BOOSTED Diesel Heater (KINDA) - Diesel Heater. PT- 28
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- Опубліковано 14 бер 2023
- The Lance Ulbrich video that inspired these tests • diesel heater waste oi...
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I want to point out that, at this point, that I purchased this heater out of my own pocket ... VEVOR approached me afterwards, so I purchased this heater from them based on my own research, and as you guys can see, it has taken all of the abuse I have thrown at it !
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My Teespring - spark-bolt-city.creator-sprin...
Actual description: I was inspired by a viewer to try running compressed air into my heater. (Lance Ulbrich). This is a small sample of the testing that I did over the period of a few weeks. - Авто та транспорт
"The guy who never gives up" award should go to you. Respect! You need to fail before you succeed. Failure is normal. It gives you understanding.
Some would call this "insanity". Doing something over and over and expecting a different result... Thanks for your perspective ! haha. For real tho, I totally agree.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Don't be afraid of failures. That's how you truly learn and have deep understanding of the subject matter. From what I can see from yours and others' videos, if you burn any fuel other than fresh diesel or kerosene, you will have carbon, sulfur, impurity build up very quickly, obviously. Also if you extend the exhaust to recover 500-700W heat from it, you will also get carbonic acid condensation if not set up correctly that can block the exhaust and hence more untimely carbon build up. 😅
Super charger = (Turbo,-)(Air,-) Injection 💉! 🤘I appreciate this experiments a lot! Thanks for taking us with you!
Haha. You'd love to seem this thing beome a molten blob of aluminum, eh,🤣
Wow, I had no idea you already tried a pressurized delivery. I have lots of video's to watch before open my mouth again🤐 Nah! 🤣😂
I'm beginning to think you pushed this lil heater to it's limits. Has this become an obsession 😯
Stay tuned folks, we're gonna burn used oil CLEANLY in a diesel heater if it's the last thing we do ! 👍🏽 😎
LOL... Yeah... I literally experimented for 3 months strait ... sometimes 3-4 tests in a single day... depending how quickly the failed. The pressurized air thing showed a lot of promise.
Haha... it has become a bit of an obsession. I was actually going to name the channel "My Latest Obsession" but that name was taken by a couple of chicks doing makeup videos or something.... that had 3 videos in 4 years, haha.
Helpful hints for a better running diesel heater, first after you clean the combustion chamber or on a new one buy silicon spray in a can and spray the thinned-out type silicon made by pb blaster, spray everything down with it even the internal screen and chamber nothing sticks to silicone and when you have to take apart and do maintenance it is very easy, extends the maintenance time over 50% , next drill the air hole out bigger it is just too small the next size drill bit will do fine, next every gallon of diesel add two tablespoons of b12 injector cleaner one spoon of lucus fuel injector cleaner this will help keep the screen from carboning up If you see the white smoke and hear the rumble add more b12 . a can of b12 should be enough to treat 25 gallons, seafoam injector cleaner is useless and does not work as good as b12. , also always have the exhaust in a decline so water can leak out, and the green fuel line is good for the tank to pump but not from the pump to heater use the harder white hose line this will help stop the air bubbles, along with the position of the pump at an angle. Good luck people
I have some silicone spray that I use for mold release... I will give that a try when I get my new chamber... I believe that it is good up to 800C and I have melted copper (over 1000C) but the walls of the chamber may not get that hot.
By "drill the air hole" I assume you mean the flame initiation hole by the glow plug ? I have done that on my current chamber. 👍 I have never heard of B12 but I will look into it.
Thanks for the detailed comment.
I really like the new intro and the short version of the safety warnings. Keep going on buddy!
Thanks. I guess I don't need the long drawn out warning, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927
Not so sure.
Stupidity is unfathomable and lawyers are always ready when there is money to be made.
@@werner.x Yeah... and this is why I tried to be very clear with my warnings for so long.
