I watched the whole series 1 - 7 and I enjoyed it a lot. You found the right balance between normal speed and speeding up through time-lapse. I am a K75RT owner myself and your videos were very helpful. Thanks for making them!
You're welcome. No I don't have videos on it. My first job last year was to change the gearbox and the starter mechanism. My focus was on the job since it was my first. I am learning a lot from yt vids, including yours. My bike is from 1990, bought in 2012 with 190k kms. Now it's on 205k. The bike runs like a charm and I enjoy riding it a lot. The work you did on the head was quite extensive. Was nothing required on de pistons etc.?
Marcel Huguenin Holy crap ! That's a lot of kilometers ! Does it burn oil ? On the bottom end,no job required. The compressions were good. The timing chain and guides/tensionner were like new. The problem was just a melted valve because of vacuum leaks. A lack of attention from the previous owner. Be careful on yours about vacuum leaks on the whole intake,including the pcv hose. They are really destructive on this bike. this injection system do not adjust itself thanks to sensors like the o2 sensor idle speed and such. If you have a vaccum leak the engine will run like a bag of potatoes and lean out and suffer quite a lot from it (burning valves,running too hot) the ecu is just programmed to run a fuel map based on the air vane meter input. no adjustments possible,so fuel/air ratio is really disturbed by even such leaks. To test your bike you can open the oil cap when it's idling. You will see it run very bad with the cap open if the whole intake is tight sealing correctly after the vane meter. : )
michaelovitch Thank you for your tips, much appreciated. I hadn't watch the diagnostic vid, so I did now. Very helpful. My engine runs like a charm and only burns a little when riding long distance on high speed/high rpms, which I think is reasonable. With normal use it doesn't burn any. Vacuum seems fine, very clean engine noise. To understand your last comment should I want to test: If I open the oil cap when running idle it will run bad because I add the false air, otherwise with cap closed vacuum is ok?
Marcel Huguenin When opening the oil cap with engine running you will let the engine to suck air throught the pistons rings. The air will pass from the oil cap bore ,in the cranckcase ,under the piston,through the piston rings and in the intake. This air is not measured by the vane meter...so the air/fuel ratio is not optimal since the vane don't "see" it, to tell the engine controm unit (ecu) to add fuel according to a certain amount of air it can measure. if all your system is tight everywhere,the simple fact to open the oil cap will disturb a lot the air fuel ratio and you will clearly see,feel and hear the rpm fluctuation or lack of regularity. A good visual inspection and research of cracks on the pcv hose,intake boots and O rings in the throttle assembly (and vacuum ports nipples) will be a good thing yet : )
I am enjoying your videos. You inspire me to do more repairs on my own cars. Thank You for creating these videos. Please keep up the good work. I am in Florida, USA.
Thank you very much : ) I'm truly happy to read a such comment,it's very important to me to be able to share something i like and love to do through YT. I'm very happy to see peoples doing things like that too,and that's why i still watch YT today after those years,because peoples like you ,like me, watch others do stuff and do those things themselves too. Thank you a lot,from France,just next to Lyon : )
Found your channel by searching for rear bearing replacement. Viewed your video a couple of times and then replaced the bearing. No problems. Had to cut inner race off with a grinder then crack off with a chisel. Your video was extremely helpful. Please continue to make them. Friend from Florida.
Yes loads of pictures , just sent the head off to an engineering shop to be skimmed and cleaned and the valves reground . (I wasn't brave enough to do it myself). I'll put some stuff up once we start putting the bike back together.
So interesting and educational to watch. One thing though. Since you took the engine apart and did so much work, I would have taken the opportunity and given that engine block a good clean.
Merci : ) Les moteurs des series K sont costauds,mais il suffit qu'un injecteur soit sale ou un peu bouché pour que ça tourne trop pauvre,donc trop chaud. Les soupapes d’échappement n'aiment pas du tout... : )
Super travail, bravo !! J'espere qu'elle te le rendra ;) Il me plaît bien ce modèle et le 3cyl m'intéresse, je ferais bien un café racer sur cette base..
