Thanks for sharing your knowledge Bob. For Aussie beekeepers this is an excellent video showing how beekeepers live with and manage varroa mites. Your explanations of techniques and the decision making process is educational and of great value.
Really informative video, nobody I follow is making and taking this level of effort to share information. Thank you Sir! I've only kept bees now going on 5 years. First 2 were disastrous and now I'm near 100% sustainable thanks to you. I've been practicing brood break periods, where there isn't any new brood being laid to interrupt the mite cycle. Right after the Basswood flow is done, I crush the queens, let the bees backfill some of the vacated comb and then when the new queen is successfully raised, off the the races we go for winter. And like you mentioned, about 20% need that second try to make there queen.
Our goldenrod has been in bloom here in taft,tn for two weeks now. Usually its September. Very different season, everything bloomed 2 to 4+ weeks early. Not sure what the Lord is doing but I've learned to trust him:) thanks for taking time to keep us up to date, God bless
Good morning Bob, well done , thank you for your hard work and keeping everyone on the cutting edge on our quest to become better beekeepers, Antoine, Henderson county beekeepers association 😊🐝👍
Good day Bob. See, a couple years back when that doctor, researcher with a strange accent (who gave me my name) with black finger nails, together with that other doctor were talking bad about oxalic-glycerin strips.. I told you all that they were doing something wrong because by then I used it in combination with brood breaks around 5 years and it always worked fantastic for me. Actually together with 40 years of selection it became my only treatment for the entire year. And I finally after fighting varroa since 1977- 78 can say.. l don't have a problem with varroa anymore. I'm glad you kept at it and find a way to make it work for you
Mr. Binnie, you nailed it. I am a small bee keeper but have had as many as 70 hives. The tracheal mites are what started me trying to find bees that didn't need treated. After a lot of searching I started with Buckfast bees because they were already pretty immune to Acarine and went from there. The thing i found out was to stop bringing in more bees unless they were already showing signs of immunity. I haven't treated for varroa in twenty years. They aren't mite proof. Out of twenty hives i found 3 mites last year and none this year, so they are holding their own. I am sure that out of all the bees you have you already have some that are already very mite resistant. I love your videos. I am no business man but really like raising bees.
Good morning from Germany. Thank you so much for putting out so much information again and again. Long time viewer, learned more from you than from anybody else. Much appreciated!
Thank you for making this video. I'm a first year beekeeper choosing to use apigaurd for my mite treatment on the advice i read in bee culture magazine. It's comforting and educational to see you and so many other beekeepers i follow using apigaurd. Thank you for all your amazing videos. Take care King Bob.
Great video Bob! My plan is once I can sustain my operation and no longer supplementing it with funds from my main source of income my plan is to do the same with gentics. I really appreciate the time you put into them. I have learned so much over the last 5 years! Thanks so much!
Good morning Bob I am in Polk county FL started in March bought 5 nucs caught 3 and made some spilts lose 5 to wax moths and mites using aprivar, thanks for being my mentor sir I am hoping to have about 20 for next spring just turn 68 retiring in December again thanks to you and the team
Excellent Video Bob. I always value and look forward to your videos every Sunday morning. Today's however is what i would consider the video of the year to watch and even recommended it to my bee club.
Bob, Your so right about Apiguard shutting down the Queen. It has virtually stopped all of them from laying eggs. I assume that has to be part of the plan for devlpong this product, forcing a brood break without removing or killing the queen. This has to be a major contributing factor to it's efficacy.
As always you’ve produced an outstanding video. Bravo for showing off the rubbish bag to properly remove hive debris. So many commercial Bks I know aren’t as professional. Quick thought on who eats out the oxalic pads and who doesn’t, that also speaks to your point re Queen genetics: eaten pads = hygienic Qn; full pads = non hygienic Qn. I’d wager your high count mite washes were from hives with untouched pads. Thanks again for sharing your wealth or experience and information.
You could be right. I have a friend that swears that colonies that remove foreign debris of any kind are more hygienic and will have less mites. Sounds like an easy scientific experiment for somebody. Let me know your results. 😉
Great video Bob. I’ll say it again “Love your work environment!” Keep up the great work guys. When I started beekeeping I mentored with a commercial guy. And he told me something that has proven to work. “A dead mite can’t be resistant” I’ve been treating my bees to keep mite as low as possible ever since.
Morning Bob, i had to come looking for your video this morning. 🙄You would think Notifications would be easy for UA-cam. Thanks for talking about your experiences with the OA strips, and showing us your counts on them. It is great to see new(old) organic options to the synthetics that are safe(r) and effective, while used in a treatment retinue. Yep, Clean Bees is Happy, Healthy Bees I learnt that from you. Blessed Days Bob and Crew...,
This video was one of my favorites, along with the video on with the one about feeding sugar as opposed to HFCS, and the video talking about honeycomb and the toxins that persist in it. We are looking forward to you coming to St. Louis and speaking in February @ the Eastern Missouri Beekeepers Association conference. Thanks for all you do in the beekeeping world. -Tom Sostman
Good morning Bob, it is a pleasure to see your interesting videos, I really learn a lot from them. Very clear and illustrative. Greetings and blessings to your entire work team, you can see that they are coordinated and have a wonderful atmosphere. Greetings from Monterrey Mexico.
Bob this was really great oa extended release is the way to go thank u so much for sharing this. What did you use as the mextrax for the oa. I hope u and your crew and wonderful family has a very Blessed week. I am also looking forward the Gregs talk.
