@@HansWeberHimself🔴 Paul's first letter to the Corinthians 👇🏼 { Do you not know that the wicked will not inherit the kingdom of God? Do not be deceived: Neither the sexually immoral nor idolaters nor adulterers nor male prostitutes nor homosexual offenders nor thieves nor the greedy nor drunkards nor slanderers nor swindlers will inherit the kingdom of God } (1 Corinthians 6:9-10). 🔴 God wants to lighten for you 👇🏼 ⚠️ God has said in the Quran: 🔵 { Say, "O My servants who have transgressed against themselves [by sinning], do not despair of the mercy of Allah. Indeed, Allah forgives all sins. Indeed, it is He who is the Forgiving, the Merciful." ( 39:53 )} 📖 Quran 📖
@@saveitforparts The lo-tech approach I would try, is simply phased delay lines (precisely measured coax), going to one SDR. Having multiple antennae phased together, would also improve interference rejection, as signals coming at the array at an angle, will not benefit from 'signal summing'. Getting the dishes perfectly aimed (parallel), may be a challenge, but I've developed a very simple technique. Wet the dish(s)*, and get the sun to focus on the LNB (or with other substitute target). This will not only identify the precise location of the focal point, you will be able to observe any deformation in the parabola (no point of focus). For the cables, there are several resources on making phasing harnesses, with correct impedances. * I found, washing the dish, allows a film of water to act as a weak mirror, allowing enough sunlight to determine the quality of the dish's shape, precise location of the focal point, and determine the actual 'aim' of the dish, without too much heat at the focal point. Another technique, is to use diluted water based craft glue (or detergent), to temporarily hold, a few strips of aluminium foil to the dish. www.w9xt.com/page_antennas_coax_matching_network.html www.qsl.net/dk7zb/Stacking/coax.htm www.hamuniverse.com/w4bwsmatching.html Again, another interesting and entertaining presentation, culminating in an unexpected success!
You remind me of a friend who was installing satellite dishes in the Solomon Islands 20 years ago - point the dish in the general direction of the geostationary bird, then move the dish around until the spectrum analyser peaked!
I think that's actually standard installation procedure! You can roughly aim based on compass and elevation angle, but sometimes nudging it around gets a stronger signal than relying just on the directions.
@@saveitforparts There are also peak meters that are a tuned circuit for the frequencies that the relevant satellite is transmitting at. Get the dish pointed in about the right direction, hook up the peak meter to the lnb, fine tune the aim to peak the signal, lock it into place, swap in the coax for the receiver in place of the aiming meter, and call up Dish or DirecTV(cough AT&T) and have your receiver activated then wait to learn if you are actually pointed at the right cluster of satellites.
Just to show my kids how to get into trouble, we took an old sat dish like that one and coated it with foil tape. Then cooked a few hotdogs! 😀 I then carelessly put it away in a "safe place" only to come back in a couple of hours to find it had burned the leg off a wood patio chair!!!! 🤣
"This is just a portable satellite dish like you might take camping to hack some free tv or watch some football." That vibe is why I subscribed to this channel.
When in doubt, use more duct tape. The first law of DIY! Thanks for again a great video. I love all your experiments. A simple trick to straighten out copper wire is to put one end in a vice and the other end into a handheld drill. Then pull the trigger on slow speed while keeping tension. Works all the time.
Don't forget that the gain of a dish antenna is proportional not just to its geometric size, but also wavelength. NOAA HRPT birds use frequencies whose wavelength is 8 times larger (ish) compared to the Ku-band SATTV sats. So, to produce similar gain, you need a much larger dish.
Just found your channel and find it fascinating to watch your little projects :) Thanks for sharing and maybe I try it one day if I find time between my other 30 trillion hobies 😅 Now a little hack for you from an electrician - me: You get pretty neat, absolute straight and nearly bumpyless copper wire, up to about 4mm² (sorry, I'm german and have no idea what AVG or whatever you use in america this is 😂). Just fix one end very solid somewhere. The vice on a heavy workbench or something is well suited. Then take the other end with a tang and pull! The thicker the wire the more force - up to your weight - you will need. But if you pull slow and steady it will more or less suddenly get really straight 😉 Then you can wind very nice looking coils or have perfect parallel copper cable.👐
I appreciate the how-to nature of these videos because I keep putting off actually doing something more with my SDRs than fiddling with stuff I can pick up with a dipole (Hospital paging signals are my current fascination). And one of these days I'll catch a video that finally gets me off my butt to find/buy the parts to make a fancier antenna or dish setup. And I won't have to look up tutorials, I'll just have to rewatch the video!
Great stuff! It's important to also important to note the difference between older round(ish) single-LNB DirecTV/Dish network dishes and the later oval dual- (triple-?) LNB dishes. I've had better luck rigging SDR dongles to the older round dishes. Don't let the YT antenna snobs dissuade you from experimenting, there's nothing to lose but time and you always learn more from failure than success!
A tip for anyone wanting to straighten out copper wire: put a wooden dowel or broomstick in the vice, pass the wire behind it and hold each end, then pull it tight and pull it back and forth in a sawing motion (like you'd do with one of those roll up wire camping saws). If the copper's really thick or stubborn, you can heat it to red hot with a blowtorch and let it cool down again before straightening it, copper "work hardens", so the more it's bent the harder it gets - the heating & cooling reverses this softens it up again.