Merci ! 3 cylindres c'est rare,sauf chez triumph... Ces motos sont souvent utyilisées pour les café racer ! Regarde cette beauté : www.google.fr/search?q=BSK+SpeedWorks&rlz=1C1AVNC_enFR578FR578&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=5yDJVImTLMSyUa7rg6gK&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=937 c'est une k100 mais tu peux faire pareil avec une k75 : )
+Sebastian Olave Sanchez Hi, I'm happy to read that you want to see the next part : ) It should be ignition tuning and idle air/fuel mixture tuning. I need to find a fork in good shape too,this one have some play in one of the cylinder.
le bruit ... c'était bien derrière la boite a gant ( c'est la ligne d'échappement ) je ne sais pas ce qu'a fait l'ancien propriétaire comme magouille ) mais la ligne était maintenue par du fil de fer j'ai acheté les attaches du pot ( au moment de tous fixé surprise, un trou au catalyseur un trou environ gros comme une olive, voila ... 500€ le catalyseur quand même . cher pour un smicard ^^ Il fait un peu froid, et nuit un peu tôt . d'ici cette été je prévois de changer certaine pièce si tous va bien . j'ai acheté une chèvre ( pour ne pas me casser le dos sous la voiture ) puis faire quelques autres opération . puis une chèvre a notre disposition est le mieux quand t'a pas de pont ou de fosse ... déja l'embrayage pour cette été ... et apprentissage de comment sortir un moteur ( j'ai déja passer le cap des fluides, et des filtres, + amortisseurs, freins ... ) faut bien passer le niveau supérieur :)
I knew it would be fine after the initial warm up, things need to bed in again :-) You doubt your abilitys, i dont, you take so much care with that engine, every part has to be correct and clean, no leftover parts ha ha :D :D Ive had a washer left over and wondered where the hell did that come from?, but there appears to be no home for it, i think they put extra parts in engines for us to collect :D Im a little confused by the need to tinker with the air/fuel ratio, but im no mechanic so ill shut up before i dig a deeper hole for myself :-) Well im chuffed with that result :-), you have fondled every part and know that the engine has no hidden problems, should last a hell of a long time now :-))
Lol sometimes i have left over parts...it's rare but happens. I've even found a bolt on the bellhousing of my car's gearbox wich was just on the top of it, just like that, for i don't know how many years and at least the 3/4 of the clutch life... The last mechanic was lazy and didn't bolted it back i guess(it's the most difficult to tighten) About the air fuel ratio : it's an injection system with a vane meter wich allow the ecu to calculate how much volume of air enter in the engine by pushing a little gate. At idle the little gate do not move yet,the injection uses a base tuning to run the engine by injecting a static quantity of gas. The air pass through a calibrated bypass always open for idle,the ecu do not work with sensors input.(a bit like a open loop management on nowadays cars as long as the o2 sensor is not hot enough to give accurate values) So you have to tune by hand the gas quantity wich is injected for idle only with a little screw. Like changing the idle jet on a carb : ) this tuning is present to allow a good operation following the butterflies adjustment and the vacuum created by the engine,following its wear.(i guess). Maybe the air temperature too is a variable wich can make you tune it to have a clean idle in cold or hot weather to not have a too rich or too lean idle condition. (exactly like a carb in fact) it's the idle enrichment (the one and only thing adjusted on this injetion) I've stupidly moved this screw when i got this engine,not knowing the problem was a chewed valve and thinking it was a bad idle...so i have to tune it with a fresh engine. : )
michaelovitch Ahh, thankyou for explaining, so tickover is outside the loop untill you take the engine above maximum tickover rpm, so your setting the default tickover mixture. Mind you, there will be a point where the loop starts to function, so getting the tickover mixture as close as possible will make it a smooth transition. Dont i go on?, using long words that i dont understand like "loop" ha ha :D I hope i understood your discription :-) You said you had moved the adjustment, but it wont take you long to get it correct again, we all twiddle stuff and wished we hadnt lol :D Some spare parts matter, but some are just the manufacturers going overboard, we all know of the simple blanking plate that has 12 screws, but it really only needs 4. Ive missed a washer off an engine, the ones used under a bolt that keeps a sheild in place, its stuff that dont make much difference. Never the important critical stuff :D
zx8401ztv Yes it's that . Except it's not a real closed loop like nowadays where a sensor give a feedback to close a loop in the data process and the ecu modify on the fly the fuel delivery. It's a"stupid injection" with a predetermined fuel "map" for idle and one for above idle (950rpm) with no adaptation possible on the air mass sucked in by the engine. the air mass is more or less described to the ecu with intake temperature and flow passing through the vane meter. the simple fact to open the oil cap with the engine running make the engine to stumble.... It's beautiful because you can see it's fine tuned even with this system : ) I agree about overboard,sometimes it's stupid, The worst is underboard wich is not so rare nowadays...
michaelovitch Less sensors has to be good as they do fail, also you dont have to clean/replace a sensor that isnt there ha ha :D Ok its not as perfectly taylored to the slight differences in your engine, but its simpler, i do like simplicity, it behaves itself lol :D
Hi I love your channel. One question: where can I buy the manual to rebuilt the engine? I have a k100 very old and I would like to open renew and reclose it by myself............you have given to me the idea. Can you send me a link where can I buy the manual?