I’m going to try the OA pads next season like you did here. I’ve used Apigaurd the last 3 years. It definitely knocks them back but. Just believe the loads get too high in MS to get all zeros at the end of treatment. I still get 3-4 per 300 even after 3 40g treatments. May wait a month and do OA vape into the Fall. Then winter solstice. Maybe the pads will keep the loads lower for me and I can follow with Apigaurd
As always Bob great video. One word about extended relase oxalic pads. I would like to add that bees with higher clearning behavior(genetics) have lower mites count. Bees in this hives damage sponges more and spread oxalic all over the hive. Can't say that I'm 100% sure about it but I see a big diffrence in this type of colonies. All the best from Europe.
Hello Bob . That was funny I was in the middle of writing to ask you if you still are trying any of the other mite wash fluids an there popped up Jesse so I just started over . I have been keeping bees a long time also BUT BUT like you said every day week month an year is always different. With that said by YOU an other bee keepers helping us remember thing we forget from time to time or just things that are NEW AN UPDATED in bee keeping because yes it always changes like you said an that may be for the good or the bad. So never think you are boring us or over talking about any subject. The respect that I an all the other bee keepers have for you and the work an time you put into spreading your years of hits an misses to help all of us be a better bee keepers . Hope you had the best season ever. Thanks
In 2021, I treated my apiary with Formic Pro in early September and then Hop Guard 3 in November when the hive was broodless. 5 out of 5 colonies made it through winter. In 2022, I treated my apiary with Formic Pro in early September and then Hop Guard 3 in November when the hive was broodless. 6 out of 7 colonies made it through winter. In 2023, (I thought it would be better to mix up my mite treatment method and try to treat earlier) I treated my apiary with Apiguard in August. I treated with 2 half doses per label instructions when temperatures are high. By Thanksgiving, 8 of 10 colonies were dead. The remaining 2 colonies died midwinter Looked like colony collapse disorder. When the hives looked fine one week and then 2-3 weeks later, almost all of the bees left the hive and did not return. My coworker, who is also a beekeeper, treated all 26 of their colonies with Apiguard. All 26 colonies died. These colonies were in a different area (different county) than my apiary.
Yessir "Ask me how I know" haha I scorched a few rhis year. Singles using 25 to 30 grams 3x. Made 7 outta 45 fly the coup. Glad I decided to do only 2 yards
Very informative info while having Sunday morning coffee. It’s interesting how the multitude of beekeepers pitch in and share there knowledge. Very helpful content. Thank you.
You just saved me from a screw up of epic proportions 😅 I intended to attempt thymol treatment this year along with oxalic acid vapour treatment and oxalic slow release pads so I'm really glad you commented on that😂 we live in a thyme area and I'm not sure how much of the thymol from the nectar gathering gets into the hive and if it has any effect on mite counts but I wanted to experiment with using it in hives to see what results I get. Guess I'll have to rethink that 😬😅 great video 👍👋 thanks from central Otago southern New Zealand 👋😃
Thanks Bob we need lots of education down here in Australia now that Varroa has arrived. I think it’s disappointing that we will be unable to use Oxalic Acid or Vapour as they are not approved. Anyway I don’t know enough about treatment so videos such as this will be helpful along with education by the authorities in Australia. 👍🐝
Hi, Bob! Here’s a cautionary tale about using Apiguard in hot climates. Being in East central NC, it’s regularly over 90. Our flow ends in late May or early June. Wanting to get a mite treatment in ASAP, I treated with half doses (25ml) of Apiguard on double deeps in July. The bees were fine. But some colonies just absconded and ran away. Most stayed but abandoned the second box. With no bees policing a box this time of year, the top boxes got slimed by beetles and wax moths moved in as well. All in the span of a week. Now, I’m left picking up the pieces of missing colonies and destroyed comb. And I still need to treat for mites!
We had just removed the sourwood supers the day before. Rain was coming that day and we left the escapes behind on several yards while trying to hurry.
Brilliant video Bob! A shut down this time of year would be devastating in my nests. I need this brood nest to slingshot into making an August winter nest
Lots of good information there, thanks for posting this vid. Can you say how you are confident shaking a frame of bees and scooping a half cup without having found the queen? How do you know she didn't go into the alcohol wash and get killed? Thanks
Thanks for the explanations and encouragement to check and keep after the mites! I’m wondering if I use formic soon if they will backfill the brood nest where the fresh eggs should be
Thanks for yet another great video. What are your thoughts on Randy Oliver's extended release thymol treatments? A thought for a winter video - You must know a ton of ways to split hives. I assume, some you use and some you don't. It would be interesting to understand when and why you (or a hobby beekeeper) would use one vs another. Thanks
Bob, Two quick questions. The apigaurd instructions say to put the pads above the brood chamber which is typically the bottom box, they say to put the pads in-between the 1st and 2nd box even if brood is also in the top box. So, I consolidated my upper brood into the bottom chamber and then placed the pads between the two boxes. Lot of work. Was I wrong to do this? Or overkill? Should I of just put on the top box as you do? Secondly, do you put you're frame feeders in the bottom or top box? Does it matter? I saw many of your videos had the feeder in the bottom but then some in the top in the most recent videos.
I think consolidating the brood in the bottom box with the Apiguard directly above it should work fine. We often put a division board feeder in a single story colony and leave it there after adding a second story until the bees are filling up that box, especially in cooler weather. Once there are plenty of bees up there we'll move it up. It works best to have it near the cluster of bees.
Hi Mr Binnie. Would you be against oxalic vaporization x 3 5 days this time of year as heat is avg 97 deg and 88 at 9 in morning and horrible humidity with much bearding?
Good info. All the information presented was available way over 5 years ago for anyone who had their ear to the ground research wise and their face in the hive testing out incoming theories as they rolled out. The biggest question is " what's the next big thing* to help save our behinds. agree that rims or spacers are a pain in the ass that are a necessary evil. man I hate them but they do serve their place 100%0disagree with your admonition that conjunctive use of Thymol and OA simultaneously brings about adverse affects. All has to do with placement of each when doing so. Been using both together for decades. nothing is perfect but the one /2 punch keeps them numbers down. more worried about mites that a fried hive or two.