I've been quite enjoying following your videos. I also have been experimenting with burning waste oil in my diesel heater. I'm not sure if there is a way to cleanly burn motor oil (new or used). I think everyone who is being truly honest online about using one of these heaters and burning various mixtures concoctions of waste oil, diesel or furnace oil, gasoline, etc are showing the same results of build up over the same approximate time frame. My unit will get between 12 to 15 hours of run time before it will either not start or flame out and that's using 50% filtered waste motor oil and 50% furnace oil. After that time frame it's plugged exactly the same as yours. Even commercial waste oil furnaces build up a similar type of residue in the burn chamber and require additional cleaning so to me that says something.
I'm convinced that the problem is the additive package that is added to the motor oil and not the oil itself. Along with used motor oil I've also experimented with waste hydraulic oil. With a mixture of 50% 32 weight waste hydraulic oil to 50% furnace oil my heater runs virtually flawless. Since my last cleaning, which was required due to the waste motor oil mixture change over, I have 41 hours on my heater. There is no operational issues other than the odd time that it won't start on the first try. I'm not claiming to be a chemist but I truly believe it's the additive package that's in the motor oil.
I'd like to see you try to remove the waste motor oil from your experiment and try different types of waste oil as see what difference that makes with your modified burn chamber. Keep up the fight.
Thanks for your detailed comment.... I think you are spot on. It's Unfortunate that there are people out there who are less than honest. Perhaps they just have too much pride to admit that they have failed.
It would be interesting to see how much the additives play a role in the ash left behind. I have learned that the black (carbon and soot) means that it is not burning hot enough, therefore not complete and the white (ash) is what is left behind when the base oil burns completely.
I'm sure there is a lab way of testing this. Take 100ml of it, heat it at X tremp for X time and then weigh the remaining sample. I have been meaning to give it a go, but don't have time to look up the details, let along conduct the testing, haha. I looked one time and they talk about using a specific vessel for the test... I believe it is to stop it from bursting into flame.
That is interesting about the hydraulic oil... This is likely due to the fact that it is more refined than engine oil. Vacuum pump oil, for example, is much more refined (triple distilled) to remove the sulphur? so that it doesn't off gas during operation. I guess if a person researched into the differences between hydraulic oil and engine oil, you might find the answer.
I hope you have a decent supply of whatever oil works for you ! That would be great.
I will likely try different oils in the future. I have a steady supply of engine oil, so that's why I have been using it, but if I had a steady supply of something else, then that would likely make more sense.
I'm looking forward to the new burn chamber testing,the one you made looks very promising.
Thanks Wallace !!
yOUR WELCOME FOR THE AIR BRUSH IDEA LOL IVE REALLY BEEN FEELING BAD MY ARTHRITIS IS OUTTA CONTROLL GOOD LUCK BUDDY !
Haha... Thanks ! Sorry, I couldn't remember who it was... I talk to so many people in a day. It ended up working a lot better than the "normal" regulator and both of them together worked even better.
@@loweredexpectations4927 lol no prob i know you talk to a lotta people lol
gasoline FUMES into air intake makes burning much more hotter! i have tested with little hose to "air cleaner" and other end into gas canister not touching the gasoline, and got it so hot that it overheated :D
Haha... yes... I have done the same thing.
I don't think this actually makes it hotter in the burn chamber. I believe much of the burn is actually happening between the wall of the burn tube and heat exchanger, outside of the burn chamber.
I forget the end results of this testing, but I believe it didn't continue to burn hot for very long before it came crashing down. I did the same thing with an alcohol bubbler.
some ecus are set to shutdown the heater if the internal temo goes above 240 degrees C but they can take a higher temperature to trigger this shutdown mode , its a saftey mechanism to protect the ecu from melting . This is written in my instruction manaul.
Yeah... the original ecu has a thermal shut down at 236C and the new one is 240 something.
Run the air thru brake tube preheat thru heater. Shorten length of the silicone rubber tube before injection into the heater. Place the tee close to the injection point.
Not totally sure what you mean. I did try preheating the air and fuel in this ideo. I also tested just preheating the air and running the fuel in at the original location, but didn't show it in this video.
Been waiting for this one 🙌
I probably should have delayed my new burner head video and did a few more of these ... but the winter season is coming to an end and a lot of people are losing interest.
@@loweredexpectations4927 short attention span is the bane of our times 🥱😁
@@yodab.at1746 For sure... haha.. the tiktok generation.
