Hammer eye punch and drift, part 2, forging the drift
Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 сер 2017
- This is the second part of a three part video on forging a punch and drift for making a hammer eye. In this portion we will look at the forging of the drift from an old jack hammer bit. then it's on to grinding with a look at different options for cleaning up the rough forgings. Hardening and tempering will be completed in part three.
To provide financial support to my youtube channel visit
www.paypal.me/BlackBearForge
Find my shop on line at:
www.blackbearforge.com
/ blackbearforge
/ black-bear-forge-20986...
It's because of videos like this one that I have watched several times I am able to be a self taught blacksmith and have my own smithy. I just wanted to show my appreciation and gratitude to you for giving your time to all of us. So this is my small way of saying thank you john godbless you and yours.
Wow! Thank you so much for the support
That's a monster of a belt grinder with the contact wheel 😱💪
I have watched this twice now and started my punch. I think I am al set but now to see about hardening
As a beginner ,as green as baby grass I fill you don't empercise on the inportance of a great fitting set of tongs as I an finding tongs are a piece of safety gear.My first pair allow a 4 in bar to fly up into my safety glass that blocked me and no hurting.I knew and you stress of always having glasses on.And yes you do demand safety pratracts.
Just let us new dummies know to stop and first buy or build good sturdy tongs first to fit the job and for all ours work ahead .
As before Sir you're are still my best teacher ever Mr. John S. Thanks You Sir.l
Thanks again John. I always like your videos.
Thanks very much for sharing this video! Exactly the tutorial I was looking for.
You're welcome. I am glad you found it usefull
Thats my next project punch and drift for a small wood ax 2 ,3 pounds with a 3 foot handle Iam using charcoal forge,fogo box blower side blown,old bricks,harbor freight anvil have about 80 bucks invested so far,looking for a better anvil. Started and made my own charcoal,next batch Ill use the pit method,having a ball.Thanks for the tips
These little anvils arean't a bad beginner anvil for the cost 30kg Acciaio anvil: s.vevor.com/bfQaz1
Thank you for the demonstration and discussion.....
Agree. After watching this a few time I finally attempted my first drift from a 1.0” bar of S7. Very intimidating project for me.
Hi I know this video is old now, I have only now started to try some basic black smithing, but was wondering if it’s possible to make a punch that is also a drift further up the shaft?
I know this is an older video but question- I have some scrap pavement breaker bits that are Brunner & Lay “modified 1045” (no idea how it’s modified) - is this too soft for making a punch and drift? What tools are good from 1045? I need to make Hardy tools as well. It’s pretty large diameter, it will need drawn down a bit. Thanks my friend- love the videos.
There is always a trade off. 1045 will be easier to forge and heat treat but may require more frequent cooling in use as well as more frequent grinding. However it is probably more similar to many old tools than the modern alloys are.
Black Bear Forge thank you!
Thanks!
You are welcome and thank you for the contibution
I know that this is an ancient video, and unlikely to get a response.
Sucker rod is retired when it is somewhat fatigued. To what degree can it be rejuvenated? Does it need to be taken to critical and annealed, or folded, does upsetting help recover the strength of the steel? I say this because, in the eighties that's was a lot of sucker rod and drillstem sold cheap in Arkansas and Oklahoma. Some of this was used to build cattle corrals. It was shocking to see those corrals shatter from a rampaging bull. Not at the welds, but in more than one place along the length of the rod.
I now live in Alaska and am once again in an area where new steel is very pricey and scrap steel rather cheep (it cost a lot to ship out to markets.
If Black Bear Forge should have time to answer, I would appreciate your opinion.
Any salvaged steel has the risk or stress that may cause failure down the road. But I haven't had any issues with sucker rod and never known anyone else to have any issues either,
Ha ha, you sound like Darth Vader when you breath using that mask.
so true
The sucker rod you had on the table in part 1 reminded me of a slide hammer, now I'm curious if making different bits for a slide hammer would help when you need a striker and you're alone, your opinion?
I haven't thought about it before, but it could be worth a try
You may have mentioned it,but what size is that sucker rod that you use for the drift? Also, you said this as for a smaller hammer, with that drift what would be the maximum weight of a hammer you would use it on?
The sucker rod was about 7/8" I think these tools would be suitable for 2 - 2 1/2 pound hammers
John, some hammer eye punches have notches ground into them at the business end. And a bit of a point. Pretty much opposite of yours. I wonder why that is? I don't make hammers and thus have no hammer eye punch. Although I did make a punch like yours (slot punch) intended for flat stock such as a bottle opener.
I think the different styles of punches are fairly new attempts to improve on the old style. I have tried some with a slight point and they work OK and I think are well suited for power hammer work. I have never seen one with a notch.
John, what gloves are you using at the belt grinder? Long time fan here, thanks for the video.
They're a Dyneema cut resistant glove.
What size is that material John??
I think it was about 7/8"
@@BlackBearForge Ok thanks John.
will a concrete stake work for a drift or hammer eye punch
Possibly, but I doubt they will hold up as well as tool steel
What microphone are you using in this video?
Its a sony mic that works with Sony cameras only. I haven't used that mic in years
I am saving for an anvil that I can use for life and my main anvil , how many pounds do you suggest , I will be looking for an hey budden ????
I think for moist people anything over 150 pounds is all the anvil you need. Most people want bigger, but thats a different matter.
Allow me to add this: DON"T get hung up on brand names. A huge percentage of the house-brand and even no-name anvils out there were made in the same foundries by the same brand-name makers, but on job-lot contracts. The biggest difference is you'll pay maybe $2-$4/lb. for the no-name or house brand, and up to $8/lb for that Hay Budden in today's market... for an anvil vastly inferior to a brand new cast steel one at comparable price point. Look instead for the basics of the anvil... a good, flat, solidly forge-welded steel face in good condition, overall condition without any notable chips or cracks, sits level, and demonstrates good rebound characteristics. I picked up a nice 150 lb. no-name anvil that required no more than some edge dressing at just over $2/lb. CDN. And frankly, neither the steel nor the hammer care about the name on the anvil. So, unless you have money to burn, keep an open mind!
@@dalekidd420 oh thank you for this , I have often thought why would I buy an older used anvil and bypass the newer modern anvils seems to be counterintuitive , it's really just shape of the hey budden that I admir but ive done quit a bit of research since I've posted this and I'm thinking a South german style most likely an kanca anvil will be the way to go for me and actually I'm thinking 50 lb will be fine and and a good stand , I will acquire an striking anvil for any heavy work I may have in mind , I think for me this is the most efficient and cost effective way to go and am very glad I didn't fall for the hype and get an antique without justifying or even knowing why I would do such a thing if only to have it for prestige or to keep up with the jonses so to speak
It depends on what weight hammers or sledges you swing I recommend 10 time that of which you swing
Remember kids: Always stop an angle grinder on the work.