To straighten copper wire; affix one end to a bench or vise and hold the other end taut with vise grips or pliers and use a hammer to tap the pliers in the pulling direction. It will even change sound when it's straight
This was very helpful. As you know I just started playing with this stuff. I know the LNB on my too small dish is circularly polarized, I had know idea they were handed as well. I imagine that detail alone would keep me from being successful. Lol 👍
Quick hack: To straighten copper wire, put one end in the vice and the other end in the chuck of a drill. Pull on the wire with the drill and twist it shortly
Very nice image from a bunch of scrap parts! I'm still having issues with getting NOAA VHF to work well. I'm playing with a V di-pole (old tv rabbit ears) and honestly I get a better results using my bearcat scanner with a rubber duck and recording the audio on my phone. It's fun trying tho.
I need to send you a "care" package of bits of type-F "plumbing" that's useful in projects like this. They're larger and more robust for things like supporting helices, and despite their 75ohm impedance, can be used in receiver systems without much of an issue. Type-F to SMA are readily available. I got sold on type-F for certain things years and years ago. Partially because type-F plumbing bits were readily available at the local Home Depot, etc. I once cobbled together the feed-probe for a hydrogen-line circular waveguide feed using a type-F female-to-female connector, with a paperclip as the probe--jammed into the socket, and liberally treated with hot melt glue. It lasted literally for years!
I have a bunch of F-connector "stuff" and cable around, I just tend to use SMA since they've gotten more common. N connectors were popular for a minute in the 2000s for Wifi but I hardly see those anymore, and of course I still have a pile of UHF connectors around... I'm still not good at remembering the whole impedance thing either, I just grab whatever I need from the drawer-of-adapters and daisy chain them until it works!
@@saveitforparts Type N was developed for high-frequency, higher-power use. A side effect of that is that they're mechanically robust, and some types are intended for outdoor use. Not so much with SMA :) Type N has been around since the 1940s, and still sees lots of use in commercial equipment today.
If you have a bench mounted vice, you can straighten copper by just stretching it a tiny bit. Makes it far easier to work with if it's already been in a coil. Not ideal with enamel + HV, but for antenna elements, makes things heaps easier.
Part of me is wondering if a better setup would be to use some welding rod rolled into the major axcis of the helical antenna, and set at the right spacing using 2 or 3 plastic beams with notches spaced correctly, and one of the beams providing the mount to the horn arm of the dish. The advantage being that one could simply use some coreplas for those beams, cut a common notch for the ground plane, then offset that related to the coil spacing for each of the other beams, and then the turned helix rides in each of the notches. Use the Zip Ties to hold everything in place, then zip tie the beam that's going to be the bottom to position it properly on the dish arm. The welding rod I'm thinking of is 3 mm brass (or looks like it's brass, might be drawn copper, it's not copper plated, as I've cut it for various purposes and it's the same material through. I think it's for arc welding but I've used it for spindles for various yarn spinning systems, and am looking to use some for a LoRa collinear dipole antenna. I'm on try 2 of 3D printing the core of a 70cm (433 mHz) quadrifilar antenna from the @EngineerMeThis channel's video at ua-cam.com/video/OJy-XjGYlGw/v-deo.htmlsi=9oCxDeGGrOGJp9IR . My first time through ended up failing just before the second port of the choke balun coil, so within about 20 min of the print completing. It detached from my print bed. Trying again, if this fails, then the print bed gets a bit of washing and we'll try a third time. If that fails I may need to add more 'support' in the form of a plate and riser with filament attachments to the core. Turning the print from a right hand turn to a left hand turn is simply a mirror action in the slicer. I hadn't seen the SMA connectors you're using on this build, but I suspect that one of those would be a good match for this antenna. I also don't know how well this would, or would not, be scaled for l-band frequencies. I realize it's not a frequency match at this time, but I'm not yet set up to design my own cores. :-) ('Yet' being the operative word there.)
I find they are useful for boosting 2.5 and 5ghz wifi signals. For a while I had one in my chair with the antenna rigged up in the center and it was really fast actually.
Like my granddad always said: "If it can't be fixed with duct tape, zip ties, PVC pipe (ABS), hot melt glue, copper wire, a dremel tool, and maybe a little JB Weld.... it can't BE fixed." Or something like that...
Change the continuous duct-tape wrap to a few support tabs here and there. Duct tape isn't terribly RF transparent, because it's metallized to a certain extent. The best helical feeds have almost no support scaffold in the middle -- because said scaffold will change the dielectric constant inside the helix. In your case, that's not likely the biggest issue, but something to keep in mind. I'd absolutely change the duct-tape "wrap" though... You know eventually, you'll morph into a biological dish mount, with the TLEs in your head, and the ability to do coordinate conversions without computer assistance :)
Ha, I've already started to remember the rough times for each NOAA satellite in my area. I'm still a terrible antenna mount though, I'm bad at standing still that long!
Great vid!! I would of thought that the focal point would've been straight up from the center of the parabola of the dish, to capture as much of the weak signal as possible.
I answered my own question "Gabe would get a screwdriver out and take everything apart" Got down to the motor with no linkage and it would barely turn, so I think I figured it out. Admittedly, I used the brushcutter blade to hack through some trees at various time, so not entirely surprised. Wish the brushless version was out when I bought the system. Looking forward to your whacker review!
I'd like to try printing that .stl on my Ender 3 - not the fancy new ones, but a carefully modified OG. I actually have 2 printers and the Ender 3 (currently with an MKS Gen L board using A4988 steppers) is about to get a 32 bit upgrade with 2130 SPI steppers. After that, Marlin 2.0.
Yep, I have a bunch, but people keep asking if they can use these little ones. Apparently Europe never used C-Band, so all they have is small ones like this.