Try this, I use an external blower 0~12VDC to blow air into the heater air intake across the body of the heater. I set the heater on manual mode (1~10) and vary the air flow and monitor the temp of the output tube and the CFM. You will be surprised at the results....
I think I understand what you are saying ...
The additional air flow should scavenge / extract more heat from the exchanger. I assume the reduced load on the heaters fan will cause it to speed up and also move more combustion air.
This is basically turbocharging your heater, and as long as you keep the air fuel ratio reasonable, it should work fine.
That being said.... A lot of people get confused about heat and temperature, and they not the same thing. Measuring temperature of one thing doesn't really tell you much about heat output. Higher or lower temperatures can be differen things, depending on other variables.
@@loweredexpectations4927
I agree, I am a retired Control Systems Engineer. I'm just trying to give you info to help you promote wheat you do on UA-cam, food for thought. I'm not trying to compete with you. Do the Calculations, BTU's per Hr, etc, etc.
You are a smart dude... Smarter than the average bear. Just saying. Keep the Video's coming, Good Job !!! David McLuckey might get jealous of you,
maybe not...HaHa... It's all good.....
@@EricBoudle Sorry if my comment came across and less than kind... I didn't mean it that way. I'm just rushing through hundreds of comments trying to get to everyone, haha. Haha... Dave is the man !
@@loweredexpectations4927 No problem !
@@loweredexpectations4927I think it would be really cool if China comes out with a Diesel Heater that is say 16Kw, 32Kw etc... That would be fun to play with..... More Heat, More Power....
Their is a big advantage to having a visible flame inside of the unit it allows me to dial in the air flow and watch what it is doing. I imagine a sealed unit would be much like tuning a carb where you just listen for the sweet spot. What you said about the fuel puddling is absolutely correct you can see clearly in my video when you don't have enough air the flam will get low but as soon as you give it more it burns like crazy until that fuel is burnt then does back down to an oxidizing flame.
There are a couple things that I see that should be noted. The oil I have run so far was run through a pressure centrifuge it may reduce some of what ever is causing the white chunks. Also while centrifuging the oil is heated and drives off moisture from the oil. There is always moisture in oil caused by crankcase condensation and it's prob more then you think. In my large burner it can cause odd burn characteristics but because of it's size it doesn't care much. The little burner may care more.
The next thing is that these burners will throttle themselves based on the output heat. If you are running it with the fuel setting too high on the ECU you may be running more BTU then the blower can manage so it starts to throttle back the fuel then if that doesn't work the unit will shut down. On my unit having the end cut off my heater body doesn't really get very warm because all the heat is expelled from the end. So that being said my heater may never go into this throttling mode and or shut down bc of excessive heat
Yeah... so many people have been telling me to put a window in the heater or something like that, haha. I can see how that is helpful for sure. If I'm still struggling with this next winter, I may do something like you have and give up on the "average person mods"
I like the idea of extending the heat exchanger a few feet with a 3" aluminum tube with the exhaust on the end of it...Or something like that. I'm glad you agree with my assessment of the fuel pooling and then burning up.
I know for sure that there is water in my oil, haha, so yeah, that is something to take note of for sure. I wonder if a few percent alcohol would take care of this? It makes sense that the little burner would care more as it gets so little fuel.
Someone else mentioned the throttling... My VEVOR controller does this, and it is very obvious, at 210C it cuts the fuel in about half, and picks up when it goes to 208. The "new", now broken ECU never seemed to do that that I noticed.
In a few tests, that I didn't show, I took the end cap off the heater to stop it from going over 208 and then fed enough air for the fuel input. From what I recell, the housing temp would start to drop quite low and so I aborted that testing.
@@loweredexpectations4927 you could try a small sample of oil heated in an old pan for awhile to drive off moisture just make sure not to do it over an open flame😂 the water would still be there regardless of the alcohol it would mix with the alcohol and most likely cause the alcohol not to blend.
