@hannahmorrisbouldering very much enjoyed the content. Terrific tips included. I'm working on fear of heights myself which is why that statement stood out so much. Keep the great videos coming! You're a blessing to the community.
Tip three goes right to one of my biggest skill gaps. I am terrible at reading routes and remembering sequences. I’ve thought about trying to address it, but never really knew where to start. I’ll try to completely memorize a problem and see how that goes. Of course, I can’t remember where I parked my car or left my glasses, but…😊 Thanks for another great video!
You’re very welcome! I didn’t realise until this drill with Mat that remembering and then planning to enact that memorisation on a route isn’t one of my strongest suits! Definitely something I’ll be taking forward into my sessions…when I remember! 🥹
When it comes to the fear factor I have created this proses for myself: 1. Why am I scared? Is it rational or not? if so what can be done to lessen the danger? Do I maybe need to gain more crimp strength first or more experience in this movement? Its fair not to do it then. 2. climb to the hold I'm going for a different way and see how it feels. When possible climb the move backwards. (sometimes this can lead back to step 1) 3. Start doing the move without fully committing, like just slapping the wall, then next time touching the hold. It can also be weighing the sketchy foot step by step, first using a jug from a different climb. 4. is usually where I do the move and find it's not that scary anymore.
Awesome tips! Especially going to practice the 3 points of contact tomorrow on the same boulders. Thanks for the purple beta as well. Was hoping for more betas on the purples in the video but I should probably figure out some of them by myself 😉
Hoping to get to the Depot soon for a proper session on the purples! They look fun this time around. Hope you find the tips useful in your next session ☺️
This is my comment of appreciation for the color grading on the videos of this channel, a bit desaturated, which is so much aesthetically pleasing than the bright saturated colours a gym usually has. Makes seeing the shape of the holds much easier. Love it ❤
I recently injured my shoulder slightly not even during climbing, but doing a pullup afterwards 😅Resistance band shoulder shrugs are exactly what I did to help rehabilitate it.
Also interesting last part ! I was already doing shoulder shrugs, but I just understood my form wasn't the best. If you have some advices on how using effectively your abs, I feel like it's not natural for me! I never really was much of a sport person before ahah
Well, I tore my ACL and meniscus from a "clean" fall in an indoor bouldering gym, which for me led to no climbing for over a year as I had a hard recovery process. Serious injuries from falls that actually don't seem so bad happen all the time. Nowadays, I will walk away more often than not if a top feels unsafe. Nothing is worth going through this injury again. Sure, its not black and white, I get that. But most of us are not professional athletes and are doing this sport for fun and let me tell you, a serious injury is not fun at all. In general, I just wish there would be more understanding that the risks we are taking are actually real and not just hypothetical.
Sorry to hear about your ACL, that sounds horrible! Absolutely, bad falls can happen indoors, and in seemingly safe circumstances and they can be huge set backs. Climbers should assess the personal risk and be aware of their limitations for sure, hope you’re on the road to recovery and your injury doesn’t give you any residual issue!
What got me into climbing is top roping. I could try practically any move and if I missed or slipped off I hang there in mid air. It LOOKS scarier because of how high you can go. But theres way less consequence for failing a move. I like bouldering too now but just last week I had a bad fall and landed on my lower back awkwardly from like 12ft up. I thought for a moment there id broken something! If i could have done that same boulder as a top rope id have just hung there. Maybe swung a bit and scraped my knee on the wall a tad at worst.
Not sure I agree with Tip 2 - most important thing when climbing in my opinion is being safe and committing to moves only when you feel comfortable doing so. I've seen people fall half a meter of the wall and have dislocations/breaks. Agree with the sentiment around pushing boundaries though, but important to be feel safe when doing so.
Agreed. Every now and then I see an ambulance in front of the gym and I have friends who had fractures and dislocations from falling on the mattress, while bouldering indoors. As someone who climbs as a hobby, to me, no boulder is worth a serious injury. If I'm not confident I can do a move safely, I don't do it.
