a useful video - some joker fitted an aftermarket security locking system to my van and disconnected all the door handles and completely messed up the central locking.. I have fixed the cab but still have problems with the rear and the side door
The horn sounding on Fords is the interesting bit. I have a Mercedes’ e class and the horn sounding is normal 🤔 How is anyone meant to be familiar with them all 🤨
For all having a similar problem: The Pins 2 and 10 are not connected to the motor, at least not on the plug in the video, maybe it refers to the plug that goes directly into the lock. I hooked up a lamp in the same matter on 2 and 10 and it lights up too but also the new lock didn't do anything. So i opened up the old lock and found the actual pins: Its 7 and 8! I connected it directly to 12V and then the motor starts turning. I assume the light you see when connecting to pin 2 and 10 is an impulse sent to check the state of one of the 4! limit switches inside the lock. For me it was a brocken cable inside the door. To check if the cables are alright someone can check the connection from pin 7 and 8 to the small grey plug that sits behind the right tail light. Hope someone can use this information!
I have this beeping problem with my tipper. Beeps when you lock it but all four doors do lock and it just shows the door open light on the dash. I know it's the door switch on the passenger side. I've been trying to find out which wires are for the door open switch as I was just going to cut one to get the light to go off just so it doesn't beep. No luck so far.
Hey Gang. My VM transit does the same thing and now this. I came out of training tonight, my van won’t unlock, I assume it’s a flat battery in the van. My issue is the mechanical key lock will not unlock the van still. Is there a jumper wire back feed or any remedies to try to get the van at least open to get it home to replace the battery ?. I assume the auxiliary (front) battery is flat and it’s possibly deadlocked. VM transit 2008 Manual, Locks are not that old, the key head is. Cheers
@@Ozzierob unfortunately if all of the keys and barrels are worn, (which is very common) the only way to jump start it is to shimmy the locks or break a window 😬😬
Indicators only flash if you double lock the van. Key recharges itself while van is running but won't work or charge if aux battery is gone. New battery. All good again. Drivers door can be opened with key.
Hello, I have a Ford car model 100T 350 year 2007 that it's center lock isn't working and the guy came and checked it's key but they buttery of the key is worrying but the center lock it doesn't work or match with remote control and the guy who came to check the key doesn't know what's the problem. How can I fix it?
It is more than likely the position sensor inside the door lock that has failed, this position sensor is part of the lock & you would need to verify before replacing 🤞🤞👍👍
In my case it turned out that there was corrosion in the connector behind the right rear light. Generally, everything was floating in water there when I opened it. After cleaning it improved and everything works from the remote.
our ford has 2 front doors and 1 rear and also 1 slide at the side. we have the same problem too. is it possible to understand which door is defective without using the computer / laptop?
Fords used to have a test mode for the doors. Open and close door 10 times and horn sounds, then open and close each door, if ok horn sounds, faulty one made no sound. Not sure if thats still an option.
Hello you might already know this by now because I see this video is a year old but your Transit key battery chargers when you put it in the ignition and of course that uses the connection from the staring emission Burrow.
Hey Steven, I don’t really understand the last part of your comment. But you are correct, the key battery does charge when in the ignition switch. But like any battery they have a life span too & fail after 10 years or so. Thank you so much for watching and commenting 🙏🙏🙏
Hi peter would you have any tips for diagnosing a central locking fault on a 2020 clio 5 car was bought as cat n repaired passenger front door was replaced. Just discovered the door won't lock Door showing as closed on live data regardless if door is open or closed) had a quick look and 5 pins on door lock all wires are white and i can't get a diagram anywhere . so not sure what i'm looking for a guess would be pins 1+2 door closed switch other 3 pins ground and 2 powers for lock and unlock? would the lock have 2 motors for lock and unlock? bsi under the glove box but there are so many white wires and another bsi under bonnet with loads of white wires . any advice would be greatly appreciated 👍
Hmmm. Isn’t it bloody stupid the way they are fitting same colour wires nowadays 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ Nothing on Autodata either. You thought process is probably correct, 2 for door position and 3 for door lock motor. I’m trying to join the dots in my head, if the door is always closed it should lock & unlock. Unless you have 2 issues. Did you look at live data for the other door, just for cross reference 🤔🤔 Also do a detailed inspection on the wires around the A pillar for damage & correct pin fitment. Would you be very unlucky for it to be anything other than the lock or door loom 🤷🏼♂️ Could the block connector on the lock itself be not on right 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks , I had another look wiring is all fine in the door harness/pillar connection seems i'm missing 2 power feeds for lock and unlock after testing on the drivers door problem is so many wires at the bsi and most are white . not sure if Renault would give any info at the parts department on wiring if not a wire tracker maybe best bet . Thanks again 🙏👍
@@johnbickle4654 while reading you comment a video I saw a year or so ago about a similar issue, I can remember who it was 😤 But it was one of the small pins in one of the block connectors had gotten bent when being disassembled or reassembled. It might just be worth unplugging some of the block connectors and examining in detail 🤞🤞🤞
Super handy video! Do you have the part name or number? I have the same issue and when I search I keep getting the lower rear passenger door lock part 🤦🏼♀️
The part no. is 1552112 . If you just do a Google search you should be able to find and see if it is the part you need quite easy . Hopefully this will help 🤞👍
Hi, I recently buy a Ford Transit and only the rear door won’t open with the central locking. When I close with the mechanism of the rear door fully the central locking work and close all the doors without made the beep. Because sometimes it decide to beep also if it is not totally close from the inside. I tried to change the lock of the rear door but nothing changed. I think there is a problem with the wiring or I don’t know. What you suggest?