Great video and good information. Glad you posted the interactions. How many hives would you say you lose over winter with these relatively low mite numbers?
Question about amitraz Hi Bob. I'm sure you've been treated with Amitraz at least once. I am confused about what my protective clothing should consist of - glasses, gas mask. In your practice, what protective clothing have you used? Thank you in advance.
When we did used products like that we generally had someone using nitrile gloves to handle things. We often do the same with the organics too. When vaporizing we also use respirator masks.
As ALWAYS .............................................. As EXPECTED another great learning video. So much to comprehend and of course retain. One question is where we live the night time temperatures are in the seventies and eighties. The daytime and well over one hundred degrees. So is it still safe and applying Apiguard? We have Saskatraz Queens and are happy with them. Then we are also novice beekeepers in our fourth year if trying to keep bees! THANK YOU for all the informative and educational fun videos!
Hey Bob..I'm in N. California where it's the middle of August and I need to start treating with Apiguard, but my honey supers were late getting filled up and 1/4 of them are filled but not capped. Temps are in the low ninety's and I need to start treating. What do you recommend I do?
In your area the humidity may be low enough that your uncapped honey may already be dry enough. You could check it with a refractometer in the field. If not dry enough perhaps use or create a drying room to finish the job so you can get it off now. Personally, I'm all about getting the mites down early enough to raise healthy winter bees.
Bob, if the colonies were broodless, what would be acceptable mite levels? i just tested my broodles colonies and getting mite counts like: 37, 17, 10, 3 (per 300 bees)
Bob, I’m a newbee keeper, only my third year. My mentor is anti-mite treatment. I tried apiguard last year and it seemed to help. I had pulled honey off the hive first then treated. This year I am leaving some honey on the hive. I only extracted ten frames total. Due to crazy conditions my one hive is now three hives…actually saw my hive swarm and was able to catch it an hour later. What luck!! I want to treat all three now but just thinking about what honey is still left. I’m guessing it won’t matter for overwintering, but I’m not sure about next spring and what residue or left over affect it will have for next year if I extract more honey then. Maybe this makes sense…I’m under the thought that sticking my head in the sand and ignoring the problem is not going to be the solution…only a deadout colony. I appreciate all your videos and sharing of knowledge. I try to get over your way and visit the store when I can. Always great folks there and great service.
If next year you extract honey that is in the colony now your choices are limited to oxalic acid or formic acid. Synthetic chemical strips like Apivar should not be used. If you're referring to next years honey then the residue will be minimal by then and using these treatments now is thought to be OK.
greetings from czech republic Bob, found you few weeks ago and my head is full of ideas about what to do next spring (Introducing double screenboards, making my own hives and scaling up) . Currently on 40 beehives, want to double next year. Already changed some of my chores. I´d like to ask you about late summer/ autumn varroa migration, which is very common were i live. Do you happen to have that ? If so, do you treat again after certain period of time ? Basically we have one of the most beekeeper/population ratio and its normal to have 10-20 beekeepers with up to 500 hives in total in the flying distance of my bee location. So its very common for my stronger hives to rob others weak ones and bring home sometimes thousands of mites. Worry is that this year, the spring was unusually warm and the bees are 2-3 weeks forward of what they ussually are and bees are already collapsing to some. If you have any sort of experience regarding varroa migration to your hives , how would you try and mitigate it or simply how would you treat differently, I would much appriciate it. Thanks again, you´re enourmous help
Yes, I have had that problem and have lost entire yards because of it. That is one reason why it is recommended to check mite populations often and also well after the treatments are done.
Another good video. Since you have so many hives, do you do a mite check on each one or do you do random checks and if so, what percentage of hives do you check?. Thanks
Hi Bob, I’m experimenting with extended release OA, specifically the strips as prepared by Chuck Cook in FL. Would you anticipate any issues if OA vaporization was also used while the OA strips are present?
Sorry for not understanding. Do you add shim on top of double deep with treatment on top? With apiguard. Thanks Bob. Love your teachings and you approach to the art of beekeeping
Im working towards wintering Three high hives our issue is getting hives big enough for a july and part of august honey flow . Its a flash in the pan then done . The dark queens are very hard to see and when marked very easy and color coding is extremely helpful in management . I drizzled my hives (late fall early winter ) and very early in (spring winter ). I think the spring drizzle was hard on the bees 🐝
Bob, I'm a Golf Course Superintendent for the past 27 years and a Certified Bee Keeper for the past 3 with my hives being on the golf course that I manage in Georgia. I love and appreciate your videos. Keep up the good work my friend. I just have a question. You stated in this video that the active ingredient Prochloraz is used on golf course turf. I personally have never heard of this active ingredient nor could I find a product that contained it that was labeled for turf. Do you have a common name product that you could share with me? PS The nucs I got from you are performing exceptionally and the golfing community quizzes me all the time about honey bees if they are not asking me about our Monarch plots or Birdie, our Roughcoat Border Collie. Thanks in advance.
Here is a quote from Wikipedia. Prochloraz, brand name Sportak, is an imidazole fungicide that was introduced in 1978 and is widely used in Europe, Australia, Asia, and South America within gardening and agriculture to control the growth of fungi. It is not registered for use in the United States.
Excellent and timely- Question: if you normally use 50 grams for a double deep (Vita lists 50 grams per 10 frames of bees), how much do you use for a double deep in warmer weather? Thank you for all the valuable information you provide.
