My katana was also made by them and I'm very happy with it, the only complaint I have about it is the weight, it's a bit on the heavy side. Still, very high quality steel. I've also chosen the 1095 high carbon. Also very good pronunciation for the Japanese terms!
like metertwon knows anything about japanese language, phsaw, his account was hacked, this poser is trying to gain your trust, he's bait actively searching for a phish to end his drowning misery. now that is philosophy, @shadowonthewall fake y't'r, piss off
I really like the reviews of products in the "medium" price range because that's where there seems to be the most variation. The really cheap ones are almost always crap and the really expensive ones are typically very good but in the $200-$500 range they're all over the place. For many of us, that is the price range we're going to purchase from so it's very helpful to know which ones will give us good value for the money.
I would like to share my Swords of Northshire experience. I actually ordered a completely customized shikmizue. Truly custom made. I requested a 36" overall length, Ebony wood for the saya, a 24" 1095 carbon steel blade, shiny sharp, and brass end pieces for the top and bottom. It costs me just over $600 and what a great blade! The entire piece looks like an everyday walking stick, but inside a deadly straight katana. Almost no rattle when sheathed, good fit yet a quick draw, and the blade is perfect. Kudos to Swords of Northshire for a great job. You can't go wrong with Swords of Northshire.
@@willynillyliveOh yeah it is! Considering that the sword was completely customized it was a great price! I take it out with me because I live in a dangerous state. No one even has a clue as to what's inside.
The niku type shape is historically accurate and was used to make up for the brittle edge. By having additional mass on the edge you lose a bit of sharpness but you can get away with cutting harder targets with less edge damage. They were necessary because they were expected to come across other blades and armor. Modern reproductions and some antiques usually don’t have the niku. When it comes to antiques they most likely lost the niku due to years of resharpening. Modern reproductions usually don’t have them because they save time that way and most times katana are now just uses for backyard cutting or cutting competitions so not having the niku has become the default. Here’s a cool vid about it: ua-cam.com/video/m8qceF1-zqo/v-deo.html
I had them make me a three piece set with the katana, wakizashi, and tanto. (Spring steel) I am very pleased with their work. They are very accommodating and happy to work with you to meet your exact needs. It does take about a month per blade but it's worth it in my opinion.
I had the same scuff marks in the polish on mine, so I'm both glad that you mentioned it and that I'm not also alone. It's a fantastic piece in every other way.
I went all out and had Swords of Northshire create a fully functional katana that is Clay Tempered with Folded Tamahagane back in 2016. The katana was named "Destiny's Edge" and it was a gift to myself for getting my 1st degree black belt. Since then, I did the traditional cutting test (on pigs) and it was determined to be a 3 body blade. Although I rarely take it out, unless it's for routine cleaning/maintenance, I am comforted by the fact that I have a very capable katana for the zombie apocalypse.
Hell yea! Not a cheap blade by far, but very worth it! Being a japanese American I also got one customer made with tamahagane and its my most prized possession? It's really worth the price considering I personally can't find any katana or sword for that matter made in Japan for under $10,000 USD unless it's a iaito or practice blade.
As a note, 1095 is actually less forgiving during heat treatment vs. 1080 or lower, so for blades requiring lower hardness it's better to go with one of the lower carbon steels so long as it's able to attain the required hardness. You don't get a marked performance improvement in going with the 1095 and it increases the chances of getting a heat treatment defect!
@@scholagladiatoria 1095 can get harder and sharper than 1060 or other lower carbon steels, up to 63 or 64 Rockwell C. A lower carbon steel will be tougher than 1095 (1085 is 2-2.5 times as tough), but with differentially hardened 1095 that doesn't matter as the unhardened spine will make it extremely tough.
Yeah from my admittedly limited understanding (only making blades for 2 years and mostly much smaller ones) 1095 can get harder than woodpecker lips when heat treated correctly but will be a fair bit more brittle at that hardness. That said, like the other dude mentioned the differential hardening could make up for that. Either way it's a really cool sword!
Swords of Northshire are more known for their Japanese swords, but they make some pretty decent Chinese swords too. Not as good or authentic as LK Chen in my opinion, but often more affordable and still pretty good. I recently bought a “Sino-Japanese” style Tang Dao (Chinese “proto-katana”) from them. The blade profile is pretty accurate, very similar to what surviving Tang Dao blades preserved in Japanese museums look like: straight, thick cross-section with the cutting area of the blade taking up a lesser proportion when viewed side-on compared with Japanese blades, and a sharp angular tip instead of rounded. The hand guard also has the classic Tang Dynasty Chinese “rolling grass pattern” style, though the shape of the hand guard itself as well as the hilt and sheath cord of the sword look more Japanese in style. This mixture is deliberate as this sword represents Chinese Tang Dao that were exported to Japan during the early Heian era. It’s not a direct replica of a sword from this period, but it does contain many features that are quite authentic. Later on I also bought a archaic style Chinese short sword (jian) from them made of folded steel, again decent quality and relatively good value. Another positive thing about Swords of Northshire is that they have quite good customer service. If you email them they reply quite fast, and the delivery of the sword from China to the U.K. was quite rapid as well. All of their swords are made from the forges in Longquan, a place in China with a sword-making tradition going back more than 2600 years (in European terms almost as old as the foundation of Rome). However today the actual quality of Longquan swords are quite mixed. There are some very good quality swords from there, but there are also some dodgy merchants who exploit the brand name of “Longquan” but actually make very poor swords. At least with Swords of Northshire one is getting decent value for money, you get what you pay for, they actually sell some really expensive swords too, but if one spends $200 of course it’s never going to be a “legendary blade”, but Swords of Northshire selects those Longquan forges that make decent proper swords so even if one goes for their cheapest options at least one is sure that it would be a functional blade and not a fake.
Things go wrong. It's the nature of business. How a business deals with that sort of thing is their true measure, so it's good to hear that they have good customer service.
This guy is very smart and very well spoken. For such a long video I had no problem, more rather enjoyed listening to this man. I really like this guy. Very nice video.
In addition to glue, you might try "press fitting" the kashira and fuchi to the tsuka with some careful but firm taps with a nylon hammer on the flat sides. Gluing and hammering worked well for me on a Jian that had loose brass fittings.