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you, at first I wanna see if there is some signal as you with a mechanic with a scanner. Is possible to see the signal without the lock working or I must buy first a brand new lock?
Just had my butt kicked on a lock did bulb test it was reverse politary lit up bulb fitted new lock still didn't lock signal return wire was broken in door flex was on a fiat ducato
This trade due to so many different design types can kick our butts quite often, but the positive is that you actually found the problem & that is a lesson that you will never forget 😬 well done Daniel 👏👏👍
Yeah true I always say you learn more from your mistakes and test yourself say if you just mot and serviced cars for 20 years to a guy who's done 10 years of diagnostic work
Looks like one of the easier locks to change. I'm I right in saying the electrics reverse the polarity of the wires in order to unlock/ lock the doors and therefore a bulb will show both directions easily
No Chris, not on this system. If you pause on the wiring diagram bit you can see what I mean. From memory I think it’s pin 10 & 2 to lock, 10 & 4 to unlock. There are so many different designs that a wiring diagram is necessity. But they do normally swop polarity. Good man Chris 😉👍
The double flash indicates its dead locked (after a double press of the lock button) you can also head the dead locks click in, For my van I would want to know they are working as make it much harder to break into
Great Video! I have a very similar model and thought of having the same issues, but unfortunatelly the new look did not do the job by now, but I keep searching... Anyhow, 2 questions: 1) Where do you have the wiring diagramms from? I think its an electrical problem since the aftermarket trailor bar was fitted 2) Is it possible with your diagnose tool to teach new Keys? Wondering if only Ford can help me here or if e.g. someone with Delphi or any other diagnose tool may also has a chance...
I use Autodata for my wiring diagrams. I have never reprogrammed new keys, only because I’m not familiar with the process. There are lots of aftermarket key shops around just ‘ Google replacement car keys near you ‘. Are you thinking that the key is at fault??
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks, I will give it a try! The only key with a remote ended in the washing machine, so I am quite sure its the key😅 I already have a replacement at home and a friend works in an auto repair shop, but they are not a ford dealer, so no IDS (Ford diagnose software) and was wondering if it worked with another diagnostic software too. So if you have not tried yet, we will give it a try.
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a useful video - some joker fitted an aftermarket security locking system to my van and disconnected all the door handles and completely messed up the central locking.. I have fixed the cab but still have problems with the rear and the side door
Great video nice demonstration on fault finding the central locking
The horn sounding on Fords is the interesting bit. I have a Mercedes’ e class and the horn sounding is normal 🤔
How is anyone meant to be familiar with them all 🤨
@Kennedy’s garage That's the Joy's of been a mechanic can't wait for your next video
For all having a similar problem:
The Pins 2 and 10 are not connected to the motor, at least not on the plug in the video, maybe it refers to the plug that goes directly into the lock. I hooked up a lamp in the same matter on 2 and 10 and it lights up too but also the new lock didn't do anything. So i opened up the old lock and found the actual pins: Its 7 and 8! I connected it directly to 12V and then the motor starts turning. I assume the light you see when connecting to pin 2 and 10 is an impulse sent to check the state of one of the 4! limit switches inside the lock.
For me it was a brocken cable inside the door. To check if the cables are alright someone can check the connection from pin 7 and 8 to the small grey plug that sits behind the right tail light. Hope someone can use this information!
The "beeps" a miss lock is the Ford technical term Peter 👍🏻👍🏻
Wow, very good Peter. Do they normally flash hazards like other cars??
Thank you, helpful, cheers.