I found this video right on point. I used Apigaurd this go around. I had 2 hives test high and a few test low. I treated all the hives. I did half dosage double deeps. Then did about a 33g second round 1 week later. Again did another round on a couple hives. It did shut them down from brood rearing and did cause one hive to swarm. I haven't retested them yet. If I still have high mite level on a hive should I retreat or give them a break and allow them to cycle some brood?
We could have different conditions but here I would keep with it until the mites were very low. When we do that it pays off later when they bounce back.
Bob, I started my Apiguard treatments last week and thought my timing was fairly good.I am in Ellijay. I arrived this evening and all of a sudden the golden rod is in full bloom and I am in the middle of a strong nectar flow. Should I cointiune my treatments? My mite numbers were fairly high so they need these treatments bery badly. Just worried about the product getting in the honey. I was not likely going to harvest any fall honey but I'm scared to even taste it on my hive tool now. And I planted 7 acres of SunFlowers that have already started to bloom early. Lesson learned. I guess I need to start my treatments 2-3 weeks earlier next year. Any suggestions? Continue to treat during the flow? How bad does it contaminate the honey and for how long?
You mentioned that you weren't likely to harvest honey this fall. Perhaps best to let the bees keep that honey and get the mite numbers down before winter bees are being raised. If your mite numbers are high at this point in time every day you wait will have a notable impact (in my opinion).
Great video! Very thorough! I’m using the old wand style vaporizer. It takes forever to treat my 6 colonies, but it’ll have to do for now. Should 5 treatments 5 days apart be good?
Hi Bob, once again an excellent video. Question: What are your thoughts on placing the Apiguard on the top bars rather than using the pieces of cardboard? The Vita Europe folks recommended this for colonies that tend to propolize the Apiguard.
Hi Bob thanks for video. I have a question about using OA in summer and again in early winter as last treatment. I am hobi beekeper and do not change queen every year. Do you think that using OA twice in very short period can affect and "damage" gueen?
I invested in 300 lb of bulk bees and 100 Gardner queens to start 3 new yards. I noticed two days ago they were dragging out the greasy bees the black bees that is sign of vsh so it's getting spread around like it or not maybe he's adding it in.. Im using alot mechanical treatments. And chemicals when needed.. mechanical really cleans them up . Must get them supper spreader mites chemicals miss . Need to find a market for drone larva next summer. Those F1 vp queens were shaking zeros in October treatment free. They never shut down first winter I had bees starve out . I see it in the spring at times never during winter
Hi Bob, sorry if the following has been discussed already. You were describing the dose in grams (weight) though the unit of measure in a syringe is cc’s (volume). Have you confirmed 1 g = 1 cc? Since you’re using it this way I assume it’s close enough.
The man is a walking encyclopedia in beekeeping and management.
Mr. Binnie, thank ya much for sharing!
i have gone back and watched this video 10 times since it came out. great info
Morning Bob! Low numbers makes you feel good. Mite numbers are like a golf score, the lower the better.
I've never played golf but I like that analogy.
Great video, full of information. Looking forward to part 2!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Bob. For Aussie beekeepers this is an excellent video showing how beekeepers live with and manage varroa mites. Your explanations of techniques and the decision making process is educational and of great value.
Really informative video, nobody I follow is making and taking this level of effort to share information. Thank you Sir!
I've only kept bees now going on 5 years. First 2 were disastrous and now I'm near 100% sustainable thanks to you. I've been practicing brood break periods, where there isn't any new brood being laid to interrupt the mite cycle. Right after the Basswood flow is done, I crush the queens, let the bees backfill some of the vacated comb and then when the new queen is successfully raised, off the the races we go for winter.
And like you mentioned, about 20% need that second try to make there queen.
Glad you and your crew enjoy making these videos. I learn a lot and look forward to them! They are informative and relaxing.
Thanks!
Our goldenrod has been in bloom here in taft,tn for two weeks now. Usually its September. Very different season, everything bloomed 2 to 4+ weeks early. Not sure what the Lord is doing but I've learned to trust him:) thanks for taking time to keep us up to date, God bless
Single most honest video i have ever watched.
Good morning Bob, well done , thank you for your hard work and keeping everyone on the cutting edge on our quest to become better beekeepers, Antoine, Henderson county beekeepers association 😊🐝👍
Thank you.
Good day Bob. See, a couple years back when that doctor, researcher with a strange accent (who gave me my name) with black finger nails, together with that other doctor were talking bad about oxalic-glycerin strips.. I told you all that they were doing something wrong because by then I used it in combination with brood breaks around 5 years and it always worked fantastic for me.
Actually together with 40 years of selection it became my only treatment for the entire year. And I finally after fighting varroa since 1977- 78 can say.. l don't have a problem with varroa anymore.
I'm glad you kept at it and find a way to make it work for you
Thank you so much for freely sharing your in depth knowledge and research. Your channel is the most beneficial of all of them that I follow!
I absolutely love your management ! Bees are looking good Bob. What a great video this is. Thank you sir
Mr. Binnie, you nailed it. I am a small bee keeper but have had as many as 70 hives. The tracheal mites are what started me trying to find bees that didn't need treated. After a lot of searching I started with Buckfast bees because they were already pretty immune to Acarine and went from there. The thing i found out was to stop bringing in more bees unless they were already showing signs of immunity. I haven't treated for varroa in twenty years. They aren't mite proof. Out of twenty hives i found 3 mites last year and none this year, so they are holding their own. I am sure that out of all the bees you have you already have some that are already very mite resistant. I love your videos. I am no business man but really like raising bees.
Good morning from Germany. Thank you so much for putting out so much information again and again. Long time viewer, learned more from you than from anybody else. Much appreciated!
I got to meet Jesse last Friday. I really enjoyed chatting with him. I was a little intimidated actually. He is very knowledgeable!
