I've changed brake pads on various vehicles before. I got to the stage where I had to push the piston to the bottom of its cylinder and ran into problems. Tried with a 'G' clamp - no luck. Bought a brake piston tool at the auto store and managed to bend it by screwing in too hard - piston didn't move. The worst bit was my wife was sitting there watching me fail. I thought I had a faulty caliper, and asked if she would rather just keep the worn pads on the car until I bought a replacement caliper, or not use the car until I'd bought a replacement. In desperation I decided to check UA-cam - and the rest is history. Thank you for saving stupid me from buying a replacement caliper unnecessarily. Cheers from Brisbane - Australia.
I had the previous brake job done by a shop and he didn't make sure those studs with the were movable back and forth between the rubber seals. I'm grateful you mentioned that, as I was not aware of this. One was dry and did not have any grease most likely when in productions. The other had little grease and did not move freely. I'm glad you showed how to screw in the piston. I thought they all were done using a clamp. Although you didn't show anything about using grease for the glides, I did use it on them as well as applied to the back of the pads according to the instructions on the brake grease pack. The shop guy also left both rotor screws off of one rotor and one screw was left off of the other rotor. We went to the hardware and found a match using the one screw we had on the sample board in the hardware to determine size and threads. Of course some mechanics know you won't see their short cuts. I could not do that to people. This video helped tremendously. Well done. You saved the day.
Thank You for that! Please make more videos working on the Honda, my daughter has a Honda and we appreciate finding videos on car repair because we do all the work needed on her car so thank you ❤️Have a blessed day!
First time doing this and it was a piece of cake. Run into no problems at all. I however was able to use a flat tip screw driver to collapse the drum. Wasn't difficult at all. Thanks Great Video!!
Where can I find this guy? I would like to drop a case of beer by his house. I turned a wrench a lot about 30 years ago. Now, it is rare. After watching this video, I reduced my level of effort by a good hour. Hats off to the guy. And, I found some 90 degree needle nose pliers to work really well. God Bless.
Thanks for publishing this, really saved my ass. I would have definitely stripped those screws and then tried to clamp back that caliper. Following your video, I did both wheels in 45 minutes!
Thank you very much for this! I told my Coworker I'd change his 06 accord 's pads and rotors on all 4. Then.. I did my research.. probably would have charged more if I had watched this first lol. I'll get it done though! knocking it out this afternoon actually.. again thanks for your video it has given me the ease of knowing exactly what to expect.
marc même quand on ne comprend pas l'anglais, la vidéo est tellement bien faite que l'on peut s'en servir pour changer les disques et les plaquettes sans problème, merci et bravo Lonnie.
Good video. Thanks. One 12mm-head bolt was a real bear to remove, as if it were stretched and binding. I didn't have extensions to get an impact wrench in there for the rwmoval, so used a 12mm box-end, with a 14 box end on one of the open-end jaws as a cheater bar. It resisted every 1/6 of a turn, and I had to be extra careful holding the box-end snug to the bolt head so it disn't slip and round the hex points. Once removed, the threads looked good, but there was a little white something on the first 10 or so threads near the end. Looked like corrosion, acted like stubborn LocTite. Tip: I am using carbon-ceramic Akibono pads, and a secondary bonus is that I get NO brown dust residue that makes a car's wheels look so ugly and dirty. I would have liked seeing how you set the new pads in place before slipping that part of the caliper back onto the disk. That step may be straightforward, but I still lime knowing if there's any orientation to positioning them. Thanks again.
This was a great learning video sir, and you did everything right accept you forgot a very important thing, you probably already know this, and that is to grease the sliding guide pins. Never use bearing grease, this will dry up quickly and seize your calipers from sliding, only use silicone brake lube. Canada
I just bought a used 89 prelude a week ago and I'm changing breaks and rotors and man the piston was rusted but I managed to put it back just in till I can do a swap on it. great video man
A brake windback tool is a great idea if you have one. I appreciate the idea of the needle nose pliers. They did not work for me. What eventually worked for me was the flat file. I was able to have the flat file edge slide into the groove and it gave me enough leverage. Hope that helps someone who doesn’t have a special tool for that kind of job.
And also i had issues with mine not lining up to the caliper bracket bolts. The result was that the cross on the piston has to line up to the little stud or dimple sticking out from the new brake pad
Great video! Very clear and complete. Question, do your hands sweat in those gloves, I started wrenching in the 70's, so never got into the gloves but hate the dirty hands...?