Hello : ) No i didn't replace it (them) It is brand new,there is no wear marks on it. The chain tensionner is nearly fully retracted. That mean the guides,the chain are all good and tight : ) It's a police or military bike wich i've bought. I guess it was done just before they sold it.
Salut, Je ne sais plus exactement,je crois que c'était en magasin mais ça se trouve assez facilement : www.revue-technique-auto.fr/rmt-bmw/1945-rmt-792-bmw-k-75-k-75-c-k-75-s-et-k-75-rt-8696-9782726890738.html www.cultura.com/revue-moto-technique-numero-79-bmw-k75-k75c-k75s-et-k75rt-9782726890738.html Feu vert ,norauto etc
+michaelovitch Et bien, J'en ai acheter une depuis peut, je galère énormément avec les circuit électrique... Je t'invite a prendre contact (haussyt@gmail.com) pour en parler plus en détail.
Hello, maybe you could help me. I have installed the camshaft. I want to test it but when i do it, i feel resistance. I have loosend up the tension of the chain tensioner, with no positive result. The valve position is good. It is not always on tension, sometimes it is sometimes not. The positioning is good, i don't really know what to do next. With the Hex i turn the locking pin, the thing you see on your left side of your hand at 08:26 .
Jules Mestrom Is the head installed on the engine ? have you got spark plugs in the head ? Are you sure the caps on the head are at their respective places ? Are they torqued properly ? you shouldn't loosen the chain tensionner but only for installation ,the oil pressure will tighten it after the first few seconds.
+Alvis Gineika If it was maintained,you will not have to rebuild too much : ) Be careful on the exhaust valves wich are often sign of dirty injectors or vacuum leaks : /
On bmw k bikes k75 or others 3 cylinders the typical whining noise is caused by a counterweight rotating in the engine block. it's driven by gears wich are straight cut gears.so they are noisy. you can hear this sound on sequential gearboxes or dogbox gearboxes wich are equipped with straight cut gears. they all whine like if they were blowing up soon. it's normal,straight cut gears are noisy,that's why all conventionnal gearboxes have helicoidal gears. There is a counter weight on three cylinders because the number of cylinders is not even,the balance between the three moving assemblies(pistons rods) is not correct,the cranckshaft would suffer of it,so a moving part is used to balance this.
michaelovitch the later K1100 has helical clutch shaft gears with sprung backlash ring, no whine at all, the engineering is superb, reminds me of the old Volvo engines which lasts forever!
+fritzz2 On pourrait le penser,mais tout est monté comme ça maintenant,même cette moto depuis 1995. ça marche bien,et si c'est bien appliqué sur des surfaces propres ça ne fuit pas,contrairement au joint qui peut suinter : )
What is the green stuff at 13.57? Must be coolant for aluminium motor. See riders guide. I use the red stuff from VW. Or the radiator vill be clogged and the fan will run like crazy. On 1100 the valve seats can even lose destroying the motor.
Universal coolant. Nearly all engines have their heads made of aluminium,and rarely blocks made of aluminium,except on bikes. How do you get dropped valves seats ? corrosion ?
@@michaelovitch 1.Lot of oxides in the coolant = bad cooling. 2.Oxidation over output valves = overheating. Aluminium expands Moore than steel by heat = valve seats can loosen. 3.Coolant must be nitrate free. Riders guide says something about it, but is not clear. Translation from German to English is poor. 4. I have a 1100. When I bought it the fan run often. I rinsed the system and filled up with water and the red VW stuff. The water pump was overhauled too. The fan runs seldom. The rinse water was let out on the asphalt yard and made a white stain. Still wisible after several years outside.
@@Feinrizulwur I know that coolant should be changed regularly,it's loosing its properties by loosing some of its constituants to create an anticorrosion layer. An engine running lean also do not help,it's running hot : check if you don't have vacuum leaks. My bike had vacuum leaks,was running hot and burnt exhaust valves. Check valve lash too : leaky exhaust valves cause them to burn. On my technical revue,they just say that you must use an anticorrosion coolant for aluminium engines.... Red/pink/yellow/orange coolants in europe have organic additives,last longer,protect better against corrosion. blue/green have mineral additives,a bit less effective in time and protection. Viscosities are different too,and it can be a problem on a very high flow pumps like on K bikes like mine or yours : it can creates cavitation,so it's slowly removing material from the engine,wich increase the metal/mineral in suspension in the coolant. The pump on the k 75/100 is capable of 12 000 liters per hour,wich is huge.