I also agree that you could only do moves when you've accurately assessed the risk - no need to put yourself in danger recklessly. I think Anna's point was getting to how you can properly assess the risk and figure out when hesitance is holding you back. Of course, accidents can and do happen, but confidence to try when you've rationalised the chance of injury is an important part of trying hard and pushing your boundaries.
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I don't think it's about recklessly endangering yourself, or even properly assessing the risk. When training at the gym the priority should arguably be avoiding injury most of the time and there is objective risk in indoor bouldering. Yes, avoiding hesitancy and being able to push yourself are critical to climbing progression but the possibility of injury from a fall while bouldering shouldn't be underestimated because it's where most injuries happen at indoor gyms.
@@TheMisterKoala her exact words at 7:20 were: "I don't want to do this move in this position because I'm scared of what might happen. Yes, outside it's a little different, obviously, because sometimes what might happen can actually be quite bad. But in an indoor situation, what's really gonna happen if you fall off there? You know? Your feet are below you. It's going to be a safe clean fall. Nothing's really going to happen." To me, that's downplaying the risks. For her, that might be true, because she's in great shape and knows how to fall. But for the average climbing gym goer, there's a real risk of injury. I don't think telling them (us) that nothing can happen is a good idea.
Iv been climbing about 2 months now. Your videos have helped me with technique a lot already. Great content. Would love to climb with you some time too.
I call bs on the "what could happen?". I've seen so many ambulances being called in because of accidents in the bouldering gym. Sometimes fear is good and it keeps you safe.
I agree fear can be a good thing, Anna also says that herself in the video if I remember correctly. What Anna is suggesting is that fear in some situations can hold us back and you can build confidence in your own climbing such that you can make more accurate risk assessment on moves that feel scary, but aren't likely to be dangerous. Of course, accidents and injuries can and do happen, but to try and avoid any risk entirely isn't helpful, and can hinder progression.
The fear thing is a self fulfilling prophecy. If you're scared to commit to the move you're gonna do it halfway and fall off, which leads to you being _more_ afraid to commit. And commitment is sometimes the only way to finish moves like that
At 18:26 you said it would be interesting to compare the times from first to last attempt, but you didn't. I checked and it was 35s on the first, and 25s on the last. Almost 30% less time.
Out of curiosity, do you happen to know both of their backgrounds before climbing? I know having a foundation in another sport can often times be quite helpful with initial progression.
I don’t but I’d be interested to know too! Agreed, I often see new climbers with a background in another sport progressing quickly. Helps to have a base level of strength and a good degree of body awareness I suppose!
Ahh, I see. Yeah, I've looked on in awe (and slight jealousy) as new climbers come in and take down V4s and 5s. I personally came into climbing with a running background. It was generally beneficial but barely helped in terms of arm, back, and hand strength 😅 thanks for the reply! I appreciate all the great videos!@@hannahmorrisbouldering
i enjoy ur videos but also i’m curious on how my progression is going i have been climbing for 1 year and have made it v10 and have flashed a v10 but it was my style i was just curious if this progression is good or not??
I considered it! The volume isn’t as positive as it looks and building the feet on the shallow crimps didn’t feel like an option for me. I wanted to get my foot into the big hold on the right. Cool boulder! 🤗
I suppose the more proper name would be "How to climb your first V3 faster". It really doesn't require a guy who reached V13 in 3 years to say that pivoting body often helps in climbing.
I'm curious how often people incorporate falling practice in a session. I'm a new climber that's come from a bit of parkour background so I'm used to being aware of my height and judging the risk involved with it. The difference in climbing though is I have a massive padded floor instead of concrete so my risk evaluation isn't quite true when I keep my outdoor instincts. I'm thinking of maybe practicing some bails to get a feel for how high up I can take a fall comfortably. Also getting a feel for the best way to land on the mat. Landing flat backwards isn't quite in my subconscious but maybe it's the best way to land on a crash mat. I've seen someone take a fall high up and come real close to hitting a volume on the way down, so I'm also curious if I can drill into my subconscious quickly pushing away from the wall on a bail
Thank you very much Hannah, I really enjoyed the collab and definitly can take away a lot of usefull stuff to improve my climbing. All the best, Dave!