David Siudzinski Yes they sure do sweet but they work really well. I change them often and sometimes a glove will fail so I just tear them off and put on another pair. I got some that were to small and they cut off the circulation in my hands. Had to give those away. Gloves are better than hand cleaner. Thanks!
hey Lonnie,a flathead prybar or crowbar fits in the slots just fine to turn that piston in as well,in 2 slots as well if anyone else wanted to know too so u don't gotta ask someone to borrow special tools or take another trip back to the parts store,hope that's good advice to save everyone some time,i found out by dumb luck..just happened to have one nearby last time I did a set of these pads for this kinda car!lol
i like to lubricate that seal before turning the piston back in. I've had them tear before. I also disaasemble and regrease the slide bolts and clean up all the sliding areas with a fine wire brush.
Good video thank you for the detail that you put into it. The fact that the caliper screws in is exactly what I was looking for I have not taken the backs off my wife's car yet I will be doing that tomorrow so you just answered the single question I had. Thank you.
You don't have to. Some do it because if your topped off and you push the piston in it will cause the break fluid to rise in the master cylinder and spill out. If you are at factory specified levels then you should be fine.
David Plass some people un-necessarily top up the fluid as the brakes wear down, this means when u push the pistols back into the calliper the level rises and pisses out of the reservoir...best just to check the level after each push-in.
Great vid, I have my fronts done and tackling the rears tomorrow...juuuuust remember to pump the brakes the 1st time u drive to seat the pads, or it will give u a fright! :-)
Last time I did my brakes on my 97' I forgot to pump the brakes and sideswiped my girlfriends sisters brand new jeep... Did a lot of damage on the 97' nothing on the jeep !
Hey I have a quick question. I have to do all my brakes and rotors for my 06 honda accord and I get how to do everything else but the back. What is that thing your trying to spin? and how much do you need to spin it??? Do i need to bleed the brakes etc?? Please get back to me, Thank you so much!
When turning the piston on this caliber it pushes the fluid back into the master cylinder. You shouldn't have to bleed the brakes, but do check the fluid level after replacing them. The piston on the caliber can't be pressed in, you have to turn it for it to go back in. If you open the bleeder valve you will have to add fluid to the master cylinder and bleed your brakes.
Use Anti-Sieze compound mixed 50/50 with lithium grease on all threads and next time it will come off much easier. Keep tools and hands Clean and grease free at all times as well.
Hey Lonnie- I have a way older Accord but the rear brakes are the same. I had the rotor and pads replaced last year (not the caliper). The left side just started sticking and overheating. I took it apart and worked on screwing back in my piston. It is much harder to turn than what you showed. I can't tell whether it's bad enough- so I checked the other side, which hadn't been overheating- but it seems it's about exactly the same difficulty turning it back in (don't have the tool, but was using a very large file that fits perfectly in the slots with large vice-grips clamped to it for leverage) So now I'm really unsure- calipers bad, or maybe both OK?...
Make sure the brake pad can slide. The sliders should have grease on them and some times the pads are too long and they stick where they should move freely.
It could still be bad. If you are also replacing the rotor you might want to go ahead and replace the caliper just to sure. Safety and reliability is worth the cost.
Well, the rotors and pads are new. I went ahead and cleaned all the rust off as best I could, and really cleaned up the clips well. I'm going to put them back together and on, drive it, and see if by some miracle the sticking stops on the one side. If not- new calipers...
Thanks so much!!! Doing the brakes on my daughters honda and I wanted to push the brake piston in with clamp!! Thankfully I stopped and watched your video! The second side should take me no time at all!
if I had known to turn the piston instead of compressing it with a clamp then i would have done it. but my questions is, did i f up my calipers by compressing them with the clamp or is that ok too.
How can you screw anything up? you only have two slots. A large screw driver works just fine. Some people r already into the brakes before they realize that it does not compress, it screws in.
I've been doing brakes forever-doing the rear for the first time on my Honda Accord. I got the one out together right-the drivers side turns but just does not go in further! I'm thinking I need a new caliper. I turned it for an hour the other day lol still wouldn't go passed a certain point
WOW ! after I figured out how to do this , it was harder to sign in to leave this comment than it was to change the other side ,I broke a tool trying to press the Piston in . I wish I had watch this first, Just out of dimd luck I figured out you have to screw the Piston in ! I need to take one of these apart to see how this works, thanks,
Be sure to loosen the brake fluid reservoir before turning the piston in. That will relieve any pressure in the line and push the fluid back up to he reservoir.
hey i had a question if you are a mecanic? i replace my rotors and brake pads there is no noise anymore but when i am driving on a fwy stars to shake when 60 mph you think i did something wrong ??
