moroso Accu kit: $900 ($500ish 2.8L, $400ish for solenoid kit)
- Swivel on run: RWF-145-10BK $31.99
- Hose: PFE100-10R 3.5M $34.78/M
- NPT -10: RWF-816-10BK $6.99
- 90deg -10: RWF-103-10BK $34.99
- AN Filter: AF37-10 $51
- -10 O ring fitting: PFE920-10BK $8.16
- One way valve: RWF-610-10BK $40 - Авто та транспорт
Super helpful. Thank you. Great video!
cheers Dean, i have an accumulator on my 1j with a Link and didn't even think of making a table like that to control it. Definitely have to suss that out .
Rolling Addiction Yeah, there’s definitely some cool stuff the Link can do with it. The table has to be set up specific to your car’s oil pressure too btw.
Awesome info mate. Thanks heaps for that
No worries! Hope there’s enough detail there to get you set up. Always double check everything with your tuner first too!
god damn that intro mate!!!!!!!
If you have it only open if oil pressure is low compared to rpm, how does it get recharged?
I would think a toggle switch so you can prelube the engine just before cranking but close it during cranking, then have it automatically fill/release itself during driving would be the most effective setup.
The pressure/rpm discrepancy table doesn’t account for what actual pressure is in the accumulator surely, so it might open the valve when there is 15psi pressure in the accusump and 30psi in the engine and cause even lower pressure in the engine.
Having it open continuously during warm operation would mean the pressure in the sump would be the same as the engine so if the engine suddenly drops pressure it has a supply of oil at an appropriate pressure in reserve, unless I am missing something
Hey, thanks for the comment!
1. When the solenoid is closed it acts as a one-way valve, allowing the accumulator to recharge. That 's how the system gets primed when you first install it.
2. The accumulator can be set up to deliver oil as soon as you press the start switch. Mine pumps oil as it starts cranking, then stops once the oil pump is making its own pressure. The ECU then controls when it needs to supply extra pressure.
3. The accumulator is set up to hold more than 70psi all of the time, even now while the car is sitting stationary. If the engine pressure drops and the accumulator can't help to get it up to an acceptable level, the engine will shut down instantly. The oil pressure safety table is separate from the accumulator one.
4. Leaving it open continuously would just increase the oil capacity. If the engine pressure were to drop, the accumulator wouldn't provide more pressure, it'd just get lower in pressure too.
Here's a really clear article about the valve operation - blog.cantonracingproducts.com/blog/importance-of-accusump-valve-selection-how-to-choose
@@DeanNewcombDrift ah I didnt realise the valve was one way into the unit at all times, that makses sense. Having the valve open all the time would still be better than nothing tthough as if you suddenly starve the pump of oil at high rpm round a corner the acumulator will have equal pressure to what the engine was making just before starve, say 65psi, and would discharge back into the engine until the pump builds pressure again.
The rpm/pressure table is pretty nifty and I will definitely install mine with a similar control. I cant work out why people dont use these accumulators more!!
I agree with you, and also these solenoids can fail so its honestly safer more cost effective and more accurate to go manual and let the pressure control.
Great video! Similar case on my Time Attack S15: loosing oil pressure under cornering and braking, it drops from above 500 kpa to below 300. Want to fix this with an accumulator. How much air precharge do you use?
It's been a while since I did the precharge, but I think it was maybe 10psi?
Would it make sense to plumbing directly to the rear turbo oil feed provision on the exhaust side of the engine?
I think the idea is to pump oil directly into the block so that the rotating assembly is lubricated as soon as possible. Going via another location first would delay that.
Best video! It is necessary to run a remote oil filter?
Bashshar Hussain Thanks! The main thing is that the accumulator is feeding directly to the motor. I think some filter blocks have AN fittings on them which would work.
Nice explanation. Any ideas on how fast the accumulator recovers? and in your application what size accumulator are you using? Cheers
Thanks! It should recover instantly when the pressure is above the table threshold, but I haven’t tested that. The valve isn’t restrictive so the oil should flow back pretty quickly, especially under 50+ psi.
Pretty sure mine is 3 quarts. A small part of the volume is taken up by compressed air though.
Cheers . I did notice the Strada dash as well. Are you happy with it ? I presume your running PDM and CAN buttons ?
The AIM dash is awesome. It displays and warns me about everything I need.
No PDM. Just a relay and fuse panel I made and LED switches.
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