In the event of nuclear holocaust I want to live near Gabe as I know he will have something in his garage that will save us.. Joking aside, this was a brilliant video, I really enjoyed it and loved the humour, showing improvements with adjustments the overall end result - top work !!
The result is quite impressive, considering it's such a small satellite dish and operated by hand. The advantage of this satellite dish is that it's easily transportable, making it very suitable for mobile use. Have you already experimented with Amazon Sidewalk in the 900 MHz band? It's included in every Alexa Echo and is widespread in America. The device is equipped with an LLCC62 chip, which is responsible for LoRa.
@@saveitforparts Alright, then I haven't missed anything yet. I assume they have also applied for a developer access to be able to develop their own applications. TI has released the TI LaunchPad CC1352, which is a development board for Sidewalk applications. It works very well with the Echo 4. Maybe they'll find some time eventually.
Very Nice! Would the combination of different metals in the antenna -- aluminum to nickle/lead solder to copper generate a current that would produce noise?
13:58 there is a setting in Android to lock screen rotation, if you drag down the setting menu from the top you can disable auto Rotate and lock the phone to portrait. this might help. update, im assuming you are using an Android phone, there maybe a similar option on Apple devices.
I have seen others in my part of the world use that circular feed in a can feed horn i am not sure but i would think the can around it would bounce the rf missed by the feed to it ? Must be the reason for a normal cantenna....BTW great video don't worry repeating stuff all helpful ! love the satellite dish videos
I've used cantennas for WiFi and GOES satellites, which are linear polarization. I haven't tried it yet for circular polarization, that might be interesting to try.
@@saveitforparts Yes i have seen it used inside these home made feeds such as yours i would be interested in the difference in or out for the feed horn can ,i am very interested trying your experiment's in my part of the world almost ready to start trying ..as you have done on the tracking part and the geo side of it .I will mention an idea i have come up with in a new post here so others might like to try as well .
Just on quick question to ponder - is the ABS colored black with graphite? Could that be affecting the results that you are seeing? Maybe white ABS pipe may be better? Just a thought.
Watching your manual tracking by hand here and in another video and seeing you made the automatic AZ EL mount tracking using Arduino as the brains to control the motor board watching other peoples go's at this it came to me i think there should be a in between system cutting out the computer control altogether . I noticed the Arduino system tracking you have to really be there any way to make sure its working safely and such ....So the idea coming together now as i am building is the motor control is as in your system either the relay board or transistor version controlled both by optocouplers (led that switch an optotransistor on) so same as your system unchanged , now i have made my idea a step above hand control and simple on off switching circuit for motor control i can either hook up an Arduino idea as yours later on if i feel like it or just connect to the motor board opto couplers up to my idea this board (555 dumb Tracking board MK1 ) is controlled by 2 555 timers for AZ EL timing this is then fed to 2 4017s the first and the last outputs fed to 2 555s hooked up as bistable's these are then fed to those motor board opto couplers the bistables will stay on for the time i have set on the Astable 555s ...i want to set the system up so the elevation gos for about 15 mIn once speed is adjusted no need to worry till end of tracking same gos for the the AZ can be set by what is expected in its sky position by seeing the pass on your satellite tracking program ..you can be the brains and seeing the signal levels on sdr sharp or what ever you can do some tweaking to speed on elevation i think the AZ control which i feel would not have to be adjusted once set but can be timed to move if need be .....I have built the board timing is great ...i really hate computers and this is a simple way to automate the motor control without Hal from 2001 space odyssey taking control ....; 0 ) you are still in control and can be built from junk box parts ( don't buy new build from junk ! ) Hard explaining every thing with out plans but if you know what the bits do its very simple to work it out . SO 2 555 ics hooked up as simple astable timers fed to 2 4017 decade counters the first and last of its outputs fed to the set reset of the 2 bistable 555 ics ..i have mounted leds so you can see all the switching going on . more than one way to do all this you could use a 4060 and have the first 2 parts of the idea in same ic as in the astables and decade counters all in the same ic just what you have handy for the idea .
That's an interesting idea, although I don't know enough about raw electronics to do it myself! You could certainly have the motors on timers if you knew the approximate relative speed of the satellite. Old telescopes had something like that, a motor that just compensated for the earth's rotation to keep a star in view. It took a bit of setup and prep to line everything up though.
@@saveitforparts Yes i expect there would be some trial and error in all this once the tracking is ready to be tested but all in all a way to test with out the need of a mini computer ...Yes pretty much the idea the circuit is 2 timers but i feel the AZ might just have to be set up for the pass and left as its more EL more important to track .I noticed these days electronics is a bit different to my time most buy boards already made and connect together where as when i started i built from scratch simple circuits and then connected them to more complex things . You could do it easy in time ,seeing your ablity at writing code is amazing to me as thats a lot harder than soldering parts together i can see you have it in you to do more in electronics just you have not looked into it more on the parts only construction side buts its different times and every one has different interests ; 0 )
Not related to the video, but the mainstreaming of Satelite tech has always made me laugh when you consider the moment anyone tries to mainstream it, new tech comes in and eats their lunch. Satellite TV came in, and then cable right after it. Satellite phones started to hit the market, then cell phones right after. Even Satellite Radio came in right before podcasts and the I-Pod. Its like you can tell when a new Paradigm is about to hit in tech as soon as Satellites get involved.
Curious that you connected the filter right to the SMA. Is there a reason why you did not run a jumper down to connect the filter at a secure location? In such a way as to relieve tension on the antenna connection.
@@saveitforparts I thought that might have been the reason you did it, just wanted to verify that there was not something I was missing. Thank you, and like to see your doing an awesome job and I enjoy your content Brent very much.