He's a pussy cat at heart.👍
Thank you for making this video. I'm a first year beekeeper choosing to use apigaurd for my mite treatment on the advice i read in bee culture magazine. It's comforting and educational to see you and so many other beekeepers i follow using apigaurd. Thank you for all your amazing videos. Take care King Bob.
Thank you for another fine video. Even as a master beekeeper I still learn something from all of your videos.
Great video Bob! My plan is once I can sustain my operation and no longer supplementing it with funds from my main source of income my plan is to do the same with gentics. I really appreciate the time you put into them. I have learned so much over the last 5 years! Thanks so much!
Very well done. Liked seeing Jesse’s brake down at the end! Y’all rock!
Good morning Bob I am in Polk county FL started in March bought 5 nucs caught 3 and made some spilts lose 5 to wax moths and mites using aprivar, thanks for being my mentor sir I am hoping to have about 20 for next spring just turn 68 retiring in December again thanks to you and the team
Good morning Bob and BRHC. Thanks for the vid.
Excellent Video Bob. I always value and look forward to your videos every Sunday morning. Today's however is what i would consider the video of the year to watch and even recommended it to my bee club.
Bob,
Your so right about Apiguard shutting down the Queen. It has virtually stopped all of them from laying eggs. I assume that has to be part of the plan for devlpong this product, forcing a brood break without removing or killing the queen. This has to be a major contributing factor to it's efficacy.
I believe you are right.
As always you’ve produced an outstanding video. Bravo for showing off the rubbish bag to properly remove hive debris. So many commercial Bks I know aren’t as professional. Quick thought on who eats out the oxalic pads and who doesn’t, that also speaks to your point re Queen genetics: eaten pads = hygienic Qn; full pads = non hygienic Qn. I’d wager your high count mite washes were from hives with untouched pads. Thanks again for sharing your wealth or experience and information.
You could be right. I have a friend that swears that colonies that remove foreign debris of any kind are more hygienic and will have less mites. Sounds like an easy scientific experiment for somebody. Let me know your results. 😉
Syleena being all efficient there, what a hand! You do good crew Sir!
Hola un genio gracias por los vídeos que lindo es ver cómo trabaja su hija 👏👏👏👏👏👍🐝🐝🐝🇦🇷
Great video Bob. I’ll say it again “Love your work environment!” Keep up the great work guys.
When I started beekeeping I mentored with a commercial guy. And he told me something that has proven to work. “A dead mite can’t be resistant” I’ve been treating my bees to keep mite as low as possible ever since.
I'm going to borrow (steal) that quote.👍
One of your best videos to date. Thanks
Morning Bob, i had to come looking for your video this morning. 🙄You would think Notifications would be easy for UA-cam.
Thanks for talking about your experiences with the OA strips, and showing us your counts on them. It is great to see new(old) organic options to the synthetics that are safe(r) and effective, while used in a treatment retinue. Yep, Clean Bees is Happy, Healthy Bees I learnt that from you. Blessed Days Bob and Crew...,
Thanks and good morning!
This was a great informative video thanks.
This video was one of my favorites, along with the video on with the one about feeding sugar as opposed to HFCS, and the video talking about honeycomb and the toxins that persist in it.
We are looking forward to you coming to St. Louis and speaking in February @ the Eastern Missouri Beekeepers Association conference. Thanks for all you do in the beekeeping world.
-Tom Sostman
Thank you. I'm looking forward to it and hope to present more on this subject.
Excellent video Bob!
Good morning
Glad to see another Informative videos
Good morning Bob, it is a pleasure to see your interesting videos, I really learn a lot from them. Very clear and illustrative. Greetings and blessings to your entire work team, you can see that they are coordinated and have a wonderful atmosphere. Greetings from Monterrey Mexico.
Thank you and greetings.
Wonderful sharing my brother nuff blessing
Apologies if this is repeat question but what is a reasonable amount of time between apiguaurd application and oxalic acid treatments?
A week would do in my opinion.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you.
Thanks for the educational videos!
Bob this was really great oa extended release is the way to go thank u so much for sharing this. What did you use as the mextrax for the oa. I hope u and your crew and wonderful family has a very Blessed week. I am also looking forward the Gregs talk.
Thanks Bob for sharing
I’m going to try the OA pads next season like you did here. I’ve used Apigaurd the last 3 years. It definitely knocks them back but. Just believe the loads get too high in MS to get all zeros at the end of treatment. I still get 3-4 per 300 even after 3 40g treatments.
May wait a month and do OA vape into the Fall. Then winter solstice.
Maybe the pads will keep the loads lower for me and I can follow with Apigaurd
As always Bob great video. One word about extended relase oxalic pads. I would like to add that bees with higher clearning behavior(genetics) have lower mites count. Bees in this hives damage sponges more and spread oxalic all over the hive. Can't say that I'm 100% sure about it but I see a big diffrence in this type of colonies. All the best from Europe.
Thank you. I wondered if colonies showing this type of behavior would have more varroa sensitive hygiene traits.
Hello Bob . That was funny I was in the middle of writing to ask you if you still are trying any of the other mite wash fluids an there popped up Jesse so I just started over . I have been keeping bees a long time also BUT BUT like you said every day week month an year is always different. With that said by YOU an other bee keepers helping us remember thing we forget from time to time or just things that are NEW AN UPDATED in bee keeping because yes it always changes like you said an that may be for the good or the bad. So never think you are boring us or over talking about any subject. The respect that I an all the other bee keepers have for you and the work an time you put into spreading your years of hits an misses to help all of us be a better bee keepers . Hope you had the best season ever. Thanks
Thank you. 👍
In 2021, I treated my apiary with Formic Pro in early September and then Hop Guard 3 in November when the hive was broodless. 5 out of 5 colonies made it through winter.
