as a couple ppl mentioned an intake gasket leak at cyl 2. if you spray some gas into the cylinder and put the spark plug back in quickly and start it.... you will know for sure it;s a fuel problem. the distributor lobe could be a problem.... but it;s easy to check by measuring points gap at each lobe.... could it also be a blockage in the manifold tract from carb to inlet valve? a mini camera could help. from a left over rag to a mouse to a piece of something - who knows. last thought camshaft wear. the inlet valve not opening fully or enough to get correct fuel mixture into the cylinder. not enough to light up. a worm cam will still show normal compression, so you will have to check valve lift of cyl 2 both valves. if you have color tune maybe you can see the color of the explosion. it might be there's an explosion, but a very week one..... the color of explosion - if at all could lead further down the rabbit hole if any of the other suggestions have been exhausted. cheers,
It might be worth testing for an intake manifold gasket leak. For an external leak a little oil squirted above or below the # 2 intake manifold to head junction while the engine is running will blow smoke out the exhaust.
I'll have another look, thanks. It's a new set of carbs, manifold gasket & heatshield, but there could be a leak there. Why would it not pass the problem into cylinder #1 also though?
Periodical faults are the worst! Could it be a crack in the head? Just showing when the temperature gets up? Keep your spirits up and the videos comming👍
The problem could be due to leprechauns or evil spirits. Try contacting an exorcist. Or a wild guess: If the cam is worn so the valves on that cylinder dont open enough, - that would still show good comrpression, I assume, but would cause limited breathing. I have owned a jaguar and my daugther currently owns a Mini, both have had possession-like symptoms 🙂
I would try a new spark plug in the missing cylinder (gapped correctly) Plugs behave differently under compression. Is the alternator providing enough current to run the ignition system ( battery condition). Does your coil need a ballast resister or it may have a resister wire in the loom. When the ignition switch is turned to the cranking position the ballast resister or wire is bypassed and 12 volts is fed to the coil. Vacuum leak around the inlet manifold. David
Thanks for the ideas David. I've tried many plugs and all the other conditions you've suggested wouldnt manifest in one cylinder only. New dizzy should be here today!
@@BritSpit = i don't suspect a fireing order problem.... but if you check via timing light if cyl 2 is lighting 10 deg before its respecting tdc.... doens[t hurt to check.
@@BritSpit no I can't see that a cam lobe would be worn mate if that was the case if only one lobe was worn it would be down to damage and you would surely know about it, your problem im sure is from your distributor, I hope you get it sorted soon enough
Very interesting looking forward to the answer of the problem keep us posted
Great video, Best of luck finding your issue.
My two cents, pointing to the distributor shaft endplay!!!
as a couple ppl mentioned an intake gasket leak at cyl 2. if you spray some gas into the cylinder and put the spark plug back in quickly and start it.... you will know for sure it;s a fuel problem. the distributor lobe could be a problem.... but it;s easy to check by measuring points gap at each lobe.... could it also be a blockage in the manifold tract from carb to inlet valve? a mini camera could help. from a left over rag to a mouse to a piece of something - who knows. last thought camshaft wear. the inlet valve not opening fully or enough to get correct fuel mixture into the cylinder. not enough to light up. a worm cam will still show normal compression, so you will have to check valve lift of cyl 2 both valves. if you have color tune maybe you can see the color of the explosion. it might be there's an explosion, but a very week one..... the color of explosion - if at all could lead further down the rabbit hole if any of the other suggestions have been exhausted. cheers,
Thanks for the ideas Nick!
It might be worth testing for an intake manifold gasket leak. For an external leak a little oil squirted above or below the # 2 intake manifold to head junction while the engine is running will blow smoke out the exhaust.
I'll have another look, thanks. It's a new set of carbs, manifold gasket & heatshield, but there could be a leak there. Why would it not pass the problem into cylinder #1 also though?
@@BritSpit If the leak's at the head end rather than carb end of the manifold then it wouldn't affect #1 much if at all.
@@davehill7099 I'll take a look. Thanks!
Periodical faults are the worst! Could it be a crack in the head? Just showing when the temperature gets up? Keep your spirits up and the videos comming👍
Passed a compression test when warm! New dizzy arriving today hopefully so will rule that one out first
I would block off the vacuum line to your brake booster if you have a leak it would affect the cylinder 2 more than any other
Thanks! I'll take a look
The problem could be due to leprechauns or evil spirits. Try contacting an exorcist. Or a wild guess: If the cam is worn so the valves on that cylinder dont open enough, - that would still show good comrpression, I assume, but would cause limited breathing.
I have owned a jaguar and my daugther currently owns a Mini, both have had possession-like symptoms 🙂
Valves are opening & shutting properly. It does sometimes run on all 4 cylinders.... My money is on pixies!
I would try a new spark plug in the missing cylinder (gapped correctly) Plugs behave differently under compression. Is the alternator providing enough current to run the ignition system ( battery condition). Does your coil need a ballast resister or it may have a resister wire in the loom. When the ignition switch is turned to the cranking position the ballast resister or wire is bypassed and 12 volts is fed to the coil. Vacuum leak around the inlet manifold. David
Thanks for the ideas David. I've tried many plugs and all the other conditions you've suggested wouldnt manifest in one cylinder only. New dizzy should be here today!
Is the firing order correct, put number 1 piston to TDC on compressiobn stroke and see where the rotor is pointing..
Firing order is defo correct. Fires on #2 when it wants to. Order is 1 3 4 2
@@BritSpit = i don't suspect a fireing order problem.... but if you check via timing light if cyl 2 is lighting 10 deg before its respecting tdc.... doens[t hurt to check.
Dwell angle ? Worn distributor ?
Quite possibly a worn dizzy. I've got a new one on the way. I'm thinking a cam lobe could be worn
@@BritSpit no I can't see that a cam lobe would be worn mate if that was the case if only one lobe was worn it would be down to damage and you would surely know about it, your problem im sure is from your distributor, I hope you get it sorted soon enough
Switch to electronic ignition ?
She's running ok now :)
@@BritSpit don't change anything, I submitted this comment before I'd seen the next video. Looks great by the way.
* had to glue the rotor to the distributor shaft.
Don't think i said anything a gluing a rotor?