@@nicholas4839 That might not work well with a 12"x12"x12" (300mm^3) build volume. You could slice it in parts and figure out how to pin it all together, but all those joints are going to cause problems with rigidity.
something I would like to see if you can do, is recreate the Karl G. Jansky Very Large Array at say 1/100th scale? 1/1000th? I dunno, but using the same frequency range (if possible) spread out over the same number of antennas like the one you have here (if possible) over the same scaled distance in surface area (if possible) You'd be the greatest citizen scientist ever! And if you put out the CALL to all of us, I'm sure there are a lot of us that have these dishes either laying around, or KNOW someone with a dish or two.
Not trying to be a downer but do you have a plans for all this stuff you got when you pass hopefully it can go to someone can enjoy the fun you do every day with is id hate to see all that equipment get throw out and also hope you live a very long life my friend. We are NERDS DEEP DOWN thanks. A+ content love it
Should be useful for geostationary satellites like GOES if you're in the US, or there are some other options around the world. I'm actually working on something like that right now for a future video!
If you're not transmitting anything, you don't need a license to listen to radio signals or satellites. If it's not encrypted, it's free and open to anyone who can hear it (at least in the US, if you live in some dictatorship then maybe it's different).
I took apart an old RV dish and have aimed it at galaxy 19 to try to get free tv. Nothing is working, I built my own L band LMB and it still isn’t working. I would like to know if you could help me with what I can do to get free TV from Galaxy 19. Edit: I got it to work.(your videos are what helped me) Thank you!😃😃😃
~12ghz is what comes in from TV satellites (Ku band), then the LNB converts that down by subtracting its Local Oscillator (LO) frequency, usually something like 10.7ghz. So an RTL-SDR can see the lower end of the Ku band shifted into L-band by the LNB. When I use the little Tailgater dishes I'm sometimes doing it a different way, by just tapping into the onboard receiver that can see more of that frequency range.
The filter helps, plus it has an amplifier built in. You can get the signal with just an antenna and SDR, but it's usually not as good especially with an already small antenna.
5:28 Don't doubt yourself, 3D printers are a lot more common than you think. And they are so cheap Nowadays, perhaps it's time for you to upgrade. I was excited until you gave up so quickly.
This is actually about the 10th or 12th time I've tried to print one of those damn helixes. I finally got one to work (in an upcoming video) by just copying and pasting the 3D model onto itself to double up the cross supports :-P
One man's trash is a another man's UA-cam channel. Here's to approaching 200k subs!
I second.
@@HansWeberHimself🔴 Paul's first letter to the Corinthians 👇🏼
{ Do you not know that the wicked will not inherit the kingdom of God?
Do not be deceived: Neither the sexually immoral nor idolaters nor adulterers nor male prostitutes nor homosexual offenders nor thieves nor the greedy nor drunkards nor slanderers nor swindlers will inherit the kingdom of God }
(1 Corinthians 6:9-10).
🔴 God wants to lighten for you 👇🏼
⚠️ God has said in the Quran:
🔵 { Say, "O My servants who have transgressed against themselves [by sinning], do not despair of the mercy of Allah. Indeed, Allah forgives all sins. Indeed, it is He who is the Forgiving, the Merciful." ( 39:53 )}
📖 Quran 📖
Definitely trash.
Next project: the very small array... a homemade replica of the very large array using TV dishes! 😀
Thanks for this video - it was really interesting.
I've tried doing a Very Small Array, but couldn't get the signals synced up. I need one of those fancy Kraken SDRs with multiple inputs!
@@saveitforparts That very small array was the very first video of your channel that I watched!!
@@saveitforparts
The lo-tech approach I would try, is simply phased delay lines (precisely measured coax), going to one SDR. Having multiple antennae phased together, would also improve interference rejection, as signals coming at the array at an angle, will not benefit from 'signal summing'.
Getting the dishes perfectly aimed (parallel), may be a challenge, but I've developed a very simple technique. Wet the dish(s)*, and get the sun to focus on the LNB (or with other substitute target). This will not only identify the precise location of the focal point, you will be able to observe any deformation in the parabola (no point of focus). For the cables, there are several resources on making phasing harnesses, with correct impedances.
* I found, washing the dish, allows a film of water to act as a weak mirror, allowing enough sunlight to determine the quality of the dish's shape, precise location of the focal point, and determine the actual 'aim' of the dish, without too much heat at the focal point. Another technique, is to use diluted water based craft glue (or detergent), to temporarily hold, a few strips of aluminium foil to the dish.
www.w9xt.com/page_antennas_coax_matching_network.html
www.qsl.net/dk7zb/Stacking/coax.htm
www.hamuniverse.com/w4bwsmatching.html
Again, another interesting and entertaining presentation, culminating in an unexpected success!
This continues to be one of the most fun channels on UA-cam.
The best tutorial ever see un cut normal no fancy stuff just junk and a little bit of of talent
You remind me of a friend who was installing satellite dishes in the Solomon Islands 20 years ago - point the dish in the general direction of the geostationary bird, then move the dish around until the spectrum analyser peaked!
I think that's actually standard installation procedure! You can roughly aim based on compass and elevation angle, but sometimes nudging it around gets a stronger signal than relying just on the directions.
@@saveitforparts There are also peak meters that are a tuned circuit for the frequencies that the relevant satellite is transmitting at. Get the dish pointed in about the right direction, hook up the peak meter to the lnb, fine tune the aim to peak the signal, lock it into place, swap in the coax for the receiver in place of the aiming meter, and call up Dish or DirecTV(cough AT&T) and have your receiver activated then wait to learn if you are actually pointed at the right cluster of satellites.