I'm wondering if with the adjustable ECU you can't cut the oil supply low enough that it just gets you back to the proper burning BTU. Instead of giving it more blower air just give it less fuel
@@lanceulbrich6249 For a while I was doing all sorts of experiments adding stuff to the oil, heating it, putting acid in it... Not something that you want to be doing indoors in the winter unless you have a proper fume extractor, haha.
You think that the water may cause the alcohol not to mix with the oil ? They use Methanol as gas line de icer as it mixes with the gas and water, allowing you to consume the water instead of it building up.
I did do lots and lots of experimenting with pump hz... I spent about 3 days working my way from too lean to too rich.... Also with every new modification, the heater would have a different happy place. Some would run around 3.2hz and others would require close to 6. I may publish more videos about my testing and just make them unlisted and leave a link to them somewhere.
Even tho I don't care if a lot of people watch them, the "problem" with releasing videos that few people will watch is that youtube is like "hmmmm, we see only a few people watched these videos... I guess we won't recommend this channel to anyone". I don't think they will "punish" me if I make them unlisted.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I'm thinking the alcohol wouldn't mix. It would burn separately on its own but require more fuel at the points that it was burning the less flammable mix. Just a thought could be wrong.
I get oil from some drag racers always full of methanol it does seem to stratify.
ua-cam.com/video/_OrD7ksDMU4/v-deo.html
You will never be able to get waste oil to burn cleanly because it contains incombustible materials like metals and oxides, no matter how hot you get it it will always gum up with white stuff. What you need is a separate air tight, heated chamber / box so that the waste oil is evaporated somewhere that can be cleaned out easily and is big enough that it wont clog up. The chamber can be heated by the exhaust or by an electric element or both, you could also include a catalyst to crack the evaporated oil into smaller molecules. this gas can then be piped straight into the heater for burning with a good sized pipe that has a flashback arrestor on the end.
Thanks for the comment / input, Chris.
I am aware that oil has contaminants and will always leave ash behind. I did a test where I burnt new motor oil, and it left behind white ash as well.
The reason for trying to get higher temperatures is that when the temperatures are low, instead of the white ash, the heater produces a lot of carbon and soot. It is harder to clean and maks more smoke while running.
In my last video, I put the heater back together with a LOT of carbon, soot and oil in it. After running it hot for a while, most of this junk went away and the remaining stuff was unburnable ash.
The goal is to get it to burn the oil as completely as possible, so that only the ash is left behind, and then I can try to deal with the ash.
I have considered a "gasification" process... but then I thought, if I were doing that, why not just distill the waste oil. On demand gasification would be very interesting. I wonder how many watts it would take to vaporize the oil...
it needs to be put through a centriguge first to clean the oil, without which he is flogging a dead horse.
@@loweredexpectations4927 The number of watts does not matter at all, you can burn the gas produced to pyrolyze the oil and any energy lost will heat the room. Pyrolysis is what you want not gasification in my opinion, you will get a cleaner burn this way and you can use refluxing for breakdown of large molecules, solid fuels become an option too if you have a large enough chamber. The ash problem is not solvable by heat, it will always gum up the chamber, the only option to use the heater without a separate chamber would be with a mechanical self cleaning function that breaks up the white ash into powder as it forms, tricky. If you are having trouble with burn temp you can preheat the air using a ERG cooler on the exhaust run with air instead of water, but you will have to be careful with this, i imagine things could melt very easily.
@@ChrisDay-sx4lv I get what you are saying about the electricity not being a loss, but it costs money. If it only took a few hundred watts, then It may be worth it, but if it takes 2kw to vaporize the oil, the the cost of electricity would negate the savings of burning waste oil.
So how does Pyrolysis differ from gasification ? Isn't it just another way of saying gasification ? I think maybe what you are saying is do it at a lower temperature so that the heavier crap is left behind ?
I do believe that coming up with a practical solution to stop crud from building up will be difficult if not impossible. I have been playing with this heater for 3 months, almost every day and I do understand that, haha. This series may very well end in failure, and that was the suspicion from the very beginning.
As for the EGR... I ran hot air into the inlet in one of my tests and ended up melting the fan motor brush holder. It seemed to work well before that happened, but the test didn't last very long. I didn't use the heat from the exhaust tho, I just recirculated some of the air from the hot air outlet.