This site he suggested is legit battle ready blades they carry a variety an in specific one I'm looking for ninjato blade and dual wield with another of my ancestry the viking sword or axe not sure yet but I like the blade and axe use for defending with.
www.armabohemia.cz/Novestr/swordsA.htm or www.swordsviktor.com/ Not “build your own” but you can customize everything they offer or commision a full custom build. Expect to stay below 500€ in the most cases
@@scholagladiatoria Guess it has the right edge geometry. Doesn't Phillip Martin (Akidoka) have a video of him running a totally unsharpened sword across his hands without cutting himself but then he goes and cuts some tatami rolls like its a hot knife through butter?
@@alexanderren1097 Tatami mats are a very different test. You can cut cleanly with good edge geometry and good technique without much sharpness. Paper is supposed to be purely a test of sharpness (Phillip Martin alludes to that in that video when he says his longsword can't cut paper).
Just went and bought myself a northshire! Your review came out at just the right time as I was thinking of getting a katana. The customizing couldn't be easier! Seemed like the website was running abit sluggish, guess I'm not the only one 🤔😅
I had the same issue with the kashira on my Dynasty Forge katana. The rounded style seems to be more appealing to western aesthetics, but even with glue it does fuck-all to actually hold it in place. You really need to have flat sides to provide stability against lateral stress. Having your ito come unwrapped in the middle of use is no insignificant problem either, so it's something to keep in mind when you're buying a katana that isn't solely for display purposes.
can you elaborate? lots of people seem to be complaining about the Kashira coming loose with these custom katana's. whats the best shape? a flat instead of rounded bottom?> ty for your insights
I had the same thought when I heard that, but I think it's fine in this context because he's talking about a broad range of materials used instead of a particular object from history. They could have been brass, bronze, copper, any one of them.
If a Samurai, in pretty much any period, wanted a full tang and multiple pins, they could certainly have it. It would really just be a question of cost. Steel was precious, owing to the effort involved in smelting it. Regarding the cap coming loose, you don't have to fully re-wrap the ito to fix that. Just the knot at the end. Glue, if you must.. But, a tight finish to your ito should be enough.
Part of the reason the Fuchi is loose is because they do not do a full wrap of samigawa, and the wood shrinks in width and thickness. I’m not positive about this but I think you are intended to grip just below the fuchi.
I ordered one from Swords of Northshire, but I haven't received it yet because of the holiday backlog. It's going to be my first real sword in about 13 years so I'm excited. Mine should be more like a hondachi that's half anime inspired and half traditional, with the clay hardened 1095. I was thinking of making a video of the unboxing and review of it.
Greetings from Orange County, California. Thank you very much for your review. Indeed that is one of the things I really like about the SoN website is not only can you pick your sword and customize it (and why not since all those pieces seem to be modular) but as you build it there a little picture of what it looks like with the features you pick. The only thing they don't do is add the tsuba to it. But even then that's pictured off to the side. I've seen other videos were some people say that they even have an e catalog with more options that they would be happy to email you. Still, I don't know why more manufacturers do not offer that customization option, for no additional charge just to build your sword the way you want. Being modular it really should not be any hassle. Obviously a premium for premium blade metals and some other features but the basic short should it be able to be customized a lot. Looking forward to the cutting video. Cheers.
I haven't received it yet but some good reviews online, and the reviews of the customer service especially, convinced me to pull the trigger on one. I'm less concerned about problems if I know they basically bend over backwards to fix them for people.
I've purchased 3 custom blades from Swords of Northshire, all excellent quality, and the customer service is spot on. The wakizashi I had ordered arrived with a cracked saya, however, I sent them a picture of the defect and they shipped a new one out to me within a week. They've definitely earned a repeat customer from me.
Two handle pegs only make it stronger if the holes in the handle wood are placed with precision. The two pegs can and usually work against each other. The holes are slightly off to pull the handle tight against the tsuba. This is easy to get right with one pin but difficult to get two right unless you are building handle from scratch.
This is something I have noticed in knives as well as swords; some edges are refined and smooth at the apex and frankly don't feel 'sharp' when lightly touched as one does to check a sharp edge. You don't feel that immediate bitey sort of snag that less refined but sharp edges possess, due to microscopic imperfections along the edge. It also slides along paper in a dragging motion and doesn't seem to want to cut, until you push the edge into the paper as opposed to doing a more typical drag. Imagine it like a VERY fine serration. If you polish and smooth the edge very finely, it removes most of that microscopic jaggedness, which removes the bitey feeling as well. These types of edges are VERY dangerous to new or inexperienced people because they don't feel sharp, sometimes they even feel blunt. Until enough pressure is applied at which point they behave exactly like a highly refined honed edge. They cut deep and quickly, and often cleanly enough that they don't produce any pain at first. You don't know something bad happened until your friend says 'Uhhhhh, you are bleeding everywhere!?' and you frantically search for the source.
I just ordered from them and am still waiting on it but I had wanted to change some stuff after I placed the order and the customer service really is the best I’ve ever encountered
Was there ever a cutting/testing companion video? If so could we link it in the description? Your prolific work combined with youtube's less than stellar search functions have made it difficult to find
I had the same issue with the kashira on my sword and I got it from these guys, its actually not a tough fix, I learned how to tie ito and once I got a good enough wrap after some practice I wrapped it and laced it through the kashira after applying a stronger glue to the kashira, I haven’t had any issues with it since
A really fine katana despite the flaws, and a really fine review. Northshire looks to be a great katana maker. My own litmus test for sharpness is with paper. I notice some paper are harder to cut than others. Also, I have a katana which I have trained to the point where the ito became worn down, and fell apart. And yes I had to glue back the kashira ages ago...LOL
Coincidentally, I just ordered a waki from them a couple of weeks ago. It's yet to arrive, but I have to echo the comment about their great customer service. They've been incredibly responsive and helpful so far.
@@ThePreparedSailor That seems normal, they've been quiet for me as well for some weeks after placing the order. But once they're done assembling it, they should reach out to you via email (check your spam folder) with some pictures to double-check whether everything is in order before shipping. In my case the colour of the grip wrap was not quite what I wanted, and they switched it out very quickly once I let them know.
@@DerTypDa thanks man, was kinda bugging about it. Ive had an issue with Kult of Athena before where they were literally leaving me on read for months and I ended up cancelling the order. Swords of Northshire seems to have an amazing rep tho
I would be interested in ordering one of these custom swords if if was possible to get them in a gunto format. Of course being able to get it sharper would be better as well.
Wow this is an awesome site thanks bro I will make sure to use your link when making my purchase soon. One of our most traditional folded steel swords, this Japanese sword for sale has been folded 13 times to create over 8,000 layers in the metal. After removing impurities to strengthen the steel, our master-craftsmen etched the blade with a special oxidation process to create the deep dark hue that matches the sheath. Silver handle accents and an undulating dragon complete the dramatic design of this sword. Customize your weapon with different scabbard, sheath cord, and handle wrap color options at Swords of Northshire today.