I can't get the damn 2 bolts (to get to the rotor) off mine. 08 Honda accord . I've use a breaker bar with all,my might, used a jack (to turn). can't get those suckers to move
Good video, thanks. Get a caliper piston windback tool though, they're $20-30 and are a lot better AND much faster than using a screwdriver or pry bar.
awesome video man. I was having a hard time pushing back the piston on the back brakes. I was trying to use C clamp.. :( but now i know. Gracias amigo.
Did you get cross drilled slotted brakes? I'm thinking about getting some and putting them on the Tahoe by myself. I Watched a couple of UA-cam videos on how to change them. Looks to be not too entirely difficult, but we'll see how it goes. Wish me luck.
Clarence Smith Nah, hust plain rotors. I did get slotted & drill on my acura. I wouldn't buy them again. I think i'll just buy regular. They do look cool but I didn't feel any additional stopping power.
The clips are for making noise to let you know when the brake pads need replaced. Sliders are what the brakes pads ride on and need to be cleaned and greased.
Great video, thanks! A breaker bar or torque wrench will help a lot to get the caliper and caliper bracket bolts to break loose. Definitely get an impact wrench to remove those $*%^ Phillips head screws on the rotors. I ended up using a flat piece of 6-inch angle iron to get the pistons to start turning, once they started, the rest was easy. Even with a few difficulties, replacing both rear pads and rotors only took 2 hours.
When I pull my emergency brake I've noticed only my left rear caliper is braking. I've lifted the car and tested and yes my right rear spins freely with brake fully applied. My foot brake seems to make both calipers brake tho. Any suggestions on what the problem could be? 04 accord v6-6 coupe
Hey victor you should inspect the parking brake cable it may have come loose or broke off if not than internal failure of the barking brake mechanism inside the caliper would be the cause
Hi My Honda mechanic gave me a trick to remove the 2 screws that hold the disk. Take an hammer and tap on the side of the rotor close to the screw (twice for each screw). That is enough to loose the screw and there is no need to use an impact screw driver, a useless tool for this job. In the same time, it loose the rotor from the wheel bearing assembly. Also, there is the need to clean the calliper pins and add new grease in other to make sure they won't cease in place and destroy the new pads. Make sure that all calliper pins booth are in good shape. I also change the hardware.
Guide pin, they definitely have to move freely, and now days depending on the pads you purchase you might have to grind them down to make them move freely to work or they could also stick and cause issues.
I actually don't think it's necessary to put those Phillips head screws back in. I think they're only there to assist in the assembly process at the factory.. The lug nuts hold the disc in place just fine.
Ok so I did a just the cable it looked like the side that was failing was more loose. I tightened the cable so that both sides were even. Now my brake lever has more resistance , BUT after a few days it went back to the slippage :(. I think the cable or the nut on it might be worn
So I got my back calipers changed and rotors and brake pads and they flushed the system but I guess never bleed them and now I got a grinding noise coming from the front why
If you had the back brakes changed you might want to check the pads and rotors on the front. Some times the splash gaurd rust out and interferes with the brakes making noise.
@@LonnieJohnson1 I checked it it’s not that it’s the piston getting stuck out and before it didn’t do that so I guess they flushed the old brake fluid and idk if they bleed the system who knows I just know they changed the back brakes and rotors and calipers and the front wasn’t touched so what happened
I'm just wondering it your front brakes were ever working before now, and now that they have been bleed they are trying to work and the rust on the rotors is making the noise. Just a thought.
@@LonnieJohnson1 I’m pretty sure they were working but the back calipers were seized they said which I got them replaced and rotors and pads and I guess they flushed the system and made my front ones seiz up or since there rusted bad there not working like they were and now the pads are rubbing the rotors so I’m gonna have to replace the rotors and calipers I’m the front in 2 weeks
Brakes are expensive when you have to buy the rotors and calipers as well. I had to do all 4 wheels and on the front I had to replace complete hub bearings upper and lower ball joints and the Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Links. Wasn't fun at all.