I have this beeping problem with my tipper. Beeps when you lock it but all four doors do lock and it just shows the door open light on the dash. I know it's the door switch on the passenger side. I've been trying to find out which wires are for the door open switch as I was just going to cut one to get the light to go off just so it doesn't beep. No luck so far.
It can be quite hard to pinpoint which wires are which without good Autodata or Alldata information. Quite possibly easier to just replace the lock 😬😬
Mine was doing this and now has locked us out
Hey Gang. My VM transit does the same thing and now this. I came out of training tonight, my van won’t unlock, I assume it’s a flat battery in the van. My issue is the mechanical key lock will not unlock the van still. Is there a jumper wire back feed or any remedies to try to get the van at least open to get it home to replace the battery ?. I assume the auxiliary (front) battery is flat and it’s possibly deadlocked. VM transit 2008 Manual, Locks are not that old, the key head is. Cheers
@@Ozzierob unfortunately if all of the keys and barrels are worn, (which is very common)
the only way to jump start it is to shimmy the locks or break a window 😬😬
Indicators only flash if you double lock the van. Key recharges itself while van is running but won't work or charge if aux battery is gone. New battery. All good again. Drivers door can be opened with key.
Had same issue with drivers lock but kept twisting and eventually worked. Probably lack of use
Hello, I have a Ford car model 100T 350 year 2007 that it's center lock isn't working and the guy came and checked it's key but they buttery of the key is worrying but the center lock it doesn't work or match with remote control and the guy who came to check the key doesn't know what's the problem. How can I fix it?
So the remote central locking works but just one of the doors doesn’t lock ???
Is that correct 🤔
Can you able to tell me on sliding door how to fix ?
I had the same problem??
I change all mechanism but still the same ??
It is more than likely the position sensor inside the door lock that has failed, this position sensor is part of the lock & you would need to verify before replacing 🤞🤞👍👍
In my case it turned out that there was corrosion in the connector behind the right rear light. Generally, everything was floating in water there when I opened it. After cleaning it improved and everything works from the remote.
Thank u very much for the informations
Your welcome & hopefully it helped you David 🤞🤞👍
our ford has 2 front doors and 1 rear and also 1 slide at the side. we have the same problem too. is it possible to understand which door is defective without using the computer / laptop?
Fords used to have a test mode for the doors. Open and close door 10 times and horn sounds, then open and close each door, if ok horn sounds, faulty one made no sound. Not sure if thats still an option.
Interesting, it does sound like something that Ford would do 🤔🤔
I must check it out 👍👍
Hello you might already know this by now because I see this video is a year old but your Transit key battery chargers when you put it in the ignition and of course that uses the connection from the staring emission Burrow.
Hey Steven, I don’t really understand the last part of your comment.
But you are correct, the key battery does charge when in the ignition switch. But like any battery they have a life span too & fail after 10 years or so. Thank you so much for watching and commenting 🙏🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 hello sorry about that yes I think it's meant to say your key battery gets charged when you are using the vehicle.
@@stevenwilcox3061 😉👍👍👍
Hi peter would you have any tips for diagnosing a central locking fault on a 2020 clio 5 car was bought as cat n repaired passenger front door was replaced. Just discovered the door won't lock
Door showing as closed on live data regardless if door is open or closed) had a quick look and 5 pins on door lock all wires are white and i can't get a diagram anywhere .
so not sure what i'm looking for a guess would be pins 1+2 door closed switch other 3 pins ground and 2 powers for lock and unlock? would the lock have 2 motors for lock and unlock? bsi under the glove box but there are so many white wires
and another bsi under bonnet with loads of white wires . any advice would be greatly appreciated 👍
Hmmm. Isn’t it bloody stupid the way they are fitting same colour wires nowadays 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Nothing on Autodata either.
You thought process is probably correct, 2 for door position and 3 for door lock motor.
I’m trying to join the dots in my head, if the door is always closed it should lock & unlock. Unless you have 2 issues. Did you look at live data for the other door, just for cross reference 🤔🤔
Also do a detailed inspection on the wires around the A pillar for damage & correct pin fitment.
Would you be very unlucky for it to be anything other than the lock or door loom 🤷🏼♂️
Could the block connector on the lock itself be not on right 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks , I had another look wiring is all fine in the door harness/pillar connection seems i'm missing 2 power feeds for lock and unlock after testing on the drivers door problem is so many wires at the bsi and most are white . not sure if Renault would give any info at the parts department on wiring if not a wire tracker maybe best bet . Thanks again 🙏👍
@@johnbickle4654 while reading you comment a video I saw a year or so ago about a similar issue, I can remember who it was 😤
But it was one of the small pins in one of the block connectors had gotten bent when being disassembled or reassembled. It might just be worth unplugging some of the block connectors and examining in detail 🤞🤞🤞
Spent a while finding this very fault a few years ago..catch was £200 if I recall .
