Low RPM is awesome when the torque is there. I used to get a lot of broken exhaust bolts in manifolds and heads. I liked to dimple the bolt so I could get a very centered hole for my drill. A fast die grinder could easily jump around me so I would use my carbide in my low speed Snap-on drill it was very slow and easy to control. This seems like a great tool.
Aaron, thanks for the shout out and I am glad you like it. I actually do like these for aluminum (with aluminum bits) too, but it depends on what you are doing. I actually bought them because I was using some 6 inch long aluminum bits to do some work on a throttle body and intake manifold and they DID NOT like the 20 - 30,000rpm of my other die grinders. LOL Just for reference, the angle version (SLP-3154) has a smaller body like some of your other die grinders - but it is out of stock right now as I'm sure you know. And about thanking me for you having to spend $190............do you know how much $ that I have spent on tooling because of you ???? LOL Have a good one, buddy.
I had a friend that worked at a aircraft plant...a couple times he came home and gifted me with a couple of Dotco and Cleco tools. Put my standard 25000 rpm bit in the Dotco and spun the head off of it and NEVER touched the metal with it. 75 000 rpm too much. Lucky no one was killed!
Good video. I was porting an intake manifold yesterday and decided to try my Milwaukee cordless die grinder at its highest speed to save on my ears and give my compressor a break. It just didn't perform as well on aluminum as the air powered. I can see the slower speed being beneficial with stainless
Thanks for the support! For those interested, we are currently machining a couple parts for this tool and hope to have them back in stock at the end of the month.
Now there's a tool I need to save up for. So many times I wanted a much lower speed air die grinder, but had the feather the valve. I wonder if adjustable speed electric die grinders are still made. Thanks for covering this Aaron!
I loved the intro to this video, very funny! Also, I did watch that aluminum can meltdown video back when it came out, or very soon after. Really cool.
Love your info. Makes sense when you see the big picture. You are a great teacher. Thanks for all your videos. PS I am a hobbiest and use fluxcore and not aluninium but still much technic works for me. Thanks.
That type of die grinder is a new one on me, and looks like it has some merit, thanks for passing it on. On using IPA( isopropyl alcohol ) as an aluminum cutting fluid. Where it really shines is when turning and milling. It disappears too quickly at the high rpm of a die grinder. And I still prefer WD40 or Anchor Lube for tapping. Have started to use Anchor Lube more and more lately. No stink and smoke, and cleans up with hot soapy water. And it's awesome on stainless and titanium. Just wish it was easier to dispense. Need to experiment with it by thinning it with water, and see if it will work in a spray bottle, or maybe a squeeze bottle.
that's right! the concentrated powder lye is even better. i used to use it for chemical deburing of small parts at the shop as well. stuff's got tons of awesome practical uses around the metal shop
Use a ‘File Card Brush’ to clean your bits. If you look, the cut tooth pattern is the same as a round file, just with a steeper angle. The brush is usually made with steel wire or brass wire, but the tips are angled to get under the tooth edge
Somewhat recently, I got a job at a sheet-metal shop that had a couple low speed high torque right angle air grinders. they worked awesome and you could grind nearly all day on three or four ceramic abrasive discs. They used 3 inch roll lock disks. Interesting that they wouldn’t throw any sparks. They were low speed enough where they wouldn’t burn the metal. I would assume this is one of the reasons they lasted so long because the heat stayed quite low and the disc didn’t load up. Those particular grinders had no information at all about who made them or their model number and I couldn’t get the company to tell me where they found them. Today I still have not found a grinder like it. If I find one, I will buy it immediately.
The low RPM / high torque is interesting. About a year ago, I ditched all my pneumatic tools for Makita cordless, and wouldn't go back. The idea that I need a noisy, heavy, 2-3 HP compressor (that also requires maintenance) to power my hand tools via a hose became rather unattractive. For a die grinder, I use the Makita XDG01Z. It has a long neck, and when coupled with a 5Ah battery, it has a lot of moment so its not likely to run off on you. For reference, I'm a subscriber to your website, bought a Primeweld, and TIG button from you for my mobile marine fabrication business and work exclusively with aluminum.
Metabo make a mains powered one that’s seriously impressive. Geared down to a third of the regular ones. It’ll happily turn 60-70mm discs without struggling. The air flow to cool the motor also blows a lot of the chips away from you which is nice in confined spaces. In the uk they’re around £200 but if you hunt around you can probably find deals. Worth every penny.