I know bugger all about steel. Am I right in saying, if you want one for test cutting, 1060 is off the table? For 1095, does it need to be clay tempered or is the basic 1095 sufficient?
Quite honestly is you are going to be doing test cutting ... and you want to stay with Swords of Northshire I would get model with one of the 9260 spring steel blades. They are tough ... won't take a set ... and will have pretty decent edge retention.
Very weird. Was all set to order a sword from Swords of Northshire and when I went to check out I noticed they did not accept PayPal. When I contacted them Bryson from customer service said they don't do it because PayPal does not allow sword sales on their platform. Really weird he would say that when I know off the top of my head three of the well known Katana suppliers that clearly list PayPal on their websites as a payment method.
I have done a Custom Unokubi Zukuri, through LYUESWORD. My own money, T10 clay tempered. I'll have a vid on my channel soon. Lyuesword has even MORE custom options than Northshire, probably the same smiths.
My Dragon King swords are T10 and they're *chef's kiss* but pricey. I suspect you're right on the "same smiths" theory for a lot of these makers. Nearly identical selection and options and builds in my experience. I will say that because of that, places like SoN can get a lot more components than what they have listed. Almost none of the fittings I chose and saya color were listed on SoN's site, I just emailed them and asked if they could get what I wanted and they sourced them for me.
@@jaysblades oh very cool! My sword was only $209 after shipping. But it's REALLY well done. Like.... really nice. But I got some Wolf themed handle components and menuki, very similar to the LONE WOLF AND CUB katana from Paul Chen. The one that has the striped scabbard. I'm also rewrapping the ito, which mine was brown silk, but I've got grey Japanese silk for q new color. I'll have a vid after a bit of cutting.
Another great vid - the flower cutouts are chrysanthemums!!! jst like on the bow of Yamato - only that one is about 12 feet across and covered in gold leaf!! 😋😊😊
Matt, I wonder how common rattan wraps were on authentic swords. Have you ever seen one? Rattan is a tropical plant, it would be hard to obtain, and it doesn't last very long. BTW I think that fuchi-gashira fittings were chased or carved in iron or alloy by chisel work.
I have a $50 katana and a $100 katana, and I think they are both decent for what I paid for them. The $100 katana is obviously much better than the $50 one, which has some minor defects, but is otherwise basically fine. The $100 katana is quite sharp and free of any major defects. My only complaint would be some rough spots on the sword that make it bit uncomfortable, and the handle wrap material is not high quality, which makes it come unraveled and slide off the bottom of the handle. All-in-all, remarkably good for the price.
Matt, could you give an overview on how UK law applies to these types of swords? As they are not genuine antiques, but modern reproductions of antiques, are they prohibited or permitted?
The tsuba? Two most popular flowers in Japan Chrysanthemum (more lobes to the flower petals) Or Sakurai (cherry blossom) The second is my bet.... As far as the steel goes.... 1095 is a good steel...but has been known to crack or chip.... If you get a chance again to purchase one again....try for 1075 a lower carbon but tougher steel...similar in aspect to 5160(spring steel) The lower steels (1060 or 1055) they use for machetes usually.....
Your fingers should never been anywhere near the back side of the fuchi. If you have a bad swing (or indeed during keiko with shinai) you'll jam your thumbs up pretty badly and pretty quickly. A pistol-style grip should avoid that area entirely.
Ha Machi to Kissaki. The Ha, or more correctly the Ha Machi, where the cutting edge steps down to the Nakago, or Tang, not the Habaki is the indicator for Nagasa. Although overall Sugata of Nihonto of any period must consider if they shortened from original length, Suriage, or O Suriage.
Hello Matt or Frank, that does look like a really nice blade and I'm really curious about the cutting tests. I was wondering how tight the habaki fits the koiguchi (opening of the saya). Sometimes it can be quite loose so that the blade might slide out when pointed downwards; other times it can be quite tight so the blade is harder to draw. In the video it seemed quite loose, but I missed it in the (extensive) review
Do you know how this compares to a Ryujin Custom Katana that you can get from/through SwordBuyersGuide? I've been really closely looking at a Northshire Custom, but I've read a lot of mixed reviews about them.
I have bought and reviewed both. Both are quality choices in and amongst the custom-assembled category of which both are included in. SBG's Ryujin blades do get done a lot quicker at comparable prices. However, at SBG the customizations are rather limited as far as what you can customize. On the other hand ... Swords of Northshire allow for many more options but you might have to wait for a couple of months. Also ... if I remember correctly SBG offers swords using both T10 and 5160 ... options SON does not have. However ... you are REALLY going for it ... SON offers tamahagane (sp? ... sorry) as an option where SBG does not. So ... it comes down to what you like.
I'm not sure if a vid has been done on this, but does the type of polish have an effect on performance at all all? I'm more of a satin guy myself, but mirror requires a smoother surface to, well mirror, so would this mean if provides a smoother cut? Would there even be a difference? Or would the difference be so subtle that only a hypersensitive machine would actually detect it?
Very much enjoy the medium range reviews! I'd expect that is more relevant to a larger segment of your viewership as well. Actually, with the recent flurry of polls, a "Do you own: multiple swords, one and intend to buy more, 0 but intend to buy one, non and don't intend to buy" could be interesting! Also, I really don't care for using the Japanese words in other languages for things which have words for them. Tsuba is sort of ok as a specific type of guard, but point, edge, blade length, hilt are all perfectly fine English and far clearer to the average English speaking viewer. And I say that as a second language English speaker.
Speaking as a reviewer of primarily Chinese-made Japanese style swords ... its an interesting confluence of cultures and a desire on the part of the reviewer to show respect to those cultures. The effort being made is commendable. Also ... one of the reasons for the effort being made is that there are several parts to the katana that really have no parallel in the English language. I mean yes ... you could refer to the fuchi and kashira as a pommel cap and handle throat ... kinda. However, the vernacular is gradually absorbing these terms so that many on the sword and knife community know what they are. With all due respect ... please give those of us in the community a chance to honor the tradition of these pieces by learning the correct terminology in the correct language.