In 2022, I treated my apiary with Formic Pro in early September and then Hop Guard 3 in November when the hive was broodless. 6 out of 7 colonies made it through winter.
In 2023, (I thought it would be better to mix up my mite treatment method and try to treat earlier) I treated my apiary with Apiguard in August. I treated with 2 half doses per label instructions when temperatures are high. By Thanksgiving, 8 of 10 colonies were dead. The remaining 2 colonies died midwinter Looked like colony collapse disorder. When the hives looked fine one week and then 2-3 weeks later, almost all of the bees left the hive and did not return.
My coworker, who is also a beekeeper, treated all 26 of their colonies with Apiguard. All 26 colonies died. These colonies were in a different area (different county) than my apiary.
Sorry to hear of your trouble. There can be a learning curve with Apiguard. We have great results with it.
Good morning Bob,
As usual another great video and information.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Maggie Valley Honey Bees
Maggie Valley! Not far away.
would love to hear how the golden west do for you. Mine here in VA did great on the UBeeO test. will do Harbos on them this fall
Good one!Thanks for posting .
Golden rod is blooming here in pa about two weeks early extreme drought this year has things weird good luck bob
That's early, good luck.
Yessir "Ask me how I know" haha I scorched a few rhis year. Singles using 25 to 30 grams 3x. Made 7 outta 45 fly the coup. Glad I decided to do only 2 yards
I´m guessing Jhon is the one that shakes the cocktails at the company barbecues :). Always great information, thank you!
Great video. Very informative
Very informative info while having Sunday morning coffee. It’s interesting how the multitude of beekeepers pitch in and share there knowledge. Very helpful content. Thank you.
thank you Bob!
You just saved me from a screw up of epic proportions 😅 I intended to attempt thymol treatment this year along with oxalic acid vapour treatment and oxalic slow release pads so I'm really glad you commented on that😂 we live in a thyme area and I'm not sure how much of the thymol from the nectar gathering gets into the hive and if it has any effect on mite counts but I wanted to experiment with using it in hives to see what results I get. Guess I'll have to rethink that 😬😅 great video 👍👋 thanks from central Otago southern New Zealand 👋😃
Thanks. I would be interested to know the answer to thymol in the nectar question.
Thanks Bob we need lots of education down here in Australia now that Varroa has arrived. I think it’s disappointing that we will be unable to use Oxalic Acid or Vapour as they are not approved. Anyway I don’t know enough about treatment so videos such as this will be helpful along with education by the authorities in Australia. 👍🐝
What about formic acid
@@poseidonam no I don’t think that is ok either
Hi, Bob! Here’s a cautionary tale about using Apiguard in hot climates.
Being in East central NC, it’s regularly over 90. Our flow ends in late May or early June. Wanting to get a mite treatment in ASAP, I treated with half doses (25ml) of Apiguard on double deeps in July. The bees were fine. But some colonies just absconded and ran away. Most stayed but abandoned the second box. With no bees policing a box this time of year, the top boxes got slimed by beetles and wax moths moved in as well. All in the span of a week. Now, I’m left picking up the pieces of missing colonies and destroyed comb. And I still need to treat for mites!
I had the exact same thing happen the first time I used it. What a mess.
Bob, visiting after a long break from videos. Could you tell us why you have what look to be escape boards on top of your colonies? Thanks.
We had just removed the sourwood supers the day before. Rain was coming that day and we left the escapes behind on several yards while trying to hurry.
Brilliant video Bob!
A shut down this time of year would be devastating in my nests. I need this brood nest to slingshot into making an August winter nest
I would agree. We live on two different planets when it comes to beekeeping!
@@bobbinnie9872
Once again, brilliant video. This synergy presentation is what I want you to speak about at our conference
Thanks!
Lots of good information there, thanks for posting this vid. Can you say how you are confident shaking a frame of bees and scooping a half cup without having found the queen? How do you know she didn't go into the alcohol wash and get killed?
Thanks
We're pretty good at spotting queens but of course it is possible.
Thanks for the explanations and encouragement to check and keep after the mites! I’m wondering if I use formic soon if they will backfill the brood nest where the fresh eggs should be
If there is a flow on they could because brood rearing will temporarily slow down.
Thanks for yet another great video. What are your thoughts on Randy Oliver's extended release thymol treatments?
A thought for a winter video - You must know a ton of ways to split hives. I assume, some you use and some you don't. It would be interesting to understand when and why you (or a hobby beekeeper) would use one vs another.
Thanks
Sorry, I don't know enough about extended thymol to say.
Bob,
Two quick questions. The apigaurd instructions say to put the pads above the brood chamber which is typically the bottom box, they say to put the pads in-between the 1st and 2nd box even if brood is also in the top box. So, I consolidated my upper brood into the bottom chamber and then placed the pads between the two boxes. Lot of work. Was I wrong to do this? Or overkill? Should I of just put on the top box as you do?
Secondly, do you put you're frame feeders in the bottom or top box? Does it matter? I saw many of your videos had the feeder in the bottom but then some in the top in the most recent videos.
I think consolidating the brood in the bottom box with the Apiguard directly above it should work fine.
We often put a division board feeder in a single story colony and leave it there after adding a second story until the bees are filling up that box, especially in cooler weather. Once there are plenty of bees up there we'll move it up. It works best to have it near the cluster of bees.
It's amazing that you can get these low mites number without removing the green comb 😮 Great job.
Hi Mr Binnie. Would you be against oxalic vaporization x 3 5 days this time of year as heat is avg 97 deg and 88 at 9 in morning and horrible humidity with much bearding?
That could be a maintenance treatment until it cools down. You may need to do it before sun up.
Good info.