Hey man i just found your channel a couple days ago whilst i was looking for a video to get an understanding of how the clutch works. I've been watching all your videos since then, they are very informative and interesting, you have a fan here all the way from Jamaica.Keep up the good work bro
Merci,mon K75 rt 96 roulait bien ,ça a commencer a brouter ensuite quelque pètarade du pot puis elle ralentit et les vitesse acrochait de moins en moins et ça ètoufait un peut le moteur quand j'accellerai ça acrochait de moins en moins et plus rien ensuite et la baterie s'est considèrablement dècharger,elle est neuve.y a 6 ans j'avais eu ça et le gas qui me l'avais reparer m'avais changer ,je crois juste une giffe,je sais pas comment on appelle ça ,pour que ça acroche les vitesse?
Well done! The old K bikes are some of the best bikes ever. Don't laugh, they are!! You have to live with them a while.
Yes they are : )
I watched the whole series 1 - 7 and I enjoyed it a lot. You found the right balance between normal speed and speeding up through time-lapse. I am a K75RT owner myself and your videos were very helpful. Thanks for making them!
Marcel Huguenin Thank you very much : )
You don't have vids on it ?
How much miles does she have ?
You're welcome. No I don't have videos on it. My first job last year was to change the gearbox and the starter mechanism. My focus was on the job since it was my first. I am learning a lot from yt vids, including yours. My bike is from 1990, bought in 2012 with 190k kms. Now it's on 205k. The bike runs like a charm and I enjoy riding it a lot.
The work you did on the head was quite extensive. Was nothing required on de pistons etc.?
Marcel Huguenin Holy crap !
That's a lot of kilometers !
Does it burn oil ?
On the bottom end,no job required.
The compressions were good.
The timing chain and guides/tensionner were like new.
The problem was just a melted valve because of vacuum leaks.
A lack of attention from the previous owner.
Be careful on yours about vacuum leaks on the whole intake,including the pcv hose.
They are really destructive on this bike.
this injection system do not adjust itself thanks to sensors like the o2 sensor idle speed and such.
If you have a vaccum leak the engine will run like a bag of potatoes and lean out and suffer quite a lot from it (burning valves,running too hot)
the ecu is just programmed to run a fuel map based on the air vane meter input.
no adjustments possible,so fuel/air ratio is really disturbed by even such leaks.
To test your bike you can open the oil cap when it's idling.
You will see it run very bad with the cap open if the whole intake is tight sealing correctly after the vane meter.
: )
michaelovitch Thank you for your tips, much appreciated. I hadn't watch the diagnostic vid, so I did now. Very helpful. My engine runs like a charm and only burns a little when riding long distance on high speed/high rpms, which I think is reasonable. With normal use it doesn't burn any. Vacuum seems fine, very clean engine noise. To understand your last comment should I want to test: If I open the oil cap when running idle it will run bad because I add the false air, otherwise with cap closed vacuum is ok?
Marcel Huguenin When opening the oil cap with engine running you will let the engine to suck air throught the pistons rings.
The air will pass from the oil cap bore ,in the cranckcase ,under the piston,through the piston rings and in the intake.
This air is not measured by the vane meter...so the air/fuel ratio is not optimal since the vane don't "see" it, to tell the engine controm unit (ecu) to add fuel according to a certain amount of air it can measure.
if all your system is tight everywhere,the simple fact to open the oil cap will disturb a lot the air fuel ratio and you will clearly see,feel and hear the rpm fluctuation or lack of regularity.
A good visual inspection and research of cracks on the pcv hose,intake boots and O rings in the throttle assembly (and vacuum ports nipples) will be a good thing yet : )
was worried i needed a special tool to compress then timing chain tension, your video saved me a lot of time. thank you
: )
I'm happy to read that !
I am enjoying your videos. You inspire me to do more repairs on my own cars. Thank You for creating these videos. Please keep up the good work. I am in Florida, USA.
Thank you very much : )
I'm truly happy to read a such comment,it's very important to me to be able to share something i like and love to do through YT.
I'm very happy to see peoples doing things like that too,and that's why i still watch YT today after those years,because peoples like you ,like me, watch others do stuff and do those things themselves too.