@@mr.excalibur1455 I certainly wouldn't take away the chance of anything for anyone, nor know how to do it. I'm watching these videos to learn for fun too. But the delivery is cumbersome this way. If it's an established audience and you use the terms, sure. I'd watch a video going into the intricacies of Japanese terms to describe swords just for the sake of learning too. But if it's clearly so unclear that you have to keep using both terms, it's not helping the flow of the video. Like everything, there are good and bad ways to do something and in this case, I found it offputting enough to comment as it made the video subpar for Matt. Not saying it can't be done well though, but if there's no criticism, there's no guidance to improve.
I really like that sword of yours. I think your custom options are really nice and come really well together. I am not sure if they had the option when you got that one, but now they do offer silver habaki and seppa. Small criticism in their options, they don't offer customization options for the tsuka. Yours seems fairly straight, not particularly fond of those deisgns, wish they had more options. You talking did make me think of something though. How well do we know our surviving samples are representative of their period, and how much is "survivor bias" so to speak? I imagine that more ceremonial blades (such as temple samples and noble status symbol ones) are likely over represented, and we have many modified blades too, but beyond that I have no meaningful notion on how well (or not) we can compensate for that.
Hello do you know if swords of north shire are better quality, then Hanbon swords Both of the sword companies use Long Quan China. The swords on Hanbon are cheaper 30% to 50% around. does swords north shire just mark up the price for the same thing ?
Might well be that the tsuba has camellias in it; not uncommon on a lot of katana furniture. Good review Matt. Just an aside; I've had repro katanas and iaitos with both cotton and silk tsuka-ito/handle wrap and have always found silk to feel more 'grippy' (technical Japanese term), especially with sweaty hands during training.
if it were through hardened, 1060 is a bit tougher and easier to heat treat from my experience but not easier by a whole lot however the differential heat treatment makes the 1095 a bit more appropriate because not a whole lot if swords from history were thrown hardened, but Peter Johnson has determined that traditional tamahagane swords have an edge carbon content making it similar to 1075
I'm guessing the flowers are cherry blossoms (Sakura) - the national flower of Japan. They look about right. Also, could you do a video about Katana/Dachi losing their Kisaki (tip)? Do you know of any examples? Also do Katana without their tips have anything to do with Ninjato? The shape of that sword is not particularly pointed. I can imagine Raffaello will be happy to do this too, but he can always reply to your video.
As someone who began forging my own swords in order to be truer to actual antiques, I can say that the shape of this sword looks really good, way way better than so many Chinese repros.
@@hakobo2744 Yes, a very simple one in my garden. Thats one of the advantages of living in South Africa- housing prices are such that its possible to own a property with a relatively large garden, hence i could build a forge. For anyone else who wants to build their own forge or just be knowledgeable, i highly recommend reading The Art of the Japanese Sword; The craft of swordmaking and its appreciation
please do cut review so we know how good really is, because a cheap katana that can stay together ell would raise a lot on interest rather than exploding into pieces
I have NEVER received a sword without scuff marks. This include chinese katana, valiant armoury, darksword, hanwei, windlass, etc......is that not normal?
It would be really cool if you reviewed some Lyuesword Japanese swords since for the price they really rival Swords of Northshire in a lot of ways. But, Swords of Northshire I've heard is a pretty good company.
What if I told you that SoN and Lyuesword...were getting most of their swords from Ryansword? In fact, Lyuesword and Ryansword are run by the same person.
I don't think that a visible grain pattern was much of a concern for Japanese swordsmiths until fairly late in history. If a 15th-16th century swordsmith had been offered up a ton of high quality modern 1060-1080 type steel in exchange for every blade he had in the shop, once he'd forged a piece he would've jumped at the deal and thrown in his oldest daughter to seal the deal.
My katana was also made by them and I'm very happy with it, the only complaint I have about it is the weight, it's a bit on the heavy side. Still, very high quality steel. I've also chosen the 1095 high carbon. Also very good pronunciation for the Japanese terms!
I ordered myself my first katana from them just today, because of your review. (also custom made)
Ordered mine three years ago and cut regularly never loosened for me
As long as you do not "hack" with it, everything will be fine.^^
like metertwon knows anything about japanese language, phsaw, his account was hacked, this poser is trying to gain your trust, he's bait actively searching for a phish to end his drowning misery.
now that is philosophy, @shadowonthewall fake y't'r, piss off
wink
I really like the reviews of products in the "medium" price range because that's where there seems to be the most variation. The really cheap ones are almost always crap and the really expensive ones are typically very good but in the $200-$500 range they're all over the place. For many of us, that is the price range we're going to purchase from so it's very helpful to know which ones will give us good value for the money.
I would like to share my Swords of Northshire experience. I actually ordered a completely customized shikmizue. Truly custom made. I requested a 36" overall length, Ebony wood for the saya, a 24" 1095 carbon steel blade, shiny sharp, and brass end pieces for the top and bottom. It costs me just over $600 and what a great blade! The entire piece looks like an everyday walking stick, but inside a deadly straight katana. Almost no rattle when sheathed, good fit yet a quick draw, and the blade is perfect. Kudos to Swords of Northshire for a great job. You can't go wrong with Swords of Northshire.
Not a bad price and 1095 is good steel
@@willynillyliveOh yeah it is! Considering that the sword was completely customized it was a great price! I take it out with me because I live in a dangerous state. No one even has a clue as to what's inside.
Cool
Every day he says it faster. “heyfolksmatteastonherescholagladiatora.”
matteaston
mat tea ston
*tea*
The niku type shape is historically accurate and was used to make up for the brittle edge. By having additional mass on the edge you lose a bit of sharpness but you can get away with cutting harder targets with less edge damage. They were necessary because they were expected to come across other blades and armor.
Modern reproductions and some antiques usually don’t have the niku. When it comes to antiques they most likely lost the niku due to years of resharpening. Modern reproductions usually don’t have them because they save time that way and most times katana are now just uses for backyard cutting or cutting competitions so not having the niku has become the default.
Here’s a cool vid about it: ua-cam.com/video/m8qceF1-zqo/v-deo.html
This is extraordinarily in-depth and well done. Thank you.
I had them make me a three piece set with the katana, wakizashi, and tanto. (Spring steel) I am very pleased with their work. They are very accommodating and happy to work with you to meet your exact needs. It does take about a month per blade but it's worth it in my opinion.
I had the same scuff marks in the polish on mine, so I'm both glad that you mentioned it and that I'm not also alone. It's a fantastic piece in every other way.
Thanks for sharing!!