Just to show my kids how to get into trouble, we took an old sat dish like that one and coated it with foil tape. Then cooked a few hotdogs! 😀 I then carelessly put it away in a "safe place" only to come back in a couple of hours to find it had burned the leg off a wood patio chair!!!! 🤣
In remote places like Africa, people boil water and cook with solar ovens, which are basically just reflective dishes.
"This is just a portable satellite dish like you might take camping to hack some free tv or watch some football."
That vibe is why I subscribed to this channel.
You're not smart enough to figure out you're being duped.
@@garnet4846 ok, I'll bite. Why come we is being d00ped?
@@braedan51 it's going to be difficult to explain it to somebody who types a reply like that.
@@braedan51hahaha don't bother, it's one of those types
@@FaustoTheBoozehound "those types" = can see thru bs.
When in doubt, use more duct tape. The first law of DIY! Thanks for again a great video. I love all your experiments. A simple trick to straighten out copper wire is to put one end in a vice and the other end into a handheld drill. Then pull the trigger on slow speed while keeping tension. Works all the time.
Red Green would be proud of your handyman skills!
That small dish actually worked out better than I would have thought. Consider me pleasantly surprised...
Don't forget that the gain of a dish antenna is proportional not just to its geometric size, but also wavelength. NOAA HRPT birds use frequencies whose wavelength is 8 times larger (ish) compared to the Ku-band SATTV sats. So, to produce similar gain, you need a much larger dish.
Thanks tips.
Just found your channel and find it fascinating to watch your little projects :) Thanks for sharing and maybe I try it one day if I find time between my other 30 trillion hobies 😅
Now a little hack for you from an electrician - me: You get pretty neat, absolute straight and nearly bumpyless copper wire, up to about 4mm² (sorry, I'm german and have no idea what AVG or whatever you use in america this is 😂). Just fix one end very solid somewhere. The vice on a heavy workbench or something is well suited. Then take the other end with a tang and pull! The thicker the wire the more force - up to your weight - you will need. But if you pull slow and steady it will more or less suddenly get really straight 😉 Then you can wind very nice looking coils or have perfect parallel copper cable.👐
I appreciate the how-to nature of these videos because I keep putting off actually doing something more with my SDRs than fiddling with stuff I can pick up with a dipole (Hospital paging signals are my current fascination). And one of these days I'll catch a video that finally gets me off my butt to find/buy the parts to make a fancier antenna or dish setup. And I won't have to look up tutorials, I'll just have to rewatch the video!
You probably already know this, but you can use the lower arm as a sight. You can look down the center like a telescope, that will line you right up.
Great stuff! It's important to also important to note the difference between older round(ish) single-LNB DirecTV/Dish network dishes and the later oval dual- (triple-?) LNB dishes. I've had better luck rigging SDR dongles to the older round dishes. Don't let the YT antenna snobs dissuade you from experimenting, there's nothing to lose but time and you always learn more from failure than success!
Brilliant vid 👏 I'm always blown away how you can cobble together old stuff and get some pretty good output ✅️ you're awesome 👏
A tip for anyone wanting to straighten out copper wire: put a wooden dowel or broomstick in the vice, pass the wire behind it and hold each end, then pull it tight and pull it back and forth in a sawing motion (like you'd do with one of those roll up wire camping saws). If the copper's really thick or stubborn, you can heat it to red hot with a blowtorch and let it cool down again before straightening it, copper "work hardens", so the more it's bent the harder it gets - the heating & cooling reverses this softens it up again.
Three cheers for the Spotted Cow!
To straighten copper wire; affix one end to a bench or vise and hold the other end taut with vise grips or pliers and use a hammer to tap the pliers in the pulling direction. It will even change sound when it's straight
You would be like...the best neighbor ever, lol
This was very helpful. As you know I just started playing with this stuff. I know the LNB on my too small dish is circularly polarized, I had know idea they were handed as well. I imagine that detail alone would keep me from being successful. Lol 👍
Quick hack: To straighten copper wire, put one end in the vice and the other end in the chuck of a drill. Pull on the wire with the drill and twist it shortly
Great video. It's always fun to try and get weather data. So much cool stuff to browse through.
once again, beer cans and duct tape saves the day!
Very nice image from a bunch of scrap parts! I'm still having issues with getting NOAA VHF to work well. I'm playing with a V di-pole (old tv rabbit ears) and honestly I get a better results using my bearcat scanner with a rubber duck and recording the audio on my phone. It's fun trying tho.
Thank you for sharing this with us.
Thats incredible! What an amazing proof of concept
Joining you tonight with the spotted cow.
I'm amazed at the results! Not bad at all... good job!
I just love your channel!
You are living my dream :D
Good Job on these awesome images!
I need to send you a "care" package of bits of type-F "plumbing" that's useful in projects like this. They're larger and more robust for things like supporting helices, and despite their 75ohm impedance, can be used in receiver systems without much of an issue. Type-F to SMA are readily available. I got sold on type-F for certain things years and years ago. Partially because type-F plumbing bits were readily available at the local Home Depot, etc. I once cobbled together the feed-probe for a hydrogen-line circular waveguide feed using a type-F female-to-female connector, with a paperclip as the probe--jammed into the socket, and liberally treated with hot melt glue. It lasted literally for years!
I have a bunch of F-connector "stuff" and cable around, I just tend to use SMA since they've gotten more common. N connectors were popular for a minute in the 2000s for Wifi but I hardly see those anymore, and of course I still have a pile of UHF connectors around... I'm still not good at remembering the whole impedance thing either, I just grab whatever I need from the drawer-of-adapters and daisy chain them until it works!