Thank you a lot,from France,just next to Lyon : )
Found your channel by searching for rear bearing replacement. Viewed your video a couple of times and then replaced the bearing. No problems. Had to cut inner race off with a grinder then crack off with a chisel. Your video was extremely helpful. Please continue to make them. Friend from Florida.
Danz favorite stuff
I'm very happy it helped you : )
Thanks again !
I have few more to come,i just need my lazy ass to edit them...
great set of videos , i'm rebuilding a 25 year old bmw k75rt and your videos have been very helpful , good to see she didn't blow up!
Yes loads of pictures , just sent the head off to an engineering shop to be skimmed and cleaned and the valves reground . (I wasn't brave enough to do it myself). I'll put some stuff up once we start putting the bike back together.
+Edward Clarke
Have fun : )
Send me a link !
Really enjoyed your k75 videos, thank you for going to the trouble of making them so well
Dave Geraghty
Thank you very much : )
It's sometimes difficult or long,but i'm happy to read such comments and to share stuff i like : )
So interesting and educational to watch. One thing though. Since you took the engine apart and did so much work, I would have taken the opportunity and given that engine block a good clean.
Congratulations, your incredible work, I have a k100 and I have been very helpful your s video, a big hug from BsAs, Argentina.
Thank you very much !
: )
Very nice video, i always appreciate your work
Thank you very much : )
Excellent videos, thanks for sharing!
+akumabito2008
Thank you : )
Actually, I'm Fred, I envy your knowledge, and skills..
Hi,Fred
There is nothing to envy,everybody with two hands can do it.
You need a book and tools with some time to practice : )
Beau boulot, je pensais que ces moteurs étaient indestructibles.
Faut dire qu'avec les moyens de la gendarmerie l'entretien devait être léger.
Merci : )
Les moteurs des series K sont costauds,mais il suffit qu'un injecteur soit sale ou un peu bouché pour que ça tourne trop pauvre,donc trop chaud.
Les soupapes d’échappement n'aiment pas du tout... : )
great video's, learned a lot from it, thank you.
I'm happy for that,thank you !
Great videos! I have learned a lot from you. Thank you!
Thank you : )
Need some new videos michaelovitch. I Enjoy watching and learning. Please make some more.
Danz favorite stuff
I have few ones coming !
I just need to finish to edit them : )
Excelente trabajo ! Congratulations !
+Esteban Malvicino
Muchas gracias : )
Where is the rebuilt?
I only seen putting a new gasket.
Super travail, bravo !! J'espere qu'elle te le rendra ;) Il me plaît bien ce modèle et le 3cyl m'intéresse, je ferais bien un café racer sur cette base..
Merci !
3 cylindres c'est rare,sauf chez triumph...
Ces motos sont souvent utyilisées pour les café racer !
Regarde cette beauté :
www.google.fr/search?q=BSK+SpeedWorks&rlz=1C1AVNC_enFR578FR578&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=5yDJVImTLMSyUa7rg6gK&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=937
c'est une k100 mais tu peux faire pareil avec une k75 : )
hello men, did you finally resolve the problem?? i would like to see the next part!!!
regards
+Sebastian Olave Sanchez
Hi,
I'm happy to read that you want to see the next part : )
It should be ignition tuning and idle air/fuel mixture tuning.
I need to find a fork in good shape too,this one have some play in one of the cylinder.
Beau boulot, merci pour cette vidéo!
Merci !
: )
ah enfin de retour :) toujours de ci belle vidéos ;) et très explicatives
Merci !
J'en ai encore d'autres,je les tourne et monte tranquillement quand je suis pas trop feignant le week end...
: )
Si t en a d autre c est cool . Vivement que nous les voyons
R Jérôme
et la tôle qui vibrait alors ?
le bruit ... c'était bien derrière la boite a gant ( c'est la ligne d'échappement ) je ne sais pas ce qu'a fait l'ancien propriétaire comme magouille ) mais la ligne était maintenue par du fil de fer
j'ai acheté les attaches du pot ( au moment de tous fixé surprise, un trou au catalyseur un trou environ gros comme une olive, voila ... 500€ le catalyseur quand même . cher pour un smicard ^^
Il fait un peu froid, et nuit un peu tôt . d'ici cette été je prévois de changer certaine pièce si tous va bien . j'ai acheté une chèvre ( pour ne pas me casser le dos sous la voiture ) puis faire quelques autres opération . puis une chèvre a notre disposition est le mieux quand t'a pas de pont ou de fosse ... déja l'embrayage pour cette été ... et apprentissage de comment sortir un moteur
( j'ai déja passer le cap des fluides, et des filtres, + amortisseurs, freins ... ) faut bien passer le niveau supérieur :)
R Jérôme
Le catalyseur peut être ressoudé,pas besoin d'en acheter un autre neuf.