@@loweredexpectations4927 You dont need to use electricity at all, you use a flame to heat the chamber, you will only need electricity to start it producing gas that creates the flame. Pyrolysis breaks down the oil through thermal decomposition so that only the lighter fractions can escape, its done by partially condensing the gasses produced, however just evaporating it and burning it will solve the problem because no solids will make it to the burn chamber. For the hot gas you will need to pump it on the cool side rather than sucking on the hot side and have a metal tube going from the heat exchanger into the burn chamber, You can always go a different route and create a burn chamber of your own, notice on this oil burning design that the air inlet is fully preheated by flames passing in the opposite direction, the pan at the bottom is large enough that any debris will just pile up and not make any obstruction, there is also an area of incomplete combustion creating CO which is then burnt at subsequent air jets www.youtube.com/@FarmallCafe
the new ecu will work with the old blue controller. I have two 5kw heaters using the new ecu you have and the blue old lcd controller they arrived with. they are compatable.
I have been told this a few times. I would try this but my ECU died...
I'm not sure if it makes any difference, but my original controller has blue digits, and the new one has red... I feel like these are not compatible, but it is just a hunch.
We have been using as little as 10% to 30% WMO and a little bit of petrol with no modification to the heater we got 2 and have been switching them when they stop working the longest we have had out of 1 so far is 8 day's I've been cleaning the burn chamber by scraping out what I can then using a gas torch burn it clean with the burn chamber pointing up when the torch gets it going it keeps going until it's burnt out all the oil the last time I was doing it I got it burning and put some air in the glow plug hole and it took off so I started dripping a oil mix straight down into the end of the burn chamber and it put out a good flame 🔥
Right on ! Even at 30% they still don't like it very much eh. If you are able to get kerosene cheap, that might be worth a try, instead of diesel.
The ash content is not going to go away, i would concentrate on making it self cleaning in some way, maybe a rotating burn chamber, have to get the ash out the exhaust
Spot on ! I've been thinking this for a long time now.
The reason for the continued experiments is that there are two reasons for the chamber clogging. 1. It runs cool and I get carbon and soot. 2. It burns hot and clean and I get ash.
My testing has been aimed at trying to get it to burn hot, consistently, so that I am producing ash. Then I can deal with a system to clear the ash. I have ideas for an internal auger or reciprocating ceramic disc... Not sure if any of it will work (or come to be) but I have been considering it.
never mind heater lets see you do that poor mini clasic car back to life lol
Yeah... haha... that poor Mini... I'm actually trying to sell it so I will have more space and funds, but you are not the first person to suggest that.
Shame I'm in the UK I'd love it I'm doing my boat up atm though lol
TRY this get rid of air compressor and pump and try using a pump up bug/weed sprayer
Might need to figure out how to regulate amount of fuel with quarter turn valve or maybe even air regulator would do it
My new chamber will use a nizzle and spray fuel in (I hope) but the issue with a sprayer, in most cases, is that these heaters use a crazy small amount of fuel. At full heat they use about a tablespoon per minute, so a weed sprayer would be way too much fuel.
If you try to reduce the amount of fuel to a reasonable level, then it no longer sprays out, it just dribbles.
Have you thought about using 2 regulators? maybe one hefty one to bring it down to a reasonable level, then the final one before it goes into the unit...? (put an expansion chamber in between them)
Yeah... I did end up doing that and am currently running it that way now. The large one first into the small one , and then into the heater. I don't have a chamber, but now the pressure only fluctuates a few psi
For a better regulator, use an adjustable propane & measure in inches of water?
That could be an option. Thanks for the comment.
👍😊
Thanks !
Run the the first regulator and set it at 85 psi then after that use the second regulator.
I tried something like this. I set the first one to 25 psi and the second is a flow regulator... the pressure stayed within a few psi when doing this.
I'm not sure the psi or flow rate you're using but a barbeque flame control valve is a nice controller.
Wait..... Adding propane to the burn?
Great vids bud.
@@YouThinkAboutThis Aaaah yes... I bet that would be a fairly accurate way to control flow / psi. I have thought of using propane, and have have held my torch up to the air inlet a few times while running, but for some reason it scares the heck out of me, haha.