@@saveitforparts Type N was developed for high-frequency, higher-power use. A side effect of that is that they're mechanically robust, and some types are intended for outdoor use. Not so much with SMA :) Type N has been around since the 1940s, and still sees lots of use in commercial equipment today.
If you have a bench mounted vice, you can straighten copper by just stretching it a tiny bit. Makes it far easier to work with if it's already been in a coil. Not ideal with enamel + HV, but for antenna elements, makes things heaps easier.
This man speaks and all I can get is "turbo encabulator" mumbo jumbo.
Great channel though.
GREAT! Thank you...more please...take care
Part of me is wondering if a better setup would be to use some welding rod rolled into the major axcis of the helical antenna, and set at the right spacing using 2 or 3 plastic beams with notches spaced correctly, and one of the beams providing the mount to the horn arm of the dish. The advantage being that one could simply use some coreplas for those beams, cut a common notch for the ground plane, then offset that related to the coil spacing for each of the other beams, and then the turned helix rides in each of the notches. Use the Zip Ties to hold everything in place, then zip tie the beam that's going to be the bottom to position it properly on the dish arm. The welding rod I'm thinking of is 3 mm brass (or looks like it's brass, might be drawn copper, it's not copper plated, as I've cut it for various purposes and it's the same material through. I think it's for arc welding but I've used it for spindles for various yarn spinning systems, and am looking to use some for a LoRa collinear dipole antenna.
I'm on try 2 of 3D printing the core of a 70cm (433 mHz) quadrifilar antenna from the @EngineerMeThis channel's video at ua-cam.com/video/OJy-XjGYlGw/v-deo.htmlsi=9oCxDeGGrOGJp9IR . My first time through ended up failing just before the second port of the choke balun coil, so within about 20 min of the print completing. It detached from my print bed. Trying again, if this fails, then the print bed gets a bit of washing and we'll try a third time. If that fails I may need to add more 'support' in the form of a plate and riser with filament attachments to the core. Turning the print from a right hand turn to a left hand turn is simply a mirror action in the slicer.
I hadn't seen the SMA connectors you're using on this build, but I suspect that one of those would be a good match for this antenna. I also don't know how well this would, or would not, be scaled for l-band frequencies. I realize it's not a frequency match at this time, but I'm not yet set up to design my own cores. :-) ('Yet' being the operative word there.)
5:23 print it on a angle with scaffolding.
😊 yeah I see already some folks already said... Establish array with smaller sats and you can do quite a bit
I find they are useful for boosting 2.5 and 5ghz wifi signals. For a while I had one in my chair with the antenna rigged up in the center and it was really fast actually.
"When in doubt, use more duct tape" Yup! You're the Red Green of Radio :D
Like my granddad always said: "If it can't be fixed with duct tape, zip ties, PVC pipe (ABS), hot melt glue, copper wire, a dremel tool, and maybe a little JB Weld.... it can't BE fixed."
Or something like that...
You can set your phone to vertical only mode to avoid rotating the screen.
is that spotted cow I see? LOVE IT! now I know what to do with my 'dead soldiers' lol
Good job Thanks 😊
Change the continuous duct-tape wrap to a few support tabs here and there. Duct tape isn't terribly RF transparent, because it's metallized to a certain extent. The best helical feeds have almost no support scaffold in the middle -- because said scaffold will change the dielectric constant inside the helix. In your case, that's not likely the biggest issue, but something to keep in mind. I'd absolutely change the duct-tape "wrap" though... You know eventually, you'll morph into a biological dish mount, with the TLEs in your head, and the ability to do coordinate conversions without computer assistance :)
Ha, I've already started to remember the rough times for each NOAA satellite in my area. I'm still a terrible antenna mount though, I'm bad at standing still that long!
Great vid!! I would of thought that the focal point would've been straight up from the center of the parabola of the dish, to capture as much of the weak signal as possible.
ur doing fine, bro. Enjoying the videos!
I was just thinking about you while trying to troubleshoot an electric weed whacker that runs then stops...."what would Gabe do?" 😆
Like the channel says, save it for parts lol
Ha, I have an upcoming video on an electric wheedwhacker! But I bought it new since I got tired of fighting the gas ones.
I answered my own question "Gabe would get a screwdriver out and take everything apart"
Got down to the motor with no linkage and it would barely turn, so I think I figured it out.
Admittedly, I used the brushcutter blade to hack through some trees at various time, so not entirely surprised.
Wish the brushless version was out when I bought the system.
Looking forward to your whacker review!
You're going to need one more dish and at least six more laptops to reach the level of NEIL BREEN
Okaaaaaay.... so we know how many takes it takes you to get it on film..... how many beers 🍻 did you go through to get us the perfect 👌 take
I'd like to try printing that .stl on my Ender 3 - not the fancy new ones, but a carefully modified OG. I actually have 2 printers and the Ender 3 (currently with an MKS Gen L board using A4988 steppers) is about to get a 32 bit upgrade with 2130 SPI steppers. After that, Marlin 2.0.
you can get bigger dishes pretty easily - you may not need them for this application but for other radio projects they rule - bigger is better
Yep, I have a bunch, but people keep asking if they can use these little ones. Apparently Europe never used C-Band, so all they have is small ones like this.
my rtl sdr is arriving the next week !
RX comms device is Kerbal approved. Certificate in the mail.
In the event of nuclear holocaust I want to live near Gabe as I know he will have something in his garage that will save us.. Joking aside, this was a brilliant video, I really enjoyed it and loved the humour, showing improvements with adjustments the overall end result - top work !!