Au pire un modèle universel ou un d'occas ça suffit amplement.
: )
If we could only move that fast.
Who would need a bike ? lol
I knew it would be fine after the initial warm up, things need to bed in again :-)
You doubt your abilitys, i dont, you take so much care with that engine, every part has to be correct and clean, no leftover parts ha ha :D :D
Ive had a washer left over and wondered where the hell did that come from?, but there appears to be no home for it, i think they put extra parts in engines for us to collect :D
Im a little confused by the need to tinker with the air/fuel ratio, but im no mechanic so ill shut up before i dig a deeper hole for myself :-)
Well im chuffed with that result :-), you have fondled every part and know that the engine has no hidden problems, should last a hell of a long time now :-))
Lol
sometimes i have left over parts...it's rare but happens.
I've even found a bolt on the bellhousing of my car's gearbox wich was just on the top of it, just like that, for i don't know how many years and at least the 3/4 of the clutch life...
The last mechanic was lazy and didn't bolted it back i guess(it's the most difficult to tighten)
About the air fuel ratio : it's an injection system with a vane meter wich allow the ecu to calculate how much volume of air enter in the engine by pushing a little gate.
At idle the little gate do not move yet,the injection uses a base tuning to run the engine by injecting a static quantity of gas.
The air pass through a calibrated bypass always open for idle,the ecu do not work with sensors input.(a bit like a open loop management on nowadays cars as long as the o2 sensor is not hot enough to give accurate values)
So you have to tune by hand the gas quantity wich is injected for idle only with a little screw.
Like changing the idle jet on a carb : )
this tuning is present to allow a good operation following the butterflies adjustment and the vacuum created by the engine,following its wear.(i guess).
Maybe the air temperature too is a variable wich can make you tune it to have a clean idle in cold or hot weather to not have a too rich or too lean idle condition.
(exactly like a carb in fact)
it's the idle enrichment (the one and only thing adjusted on this injetion)
I've stupidly moved this screw when i got this engine,not knowing the problem was a chewed valve and thinking it was a bad idle...so i have to tune it with a fresh engine.
: )
michaelovitch
Ahh, thankyou for explaining, so tickover is outside the loop untill you take the engine above maximum tickover rpm, so your setting the default tickover mixture.
Mind you, there will be a point where the loop starts to function, so getting the tickover mixture as close as possible will make it a smooth transition.
Dont i go on?, using long words that i dont understand like "loop" ha ha :D
I hope i understood your discription :-)
You said you had moved the adjustment, but it wont take you long to get it correct again, we all twiddle stuff and wished we hadnt lol :D
Some spare parts matter, but some are just the manufacturers going overboard, we all know of the simple blanking plate that has 12 screws, but it really only needs 4. Ive missed a washer off an engine, the ones used under a bolt that keeps a sheild in place, its stuff that dont make much difference.
Never the important critical stuff :D
zx8401ztv
Yes it's that .
Except it's not a real closed loop like nowadays where a sensor give a feedback to close a loop in the data process and the ecu modify on the fly the fuel delivery.
It's a"stupid injection" with a predetermined fuel "map" for idle and one for above idle (950rpm) with no adaptation possible on the air mass sucked in by the engine.
the air mass is more or less described to the ecu with intake temperature and flow passing through the vane meter.
the simple fact to open the oil cap with the engine running make the engine to stumble....
It's beautiful because you can see it's fine tuned even with this system : )
I agree about overboard,sometimes it's stupid,
The worst is underboard wich is not so rare nowadays...
michaelovitch
Less sensors has to be good as they do fail, also you dont have to clean/replace a sensor that isnt there ha ha :D
Ok its not as perfectly taylored to the slight differences in your engine, but its simpler, i do like simplicity, it behaves itself lol :D
zx8401ztv
I completly agree with everything : )
My old car has 3 wires to run the engine and it's deadly reliable !
Hi I love your channel. One question: where can I buy the manual to rebuilt the engine? I have a k100 very old and I would like to open renew and reclose it by myself............you have given to me the idea. Can you send me a link where can I buy the manual?
Hi,
thanks.
Check here : haynes.com/en-gb/motorcycle-manuals-1
If the link does not work ,tell me.