I went all out and had Swords of Northshire create a fully functional katana that is Clay Tempered with Folded Tamahagane back in 2016. The katana was named "Destiny's Edge" and it was a gift to myself for getting my 1st degree black belt. Since then, I did the traditional cutting test (on pigs) and it was determined to be a 3 body blade. Although I rarely take it out, unless it's for routine cleaning/maintenance, I am comforted by the fact that I have a very capable katana for the zombie apocalypse.
bro killed some poor piggies
Hell yea! Not a cheap blade by far, but very worth it! Being a japanese American I also got one customer made with tamahagane and its my most prized possession? It's really worth the price considering I personally can't find any katana or sword for that matter made in Japan for under $10,000 USD unless it's a iaito or practice blade.
Practicing a breathing style. I recommend sun breathing
If you listen carefully at 19:05 you might be able to hear Metatron screaming.
As a note, 1095 is actually less forgiving during heat treatment vs. 1080 or lower, so for blades requiring lower hardness it's better to go with one of the lower carbon steels so long as it's able to attain the required hardness. You don't get a marked performance improvement in going with the 1095 and it increases the chances of getting a heat treatment defect!
I believe 1095 is better for hitting that 60 Rockwell edge hardness though?
@@scholagladiatoria if heat treated right yes, if not 1060 can be a better option i think....
@@scholagladiatoria 1095 can get harder and sharper than 1060 or other lower carbon steels, up to 63 or 64 Rockwell C. A lower carbon steel will be tougher than 1095 (1085 is 2-2.5 times as tough), but with differentially hardened 1095 that doesn't matter as the unhardened spine will make it extremely tough.
Yeah from my admittedly limited understanding (only making blades for 2 years and mostly much smaller ones) 1095 can get harder than woodpecker lips when heat treated correctly but will be a fair bit more brittle at that hardness. That said, like the other dude mentioned the differential hardening could make up for that. Either way it's a really cool sword!
Swords of Northshire are more known for their Japanese swords, but they make some pretty decent Chinese swords too. Not as good or authentic as LK Chen in my opinion, but often more affordable and still pretty good.
I recently bought a “Sino-Japanese” style Tang Dao (Chinese “proto-katana”) from them. The blade profile is pretty accurate, very similar to what surviving Tang Dao blades preserved in Japanese museums look like: straight, thick cross-section with the cutting area of the blade taking up a lesser proportion when viewed side-on compared with Japanese blades, and a sharp angular tip instead of rounded. The hand guard also has the classic Tang Dynasty Chinese “rolling grass pattern” style, though the shape of the hand guard itself as well as the hilt and sheath cord of the sword look more Japanese in style. This mixture is deliberate as this sword represents Chinese Tang Dao that were exported to Japan during the early Heian era. It’s not a direct replica of a sword from this period, but it does contain many features that are quite authentic.
Later on I also bought a archaic style Chinese short sword (jian) from them made of folded steel, again decent quality and relatively good value.
Another positive thing about Swords of Northshire is that they have quite good customer service. If you email them they reply quite fast, and the delivery of the sword from China to the U.K. was quite rapid as well.
All of their swords are made from the forges in Longquan, a place in China with a sword-making tradition going back more than 2600 years (in European terms almost as old as the foundation of Rome). However today the actual quality of Longquan swords are quite mixed. There are some very good quality swords from there, but there are also some dodgy merchants who exploit the brand name of “Longquan” but actually make very poor swords. At least with Swords of Northshire one is getting decent value for money, you get what you pay for, they actually sell some really expensive swords too, but if one spends $200 of course it’s never going to be a “legendary blade”, but Swords of Northshire selects those Longquan forges that make decent proper swords so even if one goes for their cheapest options at least one is sure that it would be a functional blade and not a fake.
Things go wrong. It's the nature of business. How a business deals with that sort of thing is their true measure, so it's good to hear that they have good customer service.
This guy is very smart and very well spoken. For such a long video I had no problem, more rather enjoyed listening to this man. I really like this guy. Very nice video.
In addition to glue, you might try "press fitting" the kashira and fuchi to the tsuka with some careful but firm taps with a nylon hammer on the flat sides. Gluing and hammering worked well for me on a Jian that had loose brass fittings.
I love that you go for the more historical accurate weapons.
Is there any company out there offering the “build your own” option for European swords that won’t send me into debt for six generations to come? 🤣
This site he suggested is legit battle ready blades they carry a variety an in specific one I'm looking for ninjato blade and dual wield with another of my ancestry the viking sword or axe not sure yet but I like the blade and axe use for defending with.
Also check his channel he has alot of great videos imo👍🗡️💯❤️
MRL / Windlass offers a mildly customizeable arming sword. It's priced under 300 USD.
www.armabohemia.cz/Novestr/swordsA.htm or www.swordsviktor.com/ Not “build your own” but you can customize everything they offer or commision a full custom build. Expect to stay below 500€ in the most cases
I think Danelli Armory does custom swords.
I have a Katana coming in a few days from them. I can’t wait.
How is it going mate?
Matt: **is disappointed by the sword's sharpness**
Also Matt: **gets surprised by how well the sword cuts paper**
Yes, this was a funny one. I am still confused how it feels blunt to the touch, but cuts paper so well. Weird.
@@scholagladiatoria
Guess it has the right edge geometry. Doesn't Phillip Martin (Akidoka) have a video of him running a totally unsharpened sword across his hands without cutting himself but then he goes and cuts some tatami rolls like its a hot knife through butter?
@@scholagladiatoria Found it:
ua-cam.com/video/JYKitUABD0I/v-deo.html
@@alexanderren1097 Tatami mats are a very different test. You can cut cleanly with good edge geometry and good technique without much sharpness. Paper is supposed to be purely a test of sharpness (Phillip Martin alludes to that in that video when he says his longsword can't cut paper).
All-in-all, looks like a pretty damn good sword Matt. Looking forward to seeing how it goes during the testing phase ;-)
Thanks Matt. Very thorough nice review of this replica weapon.
Just went and bought myself a northshire! Your review came out at just the right time as I was thinking of getting a katana. The customizing couldn't be easier! Seemed like the website was running abit sluggish, guess I'm not the only one 🤔😅
I had the same issue with the kashira on my Dynasty Forge katana. The rounded style seems to be more appealing to western aesthetics, but even with glue it does fuck-all to actually hold it in place. You really need to have flat sides to provide stability against lateral stress. Having your ito come unwrapped in the middle of use is no insignificant problem either, so it's something to keep in mind when you're buying a katana that isn't solely for display purposes.
can you elaborate? lots of people seem to be complaining about the Kashira coming loose with these custom katana's. whats the best shape? a flat instead of rounded bottom?> ty for your insights
Thank you !!! Been waiting for that 👍🏼😃
Copper alloy! * insert triggered Metatron *
I had the same thought when I heard that, but I think it's fine in this context because he's talking about a broad range of materials used instead of a particular object from history. They could have been brass, bronze, copper, any one of them.
