Man I love your video. From Mississippi in the United States. I’m a southern man who loves British cars and your video is remarkable. Thank you for taking the time to produce it.
Thank for all the details on the procedure you are going through. I went through that just a while ago. I wanted new carbs and were looking at 1.600€ for a pair of carbs include 500€ core charge. I rebuilt mine myself. And they work way better before. Now I am still dealing with a misfire on one cylinder.
Thanks for your advise. It seems to be always the RHS of the carbs. I still suspect that I deal with the old distributer. I saw the comments on your other video and some pointed out to that too. Another friend from Germany who owned 3 had the same issues. The carbs are running better than before.
I've got a '70 Herald and a '72 Spitfire. Thank you so much for this video as I'm experiencing similar issues. I agree on the brake servo, my Herald has one and stops fantastic whereas you can tell the breaking in my Spitfire is from the 70's!
The best looking Spitty IMO. There should also be an earth-strap from the body to the motor, around the bell-housing area. Might be worth checking that is clean too.
I'm on the verge of selling an EV and getting a Spit (sold my GT6 in 2006). Love going against the grain! I've subscribed and find your vids great. Love your engine noises to describe the burbling. Really informative and taking me straight back to memories of the trials and tribulations of classic ownership! Thanks for your efforts and happy Spitting!
oh - and consider ditching the pancakes. I remember for the GT6 running better on standard filters. (even though its a different engine and running on Strombergs) :)
You may have all this sorted by now but...do consider the electric fuel pump add on. Use a switch so that you can cut it off. The problem is that modern fuels boil off at a much lower temp than the fuels back in the 70's. So what happens is your fuel evaporates from the lines, bowls etc after you drive it and shut down. So you try to start with no fuel in the carbs. So you turn on the electric pump, then go to start, once running cut the electric pump off you don't need it until you need to restart. Hope that helps.
This may be after the fact as you may well of got your temp issue sorted out. One other thing worth considering is that there is a voltage regulator that is designed to provide 10v to the fuel gauge and the temp gauge. Using nominally 12v fluctuating battery voltage would not give accurate readings on these gauges. If your temp and fuel gauges read low or fluctuate its a sure sign the regulator is on the blink. The regulators are of a very old design, little more than a bi-metal strip heating and cooling with load to provide somekind of smoothed voltage. I noticed in a previous video of yours that you were chasing a low fuel indication problem, along with the temp issue you are addressing it sounds like the voltage regulator might be at fault. There are newer solid state regulators available which are much more accurate and will give you nice steady readings on both gauges. They come in the same enclosure and physically look like the original units. The regulator is usually attached to one of the fixing posts of either speedo or rev counter. Easy to find on the electrical schematic to see how it's wired into the system and it's wire colours. Hope I'm not telling you something you already know. Good luck.
I had a 1974 spitfire, nice little car but horribly under powered for North America. Just restored a 1972 MGB with a high performance motor. This 1.8 l would have been perfect for the spitfire
@@BritSpit yep I’ve heard it’s awesome. Like you were saying it’s just a matter of finding one that fits. Other than it being for a Land Rover do you remember what model/year it usually comes from?
Hi. My ebay history shows it as 'remote brake booster servo land rover'. I paid £42 for mine but the cheapest i can see now is £71! Just check the measurement of the unit, so it'll fit on the firewall. As long as it's got a brake line in/out and it'll fit you should be good.
Its like drive a formula 1 car where pedal of brake its hard as hell😂 btw im thinking to get same car i found one for 3k with restored engine just need some paint.....
Man I love your video. From Mississippi in the United States. I’m a southern man who loves British cars and your video is remarkable. Thank you for taking the time to produce it.
Thank you for the kind words. Big fan of country music & hope to visit the south one day soon
Thank for all the details on the procedure you are going through. I went through that just a while ago. I wanted new carbs and were looking at 1.600€ for a pair of carbs include 500€ core charge. I rebuilt mine myself. And they work way better before. Now I am still dealing with a misfire on one cylinder.
Check my later video. I had the same on cylinder #2. It was too lean on that carb
Thanks for your advise. It seems to be always the RHS of the carbs. I still suspect that I deal with the old distributer. I saw the comments on your other video and some pointed out to that too. Another friend from Germany who owned 3 had the same issues. The carbs are running better than before.
@@reinhardtrippmacher8776 Thanks. Hope you manage to get it fixed.