IPA mostly cools the aluminium chips, preventing them from going into "mushy-sticky" state, and it happens through rapid evaporation of the IPA, so it has to be continously applied. You can mix the IPA with distilled water, which lowers the evaporation rate, and as a bonus, makes it almost impossible to ignite. Good ventilation is a must because IPA vapours in your lungs are really really unpleasant, and obviously not very healthy :)
Some of my hobby cnc buddies use the IPA when cutting aluminum to keep it cool. The quick evaporation does it, plus, like you said, no film or residue or mess. Much harder to pack back into an endmill when it's not hot. I just go faster.
@6061 You can dip your carbide burs in caustic soda, it will remove aluminum without touching tungsten carbide or steel. It also works with files, but beware of plastic handles.
burrs specifically for stainless exist. very similar looking geometry to aluminum burrs. as you said intended to take out bigger slivers to shed heat. very useful when you need them in a bad spot. costly though. just don't mix them up or you're in for a very bad time half the time.
small 1 is going to be great for a wire wheel as wel. Most of those are rated at like 3-4k rpm. If you put them in a normal die grinder you wil be shooting wires.
should be easier to control with low rpm. that is good for precise grinding. I don't have any issues with stainless work hardening under a regular carbide burr at high rpm, but it's hard to keep it where you want it, and if you get into a tight space it tends to skip around and you really have to hold on tight. I have noticed aluminum clogs carbide burrs very easily, so low rpm seems like a great choice...or the burrs with the large flutes you have there. good to know there are lots of options!
Die grinders are decent at a lot of things, and for some things they are all that will work, but they are one of those tools that always make me a touch uneasy. The nightmare scenario is confined spaces like taking down the weld bead on the inside of some small diameter pipe. When it chatters it ricochets all around violently and once that happens I tighten up which makes it worse... They are up there with wire cups on grinders, and palm nailers.
I avoid die grinders as much as possible. This one, however, seems much more useful. The high speed units have a steep learning curve and I have zoinked too many parts when I fail to control it.
Have you tried chalk on your burrs to prevent clogging? And to remove material from your clogged burrs I’ve always used a piece of 2x4. Spin it up(lower speed) and touch wood. Love all your videos!
wow he talks?! when did this happen. What tool do you recommend to get into a tight corner to grind away some reliefs for soft jaws? radius is like .1" 6061
I don't weld aluminum (well) but I do have machines and use ISP now as a cutting fluid on Aluminum. it's been great.. It burns rather clear tho and doesn't evaporate that fast on rags so... ya know... 🧯lol Love that new grinder too, thanks for showing that. Had no idea it was a thing.
Muratic acid will clean those aluminum chips right out…just soak…if you have the time, soak in Purple Power…or nitric acid or sulfuric acid…great for migratory tips with aluminum burn back too
If that is 304 or 316SS, it might have work hardened, prior to the die grinder test, from your weld. It don't take much, and there is quite a bit of discoloration in the weld...great for welds, not great for machining.
Using a highly flammable liquid as a lubricant for grinding seems to be not a really good idea. Apart from the fact, that it has no lubricating properties. It is a solvent. It does the exact opposite.
I hate those things and try to avoid using one on steel or stainless as much as possible. The swarf is devil. Goes everywhere and are like mini needles.
old boss when i worked as welder tell us to use hand files because cheep ass couldn't buy good machines, and he was buying cheapest grinder discs that lasted for like 20sec he fucked me over with pay and gave me 600 a month wage f that
Lots of great tips here, Aaron!
Wait, Mr. 6061 has a name now?
Low RPM is awesome when the torque is there.
I used to get a lot of broken exhaust bolts in manifolds and heads. I liked to dimple the bolt so I could get a very centered hole for my drill. A fast die grinder could easily jump around me so I would use my carbide in my low speed Snap-on drill it was very slow and easy to control.
This seems like a great tool.
Im like you i didn't know anyone made a high torque low rpm one thanks for the video ill be getting one for my stainless work
Aaron, thanks for the shout out and I am glad you like it.
I actually do like these for aluminum (with aluminum bits) too, but it depends on what you are doing. I actually bought them because I was using some 6 inch long aluminum bits to do some work on a throttle body and intake manifold and they DID NOT like the 20 - 30,000rpm of my other die grinders. LOL
Just for reference, the angle version (SLP-3154) has a smaller body like some of your other die grinders - but it is out of stock right now as I'm sure you know.
And about thanking me for you having to spend $190............do you know how much $ that I have spent on tooling because of you ???? LOL
Have a good one, buddy.
I had a friend that worked at a aircraft plant...a couple times he came home and gifted me with a couple of Dotco and Cleco tools. Put my standard 25000 rpm bit in the Dotco and spun the head off of it and NEVER touched the metal with it. 75 000 rpm too much. Lucky no one was killed!
Once you've used a Dotco, it's hard to go back to anything else!
