I think Denoise softwares nowadays really save the smaller sensor cameras. Full frame cameras do deliver higher image quality but those lenses are usually heavier and more expensive.
I use the topaz suite on my OMD system pictures. I've just had a need to process some old Pentax K-3/7 images and I'm amazed at the results. They were all way worse in terms of noise and softness but have printed brilliantly. Thanks for the tips.
NIce video! Here's a tip for older or more basic Olympus cameras without the Hi-Res shot: use the Scene Mode called "Hand-Held Starlight." This feature is Olympus' secret weapon: it takes 8 images, even handheld, and stacks them accurately in camera. I've found it's great for noise reduction.
If I may add, always turn off sharpening while shooting at higher sensitivities. Software in camera or in Lightroom will recognize noise as objects that need sharpening making it much more visible. It is especially important with Olympus cameras that tend to use extensive sharpening.
I use an older 16mp m43 camera, and noise is fine up to 3200 ISO. Expose to the right and remove colour noise in post, as you said Peter. Image stabilisation allows low shutter speeds for static subjects. I've even shot 12800 for black and white subjects like birds, where movement means keeping shutter speeds high. It requires more careful post-processing, but as long as the final print isn't too big the results are wonderfully atmospheric.
You should! Both software are really greta for noise reduction. The reason DxO PureRaw is better is that it has lens modules that also corrects lens distortions etc.
Does in camera noise reduction get saved onto RAW files? My limited understanding is that RAWs record light directly from the sensor, without processing.
This varies from brand to brand but in general the settings you have as a user don’t affect the RAW files but some manufacturers have applied some noise reduction in the background to RAW files.
Thanks Peter... 🙏🏻🙏🏻 One question... , What do you think about overexposing a bit in the shot...?? , and then if it is necessary to lower the exposure a bit in post-production ... 🤔🤔 "SALUDOS... 👋🏻🙋🏻♂️😃 "
One thing to add though; I mainly use higher shutter speed in low light situations when photographing people (can't rely on tracking or IS in those cases). So that's when I need most ISO and most colour NR, though I found that too much colour noise filtering will blend the colour of faces out to the surroundings a bit. So this is a risk to keep into consideration.
I never liked noise or grain. That’s why I used Kodachrome 25 in analog times. With HDR I have sometimes experienced serious noise magnification. Probably that depends on the subject and the software. Now I preprocess them in DxO Photolab and don’t have to worry.
Maybe you could make a video explaining the third multiple shot image process, using the third shot as an overlay. I'm not really sure how to do that, so I think a video of going through the process would it be a good teaching video.
Hi Petter, nice nice videos. I have a simple question do you recommend using 3rd party batteries on a OMD EM5 M II and what brand. Thanks in advance for your advice.
I have not tested any 3rd party batteries. I recommend using only original batteries. They are a bit more expensive, but then the is no risk. Also using 3rd party batteries might affect the warranty.
Hi Peter, once again I am having trouble setting up the wifi in my em5 Mark iii. The last update initially cleared the problem that everyone was having but now my phone is saying there is no "om systems camera available", and that I need to check the wifi settings. I did all I could and even reset the wifi settings but still no luck. Any help would be beneficial. Thanks, Greyson.
I know this sounds crazy, but if a camera like the Olympus has the high-resolution option, why don't photographers use it (and HDR) for every image? Is it too time consuming and complex to use on a regular basis?
Thanks Peter! I didn't mention that in-camera HDR reduces noise in the shadows, may be due to fast merging algorithm. But I often shot with exposure bracketing and merge HDR in Lr. In this case noise visibly dissappear. Also in-camera HDR does not expand dynamic range - the result is the same 12-bit RAW. In-camera HDR compresses image into 12-bit dynamic range - this is compression not exension. But HDR merge in Lr creates 16-bit DNG RAW and really extends dynamic range.
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The noise issues have disappeared when I started using Denoise AI. It reduces noise from 2 to 6 stops. Absolutely brilliant. I also use RAW and ETTR.
Noise reduction softwares are amazing.
I think Denoise softwares nowadays really save the smaller sensor cameras. Full frame cameras do deliver higher image quality but those lenses are usually heavier and more expensive.
OM wow camera will be first full denoise camera? (:
Informative as always. Keep it going
Thank you very much!
I use the topaz suite on my OMD system pictures. I've just had a need to process some old Pentax K-3/7 images and I'm amazed at the results. They were all way worse in terms of noise and softness but have printed brilliantly. Thanks for the tips.
Glad it helped you. How big the prints are?
Waiters must love Peter.
He always gives extra tips!!! 😂
Hilarious!!!!
:D, a good one.
NIce video! Here's a tip for older or more basic Olympus cameras without the Hi-Res shot: use the Scene Mode called "Hand-Held Starlight." This feature is Olympus' secret weapon: it takes 8 images, even handheld, and stacks them accurately in camera. I've found it's great for noise reduction.