I've got a '70 Herald and a '72 Spitfire. Thank you so much for this video as I'm experiencing similar issues. I agree on the brake servo, my Herald has one and stops fantastic whereas you can tell the breaking in my Spitfire is from the 70's!
You are now officially on a journey of learning and paying! Thank You for sharing your experience on the journey.
Thanks for watching Ole
The best looking Spitty IMO. There should also be an earth-strap from the body to the motor, around the bell-housing area. Might be worth checking that is clean too.
I'm on the verge of selling an EV and getting a Spit (sold my GT6 in 2006). Love going against the grain! I've subscribed and find your vids great. Love your engine noises to describe the burbling. Really informative and taking me straight back to memories of the trials and tribulations of classic ownership! Thanks for your efforts and happy Spitting!
oh - and consider ditching the pancakes. I remember for the GT6 running better on standard filters. (even though its a different engine and running on Strombergs) :)
You may have all this sorted by now but...do consider the electric fuel pump add on. Use a switch so that you can cut it off. The problem is that modern fuels boil off at a much lower temp than the fuels back in the 70's. So what happens is your fuel evaporates from the lines, bowls etc after you drive it and shut down. So you try to start with no fuel in the carbs. So you turn on the electric pump, then go to start, once running cut the electric pump off you don't need it until you need to restart. Hope that helps.
Hi I have a MK3 spitfire just a wonder what model of land rover was the brake servo from as there are so many thanks Kev Devon
My ebay history shows 'remote brake booster servo land rover'. No idea on model number I'm afraid. Moss sell the kit though if that's a help
This may be after the fact as you may well of got your temp issue sorted out. One other thing worth considering is that there is a voltage regulator that is designed to provide 10v to the fuel gauge and the temp gauge. Using nominally 12v fluctuating battery voltage would not give accurate readings on these gauges. If your temp and fuel gauges read low or fluctuate its a sure sign the regulator is on the blink. The regulators are of a very old design, little more than a bi-metal strip heating and cooling with load to provide somekind of smoothed voltage. I noticed in a previous video of yours that you were chasing a low fuel indication problem, along with the temp issue you are addressing it sounds like the voltage regulator might be at fault.
There are newer solid state regulators available which are much more accurate and will give you nice steady readings on both gauges. They come in the same enclosure and physically look like the original units.
The regulator is usually attached to one of the fixing posts of either speedo or rev counter. Easy to find on the electrical schematic to see how it's wired into the system and it's wire colours.
Hope I'm not telling you something you already know.
Good luck.
All sorted now :)
Yep don't forget with a classic, in the boot is a spare wheel, and a spare everything else ;)
Need to get a tyre on my spare. Keep forgetting....
Also noticed your engine sounds like then beach boys at 7.05 ?
I had a 1974 spitfire, nice little car but horribly under powered for North America. Just restored a 1972 MGB with a high performance motor. This 1.8 l would have been perfect for the spitfire
Which brake servo did you buy? I'd like to do the same on my car
Im pretty sure it was a generic remote servo, possibly for a land rover? It shouldnt matter, as long as it fits! Makes a noticeable difference too
@@BritSpit yep I’ve heard it’s awesome. Like you were saying it’s just a matter of finding one that fits. Other than it being for a Land Rover do you remember what model/year it usually comes from?
@@chaseincatsmy ebay history shows it as 'remote brake booster servo land rover'
@@BritSpit thanks! What did you do to create those custom brake lines to connect the master cylinder to the booster?
@@chaseincats just made up a new section of brake line, easy if you've got a flaring tool
Do you have a part number or any more info you can share about the brake servo?
Hi. My ebay history shows it as 'remote brake booster servo land rover'. I paid £42 for mine but the cheapest i can see now is £71! Just check the measurement of the unit, so it'll fit on the firewall. As long as it's got a brake line in/out and it'll fit you should be good.
Its like drive a formula 1 car where pedal of brake its hard as hell😂 btw im thinking to get same car i found one for 3k with restored engine just need some paint.....
You can't go wrong with a colour tune . Start of ritch the lean out just turning blue..
I think I've got it just right now. But i probably will pick up a colourtune anyway
please put a one way valve in the hose to the brake servo
High idle screw on the choke adjusted too tight
Those small block style electric fuel pumps are not very reliable, facet silver top is the way to go.
Please be careful.
Running a car with the garage doors closed can prove a real threat because of carbon monoxide in such situations