Glad it was helpful!
I love the statement, "it's not about eliminating fear, but controlling it". And it's so true. Great tip Hannah.
Thank you! Hope you enjoyed the video ☺️
@hannahmorrisbouldering very much enjoyed the content. Terrific tips included. I'm working on fear of heights myself which is why that statement stood out so much. Keep the great videos coming! You're a blessing to the community.
Have the fear, but don't let the fear have you :)
Love that! :) @@ChrisTian-uw9tq
Tip three goes right to one of my biggest skill gaps. I am terrible at reading routes and remembering sequences. I’ve thought about trying to address it, but never really knew where to start. I’ll try to completely memorize a problem and see how that goes. Of course, I can’t remember where I parked my car or left my glasses, but…😊
Thanks for another great video!
You’re very welcome! I didn’t realise until this drill with Mat that remembering and then planning to enact that memorisation on a route isn’t one of my strongest suits! Definitely something I’ll be taking forward into my sessions…when I remember! 🥹
Amazing how these tips literally hit all the things I'm struggling with and working on, def implementing these next sesh!
Hopefully they come in handy - thanks for watching! ☺️
Thank you for making these videos, Hannah :) I'm watching every single one of them and appreciate the love for detail in filming and editing!
Thank you so much! That really means a lot to me. Hopefully you enjoy the next couple coming up, we’re really psyched on the upcoming stories ☺️☺️
Seeing you grow, always push/challenge yourself throughout your entire climbing 'career' is absolutely wonderful!
Thank you! Really appreciated. 🥹
As a newish climber your videos are the most informative on youtube. Keep it up.
That’s really great to hear- I’m glad you find them useful ☺️
Pleasure to meet Matt and Anna, and best of luck for their film tour 🍿- they’re definitely both doing something right, crushers.
What are they feeding them 🥲
When it comes to the fear factor I have created this proses for myself: 1. Why am I scared? Is it rational or not? if so what can be done to lessen the danger? Do I maybe need to gain more crimp strength first or more experience in this movement? Its fair not to do it then. 2. climb to the hold I'm going for a different way and see how it feels. When possible climb the move backwards. (sometimes this can lead back to step 1) 3. Start doing the move without fully committing, like just slapping the wall, then next time touching the hold. It can also be weighing the sketchy foot step by step, first using a jug from a different climb. 4. is usually where I do the move and find it's not that scary anymore.
On the purple problem I can see you using momentum like ROAP suggested. Amazing to see that technique blending in just after hover holds.
Another great video as always! I definitely need to work on route reading and repeating climbs to improve efficiency
Me too it seems! Not something I’ve ever put much time into but seeing the difference it made to the climb was so cool!
I think that 1st tip is so good. I'll try that tomorrow. 3 points hips perpendicular
Hope you find it helpful! ☺️
Awesome tips! Especially going to practice the 3 points of contact tomorrow on the same boulders. Thanks for the purple beta as well. Was hoping for more betas on the purples in the video but I should probably figure out some of them by myself 😉
Hoping to get to the Depot soon for a proper session on the purples! They look fun this time around. Hope you find the tips useful in your next session ☺️
Yes! A Hannah Morris bouldering video. A bad day is about to become bearable.
Hope you enjoy it! :D
This is my comment of appreciation for the color grading on the videos of this channel, a bit desaturated, which is so much aesthetically pleasing than the bright saturated colours a gym usually has. Makes seeing the shape of the holds much easier. Love it ❤
Thanks for that! Really glad you like it. I always tend to gravitate towards a more muted colour profile, so I’m glad you like it too ☺️🥳
Almost 100k, Hannah!!!🎉
Great vid, thanks Hannah!
Thank you!
I recently injured my shoulder slightly not even during climbing, but doing a pullup afterwards 😅Resistance band shoulder shrugs are exactly what I did to help rehabilitate it.