When our firm started working a lot of aluminium, we used tallow on all abrasives and cutters. Worked a treat
Good video. I was porting an intake manifold yesterday and decided to try my Milwaukee cordless die grinder at its highest speed to save on my ears and give my compressor a break. It just didn't perform as well on aluminum as the air powered. I can see the slower speed being beneficial with stainless
Project Farm is drooling over your tool test right now!
Thanks for the support!
For those interested, we are currently machining a couple parts for this tool and hope to have them back in stock at the end of the month.
Been loving the content recently!
Now there's a tool I need to save up for. So many times I wanted a much lower speed air die grinder, but had the feather the valve. I wonder if adjustable speed electric die grinders are still made.
Thanks for covering this Aaron!
They are still made - there are also variable speed cordless ones from Milwaukee, etc.
I loved the intro to this video, very funny! Also, I did watch that aluminum can meltdown video back when it came out, or very soon after. Really cool.
Always love seeing a 6061 post
My Father in Law left me his Ingersoll Rand die grinder. It is a low-speed, high torque it is awesome.
Love your info. Makes sense when you see the big picture. You are a great teacher. Thanks for all your videos. PS I am a hobbiest and use fluxcore and not aluninium but still much technic works for me. Thanks.
Good video! Spot on review of that air grinder! It definitely has a place in the line up of air grinders
That type of die grinder is a new one on me, and looks like it has some merit, thanks for passing it on. On using IPA( isopropyl alcohol ) as an aluminum cutting fluid. Where it really shines is when turning and milling. It disappears too quickly at the high rpm of a die grinder. And I still prefer WD40 or Anchor Lube for tapping. Have started to use Anchor Lube more and more lately. No stink and smoke, and cleans up with hot soapy water. And it's awesome on stainless and titanium. Just wish it was easier to dispense. Need to experiment with it by thinning it with water, and see if it will work in a spray bottle, or maybe a squeeze bottle.
yeah & the tip will dry up like a mustard or ketchup bottle lid. Gets kinda krusty on the Anchor lube.
Good video. You can clean bits with drain cleaner if it's clogged up with aluminum, it will dissolve it.
that's right! the concentrated powder lye is even better. i used to use it for chemical deburing of small parts at the shop as well. stuff's got tons of awesome practical uses around the metal shop
I saw the pop can melting video when I started going through your backlog. 😎
Use a ‘File Card Brush’ to clean your bits. If you look, the cut tooth pattern is the same as a round file, just with a steeper angle. The brush is usually made with steel wire or brass wire, but the tips are angled to get under the tooth edge
Somewhat recently, I got a job at a sheet-metal shop that had a couple low speed high torque right angle air grinders. they worked awesome and you could grind nearly all day on three or four ceramic abrasive discs. They used 3 inch roll lock disks. Interesting that they wouldn’t throw any sparks. They were low speed enough where they wouldn’t burn the metal. I would assume this is one of the reasons they lasted so long because the heat stayed quite low and the disc didn’t load up. Those particular grinders had no information at all about who made them or their model number and I couldn’t get the company to tell me where they found them. Today I still have not found a grinder like it. If I find one, I will buy it immediately.
The low RPM / high torque is interesting. About a year ago, I ditched all my pneumatic tools for Makita cordless, and wouldn't go back. The idea that I need a noisy, heavy, 2-3 HP compressor (that also requires maintenance) to power my hand tools via a hose became rather unattractive. For a die grinder, I use the Makita XDG01Z. It has a long neck, and when coupled with a 5Ah battery, it has a lot of moment so its not likely to run off on you. For reference, I'm a subscriber to your website, bought a Primeweld, and TIG button from you for my mobile marine fabrication business and work exclusively with aluminum.
Metabo make a mains powered one that’s seriously impressive. Geared down to a third of the regular ones. It’ll happily turn 60-70mm discs without struggling. The air flow to cool the motor also blows a lot of the chips away from you which is nice in confined spaces. In the uk they’re around £200 but if you hunt around you can probably find deals. Worth every penny.
IPA mostly cools the aluminium chips, preventing them from going into "mushy-sticky" state, and it happens through rapid evaporation of the IPA, so it has to be continously applied.
You can mix the IPA with distilled water, which lowers the evaporation rate, and as a bonus, makes it almost impossible to ignite.
Good ventilation is a must because IPA vapours in your lungs are really really unpleasant, and obviously not very healthy :)
Some of my hobby cnc buddies use the IPA when cutting aluminum to keep it cool. The quick evaporation does it, plus, like you said, no film or residue or mess. Much harder to pack back into an endmill when it's not hot. I just go faster.