I've changed brake pads on various vehicles before. I got to the stage where I had to push the piston to the bottom of its cylinder and ran into problems. Tried with a 'G' clamp - no luck. Bought a brake piston tool at the auto store and managed to bend it by screwing in too hard - piston didn't move. The worst bit was my wife was sitting there watching me fail. I thought I had a faulty caliper, and asked if she would rather just keep the worn pads on the car until I bought a replacement caliper, or not use the car until I'd bought a replacement. In desperation I decided to check UA-cam - and the rest is history. Thank you for saving stupid me from buying a replacement caliper unnecessarily. Cheers from Brisbane - Australia.
Your welcome
Lonnie - Your video is still worth its weight in gold even 7 years after its making. Thanks for your time and effort.
Cheers,
Kirk
Good to hear it's still helpful.
THANK YOU FOR VIDEO LONNIE, WOULD NEVER HAVE FIGURED OUT THAT YOU HAD TO SCREW IN THE CALIPER! SAVED ME A LOT OF TIME.....
I had the previous brake job done by a shop and he didn't make sure those studs with the were movable back and forth between the rubber seals. I'm grateful you mentioned that, as I was not aware of this. One was dry and did not have any grease most likely when in productions. The other had little grease and did not move freely. I'm glad you showed how to screw in the piston. I thought they all were done using a clamp. Although you didn't show anything about using grease for the glides, I did use it on them as well as applied to the back of the pads according to the instructions on the brake grease pack. The shop guy also left both rotor screws off of one rotor and one screw was left off of the other rotor. We went to the hardware and found a match using the one screw we had on the sample board in the hardware to determine size and threads. Of course some mechanics know you won't see their short cuts. I could not do that to people. This video helped tremendously. Well done. You saved the day.
Thanks...and yes the guides should have grease also don't know what I was thinking.
I'm doing my father in laws brakes today on his Accord. I never done brakes on a import car your videos are very helpful, Thanks.
Your welcome
Thank You for that! Please make more videos working on the Honda, my daughter has a Honda and we appreciate finding videos on car repair because we do all the work needed on her car so thank you ❤️Have a blessed day!
Your welcome, and I will see what I can do.
Thanks for making this and posting it. 8 years ago and still kicking ass and helping people! Ha ha
Cool!! and your welcome
First time doing this and it was a piece of cake. Run into no problems at all. I however was able to use a flat tip screw driver to collapse the drum. Wasn't difficult at all. Thanks Great Video!!
+Raphael Kwawu Cool!
Where can I find this guy? I would like to drop a case of beer by his house. I turned a wrench a lot about 30 years ago. Now, it is rare. After watching this video, I reduced my level of effort by a good hour. Hats off to the guy. And, I found some 90 degree needle nose pliers to work really well. God Bless.
Cool!
Thanks for publishing this, really saved my ass. I would have definitely stripped those screws and then tried to clamp back that caliper. Following your video, I did both wheels in 45 minutes!
+Lucas Reilly Your welcome, I'm glad this video could help.
I was stuck trying to get the caliper piston back. Your video from beginning to end was exactly what I needed
Thanks Great video😀😀😀
Cool! Thanks
Thank you very much for this!
I told my Coworker I'd change his 06 accord 's pads and rotors on all 4.
Then.. I did my research.. probably would have charged more if I had watched this first lol. I'll get it done though! knocking it out this afternoon actually.. again thanks for your video it has given me the ease of knowing exactly what to expect.
+Joshua Price Your welcome...
+LonnieJohnson1 took me about an hour and a half for all 4 rotors and pads. Not too bad.. lol
Bout to do a doge nitro now.. hope there's a video! 😃
Going try this today y’all pray for me great video clear instructions
Thanks and let me know how it goes.
marc
même quand on ne comprend pas l'anglais, la vidéo est tellement bien faite que l'on peut s'en servir pour changer les disques et les plaquettes sans problème, merci et bravo Lonnie.
Good video. Thanks. One 12mm-head bolt was a real bear to remove, as if it were stretched and binding. I didn't have extensions to get an impact wrench in there for the rwmoval, so used a 12mm box-end, with a 14 box end on one of the open-end jaws as a cheater bar. It resisted every 1/6 of a turn, and I had to be extra careful holding the box-end snug to the bolt head so it disn't slip and round the hex points. Once removed, the threads looked good, but there was a little white something on the first 10 or so threads near the end. Looked like corrosion, acted like stubborn LocTite.