Sorry to hear about your shoulder! Hopefully it’s on the mend 🥳
I just love your channel, so authentic and very informative! Enjoyed every video so far :)
Thank you so much! Appreciate it 🥹
Loving your videos lately as a beginner climber 🎉
Great to hear 🤩
Also interesting last part ! I was already doing shoulder shrugs, but I just understood my form wasn't the best. If you have some advices on how using effectively your abs, I feel like it's not natural for me! I never really was much of a sport person before ahah
Another great video 👍👌👏 Thanks!
Thanks for watching! ☺️
heeeeeeeeeey i think Anna definitely deserves a mention in the description and title too! another cool video, as always!
For sure! Her (awesome) achievements are detailed in the description too. ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering oi my apologies, I must have somehow not clicked "read more" when i thought I did! Thanks for the nice content as always!
@@climbing_thomas no worries! Glad you liked the video 🤩
Well, I tore my ACL and meniscus from a "clean" fall in an indoor bouldering gym, which for me led to no climbing for over a year as I had a hard recovery process. Serious injuries from falls that actually don't seem so bad happen all the time. Nowadays, I will walk away more often than not if a top feels unsafe. Nothing is worth going through this injury again. Sure, its not black and white, I get that. But most of us are not professional athletes and are doing this sport for fun and let me tell you, a serious injury is not fun at all. In general, I just wish there would be more understanding that the risks we are taking are actually real and not just hypothetical.
Sorry to hear about your ACL, that sounds horrible! Absolutely, bad falls can happen indoors, and in seemingly safe circumstances and they can be huge set backs. Climbers should assess the personal risk and be aware of their limitations for sure, hope you’re on the road to recovery and your injury doesn’t give you any residual issue!
What got me into climbing is top roping. I could try practically any move and if I missed or slipped off I hang there in mid air. It LOOKS scarier because of how high you can go.
But theres way less consequence for failing a move. I like bouldering too now but just last week I had a bad fall and landed on my lower back awkwardly from like 12ft up. I thought for a moment there id broken something! If i could have done that same boulder as a top rope id have just hung there.
Maybe swung a bit and scraped my knee on the wall a tad at worst.
Not sure I agree with Tip 2 - most important thing when climbing in my opinion is being safe and committing to moves only when you feel comfortable doing so. I've seen people fall half a meter of the wall and have dislocations/breaks. Agree with the sentiment around pushing boundaries though, but important to be feel safe when doing so.
Agreed. Every now and then I see an ambulance in front of the gym and I have friends who had fractures and dislocations from falling on the mattress, while bouldering indoors. As someone who climbs as a hobby, to me, no boulder is worth a serious injury. If I'm not confident I can do a move safely, I don't do it.
I also agree that you could only do moves when you've accurately assessed the risk - no need to put yourself in danger recklessly. I think Anna's point was getting to how you can properly assess the risk and figure out when hesitance is holding you back. Of course, accidents can and do happen, but confidence to try when you've rationalised the chance of injury is an important part of trying hard and pushing your boundaries.
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I don't think it's about recklessly endangering yourself, or even properly assessing the risk. When training at the gym the priority should arguably be avoiding injury most of the time and there is objective risk in indoor bouldering. Yes, avoiding hesitancy and being able to push yourself are critical to climbing progression but the possibility of injury from a fall while bouldering shouldn't be underestimated because it's where most injuries happen at indoor gyms.
Seemed clear to me that they were suggesting that many people over estimate the risk of injury, and that holds them back.
@@TheMisterKoala her exact words at 7:20 were: "I don't want to do this move in this position because I'm scared of what might happen. Yes, outside it's a little different, obviously, because sometimes what might happen can actually be quite bad. But in an indoor situation, what's really gonna happen if you fall off there? You know? Your feet are below you. It's going to be a safe clean fall. Nothing's really going to happen."
To me, that's downplaying the risks. For her, that might be true, because she's in great shape and knows how to fall. But for the average climbing gym goer, there's a real risk of injury. I don't think telling them (us) that nothing can happen is a good idea.
Iv been climbing about 2 months now. Your videos have helped me with technique a lot already. Great content. Would love to climb with you some time too.
