Trying something a bit different on this video - I added tool tip infographics for people who may be watching a restoration video for the first time ever or wondering what I'm using at a particular moment. Keep it going forward? Waste of my time? Let me know in the comments!
It's of course up to you but if you put the simple infographic during the video you may follow up with additional info in the description. Perhaps for those things you graphic-ed that you think might be a less common-knowledge tool/product. Maybe something needing more detail/specificity because you prefer a specific item brand or specific formulation. Thanks for the videos and interaction with your viewership.👍💯
@@user-br3ou2cs9o thanks for the feedback!! I'm leaning towards sticking to infographics for things like chemicals used, sandpaper grits, and more oddball tools/items not as easily identifiable as a screwdriver 😎
Thanks for the feedback, Michele! The spring reset was genuinely terrifying - so much energy in that thing! I wore a full face shield and multiple pairs of gloves in case anything decided to let loose. Fortunately with a little planning it went about as well as it could! 😊
I was pleased to see my last comment on your video and I’m so glad you went through with the restoration. It came out great and looks right at home now. I know the cord was originally through the flex sleeve but I think it was smart to keep the wires out of the flexible metal sleeve! As for the infographics, you’re not wasting your time. I don’t think it takes away from the video and what may be obvious to some, could be helpful to others. Watched twice and didn’t skip any ads hope it helps you with the UA-cam algorithm.
It was extremely interesting to watch the restoration of the lamp. The fluoroplast tape is not very suitable for tight thread fastening, since fluoroplast is used to eliminate friction and is a very slippery plastic. I really liked how you replaced the steel rod. In such lamps, the cable in the flexible pipe often overheated, which led to insulation damage and electric shock. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for watching and the feedback! The PTFE tape is definitely more of a placeholder - I need to just buy a new set screw for a tap size that I actually have and then it'll be perfect!
Great work! One suggestion... Since you use the gooseneck for mounting & positioning only, why not keep your eyes open for a longer gooseneck in the future? I'm sure that once you start looking at used or junked items, you'll see them everywhere. You might even accidentally find a gooseneck that could accommodate the larger cord diameter. Life is like that... 😊
Thanks! Before I started doing my own restorations I spent months watching other restoration videos and it always bugged me that most of the time there was no explanation to what they were using, so I became the change I wanted to see in the world 🌍🌈
When peining over pins you can do it by using two pieces of 12mm rod. One piece at least 50mm longer than the width of your hand, the other can be 50mm with ground flats to be held in the vice (vise). By drilling 3mm holes to the depth of about 2mm this will give you the chance to rivet over both ends of the pin slowly rounding over the ends by moving the one you're holding. Then turn over the part/s to do the other end of the pin. This will give you a rounded head to both ends. I hope this helps, it will give you a more professional finish to your work.
I did first try to find a cord that would fit through that neck, but the problem I ran into was I couldn't find a nice cord that was small enough gauge to fit inside without having to strip off the outer jacket down to individual wires, and I was concerned that individual wires probably wouldn't be great because the neck is a little pinch-y (for lack of a better term) and could wear down any indidual wires' insulation with repeated flexing. Seems like my grandpa found that to be the case too when he drilled the side hole in the socket!
That was a lovely restoration. I thought the little tool tips were a neat addition - I hope you keep using them! How does the hammered paint work, anyway? Is it something about the way it dries that produces the textured finish?
Thanks for the feedback! Hammered finish paints generally work by having a small amount of silicone in them along with suspended metallic flakes (commonly mica). When you spray a nice heavy coat the silicone droplets expand out on surface contact and trap mica flakes with it, producing the droplet-esque hammered look!
Привет! Хорошая работа, но мне кажется, что электрокабель должен подводиться к патрону через центральное отверстие, проходить внутри гибкой стойки и выходить в районе прищепки, там и отверстия есть. Удачи!
Great observation and I agree, running the cord through the center would look a bit cleaner. That neck has a really small diameter and I couldn't find a new cord that was robust (so it wouldn't wear out from flexing inside the neck) yet small enough gauge to fit in there comfortably.
@@CatalystRestorations Now everything is clear. Apparently, this problem was also encountered in the previous repair of this beautiful lamp, because earlier the hole for the cable was made in the body of the electric cartridge a little artisanally, this can be seen in the video during dismantling. Nevertheless, a solution was found, it works, and that's good!
Thank you! I did first try to find a cord that would fit through that neck, but the problem I ran into was I couldn't find a nice cord that was small enough gauge to fit inside without having to strip off the outer jacket down to individual wires, and I was concerned that individual wires probably wouldn't be great because the neck is a little pinch-y (for lack of a better term) and could wear down any indidual wires' insulation with repeated flexing. Seems like my grandpa found that to be the case too when he drilled the side hole in the socket!