I thought you were _Matt,_ but you can be _Pretty Frank,_ too, if you want, I won’t judge you.
"Pretty Frank" is the name Matt uses when moonlighting as a debt colector.
Shame its not his role playing name.
Pretty Frank with pansies on his tsuba.
If a Samurai, in pretty much any period, wanted a full tang and multiple pins, they could certainly have it. It would really just be a question of cost. Steel was precious, owing to the effort involved in smelting it.
Regarding the cap coming loose, you don't have to fully re-wrap the ito to fix that. Just the knot at the end. Glue, if you must.. But, a tight finish to your ito should be enough.
Just ordered mine. 1095 clay tempered, Black on black with simpel fittings. No bo-hi. Cant wait.
Please make video on drawing methods for long swords like Longswords and rapiers.
Interesting. I can't recall ever seeing Matt training or sparring with rapiers on this channel.
Part of the reason the Fuchi is loose is because they do not do a full wrap of samigawa, and the wood shrinks in width and thickness.
I’m not positive about this but I think you are intended to grip just below the fuchi.
I ordered one from Swords of Northshire, but I haven't received it yet because of the holiday backlog. It's going to be my first real sword in about 13 years so I'm excited. Mine should be more like a hondachi that's half anime inspired and half traditional, with the clay hardened 1095. I was thinking of making a video of the unboxing and review of it.
Greetings from Orange County, California. Thank you very much for your review.
Indeed that is one of the things I really like about the SoN website is not only can you pick your sword and customize it (and why not since all those pieces seem to be modular) but as you build it there a little picture of what it looks like with the features you pick. The only thing they don't do is add the tsuba to it. But even then that's pictured off to the side.
I've seen other videos were some people say that they even have an e catalog with more options that they would be happy to email you.
Still, I don't know why more manufacturers do not offer that customization option, for no additional charge just to build your sword the way you want. Being modular it really should not be any hassle. Obviously a premium for premium blade metals and some other features but the basic short should it be able to be customized a lot.
Looking forward to the cutting video. Cheers.
Honestly I’d buy from them just for the customer service lol
I have only heard good things about their customer service.
I haven't received it yet but some good reviews online, and the reviews of the customer service especially, convinced me to pull the trigger on one. I'm less concerned about problems if I know they basically bend over backwards to fix them for people.
I've purchased 3 custom blades from Swords of Northshire, all excellent quality, and the customer service is spot on. The wakizashi I had ordered arrived with a cracked saya, however, I sent them a picture of the defect and they shipped a new one out to me within a week. They've definitely earned a repeat customer from me.
Two handle pegs only make it stronger if the holes in the handle wood are placed with precision. The two pegs can and usually work against each other. The holes are slightly off to pull the handle tight against the tsuba. This is easy to get right with one pin but difficult to get two right unless you are building handle from scratch.
when I went to the swords of northshire website it was not working and instead I got an error saying 404
You've sold me on Swords of Northshire. I'm going to get a wakizashi from them.
This is something I have noticed in knives as well as swords; some edges are refined and smooth at the apex and frankly don't feel 'sharp' when lightly touched as one does to check a sharp edge. You don't feel that immediate bitey sort of snag that less refined but sharp edges possess, due to microscopic imperfections along the edge. It also slides along paper in a dragging motion and doesn't seem to want to cut, until you push the edge into the paper as opposed to doing a more typical drag. Imagine it like a VERY fine serration. If you polish and smooth the edge very finely, it removes most of that microscopic jaggedness, which removes the bitey feeling as well. These types of edges are VERY dangerous to new or inexperienced people because they don't feel sharp, sometimes they even feel blunt. Until enough pressure is applied at which point they behave exactly like a highly refined honed edge. They cut deep and quickly, and often cleanly enough that they don't produce any pain at first. You don't know something bad happened until your friend says 'Uhhhhh, you are bleeding everywhere!?' and you frantically search for the source.
Thank you for the video on the company I asked about! This gives me something to think about!!
I just ordered from them and am still waiting on it but I had wanted to change some stuff after I placed the order and the customer service really is the best I’ve ever encountered
how long did it take to get there
Was there ever a cutting/testing companion video? If so could we link it in the description? Your prolific work combined with youtube's less than stellar search functions have made it difficult to find
I had the same issue with the kashira on my sword and I got it from these guys, its actually not a tough fix, I learned how to tie ito and once I got a good enough wrap after some practice I wrapped it and laced it through the kashira after applying a stronger glue to the kashira, I haven’t had any issues with it since
A really fine katana despite the flaws, and a really fine review. Northshire looks to be a great katana maker. My own litmus test for sharpness is with paper. I notice some paper are harder to cut than others. Also, I have a katana which I have trained to the point where the ito became worn down, and fell apart. And yes I had to glue back the kashira ages ago...LOL
I think the real reason people like two pegs, is that you know for sure the tang is at least that long.
Coincidentally, I just ordered a waki from them a couple of weeks ago. It's yet to arrive, but I have to echo the comment about their great customer service. They've been incredibly responsive and helpful so far.
You messaging them over email? I have yet to receive a response on the blade I ordered.
@@ThePreparedSailor That seems normal, they've been quiet for me as well for some weeks after placing the order. But once they're done assembling it, they should reach out to you via email (check your spam folder) with some pictures to double-check whether everything is in order before shipping. In my case the colour of the grip wrap was not quite what I wanted, and they switched it out very quickly once I let them know.
@@DerTypDa thanks man, was kinda bugging about it. Ive had an issue with Kult of Athena before where they were literally leaving me on read for months and I ended up cancelling the order. Swords of Northshire seems to have an amazing rep tho
Probably a small thing to other folks but the explanation of the different cross-sections was really useful to me, thanks :)
I would be interested in ordering one of these custom swords if if was possible to get them in a gunto format. Of course being able to get it sharper would be better as well.
Yes they have Gunto listed on their site - search for them.
I have been thinking about buying one from them. thank you
Very useful, thorough review.
I've had my 1060 katana from them for a year now no edge roll and ito is still tight I'm impressed
Wow this is an awesome site thanks bro I will make sure to use your link when making my purchase soon.
One of our most traditional folded steel swords, this Japanese sword for sale has been folded 13 times to create over 8,000 layers in the metal. After removing impurities to strengthen the steel, our master-craftsmen etched the blade with a special oxidation process to create the deep dark hue that matches the sheath. Silver handle accents and an undulating dragon complete the dramatic design of this sword. Customize your weapon with different scabbard, sheath cord, and handle wrap color options at Swords of Northshire today.
