Testing VW/Audi N280 AC Compressor Valve
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- In this video I show how I went about testing the ac system on this Audi. It turns out there were no parts to replace, just some basic testing and visual inspections along with repair confirmations.
Another great video, Sadel. You saved your customer a decent amount of money by checking the pins on that valve. Hopefully the tech that installed the connector onto that valve ends up watching this video and learns from it!
yeah I wasn't expecting it to be this basic, thank you for watching
Really good video Sadel! very important to know how a system works and always performed a visual inspection! I thought you would used the math channel to get the resistance of the solenoid! We've learned a lot from you brother! Very well explained!
Thank you Keka , glad you enjoyed and learned !
Thank a lot for this. You explained it really well and rather than just replace the valve you gave a proper root cause.
I’m assuming you need to remove the refrigerant gas before you removed the solenoid. I’ve got a 2015 tt and believe this uses the same valve with no cooling. Thanks man.
yes you will have to recover the system
nice explanation and diagnosis of system.
Question is how did pins get bent? And why someone was disconnecting or someone on purpose bent pins in order to to tell customer that he needs new compressors?
Excellent video!!!
This was truly excellent. It's nice to watch a qualified mechanic. I am debugging the AC on a 2015 Golf. I don't have a scope but with the valve disconnected, the leads from the AC module read 4.5v. Your scope read 12v because the scope can measure PWM. Does 4.5 on a meter sound about right? I am waiting for an empty connector to arrive and then I will ohm test the valve. Comments welcome.
That might be a good reading, but also most meters I believe have a function to measure duty, maybe see if yours can
Another quality content👏👏
Thank you Joel
Great video and my vw jt. I did change my valve it's now working
Glad it helped
Great video, and very well explained, new subscriber here. thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the support and thank you for watching
Great work 👍
Great vid. Gonna be replacing the valve on my VW Passat compressor. What’s the easiest way to evacuate the lines without that machine?
I was wondering why the scan tool showed 0.66A even though the N280 valve was disconnected because of the bent pins. Then I saw at the end of the video that top N280 value is for the ‘called’ current and the second line is the actual current. So when you started the actual current was zero. When you fixed the pins, the Actual current was 0.66A. So, this could have been diagnosed and fixed without evacuating the gas.
It looks like since compressors with solenoid vale always working summer and winter and only the flow of gas is controlled not the rotation and rotation never stops they break down and get damaged more than the compressors with clutch why they make this type of compressors.
I just have the valve replaced, but the AC still doesn't work. Now I'm wondering if they bent the pins?😕
2013 VW Passat. Do I have to replace the compressor it self?
sometimes its best to do so
Great Video and good honest fault finding - Had a question regarding the voltage to the regulating valve on the compressor that you fixed - is it a steady 12V when it is turned on or is it a more complex pulse signal? ie the valve is not just open and closed it oscillates with a pulse signal?
I believe it is a variable voltage dependent on its demand. I don't think it is PWM, though I could be wrong..
I have bought those on ebay and had pretty good luck. I believe there are two types of valves dependant on compressor that the car has. Sanden is the ones I have encountered on 2010-14 VW jettas.
It is a DC square wave from 0-12V, that will change in frequency, based on duty cycle. So when observing, the square wave will get closer together or further apart, toggling from basically 0-12V. The other wire should be a known good ground. Test resistance first, then voltage drop the circuit, to verify it can carry a load, i.e.-work. You can check Hz-duty cycle/frequency with most meters, if you do not have a scope.
My vane ac compressor (middle bolt)not rotating when turn on ac, it may locked up and couldn't turn by hand tools when take off from the car
Hello, I have almost the same issue with my audi a4 b9. The A/C starts to work only after error reset and than works for a very short time. The VCDS shows "65655 - Regulation Valve for A/C Compressor B11AE 15 (009) - open or short to plus confirmed" I checked the voltage is suppling to the valve. The valve coil continuity is closed and the resistance is around 12 ohms. I am going to replace the valve. Please, advice is there an non-return valve before regulation valve or I have to evacuate the refrigerant before take out. Thanks in advance!
I'm pretty sure you have to evacuate the system
Great video I'm jealous of your tech lol
Can the solenoid be ok (good voltage, amps, resistance and good click when 12v applied) but the mechanical stuff be faulty?
yes it is possible, but almost like an injector waveform sometimes you are able to see the internal solenoid movement via a "hump" in the trace either voltage or amperage. That can let you know if it is mechanically moving
does removing this part releases all the freon out of the system? i have a 2013 vw beetle
yes I believe you will need to recover the freon first
Should the gas be degassed from the circuit while the valve is being replaced, or can it be replaced without degassing?
Thank you
Yes it does need to be recovered and refilled I believe
Nice work
Thank you for watching!
Good stuff
Thanks!
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