@@michaelovitchthanks, but it doesn't work....... I can tell you my email if you want.......
@@maurooddo2256 Send it to me in my channel in the "about" section.
super travail, bien joue!
Steven Delaney
Merci mucho !
: )
Hello did you replace the timing chain rail??? It needs a new rail every 60k km.
Hello : )
No i didn't replace it (them)
It is brand new,there is no wear marks on it.
The chain tensionner is nearly fully retracted.
That mean the guides,the chain are all good and tight : )
It's a police or military bike wich i've bought.
I guess it was done just before they sold it.
video très instructif. ou est ce qu vous avez eux le manuel s´il vous plait?
Bonjour,
Ici : www.revue-technique-auto.fr/rmt-bmw/1945-rmt-792-bmw-k-75-k-75-c-k-75-s-et-k-75-rt-8696-9782726890738.html
Complimenti sei un maestro
Grazie mille. : )
si,un dia per anno lol
Salut Michaelovitch, où est-ce que tu as acheter ton manuel d'entretien stp ? J'aimerais faire pareil que toi !
Salut,
Je ne sais plus exactement,je crois que c'était en magasin mais ça se trouve assez facilement :
www.revue-technique-auto.fr/rmt-bmw/1945-rmt-792-bmw-k-75-k-75-c-k-75-s-et-k-75-rt-8696-9782726890738.html
www.cultura.com/revue-moto-technique-numero-79-bmw-k75-k75c-k75s-et-k75rt-9782726890738.html
Feu vert ,norauto etc
Eres muy bueno. Saludos
: )
Saludos
Thx! Good video...>> Thailand.
Thanks to you !
Greets from France !
Gros travail, et bien réalisé !! well done !
Pas trop de galère avec l'électricité sur la k75 ?
+Thibault Haussy
Merci : )
Pas de problèmes electriques pour l'instant.
C'est un problème récurrent sur ces motos ?
+michaelovitch
Et bien, J'en ai acheter une depuis peut, je galère énormément avec les circuit électrique...
Je t'invite a prendre contact (haussyt@gmail.com) pour en parler plus en détail.
+Thibault Haussy
ok
message envoyé
Tu devrais enlever ton adresse mail d'ici maintenant,ça peut t'éviter des spams ou autres.
Hello, maybe you could help me.
I have installed the camshaft. I want to test it but when i do it, i feel resistance.
I have loosend up the tension of the chain tensioner, with no positive result.
The valve position is good.
It is not always on tension, sometimes it is sometimes not.
The positioning is good, i don't really know what to do next.
With the Hex i turn the locking pin, the thing you see on your left side of your hand at 08:26 .
Jules Mestrom
Is the head installed on the engine ?
have you got spark plugs in the head ?
Are you sure the caps on the head are at their respective places ?
Are they torqued properly ?
you shouldn't loosen the chain tensionner but only for installation ,the oil pressure will tighten it after the first few seconds.
now confident to buy a used one and rebuild it
+Alvis Gineika
If it was maintained,you will not have to rebuild too much : )
Be careful on the exhaust valves wich are often sign of dirty injectors or vacuum leaks : /
What makes the high pitch whine on bike engines is it the sequential gearbox?
On bmw k bikes k75 or others 3 cylinders the typical whining noise is caused by a counterweight rotating in the engine block.
it's driven by gears wich are straight cut gears.so they are noisy.
you can hear this sound on sequential gearboxes or dogbox gearboxes wich are equipped with straight cut gears.
they all whine like if they were blowing up soon.
it's normal,straight cut gears are noisy,that's why all conventionnal gearboxes have helicoidal gears.
There is a counter weight on three cylinders because the number of cylinders is not even,the balance between the three moving assemblies(pistons rods) is not correct,the cranckshaft would suffer of it,so a moving part is used to balance this.
michaelovitch the later K1100 has helical clutch shaft gears with sprung backlash ring, no whine at all, the engineering is superb, reminds me of the old Volvo engines which lasts forever!
WHY STARTING PROBLEM ?
what is your brand tork key tool ?
It's a SAM one.
I agree, I enjoyed these all. Where is no 8! Please. We want to hear that K75 flying.
+Bernievids
N8 is on the way : )
Bad to the bone. Safe wheelin.
Thank you : )
BENTEX JAM ELECTRIC STARTER PROBLEM ?
The freewheel is a bit dry,the engine was not used in a longtime.