Very..super..tresh..antanadish..no.cost
Awesome work
The result is quite impressive, considering it's such a small satellite dish and operated by hand. The advantage of this satellite dish is that it's easily transportable, making it very suitable for mobile use.
Have you already experimented with Amazon Sidewalk in the 900 MHz band? It's included in every Alexa Echo and is widespread in America. The device is equipped with an LLCC62 chip, which is responsible for LoRa.
I haven't tried Sidewalk, I remember briefly looking into it and then didn't have time to follow up.
@@saveitforparts Alright, then I haven't missed anything yet. I assume they have also applied for a developer access to be able to develop their own applications.
TI has released the TI LaunchPad CC1352, which is a development board for Sidewalk applications. It works very well with the Echo 4. Maybe they'll find some time eventually.
"When in doubt, use more duct tape."
Gotta remember that
your awesome luv your videos good stuff and big thumbs up 👍😃👍
You're a genius
In the zombie apocalypse I’m headed to your house man.
Very Nice! Would the combination of different metals in the antenna -- aluminum to nickle/lead solder to copper generate a current that would produce noise?
5:20 good call! I don't have one.
13:58 there is a setting in Android to lock screen rotation, if you drag down the setting menu from the top you can disable auto Rotate and lock the phone to portrait.
this might help.
update, im assuming you are using an Android phone, there maybe a similar option on Apple devices.
there is a lock screen rotation option in the options drawer by default on iOS.
I have seen others in my part of the world use that circular feed in a can feed horn i am not sure but i would think the can around it would bounce the rf missed by the feed to it ? Must be the reason for a normal cantenna....BTW great video don't worry repeating stuff all helpful ! love the satellite dish videos
I've used cantennas for WiFi and GOES satellites, which are linear polarization. I haven't tried it yet for circular polarization, that might be interesting to try.
@@saveitforparts Yes i have seen it used inside these home made feeds such as yours i would be interested in the difference in or out for the feed horn can ,i am very interested trying your experiment's in my part of the world almost ready to start trying ..as you have done on the tracking part and the geo side of it .I will mention an idea i have come up with in a new post here so others might like to try as well .
Can you see the northern lights. Can you got pictures of them from where you are. Do they affect the rf spectrum as seen on SDR?
I saw them, pretty fun. I didn't do anything specific with an SDR for them, it was more of a last minute viewing trip.
love it thanks
"Expertly handcrafted", just like "expertly edited in Ms paint"
Just on quick question to ponder - is the ABS colored black with graphite? Could that be affecting the results that you are seeing? Maybe white ABS pipe may be better?
Just a thought.
1:18 2 seconds later...🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Watching your manual tracking by hand here and in another video and seeing you made the automatic AZ EL mount tracking using Arduino as the brains to control the motor board watching other peoples go's at this it came to me i think there should be a in between system cutting out the computer control altogether . I noticed the Arduino system tracking you have to really be there any way to make sure its working safely and such ....So the idea coming together now as i am building is the motor control is as in your system either the relay board or transistor version controlled both by optocouplers (led that switch an optotransistor on) so same as your system unchanged , now i have made my idea a step above hand control and simple on off switching circuit for motor control i can either hook up an Arduino idea as yours later on if i feel like it or just connect to the motor board opto couplers up to my idea this board (555 dumb Tracking board MK1 ) is controlled by 2 555 timers for AZ EL timing this is then fed to 2 4017s the first and the last outputs fed to 2 555s hooked up as bistable's these are then fed to those motor board opto couplers the bistables will stay on for the time i have set on the Astable 555s ...i want to set the system up so the elevation gos for about 15 mIn once speed is adjusted no need to worry till end of tracking same gos for the the AZ can be set by what is expected in its sky position by seeing the pass on your satellite tracking program ..you can be the brains and seeing the signal levels on sdr sharp or what ever you can do some tweaking to speed on elevation i think the AZ control which i feel would not have to be adjusted once set but can be timed to move if need be .....I have built the board timing is great ...i really hate computers and this is a simple way to automate the motor control without Hal from 2001 space odyssey taking control ....; 0 ) you are still in control and can be built from junk box parts ( don't buy new build from junk ! ) Hard explaining every thing with out plans but if you know what the bits do its very simple to work it out . SO 2 555 ics hooked up as simple astable timers fed to 2 4017 decade counters the first and last of its outputs fed to the set reset of the 2 bistable 555 ics ..i have mounted leds so you can see all the switching going on . more than one way to do all this you could use a 4060 and have the first 2 parts of the idea in same ic as in the astables and decade counters all in the same ic just what you have handy for the idea .
That's an interesting idea, although I don't know enough about raw electronics to do it myself! You could certainly have the motors on timers if you knew the approximate relative speed of the satellite. Old telescopes had something like that, a motor that just compensated for the earth's rotation to keep a star in view. It took a bit of setup and prep to line everything up though.
@@saveitforparts Yes i expect there would be some trial and error in all this once the tracking is ready to be tested but all in all a way to test with out the need of a mini computer ...Yes pretty much the idea the circuit is 2 timers but i feel the AZ might just have to be set up for the pass and left as its more EL more important to track .I noticed these days electronics is a bit different to my time most buy boards already made and connect together where as when i started i built from scratch simple circuits and then connected them to more complex things . You could do it easy in time ,seeing your ablity at writing code is amazing to me as thats a lot harder than soldering parts together i can see you have it in you to do more in electronics just you have not looked into it more on the parts only construction side buts its different times and every one has different interests ; 0 )
Now can you do it with one of the motorized tailgator dishes?