That’s really great to hear! 🤩
I call bs on the "what could happen?". I've seen so many ambulances being called in because of accidents in the bouldering gym. Sometimes fear is good and it keeps you safe.
I agree fear can be a good thing, Anna also says that herself in the video if I remember correctly. What Anna is suggesting is that fear in some situations can hold us back and you can build confidence in your own climbing such that you can make more accurate risk assessment on moves that feel scary, but aren't likely to be dangerous. Of course, accidents and injuries can and do happen, but to try and avoid any risk entirely isn't helpful, and can hinder progression.
No activity is 100% safe.
How many ambulances over how many thousands of sketchy moves?
The fear thing is a self fulfilling prophecy. If you're scared to commit to the move you're gonna do it halfway and fall off, which leads to you being _more_ afraid to commit. And commitment is sometimes the only way to finish moves like that
At 18:26 you said it would be interesting to compare the times from first to last attempt, but you didn't. I checked and it was 35s on the first, and 25s on the last. Almost 30% less time.
Another really helpful and interesting video. Great clear advice from you all. Thanks Hannah
You're so welcome! Thanks for watching ☺️
I’ve been climbing 6 months now and have climbed multiple V7 working 8s but haven’t gotten any yet
Great video once again!
Thanks so much, glad you liked it 🤩
Out of curiosity, do you happen to know both of their backgrounds before climbing? I know having a foundation in another sport can often times be quite helpful with initial progression.
I don’t but I’d be interested to know too! Agreed, I often see new climbers with a background in another sport progressing quickly. Helps to have a base level of strength and a good degree of body awareness I suppose!
Ahh, I see. Yeah, I've looked on in awe (and slight jealousy) as new climbers come in and take down V4s and 5s. I personally came into climbing with a running background. It was generally beneficial but barely helped in terms of arm, back, and hand strength 😅 thanks for the reply! I appreciate all the great videos!@@hannahmorrisbouldering
7:48 having actually broken my ankle falling on an indoor boulder 👀👀👀
Really good advice
Glad it was helpful!
i enjoy ur videos but also i’m curious on how my progression is going i have been climbing for 1 year and have made it v10 and have flashed a v10 but it was my style i was just curious if this progression is good or not??
Nope, not too good!
@@geordiehicks hahah fair enough
Yessss another HMB vid ❤️🤩🤩
😍😍😍
V5 - V7 for the purple one?
Looks like a V2 at max to me or 6c on the French Scale.
6c converts to V5 ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering oh, thanks. Then the grade conversion I found is wrong.
9:30 why don't you just put right foot higher then smear volume???
I considered it! The volume isn’t as positive as it looks and building the feet on the shallow crimps didn’t feel like an option for me. I wanted to get my foot into the big hold on the right. Cool boulder! 🤗
I suppose the more proper name would be "How to climb your first V3 faster". It really doesn't require a guy who reached V13 in 3 years to say that pivoting body often helps in climbing.
I'm curious how often people incorporate falling practice in a session. I'm a new climber that's come from a bit of parkour background so I'm used to being aware of my height and judging the risk involved with it. The difference in climbing though is I have a massive padded floor instead of concrete so my risk evaluation isn't quite true when I keep my outdoor instincts. I'm thinking of maybe practicing some bails to get a feel for how high up I can take a fall comfortably. Also getting a feel for the best way to land on the mat. Landing flat backwards isn't quite in my subconscious but maybe it's the best way to land on a crash mat. I've seen someone take a fall high up and come real close to hitting a volume on the way down, so I'm also curious if I can drill into my subconscious quickly pushing away from the wall on a bail
"Do you commit to the last move ?" yeah... I'm guilty your honor 😂
❤
I hear Matt speak but all I can think about is roger waters?
To get to V15 in 5 years you need freaky 0.1% genetics (plus hard work and consistency of course).
Yeah, theres lots of people training hatd and smart without anything like these results. Genetics are King
And lying about when you started climbing helps
Is that a new HMB tee shirt design? 👀
It's a TCH (our local wall) x HMB crossover that we released in the spring :)
Rule number one in climbing: If you have nice hair your not a good climber