I know bugger all about steel. Am I right in saying, if you want one for test cutting, 1060 is off the table? For 1095, does it need to be clay tempered or is the basic 1095 sufficient?
Quite honestly is you are going to be doing test cutting ... and you want to stay with Swords of Northshire I would get model with one of the 9260 spring steel blades. They are tough ... won't take a set ... and will have pretty decent edge retention.
Matt, can you disassemble the sword, and "clean off" the paint and chemically blue or brown the tsuba with gun bluing?
I'm sure I could, yes.
Will you ever get a wider Scholagladiatoria tsuba to showcase the wider size and how that does or doesn't effect the handling?
Very weird. Was all set to order a sword from Swords of Northshire and when I went to check out I noticed they did not accept PayPal.
When I contacted them Bryson from customer service said they don't do it because PayPal does not allow sword sales on their platform.
Really weird he would say that when I know off the top of my head three of the well known Katana suppliers that clearly list PayPal on their websites as a payment method.
I have done a Custom Unokubi Zukuri, through LYUESWORD.
My own money, T10 clay tempered. I'll have a vid on my channel soon. Lyuesword has even MORE custom options than Northshire, probably the same smiths.
My Dragon King swords are T10 and they're *chef's kiss* but pricey. I suspect you're right on the "same smiths" theory for a lot of these makers. Nearly identical selection and options and builds in my experience. I will say that because of that, places like SoN can get a lot more components than what they have listed. Almost none of the fittings I chose and saya color were listed on SoN's site, I just emailed them and asked if they could get what I wanted and they sourced them for me.
@@jaysblades oh very cool! My sword was only $209 after shipping. But it's REALLY well done. Like.... really nice. But I got some Wolf themed handle components and menuki, very similar to the LONE WOLF AND CUB katana from Paul Chen. The one that has the striped scabbard. I'm also rewrapping the ito, which mine was brown silk, but I've got grey Japanese silk for q new color. I'll have a vid after a bit of cutting.
@@Leman.Russ.6thLegion I'll be interested in seeing it.
do you have any advice on figuring out what their numbered components are/look like?
@@KonpeitoKoil scroll down qnd you'll see them. Make a list while u pick so the order is organized
Another great vid - the flower cutouts are chrysanthemums!!! jst like on the bow of Yamato - only that one is about 12 feet across and covered in gold leaf!! 😋😊😊
Matt do you know where to get any good rapiers that can actually be used for thrusting?
Just about any functional rapier maker should do the job - the lowest price options are probably from Hanwei.
@@scholagladiatoria I've been considering their rapiers, but I heard that they are on the floppy end.
Their sharps are not floppy (at least the ones I have seen) only their blunts.
@@scholagladiatoria Thanks for the advice Mr Easton.
I got two rapiers from Windlass. They're quite good for the price.
Thanks for the video, I'm having a katana and wakizashi made 😀
This is awesome! I'm definitely going to have to order a custom wakizashi from them.
Matt, I wonder how common rattan wraps were on authentic swords. Have you ever seen one? Rattan is a tropical plant, it would be hard to obtain, and it doesn't last very long. BTW I think that fuchi-gashira fittings were chased or carved in iron or alloy by chisel work.
I have a $50 katana and a $100 katana, and I think they are both decent for what I paid for them. The $100 katana is obviously much better than the $50 one, which has some minor defects, but is otherwise basically fine. The $100 katana is quite sharp and free of any major defects. My only complaint would be some rough spots on the sword that make it bit uncomfortable, and the handle wrap material is not high quality, which makes it come unraveled and slide off the bottom of the handle. All-in-all, remarkably good for the price.
use brass brush on a battery drill, plug in brass brush drill hard to control. I use a plug in.
@@FlyingAxblade_D20
You use that to sharpen/polish?
Matt, could you give an overview on how UK law applies to these types of swords? As they are not genuine antiques, but modern reproductions of antiques, are they prohibited or permitted?
The tsuba?
Two most popular flowers in Japan
Chrysanthemum (more lobes to the flower petals)
Or Sakurai (cherry blossom)
The second is my bet....
As far as the steel goes....
1095 is a good steel...but has been known to crack or chip....
If you get a chance again to purchase one again....try for 1075 a lower carbon but tougher steel...similar in aspect to 5160(spring steel)
The lower steels (1060 or 1055) they use for machetes usually.....
Your fingers should never been anywhere near the back side of the fuchi. If you have a bad swing (or indeed during keiko with shinai) you'll jam your thumbs up pretty badly and pretty quickly. A pistol-style grip should avoid that area entirely.
Ha Machi to Kissaki. The Ha, or more correctly the Ha Machi, where the cutting edge steps down to the Nakago, or Tang, not the Habaki is the indicator for Nagasa. Although overall Sugata of Nihonto of any period must consider if they shortened from original length, Suriage, or O Suriage.
When can we see you do a cutting review.
Hello Matt or Frank, that does look like a really nice blade and I'm really curious about the cutting tests.
I was wondering how tight the habaki fits the koiguchi (opening of the saya). Sometimes it can be quite loose so that the blade might slide out when pointed downwards; other times it can be quite tight so the blade is harder to draw. In the video it seemed quite loose, but I missed it in the (extensive) review
I'm looking at getting a katana from Swords of Northshire for reenactment and/or stage combat and I was wondering what type of steel you'd recommend?
The flowers are probably cherry blossoms 🌸
That's indeed the most common motif, cherries have five petals.
Thanks for making this video
Do you know how this compares to a Ryujin Custom Katana that you can get from/through SwordBuyersGuide?
I've been really closely looking at a Northshire Custom, but I've read a lot of mixed reviews about them.
I have bought and reviewed both. Both are quality choices in and amongst the custom-assembled category of which both are included in. SBG's Ryujin blades do get done a lot quicker at comparable prices. However, at SBG the customizations are rather limited as far as what you can customize. On the other hand ... Swords of Northshire allow for many more options but you might have to wait for a couple of months. Also ... if I remember correctly SBG offers swords using both T10 and 5160 ... options SON does not have. However ... you are REALLY going for it ... SON offers tamahagane (sp? ... sorry) as an option where SBG does not. So ... it comes down to what you like.
I'm not sure if a vid has been done on this, but does the type of polish have an effect on performance at all all? I'm more of a satin guy myself, but mirror requires a smoother surface to, well mirror, so would this mean if provides a smoother cut? Would there even be a difference? Or would the difference be so subtle that only a hypersensitive machine would actually detect it?