Those are a little too small and don't work very well for L-band, although I've got a project I'm working on that might fix that!
I think the junk you have laying around is different to the junk i have laying around😂
Not related to the video, but the mainstreaming of Satelite tech has always made me laugh when you consider the moment anyone tries to mainstream it, new tech comes in and eats their lunch.
Satellite TV came in, and then cable right after it. Satellite phones started to hit the market, then cell phones right after. Even Satellite Radio came in right before podcasts and the I-Pod.
Its like you can tell when a new Paradigm is about to hit in tech as soon as Satellites get involved.
If you need a cross on the end of the screwdriver handle to show where to belt it try glasses.
Curious that you connected the filter right to the SMA. Is there a reason why you did not run a jumper down to connect the filter at a secure location? In such a way as to relieve tension on the antenna connection.
I was trying to minimize line loss and interference, but yeah a small jumper probably wouldn't hurt.
@@saveitforparts I thought that might have been the reason you did it, just wanted to verify that there was not something I was missing. Thank you, and like to see your doing an awesome job and I enjoy your content Brent very much.
Can you try with just pointing the element is that any worse .. ovy change the polarisation
alright since the theme of "sat dish from anything" seems pretty strong on this channel
i challenge you to 3d print one
I'm actually working on a 3-D printed satellite antenna designed by @t0nito :-)
But print the whole dish
@@nicholas4839 That might not work well with a 12"x12"x12" (300mm^3) build volume. You could slice it in parts and figure out how to pin it all together, but all those joints are going to cause problems with rigidity.
something I would like to see if you can do, is recreate the Karl G. Jansky Very Large Array at say 1/100th scale? 1/1000th? I dunno, but using the same frequency range (if possible) spread out over the same number of antennas like the one you have here (if possible) over the same scaled distance in surface area (if possible) You'd be the greatest citizen scientist ever! And if you put out the CALL to all of us, I'm sure there are a lot of us that have these dishes either laying around, or KNOW someone with a dish or two.
I've tried doing a Very Small Array, but couldn't get the signals synced up. I need one of those fancy Kraken SDRs with multiple inputs!
@@saveitforparts could you not use something like a raspberry pi and some software?
So what can I use the lnb from the old direct tv dishes for? Anything good?
Mmmm, Minty.
Not trying to be a downer but do you have a plans for all this stuff you got when you pass hopefully it can go to someone can enjoy the fun you do every day with is id hate to see all that equipment get throw out and also hope you live a very long life my friend. We are NERDS DEEP DOWN thanks. A+ content love it
I assume there will be a massive estate sale where no one knows what any of it is. Those are always the estate sales I like to shop at 😂
What if you took 2 or 3 small dish antennas and aimed them and linked them all together for a stronger signal? Would that work?
I've tried that and it's really hard to sync up the signals. Even slightly different wires or internal electronics will cause interference :-(
I've got a discarded vintage full size solid, as opposed to mesh, dish. can it be modified to a useful purpose like weather monitoring?
Should be useful for geostationary satellites like GOES if you're in the US, or there are some other options around the world. I'm actually working on something like that right now for a future video!
@@saveitforparts Wow I look forward to this video, thanks
What licensing is required to hop into this?
If you're not transmitting anything, you don't need a license to listen to radio signals or satellites. If it's not encrypted, it's free and open to anyone who can hear it (at least in the US, if you live in some dictatorship then maybe it's different).
I took apart an old RV dish and have aimed it at galaxy 19 to try to get free tv. Nothing is working, I built my own L band LMB and it still isn’t working. I would like to know if you could help me with what I can do to get free TV from Galaxy 19.
Edit: I got it to work.(your videos are what helped me) Thank you!😃😃😃
Do you know which weather satellite can I track in Brazil? Which filter should I need Thank you
You should be able to get all the same ones I can see in North America! The NOAA series, russian Meteor, and GOES geostationary satellites.
Hey Gabe, how does it feel to be the guinea pig, or lab rat? LOL Great job and video.
The rtl-sdr can go to a couple Ghz. How you receive 12 Ghz with this device? Thank you
~12ghz is what comes in from TV satellites (Ku band), then the LNB converts that down by subtracting its Local Oscillator (LO) frequency, usually something like 10.7ghz. So an RTL-SDR can see the lower end of the Ku band shifted into L-band by the LNB. When I use the little Tailgater dishes I'm sometimes doing it a different way, by just tapping into the onboard receiver that can see more of that frequency range.
@@saveitforparts thank you very much
Is that filter absolutely necessary or could you filter the signal with software instead?
The filter helps, plus it has an amplifier built in. You can get the signal with just an antenna and SDR, but it's usually not as good especially with an already small antenna.
Are we ever gonna ask why he has the Wolverine going on with his facial hair?
2 or 3 more beers and your hand tracking will get better ;o)
Hey, what kind of 3D printer do you have?
eeh unlisted but available to everyone since not limited to members only
What is a ruff top dish??
5:28 Don't doubt yourself, 3D printers are a lot more common than you think. And they are so cheap Nowadays, perhaps it's time for you to upgrade. I was excited until you gave up so quickly.
This is actually about the 10th or 12th time I've tried to print one of those damn helixes. I finally got one to work (in an upcoming video) by just copying and pasting the 3D model onto itself to double up the cross supports :-P
As always, @saveitforparts nailing it with the titles, read it, INSTA-CLICK!
get a tracker on it and your good
NFL Sunday Ticket is no longer on DirecTV.
no open military satelites ?? hmmm