Now that you find out you are running rich. You can put in oxygen sensor at the exhaust to get reading so you can adjust fuel and air ratio. (You do realize that you are building something similar to a car, right?)
Haha... yes, in some ways it is like a car. I have seen David McLuckie's videos where he installed an afr gauge... he has issues and ended up using CO to tune his. I would like to give it a try though.
I really don't want a heater just like yours. I want one that works!!!! 😮
LOL... I said "similar to mine" 🤣😂 ... No one wants a heater just like mine... not even me !!
@@loweredexpectations4927 Similar:
alike
(much) the same
indistinguishable
close
near
almost identical
homogeneous
interchangeable
kindred
akin
related
much of a muchness
comparable
like
corresponding
parallel
equivalent
analogous
matching
much the same as
comparable to
close to
near (to)
😅🤣😂
@@donnied6759 lol... that looks like it took a bit of effort !
I choose "resembling, without being identical" .
How about an annular combustor like a jet engine?
This works much better when fuel is injected at pressure. In these heaters, the fuel is dribbled in and not under pressure, despite what many people say. Due to the extremely small fuel volume, metering a fuel system like this under pressure would be incredibly difficult. Pressure is resistance to flow, and in this case, the flow is almost nothing.
A 50 50 mix of kero and used oil will burn perfectly.
Are you sure about that, have you tried it in one of these heaters? I have tried 50/50 waste oil and diesel and it only worked for a few days before clogging up and I have had several people tell me that they have run as little as 30% waste oil and 70% kerosene, and still had issues.
You need some EGR experiments
Yeah... it's on my long list if things to do.
That is alot of heat inside that contraption, maybe too much for the electronics...That cat is alot smarter than us..I shoveled my driveway and changed all four rotors and brakes, emergency brakes too, had a stuck caliper pin, of course, and a rear rotor that did not want to be dislodged from it's home.. As that star gear that loosens the E-brake didn't want to cooperate(rust)...Changed the oil and filter, rotated the tires, and then cleaned up my mess, which was extensive..Unfortunately there is too much stuff in my garage, so it was driveway mission, in the freezing cold...Would have probably cost $800 at a garage, $250 in parts, so it was well worth $550, if not more, to do it myself..Interesting experiments...
Yikes !! I have had to work out in that sort of a situation many times, and it sucks every single time !! Motivation for you to clean out your garage ? 🤣
Yes, Quasar is way smarter than we are... He asks to go outside and when it is this cold he usually ends up sitting on the heat register instead, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I live in a tiny house I built, it's only 550 square feet, plus a 300 square ft. garage, so I sacrifice the garage for tools and projects mostly, and washer and dryer.I built my solar system, dug my water wells, installed my septic system, and wood burners..So, no monthly bills, other than internet..Don'r care about working in the driveway..I can usually pick a nice day, even in the winter, but I had that stuck caliper slider pin, which was causing a rear brake to be stuck on, so I had to fix that asap..I build electric bikes, and motorcycles and transform regular mountain bikes into ebikes for people, build high powered computer systems for people, design and install solar systems for people, build solar powered battery generators for people, build tiny houses for people, etc., All at a leisurely pace, just for something to do, that I enjoy..So my garage isn't getting emptied any time soon..It's full of tools and projects..Run an AirBNB too..Quasar is a good name.
@@realeyesrealizereallies6828 Oh... okay... so it's not just full of christmas decorations, haha !! That's awesome. You sound like an interesting person. I used to work at a MTB shop and was into cycling / racing for some time. I still ride BMX some. Sounds like a very interesting life / career. 🤟
@@loweredexpectations4927 My mom still has a room full of trophy's from racing BMX, and 125 and 250 YZ Yamaha's, Gold Glove Boxing, and Jiu-Jitsu..I sold almost all my Bitcoin last year when it hit 52 thousand a piece, 24 of them, which I just luckily got into at the beginning, because of a friend..I mined Bitcoin when you could do it on a laptop, and then I had 20 mining rigs with video cards, for awhile..Don't really do anything for a living since then..Just hobby's that help people/friends get off grid, as much as possible..As I can see where we are headed..I really do love the electric bikes, charging them with solar is just free fun transportation, especially living in the middle of the Adirondack Forest..The one I built for myself cruises easily at 50 mph..But can still do single track mountain bike trails, haul stuff, and joy ride..