Thanks for the explanation - I fully understand. That's the trouble trying to source spares from the company 80 years later (Ha! Ha!) Looking forward to your next video.
Beautifully done, as always. My problem is that I've got a similar drill press to restore and I will have trouble reaching the high watermark you've established.
I played around with that to start with, but it didn't seem like a good long term solution. The flexible neck is'pinch-y' (for lack of a better term) and I was worried that over time lots of repeated bending would cause the wire casings to rub/degrade and cause a shock hazard. I just couldn't find a new cord that was small enough (it's such a small diameter) yet robust enough.
If I could have I would have! The gooseneck has an extremely small diameter that could pretty much only accommodate thin, individual wires and I didn't feel comfortable doing that.
Thanks! Thank you! I did first try to find a cord that would fit through that neck, but the problem I ran into was I couldn't find a nice cord that was small enough gauge to fit inside without having to strip off the outer jacket down to individual wires, and I was concerned that individual wires probably wouldn't be great because the neck is a little pinch-y (for lack of a better term) and could wear down any indidual wires' insulation with repeated flexing. Seems like my grandpa found that to be the case too when he drilled the side hole in the socket!
One step ahead of you Jozsef - I've got some foam strips on order that will be perfect for it! 😉 Wanted to get the video out so I went without them here, but I did see traces of adhesive on the clips when I disassembled it so I assume someone had this idea back in the day as well!
@@CatalystRestorations That's funny. I think fixing the old thing was a good way to go but we should give a nod to the Michigan fellow who makes the repro originals. They're really a work of art and clearly worth every penny. It is a lot of pennies though. 🙂
@@user-br3ou2cs9o it's a seller on eBay by the name of pd2bob who makes flawless reproductions of the Delta 882 lamp that was an accessory you could buy for this drill press.
Awesome! One question: I've got an old weathercock - you know, a figure of a cock that rotates because of the wind, and a cross with letters that show north, sough, east, west. The letters are made of thin tin metal and hollow (empty inside), and they are quite rusty and fragile. Also they have some holes and cracks along the edges. I wanted to squeeze/pour something like epoxy inside those letters to make them sturdy and kinda solid, so afrerwards I could put some metal filler on them, sand and paint them, drill some holes and fix them back on the weathercock. What do you think would be the best way to fix the letters? I understand the epoxy might not be the best option. Thank you very much!
Sounds like a job for JB Weld steel reinforced epoxy! You can just buy it in the tubes at any hardware store or Amazon, mix it according to the directions, spread it over/inside the holes/cracks/etc. with a spatula, let it dry for day. Then sand it flat/shape it with sandpaper and paint over it however you want and it'll be plenty strong for what it's being used for!
Nice restoration as always. My vote is for a waste of your time. You are not "Dad how do I", you are a restoration channel. Most people shouldn't have to be told what basic tools are, and there are better channels to specifically learn that if they want. On that note, informing things that cant be told on sight (the brand of paint stripper was nice), random goop, colored liquid, the grit of polish you were using (white :)) did add some value. Also if you use a tool or process that cant be bought at your local hardware store, it could be helpful. (Just my opinion, your and your experience may vary).
![Antique Armature Testing Growler [Restoration]](/img/n.gif)
Trying something a bit different on this video - I added tool tip infographics for people who may be watching a restoration video for the first time ever or wondering what I'm using at a particular moment. Keep it going forward? Waste of my time? Let me know in the comments!
It's of course up to you but if you put the simple infographic during the video you may follow up with additional info in the description. Perhaps for those things you graphic-ed that you think might be a less common-knowledge tool/product. Maybe something needing more detail/specificity because you prefer a specific item brand or specific formulation.
Thanks for the videos and interaction with your viewership.👍💯
@@user-br3ou2cs9o thanks for the feedback!! I'm leaning towards sticking to infographics for things like chemicals used, sandpaper grits, and more oddball tools/items not as easily identifiable as a screwdriver 😎
@@CatalystRestorations
Yes. Like the infographic with "Citristrip" was a helpful example.
I like it!
@@jdrukman thanks for the feedback!!
I think tool tip infographics are good for everyone. I'm glad you decided to restore the light, and just as glad I didn't have to reset that spring!
Thanks for the feedback, Michele! The spring reset was genuinely terrifying - so much energy in that thing! I wore a full face shield and multiple pairs of gloves in case anything decided to let loose. Fortunately with a little planning it went about as well as it could! 😊
I was pleased to see my last comment on your video and I’m so glad you went through with the restoration. It came out great and looks right at home now.
I know the cord was originally through the flex sleeve but I think it was smart to keep the wires out of the flexible metal sleeve!
As for the infographics, you’re not wasting your time. I don’t think it takes away from the video and what may be obvious to some, could be helpful to others.
Watched twice and didn’t skip any ads hope it helps you with the UA-cam algorithm.