Tip: I am using carbon-ceramic Akibono pads, and a secondary bonus is that I get NO brown dust residue that makes a car's wheels look so ugly and dirty.
I would have liked seeing how you set the new pads in place before slipping that part of the caliper back onto the disk. That step may be straightforward, but I still lime knowing if there's any orientation to positioning them.
Thanks again.
Your welcome, and the squeaker on the brake pad I put in the back at the bottom.
Thanks alot from Egypt
I just changed my Accord brake pads myself after see you video .
Its really helpful specially the part of turn the piston .
This was a great learning video sir, and you did everything right accept you forgot a very important thing, you probably already know this, and that is to grease the sliding guide pins. Never use bearing grease, this will dry up quickly and seize your calipers from sliding, only use silicone brake lube. Canada
Nice video, Good bless. Is really nice seeing really good people helping their fellow brothers on the Internet
Thanks!
Thank you for this video, turning the piston back into the caliper was exactly the info I needed. I was about to go get a bigger C-clamp!
Your welcome, glad I could help.
I just bought a used 89 prelude a week ago and I'm changing breaks and rotors and man the piston was rusted but I managed to put it back just in till I can do a swap on it. great video man
Thanks!
Rather than try to turn with a flathead, I found it a lot easier to use needle nose pliers that were partially open to act as a flat head screwdriver.
presidentof69. You know they make a tool for that!
I also find that a brake wind-back tool fits perfectly... :-)
A brake windback tool is a great idea if you have one. I appreciate the idea of the needle nose pliers. They did not work for me. What eventually worked for me was the flat file. I was able to have the flat file edge slide into the groove and it gave me enough leverage. Hope that helps someone who doesn’t have a special tool for that kind of job.
Great job Lonnie. Thanks for this money-saving tutorial!
Thanks, and your welcome.
Thanks! The front were damn easy, took me about an hour but I bet I could do it in half that time, I'll take my time learning the rear with your help.
Cool!
Just what I needed. I would have never guessed the piston screwed in... Thanks!!
Right every time I used a clamp and I definitely would have if I didn’t see this video
And also i had issues with mine not lining up to the caliper bracket bolts. The result was that the cross on the piston has to line up to the little stud or dimple sticking out from the new brake pad
Bernie Lindell my best friend was hitting it with an 4 pounds hammer 😂
Dude, thank you for saving me time. I couldn't figure out how to reset that rear caliper.
you don't release the valve to make it easier to collapse the piston?
Great video! Very clear and complete. Question, do your hands sweat in those gloves, I started wrenching in the 70's, so never got into the gloves but hate the dirty hands...?
David Siudzinski Yes they sure do sweet but they work really well. I change them often and sometimes a glove will fail so I just tear them off and put on another pair. I got some that were to small and they cut off the circulation in my hands. Had to give those away. Gloves are better than hand cleaner. Thanks!
Is there any reason it would be tight over the brake pads? I have loosened the calipers a bunch and it’s still a tight fit.
Many thanks. I tried the clamp to reseat the caliper piston but, realized something else was going on here. Thanks again.
Your welcome
That caliper looked loose? Was it not able to come off via pull of a hand?
My caliper wasn't 1/2 as easy as yours... That was the hardest part... getting it to turn... I used everything and broke it all... Thanks..
Your caliber was froze up?
hey Lonnie,a flathead prybar or crowbar fits in the slots just fine to turn that piston in as well,in 2 slots as well if anyone else wanted to know too so u don't gotta ask someone to borrow special tools or take another trip back to the parts store,hope that's good advice to save everyone some time,i found out by dumb luck..just happened to have one nearby last time I did a set of these pads for this kinda car!lol
Hey thanks, it's not hard to find a tool or something you already have. No need for special tools.
i like to lubricate that seal before turning the piston back in. I've had them tear before. I also disaasemble and regrease the slide bolts and clean up all the sliding areas with a fine wire brush.
Good video thank you for the detail that you put into it. The fact that the caliper screws in is exactly what I was looking for I have not taken the backs off my wife's car yet I will be doing that tomorrow so you just answered the single question I had. Thank you.
Thanks and your welcome
Very clear and concise not a lot of taking like some videos.
the explanation was simple and wonderful
thank you
Your welcome
Do you have to drain a little brake fluid before you push the pistons in? I've seen that in other vids
David Plass I was wondering that myself . I just took mine in to get replaced . cost me 89 dollars.