@@realeyesrealizereallies6828 Awesome. I've never seen a real BMX track, that I remember, and I have only seen a few BMX race bikes at our indoor park. I've ridding all sorts of bicycles, but never really focused on one thing for more than a few years. I think my favorite was urban trials riding.
That's an awesome place to be, able to do you enjoy, tinker and help others ! I have kinda been doing that for a few years now, just FOOLISHLY without the financial security, lol. Good for you !! A bike that still does single track well and also goes 50 sounds intense ! And like a lot of fun !
Can you exchange the fuel in your petrol car and dump tar into the tank. I am sure after extensive cleaning and mods it will be possible, might take over 100 attempts to but it's bound to work in the end!
Hmmm ... Maybe that will be my next series of videos... Thanks for the idea.
I don't want to spoil it for you, but tar is actually a byproduct / heavier fraction of refining crude into gasoline and other fuels... So that's not going to work... However, oil can be refined down further into diesel, gasoline and other gasses... so your comparison is flawed.
@@loweredexpectations4927 My comparison is not flawed, It is a comparison to you using waste oil instead of kerosene or diesel for which these burners are designed for. My previous comment was sarcastic as I just don't get why so many of you are so determined to make these things work off old oil. Don't any of you take into consideration the amount of time and money it takes to keep taking these things apart to clean them and or modify them and yet still struggle and can not get these things to run reliably on old engine oil? Whereas, it is much easier and simpler to make a basic and I mean basic waste oil burner to burn with a lovely blue flame burn very quietly and have little residue and cleaning 2 minute job if that, and it is reliable. It's not as if you guys are lazy because of the massive amount of effort you put into getting these diesel burners to chug on oil, so why not make it easy and cheap for yourselves and make a very simple oil burner and save the money you give to the Chinese for a stolen idea anyway. Not that I blame the Chinese for their copy of the webatso design because webasto ripped people off for decades.
@@loweredexpectations4927 The really funny thing is mindyou, Hydrogen is produced from crude and coal anyway 😂
@@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr Yes, Hydrogen is produced in many different ways. Off gassing when charging some batteries, chemical reaction of drain cleaners and in hydrogen generators via electrolysis among many others.
do you have a cutting torch kit ? you could connect the oxygen tank to replace your air compressor hose , results should be impressive ... ok might not be cost effective but why not :-)
HAHA... My buddy offered to let me use an oxygen enricher that he has.... I told him I'd only try it when I have a spare heater kicking around, because the end result will probably be a melted heater. I love the idea tho.
if you heat up the body to much it will start to throttle the fuel pump (aka slow down) to lower the body temp and then pick back up as the temp starts to fall
maybe this is happening when your not there watching ?
Yeah, I have noticed this on my VEVOR ECU. Once it hits 210C,it cuts the pump speed in half. It is possible that this was happening, but I have never noticed this with the programmable ECU. It doesn't indicate the temp in C, just bars of heat. It is possible that I didn't notice, but I notice it all the time on the VEVOR ECU.
@@loweredexpectations4927 i does happen with the older ecu that you were using as they are the ones i run on all my heaters and this happens if you put an air filter on the unit
@@loweredexpectations4927 also i used to have a waste oil water boiler I made years ago and there was always carbon build up like you are getting every day that i had to cleanout. so don't think there is really a way to have it not build up
@@NightshiftCustom Okay, it makes sense that both ECUs would do it... I didn't hear my new one do it, so I assume that I'm usually over or under the threshold temp.
@@NightshiftCustom I think you are right about not being able to avoid build up, however, there are different types of build up. There is carbon, soot and ash. Carbon and soot happen when you aren't burning hot enough (for whatever reason) and ash is what is left over when you get a complete burn of the oil. My goal is to have a dependable, complete burn and only be left with ash, and then maybe I can come up with a way to disperse the ash. Until I get consistant results, it is hard to design something that could clear ash.