Thank you so much for suggesting this restoration, Jay! You're the best! And thanks for the feedback on the infographics too!
Excellent work. You did your grandfather proud. Oh, and the infographics are a nice touch. 👍
Thanks!! I'm getting lots of positive feedback so I'm going to keep them!
I like that Hammered paint finish👍😎
I like using the textured paints by Rust-Oleum and Krylon for several types of projects.
Completely agree! Dries well, looks great, and durable.
It was extremely interesting to watch the restoration of the lamp. The fluoroplast tape is not very suitable for tight thread fastening, since fluoroplast is used to eliminate friction and is a very slippery plastic. I really liked how you replaced the steel rod. In such lamps, the cable in the flexible pipe often overheated, which led to insulation damage and electric shock. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for watching and the feedback! The PTFE tape is definitely more of a placeholder - I need to just buy a new set screw for a tap size that I actually have and then it'll be perfect!
Really great job - loved it. Final drill in total looks wonderful. Thank you for the enjoyment of watching.
Thank you for watching, Brian! Glad you enjoyed it.
So great. Thanks for all the info you pop up as you go- incredibly helpful! Great sense of humor too.
You're welcome and thanks for the feedback! Thanks for watching!
Keep paying it fwd with the descriptions. It's very cool of you to do that!
Will do!!!!
Great work! One suggestion... Since you use the gooseneck for mounting & positioning only, why not keep your eyes open for a longer gooseneck in the future? I'm sure that once you start looking at used or junked items, you'll see them everywhere. You might even accidentally find a gooseneck that could accommodate the larger cord diameter. Life is like that... 😊
Awesome suggestion!! I'll keep an eye out for that!!
That looked fun to restore. Nice job!
It was fun! Thanks!
Very good restoration 👍👍👍Thank you for sharing. Be safe🇨🇦
Thanks for watching! Be safe as well! 🇺🇸
Sweet! I REALLY the little info box with the information about what you use! It might be self explanatory but i see it as a nice touch 😃♥️
Thanks! Before I started doing my own restorations I spent months watching other restoration videos and it always bugged me that most of the time there was no explanation to what they were using, so I became the change I wanted to see in the world 🌍🌈
Nice job it finishes off the drill press just right
Thanks Dave!!
Wonderful restoration, as always. How do you not have more subs?!
Thanks! People are afraid of commitments 😝
When peining over pins you can do it by using two pieces of 12mm rod. One piece at least 50mm longer than the width of your hand, the other can be 50mm with ground flats to be held in the vice (vise). By drilling 3mm holes to the depth of about 2mm this will give you the chance to rivet over both ends of the pin slowly rounding over the ends by moving the one you're holding. Then turn over the part/s to do the other end of the pin. This will give you a rounded head to both ends. I hope this helps, it will give you a more professional finish to your work.
Thanks for the tip, Ken! I'll look into this for the next project!
I think the wires should be inside this flexible metal tube.
I did first try to find a cord that would fit through that neck, but the problem I ran into was I couldn't find a nice cord that was small enough gauge to fit inside without having to strip off the outer jacket down to individual wires, and I was concerned that individual wires probably wouldn't be great because the neck is a little pinch-y (for lack of a better term) and could wear down any indidual wires' insulation with repeated flexing. Seems like my grandpa found that to be the case too when he drilled the side hole in the socket!
That was a lovely restoration. I thought the little tool tips were a neat addition - I hope you keep using them!
How does the hammered paint work, anyway? Is it something about the way it dries that produces the textured finish?
Thanks for the feedback!
Hammered finish paints generally work by having a small amount of silicone in them along with suspended metallic flakes (commonly mica). When you spray a nice heavy coat the silicone droplets expand out on surface contact and trap mica flakes with it, producing the droplet-esque hammered look!
Brilliant video! Great little funny message at the very end XD
You're the first person to mention it! Thanks for sticking around to the end!!
Привет!
Хорошая работа, но мне кажется, что электрокабель должен подводиться к патрону через центральное отверстие, проходить внутри гибкой стойки и выходить в районе прищепки, там и отверстия есть.
Удачи!
Great observation and I agree, running the cord through the center would look a bit cleaner. That neck has a really small diameter and I couldn't find a new cord that was robust (so it wouldn't wear out from flexing inside the neck) yet small enough gauge to fit in there comfortably.
@@CatalystRestorations Now everything is clear. Apparently, this problem was also encountered in the previous repair of this beautiful lamp, because earlier the hole for the cable was made in the body of the electric cartridge a little artisanally, this can be seen in the video during dismantling. Nevertheless, a solution was found, it works, and that's good!
Excellent.
Thank you!
Super.😊
Thanks!!
I really enjoyed it all.
Just one question though, could the cable have been threaded through the flexible tube?
Keep turning out these videos.
Thank you!