And valves clearances are not properly adjusted.
la pâte a joint c'est de la merde
+fritzz2
On pourrait le penser,mais tout est monté comme ça maintenant,même cette moto depuis 1995.
ça marche bien,et si c'est bien appliqué sur des surfaces propres ça ne fuit pas,contrairement au joint qui peut suinter : )
Great video buddy, you did a great job. nice to see you back, its been a while lol
Thank you : )
I was a bit lazy on the video editing lol
michaelovitch i missed the funky music haha. Nice video & work!
Jules Mestrom
Thank you very much !
What is the green stuff at 13.57?
Must be coolant for aluminium motor. See riders guide.
I use the red stuff from VW.
Or the radiator vill be clogged and the fan will run like crazy.
On 1100 the valve seats can even lose destroying the motor.
Universal coolant.
Nearly all engines have their heads made of aluminium,and rarely blocks made of aluminium,except on bikes.
How do you get dropped valves seats ? corrosion ?
@@michaelovitch
1.Lot of oxides in the coolant = bad cooling.
2.Oxidation over output valves = overheating. Aluminium expands Moore than steel by heat = valve seats can loosen.
3.Coolant must be nitrate free.
Riders guide says something about it, but is not clear. Translation from German to English is poor.
4. I have a 1100. When I bought it the fan run often. I rinsed the system and filled up with water and the red VW stuff. The water pump was overhauled too. The fan runs seldom.
The rinse water was let out on the asphalt yard and made a white stain.
Still wisible after several years outside.
@@Feinrizulwur
I know that coolant should be changed regularly,it's loosing its properties by loosing some of its constituants to create an anticorrosion layer.
An engine running lean also do not help,it's running hot : check if you don't have vacuum leaks.
My bike had vacuum leaks,was running hot and burnt exhaust valves.
Check valve lash too : leaky exhaust valves cause them to burn.
On my technical revue,they just say that you must use an anticorrosion coolant for aluminium engines....
Red/pink/yellow/orange coolants in europe have organic additives,last longer,protect better against corrosion.
blue/green have mineral additives,a bit less effective in time and protection.
Viscosities are different too,and it can be a problem on a very high flow pumps like on K bikes like mine or yours : it can creates cavitation,so it's slowly removing material from the engine,wich increase the metal/mineral in suspension in the coolant.
The pump on the k 75/100 is capable of 12 000 liters per hour,wich is huge.
Nice job. it will run for another 50k
Thanks,
Yes,about that on average.
We also have been waiting a long time, looks like you spent a lot of time cleaning the engine, notice you found a good use for old T-shirts
lol the Tshirt
yes i use them till they die on me,then i zombifie them on the engine parts lol
Hey man i just found your channel a couple days ago whilst i was looking for a video to get an understanding of how the clutch works. I've been watching all your videos since then, they are very informative and interesting, you have a fan here all the way from Jamaica.Keep up the good work bro
TheFreshsmith Thank you very much !
Send me a bit of sun please,it's still shy here... : )
Hi very good video, (I did not know if there is a seal on the chain lid) so I have a lot more info, many thanks from Greece Thessaloniki
Thanks : )
Look here : www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select?product=M&archive=1&series=K569&model=K+75+RT+%280565%2C0573%29
Hero!
Good video, I like the no music seems to relax me more.
Thank you : )
Me too,that's why : )
super travail félicitations.Et tout ça en plein air. encore bravo !!!!
+Noblet Roland
Merci molto !
Bonjour,j'aurai bien aimer avoir un conseil,est ce possible?
Bonjour,
Bien sur.
Ha super merci j'aurai aimè vous tèlèphoner mon numero 0669301780
michaelovitch c un peu compliquer a ècrire,je suis tomber en panne hier,
@@MrLarcher
Je préfère par écrit.
Décrivez moi le problème,dans l'ordre chronologique,très simplement.
Je m'occuperai des questions : )
Merci,mon K75 rt 96 roulait bien ,ça a commencer a brouter ensuite quelque pètarade du pot puis elle ralentit et les vitesse acrochait de moins en moins et ça ètoufait un peut le moteur quand j'accellerai ça acrochait de moins en moins et plus rien ensuite et la baterie s'est considèrablement dècharger,elle est neuve.y a 6 ans j'avais eu ça et le gas qui me l'avais reparer m'avais changer ,je crois juste une giffe,je sais pas comment on appelle ça ,pour que ça acroche les vitesse?
bravo pour le travail
Merci beaucoup ! : )
Very nice -;)
+Alvis Gineika
: )
Thank you !
-;) you did the job