@6061 You can dip your carbide burs in caustic soda, it will remove aluminum without touching tungsten carbide or steel. It also works with files, but beware of plastic handles.
Damn it, do you even know what youve done?!?!?!
You just cost me 190 bucks... now i want one...
I really like using my Milwaukee M12 battery die grinder for burrs because you can turn the speed way down, but this looks like an even better option.
burrs specifically for stainless exist. very similar looking geometry to aluminum burrs. as you said intended to take out bigger slivers to shed heat. very useful when you need them in a bad spot. costly though.
just don't mix them up or you're in for a very bad time half the time.
isopropyl alcohol or ethanol is the recommended fluids to use for aluminum at work. It 100% works for milling as well.
We use low rpm rotary tools for flap peening. Never thought about using them for fab work.
HAHAHA! Now that's some torque right there! Education and humor, a great combination. 👍
small 1 is going to be great for a wire wheel as wel. Most of those are rated at like 3-4k rpm. If you put them in a normal die grinder you wil be shooting wires.
should be easier to control with low rpm. that is good for precise grinding. I don't have any issues with stainless work hardening under a regular carbide burr at high rpm, but it's hard to keep it where you want it, and if you get into a tight space it tends to skip around and you really have to hold on tight. I have noticed aluminum clogs carbide burrs very easily, so low rpm seems like a great choice...or the burrs with the large flutes you have there. good to know there are lots of options!
Always good content Aaron…Paul in Florida
Aaron, ii'm sure you know about using lye to get the cold welded alu out of the flutes, right?
Die grinders are decent at a lot of things, and for some things they are all that will work, but they are one of those tools that always make me a touch uneasy. The nightmare scenario is confined spaces like taking down the weld bead on the inside of some small diameter pipe. When it chatters it ricochets all around violently and once that happens I tighten up which makes it worse... They are up there with wire cups on grinders, and palm nailers.
I avoid die grinders as much as possible. This one, however, seems much more useful.
The high speed units have a steep learning curve and I have zoinked too many parts when I fail to control it.
Have you tried chalk on your burrs to prevent clogging? And to remove material from your clogged burrs I’ve always used a piece of 2x4. Spin it up(lower speed) and touch wood. Love all your videos!
Cool learned something new today
Great video sir
Learning is occurring...i didn't know about the high torque, low speed die grinders. Any other tools come configured that way that could be useful?
All about using the right tool for the application could definitely be useful tho.
You could set up a plastic bottle to drip drops of alcohol fairly quickly and see if that's a workaround.
We always use spiritus on aluminium
wow he talks?! when did this happen. What tool do you recommend to get into a tight corner to grind away some reliefs for soft jaws? radius is like .1" 6061
Maybe I missed it over the past few videos, but is there a worry of igniting the alcohol while using it as a cutting/grinding fluid?
On ferrous metals, definitely.
I don't weld aluminum (well) but I do have machines and use ISP now as a cutting fluid on Aluminum. it's been great.. It burns rather clear tho and doesn't evaporate that fast on rags so... ya know... 🧯lol Love that new grinder too, thanks for showing that. Had no idea it was a thing.
Soak bits in sodium hydroxide (lye), eats the aluminum, leaves the carbide.
I use my M12 die grinder. Have not went back. Has 3 speed settings
Ty
The alcohol needs to be is a fairly continuous stream, and even then not meant for 15000 rpm.
Muratic acid will clean those aluminum chips right out…just soak…if you have the time, soak in Purple Power…or nitric acid or sulfuric acid…great for migratory tips with aluminum burn back too
yeah I drink Isopropyl Alcohol when welding also, I can confirm it tastes better.
If that is 304 or 316SS, it might have work hardened, prior to the die grinder test, from your weld. It don't take much, and there is quite a bit of discoloration in the weld...great for welds, not great for machining.
I think I am too lightweight for die grinder with this much torque, it would spin me right round. :D
Hope the seller gave you some commission they are now out of stock.
Nope, I just ordered it and shared it with you guys. No affiliation.
I just use a corded DeWalt hand drill when I need low RPM 0-2800
👍
Nice🌟
👍😎👍
Now if we can just get a 5/8" drill that only spins a top speed of 150 rpm.. cordless preferably
Using a highly flammable liquid as a lubricant for grinding seems to be not a really good idea. Apart from the fact, that it has no lubricating properties. It is a solvent. It does the exact opposite.
I hate those things and try to avoid using one on steel or stainless as much as possible. The swarf is devil. Goes everywhere and are like mini needles.
old boss when i worked as welder tell us to use hand files because cheep ass couldn't buy good machines, and he was buying cheapest grinder discs that lasted for like 20sec he fucked me over with pay and gave me 600 a month wage f that