First time on your station. Nice video my Air handler is in the garage so no big deal to overflow, but it happened two times. It’s wired to the Yellow so when I test it I can’t tell when it breaks. I am going to change it so it breaks the Red and then when the Fan stops i’ll know it’s open. Also ordered a RED LED 1/4 inch, to hook across the float so the next time the drain clogs up and the float switch opens when I go out to my garage to check that RED LED Light will be lit. I am going to put that LED right next to the float switch.
@@joemc111 Would like to see a picture. I just reinstalled the float switch on my air handler and thought that was a good idea but wasn't sure how to make it happen. Update: My float switch is a 3 wire setup. 2-wires for N.C. and 1 wire for N.O. so should be able to wire a light in series to make it work.
First of all, thank you for the video. I am learning about the air conditioner system to do DIY around the house and came across a difficult one. It looks like float switch on my system attached to the R circuit, which took out power to the entire system (thermostat, furnace, and condenser unit). I cleaned the drain pan, but the float switch was not reset. I still don't have power and the thermostat is blank. I would appreciate it if you could tell me how to reset the float switch and restore power to the system. Note: I am referring to the AG1100 float switch.
Float switch should reset if you got the water out, or at least got enough out. Maybe some trash got it stuck open. Try to push the pull knob down if it is up? Maybe the switch went bad? Not sure from where I am sitting but you could undo the float switch wiring and do a continuity test to ensure it is closed. You might have another issue.
John, great video! I just had new furnace an a/c unit installed and want to add the second cutoff switch as you did on the pan since the contractor installed one just on the condensation pipe. One question - I'm using the same switch you did on the bottom pan. It has 3 wires. I understand how you connected 2 of the wires, but what do you do with the 3rd? Is it needed in this type of installation with this being the 2nd overflow switch? Many thanks for your video!
You don't have to use the 3rd wire, which should be labeled as a Normally Open if using that Aqua Guard. It is so you can wire in some type of alert so that it triggers you to know the float switch tripped. When the float switch opens the switch to break 24v power, it would close the switch to give the alarm at the same time. I only use the Normally Closed portion and keep it simple. You can just put a wire nut on it or one of the crimp on style if you have it just so the wire doesn't possibly touch anything and blow the fuse.
Not to common. The way i do it is hot side of 24v into one side of switch and then to the red wire(s) going to the thermostat/outdoor unit. Never hot side in and out to common...get a blown fuse or transformer that way!
True. But if you have a furnace for heat a lot of them use the roll out switches in the 'R' circuit all the time too. Heat and cool modes. I like breaking 'R' because it is a definite "you know something is wrong" way. Thanks for the comment.
Best explanation ever thanks!!!
I don't know about best ever! But it is mine...Thanks.
First time on your station. Nice video my Air handler is in the garage so no big deal to overflow, but it happened two times. It’s wired to the Yellow so when I test it I can’t tell when it breaks. I am going to change it so it breaks the Red and then when the Fan stops i’ll know it’s open. Also ordered a RED LED 1/4 inch, to hook across the float so the next time the drain clogs up and the float switch opens when I go out to my garage to check that RED LED Light will be lit. I am going to put that LED right next to the float switch.
Pretty smart. Hard to miss a glowing red light! It really works when you pop your head into a dark attic too. Thank for watching.
So how would you power the red light if the float switch is killing power?
@@froztout it's wired parallel with the switch.
@@joemc111 Would like to see a picture. I just reinstalled the float switch on my air handler and thought that was a good idea but wasn't sure how to make it happen.
Update: My float switch is a 3 wire setup. 2-wires for N.C. and 1 wire for N.O. so should be able to wire a light in series to make it work.
@@froztout you wire the LED in parallel with the flow switch.
Awesome video. Very useful information. Thanks for sharing 👍
Glad it was helpful!
First of all, thank you for the video. I am learning about the air conditioner system to do DIY around the house and came across a difficult one. It looks like float switch on my system attached to the R circuit, which took out power to the entire system (thermostat, furnace, and condenser unit). I cleaned the drain pan, but the float switch was not reset. I still don't have power and the thermostat is blank. I would appreciate it if you could tell me how to reset the float switch and restore power to the system.
Note: I am referring to the AG1100 float switch.
Float switch should reset if you got the water out, or at least got enough out. Maybe some trash got it stuck open. Try to push the pull knob down if it is up? Maybe the switch went bad? Not sure from where I am sitting but you could undo the float switch wiring and do a continuity test to ensure it is closed. You might have another issue.
Whos stomach at 3:50😂
Definitely not mine!
John, great video! I just had new furnace an a/c unit installed and want to add the second cutoff switch as you did on the pan since the contractor installed one just on the condensation pipe. One question - I'm using the same switch you did on the bottom pan. It has 3 wires. I understand how you connected 2 of the wires, but what do you do with the 3rd? Is it needed in this type of installation with this being the 2nd overflow switch? Many thanks for your video!
You don't have to use the 3rd wire, which should be labeled as a Normally Open if using that Aqua Guard. It is so you can wire in some type of alert so that it triggers you to know the float switch tripped. When the float switch opens the switch to break 24v power, it would close the switch to give the alarm at the same time. I only use the Normally Closed portion and keep it simple. You can just put a wire nut on it or one of the crimp on style if you have it just so the wire doesn't possibly touch anything and blow the fuse.
@@johnjennings-JJ Fantastic! Thanks so much for your quick response
being that we’re killing power to the low voltage side I’m assuming one side of the switch to power and the other side to common? Great video
Not to common. The way i do it is hot side of 24v into one side of switch and then to the red wire(s) going to the thermostat/outdoor unit. Never hot side in and out to common...get a blown fuse or transformer that way!
@@johnjennings-JJ i realized this after i made the comment, thanks!
No worries. I have seen a lot of guys who wired it that way when they start out.
If you break power to the red thermostat power you rely on the float switch while in heating mode.
True. But if you have a furnace for heat a lot of them use the roll out switches in the 'R' circuit all the time too. Heat and cool modes. I like breaking 'R' because it is a definite "you know something is wrong" way. Thanks for the comment.
Haaaahaaaa 😅👍
Thanks for sharing
You bet! Thanks for looking.
3:23 don’t zoom in 😂
Please get that wire out of the drain pan lol
...but wires live drain pans!