You don't have to. Some do it because if your topped off and you push the piston in it will cause the break fluid to rise in the master cylinder and spill out. If you are at factory specified levels then you should be fine.
David Plass some people un-necessarily top up the fluid as the brakes wear down, this means when u push the pistols back into the calliper the level rises and pisses out of the reservoir...best just to check the level after each push-in.
Remove the master cylinder cap. The level should rise, but the Pistons should go in a bit easier.
Always use Jack stands never trust a hydraulic jack.... the video is great
+Calvin Johnson Thanks and you r right about the jack stands.
I always put my tires under the car after I take them off just as something really solid to brace a fall if everything fails
Great vid, I have my fronts done and tackling the rears tomorrow...juuuuust remember to pump the brakes the 1st time u drive to seat the pads, or it will give u a fright! :-)
Thanks and yes you need to pump the brakes after the install of the new ones.
Last time I did my brakes on my 97' I forgot to pump the brakes and sideswiped my girlfriends sisters brand new jeep... Did a lot of damage on the 97' nothing on the jeep !
Hey I have a quick question. I have to do all my brakes and rotors for my 06 honda accord and I get how to do everything else but the back. What is that thing your trying to spin? and how much do you need to spin it??? Do i need to bleed the brakes etc?? Please get back to me, Thank you so much!
When turning the piston on this caliber it pushes the fluid back into the master cylinder. You shouldn't have to bleed the brakes, but do check the fluid level after replacing them. The piston on the caliber can't be pressed in, you have to turn it for it to go back in. If you open the bleeder valve you will have to add fluid to the master cylinder and bleed your brakes.
Use Anti-Sieze compound mixed 50/50 with lithium grease on all threads and next time it will come off much easier.
Keep tools and hands Clean and grease free at all times as well.
Hey Lonnie- I have a way older Accord but the rear brakes are the same. I had the rotor and pads replaced last year (not the caliper).
The left side just started sticking and overheating. I took it apart and worked on screwing back in my piston. It is much harder to turn than what you showed. I can't tell whether it's bad enough- so I checked the other side, which hadn't been overheating- but it seems it's about exactly the same difficulty turning it back in (don't have the tool, but was using a very large file that fits perfectly in the slots with large vice-grips clamped to it for leverage)
So now I'm really unsure- calipers bad, or maybe both OK?...
Make sure the brake pad can slide. The sliders should have grease on them and some times the pads are too long and they stick where they should move freely.
OK. But then do you think the caliper pistons might be OK then, even though they are harder to retract? (Btw, thanks for answering)
It could still be bad. If you are also replacing the rotor you might want to go ahead and replace the caliper just to sure. Safety and reliability is worth the cost.
Well, the rotors and pads are new. I went ahead and cleaned all the rust off as best I could, and really cleaned up the clips well. I'm going to put them back together and on, drive it, and see if by some miracle the sticking stops on the one side. If not- new calipers...
Every time I switch out the pads I come back to this video.
Cool!
Thanks so much!!! Doing the brakes on my daughters honda and I wanted to push the brake piston in with clamp!! Thankfully I stopped and watched your video! The second side should take me no time at all!
Your welcome
I have a 2005 accord and it has 2 rear drums instead of brakes. Is it worth it to change over to brake discs?
My opinion is, there is nothing wrong with having drum brakes, save your money.
Great video. Impact driver helped me get a stuck screw out.
I'm stuck on my rear brakes. I've managed to get the piston to turn, but it won't screw in - no matter how many times I turn it. Suggestions?
I would open the bleeder and try to press it in with a small clamp while turning it and see if that works. You might have a bad caliber.
if I had known to turn the piston instead of compressing it with a clamp then i would have done it. but my questions is, did i f up my calipers by compressing them with the clamp or is that ok too.
now it feels bumpy when i aply the break
+Jorge De Alba You may have damaged the caliper if it was compressed straight in.
Plain and simple I am ready to do mine, thanks for the video 👍saves me some 💰
Cool!
What if my piston doesnt want to get back in. Mine its stuck. What can i do?
Thanks for the video my back rotors are rusty so this is a spring job I must do to my honda.
great video..doing my sons 2009 rear breaks have mostly done american cars, the screws in the rotor could be a pain..thanks again u made it easier
Thanks for the post, helped me get the job done.