All the information presented was available way over 5 years ago for anyone who had their ear to the ground research wise and their face in the hive testing out incoming theories as they rolled out.
The biggest question is " what's the next big thing* to help save our behinds.
agree that rims or spacers are a pain in the ass that are a necessary evil. man I hate them but they do serve their place
100%0disagree with your admonition that conjunctive use of Thymol and OA simultaneously brings about adverse affects.
All has to do with placement of each when doing so. Been using both together for decades. nothing is perfect but the one /2 punch keeps them numbers down. more worried about mites that a fried hive or two.
Great video and good information. Glad you posted the interactions. How many hives would you say you lose over winter with these relatively low mite numbers?
Unless something out of the ordinary happens we'll be under 10%.
Should we keep the entrance reducer’s out? For better ventilation during thymol treatment? How about in a six frame nuc?
I think it would depend on the temperature. Generally speaking I would leave the reducer out unless it's cool and probably the same for the nuc.
Thank as always fòr great information
Hey bob what are you using for pads with OA?
Swedish dishcloth.
Question about amitraz
Hi Bob. I'm sure you've been treated with Amitraz at least once. I am confused about what my protective clothing should consist of - glasses, gas mask. In your practice, what protective clothing have you used? Thank you in advance.
When we did used products like that we generally had someone using nitrile gloves to handle things. We often do the same with the organics too. When vaporizing we also use respirator masks.
As ALWAYS .............................................. As EXPECTED another great learning video. So much to comprehend and of course retain. One question is where we live the night time temperatures are in the seventies and eighties. The daytime and well over one hundred degrees. So is it still safe and applying Apiguard? We have Saskatraz Queens and are happy with them. Then we are also novice beekeepers in our fourth year if trying to keep bees! THANK YOU for all the informative and educational fun videos!
That's pretty high temperatures for Apiguard and could be a problem. I would wait for cooler weather. Thanks.
Hey Bob..I'm in N. California where it's the middle of August and I need to start treating with Apiguard, but my honey supers were late getting filled up and 1/4 of them are filled but not capped. Temps are in the low ninety's and I need to start treating. What do you recommend I do?
In your area the humidity may be low enough that your uncapped honey may already be dry enough. You could check it with a refractometer in the field. If not dry enough perhaps use or create a drying room to finish the job so you can get it off now. Personally, I'm all about getting the mites down early enough to raise healthy winter bees.
Hello Bob!
How many times do you repeat the treatment with 20g and 30g?
For singles 2 or 3 times with 30 grams, 10 days apart, unless we're still showing mites in our check. Occasionally we may go more.
Hi! Im trying out 25g 2 weeks in a row. According to the Apiguard site when temps are high.
How high are these temps you speak of, waiting to treat mine when temps are down to the high 80s.
@@kellymoore4517 90F+
Great video!
Bob, if the colonies were broodless, what would be acceptable mite levels?
i just tested my broodles colonies and getting mite counts like: 37, 17, 10, 3 (per 300 bees)
Bob, I’m a newbee keeper, only my third year. My mentor is anti-mite treatment. I tried apiguard last year and it seemed to help. I had pulled honey off the hive first then treated. This year I am leaving some honey on the hive. I only extracted ten frames total. Due to crazy conditions my one hive is now three hives…actually saw my hive swarm and was able to catch it an hour later. What luck!! I want to treat all three now but just thinking about what honey is still left. I’m guessing it won’t matter for overwintering, but I’m not sure about next spring and what residue or left over affect it will have for next year if I extract more honey then. Maybe this makes sense…I’m under the thought that sticking my head in the sand and ignoring the problem is not going to be the solution…only a deadout colony. I appreciate all your videos and sharing of knowledge. I try to get over your way and visit the store when I can. Always great folks there and great service.
If next year you extract honey that is in the colony now your choices are limited to oxalic acid or formic acid. Synthetic chemical strips like Apivar should not be used. If you're referring to next years honey then the residue will be minimal by then and using these treatments now is thought to be OK.
Thank you
greetings from czech republic Bob, found you few weeks ago and my head is full of ideas about what to do next spring (Introducing double screenboards, making my own hives and scaling up) . Currently on 40 beehives, want to double next year. Already changed some of my chores.
I´d like to ask you about late summer/ autumn varroa migration, which is very common were i live. Do you happen to have that ? If so, do you treat again after certain period of time ? Basically we have one of the most beekeeper/population ratio and its normal to have 10-20 beekeepers with up to 500 hives in total in the flying distance of my bee location. So its very common for my stronger hives to rob others weak ones and bring home sometimes thousands of mites. Worry is that this year, the spring was unusually warm and the bees are 2-3 weeks forward of what they ussually are and bees are already collapsing to some. If you have any sort of experience regarding varroa migration to your hives , how would you try and mitigate it or simply how would you treat differently, I would much appriciate it. Thanks again, you´re enourmous help
Yes, I have had that problem and have lost entire yards because of it. That is one reason why it is recommended to check mite populations often and also well after the treatments are done.
Another good video. Since you have so many hives, do you do a mite check on each one or do you do random checks and if so, what percentage of hives do you check?. Thanks
We have been only checking four to six in a yard but next year I plan to check more and treat less in some yards in search of mite resistance.
Hi Bob, I’m experimenting with extended release OA, specifically the strips as prepared by Chuck Cook in FL. Would you anticipate any issues if OA vaporization was also used while the OA strips are present?
I've not done that but it doesn't seem like it would cause any issues.
Sorry for not understanding. Do you add shim on top of double deep with treatment on top? With apiguard. Thanks Bob. Love your teachings and you approach to the art of beekeeping
Yes, as long as there are enough bees in the top box. If all the bees are in the bottom box we would put it in the middle.
Good Morning Bob !
Good morning sir!