Thank you and and big thank for the tip. I need to look into that!
Thanks for the tip! Giving it a try!
If I may add, always turn off sharpening while shooting at higher sensitivities. Software in camera or in Lightroom will recognize noise as objects that need sharpening making it much more visible. It is especially important with Olympus cameras that tend to use extensive sharpening.
Thanks for the tip.
Another awesome video - thanks for posting! :D
Glad you enjoyed it!
Integration of Topaz Denoise AI in my workflow of my wildlife pictures was a game changer!
I use an older 16mp m43 camera, and noise is fine up to 3200 ISO. Expose to the right and remove colour noise in post, as you said Peter. Image stabilisation allows low shutter speeds for static subjects. I've even shot 12800 for black and white subjects like birds, where movement means keeping shutter speeds high. It requires more careful post-processing, but as long as the final print isn't too big the results are wonderfully atmospheric.
ISO12800 is a lot. How big were the prints?
Shooting to the right and dxo is game changer
It is.
Another fantastic video! I've never used Topaz and DxO before but I'm definitely gonna try these out!
You should! Both software are really greta for noise reduction. The reason DxO PureRaw is better is that it has lens modules that also corrects lens distortions etc.
@@ForsgardPeter That's fantastic! Thank you for that!
thanks for the tips
Great advice!
Thanks.
Does in camera noise reduction get saved onto RAW files? My limited understanding is that RAWs record light directly from the sensor, without processing.
There is always processing in all digital cameras... ☝🏻🙌🏻 (to a lesser or greater degree...)
This varies from brand to brand but in general the settings you have as a user don’t affect the RAW files but some manufacturers have applied some noise reduction in the background to RAW files.
Thanks Peter... 🙏🏻🙏🏻
One question... , What do you think about overexposing a bit in the shot...?? , and then if it is necessary to lower the exposure a bit in post-production ... 🤔🤔
"SALUDOS... 👋🏻🙋🏻♂️😃 "
usually a bit brighter image has less visible noise. Lowering the exposure in post will hide it even more. Do not clip the highlights.
@@ForsgardPeter Thanks... 🙏🏻
One thing to add though; I mainly use higher shutter speed in low light situations when photographing people (can't rely on tracking or IS in those cases). So that's when I need most ISO and most colour NR, though I found that too much colour noise filtering will blend the colour of faces out to the surroundings a bit. So this is a risk to keep into consideration.
Thanks for the tip!
I never liked noise or grain. That’s why I used Kodachrome 25 in analog times. With HDR I have sometimes experienced serious noise magnification. Probably that depends on the subject and the software. Now I preprocess them in DxO Photolab and don’t have to worry.
Maybe you could make a video explaining the third multiple shot image process,
using the third shot as an overlay. I'm not really sure how to do that, so I think a video of going through the process would it be a good teaching video.
Here is one video about the topic that I made a few years ago: ua-cam.com/video/-xPqHLSgMsw/v-deo.html I hope it helps.
Hi Petter, nice nice videos. I have a simple question do you recommend using 3rd party batteries on a OMD EM5 M II and what brand. Thanks in advance for your advice.
I have not tested any 3rd party batteries. I recommend using only original batteries. They are a bit more expensive, but then the is no risk. Also using 3rd party batteries might affect the warranty.
@@ForsgardPeter Thank you! Have a nice day. Mexico.
Hi Peter, once again I am having trouble setting up the wifi in my em5 Mark iii. The last update initially cleared the problem that everyone was having but now my phone is saying there is no "om systems camera available", and that I need to check the wifi settings. I did all I could and even reset the wifi settings but still no luck. Any help would be beneficial.
Thanks, Greyson.
Turn on the wifi from camera and go to the settings in your phone and look if there is the camera's wifi as an option.
I know this sounds crazy, but if a camera like the Olympus has the high-resolution option, why don't photographers use it (and HDR) for every image? Is it too time consuming and complex to use on a regular basis?
It's not often needed.
Normally not necessary ... 👍🏻🙌🏻
Only good for static shots,movement will be blurry ie: grass,leaves etc moving in the wind,people moving etc.
We not always need a lot of pixels. Like Gary S. said it is not very good for moving subjects.
Thanks Peter! I didn't mention that in-camera HDR reduces noise in the shadows, may be due to fast merging algorithm. But I often shot with exposure bracketing and merge HDR in Lr. In this case noise visibly dissappear. Also in-camera HDR does not expand dynamic range - the result is the same 12-bit RAW. In-camera HDR compresses image into 12-bit dynamic range - this is compression not exension. But HDR merge in Lr creates 16-bit DNG RAW and really extends dynamic range.
Thanks for clarifying my explanation in the video. You are right.
XZ-2, not ZX-2
You are right, my mistake.