Cool! your welcome
helped with the collapsing piston. I dont understand the twisting but it works Thanks Ray
go to autozone or pep boys for a brake piston retraction tool to rotate it in. using a screwdriver like he did will probably screw you up.
How can you screw anything up? you only have two slots. A large screw driver works just fine. Some people r already into the brakes before they realize that it does not compress, it screws in.
Lonnie you are the man! You have saved me hundreds, thanks so much for such a great video!
Your welcome, I'm glad I could helped.
I've been doing brakes forever-doing the rear for the first time on my Honda Accord. I got the one out together right-the drivers side turns but just does not go in further! I'm thinking I need a new caliper. I turned it for an hour the other day lol still wouldn't go passed a certain point
If it wont turn in any further I would try to press it on in. If it's bad your not going to hurt it.
WOW ! after I figured out how to do this , it was harder to sign in to leave this comment than it was to change the other side ,I broke a tool trying to press the Piston in . I wish I had watch this first, Just out of dimd luck I figured out you have to screw the Piston in ! I need to take one of these apart to see how this works, thanks,
Hi Lonnie thank you for taking the time to do this
Your welcome
Be sure to loosen the brake fluid reservoir before turning the piston in. That will relieve any pressure in the line and push the fluid back up to he reservoir.
Yes, thank you!
Thanks for the cylinder explanation. I had my
clamp on it and thought I had to get a new caliper cause it wouldn't sink in!!
8 years later. Thank you!
Your welcome
You didn't talk about relubricating the slide pins....this is a very important point....the caliper needs to slide on the pins
Some needs it and some don't
Btw the other two holes on the rotors can be used with 8mm bolts so if the rotor seizes you can screw bolts to pop loose and break the rust
Thanks for the info
Honda Accord 2007 4 cylinders is the same process?
Cool! thanks for the info.
Great job with easy and simple steps. Thanks.
hey i had a question if you are a mecanic? i replace my rotors and brake pads there is no noise anymore but when i am driving on a fwy stars to shake when 60 mph you think i did something wrong ??
No you did nothing wrong, what it sounds like is the tires need to be balanced. Let me know if that works.
where can i check that ?? in like a tire shop ? or do alignment ?
please let me know what i have to go then i will do that tomorrow morning
would you recommend to lube the sliding pins?
+Joe T Yes!
Excellent video straight to the point. I appreciate your help, I gotta work on mine this weekend. God bless
Thank you, glad to help
I can't get the damn 2 bolts (to get to the rotor) off mine. 08 Honda accord
. I've use a breaker bar with all,my might, used a jack (to turn). can't get those suckers to move
You talking about the bolts that hold the caliper on?
Great video, very informative
Thanks
THANK U MUCH LONNIE JOHNSON!! HERO!
Webber S Glad I could help!
Good video, thanks. Get a caliper piston windback tool though, they're $20-30 and are a lot better AND much faster than using a screwdriver or pry bar.
Thanks and glad I could help also thanks for the info.
awesome video man. I was having a hard time pushing back the piston on the back brakes. I was trying to use C clamp.. :( but now i know. Gracias amigo.
Did you get cross drilled slotted brakes? I'm thinking about getting some and putting them on the Tahoe by myself. I Watched a couple of UA-cam videos on how to change them. Looks to be not too entirely difficult, but we'll see how it goes. Wish me luck.
Clarence Smith
Nah, hust plain rotors. I did get slotted & drill on my acura. I wouldn't buy them again. I think i'll just buy regular. They do look cool but I didn't feel any additional stopping power.
Do I need to put those lock bolts back in the rotor because I changed mine one time and never put them back in
No you should not. I have changed rotors that just fall off after you take the tire off.
LonnieJohnson1 thanks ! I wasn't sure
What's the clip on the brake pads do they usually come with them or do I buy them separately and if so what are they called
The clips are for making noise to let you know when the brake pads need replaced. Sliders are what the brakes pads ride on and need to be cleaned and greased.
Some brake pads come with the clips built in and others u have to purchase.
THANK YOU! You’re the real life saver!!
Your welcome
Got the bolt out of the top of the Caliber.... The bottom one wouldn't budge. It's rounded over. How do I get it out?
Small Pipe wrench.
Excellent video. Thanks for posting!
+peaman2424 Thanks, glad to help!
got it I'll do it tomorrow , cus its late but appreciate the help .