Im working towards wintering Three high hives our issue is getting hives big enough for a july and part of august honey flow .
Its a flash in the pan then done .
The dark queens are very hard to see and when marked very easy and color coding is extremely helpful in management .
I drizzled my hives (late fall early winter ) and very early in (spring winter ).
I think the spring drizzle was hard on the bees 🐝
Although many say it's fine my limited experience with drizzle wasn't great. 👍
Bob,
I'm a Golf Course Superintendent for the past 27 years and a Certified Bee Keeper for the past 3 with my hives being on the golf course that I manage in Georgia. I love and appreciate your videos. Keep up the good work my friend. I just have a question. You stated in this video that the active ingredient Prochloraz is used on golf course turf. I personally have never heard of this active ingredient nor could I find a product that contained it that was labeled for turf. Do you have a common name product that you could share with me? PS The nucs I got from you are performing exceptionally and the golfing community quizzes me all the time about honey bees if they are not asking me about our Monarch plots or Birdie, our Roughcoat Border Collie. Thanks in advance.
Here is a quote from Wikipedia. Prochloraz, brand name Sportak, is an imidazole fungicide that was introduced in 1978 and is widely used in Europe, Australia, Asia, and South America within gardening and agriculture to control the growth of fungi. It is not registered for use in the United States.
Bob, with all the heat, temps with heat index over 105 in July and August, is apiguard at half dose safe and effective??
Not safe at those temps. We like to be in the low 90s or lower with a half dose.
Excellent and timely- Question: if you normally use 50 grams for a double deep (Vita lists 50 grams per 10 frames of bees), how much do you use for a double deep in warmer weather? Thank you for all the valuable information you provide.
25 to 30 grams depending on temperature.
I found this video right on point. I used Apigaurd this go around. I had 2 hives test high and a few test low. I treated all the hives. I did half dosage double deeps. Then did about a 33g second round 1 week later. Again did another round on a couple hives. It did shut them down from brood rearing and did cause one hive to swarm. I haven't retested them yet. If I still have high mite level on a hive should I retreat or give them a break and allow them to cycle some brood?
We could have different conditions but here I would keep with it until the mites were very low. When we do that it pays off later when they bounce back.
@@bobbinnie9872Thank you Bob
Bob,
I started my Apiguard treatments last week and thought my timing was fairly good.I am in Ellijay. I arrived this evening and all of a sudden the golden rod is in full bloom and I am in the middle of a strong nectar flow. Should I cointiune my treatments? My mite numbers were fairly high so they need these treatments bery badly. Just worried about the product getting in the honey. I was not likely going to harvest any fall honey but I'm scared to even taste it on my hive tool now. And I planted 7 acres of SunFlowers that have already started to bloom early. Lesson learned. I guess I need to start my treatments 2-3 weeks earlier next year. Any suggestions? Continue to treat during the flow? How bad does it contaminate the honey and for how long?
You mentioned that you weren't likely to harvest honey this fall. Perhaps best to let the bees keep that honey and get the mite numbers down before winter bees are being raised. If your mite numbers are high at this point in time every day you wait will have a notable impact (in my opinion).
Great video! Very thorough! I’m using the old wand style vaporizer. It takes forever to treat my 6 colonies, but it’ll have to do for now. Should 5 treatments 5 days apart be good?
That would be good as a maintenance treatment but it will take more to dramatically bring numbers down.
@@bobbinnie9872 ok. Thanks!
Hi Bob, once again an excellent video.
Question: What are your thoughts on placing the Apiguard on the top bars rather than using the pieces of cardboard? The Vita Europe folks recommended this for colonies that tend to propolize the Apiguard.
We have tried that and it can work but I have seen it drip between the frames.
Have you tried UBEEO on any of your hives, or done any Harbo Assays to test for hygienic behavior?
I have not done that but I may in the future.
Hi Bob thanks for video. I have a question about using OA in summer and again in early winter as last treatment. I am hobi beekeper and do not change queen every year. Do you think that using OA twice in very short period can affect and "damage" gueen?
I have not seen any evidence that it would.
@@bobbinnie9872 thanks for your answer.
What would be your maximum temp for using a 25 gr. treatment of Apiguard on double deeps, i am around the Lula Ga. area.
90 t0 92°f. which I see you will be at or over tomorrow. You might consider waiting until Monday which is forecasted to be a couple of degrees cooler.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks Bob, I'll hold off a few days.
If temps are high ( mid 90's during days). Would it be wise to treat with OC acid weekly for 3 or 4 weeks, til temps come down enough to use thymovar
I think that would be a good choice.
Hi Bob, great informative video as always!
I do have a question, is the apiguard a fumigation or do the bees carry it throughout the colony?
Thanks. It is actually both.
I invested in 300 lb of bulk bees and 100 Gardner queens to start 3 new yards. I noticed two days ago they were dragging out the greasy bees the black bees that is sign of vsh so it's getting spread around like it or not maybe he's adding it in.. Im using alot mechanical treatments. And chemicals when needed.. mechanical really cleans them up . Must get them supper spreader mites chemicals miss . Need to find a market for drone larva next summer. Those F1 vp queens were shaking zeros in October treatment free. They never shut down first winter I had bees starve out . I see it in the spring at times never during winter
Hi Bob, sorry if the following has been discussed already. You were describing the dose in grams (weight) though the unit of measure in a syringe is cc’s (volume). Have you confirmed 1 g = 1 cc? Since you’re using it this way I assume it’s close enough.
Yes, it's fairly close.
Thank you. The question is how long to wait before applying OV after thymol? a couple of days or a couple of weeks?
We like to wait a few days after there is no sign of the thymol. There would still be some residue present at that point but not much.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on Hop Guard please.
I don't have any experience with the latest version but the first two weren't very good.