Slowly i get the idea, that outside there in the "modify your diesel heater"- world there is some imagination, that the ideal constellation of clean burn would be instant gasification of fuel at entry point.
That's not gonna happen, unless you're building a bomb.
Ideal burn happens, when fuel burn away slowly in layers.
And the ideal inlet stays cool.
The hotter the inlet, the more prone to clogging with unburnable residues.
And the inlet normally fortunatelly stays relatively cool because of the considerably high energy draw from the small step of fluid at vaporizing point to gas at vaporizing point.
I'm really unsure now, if all these people telling tales of clean burn, if just the vaporisation happens fast enough, are aware of basic physics.
Even the fastes instant burn leaves unburnt residues with most fuels, they usually just don't clog, because these instant burns behave like explosions with their instant release of the fuel's energy.
And with bombs already in mind i rember an instant combustion device, that could probably work well with any high residue liquid fuel.
But it is loud.
If you remember the German V1 from WWII, this bomb was driven by an incredibly simple ramjet engine, which didn't need compressed air for starting, if i remember right.
First combustion should have self generated the necessary airflow to keep it running. But i'd have to check to be sure.
But a ramjet is reduced to the bare minimum and in it's behaviour comes next to your imagined self cleaning device so far.
I was talking with someone earlier about gasification. I have considered it a few times. I'm curious as to the best method of doing so... An electric heater was suggested, but that takes power.... I'd like to use the exhaust, but you would want a large box so that it only had to be cleaned every few days or week...
Yeah... when you have an explosion clearing away carbon and soot and ash, it is less likely to gather in one spot, like in these heaters... but if you are just super heating and flashing off the oil, the unburnable stuff will just pile up in that one spot.
I was actually thinking about ultrasonic fogger things to vaporize the oil and then suck that stuff in ... not sure if it would work at all ... and it's probably not practical, haha.
I think they were .... pulse jet engines... and I have considered making one of these and using it as a heater, haha... I don't think crap would settle, but they make a heck of a lot of noise... so the question is, can you quiet them in a reasonable way without ruining the design and causing it not to function.
@@loweredexpectations4927
Only one way to find out 😁😁
Yes, pulse jet engine was the word i couldn't remember, when needed.
Then i tried an online dictionary and it didn't know it either.
@@loweredexpectations4927
One more thing.
I think, every working waste motor oil burner is so far off the original design, that it would be by far easier to dump this restrictive framework and just build the best easy to clean, safe and healthy real waste oil burner on youtube - because 99% of the shown designs won't be the ones you want to use on a daily basis.
As i said before, these eberspaecher/webasto type heater clones are a special miniaturized design for tight spaces and this comes with a price.
@@werner.x LOL... I hate it when that happens. Stupid brains. I think if you had like a thousand litre "muffler" / heat exchanger, you could do it so that it wasn't too noisy. The tricky bit is that they use pressure waves / air movement to operate... If you restrict the exhaust, I think it wouldn't operate.
@@werner.x For sure... this might be what happens next year. I'm sticking with the diesel heater because 1, I have one and 2. it is relatable for a lot of people. I also didn't want to give up too soon and have a bunch of people saying that I just didn't try hard enough... but I think that will happen regardless of the time and effort put in, haha.
Maybe 2024 will be the year of compact, DIY, fire and forget, easy clean, waste oil burners on Lowered Expectations.
What's the name of the handsome (Tom,-) Cat 🐈 ?
That's Quasar. We got him a few years ago as a "rescue". He had a broken leg. He's apparently a little siamese... I believe it because he can be a real dick sometimes, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 😂
Instead of fucking it up we need to find a way to make it better
Agreed. I have some ideas... What's your plan ? 😉
I think this may be an interesting video for your learning of oil spray heaters ua-cam.com/video/JNnhAZhe_kM/v-deo.html
Thanks ! I found that interesting. I am using a slightly different nozzle system used on kerosene heaters. It is a SNA (siphon nozzle) that is supposed to feed air through with the fuel and requires no fuel pressure, low air pressure and low cfm.