Very much enjoy the medium range reviews! I'd expect that is more relevant to a larger segment of your viewership as well. Actually, with the recent flurry of polls, a "Do you own: multiple swords, one and intend to buy more, 0 but intend to buy one, non and don't intend to buy" could be interesting!
Also, I really don't care for using the Japanese words in other languages for things which have words for them. Tsuba is sort of ok as a specific type of guard, but point, edge, blade length, hilt are all perfectly fine English and far clearer to the average English speaking viewer. And I say that as a second language English speaker.
Speaking as a reviewer of primarily Chinese-made Japanese style swords ... its an interesting confluence of cultures and a desire on the part of the reviewer to show respect to those cultures. The effort being made is commendable. Also ... one of the reasons for the effort being made is that there are several parts to the katana that really have no parallel in the English language. I mean yes ... you could refer to the fuchi and kashira as a pommel cap and handle throat ... kinda. However, the vernacular is gradually absorbing these terms so that many on the sword and knife community know what they are. With all due respect ... please give those of us in the community a chance to honor the tradition of these pieces by learning the correct terminology in the correct language.
@@mr.excalibur1455 I certainly wouldn't take away the chance of anything for anyone, nor know how to do it. I'm watching these videos to learn for fun too. But the delivery is cumbersome this way. If it's an established audience and you use the terms, sure. I'd watch a video going into the intricacies of Japanese terms to describe swords just for the sake of learning too. But if it's clearly so unclear that you have to keep using both terms, it's not helping the flow of the video. Like everything, there are good and bad ways to do something and in this case, I found it offputting enough to comment as it made the video subpar for Matt. Not saying it can't be done well though, but if there's no criticism, there's no guidance to improve.
I really like that sword of yours. I think your custom options are really nice and come really well together. I am not sure if they had the option when you got that one, but now they do offer silver habaki and seppa. Small criticism in their options, they don't offer customization options for the tsuka. Yours seems fairly straight, not particularly fond of those deisgns, wish they had more options.
You talking did make me think of something though. How well do we know our surviving samples are representative of their period, and how much is "survivor bias" so to speak? I imagine that more ceremonial blades (such as temple samples and noble status symbol ones) are likely over represented, and we have many modified blades too, but beyond that I have no meaningful notion on how well (or not) we can compensate for that.
Hello do you know if swords of north shire are better quality, then Hanbon swords
Both of the sword companies use Long Quan China.
The swords on Hanbon are cheaper 30% to 50% around.
does swords north shire just mark up the price for the same thing ?
waiting for the cutting vid where it be!? Also ty for the vid.
Might well be that the tsuba has camellias in it; not uncommon on a lot of katana furniture. Good review Matt. Just an aside; I've had repro katanas and iaitos with both cotton and silk tsuka-ito/handle wrap and have always found silk to feel more 'grippy' (technical Japanese term), especially with sweaty hands during training.
Most wrap with tape but some Dip crap handles in lacquer or something before it falls apart.
if it were through hardened, 1060 is a bit tougher and easier to heat treat from my experience but not easier by a whole lot
however the differential heat treatment makes the 1095 a bit more appropriate because not a whole lot if swords from history were thrown hardened, but Peter Johnson has determined that traditional tamahagane swords have an edge carbon content making it similar to 1075
The last time I bought from thier the blade didn’t make it through customs do you know any uk katana shops
I'm guessing the flowers are cherry blossoms (Sakura) - the national flower of Japan. They look about right.
Also, could you do a video about Katana/Dachi losing their Kisaki (tip)? Do you know of any examples? Also do Katana without their tips have anything to do with Ninjato? The shape of that sword is not particularly pointed. I can imagine Raffaello will be happy to do this too, but he can always reply to your video.
I'm curious, if when dealing with historical blades, if profile taper in production can be always identified in contrast to wear and resharpening?
I guess the flowers that are represented on the guard are chrysanthemums. Since the Japanese emperors throne was associated with the plant
The flower shape on your tsuba is a sakura flower.
As someone who began forging my own swords in order to be truer to actual antiques, I can say that the shape of this sword looks really good, way way better than so many Chinese repros.
Do you have your own forge or something?
@@hakobo2744 Yes, a very simple one in my garden. Thats one of the advantages of living in South Africa- housing prices are such that its possible to own a property with a relatively large garden, hence i could build a forge.
For anyone else who wants to build their own forge or just be knowledgeable, i highly recommend reading The Art of the Japanese Sword; The craft of swordmaking and its appreciation
@@garethbarry3825 wow that’s awesome man, is it on audible, who’s it by?
Hey Matt, what antique katana would you buy? Masamune, Muramasa... and from what period?
get a muramasa if you want your home to be cursed.
When's the cutting video?? Impatiently waiting lol
Why do you never tell us what Lucy thinks of the blade?
“Lol, get that weeb shit out of here.” is my guess.
How would T10 compare to 1095 in terms of edge retention and toughness? Would a 1095 snap first?
How long did it take to arrive and how long does it take to respond if you emailed them?
the hamon being harder to see makes it have some magical ghost glow.
please do cut review so we know how good really is, because a cheap katana that can stay together ell would raise a lot on interest rather than exploding into pieces
Tbh I ordered my katana from there and it still hasn’t came and I ordered it in may 19 is it normal for it to take long?
I have NEVER received a sword without scuff marks. This include chinese katana, valiant armoury, darksword, hanwei, windlass, etc......is that not normal?
i bought a sword from there the other day and the website has seemed to go down and haven't gotten any replies from them.
Did they reply? I want to buy one myself.
@@anonymousanonymous3464 yes, they have a bad power outage from snowstorm. its up and running again
It would be really cool if you reviewed some Lyuesword Japanese swords since for the price they really rival Swords of Northshire in a lot of ways. But, Swords of Northshire I've heard is a pretty good company.
What if I told you that SoN and Lyuesword...were getting most of their swords from Ryansword? In fact, Lyuesword and Ryansword are run by the same person.
I don't think that a visible grain pattern was much of a concern for Japanese swordsmiths until fairly late in history. If a 15th-16th century swordsmith had been offered up a ton of high quality modern 1060-1080 type steel in exchange for every blade he had in the shop, once he'd forged a piece he would've jumped at the deal and thrown in his oldest daughter to seal the deal.
Can you remove the kashira or pommel to end them rightly?
that sharp is razor or sharp with nikku?? thanks
I think I will buy one.