I'm going to do this project on my sons car this weekend. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Great video, thanks! A breaker bar or torque wrench will help a lot to get the caliper and caliper bracket bolts to break loose. Definitely get an impact wrench to remove those $*%^ Phillips head screws on the rotors. I ended up using a flat piece of 6-inch angle iron to get the pistons to start turning, once they started, the rest was easy. Even with a few difficulties, replacing both rear pads and rotors only took 2 hours.
Thanks and your welcome
whats the best way to get a stripped slider bolt out
When I pull my emergency brake I've noticed only my left rear caliper is braking. I've lifted the car and tested and yes my right rear spins freely with brake fully applied. My foot brake seems to make both calipers brake tho. Any suggestions on what the problem could be? 04 accord v6-6 coupe
Hey victor you should inspect the parking brake cable it may have come loose or broke off if not than internal failure of the barking brake mechanism inside the caliper would be the cause
Hey Victor I agree with Gibsons comment.
Great video. Thank you very much for making it.
Thanks, and your welcome
Wow that's my car exactly! Color wheels everything. Lol. Is it manual?
Yes
Thanks for the video mr, you saved my day.
+Denis Lopez Glad to help!
Gracias compadre ,me ayudo mucho
de nada
Thanks man spent 2hrs trying to clamp the rears I fort it felt diff to fronts 🙄
Your welcome
Huge help thanks a ton gonna do it to the wifes this weekend
Cool! glad I could help.
Thank you for making this video
sharon stares Your welcome
Thanks for saving me some money. Great video!!
+Stan Bell Your welcome, and thanks!
Too bad you didn't capture the alignment of the brake pad pin in the cross groove channel
Sorry, this was about brakes and rotors, I didn't have a issue with my pins. However, I will remember the next time I do brakes. Thanks
Hi
My Honda mechanic gave me a trick to remove the 2 screws that hold the disk. Take an hammer and tap on the side of the rotor close to the screw (twice for each screw). That is enough to loose the screw and there is no need to use an impact screw driver, a useless tool for this job. In the same time, it loose the rotor from the wheel bearing assembly. Also, there is the need to clean the calliper pins and add new grease in other to make sure they won't cease in place and destroy the new pads. Make sure that all calliper pins booth are in good shape. I also change the hardware.
The brakes will stick at best and can seize if the guide pins are not lubed.
Guide pin, they definitely have to move freely, and now days depending on the pads you purchase you might have to grind them down to make them move freely to work or they could also stick and cause issues.
I actually don't think it's necessary to put those Phillips head screws back in. I think they're only there to assist in the assembly process at the factory.. The lug nuts hold the disc in place just fine.
Your right, that's all it is used for at the assembly plant.
Ok so I did a just the cable it looked like the side that was failing was more loose. I tightened the cable so that both sides were even. Now my brake lever has more resistance , BUT after a few days it went back to the slippage :(. I think the cable or the nut on it might be worn
You did a good thing here
Thanks!
You do not need to put back the screws that are taken out of the rotors they are just put in during factory process to stop them falling off
Good to know, thanks
So I got my back calipers changed and rotors and brake pads and they flushed the system but I guess never bleed them and now I got a grinding noise coming from the front why
If you had the back brakes changed you might want to check the pads and rotors on the front. Some times the splash gaurd rust out and interferes with the brakes making noise.
@@LonnieJohnson1 I checked it it’s not that it’s the piston getting stuck out and before it didn’t do that so I guess they flushed the old brake fluid and idk if they bleed the system who knows I just know they changed the back brakes and rotors and calipers and the front wasn’t touched so what happened
I'm just wondering it your front brakes were ever working before now, and now that they have been bleed they are trying to work and the rust on the rotors is making the noise. Just a thought.
@@LonnieJohnson1 I’m pretty sure they were working but the back calipers were seized they said which I got them replaced and rotors and pads and I guess they flushed the system and made my front ones seiz up or since there rusted bad there not working like they were and now the pads are rubbing the rotors so I’m gonna have to replace the rotors and calipers I’m the front in 2 weeks
Brakes are expensive when you have to buy the rotors and calipers as well. I had to do all 4 wheels and on the front I had to replace complete hub bearings upper and lower ball joints and the Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Links. Wasn't fun at all.
At 3:55, what are you turning clock-wise and why?
The caliber can't be forced in with a clamp, it has to be turned in. They do make a special tool to do this with but a screwdriver will work.