I did first try to find a cord that would fit through that neck, but the problem I ran into was I couldn't find a nice cord that was small enough gauge to fit inside without having to strip off the outer jacket down to individual wires, and I was concerned that individual wires probably wouldn't be great because the neck is a little pinch-y (for lack of a better term) and could wear down any indidual wires' insulation with repeated flexing. Seems like my grandpa found that to be the case too when he drilled the side hole in the socket!
Thanks for the explanation - I fully understand.
That's the trouble trying to source spares from the company 80 years later (Ha! Ha!)
Looking forward to your next video.
Beautifully done, as always. My problem is that I've got a similar drill press to restore and I will have trouble reaching the high watermark you've established.
Thanks Bryson! Everyone has their own levels of talent that are best for them!
could you have run the cord through flexible support ?
I played around with that to start with, but it didn't seem like a good long term solution. The flexible neck is'pinch-y' (for lack of a better term) and I was worried that over time lots of repeated bending would cause the wire casings to rub/degrade and cause a shock hazard. I just couldn't find a new cord that was small enough (it's such a small diameter) yet robust enough.
because I Like your videos thats why I am still watching and no I am no troll
HAULT 10:59 cord should be going down center of metal flexible conduit
If I could have I would have! The gooseneck has an extremely small diameter that could pretty much only accommodate thin, individual wires and I didn't feel comfortable doing that.
@@CatalystRestorations you could strip the cloth of of that it would fit trust me but it is done now over with let's move on. to newer videos.
Nice job ! Don’t you think the cord should go into the flex ???
Thanks!
Thank you!
I did first try to find a cord that would fit through that neck, but the problem I ran into was I couldn't find a nice cord that was small enough gauge to fit inside without having to strip off the outer jacket down to individual wires, and I was concerned that individual wires probably wouldn't be great because the neck is a little pinch-y (for lack of a better term) and could wear down any indidual wires' insulation with repeated flexing. Seems like my grandpa found that to be the case too when he drilled the side hole in the socket!
It's about time LOL from viewer DING!
I would put something on the inside of the clamp to avoid marring the paint on the drill press. It's OCD, I admit it.
One step ahead of you Jozsef - I've got some foam strips on order that will be perfect for it! 😉 Wanted to get the video out so I went without them here, but I did see traces of adhesive on the clips when I disassembled it so I assume someone had this idea back in the day as well!
@@CatalystRestorations That's funny. I think fixing the old thing was a good way to go but we should give a nod to the Michigan fellow who makes the repro originals. They're really a work of art and clearly worth every penny. It is a lot of pennies though. 🙂
@@jozsefizsak they are seriously magnificent
@@jozsefizsak
Is that a YT Channel that has the guy from Michigan making "repro originals"?
@@user-br3ou2cs9o it's a seller on eBay by the name of pd2bob who makes flawless reproductions of the Delta 882 lamp that was an accessory you could buy for this drill press.
Awesome! One question: I've got an old weathercock - you know, a figure of a cock that rotates because of the wind, and a cross with letters that show north, sough, east, west. The letters are made of thin tin metal and hollow (empty inside), and they are quite rusty and fragile. Also they have some holes and cracks along the edges. I wanted to squeeze/pour something like epoxy inside those letters to make them sturdy and kinda solid, so afrerwards I could put some metal filler on them, sand and paint them, drill some holes and fix them back on the weathercock. What do you think would be the best way to fix the letters? I understand the epoxy might not be the best option. Thank you very much!
Sounds like a job for JB Weld steel reinforced epoxy! You can just buy it in the tubes at any hardware store or Amazon, mix it according to the directions, spread it over/inside the holes/cracks/etc. with a spatula, let it dry for day. Then sand it flat/shape it with sandpaper and paint over it however you want and it'll be plenty strong for what it's being used for!
@@CatalystRestorations Thank you very much for your advice! Would it be easier to judge the damage if I send you some photos?
@@vsemprivet feel free to send me some pics! Catalystrestorations@gmail.com
@@CatalystRestorations Fantastic, they are on the way to your mailbox )) Looking forward to your reply.
@@CatalystRestorations The letter is approx 10 cm long, and the metal is less than 1 mm in thickness and quite rusty and fragile
Nice restoration as always.
My vote is for a waste of your time. You are not "Dad how do I", you are a restoration channel. Most people shouldn't have to be told what basic tools are, and there are better channels to specifically learn that if they want. On that note, informing things that cant be told on sight (the brand of paint stripper was nice), random goop, colored liquid, the grit of polish you were using (white :)) did add some value. Also if you use a tool or process that cant be bought at your local hardware store, it could be helpful.
(Just my opinion, your and your experience may vary).
Really helpful feedback Charles! Thank you!
you know I saw it coming with that spring it caught the wire end but scream as I might you didn't hear me oh this is not live oh well
👍👏👍👏👍👏👍👏👍👏
😎👍