Well done James, it seems to be quite a common problem according to the comments 🙏🙏👍
Super handy video! Do you have the part name or number? I have the same issue and when I search I keep getting the lower rear passenger door lock part 🤦🏼♀️
The part no. is 1552112 . If you just do a Google search you should be able to find and see if it is the part you need quite easy . Hopefully this will help 🤞👍
I have the same problem but with the side door , any advice please?
I can look it mentally but not with the key
Check our this short video , you might have a similar problem 🤔
ua-cam.com/video/ZNPmgd83s0E/v-deo.html
Hi, I recently buy a Ford Transit and only the rear door won’t open with the central locking.
When I close with the mechanism of the rear door fully the central locking work and close all the doors without made the beep. Because sometimes it decide to beep also if it is not totally close from the inside. I tried to change the lock of the rear door but nothing changed. I think there is a problem with the wiring or I don’t know. What you suggest?
Was the lock you used new ???
If so you most likely have a broken wire somewhere in the line 😩😩
@@kennedysgarage3281
nope, because the old lock have decide to block itsel. With the actual one i can open the backdoor only in the inside
do you think is possible to do myself to rewire the lock?
@@mekka2000 so the lock you used was 2nd hand ???
If so, it has most likely failed too. They do fail very commonly
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you, at first I wanna see if there is some signal as you with a mechanic with a scanner. Is possible to see the signal without the lock working or I must buy first a brand new lock?
I’m not sure this age of transit flash in locking mate. Not 100% on that. Good video, thanks
Sound Trevor 😉👍
Just had my butt kicked on a lock did bulb test it was reverse politary lit up bulb fitted new lock still didn't lock signal return wire was broken in door flex was on a fiat ducato
This trade due to so many different design types can kick our butts quite often, but the positive is that you actually found the problem & that is a lesson that you will never forget 😬 well done Daniel 👏👏👍
Yeah true I always say you learn more from your mistakes and test yourself say if you just mot and serviced cars for 20 years to a guy who's done 10 years of diagnostic work
Where yous based looking to get this done
Hey Matt, I am based in Waterford, Southern Ireland 🙂
And you ???
Looks like one of the easier locks to change. I'm I right in saying the electrics reverse the polarity of the wires in order to unlock/ lock the doors and therefore a bulb will show both directions easily
No Chris, not on this system. If you pause on the wiring diagram bit you can see what I mean. From memory I think it’s pin 10 & 2 to lock, 10 & 4 to unlock. There are so many different designs that a wiring diagram is necessity. But they do normally swop polarity. Good man Chris 😉👍
Thanks for this Video, i have the Same Problem.
No bother to you & well done mate 💪💪💪
The double flash indicates its dead locked (after a double press of the lock button) you can also head the dead locks click in, For my van I would want to know they are working as make it much harder to break into
Cheers Marcus 👍👍
If you push the lock button twice hazards flash
Very good, thank you 👍
Great Video! I have a very similar model and thought of having the same issues, but unfortunatelly the new look did not do the job by now, but I keep searching... Anyhow, 2 questions:
1) Where do you have the wiring diagramms from? I think its an electrical problem since the aftermarket trailor bar was fitted
2) Is it possible with your diagnose tool to teach new Keys? Wondering if only Ford can help me here or if e.g. someone with Delphi or any other diagnose tool may also has a chance...
I use Autodata for my wiring diagrams.
I have never reprogrammed new keys, only because I’m not familiar with the process. There are lots of aftermarket key shops around just ‘ Google replacement car keys near you ‘.
Are you thinking that the key is at fault??
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks, I will give it a try!
The only key with a remote ended in the washing machine, so I am quite sure its the key😅 I already have a replacement at home and a friend works in an auto repair shop, but they are not a ford dealer, so no IDS (Ford diagnose software) and was wondering if it worked with another diagnostic software too. So if you have not tried yet, we will give it a try.
@@danielkainz2144 I haven’t ever tried or needed to program keys. I also do not have ids ☹️
I m from Turkey, it helps me to much brother ty 🙏
Hello from Ireland & I’m glad it helped you out 😉👍👍👍
Ford's don't flash hazards on locking, only when opening 😉.
I didn’t know that, but handy for the next one. Thanks Adrian 😉👍
My Ford Transit flashed when i lock the door..But now since i have this beep dont flash anymore 🤝
@@CRD99 very interesting, so they are not all the same 🤔. Thank you 🙏
You have to hit the lock button 3 times to make the hazard lights flash 👍
Oooh very interesting Meat head 💪💪